Accidentally Montblanc

As both a pen lover and a dedicated Wes Anderson fan (accidentally and otherwise), I got a huge smile out of the Montblanc / Wes Anderson campaign -

The Transfer Window Opens...

At Bremont -

Courtesy of Bremont

News reached the North Shore offices of Henki Time today (albeit via nontraditional channels) that Bremont, the brand that takes as much pains to establish their English bona-fides as Madonna pre Guy Ritchie split (I believe a commemorative coin of the Royal Coronation is included with the purchase of any new Bremont, but don't quote me on that) have announced their new CEO, semi-fresh off of a brief stint at the rehydrated HYT - Davide Cerrato.

And gentle readers, I feel it safe to say that this one was a wee bit of a head-scratcher. Here is what Bremont put out on its Facebook account:

We are delighted to announce that today, Bremont has appointed industry veteran Davide Cerrato as CEO and a member of the Board.
Bolstering Bremont’s in-house capabilities, Cerrato brings with him extensive experience in branding, product design and development, supply-chain management, and production. Cerrato has a proven track record, having worked with some of the most notable brands in the watch industry including Tudor, Montblanc and Panerai.

“I am incredibly excited to be joining Bremont. I have long admired what Nick and Giles have managed to achieve in a relatively short space of time. The brand has been on an amazing journey and I’m looking forward to working with the entire team to take it to the next level.” - Davide Cerrato.

And this all sounds quite lovely! But in fairness, there is more than a bit to unpack from this Gladstone bag. For most of us who write about this stuff, we did not come across Mr. Cerrato until the launch of the Tudor Black Bay about 10 years ago. And while the Black Bay was a big hit, it also has served to underscore the importance of thinking beyond the next year. I personally own a Black Bay x Rowing Blazers, but I also know from the number of Black Bay watches rolling in and out of pre-owned shops that this was a bit of a one-trick pony that while not having jumped the shark, has probably overplayed its hand. 

A move to Montblanc. And then rebirth at HYT of all places where, if we are being honest, was likely not an entirely satisfactory engagement for all involved.

With what London School of Economics trained economists would refer to as a "shit-ton" of cash, Bremont is set to do some big things. So we wish Mr. Cerrato God's Speed. 

Let It Flow

News dripped into the North Shore HQ of Tempus Fugit that Watch Town had another Festivus Miracle in store for us:

HYT has turned on the taps, and the magic is flowing once again ; )

Courtesy of HYT

Davide Cerrato has been tapped to prime the pumps and flush the tubes of the formerly dormant HYT, with an anticipated relaunch in January. I cannot claim to know Mr. Cerrato personally, but can say that I enjoyed the one or two presentations he gave at BaselWorld when he was with Tudor. I wish him the best of success in getting HYT flowing in the right direction.

With that said, I have to admit that regarding HYT, I am somewhat ambivalent. It is an interesting concept, it definitely had as many fans as detractors, and maybe it is ready to take off. It has just never really been a concept that I got too excited about one way or another. But it's a new day, and let's see what January brings. 

So here is the release, straight from the source -

KTS (Kairos Technology Switzerland SA) takes over the reins of HYT, acquires all of its assets and appoints David Cerrato CEO. A revival and long- term development of the brand are thus assured by a Swiss company.

In 2012, the HYT watch brand created a buzz within the watchmaking community with its hybrid mechanical-fluidic technology allowing the time to be displayed using fluids. This unique module is driven by a manufactured mechanical movement. HYT thus combines mechanical virtuosity and avant-garde technology.

In 2021, Kairos Technology Switzerland SA took over all the assets of HYT and appointed Davide Cerrato as CEO. This veteran of the watchmaking industry, with a track record of success with brands such as Panerai, Tudor and Montblanc/Minerva, has accepted this new challenge.

"I am delighted to take over the general management of this magnificent brand. HYT has succeeded in bringing a new dimension to the watch industry thanks to its innovative and groundbreaking content. The brand is thus clearly positioned as a "trailblazer" for fine watchmaking in the new millennium. We have already set to work to perpetuate this promise of innovation, to re-enchant watch enthusiasts and collectors, but also to push back the existing technical limits, by materialising a new pleasure of wearing a luxury watch. A pleasure that mixes 'maestria' with mechanical virtuosity, fluid displays and avant-garde designs." says Davide Cerrato, HYT's new CEO.

HYT's activities resumed in September to present the brand's new identity and a new watch expression, scheduled for launch in January 2022.

That's What Makes a Horserace

So as I continue to wear and enjoy the benefits of the NOWA connected watch, I just received the latest release from Montblanc, and to be honest, I think we have now reached a point where we have over-thought, over-developed, and dare I say it - over-engineered the idea of a watch.

Courtesy of Montblanc

My memaw Theo had an expression about differences of opinion, and how to voice an opinion without really voicing it (and hopefully avoid offending those in the opposite camp).

I am of a few minds when it comes to Montblanc and their watches.  I am in a weird place about it personally, because I count a guy who in many ways really blazed the trail for their watch making division  as a personal friend.  And hence I know what has gone into the real creation of Montblanc.  And although I have been somewhat guilty of it in the past, I recently find that I no longer feel that a company or brand must "stay in its lane".  In many ways Montblanc has done a great deal to grow beyond just pens.  And I am currently saving up for this item to shepherd Tempus Fugit and New Romantics communications and dossiers -

Courtesy of Montblanc

So to be very clear, I think that Montblanc does have a very cool product selection, and has elegantly grown to a more expansive luxury brand.

Having said that, this particular venture with a smart watch has perhaps outgrown the original idea.  

Courtesy of Montblanc

At the heart of the idea of a smart watch, is the idea that it will give us vital information that might make our lives easier, or help us live better.  Ways that a connected or smart watch can do this?  Different time zones, GPS tracking systems that can be used for children or senior citizens, alarms, notifications of important messages, sleep tracking or steps (i.e. physical activity).  

But somewhere after the Apple Watch made its debut, there seemed to be a belief that your watch should be able to do everything except (perhaps) make toast and coffee.

Now coffee for me is a very important part of every day life.  Coffee, in many ways, is a personal ritual.  It is also a social connector.  So I was a bit curious as to why I would need a smart / connected watch to tell me that I have had too much coffee?  Now, if there was an app in the phone that could ping me when I am in range of an awesome cafe?  Now that I would pay for ; )

I guess my point is this, it is now, perhaps, too much information that we are trying to funnel through such a small portal.  It is not a practical way to gather, store and disseminate.  And to manage all of these functions in a meaningful way?  It's going to take away (not add) several hours a week to your free time.  Technology that is designed to improve your life should do just that.  At this point, I have to question whether we have now over-shot the runway.

Finally, it is expensive for an item (like a cell phone) that has obsolescence already factored into its lifespan.  $995 US.  This is not a watch that you will hand down to others.  It will have a lifespan, then it will be consigned to landfill.  And this is not unique to Montblanc, Tag, or Apple.  It is just the reality of this type of watch.

But as always, here are the pertinents straight from the source, and you can judge for yourself -

#StayAhead With Summit 2: Montblanc Redefines Connected Elegance With Its New Smartwatch

• Bridging fine watchmaking and state-of-the-art technology
• Brand new 42mm case designed for both men and women includes the new Qualcomm
  Snapdragon Wear 3100 chipset and exciting new features
• Summit 2 is the ultimate wearable built for work, leisure, fitness or travel, accompanying today’s
  achievers through their everyday adventures
• Includes the new Timeshifter® app and watch face – an effective way to reduce jet lag
  Named after its ambition to be a wearable companion that keeps its owner ahead in all aspects of life, Summit 2 is a new digital interpretation of fine watchmaking that seamlessly brings together the Swiss design codes of traditional timepieces, premium materials and brand-new technology. First launched in 2017 as luxury smartwatch with a distinctively classic and vintage look, the latest edition of Montblanc’s signature smartwatch features a more compact unisex 42mm case size that delivers the feeling of a mechanical watch on its owner’s wrist while offering innovative new features. Powered by advanced technologies on the market, Summit 2 is the first luxury smartwatch to feature the Snapdragon Wear 3100 chipset by Qualcommfor enhanced performance, improved battery life and a weeklong time-only mode. The latest Wear OS by Google powers Summit 2 with iOS and Android smartphones.

“Built for travel, fitness or exploration, Summit 2 is a versatile companion created for urban explorers, business travellers and performance seekers looking to push boundaries in everything they do,” explains Nicolas Baretzki, Montblanc CEO. “These high achieving individuals want to be connected at all times with easy access to functional features and apps that allow them to always stay ahead and be productive on-the-go, while still enjoying the experience of wearing a fine timepiece. Whether work, leisure, fitness or travel, Summit 2 is built to seamlessly power them through their everyday adventures stylishly and reliably.”
Inspired by the design codes of the Montblanc 1858 collection, the new iteration of Summit offers several design expressions, from the classic elegance of 1858 and the vintage sophistication of the Summit, from the feminine allure of Bohème Date and Bohème Classic variations to the sporty Energy and Fitness styles designed for peak performance and physical activity.
With the built-in watch face configurator, over a thousand watch face combinations are possible by customizing indicators, background, hands and complications.
The different case finishes – black DLC steel, stainless steel, bicolour steel and titanium Grade 2 – can be combined with 11 different interchangeable strap options including calfskin, Milanese steel, rubber sport and nylon, to create a total of over 70,000 individual looks across the Summit 2 assortment. Each timepiece is fitted with a rotating crown and two additional programmable pushers.

Montblanc Summit 2 | New Technologies

A Companion for Urban Exploration

• With the help of the Google Assistant, users will get proactive, personalized assistance like their flight status or upcoming reservations. They can also use the watch's microphone, to ask for help or get directions or translations. The Google Assistant can also manage tasks like setting reminders or checking your heart rate.
• All notifications – including incoming calls, messages, social media updates, calendar events, news and more - are directly synced to the Montblanc Summit 2 from a smartphone. When there isn’t time to start typing a reply on the smartphone, the Montblanc Summit 2 offers built-in smart replies and other quick ways to respond with handwriting, keyboard or voice dictation.
• The always-on colour ambient mode allows for the watch faces to be visible at all times, while delivering a full day of battery life running Wear OS by Google. The battery life can be extended by an additional 3 - 5 days by deactivating smartwatch functionality while still showing the time at a flick of the wrist.
  Making Travel A Seamless Adventure

• Summit 2’s exclusive travel functions include the new Timeshifter® app and watch face, providing personalized advice to minimize jet lag based on the traveller’s sleep pattern, chronotype, and flight plan. Used by astronauts and elite athletes, and based on the latest in sleep and circadian neuroscience, Timeshifter provides timely updates and instructions directly on the Summit 2 watch face, helping travellers to adjust fast to a new time zone.
• The new Montblanc exclusive Travel Info app provides relevant local traveller information.
• The practical voice-activated translator gives its user direct translations from a multitude of languages directly to the watch’s display, making travelling in foreign countries simpler than ever.

• With the addition of Google Pay, meals, tickets and new experiences can be purchased in a fast easy way, without cash.
Reaching New Heights of Fitness

• Achieving peak physical performance is a key function of Summit 2. The exclusive Montblanc Running Coach app, powered by scientific insight from the Firstbeat* analytics engine, enables runners to track fitness levels (based on VO2max) and specify a fitness goal which translates into a personalized training plan built around ideal efforts and recovery times.
• The integrated live coach provides the right pace and intensity level during training to help users reach their fitness goals.
• Summit 2 features an improved Heart Rate Algorithm and 5 ATM water-resistance making it resilient to swimming. The integrated GPS allows navigation and more precise fitness tracking when away from the phone.
  *Firstbeat is a registered trademark of Firstbeat Technologies Oy
  Summit 2 is available from October 15th 2018. For further information, visit
  www.montblanc.com/Summit2

Where's the Love?

So it is now clear that the shot callers at Richemont, and the people that they employ have recognized that they have a fundamental difference of opinion regarding how they should work together to improve the financial situation of the group.

Richemont believes that jobs should be cut.  Oh, and instead of trimming the executive levels, they should increase them by shifting the current CEOs into even higher level (most likely higher paying) positions and replace them with new CEOs which will (you guessed it) increase the amount of payroll and benefits directed towards senior level management.

The people who do the actual heavy lifting have a different perspective - maybe they could go to part time / reduced schedules, hang on to their jobs, and work TOGETHER to try and improve the very awful situation that the very people getting promoted are actually responsible for.

Today the rubber hit the road as the UNIA labor union reported in their newsletter that approximately 700 watch makers in the Vallée de Joux and Geneva protested against what appears to be a nearly terminal case of "Greedy Bastarditis".  Here is a link to the article -

UNIA

"Our lives count more than your profit!"
That was the rallying cry of those protesting, and it signals what an industry insider shared with me was a truly unique moment in the history of the Swiss watch industry.  Typically, the employees would cave, accept the situation and move on.  But in my personal opinion, I think that the people who are being expected to pay the freight on the excesses, miscalculations, and failures of the people now being promoted have finally had enough and are calling BULLSHIT.  The emperor is running around "starkers" and it's time to work TOGETHER to try and find a reasonable solution.

Again, I am sure nobody at the upper levels of Richemont or UNIA are likely reading this, but I am a qualified mediator, and I'd be happy to help you guys work it out ; )

 

 

The Transfer Window Opens

At Montblanc

Shamelessly lifted from the world wide infoweb

In an admittedly not-so-shocking move, Montblanc has opted to play the river card, so we shall see if Nicolas Baretzki is the nice, safe, stable choice that they are no doubt looking for.  It was announced that he will assume the role of CEO at Montblanc in April, filling the vacancy created by Jerome Lambert's appointment to the "circle of trust" at Richemont HQ.   In fairness, Montblanc at the moment would be a pretty challenging thing to goof up, but it is also safe to say that they have probably realized the upper limits of what horological rarities are really going to bear for them. 

As with so many things, we will wait, and we will see.   Sometimes you have to play not to lose rather than play to win.  Mr. Baretzki is a Richemont loyalist, he knows the rules, and he knows how the game is played.  So with luck there will be no dramatic "Nataf-esque" goofiness, just a trusted steward of the brand.

A New Roller Ball Pen

From Manu Propria -

Courtesy of Manu Propria

This is the latest of Martin Pauli's latest creation - a roller ball.  Hand made one at a time by Martin in his atelier in Switzerland.

Available from March first.

Souverän M101N Tortoiseshell-Red

From Pelikan -

Courtesy of Pelikan

The unique tortoise shell barrel is crafted from cellulose acetate, while the solid red pieces are made of resin.  This is the third piece in a series inspired by Pelikan's past.

Edelberg Sloop "Le Chronopassion"

A little something for you watch and pen lovers -

Courtesy of Edelberg

This is the Edelberg Sloop "Le Chronopassion".

An Open Letter to Richemont and Montblanc

Dear Richemont and Montblanc,

Before anything else, I want to congratulate you on the development and growth of Montblanc as a watch brand.  I think I would not be alone if I said that when you first made this move, I had some very real doubts, but you have made believers of us all.

But the real reason for my letter to you both, is to sincerely request that you bring back Minerva as a watch making brand.  Bringing Minerva into the fold of Richemont made perfect sense.  It offered real knowledge and experience - true legitimacy in what is truly a disappearing metier for many.  A small manufacture, making movements - doing something not to necessarily make millions, but doing it out of a love for something made in small batches.  I am not talking about the highly specialized micro-commerce of the fiercely independent watch makers - which thank goodness is there!  But I am talking about sustainable scale.  These wonderful movements now power some of Montblanc's most beautiful timekeepers.

I miss the differences, the choices.  Everything is beyond industrialized these days.  Almost nobody makes anything from scratch.

So here's my idea, and I think it's a pretty good one -

Relaunch Minerva as a small scale manufacture.  Not as big as Panerai, Montblanc, Cartier, etc. - but not as small as the independents.  Set a goal of a few thousand pieces a year.  Make them honest watches - make a watch that is FOREVER.  Make a watch that will stand the test of time and be handed down from grandparent to grandchild.  This doesn't have to be a wildly expensive proposition - for you or the customer.  Make Minerva relevant as an honest-priced watch the same way that NOMOS and Frederique Constant have.  You have something for the well-heeled, and even the super wealthy.  And I think that is good!  But make something for the more discerning everyman - something on the order of $2000 - $2500.  No crazy features.  Simple hand-wound watches maybe with a date if you're feeling daring.  A good, honest watch.

I realize that my idea is not sexy, but it is romantic.  And it's hard not to be romantic about watches.