The Arsham Droplet

From Hublot -

Courtesy of Hublot

I know that you can't discuss Michelin star restaurants without bringing up molecular gastronomy...

Courtesy of Hublot

But in in truth? There is nothing more frustrating than dropping several hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars only to feel the need to hit In-N-Out on the way home for a Double/Double Animal Style -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

For those of you tuning in from outside of the US West Coast area:

Animal Style is a popular item on In-N-Out's secret menu that can be ordered for burgers, fries, and other menu items. The burger includes the following toppings:
Mustard fried into each patty
Pickles
Chopped grilled onions cooked in the meat juices on the griddle
Extra Thousand Island spread
Lettuce
Toasted bun

 

Me personally? I opt out of the Thousand Island and cheese but double up on the mustard and add raw onion. But hey, that's just me ; )

But back to the matter at hand -

Courtesy of Hublot

Just as fine dining has molecular gastronomy, watch making has, well, this...

Some of my feelings about the business of watch marketing - and the ludicrous nature of what gets covered by the big-dog watch press are summed up quite nicely in this collaborative release. On the one hand? It is cool! No argument from me there. In fact, I would go so far as to say that it is super cool. With that being said, it is something that 99.999999% of the watch buying world can't afford. It's a little like only promoting Porsche and Rolls Royce. I'm no expert, but I am willing to bet that more motorists out there are familiar with farfegnugen as it applies to their VW than some fantasy vehicle they will never even sit in at an auto show...

And here I am conflicted once again. Watch Town needs to blast out the stink every now and then. And in fairness, the Arsham Droplet does just that. It is a beguiling object. Unfortunately, for the 99.999999% of you out there, it remains just that. And that's okay. There is nothing wrong with expensive and exclusive things, don't get me wrong. I just wish that as an industry, Watch Town could accept and understand that times have indeed changed from the the rockstar devil may care spending of the not-so-distant past.

So, if you are in the 00.000001% and have the means (USD $88,000.00 worth), here are the details -

REFERENCE
916.NX.5202.NK

SIZE
73.2 x 52.6 mm

CASE
Shiny Microblasted Titanium with Green Arshm Rubber Bumpers

BEZEL
Shiny Microblasted Titanium

WATER RESISTANCE
30m or 3 ATM

CRYSTAL
Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment

DIAL
Semi-matte varnished, Arsham Green

MOVEMENT

HUB1201 Manufacture MECA-10 manual winding Grey PVD treatment - Luminescent Green Arsham Power Reserve Indicator
POWER RESERVE
240 Hours

ACCESSORIES
NECKLACE & POCKET CHAIN

• Necklace : Full Titanium with Polished Links / Shiny Microblasted Clasp and One-click Tip.
• Pocket Chain : Full Titanium with Polished Links / Shiny Microblasted Carabiner and One-click Tip.

TABLE STAND
Microblasted Titanium / Polished Green Arsham Sphere and Mineral Magnifying Glass.

The P01 Pocket Watch

From Hager Watches -

Courtesy of Hager Watches

As much as I love the P02, I have to say that the P01 is a welcome visceral sucker punch from the team from Hagerstown.

Courtesy of Hager Watches

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

Courtesy of Hager Watches

The first tourbillon pocket watch, HGRP-01, is slightly steampunk, industrial style wearable 42mm modern sapphire glass open faced watch set inside a DLC cushion case with three-hole security screws features a sophisticated skeleton structure, with baton hour markers filled with ecru Super-LumiNova®, that enables distinctive technical aspects of this movement to be seen. 

Courtesy of Hager Watches

The exhibition caseback offers a superb view of the movement framed by a blue stamped guilloché hobnail ring with the Hager logo and a Maryland cross bottony on the crown wheel.  The watch comes with a 10mm brown leather fob.  Stylistically this is similar to the Rolex Oyster pocket watch from 1925/26, Cartier Grand Complication Pocket Watch, Panerai Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica PAM446, Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch and Urwerks 1001. Case size is 42mm X 42mm, water resistant to 3ATM. Currently limited to 10 pieces. 

In The Pocket - The Héritage Minier

From Nivrel -

Courtesy of Nivrel

My first "real" watch was a gold plated Wyler pocket watch that is currently with the watchmaker enjoying a spa vacation (the first service interval it has had in it's 40+ year life), so I've always had a soft spot for non-wrist born timekeepers. But all too often, the modern iterations are either ridiculously expensive, or just plain cheap.

Courtesy of Nivrel

So leave it to Nivrel to offer something right in the Henki Wheelhouse! This is the Héritage Minier, a modern update to a classic pocket watch.

A 45 mm case in - wait for it - SILVER!!! This is the shit that killed Elvis!

The movement is a nice and reliable 6497-1. Apparently watches similar to this were presented to miners with a hammer and pick engraved on the back with the words (if Google Translate is anything to go by) Good Luck.

Courtesy of Nivrel

Best of all is the price - under 850 Euros.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement:

• ETA 6497-1
• 17 jewels, Swiss anchor escapement, 18.000 A/h, 46 hours power reserve when fully wound up
• Swiss Made
• Functions: Indication of hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock

Case:

• Material: Solid sterling silver
• Diameter: 45 mm
• Height: 13 mm
• Case back: Engraved back cover Case

Dial:

• Art: Clous de Paris Guilloche
• Numerals: Black Roman numerals
• Hands: Black Breguet style hands

The Arceau Pocket Aaaaaargh!

 From... Hermès?!?

Courtesy of Hermès

So I'm not gonna' lie, this one was more than a bit of a surprise. Typically Hermès has very beautiful enamel work, but usually with more subdued subjects like ponies.  

Courtesy of Hermès

So, it's a T-Rex. And I have to be honest here sports fans, I am conflicted. For those with shorter memories, you may not recall the flap that blew up regarding exotic (Crocodile and Alligator) leather and how it is frequently not-so-humanely obtained. Such was the level of upset that none other than Jane Birken (yes, that Jane Birken, of whom the Birken Bag was named) asked to be disassociated from it.  Per Wikipedia -

In 2015, Birkin wrote a public letter to Hermès requesting her name be removed from the bag,^[41] stating she wanted the company to "debaptise the Birkin Croco until better practices in line with international norms can be put in place," referring to the cruel methods used to acquire the skins for the bags.^[42] Hermès announced soon afterwards that it had satisfied Birkin with new reassurances on this.^[43]

The choice of what could be considered a (albeit distant) relative of the aforementioned animals as the muse was clearly tongue in cheek, but probably not the most self-aware choice.

For the record, I am the proud and happy owner of an Apple Watch Hermès with 2 Hermès replacement straps which I can assure you, I paid full price for. I am an Hermès fan, and I sincerely hope they've learned from the whole experience. So while this is my opinion (i.e. "Sorry, too soon?" the answer is "yes"), I fully appreciate that I am one voice out there, but this one cut too close to the fossil for me.

Courtesy of Hermès

It is a beautiful, and singularly wonderful timekeeper, and the dial is beautiful in its composition. I truly appreciate the attention to detail and work that has gone into creating it.

For those of you looking for that something different, this could be in your wheelhouse.

Here are the pertinents -

One-of-a-kind creation

MOVEMENT

Manufacture Hermès H1924 movement Mechanical self-winding movement, crafted in Switzerland
Diameter: 30mm

Thickness: 8.89mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon

CASE

Shape/size: Round, 48 mm in diameter
Material: White gold case and cover
Watch glass: Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback Caseback engraved with the inscription “Pièce unique” Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL

White enamel on a white gold base

COVER

“Aaaaargh” marquetry and leather mosaic motif. Grand Feu enamel eye

LEATHER CORD-STRAP

Medium - green alligator leather

Made In America - The Witch City

The plain and simple truth is that at the moment, there are just a couple of fully, totally made in America watches.  And Vortic is one of them.
Now they do have a new release that you can read about at another outlet, but I thought I'd share mine with you today -

I had this one made back in 2017.  It is the Witch City -

It is based on a Waltham pocket watch. Wendy and I had moved to Salem, MA and owing to this a Waltham seemed like the most appropriate basis to build on.

It is good to know that some things are still made here, but moreover it is GREAT to know that history will continue to tick on and on thanks to Vortic.

The Boston

From Vortic

Courtesy of Vortic

Seeing as Tempus Fugit is based here in Boston, this seemed like an appropriate watch to feature today.  This is part of Vortic's American Artisan series.

Fort those unfamiliar, Vortic offers a made in America watch by creating a titanium case via 3D printing technology to offer something that harnesses some leading edge US manufacturing technology.  But it is important to understand that while the team at Vortic is creating a somewhat "new fangled" watch case, the heart of the Vortic Boston is a restored vintage Waltham pocket watch movement.

Courtesy of Vortic

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Watch Specs

• Manufacturer: Vortic Watch Company
• Product Year: 2017
• Warranty: Vortic 2-Year Revolving Warranty
• Watch Dimensions: 
  • Diameter = 46mm
  • Height = 12mm
  • Lug-to-Lug = 55mm
  • Lugs = 22mm
• Case Finish: Raw Titanium
• Crown/Hardware: Knurled Raw
• Crown Location: 3 O'Clock (Hunting)
• Water Resistance: 1 ATM
• Crystals: Anti-Fingerprint Gorilla Glass
• Case Back: Exhibition, Stainless Steel
• Hands: Original Blued Steel
• Strap: Leather

Movement Specs

• Original Manufacturer: Waltham Watch Company
• Jewels: 17j
• Size: 12s
• Function: Manual Wind
• Power Reserve: 36-42 Hours
• Finish: Nickel

The Trans Siberian

We received news of a new brand entering the market place yesterday -
Pramzius.

Courtesy of Pramzius

I  have not yet had the pleasure of seeing one in person, so I am going to leave it the folks at Pramzius to tell the story in their own words -

The Return of the Railroad Pocket Watch – For the Wrist

Pramzius is a new brand launching in 2017 developed by the North American distributors of Vostok-Europe, Sturmanskie and other Eastern European and Russian watch brands. The company is based in Connecticut, USA. Pramzius, which is named for the mythological Baltic Ruler of Time, pulls together the two decades worth of experience the team has in importing and assisting with design of watches from this part of the world. All Pramzius watches will use inspirations from one of the eight countries that border the Baltic Sea.

The first edition is inspired by a Russian railroad pocket watch popular in decades past built by a company that ceased operation in 2007.

The watch is unapologetically big at 48 mm in order to be sized similarly to the inspiration. Instead of a pocket watch movement with a sub dial seconds hand, the watch uses the NH38 open heart movement built by SII, with the open heart displayed where the sub seconds would normally appear. The case back features a large, 3D rendering of the original train that appeared on the inspiration watch.

The watches retail for $459 to $509, however in the launch period there is advance order pricing at www.pramzius.com and there will be a Kickstarter campaign launching in March/April 2017.

Courtesy of Pramzius

Type	Pocket watch for the wrist
Movement	24 Jewel SII NH38 open heart movement. Automatic winding. Can be manually wound.
Tolerance	Main daily rate from -20 to +40 s/day
Power reserve	At least 41 hours
Sub dials	Open heart
Vibrations per Hour	21,600
Crystal	K1 Mineral (optional sapphire model for additional $50)
Luminosity	Super-Luminova
Dial Color	White
Crown	Coin-edge crown inspired by locomotive smoke stack
Bezel	Double layered
Case Material	316L Surgical Grade Stainless Steel
Case Width	48 mm
Strap Material	Bund leather (fully underneath the watch), wide grain screw-on leather and Zulu style nylon strap all included.
Strap Measurement	24 mm
Clasp Type	Buckle
Water Resistance	10 ATM
Other Features	3D rendering of original train from the inspiration pocket watch. Limited edition of no more than 999 pieces per dial. Cherry wood veneer desk stand for watch to allow for alternate use as a clock.

Courtesy of Pramzius

In the Pocket

I get a lot of press releases, some more interesting than others, and this one definitely got my attention.

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

MeisterSinger refers to their new model as the Wallflower.  And while pocket watches can be found both old and new, the fact that this is a one-hand version 

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

It is available in 2 different versions, a white dial and an ivory dial.

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

The watch is manually wound, utilizing the Unitas (ETA) 6498-1.  

It is really quite special.

The Un-Met Relative

Now I know that most of us have an aunt.  And in fairness, I am sure that most of us have really nice aunts.  For the record, my aunt is the best in the world!
                                       

Today my aunt and I had lunch together and she presented me with this wonderful family heirloom.  My understanding is that this was given to my great grandfather back in either 1945 or 1947,
                                                     
                        

This is a key wound pocket watch from the American Watch Co.
The case is silver, and although it is running a bit, I am going to hold off on doing anything too crazy with it (i.e. setting and winding) until I have had it looked at and serviced as my suspicion is that it has not been "opened-up" since the 1940s.

I have done some cursory digging, and will post a much more in-depth update once I have it back from it's "spa" treatment.

Thank you Judy, and thank you Walter who passed it to her to pass to me.                                  
                                                                                                                                                         

Lépine

That's pocket-watch "sunshine"!

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

Frederique Constant has released a new model featuring their new in-house FC-700 calibre

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

Here's the info, straight from the source -

The Frederique Constant Pocket watch is powered by the new in-house FC-700 calibre, a high-performance movement, completely developed and manufactured in the Frederique Constant Ateliers at Plan-les-Ouates. This calibre is added to the 18 in-house movements already available. Hand-wound with a power reserve of 42-hours and 18 jewels, the sapphire case back of the pocket watch, enables the finesse and sophistication of the details of the movement to be observed, such as the perlage and the gold colour rotor. 

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

The movement is housed either in a stainless steel or rose gold plated watchcase of 45mm, which was designed and constructed to fit comfortably in the palm of a hand. The dial of the watch is in the classic Frederique Style with hand-applied roman numerals and black index marks. The highly detailed, eye-catching silver dial of the pocket watch is finished with distinguished guilloche patterns.

Clifton 1830 Pocket Watch

This just in from Baume & Mercier

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

Clifton 1830 Pocket Watch

The 18K red gold Clifton 1830 five-minute repeater pocket watch is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking, inspired by the long line of historic creations the company designed in the 19th century. Transposed with subtly modern flair, it meets all the textbook standards of Swiss watchmaking tradition. It is an outstanding echo from the past as well as a portrait of heritage, a lucky charm commemorating the tradition that subtly traces the transition from one generation to the next. Most importantly, it is also an iconic watch that bears witness to 185 years of the inspiring story of Baume & Mercier through its enduring lines and technical complexity.  Merging classical design and intricate engineering, the remarkable Clifton 1830 five-minute repeater pocket watch is being produced in a numbered limited series of 30 timepieces that hark back to 1830, the year the company was founded. It was designed to stir the hearts of bona fide connoisseurs on a quest for exceptional watchmaking.

In the Pocket

From Hermès - 

Courtesy of 

Hermès 

And for the first time in a VERY LONG TIME I get to wake up to something REALLY  COOL in my in box - THANK YOU Hermès!

Essentially a pocket watch that can be worn as a wrist watch.  Now in fairness several companies out there have tried this concept.  And if I am very, very honest the results have always been half-sassed, ham-fisted efforts that get worn for a day or two then consigned to the closet or dresser drawer.  In going back through their past, Hermès found the perfect solution that offers something so much better than a "clamp on" strap. 

I'm going to let them tell the rest in their own words -

In The Pocket

With the In The Pocket watch, Hermès is reviving a fundamental piece that was to forge its watchmaking destiny already spanning more than a century of history. A family history mingling a love of horses, exceptional leather-making expertise, as well as a perpetually effervescent inventiveness in creating beautiful objects meeting practical needs.

It all began in 1912, when Jacqueline Hermès, still a child at the time, received a gift from her father in the shape of an ingenious “porte-oignon” or pocket-watch holder designed to be secured to the wrist. It had been designed so that the keen young horsewoman could ride without having to attach her watch to her clothing or slip it into her pocket. Testifying to the original Hermès expertise in the field of saddle- and harness-making, this leather strap was designed like those worn by stable lads, surrounding the pocket watch and adopting its shape so as to provide ideal protection. 

Courtesy of 

Hermès 

Reinvented in 2012 under the name “In The Pocket”, this iconic model now returns in a rose gold composition clad in a sophisticated alligator exterior. A pocket-watch that may be transformed at will into a wristwatch, it embodies both the historical leather hand craftsmanship of Hermès and its watchmaking development to the point of becoming a full-fledged Manufacture now in the hands of the seventh generation of the founding family.

Issued in a 178-piece limited edition, the In The Pocket watch is distinguished by its extreme sobriety. The 40 mm diameter of the delicately rounded rose gold case increases to 49 mm when worn on the wrist. Its finely grained silvered dial avoids any superfluous ornamentation so as to provide the clearest, most self-evident expression of time. The baton-type hands sweep over pared-down numerals, while the small seconds ticks round at 3 o’clock, all driven by the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement with a 50-hour power reserve. Crafted in keeping with the finest horological traditions, this refined self-winding mechanism features a circular- grained and snailed mainplate, while its oscillating weight is adorned with the brand’s signature “sprinkling of Hs” motif. 

Courtesy of 

Hermès 

The incredibly complex strap of the “In The Pocket” model calls for lengthy and patient workmanship. Composed of two longer and shorter sections, the plain strap end and the buckle strap end (sanglon and boucleteau in French), it is hand crafted in the leather-making workshops of La Montre Hermès in Switzerland.

These two parts are composed of three layers of leather: alligator; an inner cow grain leather reinforcement ensuring impeccable sturdiness; and a Zermatt calfskin lining.

Courtesy of 

Hermès 

First comes the cutting process, including layer cutting; the hides are soaked and then pressed into a mould. They dry for 10 days before being cut with a pointed tool, layer- cut, sanded down and glued. Each of the parts is then partially sewn; the buckle strap end is perforated to free up the spaces that will reveal the dial and through which the plain strap end and the crown will pass.

The work continues on the table, with the buckle end and the plain strap end being fitted together, marked with a compass, indented and sewn using the saddle- stitching technique.

Courtesy of 

Hermès 

Then comes the finishing, including hammering the stitching, marking a furrow, dyeing and polishing with beeswax. With infinite patience, one operation after another, the artisans at La Montre Hermès thus lovingly create In The Pocket, a tribute to the watchmaking roots of the Maison. 

Here are the specs -

MOVEMENT
Type:

Mechanical self-winding, made in Switzerland. Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement

Diameter:
26 mm (11 1⁄2’’’)
Thickness:
3.7 mm
Power reserve:
50 hours
Frequency:
28,800 vibrations per hour / 4 Hz
Jewelling:
28 jewels
Decoration:
Mainplate with circular-grained and snailed finish, satin-brushed bridges and oscillating weight with “sprinkling of Hs” motif, Hermès Paris engraving
Functions:

Hours, minutes, small seconds

at 3 o’clock


CASE
Shape/dimensions:
Round, 40mm diameter
Material:
750 5N rose gold (approx. 52.8 g)
Glass:
Antiglare sapphire crystal and case back
Water resistance:
3 bar

DIAL
Silvered dial with anthracite transfer

BUCKLE

750 rose gold (approx. 5.2 g) 17 mm pin buckle

750 rose gold (approx. 3 g) snap link

LEATHER
Matt havana alligator strap and cord-strap 

Heirlooms and Evil Step-Mothers

 Now I don't know about your family, but most families have heirlooms.  These paintings, family albums, silverware, china, rings - hey, even watches ; )

My Great Grandfather was a rather interesting fellow.  He married a widow who had several children from a previous marriage.  And he treated all of the children as if they were his own flesh and blood.  He had a beautiful, solid gold pocket watch that was made to order for him, which eventually went to my Grandmother Theo as she was the last remaining child.  The idea, of course, was that when she died, it would go to her son (my father) and it did.  The further idea being that when he died it would go to me - it did not.  It is either sitting in a Memphis area pawnshop or is earmarked for a hillbilly relative of my stepmother.  I suspect that you could buy a decent amount of meth if you sold it, or pay off your IROC Z, or whatever it is that those knuckle-heads will do with it.

Needless to say, this isn't that watch. Sometimes you have to take matters into your own hands, and this is one of those times. This watch started out life as a basic item from Bucherer -stainless steel, white dial with black indices and hands. But I wanted this to be special. Something nobody else would have. And so I turned to the one guy who would understand.

Martin Pauli of Angular Momentum took something pretty average, and created something special.

So for my young nephew Jack Mitchell - play your cards right, and this could be yours ; )

Ultimately, we travel through our lives and we accumulate things and some of them come to have value and importance. Try to remember, we are only temporary custodians, and try to do the right thing.

Happy Birthday Glycine!

So how do you celebrate your birthday when you've just turned 100 years old?

Well, if you're Glycine you create a magnificent set for your fans featuring both a wrist watch and a pocket watch!

Something for… your pocket!

Yes, I know that it is 2014, NOT 1814, or even 1914….

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

But there is something to be said about a beautifully, wonderfully complicated watch for your pocket!

A Pocket Watch from Glycine

With all of the excitement of the Geneva fairs going on - the latest triumphs of micro-mechanics... I woke up this morning thinking of something more basic.  What is a watch?  Something to tell the time with.  This is the F 104 Pocketwatch from Glycine.

Courtesy of Glycine

Just tells the time - what a crazy idea!

Movement
Caliber:	Swiss hand winding movement
Functions:	hours, minutes and small second
Size:	16 1/2"
Jewels:	17
Power Reserve:	46 hours
Hz:	2.5/18.000 vibrations per hour
Finish:	nickel coated, bridges chess board decorated
Case, Dial & Hands
Material:	stainless steel
Diameter:	52mm
Height:	10mm with solid back 10.50mm with see-through back
Finish:	satin
Waterproof:	3 atm
Back:	solid steel screwed / screwed see-through mineral glass
Glass:	K1 mineral
Dial:	black with SL
Hands:	white with SL
Crown:	sticker crown
Special features
dial with inclined ring conceived like a board instrument. small second at 6 o'clock

www.glycine-watch.ch