In Memoriam - Angelo Bonati

 

Courtesy of Italia Living

Word reached the North Shore offices of Henki Time that former Panerai CEO Angelo Bonati has passed away.

In an industry where more often than not you are either born into leadership (Chopard, LVMH, Patek), or you land in a comfy place - think Mr. Dufour of Rolex, very few people could have taken what a brand considered something of an anomaly, and make it the object of intense desire. But that is just what Panerai became under Angelo Bonati.

There are unicorns out there, to be sure, but as we roll past the first quarter of this century, they are becoming much thinner on the ground. It's easy for people to forget how different things were in 2000. A 44 mm case was anathema. Today it is "average". Watch fans will recall the ill-fated Anonimo which is still bobbing about in the flotsam of Watch Town's harbor. Proof positive that without the vision, investment, and consistency, a brand will become an afterthought. 

Back in 2003 when I broke in with Tourneau in their original San Francisco store, we were not authorized to sell Panerai (new Panerai, that is), but we did a brisk trade in pre-owned Panerai. So brisk that a Panerai would go in the showcase and likely be sold before the close of business. That, in fact, was how I got mine. A "B" series Luminor. The rule for employees buying a pre-owned watch was that it had to stay in the case for at least one full day before you could purchase it. And you had to pay full price, no employee discount! So I waited, and once the doors were closed? I pounced! And to say I loved that watch is an understatement. I still miss it to this day. But that is a story for another day.

But that is the manic obsession that Panerai created, and continues to evoke to this day. And it couldn't have happened without Mr. Bonati.

Go easy, sir.

The Luminor Destro Otto Giorni

From Panerai -

Courtesy of Panerai

So it goes without saying that while my first (intentional) horological purchase was from Omega, and my first true watch obsession was the Vulcain Cricket, a solid third place was Panerai. And in fairness, this was Panerai writ large. 

 

Courtesy of Panerai

I bought my first (and to date, only) Panerai when I was working at Tourneau in San Francisco. I say first because I do hope to have another one - serious negotiations are currently being held at the highest level with my piggy bank.

That Panerai was something special, if not perfect. It was a B-series, hand-winding Luminor. I had bought it as a pre-owned item while working for Torneau in San Francisco. After about 3 weeks of wearing, the crown stripped and it had to go back for service. Thus a painful month or two was spent anxiously waiting for its return. In the end we were reunited, but as I have learned through the paths my life has traveled, nothing is necessarily permanent. Although no longer with me, that Luminor still ocupies a space (and absence) both physically and emotionally. And just when I thought I was over this heartbreak, Panerai comes out with something that has stirred up that longing.

Courtesy of Panerai

The Luminor Destro Otto Giorni is something worth obsessing over. It ticks the old-school Paneristi boxes in that it is of stainless steel and measures 44 mm in diameter. But then, to quote that other great commentator on watches, James Brown, Panerai "takes it to the bridge"!

For those unfamiliar, per the Planetary Group:

Fans of James Brown will recognize the phrase “Take it to the bridge!” from a few of his recordings and many of his live performances. For James Brown, the bridge is an instrumental section that features a new melody and rhythmic line, such as in “Sex Machine”. It creates a break for the listeners’ ears, a new context that freshens up the original riff when the band returns to it, and sometimes makes space for James Brown to dance.

And this is just what Panerai has done! They've taken the original Luminor, and coaxed something special out of it.

First? The decision to go "destro" (that's left for you, and I don't think it's political). It adds that special bit of "Panesequa". But then we get to the movement, and the unfortunate fate of my B-series winding crown comes to mind. Every day you must unscrew the screw-down crown to wind the watch, then screw it back down. This causes wear. Moreover every time you do so, you give more opportunties for your watch's arch nemeses to invade the inner sactum - grit and moisture being the chief offenders. But what if you could go eight days between unscrewing, winding, and screwing back down? Or to use the Italian - Via otto giorni? Sounds pretty great to me.

So let's get down to details - the Luminor Destro Otto Giorni is not an impulse buy, priced at $8,100. But then again, when you consider just what $8,100 is getting you, it seems in line with what other brands have going in that price category. But I would go further - there are very few brands out there with an 8-day movement. And about that movement? It is hand-winding (mechanical) the P.5000 calibre, boasting a power reserve of 8 days.

For myself? I'm obsessed, thank you very much!

And Then Panerai Called Out To Me

Okay, as previously noted, I am not a huge fan of mono-brand boutiques. Having said that, every now and then I get a pleasant surprise!

Newbury Street has become a hotbed for watch boutiques. IWC, Rolex, Patek, Richard Mille, and now Panerai.

Unlike a lot of boutiques - particularly the ones I remember from Beverly Hills, the Panerai boutique has a LOT of space. The displays are well spaced out, and unlike so many boutiques, there is actual product!

And of course, boutique exclusives.

And although everyone thinks Luminor when they think of Panerai, I favor the Radiomir -

And in the words of Chet Baker - I fall in love too easily...

I have been admiring this little wrist rocket from afar and finally had an opportunity to try it on.

The Radiomir Tre Giorni!

I think I admire so much because in many ways it is so different from what you think of when you think of Panerai. It is subtle, but yet still clearly a Panerai - just not so obvious! So now I have to have a serious conversation with my current collection and my piggy bank as the Radiomir Tre Giorni is haunting my dreams.

Above all else, however, a boutique is the people who work there. As a former Tourneau guy, I always make a point of identifying myself as press - NOT a potential customer. I don't want anyone feeling like I was wasting their time. In most situations, the sales staff will nod and say "feel free to look around". But clearly Panerai believes in customer service! Victoria who was working that day welcomed me, asked me whether I would like water (even sparkling) or coffee while looking around, and gave a lot of great information and feedback on the boutique, what was popular here in Boston, and is now complicit in my scheme to buy a Radiomir Tre Giorni ; )

So if you should find yourself in or around Back Bay, I highly recommend you pop in.

The Traversetolo

Now I know that this might seem like an odd parallel for some readers, but when I think of Panerai and in particular the runaway insanity that the Luminor wrought amongst San Francisco's watch cognoscenti circa 2003, I am reminded of a moment that I had while manning the counter of the first iteration of Tourneau involving Panerai and the Eberhard Traversetolo. A customer came in and said:

Customer:

"I'm looking for a watch, I can't remember exactly but it sounded Italian."

Me:

"Ah, you're in luck! We just got this Panerai into our pre-owned!"  Needless to say, I was already counting my commission ; )

Customer:

"No, that's not the one..."

Me:

"Well, we also have Anonimo!"  

(author's note - this was back when Anonimo was actually made in Italy.)

Customer:  

"No..."

I took out my trusty copy of the Wrist Watch Annual and started leafing through the pages, and there in Eberhard's entry was the Traversetolo.  

Customer:

"That's it!  That's the one!"

Courtesy of Eberhard

(Editor's Note - this is the current Traversetolo, very similar, but not exactly the same as the Traversetolo of 2003).

Well, gentle reader, this is where a fast sale went down the tubes.  

"Well sir, I do apologize but we do not carry Eberhard...but I can see if we have one in the Tourneau inventory in pre-owned."

Every Tourneau was consulted, no avenue left unexplored, and the following Saturday we had not one, but two Traversetolos sitting in the safe.  

The customer came in, examined both the black dial and the white dial versions we had brought in -

Courtesy of Eberhard

And looking at his two daughters who had come in with them, bought them both! 

What this reminds me is that in a world that all might be swimming in one direction, there are a wonderful handful of people who know what they like, and can make up their own minds.

Enjoy your watches!

The Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio

From Panerai -

Courtesy of Panerai

Available in two sizes - 42 mm (above) known as PAM 00722.

Courtesy of Panerai

Here are the pertinents for the 42 mm version:

MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical, P.9010 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai.  
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, date.  
CASE 42 mm, AISI 316L stainless steel.  
DIAL Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.  
POWER RESERVE 72H.  
WATER-RESISTANCE 10 bar (~100 metres).

And also in a larger, more "standard" Panerai size of 44 mm -

Courtesy of Panerai

 Which is known as the PAM 00723 (above).

Courtesy of Panerai

And as regards the 44 version:

MOVEMENT Automatic mechanical, P.9010 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai.  
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, date. 
CASE 44 mm, AISI 316L stainless steel. 
DIAL Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.  
POWER RESERVE 72H.  
WATER-RESISTANCE 30 bar (~300 metres).

The E-Commerce Micro-Edition

From Panerai -

Courtesy of Panerai

It would seem that the debate as to whether or not people will buy expensive watches online can now, pretty much, be put to bed.

Panerai is now offering a limited edition that will only be available through their online store.  100 of these will be up for grabs.  I have absolutely no idea how well the sales have gone, but if it's in your wheel house, you might want to move "sharpish".

Courtesy of Panerai

Here are the pertinents:

MOVEMENT Automatic Mechanical, Panerai OP XXX calibre. FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, calculation of immersion time. CASE 44 mm, polished AISI 316 L stainless steel. DIAL blue with Arabic numerals and applied luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’ clock. POWER RESERVE 50H. WATER-RESISTANCE 30 bar (~300 meters).

The Year of the Yardbird

In our continuing efforts to offer educational content beyond mere horological reporting, we offer this from our friends at the Urban Dictionary -

yardbird

native central kansas slang for chickens, also slang for a truck driver that hauls chickens.

hey guys, wanna get some BBQ yardbird after work?

that damn yardbird is goin' too slow, 10-4.

#chicken #'bird #chicken hauler #chiken #chikin

by huckleberry finn October 23, 2005 

 

Courtesy of Panerai

 

Now, back to the watch in question.  This is Panerai's offering for the year of the Chicken, the

Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio – 44mm.  Now the watch itself is pretty cool.  The "flip top" is hinged at 12 o'clock and and decorated with a pretty impressive  looking rooster which has been hand engraved.

The dial of the watch is silver, numerals at 12 and 6, date at 3, and small seconds at 9.

Courtesy of Panerai

Here are the pertinents -

Functions:

Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Date

Movement: 

P.9000 calibre

Case:

Brushed steel

Luminor 1950

Case diameter:

44 mm

 

Beguiling

While I realize that Panerai is not everybody's jam, I have to say that this one has been whispering to me in the night as I drift in and out of wakefulness.  This is the Luminor Base Logo Acciaio 44 mm.

Courtesy of Panerai

On the surface you could say - standard Panerai, not a "true" manufacture, ETA based movement, blah, blah, blah...

But it's the little things.  The blue logo between PANERAI and the number 6 is so out of the expected that I have come to be disappointed if I don't see it.  That is, of course, an irrational attraction, but then I've been told that I'm not always a rational fellow ; )  

And the "aged" look of the lume dots and hands really just speak to me.

Courtesy of Panerai

44 mm stainless steel, hand winding movement (Panerai OP 1 calibre).  Hours and minutes only - because in all honesty, what else do you need?

Movem

Luminor 1950 Chrono

Or the Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio to be exact.

Courtesy of Panerai

Panerai has really dug deep to offer some really special things for this SIHH.

Ahoy, Panerai!

This is the Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback.

Courtesy of Panerai 

47 mm of brushed titanium goodness!