Shame - It's Actually Possible We Don't Have Any...

So I wanted to follow-up on my post of this morning.  And it seems we have some initial answers. And they are pretty disappointing.

Earlier today, an outlet far more popular than this one had the intestinal fortitude to speak some truth to power and put himself out there -

https://watchilove.com/open-letter-to-the-watch-industry

Dan-Andrei Kluska writes for a much bigger audience, and is sought after by much fancier brands than yours truly ; ). 

It says something about the situation that we find ourselves in, that someone is willing to put himself out there in an effort to help OTHERS, because in truth, there is nothing necessarily "in it" for him. He has my complete and total respect.

As I type this, the invasion continues. Tens of thousands of women, children and their pets desperately trying to get to safety. Think about that, their first concern is their children, the second their pets. I don't get the impression that they are packaging up their watch collections to ensure that they have all of the original boxes ad papers. 

It's a shit-show, and there isn't much that many of us can do, but there are some small things we as journalists, you as fans, and perhaps most importantly, the brands themselves can do. I am writing this with the assumption that on a basic, fundamental level, we can all agree that mindlessly killing innocent people and destroying their homes is maybe not a positive thing.

And before we duck and cover under that familiar "we don't get political" stance, I think that we can agree that the indiscriminate bombing of a helpless civilian population is not political. It is barbaric. Which brings us to the next question, do you really think that a tagline like this is going to work to stimulate Christmas/ Holiday sales:

"When you're working hard to destroy and displace an entire civilian population, every second counts!"

Maybe it's time for all you wonderful watch brands to sack up and take a stand? BP, and Shell have pulled out. Think about that for a minute. When some of the worst corporate citizens on the face of the earth feel that their image will be too tarnished by continuing to do business in Russia, that should tell you something. Adidas has dropped the Russian Football Federation. Adidas has been willing to look the other way for years regarding doping, dubious bidding practices to secure World Cups and Olympic Games as well as the most corrupt organization in all of sport, FIFA. When even Adidas drops you, well that is when you've hit bottom. Ford motor company and Volvo are leaving and the beat goes on. Perhaps the one brand's announcement that should let SWATCH, LVMH, Richemont, Rolex, Patek and everyone else realize that they are potentially catering a pariah party is Harley Davidson.  And this is a BIG deal, as sales to Russia represent a good slice of European sales which combine for over 30% of the global total. When the preferred supplier to outlaw bikers around the world decides that you're "too gangster" even for them?!?  Does this not say something loud and clear? 

And in truth, it's not even about a full-on boycott. What about using your social media accounts to simply say, I don't know, "No More War"?  The Lego company has donated A LOT of money to aid refugees and just announced it. And I think this is the thing that I find so frustrating in this entire situation - helping the helpless of Ukraine does not automatically mean you are blaming the Russian people. Which in truth, is not the point of any boycott or protest. The Russian people are just that, people. From all indications, it seems clear that they do not want this war either. Boycotting Russia does not mean boycotting Russians. And if cutting off watch sales for (hopefully) a few months can help curtail the war and stop this madness? 

Then let it.

Shame - Do We Have Any?

“Are you truly incapable of shame? Is there literally nothing that can shame you?"

US Ambassador Samantha Power in her address to the UN, 2016

I want to make a few points very clear before I wade into this:

1. My firm belief is that it is not necessarily the role of the Fourth and Fifth Estates to be the cheerleaders for watch brands, CEOs or deep pocketed conglomerates. 

2. Every member of the Fourth and Fifth Estates not only has the right to an opinion, they have a responsibility to express it, as opinion, if they feel strongly about it. If it is within journalistic norms to express an affinity for a particular watch in the process of writing a review of it, it is also within those same norms to give the not-so-nice feedback about how the watch turned the reviewer's wrist green. 

Okay, that's out of the way.

Since the Russian invasion of Ukraine, I have had some time to think about what I think is really important. At the moment, it isn't watches. 

We have now reached a  point of no return. With Russia's invasion of a peaceful, sovereign neighbor we should be asking ourselves is this -  What is really important? I feel safe in saying that the mothers and children making their way to the Polish border, separated from their husbands and fathers really do not give two shits about the latest brand partnership. I suspect that currently their most exotic dreams of luxury include a hot (or let's be honest, even a cold) meal and a safe place to sleep. And that is with the knowledge that they may never see their husbands and fathers again. I don't think any amount of champagne or fist class press junkets are going to make me feel okay about that.

Back in the 70s and 80s, there was a lovely (yes, that is sarcasm) little system of governance in South Africa called Apartheid. Many of us actively protested, occupied university offices demanding investment divestment, and boycotted all South African products. This was not intended to punish the South African people. Just as the Olympic ban was not designed to punish the individual people. Many of these things, when taken on the micro level of an individual action were more symbolic gesture than impactful. But a funny thing happened. More and more people came together, raised their voices, and although it took a long time, Apartheid finally fell. While I live under no illusions that my lone action was felt on a macro level, I do like to think that I lived by my principles.

As this pertains to the watch industry, it is time to ask some questions about international social responsibility. For those of us who write about these things, we can chose what we write about. For brands, you can chose who you do business with. My hope, very sincerely, is that any boycott is short-lived because the violence will have stopped and has not resumed. But until it does, until the Russian troops leave Ukraine, until peace is the Standard Operating Policy of the Kremlin, I will stand on my principles. 

Ultimately, a man must have a code. 

Raketa - If I Had To Pick Only One

Now as a quick point of clarification, I did do some freelance work for Raketa previously and as such felt that it was not appropriate to post anything other than "just the facts".  But as they are now a former client, I can finally opine sincerely about my personal feelings. And spoiler alert - they are all positive! 

I did purchase one of the Polar anniversary watches last year, and spoiler alert number 2?  I paid full price. I do like this anniversary take on the Polar very, very much and I truly enjoy wearing it, and it will definitely remain in the Henki personal collection. But the one that I now have my eye on now that I am a "civilian" would be this one -

Courtesy of Raketa

Now a perhaps not so well known Henki factoid - I was obsessed with the Soviet Union for years (late 70s right up until 91/92). And not obsessed in a "spy vs spy"/us vs them dynamic. No, I simply found the differences rather intriguing. I often wondered, what were Soviets really like? I watched Gorky Park endlessly and was gutted when I found out that a lot of it was filmed in Helsinki, Finland. I had unwittingly walked past what stood in for the Moscow Militia headquarters on more than one class break between teaching at the Finnish Parliament building and Nokia ; )  

As a Northern Youth growing up in a tiny, fairly provincial Ohio town, I often imagined traveling to the USSR, and possibly Poland, and other Warsaw Pact countries.  I was perhaps the counter to the main protagonist from Gorky Park - Chief Inspector Arkady Renko:

"I always wanted to meet an American. You are so, so different. Forgive me for staring."

At any rate, I sometimes wonder what watch might Renko have worn?

Courtesy of Raketa

I suspect it might have been this one, the Big Zero.

Hours, minutes and seconds - unapologetically basic, but not simple. 

As most readers will know, Raketa makes their own movements, making them a manufacturer. And when we get down to bang for the buck (or Ruble), it represents a very great value for a (comparatively) very reasonable price. More than that, I honestly think that this is one of the few brands that takes the charm of the past, and successfully reanimates it in a modern, high quality timekeeper.  

I do not think that there is a Raketa retail partner yet in North America, but you can order direct from the source in St. Petersburg. And this, my personal favorite Raketa retails for 750€ within the EU, and 625€ for those of us in North America.

MANUFACTURE 

Manufacture 

Raketa Watch Factory (Saint-Petersburg) 

Brand 

Raketa 

MOVEMENT 

Calibre 

2615 

Functions 

Automatic 

Number of jewels 

24 

Testing positions 

4 

Average rate (s/d) 

-10+20 

Average running time (h) 

40 

Frequency/hour 

18.000 / 2.5Hz 

Stopper of self-winding unit activated during manual winding 

Yes 

Decoration 

Laser engraving 

CASE 

Material 

Stainless steel 

Size 

38,8 mm 

Front glass 

Sapphire 

Back glass 

Mineral 

Rotating bezel 

No 

Water resistance 

10 ATM 

Brand 

Raketa 

Gender 

Unisex 

STRAP 

Material 

Genuine leather 

Width 

20 mm

The Trans Siberian

We received news of a new brand entering the market place yesterday -
Pramzius.

Courtesy of Pramzius

I  have not yet had the pleasure of seeing one in person, so I am going to leave it the folks at Pramzius to tell the story in their own words -

The Return of the Railroad Pocket Watch – For the Wrist

Pramzius is a new brand launching in 2017 developed by the North American distributors of Vostok-Europe, Sturmanskie and other Eastern European and Russian watch brands. The company is based in Connecticut, USA. Pramzius, which is named for the mythological Baltic Ruler of Time, pulls together the two decades worth of experience the team has in importing and assisting with design of watches from this part of the world. All Pramzius watches will use inspirations from one of the eight countries that border the Baltic Sea.

The first edition is inspired by a Russian railroad pocket watch popular in decades past built by a company that ceased operation in 2007.

The watch is unapologetically big at 48 mm in order to be sized similarly to the inspiration. Instead of a pocket watch movement with a sub dial seconds hand, the watch uses the NH38 open heart movement built by SII, with the open heart displayed where the sub seconds would normally appear. The case back features a large, 3D rendering of the original train that appeared on the inspiration watch.

The watches retail for $459 to $509, however in the launch period there is advance order pricing at www.pramzius.com and there will be a Kickstarter campaign launching in March/April 2017.

Courtesy of Pramzius

Type	Pocket watch for the wrist
Movement	24 Jewel SII NH38 open heart movement. Automatic winding. Can be manually wound.
Tolerance	Main daily rate from -20 to +40 s/day
Power reserve	At least 41 hours
Sub dials	Open heart
Vibrations per Hour	21,600
Crystal	K1 Mineral (optional sapphire model for additional $50)
Luminosity	Super-Luminova
Dial Color	White
Crown	Coin-edge crown inspired by locomotive smoke stack
Bezel	Double layered
Case Material	316L Surgical Grade Stainless Steel
Case Width	48 mm
Strap Material	Bund leather (fully underneath the watch), wide grain screw-on leather and Zulu style nylon strap all included.
Strap Measurement	24 mm
Clasp Type	Buckle
Water Resistance	10 ATM
Other Features	3D rendering of original train from the inspiration pocket watch. Limited edition of no more than 999 pieces per dial. Cherry wood veneer desk stand for watch to allow for alternate use as a clock.

Courtesy of Pramzius

The Company you Keep - Hublot and FIFA

Hublot today proudly unveiled their "countdown clock" in downtown Moscow.

Courtesy of Hublot

In what must be considered by many as one of the worst-timed PR events of all time, let me share with you some recent FIFA and geopolitical news -

An Open Letter to OMEGA

Dear OMEGA,

Long-time fan, first-time writer.
I wanted to first start out by letting you know how much I respect you! You are perhaps THE MOST exciting and innovative watch brand out there. The Seamaster, the Speedmaster and the Constellation are icons of the watch world. You have constantly challenged the status quo with new ideas, developments and improvements. The Co-Axial Escapement that George Daniels created, and you brought to the masses was, and is (to my way of thinking at least) the top of the mountain when it comes to achievements.


And you do a LOT of good! Planet Ocean, GoodPlanet, and my personal favorite - Orbis! You have proven again and again that true corporate citizenship is a virtue, not a "necessary evil".

But here is where I have to ask you an awkward, difficult question. Please don't be offended. Are you really, REALLY sure that you want to be a full-on sponsor of the Sochi Olympics? I want to be very clear, that whatever Russia decides to have as their national/internal policy, it is not up to me, or you or anyone else to try and impose our belief system on them. And I believe in the right of EVERY country to have and excercise self-determination.

And that is why I am writing this letter to you, not to Russia. I live in the US where only just recently the Supreme Court decided that same-sex marriage was okay - so I am making absolutely NO CLAIMS of moral superiority!

Having said that, I believe that the Olympic movement is supposed to help bring the world together - not drive it apart. So, some food for thought from a proud and loyal OMEGA customer and fan!

Sincerely,

James Henderson

CORUM opens its subsidiary in Russia

Montres CORUM announces the new organization of an area with a strong growth potential. In order to give the market all the attention it deserves, Antonio Calce – Corum CEO and partner – has appointed Davide Montagna as Brand Manager for Russia.

Courtesy of Corum

Montres CORUM announces the new organization of an area with a strong growth potential. In order to give the market all the attention it deserves, Antonio Calce – Corum CEO and partner – has appointed Davide Montagna as Brand Manager for Russia.

Through the last years, Corum has been moving fast, recapturing legitimacy, in order to reposition the brand back in its rightful place at the forefront of the Swiss watch industry. Corum has made considerable investments and equipped itself with the means to grow in terms of structural organization, product development and distribution.

Based on its determination to build a presence on a long-term basis, Corum opened a new subsidiary exclusively dedicated to this market by appointing Davide Montagna as Brand Manager as of January 1st 2013. Through successfully developing the business of several high-end watch brands in Russia for more than ten years, Davide Montagna has gained a comprehensive view and authentic experience of the Russian market. He is entrusted with the mission to strengthen brand awareness and to develop Corum’s visibility and sales in Russia significantly. He has to build up a highly qualitative distribution network, as the strength of the brand on the Russian market influences significantly the European and worldwide sales.

Mr Antonio Calce – Corum CEO and partner – declared: “I am really proud to have Davide Montagna on our team to manage the Russian market. He has a great sensitivity to luxury and a thorough understanding of the Russian culture. His professional experience there has proven his ability to create value as well as his perfect knowledge of the brand management strategies. It is a major step for a watch brand to manage distribution directly in Russia.” 



Address:
CORUM RUS
32/1, ul. Bakhrushina 
115054, Moscow 
info@corumwatches.ru 
Tel: +7-495-221 87 85 
Fax: +7-495-221 87 84 

The Vostok-Europe Gaz-Limo Quartz Chronograph - a week in

I've now had a week to spend with the Vostok-Europe Gaz-Limo Quartz Chronograph and it has been a great seven days!


More than anything else this week - the key word has been "wearability"!  This is one of the MOST comfortable watches I've had on in some time.  

It's a 43 mm watch, but it does not "swamp" your wrist with its size.  As you can see - the lug ends neatly stop at the edge of my wrist.  My wrist is about 7.5 inches so you get a general idea of scale here.


The strap is profoundly comfortable.  This is a very nice "surprise" for a watch in this price category.  Usually you are stuck with something scratchy or frail.  Not so here - soft, yet durable leather.  The 22 mm lug width strikes just the right balance. 

And as always, it's the little things.  The finishing work on the clasp is a very nice touch.

All of these element combine for a very comfortable watch that feels "present" but not "oppressive".  Substantial - but not unreasonable.  

The Vostok-Europe Gaz-Limo Quartz Chronograph OS22/5611131 a few days in

Okay, I've had a few days to get acquainted with my new friend, and I must say - Spaceba Vostok-Europe!

More than anything else, I am really struck by the finish of this watch.  Let's be very clear, Vostok-Europe is not in the upper-echelons in terms of price.  But having said that, I must say that the finish and attention to detail on the case is really something quite impressive.

And at: 179,00 €  

it is certainly at a price point that most people could afford.  The fit and feel of the watch so far have
been top-notch.  For a less-expensive, quartz piece you might be expecting something that feels light-weight or unsubstantial.  Not so with the  Gaz-Limo Quartz Chronograph!  It sits very well on the wrist and its presence is truly felt on the wrist.  Not overly heavy, but there.

And before I go any further, a big shout-out to the nice folks at  who sent the watch for review!

Vostok europe

So far, the chronograph functions are working flawlessly.   And the finish on the buttons is as good as the case -

More tomorrow - stay tuned!