About as International as IHOP

STOP THE PRESS!

The International Chronometry Competition of 2019 has been announced.  Granted, the copy provided was a bit dodgy, but that's just part of the fun!

But what was even more jarring than the awkward English, was the declaration that this was the - International Chronometry Competition.  

I would draw your attention the word International.  

To be sure we had an unbiased notion, I turned to the good folks at Mirriam Webster -

international

adjective in·ter·na·tion·al \ ˌin-tər-ˈnash-nəl , -ˈna-shə-nᵊl \

Definition of international

1 : of, relating to, or affecting two or more nations

• international trade

2 : of, relating to, or constituting a group or association having members in two or more nations

• international movement

3 : active, known, or reaching beyond national boundaries

• an international reputation

Now this is particularly important when we consider that this competition is open to...

only Swiss brands!

Now I am not a geopolitical expert, but unless there was an overnight revolution in Switzerland, and Zug finally ceded from Switzerland in more than just operating policies, then this chronometry competition is about as International as the International House of Pancakes.  And while I am no expert, I am fairly certain that watches, and movements are designed and manufactured in countries other than Switzerland, but I guess the Germans and Japanese were not told that this was the International Chronometry Competition...

But as ever, I will let you read and judge for yourselves, here is the release in all of its "unique" language, straight from the source -

In 2019, the International Chronometry Competition
Amazing this competition launched by the Swiss City of Le Locle! The mere fact of being nominated is already a triumph! It is to watchmaking what a F1 Grand Prix is to the automotive world. Each watch at the start is already a pinnacle of precision.
Montreux, September 13, 2018, Stravinsky stage converted into a scientific platform open to the presentations of the Study Day of the SSC, the honourable Swiss Chronometry Society: in this leading watchmaking centre, Philippe Fischer, President of the Organizing Committee of the International Chronometry Competition, has just officially announced the 2019 edition. Faced with around 800 watchmaking professionals, he revealed the calendar, between March and December 2019, the new features of the regulations as well as the indisputable reasons for participating.

The precision tour in 80 days...
If a timepiece is taking the start of this Grand Prix, this contests, it is thanks to the fact that it has successfully completed the first precision test according to the ISO 3159 standard. What happens next is a mix between a speed and endurance competition, a mountain rally and a triathlon.
During 80 days, participating watches - registration deadline 31 March 2019 - will be subject to a battery of tests and validations: if the results of the first precision test allow it, the " nominee " status will be awarded and the name of the watch will be announced during the official launching ceremony of the competition. For the other timepieces, the rest of the operations and the transmission of the results will be done anonymously. Thus, despite the fact that these un-nominated watches remain real mountains of watchmaking know-how and expertise, the organizers are able to guarantee brands that no negative rumours will cause even a slightest damage to their image.

World-renowned Swiss precision: four accredited institutes
In 2019, only watches that satisfy the Swiss Made criteria will be eligible to compete. After the first precision test conducted by the COSC Office in Le Locle (the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing) the nominees' watches will be exposed at the Timelab Foundation in Geneva to invisible attacks by strong magnetic fields (ISO 764 standard).
From then on, and this time on a trip to La Chaux-de-Fonds, the competing watches will be embarked for 21 days in the intentional horrors of simulated accelerated ageing. This is the famous battery of tests epitomized by the Chronofiable® label, a protocol renowned for the harshness of its treatments. The pieces that will emerge unscathed are heroic watches. Moreover, a third and final chronometry inspection according to ISO 3159 will be conducted this time back in Le Locle, in order to evaluate the impact on the reliability of the "chronofiable" attacks suffered. The fourth accredited institution, the supreme authority, is METAS, the Federal Institute of Metrology, which chairs the Jury of the Competition.

One category, three distinctions
The final ranking will be determined by the results of the watches. Whether they are

Tourbillon, chronographs or similar to "simple" three hands, the winners will be divided into three shades of excellence each time defined by a lower threshold. This leading group will make the headlines, it will be used for years or even decades as a prestigious trademark. Because if the International Chronometry Competition is not a label in itself, its reputation as a title acquired through measurement and without any hint of human interventionism, remains the most indisputable of signatures. A phenomenon of radiance that begins as soon as the competing watches are announced.

 

The endorsement of History

As the heir to one of the most prestigious watchmaking traditions, this competition does not allow any human appreciation to interfere. It is the scientific expression of the science of chronometry, i.e. the ultimate quest for precision, the most subtle and successful calculations of which it expresses. Before quartz came to shake things up, these competitions were real highlights in the past. They were as promising as the Universal Exhibitions, which sometimes served as their showcase. Even today, brands still use their aura in their current advertising. They sometimes get thrilled at the exceptional value increases that such titles bring to their historical models in auctions.

 

The skills of the adjustment in the spotlight, thanks to Le Locle
What better place than the SSC, whose statutes include one of the last adjustment competitions open to students from all watchmaking schools in Switzerland, to launch the 2019 edition of the International Chronometry Competition? Because the precision of the precision is reached thanks to the calibrators, these watchmakers capable of magnifying exceptional calibres. When it started to relaunch this historic event in 2009, the City of Le Locle, City of Precision, was successful in promoting the ultimate virtues of the human hand.

1950's

From ARCHIMEDE -

Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE

This is something new from ARCHIMEDE and is definitely a welcome addition to their current offerings.  Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, may I present the 1950's.

NOMOS Lambda Roségold

Courtesy of NOMOS Glashutte 

Stowa Partitio - Just Give Me a Watch

Sometimes it is easy to overlook the basics.  And by basic I do not mean easy, or simple.  I mean essential, strictly what is needed, nothing more.  I often feel that it is only when you strip things down to their core elements that you really get to the point where you see true elegance.

Courtesy of  Stowa

This is the Partitio from Stowa.   Hours, minutes seconds.  Clear, legible - iconic.  No bells, whistles or gimmicks.  A basic, honest watch.  

Here are the details from Stowa:

Dimensions 

Diameter:  37.00 mm

Height:  10.80 mm with domed sapphire glass

                9.50 mm case 

Strap width: 18 mm

Lug-to-Lug size:   46.90 mm

Waterproof:  up to 5 ATM 

Weight:   62gr. (leather strap), about 110 gr. (metal bracelet)

Material

Case:  Stainless steel, solid case back

Dial:  black matt, white printed, Superluminova C3

Crystals:  Sapphire crystal, domed

Hands:  polished, nickel-plated with Superluminova C3

Starb:  Leather strap or metal bracelet

Crown:  Stainless steel with STOWA logo

Movement

Caliber:  ETA 2824-2

Mechanism:  automatic

Half vibrations: 28,000 A/H

Function:  hour, minutes, central second complication

Power Reserve:  approximately 40 hours

Number of jewels:  25 synthetic rubies

Finish:  Rhodium coated, blued screws, golden STOWA engraving

One important note - this one is distributed exclusively by Manufactum in Germany, Austria, Schwitzerland and Great Britain.

www.manufactum.de

For the rest of the world, you might try your luck by contacting Stowa directly.

www.stowa.de

First Post Revisited - Where it all begins

I looked up the other day and realized that in a little over two years I had accumulated more than 1000 posts!  So it seemed as good a time as any to hop in the "way-back" machine and revisit the very first post.  You know, sort of bringing it all back home -

This post originally ran on June 29th, 2010


Courtesy of NOMOS Glashütte

Time is fleeting. To measure it is a nearly futile protest against its inevitable forward momentum. How do we measure time? The folks at Nomos have been good enough to share some images and some stories. The watch pictured above is the Nomos Tangente. I have always been obsessed by this watch. Beyond the obvious - i.e. the design, I had always found the name quite evocative - Tangente. I had always believed that the name had a design reference. As if Mies himself had lent a hand (albeit from the great beyond) in the design of this great watch. It was only many years later when traveling through Switzerland with my German speaking boss that it was explained to me. The name Tangente had nothing to do with design. In fact, the Tangente was named for the roadways that you must travel in your car on a daily basis in Germany. At first I was a bit bummed out. But then I thought about the genius of this name. I have been smiling ever since.

Pegasus

This is the Pegasus from Sothis -

Courtesy of Sothis

I realize that for some of you, Sothis is not exactly a household name, but hopefully that is something that will change in the near future.  


Founded by Wolfgang Steinkrüger in 1996, Sothis has been steadily designing and creating beautiful time keepers from their Bielefeld workshop.


Stay tuned - I hope to have a great deal more on Sothis in the coming weeks.


www.sothis.de

Laco Absolute

Laco brought in Dietrich Lubs to lend his aesthetic -

Courtesy of Laco

Those of you regular readers know that I have a real soft spot for Bauhaus style, and this new release from Laco is pretty intriguing!

Here are the specifics -

Movement:  Automatic movement Miyota 9015

Case:  Matt stainless steel case, flexible lugs, sapphire crystal, 5 ATM, case diameter 39 mm, closed case back

Dial:  White with black and blue printing

Hands:  Hour and minute hand black, second hand blue

Strap:  Robust rubber band in black with folded buckle

Extra:  Black watch box

Also available in black -

Courtesy of Laco

https://shop.laco.de

Limes Chyros

This just in from Limes -

The Limes Chyros.  The name is derived from the Greek word  'perfect moment'. 

Here is part of the official release from Limes:

The German made, stainless steel case, is beautifully constructed in three parts, with both polished and finely brushed finishes. The coined edge of the case is echoed in the textured ribbing on the dial. Available either in black or white, both versions have eye-catching, polished, applied markers and a distinctly German look. The white dialed version has black Super-LumiNova lume on the hands - black by day but luminous at night.

The movement is the ultra-reliable Swiss-made, decorated, automatic Sellita SW200 TOP; visible through the mineral crystal display back.  The crystal is slightly domed and has anti-reflective coating on both sides and the crown carries the Ickler logo.

The LIMES Chyros is available directly from LIMES for
US customerswww.limes-uhren.de/index_US.php?site=inhalt-Chyros-AUT-US for US$ 1,290, including shipping and all US duties and for
International customers
www.limes-uhren.de/index_EN.php?site=inhalt-Chyros-AUT-EN for Eur 995 plus shipping costs.

DEFAKTO Night Shift - Summary

So it has now officially been two weeks with the DEFAKTO Night Shift.

So after 15 days with the DEFAKTO Nightshift it is time to sum up.

Starting with the obvious items:
Comfort - this is, without a doubt, one of the most comfortable watches I have worn for some time.  It is a 42 mm case.  In fairness, I realize that this is almost "average" by today's standards, but it is a substantial watch.  As I said before, when the "family business" is making watch cases, you can be fairly confident that the results will be pretty good.  Well, re-calibrate your expectations.  If the DEFAKTO is anything to go on, the case will be FANTASTIC!   The fit, finish and overall quality of the DEFAKTO's case is really among the best that I have seen.  Smooth, not sharp or rough.  But also well-balanced, not oppressively heavy or awkward.  In addition, the leather strap is really well matched to the watch case itself.  Thick, but not fat.  The strap is a great complement to the watch.

Legibility - FULL MARKS!  Thanks to the clean and modern design of the dial, the face of the DEFAKTO Night ship is very, very clear and easy to read.  The fifteen minute intervals are a great way to ensure a clean and easy to read time scale.  Now one thing that the wearer will have to bear in mind is that it will take a small amount of time to adjust to the lack of an hour hand.  Overall this was something that I came to hardly notice after a few days, and came to really appreciate after a week.  The logo on the dial is a nice touch to the face.  In addition, I really appreciated the use of a "skeleton" minute hand.  It really lent itself well to the overall look and feel of the watch.

Add to that the subtle addition of lume to the dial face.  This is a very nice touch and an unexpectedly (pleasantly) surprising feature to the watch.

Accuracy should also be counted in here - yes, the watch was designed in a way to de-emphasize the importance of exactness of time for the wearer.  Having said that, the watch was very, very accurate.  The Night Shift is powered by the ETA 2824 and my suspicion is that there was a fair bit of adjustment done in the assembly of the watch because the DEFAKTO Nightshift is a startlingly accurate time-keeper.  On three different mornings I tested it against an independent time source at 6:00 AM and it was always bang-on.

Value for money is perhaps the one thing that I don't generally like to touch on when I post, but at $565.00 US this is something that really bears mentioning - this is a great price!

For me though, I have to say that I truly came to appreciate the unique look of the watch - a classic minimalist design, very clean, but not sterile.

So thank you DEFAKTO for a fantastic 15 days!

www.defakto-uhren.de

Final Day with the DEFAKTO Night Shift

Today is the final day of the 15 days with the DEFAKTO Night Shift.  Final report later this evening.

DEFAKTO - Feedback from Wendy

And now, a word from the lady of the house…

James has kindly allowed me to contribute to the blog, after wearing the Defakto for the day yesterday. 

First impression—cool watch (but wait, how can I tell the time?)!  Actually, I have to say that telling the time is really quite simple and I seemed to manage to estimate the time within 3 minutes of accuracy. For someone sitting behind a desk most of the time (and ample access to phone/ computer/ wall clocks), not being able to see the time down to the exact minute or second on my wrist was not an issue at all.  The watch face is incredibly clear and legible and I personally really like the red dot as a small splash of color.

Second impression- really comfortable, surprisingly so…. The watch strap felt a little ‘thick’ when I first put it on but after it was on, I pretty much forgot it was there. The case is really flat and smooth so it sat on my wrist really well—no hanging or bulging out. Yes it’s a big-ish watch (this is, after all, meant to be a man’s watch and my wrists are somewhat small) but the strap is fairly thick so it feels really uniform between the watch case and the watch strap and I, personally, really like the look of a man’s watch on a woman (and James seems partial to the look too, thankfully, since I’m not one for small, delicate timepieces!)  The other great thing is that while the watch doesn’t feel insubstantial, once it’s on, it doesn’t weigh down your hand. The other great thing is that because it fit so flush on my arm, I didn’t have any issue with ‘bashing’ it on my desk or other surfaces—sometimes a big watch sort of gets in the way and I’m aware of it hitting hard surfaces (unintentionally, of course!); this one doesn’t present the risk at all!

Third impression—I showed the watch to a colleague and he was obviously smitten from the moment he saw it. The design is simple but really appealing and it was this aesthetic which I think drew him most of all (and this is someone whose father worked under Frank Lloyd Wright, so knows a little ‘something something’ about design!)  He too remarked on the weight—not too heavy but no lightweight, a watch that lets you know it’s there but then sits quietly in the background until called into action…

From the ‘fashionista’ perspective, it’s the kind of watch that goes with pretty much anything (OK, perhaps not the Dior gown!); is dressy enough for work but cool enough for play; is a conversation piece; is functional; and, most importantly (for me at least) a lot of fun!

James can always tell when I particularly like something he’s got, be it a sweater, a pen or a watch, since it won’t be too long after he has it before I (sweetly, of course) ask if I could “just borrow it for the day”. My intention is always to return it immediately and yet, certain items just somehow, mysteriously, inevitably, move to my side of the closet or on my desk or, yep, into my jewelry case… at that moment, James knows he’s a goner and accepts that he’ll never use that pen again, the sweater will never hang on his shoulders and if he’s lucky, maybe, just maybe I’ll let him wear the watch again for a day or two. I somehow suspect that if the Defakto ever made it into his ‘permanent’ collection, I’d be one happy camper. And yes, if he asked nicely, he could borrow it from time to time…

DEFAKTO Night Shift - One week left

And so, as is the case with any 15 days with Tempus Fugit, just as I have come to really love the DEFAKTO Night Shift, one week has already passed and I will only have it for one more week...

Today's topic is accuracy.  You may recall an earlier post about the Night Shift where I said something to the effect that accuracy was not the point of this watch.  Well, despite the idea that the one hand dial is meant to de-emphasize the exact nature of time, I am here to report to one and all that this watch is very, very accurate!  Today I decided to check with an independent time source at 6:00 AM - no deviation!  The watch is powered by an ETA self-winding movement - the same that you might find in any one of hundreds of different watch companies.  So it must be more than just the movement.  It must be something that the folks at DEFAKTO are doing... taking the care in their work to ensure a top-rate time keeper.

The Night Shift - after dark

On the face of it, the DEFAKTO Night Shift appears to be a nice, basic (albeit one-handed) traditionally white-faced watch.  However, once the lights go out it is a pleasantly different story...

Photo courtesy of DEFAKTO

The dial is wonderfully illuminated.  Unlike many "lume-face" watches, it is able to achieve this effect without resorting to the sometimes "lemon-lime" look.  It is a very well-executed design element, and makes me smile at night when I see it glowing nearby.  Thank you to DEFAKTO for the image as my sad efforts to capture this effect were nowhere near the quality that they achieved.

www.defakto-watches.com

DEFAKTO Night Shift - Day 1

Okay, technically not a full day yet, but as I was goofing off in Ottawa last week it seems that I have let things slide a bit here - so apologies!

The very nice folks at DEFAKTO were kind enough to send me the DEFAKTO Night Shift (English name) for a fifteen day test.

This is the "white" dial DEFAKTO.  As you can see, it operates as a one hand watch.  As I was running around all day yesterday, I decided that today would be a better time to get a sense of what time was like with one hand tied behind your back (or left off of your watch)!

The first impressions are extremely favorable, big, legible, and above all comfortable.  More this evening so please stay tuned!

www.defakto-uhren.de

15 days with the DEFAKTO NACHTSCHICHT

Just in today -

And now - 15 days with the DEFAKTO NACHTSCHICHT 

First update tomorrow morning 

Something a bit whimsical from Glashutte

As you have probably figured out by now, I have a tough time going more than a week without talking about NOMOS.  David has been kind enough to keep feeding me with great bits of information and has gone well above and beyond the normal scope of what a PR guy would usually do - or at least above and beyond what I used to do!  This is the greeting card you get when you receive a communication from the folks at NOMOS.  Think about this for a moment.  Usually the image and message you are receiving from a watch company is all about the history, the beauty, style, strength, accuracy, etc.  and as the guy who sometimes writes these messages - I am not necessarily disagreeing.  BUT - what happens when you take a classic watch from a company making their own movements, operating in one of the most famous sites in the world of horology... and let them really communicate with you?  You get the NOMOS Encyclopaedia.  And unless you are just a boring person - you smile!

This is 300 PLUS pages of pure fun!  Yes, there is a lot of information about NOMOS, watches, movements, etc., but there is more!  So this will begin my examination of the ENCYCLOPAEDIA and I will be sharing a weekly entry.  All credit for text goes to NOMOS Glashutte.  Today's topic is - 

Kissing with NOMOS - and why NOMOS is called "NOMOS"

From 1906 to 1910 there was already a company in Glashutte with the name NOMOS, founded by Guido Muller, and advertising specialist from Dresden.  He produced only pocket watches.  They were beautiful, tasteful models that very quickly became cult objects of the intellectual scene.  However, they were watches with a catch: the ebauche that ticked in them was very good - but it came from Switzerland.  So, after a few years, Muller had to shut his workshop.  A. Lange & Sohne had started proceedings against NOMOS, which ended with a settlement.  The company was no longer allowed to distribute its products from Dresden either because it did not submit to the rules that the court imposed.  

What had caused outrage in 1910 was necessary in 1990, when Roland Schwertner came to Glashutte.  Everyone who, like him, started making watches in Glashutte again, initially obtained components from Switzerland.  So too did the newly founded company NOMOS, which had nothing in common with the old company except for the name.  Schwertner, the managing director, simply liked the name.  Firstly because of what it actually stands for - "NOMOS" is Greek and means law, convention and just distribution.  Secondly, because Bruce Chatwin wrote about NOMOS in his book "The Songlines" and Schwertner likes Chatwin a lot.  And thirdly, "when you say NOMOS, your mouth forms a beautiful kiss."

From:  NOMOS Glashutte - The Great Universal ENCYCLOPAEDIA, copyright Kommunikationsverein, Berlin, 2006

   

And of course there has to be some watches!  These are three different versions of the NOMOS CLUB.

This just in - ARCHIMEDE SportTaucher

Mr. Ickler was kind enough to send me the details of the newest ARCHIMEDE offering.  The Ickler family are the folks behind Limes, Defakto as well as another brand - Autran & Viala.

This is the ARCHIMEDE SportTauscher

It is available in really nice blue dial - and what I really, REALLY love are the ORANGE hands and the ORANGE numbers - really striking!

But if Blue is not your color, the folks at ARCHIMEDE have you covered with a beautifully understated white dial option.

This is a solid stainless steel watch, and at 41.5 mm it is a refreshing move back to a more traditional sized diver's watch.  Powered by ETA's 2824-2 self-winding movement, ARCHIMEDE has really delivered the goods.  

I also have to say that I really love the use of a sharkskin strap.  You still have the traditional options of rubber or a stainless steel bracelet for an additional purchase price, but I would personally be leaning towards the shark skin strap!

And best of all - you can order direct from the company!  Again, I am of course a little biased, but I have to say that it is great that you can interact directly with the folks who make the watch.  

Ready to grab hold of one of these?

For US customerswww.archimede-uhren.de/US/SportTaucher.htm for US$ 775 with leather strap or for US$ 945 with steel bracelet (including shipping and US duties) 

And for those of you elsewhere - International customers
www.archimede-uhren.de/EN/SportTaucher.htm for Eur 535 with leather strap or for Eur 655 with steel bracelet, plus shipping costs

Check out ARCHIMEDE at:

info@archimede-watches.com
www.archimede-watches.com

A Classic Design

With all of the new innovations out there - and there are plenty - it is nice to see something classic - and reasonably priced! This is the Limes Pharo Hand/Wound Power Reserve, truly a beautiful watch.

The Limes watch company is owned by the Ickler family Pforzheim, Germany. Limes was one of the first companies to utilize the direct sales model - connecting to customers around the world via the internet.



And for US customers there is an added bonus, Limes watches are sold with the shipping charges included!

Visit the folks at Limes here for more information on this hand wound classic:

http://www.limes-uhren.de



Limes combines their own beautifully finished cases with Swiss made movements. The results speak for themselves.

Limes hosts a lively discussion forum where owners and owners to be hold forth on their favorite watch:

http://www.watchandclockforum.com/viewforum.php?f=110