Showing posts with label bezel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bezel. Show all posts

Thursday, June 22, 2017

Getting Personal - A Bespoke Watch From REVOLO

Courtesy of Google:
 
be·spoke
bəˈspōk/
  1. 1.
    past of bespeak.
adjective
British
adjective: bespoke
1.
(of goods, especially clothing) made to order.

"a bespoke suit"


I think it is safe to say that we have all had those moments where we wished we could change certain aspects of a favorite watch.  Back in the early part of the century (yes, 17 long years ago) there was a bit of a cottage industry that sprung up where you could get your watch modified.  Anything from hands to custom designed dials.  And that was okay.  You could even, for a price, reach out to the great and the good and maybe get a slight modification to one of their watches.

So when I heard about REVOLO I was both intrigued, and if I am completely honest, a wee-bit skeptical.  As mentioned, others have tried but really failed to deliver on a truly bespoke watch for the watch enthusiast of more modest means.


Spoiler alert - I am now a believer!

I ordered a REVOLO using the brand's online configurator feature and it arrived quite promptly, directly from Amsterdam where it had been assembled, just for yours truly.

Essentially, you go online, you make your choices, pay for the watch, and then the folks in the REVOLO workshop work to assemble your watch for you.

I opted for a 43 mm cushion style case, with a rose gold pvd finish.

Courtesy of REVOLO
  
I added a unidirectional bezel (also rose gold pvd), and a rose gold pvd crown -

 
I selected the blue "sandwich" dial, and a black vintage style leather strap -


secured with a gold pvd buckle.

Courtesy of REVOLO

The movement I selected was the Miyota 821A -

Courtesy of REVOLO

Put it all together -


So, before we get into the review itself, let me explain some of the design decisions.

Way back in 1968, my father was given a gold filled Mido Ocean Star the day before I made my debut in Zanesville, Ohio.


 Yes, the photos are terrible!


Regular readers will know that the Mido my father received and passed on to me is now with my niece.  

So I wanted something with a gold look, ideally without the gold price ; )

The Mido while sentimentally important was a wee-bit too small for my wrist, and as we do not have kids, it needed to go to the "next eligible" family member.

The second design cue came from a brief piece I read in  
The Rake, which was doing a quick take on the actor Michael Nouri.  It listed some of his sartorial trappings and included what was reputed to be a Breguet chronograph in gold -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb
Now some other things that influenced the decision - I am not (nor do I anticipate ever being) a diver.  I do,  however, like to use a rotating bezel for time countdowns.  I also am a sucker for blue dials and wanted a watch face that looked slightly more formal than plain old indices and dots.  So something semi-sporty, but not a sport watch, and in a gold finish, but not gold (remember pals and gals, I'm a humble English teacher).


I think most of all, I wanted something special, that I would always enjoy wearing.

So to finish it off, there were two additional flourishes:


Like the original Mido, I added a similar inscription.  This watch is for me after all, nobody else!

And as it happens, it was possible to add a customization to the watch box itself, so in for a penny, in for a pound -


Okay, so that's the background.  But let's get down to the proverbial brass tacks:

This is an INCREDIBLY comfortable watch!



Although the case measures 43 mm in diameter, owing to its cushion design it actually curves quite nicely where the lugs curve into the case.  As you can see, it occupies the space but clearly does not overwhelm my wrist.

More importantly, the watch sits flat on my wrist, no slipping or sliding.  And at that point I would like to sing the praises of the strap.  Unbelievably comfortable.  Described as leather, the top of the strap has a nice suede or nubuck feel to it.  All too often, a thick leather strap will not get softer, but rather stiffer (and crispier), not necessarily conducive to a comfortable wearing experience.  Not so with the REVOLO strap.  Soft, comfortable and really nice looking.

The crown is ideally sized, and does not screw down.  Again, given that I am not diving (or swimming) with it, this is ideal for me.  The crown itself is tactile without being "edgy" and the setting and winding motion are unbelievably smooth.  

The timekeeping is (sorry Rolex) superlative!  The folks at Miyota make an unbelievably accurate and robust movement.  More and more brands are making the move to them (even some smaller micro Swiss brands), because to them the cost benefit ratio that the Miyota offers far outweighs the expense and potential fussiness of a Swiss movement which would add a fair bit to the sticker price.  I have been within 26 seconds or so over the entire time period so far.

And the lume was not too bad either -


So all in all, I would highly recommend the REVOLO experience to anyone.  And the best part is that owing to the choice in movements, dials and cases there is not only something for everyone, the price points are downright reasonable.  For right around €500, you get a watch made just for you!  

 
 

Sunday, April 23, 2017

Time's Up - Wrapping up the Aquamariner

Time and tide, or something like that.  The point being it's time to wrap-up the review of he Hager Aquamariner.


As previous readers may recall, I was somewhat taken with the clasp of the Aquamariner.  And not to bang on and on, but I have to share some realities about "telescoping" wet-suit extensions.  A lot of watch brands out there are incorporating them.  And many of them simply do not work.  The clasp incorporated into the Aquamariner is smooth, precise, and secure.  And as the aforementioned spill on the deck attests - pretty damn strong.

But, a watch is more than just the bracelet that holds it to your wrist.



The watch face is clear and well laid out.  and yes, that is a wee small bit of lint I did not get off the crystal - but this is real life, not a posh photo studio ; )  

The date is visible in in everyday life and the red second hand is easy to follow against the black dial. 

And unlike a lot of divers, the lume on the Aquamariner is actually quite good. 

 
The bezel is clearly marked and easy to operate.  It is unidirectional, marked for 60 minutes with a 15 minute countdown.  But with a twist - you will note in the image above the number 20 is in red.  Doesn't need to be, and honestly I don't know what the design motivation was - BUT I LIKE IT!  Now you may recall that I said that black dialed, black bezel divers are what the people want?  Well, I stand by that statement.  BUT - when you add an extra little something, like a red number 20 on the dive bezel?  It's like a little wink, it's just that little something that adds to the overall look and feel of the watch.  

The case back is solid, and smooth on the wrist without the obnoxious deep texture of a monumental motif. 



Simple, and effective in communicating the pertinent information.  


Rated to 300 meters / 1000 feet this is a watch for the briny deep.  There was no diving for yours truly.  But several trips to the pool were made, and the internals remained safe and dry.



The screw down crown is smooth in its operation and easy to use and set.   And nicely branded to boot!

So it is solid, comfortable, legible, and water resistant.  

Great, but does it tell the time?

Yes!  As with many brands, Hager has turned to the folks at Miyota for a dependable, highly accurate self-winding movement, the 8215.  The power reserve went for 43 hours (and some change).  And the time keeping was very, very good.  Miyota advertises a fairly broad range for accuracy, but the average over several weeks was + 8/9 seconds per day.  Really not too bad.

Here are the pertinents, direct from Hager:

Aquamariner
Black

41mm Stainless Steel

$450.00


Stainless steel case with a satin finished stainless steel bracelet equipped with a slidelock extension. Uni-directional rotating 60-minuted stainless steel engraved bezel with a black insert. Black dial with luminous silver-tone hands and luminescent dot hour markers. Minute markers around the outer rim.  Automatic movement with a 42 hour power reserve. Date Display at 3 o'clock. Scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Screw down crown with tube.  Solid case back.  Water resistant at 300 meters / 1000 feet. Functions: hour, minute, second.  Case diameter: 41 mm.  Case thickness: 12.75 mm. Lug to Lug: 50mm.  Band width: 22 mm.


So what's the verdict?

Let's view this from a place I like to live in, it's called reality.  At $450 this watch does exactly what it says on the box.  It works really well and looks really cool.  I realize that those are pretty basic comments, but in fairness this (or any basic diver for that matter) is a pretty basic watch.  And yes, gentle reader, that is a positive thing.  A dive watch should not challenge your intellect or abilities to set, wear, use and enjoy it.  It should have a bracelet that you can adjust yourself (and this one does).  It should look good, and this one does.  And overall, it should not represent a choice between a year of tuition for your child (state university with in state tuition).  The Aquamariner is a remarkably well-made watch at wonderfully reasonable price.  It is not a show pony or something to shove in the safe and wear only on special occasions.  This is a real watch to be worn by real guys and girls living real lives.  And quite honestly, if you feel that you need to spend more, then that is a personal choice (and one that I don't really get, but then again it is not up to me to get everything). 

But given the fact that Hager has now sold out of the black and the blue versions of the Aquamariner, and has only 10 of the burgundy bezel versions left?  

Well I think it is safe to say that I am not the only one with this opinion, and I personally might need to make a move on the burgundy bezel version before they're all gone!







Sunday, September 15, 2013

Anxiously Awaiting the Kontiki

I LOVE the KonTiki.  I can't really help it, it is not a rational kind of love.  And therefore I am sure that I join several people out there anxiously awaiting the newest KonTikis to arrive.  There have been a few blog posts from others.  And I did get to see some previews in Basel and when I visited ETERNA back in May.

For now, I will content myself with my favorite so far.  This is the 1973 -
Courtesy of ETERNA
Fear not fellow-KonTiki lovers!  The folks at ETERNA will have you covered!

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Olivier Bronze Diver

Well, just down the road from me her in Santa Barbara,  Olivier Watches has set-up shop in Redondo Beach.  This is their Bronze Dive watch -

Courtesy of Olivier Watches
Here are the details straight from Olivier -

Bronze is a “live” alloy, and over time will darken as it develops a natural patina. This patina is part of what makes bronze such a great alloy for nautical applications, and is what makes bronze such a unique material to use for watches; each watch will develop its own unique patina based on the different kinds of environment and conditions the owner exposes it to truly making the watch yours.


Courtesy of Olivier
Specifications:
Case: CuSn8 Marine Grade Bronze
Case Diameter: Ø 45 mm – 48mm Lug-to-lug length
Case-back: 316L stainless steel with engraved design and unique serial number
Thickness: 15.5 mm
Lug width: 24 mm
Crown: 8mm x 4mm Signed stainless steel screw-down crown.
Crystal: Sapphire – 4 mm thick – AR coated inside
Water resistance: 500m / 50atm / 1650ft
Automatic Helium Escape Valve @ 9 o’clock position
Lume: Multi-layer Swiss SuperLuminova C3 application on dial, hands and bezel marker



Courtesy of Olivier

120 Click uni-directional bezel
Bezel 1: Solid bronze 120 click bezel with engraved markers and lumed 12 marker
Bezel 2: Solid bronze 120 click bezel with black engraved inlay, white markers and lumed 12 marker
[Both bezels are included and are user replaceable]
Strap: 24mm Rubber diving strap
Movement: 25 Jewel Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic – power reserve 40 hr.
These watches are available for pre-order now with a $250 deposit.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

This just in - ARCHIMEDE SportTaucher






Mr. Ickler was kind enough to send me the details of the newest ARCHIMEDE offering.  The Ickler family are the folks behind Limes, Defakto as well as another brand - Autran & Viala.

This is the ARCHIMEDE SportTauscher




It is available in really nice blue dial - and what I really, REALLY love are the ORANGE hands and the ORANGE numbers - really striking!

But if Blue is not your color, the folks at ARCHIMEDE have you covered with a beautifully understated white dial option.

This is a solid stainless steel watch, and at 41.5 mm it is a refreshing move back to a more traditional sized diver's watch.  Powered by ETA's 2824-2 self-winding movement, ARCHIMEDE has really delivered the goods.  

I also have to say that I really love the use of a sharkskin strap.  You still have the traditional options of rubber or a stainless steel bracelet for an additional purchase price, but I would personally be leaning towards the shark skin strap!


And best of all - you can order direct from the company!  Again, I am of course a little biased, but I have to say that it is great that you can interact directly with the folks who make the watch.  

Ready to grab hold of one of these?

For US customerswww.archimede-uhren.de/US/SportTaucher.htm for US$ 775 with leather strap or for US$ 945 with steel bracelet (including shipping and US duties) 


And for those of you elsewhere - International customers
www.archimede-uhren.de/EN/SportTaucher.htm
 for Eur 535 with leather strap or for Eur 655 with steel bracelet, plus shipping costs


Check out ARCHIMEDE at:

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

An "Oktupus" by moonlight?



Linde Werdelin has never been hesitant to propose something new - and the Oktupus Moonphase Complication is no exception!
This newest member of the Oktupus's growing family offers something more than mere water resistance and legibility.
This dive watch has a moonphase indicator!

Made of titanium and gold, Linde Werdelin's fantastic new diver has combined a Frederic Piguet 1150 and a moonphase complication designed by none other than Svend Andersen, this is something truly unique.

Only 29 pieces in the world - just the thing for your next moonlight dive.

For more information on the Oktupus Moonphase visit Linde Werdelin at:

www.LindeWerdelin.com

We will have more from Linde Werdelin, so stay tuned!