Heroes and Villains - The Reinvention/Comeback of the Year: Sartory Billard

So before we go too far, a quick and honest disclosure - I did work with Sartory Billard in a consulting role from 2018 to 2019.

I first met Armand Billard at BaselWorld 2018. 

A very thin, tall guy stalking the halls wearing a sport coat somewhat subtly informing any passersby that he could inform them about (we assumed) some watch brand called Sartory Billard. I later spent some time with him during the second Wine & Time event, and later at the Hyperion (then still the Ramada).  We got to talking, and a few weeks later I did a review of the SB2:

http://www.tempusfugit.watch/2018/04/wrapping-up-seven-days-with-sartory.html

And following that, a month or so later I began consulting on a part time basis. I thought - and still think - that the SB2 is a wonderfully creative watch that offers a huge bang for not too many bucks. 

As BaselWorld 2019 approached, Armand let me know that he and his partner Ludovic Sartory would be unveiling a new collection, the SB3 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

And a funny thing happened - there was a lot of buzz, a lot of journalists stopped by, everything was looking good and...

For whatever reason, Armand thought there was another level to go. And not unlike what Miles Davis, John Coltrane and other giants of Jazz referred to as "woodshedding" things went a bit dark and silent for a time. But what most everyone (including me) did not realize was that Armand had gone into a creative cocoon, and was quietly working on what the next iteration of Sartory Billard was going to be.

And now Im  going to touch on that all important rule that every brand I have worked with must accept - Henki is ALWAYS RIGHT!  Well, apparently not always! My feelings, along with lots of unsolicited advice from other folks was to stick with the SB2 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

For me this was simple - the SB02 was an easy seller, people knew it, it was safe and solid. And here is why Armand Billard is the owner of one of the hottest small, and growing micro brands in the world, and I am sitting in Salem, MA writing about it - he listened to all the feedback, took all opinions into account, and followed his gut. And let's just say that Armand Billard's gut clearly has a PhD from The Sorbonne.

Because what came next was a sucker punch that the watch world wasn't expecting -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

But that is the thing about serendipity - you can't plan for it, and you often don't see it coming! A once small cottage business has rapidly grown into one of the most in-demand touch points for watch fans, and has caused some of the most well known (and well-heeled) collectors clubs to reach out and initiate exclusive, members-only pieces. Remember how Henki always says that doing special, limited series watches for collectors clubs is a bad idea? Well, apparently not so much. Sartory Billard are perhaps one of the few examples of this typically bad idea not only working, but triumphing.

Oh, and another thing - Armand decided that he wasn't happy not having as much control of the process as possible, so he figured why not learn to make specific components for his watches, you know, like the hands and dial inserts? Remember how Henki always said that there are specialists for a reason, and don't get distracted wearing too many hats? Well, it seems that in this case, not so much.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

In fairly short order, Armand went on to master the design and production of these parts, taking every opportunity to learn from anyone who would teach him something. And while you might be thinking  that the results would be the ham-fisted rejects of a first year watch making student, well once again you'd be wrong.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

My friend Rod Hess and I have talked at length about the amazing output of Sartory Billard in this past year. It has been the perfect example of taking everything you know and understand to be fact, and while taking it into consideration, going ahead with what you think is right.  And the results speak for themselves.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Now contrary to what some of my "fans" in Germany might have you believe, I actually LOVE being proven wrong! And if you were to take 100 micro brands who took the same approach, 97 of them would right now be "exploring new professional opportunities". 

But as I've said before - Sartory Billard is a bit special.

So well done Sartory Billard and Armand - and thank you for proving what is possible when you trust your vision.

What Moves Me - Evolution, Not Revolution

Or the curious case of Sartory Billard.

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

What I have probably enjoyed the most about my ten years doing Tempus Fugit is watching the evolution of some of the brands I've gotten to know.  And perhaps one of the most fascinating journeys has been charted by Sartory Billard.

I met Armand Billard at BaselWorld in 2018.  At the time Sartory Billard was on their second iteration, the SB2 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

This was perhaps the watch that initially put them on the radar for most of us in the watch media game.  It was a charming and fun concept, you could remove the outer bezel via the four large hex screws and replace it with any number of options.  And they took it a step further making the measurements and specs an open source item, and a whole sub culture of "do-it-yourselfers" emerged creating a wild array of different options to make the SB02 one of the most personalized watches out there.  It was affordable, priced at a little better than 600 Euros.  A Miyota mechanical movement kept the time, and straps came with quick change spring bars to further ease customization.  Sales were pretty strong, particularly in France and Belgium.  But for whatever reason, it still remained a well-kept secret in other countries 

BaselWorld 2019 came and Sartory Billard participated at The HYPE with a new collection, the SB03 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

And this is where things took an interesting turn (at least in my opinion). A lot of customers had stated that they wanted a higher-end, more customizable watch. And the guys at SB made a new collection to try and meet that request.  A lot of people came to see the watches, and spoke with the owners Armand Billard and Ludovic Sartory, and... well, let's just say the needle didn't move, not an inch.

And then...

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Well, not unlike when Smith met Wesson, or the guy at the bakery said - "What if we slice the bread before we sell it?" The SB4 was brought to life.  Now this was not a zero to sixty acceleration, but what started out as a steady "drip, drip, drip" intensified to a steady flow, to now reach a point where they are now having a tough time keeping up with their orders, and that is in the middle of two of the biggest crises to hit this rock in the last hundred years - health and financial.  And now, the floodgates have opened, and Sartory Billard has become (according to those just discovering them) an overnight success.  Well, I think they were always successful, but the world just hadn't caught on yet.  So maybe they are an overnight success, one several years in the making ; ) 

But the evolution was not just in the watches, but in the amount of (and I'm going to use the "A Word" here) artisanal work that now goes into the SB4.  Armand had always been a designer, but wasn't a guy who made watch hands and displays. Well, he is now!

For many brands, they make their bones coming straight out of the gate.  Others start strong then lose their way.  What has been particularly satisfying about watching the arc of Sartory Billard is to see the progression:

From my personal favorite - the SB01

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

To the SB02 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

To the ill-fated SB03 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

To the new darling of independent watch brand lovers, the SB04 -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The willingness to experiment and try new things, to keep searching, poking and prodding, pushing the envelope.  Continually evolving.  

After all, life moves forward, doesn't it?


Viva la Evolution!

Too Small To Fail - Sartory Billard

IMPORTANT NOTE:  In the interest of full disclosure, I consulted with Sartory Billard for about a year.  I am no longer working with them on a professional basis, so I feel that I can fairly and honestly speak about them now.

I first met the Billard half of the Sartory Billard team a little over two years ago at BaselWorld.

At the time, they were on their second iteration of offerings, the SB02 (reviewed here - http://www.tempusfugit.watch/2018/04/wrapping-up-seven-days-with-sartory.html)

It was built on a pretty basic premise - a quality watch at a fair price, with a twist.  The twist being that you (yes you, watch owner) could easily remove and install a different bezel pretty much at will thanks to the four bolts at the four bezel corners as well as the special tool included with the watch itself. 

And this really marked the start of Sartory Billard's presence to the larger watch world.  

Building on that success, they launched their latest collection, the SBO4.  And it is from this point that Sartory Billard left the world of quirky and affordable, and entered the realm of awareness in the larger, heavier hitting press and collectors.  

The ones that caught my eye feature a dial crafted of titanium, polished to perfection.  An assortment of colors including blue, purple and burgundy -

And if you're after something even more exotic?  How about meteorite?

The simple truth is that as a small brand, Sartory Billard has the flexibility to offer something a bit beyond the ordinary, at a fair price, and do so without five layers of management tripping over each other to make it happen.  

Most large brands are about as nimble as a Greyhound bus.  Smaller brands like Sartory Billard are as nimble as the actual greyhound itself.  Smaller?  Yes.  Potentially stronger?  Absolutely.

And unlike those private brands funded by offshore money, Sartory Billard is made up of the two founders, working to produce something unique.  They will not get a cash injection from a Saudi Prince, or a large group like Richemont.  For brands like this it's up to them to make it happen.

That's gutsy, but also admirable.

Sartory Billard - Too Small To Fail.

Wrapping up Seven Days with the Sartory Billard SBO2

Time, tide and well, reviews wait for no blogger, so it is time to wrap this one up.

For the past week I have been wearing, and truly enjoying the Sartory Billard SB02 - Silver Dial version.  The review piece came with Sartory Billard's “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel installed.  I realize as I write this that many of you may not be exactly familiar with Sartory Billard, and in fairness I was not either until I met one of the owners at BaselWorld back in March -

Definitely one of the cooler marketing pieces I saw ; )

Sartory Billard is the creation of Ludovic Sartory & Armand Billard.  Based in France, the constituent components of the SB02 are brought together and assembled in the Franche-Comté, a region that I visited back in November 2015 and home to many historical French watch making legends.  

The SB02 is Sartory Billard's second creation.  Now on the surface the watch is interesting owing to its design which is not the typical round field / diver style that we seem to be getting swamped with lately.  

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

The case is not quite tonneau, and not quite round.  You might also be able to notice from the above image that the inner stainless steel bezel is somewhat reminiscent of an ellipse.  Not quite round.  You will also notice that the stainless inner bezel pitches upwards somewhat, providing a really cool look and feel with real depth.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, and 12 mm thick.  And unlike so many brands (both micro and macro) the guys at Sartory Billard opted for a solid case back, which I truly appreciate. 

The fit and feel of the watch quite good.  It is definitely of the Goldilocks school of watch sizes - not too big, not too small, but just right.

 
Now here's the clever part - actually, just one of the clever parts!  You will notice if you look at the watch dial, you will note that the inner portion is actually translucent.  And you can see the full reveal of the date at 3 o'clock.  I have to be honest, I really dig the effect.  My only suggestion would be to have an outline around the date window to make it stand out just a little bit more.  But this is a minor point, and more down to my aging eyes than any true design issue.

Apologies for the shaky camera hand, but as you can see, the lume is good ; )

Under the hood, the movement is the Miyota 8215 self-winding (automatic) movement.   For those of you so inclined, here is a link to the pertinents, courtesy of Miyota  - 

Miyota 8215

The time keeping was first rate, no major deviations (fast or slow) to mention.  And I have to say something - THANK YOU Sartory Billard for picking a movement that can be serviced pretty much ANYWHERE!  More importantly, it's worth noting how many brands - even the big dogs - are starting to use Miyota instead of ETA or Sellita.  Hours, minutes, seconds and the aforementioned date.  All functioned perfectly.

The little things that you don't find on most micro-brands are here -

 
A signed crown.  The crown itself was very tactile and precise.  Setting the time was smooth and easy.

A signed buckle.  Smooth and appropriately sturdy for the watch and strap.

And a signed strap.  But there is more to this.  Because a big part of the Sartory Billard design is to offer the watch owner the opportunity to have ONE watch that can have several different looks without the use of tools and a professional watch customizer.

Sartory Billard use quick change straps that do not require a special spring bar tool or a pocket knife.  I started the review wearing this combination -

 
The strap is the grey version (grey sued top, leather underneath).  The strap width is 18 mm at the connection point but you will notice that the strap widens out to fit flush underneath the lugs.  It is a great looking combination, and I got plenty of questions about it.

 
You will also notice the four screw heads at the corners of the outer bezel.  This is far more than an aesthetic touch.  Because every SB02 ships with a tool to remove the screws -

allowing the customer the opportunity to purchase additional outer bezels for the princely sum of...

25 € each!  

 And suffice it to say, if yours truly can easily get this thing off -

And get the other bezel on...

 with minimal fuss and no cursing?  Then ANYONE can!

 From a sunny weekend look...

To the perfect watch to wear to the office.  One important thing to bear in mind when removing and changing bezels - the bezel does NOT require excessive force or torque to secure.  When the screw stops turning with normal force?  You've gone far enough ; )

And I think, if I am honest, Sartory Billard has come up with something that several other brands have tried, but (in truth) failed to deliver on.  A modular watch that can easily be changed and modified by the customer with one tool.  How many watch brands give this much consideration to a customer?  Every watch guy and gal wants to have options.  We speak all too often about our collections.  So often, that I think it is clear that many of us have lost touch with the idea of that one special watch.  The one that we treasure and look forward to wearing every day.  And how many brands are thinking about that customer that perhaps either has limited funds, or is truly conscientious about not spending their kid's college funds in the pursuit of a new watch?  This is an amazing idea, thoughtfully designed, well manufactured and very well-priced at 542 Euros.  

Want an extra one of the "standard" bezels so you can, in effect, double your watch?  You have five to choose from -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

and it will set you back 25 Euros.  Want one of the really nice engraved limited edition ones?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

These are hand engraved, and limited.  And in fairness they are more expensive at 125 Euros each.

Three different colors of leather straps are available and again, very affordably priced at 25 Euros.  

All too often I am confounded by a certain well-known watch media outlet that drones on and on about the "value proposition" when speaking about watches that typically cost more than $1,500.  No offense to these folks, but I find that concept a tough one to swallow.  Mechanical watches, by their very nature, should certainly cost something.  But when I think about a watch with real value in terms of its pricing, I have a hard time equating the word value with something that represents a full pre-tax pay check for many people.  A good watch that you enjoy wearing should not be such a financial hit that you might be choosing between taking your family on a vacation or buying yourself the watch.  And that is why I am so enthusiastic about the Sartory Billard SB02.

Is this for everyone?  Probably not.  The case us unusual, and some people are not necessarily ready to break away from herd mentality and try something new without a big group's name on it.  But for the right person (and having worn it this past week, I can say that I am one of them), the Sartory Billard SB02 offers a great watch with potentially limitless possibilities.  

Here are the pertinents regarding the watch as reviewed:

Sartory Billard SB02 silver dial & “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel

SARTORY BILLARD SB 02
ref. SB02.D.ST.04
Case: 
Stainless steel 316 L mirror polished and brushed on the sides.
“Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel.  39 mm in diameter, 12 mm thick.
Case back: 
Stainless steel, screw down, engraved
Water resistant: 
100m
Crystal: 
Sapphire, anti-reflective treatment with blue shade
Movement:
Automatic Movement Miyota 8215
Hands:
Hour and minute are rhodium with facets and applied Luminova. Rhodium second hand.
Dial: 
Sunray brushed and indexes applied with Luminova.
Crown: 
Stainless steel with logo

Strap:
Suede and genuine leather 

2 years warranty