Showing posts with label Amsterdam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Amsterdam. Show all posts

Friday, May 15, 2020

The Cruyff Turn - And Michiel Holthinrichs

As a Northern Youth, I realize in hindsight that I probably had an unhealthy obsession with soccer (football), and later cycling. But I was not so interested by what was nearby. Professional soccer, at least the big time NASL version was long gone after a very short flirtation with American soccer fans. And as per cycling, we had a similar sort of rise and fall that for the most part peaked in 1984 when Connie Carpenter and Alexi Grewal both medaled in the Olympic road race. Europe fascinated me for a lot of reasons. One? Unlike many of my friends whose parents worked for the college (and therefore had in many cases spent at least one year abroad for their parent's sabbaticals) Europe was more of an idea, a fairly abstract construct to me than an actual place. More than a physical location to me, it was a passionate, lingering kiss on a dark winter night when I read about the exploits of my heroes. It was a promise of what might lie beyond the small Ohio town where I grew up. And I pledged to make my way there and find out.

Despite what I am sure many people will say, the United States has yet to produce a true soccer (football) prodigy. In truth? I don't think any country save 3 truly have. Argentina gave the world both Maradona and Lionel Messi. And say what you want about Maradona's moral character, in his prime (and even before and past it) he could turn on a dime, and deliver the ball the length of the field with a sniper's accuracy. Fed Ex meets football, Diego delivered. Mr. Messi is still dazzling crows. Brazil gave the world Pele, and there aren't enough writers in all of the world to do him justice. All three of these men are legends. And there is no disputing their talent. But one man truly changed the way that the entire world thought about soccer. And that was Johan Cruyff. He never did win the World Cup. At club level he was wildly successful, but what he did with his Dutch teammates in the 70s was truly revolutionary. The Netherlands is admittedly a small country, and what they built and accomplished in a fairly short period was remarkable. And it's one thing if your teammates and fans praise you, but your rivals? Franz Beckenbauer noted -

"He was certainly the best footballer Europe has produced."

Apart from the medals and the fame, Cruyff was famed for being, at times, contrary - which is probably why I admire him as much as I do. But he was not contrarian without reason. In hindsight what is abundantly clear is that he thought differently. One of my favorites? During a game, if he knew that he had no chance of getting to the ball, he would not run. Why should he? It was wasted energy. And as a coach he would encourage the same. Now, in my playing career I had several (in hindsight) not too talented coaches who felt that hard work and effort would overcome a lack of talent and imagination. Balls would be smacked far down field without direction or idea, and I would be berated if I did not blindly run after them in vain, like a harnessed greyhound hopelessly chasing the mechanical rabbit at Wonderland's dog track. If only that were true, Oberlin High School would have had 20 state championships ; )

Okay, so what the Hell does that have to do with watches and Michiel Holthinrichs?


The Cruyff turn was (and let's be honest, still is) the single most bad-assed maneuver ever done in a game. It took imagination, skill, and a willingness to trust himself in doing it.
And in all honesty? The design and execution of the Holthinrichs watches bears many of those same qualities.

Logic would tell you, if you want to make a watch, you simply design it. In so far as a case goes, you vet case makers from near and far and find the manufacturer who can stamp it for you at a price you can live with, you order your movements ready-to-go so you can drop and play. And frankly? Unless you have lost touch with all sense of reality and common sense, you will job all of this out to an assembler/white label company to do everything for you - just like some of the people paying "homage" to your ideas will do later. I mean, life is short, right?

But Michiel Holthinrichs is, clearly, a different kind of dude. A trained architect, he wanted his own design - not "influenced" by anything other than his own grey-matter. He could have farmed out his ideas to a case maker, but preferred the control that contriving a case through a 3d printing process would provide him. While it is true that the Holthinrichs cases are crafted by a contractor specializing in 3d printing, they come back more than a bit rough, and far from ready.

Courtesy of Holthinrichs Watches
I've shaken hands with Michiel and I can tell you that while they are the hands of an architect and artist? They are also the hands of an artisan and a craftsman. I don't think he is going to be a "hand model" for print ads in fashion magazines anytime soon. The case of a Holthinrichs watch is one that has experienced more hands-on time in the finishing process than nearly any watch (regardless of price) you may encounter.

I am (despite myself) a bit of an Hublot fan. I find Carlo Crocco's original design pretty beguiling. Gold case and rubber strap! Not something that readily comes to mind. It was such a departure that you can't really say that the idea came from anywhere else but within. And that is the same for Holthinrichs.

I would like to think that the world is sufficient of sharps, confidence men and quick buck artists. A few recent releases that border on plagiarism (if such a thing exists in design) tell a different story. Someone is always ready to ride on coat tails and glad-hand the press and other select sycophants. It is, simply put, some pretty shameful shit.

In many ways, COVID-19 has been (albeit radically brief in comparison) our own modern-day version of the Dark Ages. Our worlds have been upended, and we have been untethered from our moorings. We float now more uncertainly in unfamiliar waters.

I can't claim to tell you what the watch buying world wants. But I can tell you what I want. I want people with the sack to put themselves on the line and create something themselves to be recognized as original. I want to have a relationship with the the watchmaker. I don't want to "buy" meaning or recognition as it is defined by a press release. I want to have a conversation that might lead to a relationship. I don't want to order from the menu like everyone else.

And most of all? I want to be beguiled, just as the world was back when a skinny kid from Amsterdam could have played it safe, but decided he would rather "do me".

Not unlike the Ornament series created by a certain young watch maker from Delft, there was one, true, Cruyff Turn. The rest are merely hollow efforts at imitation.

Wednesday, July 24, 2019

Holthinrichs Watches with Watch With Us!

I know that we don't often give you a lot of video content, so I thought I'd shamelessly borrow some content from a great new You Tube content provider - Watch With Us.

Enjoy!


Thursday, June 22, 2017

Getting Personal - A Bespoke Watch From REVOLO

Courtesy of Google:
 
be·spoke
bəˈspōk/
  1. 1.
    past of bespeak.
adjective
British
adjective: bespoke
1.
(of goods, especially clothing) made to order.

"a bespoke suit"


I think it is safe to say that we have all had those moments where we wished we could change certain aspects of a favorite watch.  Back in the early part of the century (yes, 17 long years ago) there was a bit of a cottage industry that sprung up where you could get your watch modified.  Anything from hands to custom designed dials.  And that was okay.  You could even, for a price, reach out to the great and the good and maybe get a slight modification to one of their watches.

So when I heard about REVOLO I was both intrigued, and if I am completely honest, a wee-bit skeptical.  As mentioned, others have tried but really failed to deliver on a truly bespoke watch for the watch enthusiast of more modest means.


Spoiler alert - I am now a believer!

I ordered a REVOLO using the brand's online configurator feature and it arrived quite promptly, directly from Amsterdam where it had been assembled, just for yours truly.

Essentially, you go online, you make your choices, pay for the watch, and then the folks in the REVOLO workshop work to assemble your watch for you.

I opted for a 43 mm cushion style case, with a rose gold pvd finish.

Courtesy of REVOLO
  
I added a unidirectional bezel (also rose gold pvd), and a rose gold pvd crown -

 
I selected the blue "sandwich" dial, and a black vintage style leather strap -


secured with a gold pvd buckle.

Courtesy of REVOLO

The movement I selected was the Miyota 821A -

Courtesy of REVOLO

Put it all together -


So, before we get into the review itself, let me explain some of the design decisions.

Way back in 1968, my father was given a gold filled Mido Ocean Star the day before I made my debut in Zanesville, Ohio.


 Yes, the photos are terrible!


Regular readers will know that the Mido my father received and passed on to me is now with my niece.  

So I wanted something with a gold look, ideally without the gold price ; )

The Mido while sentimentally important was a wee-bit too small for my wrist, and as we do not have kids, it needed to go to the "next eligible" family member.

The second design cue came from a brief piece I read in  
The Rake, which was doing a quick take on the actor Michael Nouri.  It listed some of his sartorial trappings and included what was reputed to be a Breguet chronograph in gold -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb
Now some other things that influenced the decision - I am not (nor do I anticipate ever being) a diver.  I do,  however, like to use a rotating bezel for time countdowns.  I also am a sucker for blue dials and wanted a watch face that looked slightly more formal than plain old indices and dots.  So something semi-sporty, but not a sport watch, and in a gold finish, but not gold (remember pals and gals, I'm a humble English teacher).


I think most of all, I wanted something special, that I would always enjoy wearing.

So to finish it off, there were two additional flourishes:


Like the original Mido, I added a similar inscription.  This watch is for me after all, nobody else!

And as it happens, it was possible to add a customization to the watch box itself, so in for a penny, in for a pound -


Okay, so that's the background.  But let's get down to the proverbial brass tacks:

This is an INCREDIBLY comfortable watch!



Although the case measures 43 mm in diameter, owing to its cushion design it actually curves quite nicely where the lugs curve into the case.  As you can see, it occupies the space but clearly does not overwhelm my wrist.

More importantly, the watch sits flat on my wrist, no slipping or sliding.  And at that point I would like to sing the praises of the strap.  Unbelievably comfortable.  Described as leather, the top of the strap has a nice suede or nubuck feel to it.  All too often, a thick leather strap will not get softer, but rather stiffer (and crispier), not necessarily conducive to a comfortable wearing experience.  Not so with the REVOLO strap.  Soft, comfortable and really nice looking.

The crown is ideally sized, and does not screw down.  Again, given that I am not diving (or swimming) with it, this is ideal for me.  The crown itself is tactile without being "edgy" and the setting and winding motion are unbelievably smooth.  

The timekeeping is (sorry Rolex) superlative!  The folks at Miyota make an unbelievably accurate and robust movement.  More and more brands are making the move to them (even some smaller micro Swiss brands), because to them the cost benefit ratio that the Miyota offers far outweighs the expense and potential fussiness of a Swiss movement which would add a fair bit to the sticker price.  I have been within 26 seconds or so over the entire time period so far.

And the lume was not too bad either -


So all in all, I would highly recommend the REVOLO experience to anyone.  And the best part is that owing to the choice in movements, dials and cases there is not only something for everyone, the price points are downright reasonable.  For right around €500, you get a watch made just for you!  

 
 

Friday, June 16, 2017

A Watch Made Just For You


I recently took the plunge and ordered up a "bespoke" watch from Revolo.  After a short wait, a package arrived from Amsterdam, and I will be sharing my impressions with you from the ordering process to the delivery, to the watch itself.  

Stay tuned!

Friday, March 18, 2011

Maurice Lacroix and the World Press Photo Award

Martin Bachmann, CEO Maurice Lacroix, and Michiel Munneke, Managing Director World Press Photo
Maurice Lacroix is the official watch partner of the prestigious
World Press Photo Award – for which we have signed a
three-year partnership deal.


The Awards Ceremony this year takes place in Amsterdam
on 7th May. Besides the presentation of watches to the first prize
winners of each category, the partnership deal also includes
the annual “Follow Your Convictions” grant, worth €20,000,
initiated by Maurice Lacroix and to be presented during the
Awards Ceremony. With the "Follow Your Convictions"
grant Maurice Lacroix underlines its commitment to further
the critical work of Photo Journalists around the world.



The awards ceremony is preceded by a two-day program
of lectures, discussions and screenings of photography.
The exhibition of prize-winning photography will be shown
at the Oude Kerk in Amsterdam from 22 April to 19 June
and subsequently visit over 100 locations around the world.



About World Press Photo

World Press Photo is an independent, non-profit organization
committed to supporting and advancing high standards in
photojournalism and documentary photography worldwide.
It strives to generate wide public interest and appreciation
for the work of photographers and for the free exchange
of information. From its office in Amsterdam it organizes
an annual contest, exhibitions, educational programs and a
variety of publications. Since 1955, more than 2100 World
Press Photo exhibitions have taken place in 450 cities in
115 countries around the globe.


www.mauricelacroix.com