Back to the Future Part 2 - Wrapping Up the Nomos Club Campus

So picking up where we left off, let's have a look under the hood.  The Club Campus utilizes the in-house Alpha movement -

Courtesy of Nomos Glashutte

Hours, minutes and the seconds at 6 o'clock.  The time keeping was just what you'd expect - bang on.  The greatest deviation I experienced was +5 seconds.  Wendy's mileage may have varied, but overall it was quite impressive.

The crown was tactile and secure, the winding smooth and pleasant.

For those of you spec oriented folks, here are the specifics on the Alpha movement, straight from Nomos -
 Data
α (Alpha)—in-house built NOMOS caliber with manual winding
Diameter10 ½ lines (23.3 mm)
Movement height2.6 mm
Power reserveapprox. 43 hours
Characteristics
Decentralized seconds, stop-seconds mechanism, Glashütte three-quarter plate, 17 jewels, Glashütte stopwork, Incabloc shock protection, balance spring from Nivarox 1A, adjusted in six positions, tempered blue screws, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage, ratchet and crown wheel with Glashütte sunburst


Now unlike the majority of Nomos watches, this one does not come with a display back.  And that was very intentional.

Marked with the bare minimum of information, leaving a large blank canvas to engrave a name, a birthday or anniversary date, or even a special message.  

Courtesy of Nomos Glashutte

Now I'm a bit old fashioned, but this is something that I think has been missing for some time in the watches being offered.  I appreciate the desire to display the movement, and from a cost perspective it is sometimes less expensive for the manufacturing process (believe it or not), but what I like about this particular touch is that Nomos is encouraging people to think about this watch not just as part of a bigger collection, but rather as that one special watch that you have no intention of selling or trading.  And if you buy one of these directly from Nomos, you can take advantage of free engraving.  

I like that.

The last little flourish that caught my eye was the use of lume.  While this is a somewhat dressy watch, it is also meant for every day use.  And to that end the folks at Nomos provided a cheerfully subtle mix of lume -

But for me, the appeal of the Club Campus is not entirely quantifiable.  Sure, I could throw numbers, stats and graphs demonstrating why it is a great watch.  But as with so many things in the watch world, for me the appeal is truly visceral.  It just speaks to me on a level that is hard to articulate.  And it took me back to that Omega that I found in the flea market in Turku, Finland back the 90s -

Smaller, hand winding, classic in design, and it just speaks to you.  I haven't had that same feeling too often until recently -

So ultimately, the Club Campus asks you a pretty simple question - do you want a bunch of watches knocking around your collection, each one easily cast aside, replaced, and forgotten?  Or do you want that one special time keeper that not only marks that special occasion, but makes you smile every day thereafter as you wear and enjoy it.  After all, isn't that the point of that one special watch?
 

Back to the Future - 15 Days with the Nomos Club Campus - Part 1

One of the great things about writing a blog about watches is that you get to find out first hand what a certain watch is like IN REAL LIFE.  I got a chance to check out the new Nomos collections at BaselWorld back in March.  And sometimes the lack of sleep, poor food and beverage choices and relentless pace of appointments all combine to give you a better impression of a watch than you would normally have in the cold light of day.  This was NOT one of those times!

I saw a lot of watches, and the one that really stuck with me was the Club Campus.  It was, admittedly, the smallest of the new Club pieces on offer, but I said at the time that in many ways, this version was the perfect watch for most men (and women).  And that continued to be my opinion during the first few days of the review.  

As you can see, the Club Campus covers the space on my hairy wrist quite well.  The face is clear and easy to read, and owing to the longer lugs, it is the perfect amount of "wrist coverage" for me.  And then I thought, maybe it might not be such a bad idea to get a woman's perspective on this one.  And so, without further pause, I give you Wendy Henderson's impressions -

Many a timepiece has crossed the threshold of the Henki home over the last several years in relation to Tempus Fugit's 15-day review. All have been interesting, many simply stunning- and saying goodbye to some has been immensely difficult.  As with so many things however, when there is so much abundance, it is hard sometimes to distinguish one from the other or for one to stand out from the rest of the crowd.  This is not to cast aspersions on the brand or the piece; it's simply that unless you are a true aficionado, it's just not always easy to appreciate the movement or dial or design the same way. 

On the other hand (no pun intended)...there are those which just sing to us.  Something intangible draws us in and it's pretty much love-at-first-sight.  And so it was for me and the Nomos.  I love the clean lines (very Mid-Century Modern) and simple design,  the color scheme, the band, the weight, the look and the feel.  This is a watch for everyday, a truly elegant little piece that makes me smile every time I look at it- and I look at it often! (Poor James hasn't had much opportunity to 'review' it since it's barely left my wrist; a sure sign I am in a slight state of lust here!) Incredibly comfortable- and legible- there is nothing to distract the eye.  Just a clever little quirk of the indices and an overabundance of class.  If Hans Wegner or the Eames' were designing a timepiece, I think this would be it. And as with all things MCM, I have no doubt this little gem will stand the test of time.

 

Saying goodbye will be exceedingly hard...

 

And yes, gentle reader, I did manage to recover the Club Campus and complete the review ; )

I have already mentioned the size, and to reiterate, it is actually what I would call Goldilocks size - JUST RIGHT.  This is contrary to what most would have to say, but believe it or not, at 36 mm in diameter, the Club Campus is PLENTY big for most guys.  The one variance for some (and possibly me) is that the owner might opt for a longer strap, and I do know that these are available in the standard leather, and I am not sure if the velour straps will be offered in longer sizes.  And in fairness, I get it.  The velour straps, by and large, are more of a style preference you might expect in a watch targeted more specifically for women.  Now having said that, the velour and leather strap accommodates even my wrist passing comfortably through both loops with room to spare -

And I have to say that it is a fantastic pairing with this smaller, but mighty timekeeper. 

Courtesy of Nomos Glashutte

And now I will pause as I have students waiting for me and class begins in less than an hour!  But I will be back to wrap this up with part 2 in approximately 7 hours - stay tuned!

The Shit That Killed Elvis!

From NOMOS -

Courtesy of NOMOS

NOMOS has a way of constantly drawing me back, and one of their latest offerings, the Club Campus 36.

Courtesy of NOMOS

While two years ago the "BaselWorld Trend" was for bloggers with beards like untrimmed hedges, the trend this year is clearly for smaller, more reasonable watches.  And the Club Campus 36 is by far and away my favorite BaselWorld watch so far this year.

36 mm is, believe it or not, quite sizable.  The dial is a unique take on the so-called California dial.  On a typical version, the Romans are in the "northern portion" and the "numbers" are to the south.  But at NOMOS they like to do things a wee bit differently.

The movement is my personal favorite - the Alpha.  I am a sucker for a hand wound movement I guess ; )

I hope to go more in depth with this little bijoux if and when a review becomes possible, but for now, I think I might have found the watch of the fair!

But tomorrow is another day...


Enjoy your watches!

Why NOMOS Matters - More and More

I am, for better or worse, a prisoner of my emotions.

So one of the crazy things about leaving a full-time job in the watch industry and starting a blog - even one as small as this one - is that you suddenly have access.  You get to meet some really interesting people and you get to see some really, REALLY cool watches - first hand.

As this is the start of 2014, and I started this little exercise four years ago - I thought it about time to thank some of the people who helped make it happen.

And first on the list is NOMOS.  Now, I am under instructions to refer to them as NOMOS Glashütte, and I get that, but I need for you (and them) to understand that I have followed them since way back when - back in the earlier part of this century ; ), when they were NOMOS.  As my auntie and sisters still call me Jim, well, I will use NOMOS.

I still remember the email that I sent - essentially saying "I want to write this blog, and can I write about you?"  Well, the answer was yes, but (in fairness) "who the hell are you?"  Well, it wasn't quite that extreme, but in fairness - who the hell was I?  What the HELL was TEMPUS FUGIT?

Well, to their credit, the good folks at NOMOS were the first people to jump on board and take this ride with me, and I think (although selfishly)  that this deserves a big thank you.  I could go on and on about movements, unique designs, etc. - but for those of you who read this regularly (perhaps likely when you can't sleep and need a soporific), you know that beyond technological wizardry, I value people first and foremost - and as it is ultimately about people, thank you NOMOS for your people.  They are what make you special, and they are truly why NOMOS matters.

What's Wrong with Esquire's Black Book?

Well, when it comes to watches, a fair little bit.  For those of you who have seen this or (like myself) bought it twice  a year, you know that it is a great compendium for style for men.  Clothing, shoes, accessories - and of course watches.  But if you really check it out each time it comes out, you will notice a familiar theme - Richemont, Swatch and LVMH are well represented.  Beyond that and Rolex it is sparse pickings.  And I guess that there isn't anything REALLY wrong with that - but if I had the "man power" to have one or more people tasked to gather information on watches, I'd go a little deeper, and not simply call my advertisers.  I'd try to introduce my readers to something different, something that they might not have seen before, something they might not already know about thanks to a full-page ad in my magazine.  So to that end, for the next five days I will be featuring 5 watches that I think you should know about.

A Watch You Should Know About - Sunday, October 7th

NOMOS Glashütte Club

A wonderfully basic watch with hours and minutes and a sub dial for seconds at 6 o'clock.  And for me two very important aspects - hand winding, and a solid case back.  

Courtesy of NOMOS Glashütte

I suspect that for many, NOMOS Glashütte is one of those watches that you have some awareness of, but truth be told, you have never seen, touched or held one in real life owing to the way they are marketed and sold here in North America and some other countries.  Go to Germany, or even Switzerland - and it is a different story.  You can find the NOMOS in what has become its "Natural Environment".  This lack of "tactile appreciation" in North America and elsewhere is a shame.  NOMOS Glashütte makes wonderful watches that are very well-finished and in many ways will stand the test of time and fashion.  Year in, year out the NOMOS CLUB continues to be a watch I would buy and wear regularly.  

The CLUB was originally conceived as an "entry level" NOMOS.  A watch that would be bought by, or given to a recent graduate as a gift.  It's design is not "of the moment".  It is, in fact a modern design that shares some Bauhaus design elements without hopping into the "Way Back Machine" to create a "replica" of a different era.  The CLUB is very much of its time - and it is a design that will endure gracefully.

Another thing to praise NOMOS Glashütte about is the fact that they do manufacture their own movements.  And on this point, I find myself in agreement with the Watch Snob, NOMOS Glashütte are doing something original.  They are following their own vision, their own path.

My favorite version of the CLUB is the standard model:

Movement: α (Alpha)—manufactory caliber with manual winding

Case: stainless steel, bipartite; domed sapphire crystal glass; diameter 36 mm; screwed steel back, height 8.17 mm 

Dial: galvanized, white silver-plated

Hands: black (hour and minute hand with red inlay)
Strap: Horween Shell Cordovan brown, lug width 18 mm
Water resistant to 10 atm (DIN 8310)


This is the watch I wish I had received when I graduated.

Manufacturer...

We all have, to some extent, a fairly grand and exalted opinion of what the inside of a true manufacturer must look like.  Sometimes that image is sold and packaged as part of a luxury image, and you almost expect the watch makers to be offered a hot towel and champagne as they arrive to start the day, emerging from their Bentleys.  I think in all of the hype and noise about luxury- what it is and what it means... we've lost sight of actual watch making and the real people who do this for a living.

I was shown this picture at BaselWorld by the folks at NOMOS, and this to me really summed it up -

Courtesy of NOMOS

It's nice to remember that real people are actually still making real watches.

Something a bit whimsical from Glashutte

As you have probably figured out by now, I have a tough time going more than a week without talking about NOMOS.  David has been kind enough to keep feeding me with great bits of information and has gone well above and beyond the normal scope of what a PR guy would usually do - or at least above and beyond what I used to do!  This is the greeting card you get when you receive a communication from the folks at NOMOS.  Think about this for a moment.  Usually the image and message you are receiving from a watch company is all about the history, the beauty, style, strength, accuracy, etc.  and as the guy who sometimes writes these messages - I am not necessarily disagreeing.  BUT - what happens when you take a classic watch from a company making their own movements, operating in one of the most famous sites in the world of horology... and let them really communicate with you?  You get the NOMOS Encyclopaedia.  And unless you are just a boring person - you smile!

This is 300 PLUS pages of pure fun!  Yes, there is a lot of information about NOMOS, watches, movements, etc., but there is more!  So this will begin my examination of the ENCYCLOPAEDIA and I will be sharing a weekly entry.  All credit for text goes to NOMOS Glashutte.  Today's topic is - 

Kissing with NOMOS - and why NOMOS is called "NOMOS"

From 1906 to 1910 there was already a company in Glashutte with the name NOMOS, founded by Guido Muller, and advertising specialist from Dresden.  He produced only pocket watches.  They were beautiful, tasteful models that very quickly became cult objects of the intellectual scene.  However, they were watches with a catch: the ebauche that ticked in them was very good - but it came from Switzerland.  So, after a few years, Muller had to shut his workshop.  A. Lange & Sohne had started proceedings against NOMOS, which ended with a settlement.  The company was no longer allowed to distribute its products from Dresden either because it did not submit to the rules that the court imposed.  

What had caused outrage in 1910 was necessary in 1990, when Roland Schwertner came to Glashutte.  Everyone who, like him, started making watches in Glashutte again, initially obtained components from Switzerland.  So too did the newly founded company NOMOS, which had nothing in common with the old company except for the name.  Schwertner, the managing director, simply liked the name.  Firstly because of what it actually stands for - "NOMOS" is Greek and means law, convention and just distribution.  Secondly, because Bruce Chatwin wrote about NOMOS in his book "The Songlines" and Schwertner likes Chatwin a lot.  And thirdly, "when you say NOMOS, your mouth forms a beautiful kiss."

From:  NOMOS Glashutte - The Great Universal ENCYCLOPAEDIA, copyright Kommunikationsverein, Berlin, 2006

   

And of course there has to be some watches!  These are three different versions of the NOMOS CLUB.