Sleeping Beauty Or Self-Induced Coma?

I have written pretty extensively about Anonimo. And in truth, like anything that beguiles you, it is hard to be objective. But as it has now been nearly 4 years since my last visit to Le Locle, I genuinely feel that I can say this fairly and objectively...

The lights are on, but nobody appears to be home. 

Anonimo has now been through at least three sets of hands, and seems to be no closer to realizing its potential than the day they started. 

Over the past four years, there have effectively been no signs of life. No new models (and forgive me in advance if I've got that wrong). Three model families that seem to be betting more on being acceptable rather than being what Anonimo used to be about - bold (sometimes goofy), always (for better or worse) Anonimo.

I will be the first to say that you shouldn't live in the past, but the real challenge is that Anomimo doesn't seem to even be living in the present.

The "Sleeping Beauty" strategy is one that is well-known around Watch Town. And as it's been four very quiet years, I have to wonder if that is the plan. So maybe, hopefully, there is some one out there who wants to step in and right the ship. Someone, dare I say it, who's ready to speak to the current owners and convince them to sell, and then plant a gentle, but firm kiss on Sleeping Beauty's cheek and bring her out of this seemingly endless sleep.

We shall wait, and we shall see. But for now I will hold onto this -

Not Exactly New - But New To Me...Millemetri

 Yes, you read that right - Millemetri!

Courtesy of Millemetri

So regular readers of the "Blog Formerly Known as Tempus Fugit" will recall that I have a long and winding relationship with Anonimo.

It is safe to say that without Federico Massacesi, there would have been no Anonimo. And although a slight blip with a brand named for Dino Zei that never quite came to fruition, with Millemetri it seems that there is finally (hopefully) something to replace the much loved (and in truth, often misunderstood) Anonimo Firenze (i.e. not the modern Anonimo currently languishing in Le Locle), but the original.

What sank the original Anonimo is hard to say, but what is currently throttling the new Swiss iteration is a lack of attention from the current stewards, as well as a collection of watches that (apart from the Militare) could be part of any collection, anywhere.

So what makes the Millemetri special? For one, the cases. Apart from the mystique of being a watch that better embodied the original Panerai than even the reborn Swiss Panerai, it was the Florentine cases. Add to that the Kodiak straps and it was truly lightening in a bottle.

The Millemetri was arguably the one design that Anonimo did the best with - at least it was when I was selling them at Tourneau in San Francisco back at the turn of the century ; )

The entry point of the Millemetri collection is the Augusta. It comes in three dial versions - black, blue, and Coffee (which is pictured above).

In addition to Florentine made cases, it also boasts a strap that might have a technological twist to offer an alternative to the Kodiak straps that the original Anonimo used - It is referenced as the AlaskaProTr.01 process (as of 2023 it was patent pending, I hope to get an update for you, gentle reader). Like the Kodiak process, it conditions the leather is such a way that it can be submerged in both fresh and salt water for up to 24 hours.

Back to the case - as mentioned, it is crafted in Florence, utilizing a special bronze alloy - UNI52575. It measures 42.80 in diameter. It features an automatic helium release valve (at 2 o'clock). The crown and escape valve are crafted of stainless steel, as is the case back.

The movement remains somewhat of a mystery to me as on the Millemetri site it is listed as Landeron, whereas at least one retailer indicates that it is either Landeron, or Sellita. My hope would be for Sellita.

The retail listed for the Augusta is listed at $1,959 on their website. 

I hope to be back with more details on the Millemetri collection. Although it is not "new", it is new to me, and I have a soft spot for Florentine watch making ; )

Remembering Dino Zei

I have been thinking a lot about the early days of The Blog Formerly Known As Tempus Fugit. One of the kindest, and most generous people I had the chance to meet was Dino Zei.

There are times that I feel if I have to read one more hyperbolic press release scooped up and dumped on a tray from the all-you-can-eat bullshit buffet that seems to fuel many of the tonier watch "news" outlets, that my head might simply explode. From time to time you will be lucky enough to meet someone who reminds you that if you can swim through all of the codswallop, and find something genuine, it's hard not to be romantic about watches.

There were, of course, plenty of interesting watches at BaselWorld 2012, but the best part for me was meeting Dino Zei face to face.  In many ways, there would be no Panerai as it is known now if there had not been Dino Zei.

More than anything else, the thing that struck me was what an unbelievably nice guy he was.  He is no longer with us, but the collections he partnered with Anonimo on are still pursued by collectors.  Curious to relate, when Anonimo was sold off, completely different forums and collector's groups spun off - it was almost like the mid 80s which saw the ill-advised launch of New Coke, only to come back with Coca-Cola Classic a few months later.

A paper millionaire's plaything now, Anonimo did (and still does) have a lot of unrealized potential.  The Dino Zei brand is, unfortunately, not nearly as well executed as it could be, and is (in a personal effort to be charitable) curiously presented.

Shortly before his passing, Mr. Zei penned a wonderful history for Anonimo -

From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

The History of a Florentine Brand

Naval Officer, watch designer, writer - dare I say it... Renaissance man! And now a few minutes with Dino Zei -

Courtesy of Anonimo

James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Dino Zei - It was a gift and there is not a real "history behind" it. It was a gift from my parents, for my First Communion. Unfortunately I don’t remember the brand. I only remember how important that watch was for me. I used it for many years, in the conviction that the first watch is received for the First Communion, the second after high school and these two may be followed by a third one, purchased with your own money. When I was with Panerai in the 90s, we came out with two Panerai models based on Panerai models of the ‘30s, I learned that there are a lot of people out there who like owning a higher number of watches.

JH - Florence has become a bit of a new contender for watch making. While it would be easy to simply point to Panerai - and as the man formerly responsible for Panerai it would be easy to, there must be more to it - what are your thoughts on this?

DZ - Florence is traditionally rich in terms of “craftsmanlike” companies. Prestigious in terms of geniality and initiative. These are companies that invent, design and produce products, many of which fall within the “luxury” market. The international level of prestige that Florence enjoys has its roots in our Renaissance, rendering these products extremely valid in terms of sales. Watches are obviously present among these different product sectors. For them more than anything else, “luxury” means originality, beauty and high quality.

JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

DZ - I wanted to be a Navy Officer (War Navy) when I grew up. I always wanted to do that, without any specific reason. Perhaps I had a romantic idea of the Navy…I was born in Viterbo, a city far away from the sea and lacking any maritime tradition or vocation. I was eleven years old when my dad took me to the sea. And I saw it for the first time in Civitavecchia, where my father and I went by train from Viterbo. The memory of that day is linked to the intense smell of rotten algae that is often present at the sea. The expanse of the horizon impressed me but did not surprise me, nor did it move me. Thinking about my life, I can say to have always loved the Navy deeply without ever being in love with the sea, which for many aspects, I have never appreciated.

 

JH - Before Anonimo, you were with Panerai, what did you do in the time in-between?

DZ - After having left Panerai I wrote a book: “La Panerai di Firenze” (Panerai of Florence), which in its second edition was titled “La Panerai in Firenze” (Panerai in Florence). Starting from the ‘30s, Panerai carried out intense and profitable study, design and production activities in sectors with high technological content and created many products, all valid, original, some extremely complex and innovative. But operating in the military sector and with highly secret products, it has always adopted the lowest possible profile. For this reason, Panerai was mentioned only for watches in texts and debates (also current texts): those of the ‘30s and those of the ‘90s. I didn’t think this was acceptable and I decided to write at least about the most significant aspects of all the activities carried out by Panerai until the end of the last century - a report on what Panerai did in different periods and with different men. In the monthly magazine “Orologi”, issue no. 248, of May 2011, a review of my book is included. 

JH - And prior to that, you were in the military, correct? How did that experience prepare you for the world of watch manufacturing?

DZ - In the military sphere, time has an absolute authority. Military life is always marked by time. Military activities are always programmed and possibly carried out in line with different timelines, with such diligence that for someone not familiar with it, it may appear maniacal. But it is essential for all those complex activities, like military ones, for which success depends on the orderly performance of various related actions. For this reason, the watch must be in the mind of each well trained operator, in addition to his wrist, and it must inspire and control the actions instinctively.

JH - How did you come to join Anonimo?

DZ - After having written the book that I previously mentioned, I realized that I wanted to continue to deal with watches. Dr. Massacesi, creator and back then owner of Anonimo (and an admirer of Panerai), proposed to me to create the “DINO ZEI” brand with which to design and create a line of Anonimo watches, and I accepted.

JH - I know that it is not always easy to choose a favorite child - but if you had to, what is your favorite Anonimo?

DZ - Anonimo watches are all beautiful, because they are designed with care, reflecting on each detail. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, is the “DINO ZEI”, “GLAUCO” model, automatic, with box in bronze and blue dial.

 

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

DZ - The “Panerai Workshops” of Richemont Group. It has continued to produce “Panerai” watches in large scale, without giving up the main characteristics and high quality in terms of precision, reliability, readability of the dial, charge autonomy, etc…I’m thankful to the Richemont Group for having brought Panerai watches to an important position on the market. The “Luminor” watches in particular have witnessed heroic deeds and do no have a low-profile aspect, as I said in my book: "that makes them unusual at the wrist of a woman and unsuitable to that of man of weak thoughts". I always felt they represented a product that was easy to sell for who has the necessary resources. Therefore, the Richemont Group was right.
 

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

DZ - I can’t think about activities other than the many activities I do. All interesting, some prestigious.

 

JH - What is a typical day in the life of Dino Zei?

DZ - I’ve been leading a very secluded life for many years now, after I’ve lost my wife. I have undergone a surgery with consequences that have remarkably limited my practical activities. I had the opportunity to institute two annual scholarships in the memory of my wife, to contribute to the medical research on the pathology that affected her. I continue dealing with this with great pleasure. Moreover, I read a lot. I barely write.

JH - There are a lot of current and former military people starting to get involved in the watch industry - what advice do you have for folks such as these, making what must be a fairly significant career change? 

DZ - The advice that can be given to people that quit a military 

career to operate in the industrial and commercial sphere depends, in my opinion, on the sector in which they will operate and also on the specific activities that they will carry out. I can only recommend to them that they operate without ever forgetting the principles of deeply felt honesty that has been taught to them, and always try to carry out their work in an ethically correct manner, taking pride in their work.

The Anonimo Militare Chronograph Vintage Green

I don't really think that it would be fair to call what you are about to read a review. A review involves impartial assessment, and an unswayable adherence to sticking strictly to the facts at hand. But my relationship with Anonimo goes back to 2003 when I was a "young-ish" sales person at Tourneau San Francisco 1.0.

Back in those days, Anonimo (at least in as much as we at the store understood it) was comprised of a handful of models, some more desirable than others. These bore the legend "Opera Meccana". The most popular (at least in my experience) was the Millemetri -

Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

It was available in orange, black, beige, silver, and I believe one limited edition in blue. It was a fairly straightforward watch.

Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

Another model based on the Millemetri was the Wayfarer, which never met the popularity that I thought certain it would. It featured a second time zone and power reserve indicator. There was also the D-Date which was the same case, and crown configuration, but with the day of the week indicated just under the 6 o'clock marker, and the date just under the 12 o'clock marker. To the best of my knowledge we only sold a Millemetri (black dial) during my tenure. And the less said about the ill-fated Match Racing the better -

Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

The other hot topic was, of course, the Militare. But curious to relate (and again, my memory might be failing me here), I do not recall that we ever had one in stock. This (to me) was baffling as the US distributor lived just across the Bay Bridge. So ironically, although (to my knowledge) we were the sole sales point for Anonimo in the the San Francisco Bay area, we had a very, very small selection, most of it in less than great condition. The other problem we had in marketing and selling the Anonimo watches that we did actually have in stock was the truly less-than stellar after sales service being provided at Anonimo HQ in Florence. Watches would sit, and sit, and sit for months on end. When they finally arrived back? Human hairs on the dials, straps not fully attached, one instance where the case back had not been fully screwed down and in. It was frustrating. Because the watches themselves were really good looking! The Millemetri, the Militare, and for my money the most under-appreciated model Anonimo came out with at that time, the Centometri -

Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

But not unlike that beguiling guy or gal that you dated in university. You remember, they borrowed your car while you were out of town, racked up dozens of parking tickets, and managed to total it when they forgot to put the parking brake on and it rolled down the hill into a ravine. Every ounce of common sense told you to walk away, but there was just something about him or her that made it impossible for you to imagine even short-term life without them...but I digress. Unfortunately, the blasé approach to after sales service and some truly dubious design choices put paid to Anonimo 1.0. 

Fast forward about 9 years, and Anonimo had changed hands once or twice, and was being led by a Belgium based manager, who if memory serves was something of a big wheel in the diamond trade in Antwerp. Without going into too much detail about the heroes and zeros, the long and the short of it is that the company went into the Italian equivalent of receivership. And Anonimo continued to struggle to establish and maintain any sort of consistent brand identity and product line. The Belgians returned north, and Anonimo stumbled along for another year or so. 

Finally, a new owner came in, and the entire enterprise was moved lock, stock, and mainspring barrel to... Switzerland! And slowly, but surely some order emerged from the chaos. Under the present ownership, a very talented manager/ CEO has emerged, and her name is Carla Duarte. In the past year or two she and her team have steadily revised and improved the collection, synthesizing it down to 3 product families:

Epurato, Nautilo, and the main protagonist in today's post - the Militare. It bears mentioning that the Militare is the only surviving remnant from the earlier iterations of Anonimo.

While it has a long name that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, the MILITARE Chrono Vintage Green is a fairly easy to understand time machine. A bicompax, automatic chronograph (SW 300), the crown is at 12 o'clock with the two pushers right where you would normally expect to find them at 2 and 4. The case itself is reminiscent of its forbears. Cushion shaped, it measures 43.50 mm in diameter, with a height of 14.50 mm. It is crafted of 316L stainless steel with a display back. And this is the one thing that I would change. The Militare is not a "show-pony", and in truth? Neither is the movement and its finishing -

I mean, it's perfectly okay, but not in keeping with the tool watch ethos that the Militare otherwise exudes in excess (in a cool, but not overly cloying way).

The watch itself is very comfortable to wear, easy to read, and the chronograph works exactly as advertised. I am a particular fan of the chronograph push pieces (buttons).

Red to start and stop, black to return to the starting position.

And my review model came with an extra twist - a suede finish strap in addition to the nylon/leather that comes standard.

For me, this is the perfect counter-point to the watch. And it also harkens back to the early days of Anonimo when each watch (for the most part) came with a Kodiak strap. For those of you unfamiliar, allow me to inform you that for one brief moment in time, Anonimo offered the ULTIMATE water-resistant (I say water proof) leather strap ANYWHERE! This was absolutely an artisan type of product and unfortunately one that has been left behind. But to the owner / shot callers of Anonimo - if you are reading this? BRING BACK THE KODIAK STRAPS!

Okay, so again, you can't really call this a review. But what you can call this is an enthusiastic endorsement. If you are into the Italian military style of Panerai, Anonimo (1.0), and others that have come and gone in the past 20 years, this is a wonderful choice. Moreover, I would personally pass on the other 2 options in the Militare Chronograph (black with white sub dials and white with black sub dials). Everyone offers a color way like these - or at least they seem to. My other peeve is that these two models have the words "Militare Vintage" on the dial. It's sooooo vintage, we had to tell you so ; )

At CHF 3,890 this is a bargain. And on the Henki Time "Visceral" scale, it scores a 10+

As a longtime follower of Anonimo, I have been often more disappointed than pleased. But in recent years with the current management team that feeling of disappointment has turned to enthusiastic support! And I look forward to the next offerings coming from Anonimo!

Here are the pertinents:

Case

• Diameter 43.50 mm, height 14.50 mm, 316L steel, cushion shape
• Green khaki matte dial
• Water-resistant to 120 meters, 12 ATM
• Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Hands with Super-LumiNova®
• Crown with patented protection system at 12 o'clock
• Open case back

Movement

• Swiss Made SW 300, 13 ¼'''' self-winding, personalized Anonimo oscillating weight with a bi-compax DD2035M chronograph module developed exclusively for Anonimo
• Power reserve 42 hours minimum
• 49 jewels
• Frequency 28'800 A/h (4Hz)
• 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock and central second, small second counter at 3 o'clock

Strap

• Aged black Mohawk calf leather strap, or Aged maraca Mohawk calf leather strap, or Green khaki fabric strap

The Militare Chrono In Green

From Anonimo -

A few months back I had the opportunity to drop in on Anonimo HQ, in Le Locle. And while there I got to try on a few of the new watches coming out and one of them was this lovely green time  machine -

And I have to say, I was very impressed. And getting to try this bad boy on and chat with the folks who assembled it, it was a bit of bringing it all back home.  So for those of you just tuning in, let me share a bit about me and Anonimo -

Way back at the turn of the century, I found myself behind the (at that time) excruciatingly cramped counters of Tourneau's nascent San Francisco location. In 2003 it seemed that everyone was obsessed with Panerai. As a local jeweler already had Panerai when Tourneau opened, we couldn't carry it new, only pre-owned. But we had an ace in the hole - because at that time Anonimo was actually made in Italy, and there is no more powerful tool in the watch salesperson's tool kit than an evocative story. And I am proud to say, gentle reader that my ability to expound on the Anonimo story enabled me to sell a BUNCH of Anonimos.

I got to interview and spend a bit of time with Dino Zei -

And while I have liked a fair bit of what Anonimo has produced, I have not held back on honest critiques. So while I think it's fair to say I am a fan, it would be disingenuous to call me a fan boy. But having spent time at the HQ back in November, seeing the watches being assembled, and speaking with the management I feel comfortable in saying that Anonimo is back on track and offering some very solid watches. 

So let's get back to the Militare Chrono -

Overall, this is a wonderful watch that offers a lot of pop and presence for a very reasonable price, coming in just south of $4,000.  

So let's get into the pertinents -

Case

• Diameter 43.50 mm, height 14.50 mm, 316L steel, cushion shaped
• Black, blue and grey hand-brushed finish, green matte dial
  
• Water-resistant to 120 meters, 12 ATM
• Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Numbers, indexes and hands with Super-LumiNova®
• Crown with patented protection system at 12 o'clock
• Open case back

Movement

• Swiss Made SW 300, 13 ¼'''' self-winding, personalized Anonimo oscillating weight with a bi-compax DD2035M chronograph module developed exclusively for Anonimo
• Power reserve 42 hours minimum
• 49 jewels
• Frequency 28'800 A/h (4Hz)
• 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock and central second, small second counter at 3 o'clock

Strap

• Aged calf leather or fabric strap handmade in Italy - bronze or stainless steel pin buckle 

The Traversetolo

Now I know that this might seem like an odd parallel for some readers, but when I think of Panerai and in particular the runaway insanity that the Luminor wrought amongst San Francisco's watch cognoscenti circa 2003, I am reminded of a moment that I had while manning the counter of the first iteration of Tourneau involving Panerai and the Eberhard Traversetolo. A customer came in and said:

Customer:

"I'm looking for a watch, I can't remember exactly but it sounded Italian."

Me:

"Ah, you're in luck! We just got this Panerai into our pre-owned!"  Needless to say, I was already counting my commission ; )

Customer:

"No, that's not the one..."

Me:

"Well, we also have Anonimo!"  

(author's note - this was back when Anonimo was actually made in Italy.)

Customer:  

"No..."

I took out my trusty copy of the Wrist Watch Annual and started leafing through the pages, and there in Eberhard's entry was the Traversetolo.  

Customer:

"That's it!  That's the one!"

Courtesy of Eberhard

(Editor's Note - this is the current Traversetolo, very similar, but not exactly the same as the Traversetolo of 2003).

Well, gentle reader, this is where a fast sale went down the tubes.  

"Well sir, I do apologize but we do not carry Eberhard...but I can see if we have one in the Tourneau inventory in pre-owned."

Every Tourneau was consulted, no avenue left unexplored, and the following Saturday we had not one, but two Traversetolos sitting in the safe.  

The customer came in, examined both the black dial and the white dial versions we had brought in -

Courtesy of Eberhard

And looking at his two daughters who had come in with them, bought them both! 

What this reminds me is that in a world that all might be swimming in one direction, there are a wonderful handful of people who know what they like, and can make up their own minds.

Enjoy your watches!

What Moves Me - Dino Zei

Thinking Back on Anonimo

As we get closer and closer to the 10 year mark for Tempus Fugit, I have been feeling more than a bit reflective on the journey that Anonimo has made as a brand, and of my experiences covering it.

Perhaps the high point for me so far was meeting Dino Zei during BaselWorld back in 2012 -

For me, and for many out there, our appreciation for Anonimo is not really based in the rational.  Anonimo has been a brand that has, for me at least, functioned pretty much exclusively on an emotional level.  Because had I been applying the same standards to them that I applied to other brands?  Well, let's just say I wouldn't be writing this now ; )

I've said it before, and I'll say it again, Anonimo was like that intriguing guy or gal that you used to date back in university, a little bit more worldly than you, and super exciting. I remember this person well, she'd borrow my car over the weekend, rack up 10 parking tickets while she was off visiting an old boyfriend ("purely platonic, I swear!") and fix you with this look when you got back that would just melt you.  Clearly a case of not keeping my heart and my head in separate rooms ; )

Early Anonimo was very much like that.  But just as my 4th year girlfriend had a sane, kind, really cool father who I met at Thanksgiving that year, Anonimo had another "father figure" - Dino Zei.  I got to meet him during an event at BaselWorld in 2012, and although it was brief, I have to say he was (and remains) one of the kindest, most polite people I have met in the watch business. 

So when I think about what moves me, what motivates and keeps me interested in writing about watches and the people who design, make, market and sell them?  Dino Zei would be right there at the top of the list.

So let's call this "Throw Back Monday", once again - 

A Few Minutes with Dino Zei

Naval Officer, watch designer, writer - dare I say it... Renaissance man!  And now a few minutes with Dino Zei -


James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

Dino Zei - It was a gift and there is not a real "history behind" it.  It was a gift from my parents, for my First Communion. Unfortunately I don’t remember the brand.  I only remember how important that watch was for me.  I used it for many years, in the conviction that the first watch is received for the First Communion, the second after high school and these two may be followed by a third one, purchased with your own money.  When I was with Panerai in the 90s, we came out with two Panerai models based on Panerai models of the ‘30s, I learned that there are a lot of people out there who like owning a higher number of watches.

JH - Florence has become a bit of a new contender for watch making. While it would be easy to simply point to Panerai - and as the man formerly responsible for Panerai it would be easy to, there must be more to it - what are your thoughts on this?

DZ - Florence is traditionally rich in terms of  “craftsmanlike” companies.   Prestigious in terms of geniality and initiative.  These are companies that invent, design and produce products, many of which fall within the “luxury” market.  The international level of prestige that Florence enjoys has its roots in our Renaissance, rendering these products extremely valid in terms of sales.  Watches are obviously present among these different product sectors.  For them more than anything else, “luxury” means originality, beauty and high quality.


JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

DZ - I wanted to be a Navy Officer (War Navy) when I grew up.  I always wanted to do that, without any specific reason.  Perhaps I had a romantic idea of the Navy…I was born in Viterbo, a city far away from the sea and lacking any maritime tradition or vocation.  I was eleven years old when my dad took me to the sea.  And I saw it for the first time in Civitavecchia, where my father and I went by train from Viterbo.  The memory of that day is linked to the intense smell of rotten algae that is often present at the sea.  The expanse of the horizon impressed me but did not surprise me, nor did it move me.   Thinking about my life, I can say to have always loved the Navy deeply without ever being in love with the sea, which for many aspects, I have never appreciated.

JH - Before Anonimo, you were with Panerai, what did you do in the time in-between?

DZ - After having left Panerai I wrote a book: “La Panerai di Firenze” (Panerai of Florence), which in its second edition was titled “La Panerai in Firenze” (Panerai in Florence).  Starting from the ‘30s, Panerai carried out intense and profitable study, design and production activities in sectors with high technological content and created many products, all valid, original, some extremely complex and innovative.  But operating in the military sector and with highly secret products, it has always adopted the lowest possible profile.  For this reason, Panerai was mentioned only for watches in texts and debates (also current texts): those of the ‘30s and those of the ‘90s. I didn’t think this was acceptable and I decided to write at least about the most significant aspects of all the activities carried out by Panerai until the end of the last century - a report on what Panerai did in different periods and with different men.  In the monthly magazine “Orologi”, issue no. 248, of May 2011, a review of my book is included. 

JH - And prior to that, you were in the military, correct?  How did that experience prepare you for the world of watch manufacturing?

DZ - In the military sphere, time has an absolute authority.  Military life is always marked by time.  Military activities are always programmed and possibly carried out in line with different timelines, with such diligence that for someone not familiar with it, it may appear maniacal.  But it is essential for all those complex activities, like military ones, for which success depends on the orderly performance of various related actions. For this reason, the watch must be in the mind of each well trained operator, in addition to his wrist, and it must inspire and control the actions instinctively.

JH - How did you come to join Anonimo?

DZ - After having written the book that I previously mentioned, I realized that I wanted to continue to deal with watches.  Dr. Massacesi, creator and back then owner of Anonimo (and an admirer of Panerai), proposed to me to create the “DINO ZEI” brand with which to design and create a line of Anonimo watches, and I accepted.

JH - I know that it is not always easy to choose a favorite child - but if you had to, what is your favorite Anonimo?

DZ - Anonimo watches are all beautiful, because they are designed with care, reflecting on each detail. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, is the “DINO ZEI”, “GLAUCO” model, automatic, with box in bronze and blue dial.

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

DZ - The “Panerai Workshops” of Richemont Group.  It has continued to produce “Panerai” watches in large scale, without giving up the main characteristics and high quality in terms of precision, reliability, readability of the dial, charge autonomy, etc…I’m thankful to the Richemont Group for having brought Panerai watches to an important position on the market.  The “Luminor” watches in particular have witnessed heroic deeds and do no have a low-profile aspect, as I said in my book:  "that makes them unusual at the wrist of a woman and unsuitable to that of man of weak thoughts".  I always felt they represented a product that was easy to sell for who has the necessary resources.  Therefore, the Richemont Group was right.

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

DZ - I can’t think about activities other than the many activities I do.  All interesting, some prestigious.

JH - What is a typical day in the life of Dino Zei?

DZ - I’ve been leading a very secluded life for many years now, after I’ve lost my wife.  I have undergone a surgery with consequences that have remarkably limited my practical activities. I had the opportunity to institute two annual scholarships in the memory of my wife, to contribute to the medical research on the pathology that affected her.  I continue dealing with this with great pleasure.  Moreover, I read a lot. I barely write.

JH - There are a lot of current and former military people starting to get involved in the watch industry - what advice do you have for folks such as these, making what must be a fairly significant career change?

DZ - The advice that can be given to people that quit a military career to operate in the industrial and commercial sphere depends, in my opinion, on the sector in which they will operate and also on the specific activities that they will carry out.  I can only recommend to them that they operate without ever forgetting the principles of deeply felt honesty that has been taught to them, and always try to carry out their work in an ethically correct manner, taking pride in their work.

What Moves Me - Anonimo, Dino Zei and the 6000 Professionale

We're going to focus just on the watch today -

Courtesy of Anonimo

Okay, of the 10 watches that I wanted to own from the time I started Tempus Fugit, this is one of them.  If Anonimo had a Facebook relationship status, it would be -
"It's complicated"...

My first official dive into the watch business was behind the counter at Tourneau in San Francisco back in 2003.  And at that time, it is safe to say that our store was really anchored by 3 brands - Rolex at the back, Cartier all the way back to the far right, and Breitling.  If my memory serves me, Breitling had been exclusively at Shreeve across Union Square, but I guess someone said something, and Breitling slung their hook and came over to us.  We had bits and bobs of other stuff: Severin era Corum, Omega, IWC, Baume & Mercier and pre-Biver Hublot.  I take personal pride in being the one sales person during my tenure who sold several Hublots at full-pop, which was not easy back then.  But my other sweet spot was Anonimo.

Now those of you who were into watches back at the turn of the century will recall that, in fact, everyone had Panerai fever.  And I get it.  It was understandable because the brain trust at Panerai back then understood that it was actually a good thing to have a wait list, to have demand, to have scarcity.  They were not exactly easy to come by.

Shreeve, again, was an unwitting partner in my salesmanship.  I would actually stop by Shreeve every other day to do my own, discreet "counter count".  I would make a mental note of what was out on display, if some models weren't there, etc.  And as soon as I got behind my own counter, I would write it down on an index card.  And it was a safe bet that at least twice a day a customer would come in looking for one.  I would explain that we did not carry Panerai, but had they checked out Shreeve?  If they hadn't, and I knew already what was in stock, I would dial the store number, ask for a sales assistant, and pass the customer my phone.  I mean, c'mon, I'm not hurting my chances by letting the talk to someone who will tell them that they don't have what they want ; )

While they were on the phone, I would take a few of my sales props out of the display case.  When the customer passed me back the phone he (let's face it, it was almost always a he) would ask me, what's that?  And that's when I (gently) sprung into action.  I explained that, in fact, that while Panerai had at one time been made in Italy, sadly that was no longer the case.  I further explained that, in fact, Anonimo was by and large as close to the original Panerai as you could get without buying a very expensive model second or third hand.

A back and forth then ensued, more Anonimo lore was imparted, and better than 75% of those folks then bought one.  A few years later I spent a very short amount of time with a smaller store in San Francisco that had Anonimo, and it was there that I first set eyes on the 6000 Professionale.  It took a few months, but it finally sold.  I loved it.  I loved the soft yellow, loved the look and feel of it.  It was substantial, but it was not yet another black dialed hockey puck with a strap on it.

Like most people who write about watches, I am often asked what are my top ten? One important thing to know about me is that although I certainly know and understand reference numbers, and while I understand that people love to dive deep into the esoterica of a given brand, it's models, and the various versions of it.  And as I've said before?  My eyes tend to glaze over. I find it the equivalent to creating a score card for a potential girlfriend or boyfriend.  It's just not my thing.  

So to you readers out there, if you have a line on a yellow dialed 6000 Professionale?  Let me know, because in terms of the what's on Henki's wishlist? The 6000 Professionale is right up there! It's nothing I can explain rationally with statistics, serial numbers or movement references. It is much more simple to me. It moves me.

It's hard not to be romantic about watches.

Ghosts of BaselWorld Past - 2012

Dino Zei -

There are times that I feel if I have to read one more hyperbolic press release scooped up and dumped on a tray from the all-you-can-eat bullshit buffet that seems to fuel many of the tonier watch "news" outlets, that my head might simply explode.  From time to time you will be lucky enough to meet someone who reminds you that if you can swim through all of the codswallop, and find something genuine, it's hard not to be romantic about watches.

There were, of course, plenty of interesting watches at BaselWorld 2012, but the best part for me was meeting Dino Zei face to face.  In many ways, there would be no Panerai as it is known now if there had not been Dino Zei.

More than anything else, the thing that struck me was what an unbelievably nice guy he was.  He is no longer with us, but the collections he partnered with Anonimo on are still pursued by collectors.  Curious to relate, when Anonimo was sold off, completely different forums and collector's groups spun off - it was almost like the mid 80s which saw the ill-advised launch of New Coke, only to come back with Coca-Cola Classic a few months later.

A billionaire's plaything now, Anonimo did (and still does) have a lot of unrealized potential.  The Dino Zei brand is, unfortunately, not nearly as well executed as it could be, and is (in a personal effort to be charitable) curiously presented.

So once again, my memory from 2012 -

Yesterday I had the GREAT good fortune to be invited to Anonimo's celebration -

Please celebrate two important birthdays with us:
1997-2012 -> the 15th birthday of Anonimo Firenze
1972-2012 -> Dino Zei: career of 40 years in the watch industry

And it wasn't just a nice part, Mr. Zei's new book is now complete -

From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi

The History of a Florentine Brand

Naval Officer, watch designer, writer - dare I say it... Renaissance man! And now a few minutes with Dino Zei -

Courtesy of Anonimo

James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?
Dino Zei - It was a gift and there is not a real "history behind" it. It was a gift from my parents, for my First Communion. Unfortunately I don’t remember the brand. I only remember how important that watch was for me. I used it for many years, in the conviction that the first watch is received for the First Communion, the second after high school and these two may be followed by a third one, purchased with your own money. When I was with Panerai in the 90s, we came out with two Panerai models based on Panerai models of the ‘30s, I learned that there are a lot of people out there who like owning a higher number of watches.

JH - Florence has become a bit of a new contender for watch making. While it would be easy to simply point to Panerai - and as the man formerly responsible for Panerai it would be easy to, there must be more to it - what are your thoughts on this?
DZ - Florence is traditionally rich in terms of “craftsmanlike” companies. Prestigious in terms of geniality and initiative. These are companies that invent, design and produce products, many of which fall within the “luxury” market. The international level of prestige that Florence enjoys has its roots in our Renaissance, rendering these products extremely valid in terms of sales. Watches are obviously present among these different product sectors. For them more than anything else, “luxury” means originality, beauty and high quality.

JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?
DZ - I wanted to be a Navy Officer (War Navy) when I grew up. I always wanted to do that, without any specific reason. Perhaps I had a romantic idea of the Navy…I was born in Viterbo, a city far away from the sea and lacking any maritime tradition or vocation. I was eleven years old when my dad took me to the sea. And I saw it for the first time in Civitavecchia, where my father and I went by train from Viterbo. The memory of that day is linked to the intense smell of rotten algae that is often present at the sea. The expanse of the horizon impressed me but did not surprise me, nor did it move me. Thinking about my life, I can say to have always loved the Navy deeply without ever being in love with the sea, which for many aspects, I have never appreciated.

 

JH - Before Anonimo, you were with Panerai, what did you do in the time in-between?

DZ - After having left Panerai I wrote a book: “La Panerai di Firenze” (Panerai of Florence), which in its second edition was titled “La Panerai in Firenze” (Panerai in Florence). Starting from the ‘30s, Panerai carried out intense and profitable study, design and production activities in sectors with high technological content and created many products, all valid, original, some extremely complex and innovative. But operating in the military sector and with highly secret products, it has always adopted the lowest possible profile. For this reason, Panerai was mentioned only for watches in texts and debates (also current texts): those of the ‘30s and those of the ‘90s. I didn’t think this was acceptable and I decided to write at least about the most significant aspects of all the activities carried out by Panerai until the end of the last century - a report on what Panerai did in different periods and with different men. In the monthly magazine “Orologi”, issue no. 248, of May 2011, a review of my book is included. 

 

JH - And prior to that, you were in the military, correct? How did that experience prepare you for the world of watch manufacturing?

DZ - In the military sphere, time has an absolute authority. Military life is always marked by time. Military activities are always programmed and possibly carried out in line with different timelines, with such diligence that for someone not familiar with it, it may appear maniacal. But it is essential for all those complex activities, like military ones, for which success depends on the orderly performance of various related actions. For this reason, the watch must be in the mind of each well trained operator, in addition to his wrist, and it must inspire and control the actions instinctively.

JH - How did you come to join Anonimo?
DZ - After having written the book that I previously mentioned, I realized that I wanted to continue to deal with watches. Dr. Massacesi, creator and back then owner of Anonimo (and an admirer of Panerai), proposed to me to create the “DINO ZEI” brand with which to design and create a line of Anonimo watches, and I accepted.

JH - I know that it is not always easy to choose a favorite child - but if you had to, what is your favorite Anonimo?
DZ - Anonimo watches are all beautiful, because they are designed with care, reflecting on each detail. One of the most beautiful, in my opinion, is the “DINO ZEI”, “GLAUCO” model, automatic, with box in bronze and blue dial.

 

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

DZ - The “Panerai Workshops” of Richemont Group. It has continued to produce “Panerai” watches in large scale, without giving up the main characteristics and high quality in terms of precision, reliability, readability of the dial, charge autonomy, etc…I’m thankful to the Richemont Group for having brought Panerai watches to an important position on the market. The “Luminor” watches in particular have witnessed heroic deeds and do no have a low-profile aspect, as I said in my book: "that makes them unusual at the wrist of a woman and unsuitable to that of man of weak thoughts". I always felt they represented a product that was easy to sell for who has the necessary resources. Therefore, the Richemont Group was right.
 

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

DZ - I can’t think about activities other than the many activities I do. All interesting, some prestigious.

 

JH - What is a typical day in the life of Dino Zei?
DZ - I’ve been leading a very secluded life for many years now, after I’ve lost my wife. I have undergone a surgery with consequences that have remarkably limited my practical activities. I had the opportunity to institute two annual scholarships in the memory of my wife, to contribute to the medical research on the pathology that affected her. I continue dealing with this with great pleasure. Moreover, I read a lot. I barely write.

JH - There are a lot of current and former military people starting to get involved in the watch industry - what advice do you have for folks such as these, making what must be a fairly significant career change? 

DZ - The advice that can be given to people that quit a military career to operate in the industrial and commercial sphere depends, in my opinion, on the sector in which they will operate and also on the specific activities that they will carry out. I can only recommend to them that they operate without ever forgetting the principles of deeply felt honesty that has been taught to them, and always try to carry out their work in an ethically correct manner, taking pride in their work.