The Chamonix

From Elgé -

Courtesy of Elgé

This is a revival of the French brand Elgé. The first model to be offered is the Chamonix -

Courtesy of Elgé

The Elgé Camonix will be available for pre-order (I believe) next Tuesday.

Launch Date: December 3, 2024
Special Launch Price: €860 (price after launch: €960)
Shipping: First batch late January/mid-February, second batch late March/mid-April

Here are the pertinents -

• Movement:
  • France Ébauche – FE AUTO*
  • No Date
  • Accuracy ± 12 s/day
  • Made in France
• Case:
  • 316L stainless steel with polished & brushed surfaces
  • Water resistance 15 ATM / 150m
  • 38mm diameter x 11.6mm thickness x 44mm lug-to-lug
  • Screw-down crown & caseback
• Dial & Hands: Super-LumiNova® “Old Radium” on hands & black lacquered dial
• Glass: Sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating
• Straps:
  • Vegetable-tanned leather
  • Removable “bund” leather plate
  • Available in three color options (natural, brown & black)
• Assembly & Regulation: Regulated and assembled in France
• 3-year warranty

We will be reaching out to the folks at Elgé to see if we can get some more details on the watch and the brand as it plans to move forward.

The Quadripod

From Utinam -

Courtesy of Utinam

Nearly four years to the day I first visited Besançon, I was back again.  At that time, Utinam was just about to open their boutique and they had a handful of watches along with pieces from Dodane (I believe) Bell & Ross and some of their magnificent clocks.  At the time, I picked up a 24 hour single hand watch that I quite like and still wear.  Had they had this on offer at the time, I probably would have pulled my credit card and made my purchase.


Like many brands in both France and Germany, Utinam has opted for a Japanese movement.  The shape is beguiling, and the blue dial is very pleasing.  But perhaps my favorite aspect?  The hands!  They are just different enough to engage and fascinate.

Courtesy of Utinam

Here are the pertinents -
(Keep in mind, this is Google Translated from French).

CASE 
Stainless steel form piece, design in 2 parts connected by 4 screws slipped in visible sleeves. Transparent background allowing reading of the oscillating mass. A version exists in titanium nitride Pink Gold. Height: 43mm, Width: 38mm 

GLASS 
Domed sapphire above and below for oscillating weight reading. Particularity of the “ears” at 9:00 and 3:00. 

MOVEMENT 
11½ Japanese mechanical-automatic, 21 jewels, frequency 21,600 vibrations per hour, power reserve: 40 hours. Date at 3 o'clock. 

DIAL 
Enamelled in cartridges; Blue, Ivory, Aventurine. 

HANDS 
Luminescent Hour and Minute, central second counterweight by La Practice à Morteau. 

CROWN
Engraving of the 2-column eagle, emblem of Besançon. 

BRACELET 
Lug Width: 24 mm, barenia calf leather, saddle stitching hand-wrapped by the Comptoir des Selliers in Besançon, stainless steel buckle.

Numbered limited series 
Specific engraving on request.

Love Overdue - A Week with the Lip Himalaya 40 mm Mecanique

Full disclosure, I am a long-term fan of Lip.  I visited the factory in Besançon 4 years ago, and I am somewhat pre-disposed to like what they do.  I recently had the opportunity to wear and review one of their watches and I have to say that I am a reaffirmed fan.

This is the Lip Himalaya 40 mm Mecanique.  It does not have a chronograph, an alarm, is not solar powered, does not make coffee ; )

The Himalaya originally appeared in the Lip collection from 1954 to 1973.  It has made a comeback over the past few years and today is available in a few different versions.

In other words?  It is a watch!  Hours, minutes, seconds and date.  The case is of stainless steel, and measures 40 mm in diameter.  The movement is a mechanical one. 

Now it bears mentioning that this is a Miyota movement.  The interesting part of this movement's winding action is that it does not achieve a "full" wind stopping point when winding.  What does that mean, exactly?  Essentially that you can wind and wind, but you will not feel the tension growing, resistance increasing, and finally find yourself unable to wind it further.  Also?  You will never over-wind or break the spring!  Over the past week I have wound 20 - 25 times and call it done, and the power reserve has been great.

ON THE FACE OF IT

It would be simple (and accurate) to say that the Himalaya Mecanique had me at "hello".  The dial is beautiful in its simplicity.  And remember, here at Tempus Fugit simple isn't dumb, it's beautiful.  The dial is laid out with applied numbers (a personal favorite), with minute/second indices in between.

The hands are elegantly, and appropriately long and shapely.  The second hand is tipped red.  These are little details, but for me they really add that certain je ne sais quoi to a wonderful watch.

The date window is another point of joy for me. 

Clear, well-defined and easy to read.  Moreover, what I find more and more is that the date window is an after-thought.  And that is the case with big, small and micro brands.  How often is the number or marker where the date window appears either partially, or fully obscured due to lazy design?  This is a truly satisfying dial to look at.

The strap is a wonderful soft, of brown leather.

The buckle is branded, subtle and a perfect match for the watch as a whole.

And the little details matter -

So let's get down to brass tacks, how much is this all going to cost you?

€399.00

That's just a wee bit under $450 by this morning's conversion rate.

The time keeping was steady, the comfort of the watch was beyond reproach, and the value for money can't really be argued with.  Is it for you?  Well, that is something down to the individual, to be sure.  Me?  I am a bit of a romantic.  I have visited the Lip facility, I have walked the streets of Besançon, seen the Silberstein clock, had (a few) beer/s with the students in the college bars.  This one speaks to me.

The Marinier Automatic

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

39 mm of polished stainless steel, display back, water resistant to 200 meters.  The movement is Miyota's 820A.

The retail?  A very attractive 449 Euro.

 

Wrapping up Seven Days with the Sartory Billard SBO2

Time, tide and well, reviews wait for no blogger, so it is time to wrap this one up.

For the past week I have been wearing, and truly enjoying the Sartory Billard SB02 - Silver Dial version.  The review piece came with Sartory Billard's “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel installed.  I realize as I write this that many of you may not be exactly familiar with Sartory Billard, and in fairness I was not either until I met one of the owners at BaselWorld back in March -

Definitely one of the cooler marketing pieces I saw ; )

Sartory Billard is the creation of Ludovic Sartory & Armand Billard.  Based in France, the constituent components of the SB02 are brought together and assembled in the Franche-Comté, a region that I visited back in November 2015 and home to many historical French watch making legends.  

The SB02 is Sartory Billard's second creation.  Now on the surface the watch is interesting owing to its design which is not the typical round field / diver style that we seem to be getting swamped with lately.  

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The case is not quite tonneau, and not quite round.  You might also be able to notice from the above image that the inner stainless steel bezel is somewhat reminiscent of an ellipse.  Not quite round.  You will also notice that the stainless inner bezel pitches upwards somewhat, providing a really cool look and feel with real depth.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, and 12 mm thick.  And unlike so many brands (both micro and macro) the guys at Sartory Billard opted for a solid case back, which I truly appreciate. 

The fit and feel of the watch quite good.  It is definitely of the Goldilocks school of watch sizes - not too big, not too small, but just right.

 
Now here's the clever part - actually, just one of the clever parts!  You will notice if you look at the watch dial, you will note that the inner portion is actually translucent.  And you can see the full reveal of the date at 3 o'clock.  I have to be honest, I really dig the effect.  My only suggestion would be to have an outline around the date window to make it stand out just a little bit more.  But this is a minor point, and more down to my aging eyes than any true design issue.

Apologies for the shaky camera hand, but as you can see, the lume is good ; )

Under the hood, the movement is the Miyota 8215 self-winding (automatic) movement.   For those of you so inclined, here is a link to the pertinents, courtesy of Miyota  - 

Miyota 8215

The time keeping was first rate, no major deviations (fast or slow) to mention.  And I have to say something - THANK YOU Sartory Billard for picking a movement that can be serviced pretty much ANYWHERE!  More importantly, it's worth noting how many brands - even the big dogs - are starting to use Miyota instead of ETA or Sellita.  Hours, minutes, seconds and the aforementioned date.  All functioned perfectly.

The little things that you don't find on most micro-brands are here -

 
A signed crown.  The crown itself was very tactile and precise.  Setting the time was smooth and easy.

A signed buckle.  Smooth and appropriately sturdy for the watch and strap.

And a signed strap.  But there is more to this.  Because a big part of the Sartory Billard design is to offer the watch owner the opportunity to have ONE watch that can have several different looks without the use of tools and a professional watch customizer.

Sartory Billard use quick change straps that do not require a special spring bar tool or a pocket knife.  I started the review wearing this combination -

 
The strap is the grey version (grey sued top, leather underneath).  The strap width is 18 mm at the connection point but you will notice that the strap widens out to fit flush underneath the lugs.  It is a great looking combination, and I got plenty of questions about it.

 
You will also notice the four screw heads at the corners of the outer bezel.  This is far more than an aesthetic touch.  Because every SB02 ships with a tool to remove the screws -

allowing the customer the opportunity to purchase additional outer bezels for the princely sum of...

25 € each!  

 And suffice it to say, if yours truly can easily get this thing off -

And get the other bezel on...

 with minimal fuss and no cursing?  Then ANYONE can!

 From a sunny weekend look...

To the perfect watch to wear to the office.  One important thing to bear in mind when removing and changing bezels - the bezel does NOT require excessive force or torque to secure.  When the screw stops turning with normal force?  You've gone far enough ; )

And I think, if I am honest, Sartory Billard has come up with something that several other brands have tried, but (in truth) failed to deliver on.  A modular watch that can easily be changed and modified by the customer with one tool.  How many watch brands give this much consideration to a customer?  Every watch guy and gal wants to have options.  We speak all too often about our collections.  So often, that I think it is clear that many of us have lost touch with the idea of that one special watch.  The one that we treasure and look forward to wearing every day.  And how many brands are thinking about that customer that perhaps either has limited funds, or is truly conscientious about not spending their kid's college funds in the pursuit of a new watch?  This is an amazing idea, thoughtfully designed, well manufactured and very well-priced at 542 Euros.  

Want an extra one of the "standard" bezels so you can, in effect, double your watch?  You have five to choose from -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

and it will set you back 25 Euros.  Want one of the really nice engraved limited edition ones?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

These are hand engraved, and limited.  And in fairness they are more expensive at 125 Euros each.

Three different colors of leather straps are available and again, very affordably priced at 25 Euros.  

All too often I am confounded by a certain well-known watch media outlet that drones on and on about the "value proposition" when speaking about watches that typically cost more than $1,500.  No offense to these folks, but I find that concept a tough one to swallow.  Mechanical watches, by their very nature, should certainly cost something.  But when I think about a watch with real value in terms of its pricing, I have a hard time equating the word value with something that represents a full pre-tax pay check for many people.  A good watch that you enjoy wearing should not be such a financial hit that you might be choosing between taking your family on a vacation or buying yourself the watch.  And that is why I am so enthusiastic about the Sartory Billard SB02.

Is this for everyone?  Probably not.  The case us unusual, and some people are not necessarily ready to break away from herd mentality and try something new without a big group's name on it.  But for the right person (and having worn it this past week, I can say that I am one of them), the Sartory Billard SB02 offers a great watch with potentially limitless possibilities.  

Here are the pertinents regarding the watch as reviewed:

Sartory Billard SB02 silver dial & “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel

SARTORY BILLARD SB 02
ref. SB02.D.ST.04
Case: 
Stainless steel 316 L mirror polished and brushed on the sides.
“Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel.  39 mm in diameter, 12 mm thick.
Case back: 
Stainless steel, screw down, engraved
Water resistant: 
100m
Crystal: 
Sapphire, anti-reflective treatment with blue shade
Movement:
Automatic Movement Miyota 8215
Hands:
Hour and minute are rhodium with facets and applied Luminova. Rhodium second hand.
Dial: 
Sunray brushed and indexes applied with Luminova.
Crown: 
Stainless steel with logo

Strap:
Suede and genuine leather 

2 years warranty

Seven Days with the Sartory Billard SB02 Silver Dial

Begins now.