The Saxon One M in Midnight Grey

From Tutima -

Courtesy of Tutima

This was one of Tutima's novelties at BaselWorld this year.  Like its previous stable mates, the case measures 40 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel.  The functions are hours, minutes, seconds and date.  The movement is Tutima's caliber 330 (self-winding).  Water resistant to 10 atmospheres with a display back.  It is available with either the stainless bracelet (above), or a brown leather strap.

Courtesy of Tutima

The Sexiness of Consistency - Tutima

With every watch fair, there is a perceived need to put something wild, crazy and different out there.  And if recent history is anything to go by, those really cool new things will more often than not wind up in the grey and soft grey market.  

So it was actually quite refreshing to spend some time at the Tutima booth.  Yes, Tutima had some new models (which I'll be sharing later), but the big message that I received was that Tutima continues to do well because they have a focused owner and dedicated team that are not driven by share holders.  Therefore, they can make informed, intelligent, SANE decisions as to how to manage their watch brand.  When asked how many pieces they make per year, a quick answer might be - enough.  That is not intended to be sarcastic.  Essentially, it means that they have a good handle on their market, and continue to rationally forecast what their production needs to be in order to satisfy their customers.  And it is an approach that other brands might want to consider ; )

The Shit That Killed Elvis 11 / 12

Now full disclosure - I did get to handle this little beauty at BaselWorld, but my best efforts to get one to review were for nought, so this is very much a sensory look & feel vote without any real analysis of how good it is on a daily basis.  But I can say in all honesty, it is a beautiful watch.  It is extremely well-made and gave a pleasing presence on the wrist.

This is the M2 Seven Seas 6151-04 from Tutima -

Courtesy of Tutima

And here are the pertinents -

Movement:
Cal. Tutima 330

Case: 
Solid pearl-blasted titanium

Dial:
Deep blue

Band:
Solid Titanium with folding clasp

Diameter:
44 mm

  

What's Cool at BaselWorld

This year Tutima presented one of my very favorite BaselWorld offerings -

Courtesy of Tutima

This is the M2 Seven Seas.  The funny thing about it is that it is not necessarily anything cutting edge or avante garde.  But it is singularly perfect.  Hours, minutes, seconds, day and date. 

This one is truly special.  More details with specs, pricing, etc. coming your way soon - stay tuned!

Wrapping up the Tutima Grand Flieger Airport Chronograph

Well it has been well over seven days and sadly (for me) the Tutima Grand Flieger Airport Chronograph finally bid me Auf Wiedersehen and returned home last week. I have spent the last seven days collecting my thoughts and now it's time to sum up.

It is ironic that I wrote about a Hanhart a few night because for a fair amount of time these two brands were often compared to one another.  Yes they are both made in Germany and both are known for chronographs and "flieger" / "pilot" watches in particular.  But in all honesty while I had worn a few different modern Hanharts, I had NEVER worn a Tutima except for a few moments at BaselWorld.  And what I am about to say is perhaps a bit strong, but comparing today's Hanhart to today's Tutima is like comparing excrement to cream.  To quote Samuel L. Jackson in Pulp Fiction:
it ain't the same (expletive) ballpark. It ain't the same league, it ain't even the same (expletive) sport.

The watches that Tutima are making are of such a superior quality that it is almost not something that is fair to compare.  But I come to praise Tutima, not to bury Hanhart ; )

So let's get down to it.  

The packaging is actually sensible. It is nice, basic, appropriate.  No massive oaken box that will sit in your closet gathering dust. Just big enough to hold your watch and allow it the presentation it deserves.

So let's start with the dial - clean, clear and legible.  All too often with a 3 register chronograph the "face" of the watch is so crowded and registers so randomly placed that they essentially nullify each other.  Not so with the Grand Flieger Airport Chronograph.  The three sub-dials provide a  30-minute counter and 12-hour counter (top and bottom), as well as the constant 60 second indicator Sweep second counter at 9 o'clock.  The date has been sensibly located on the inner portion of the dial so that it does not impose itself in the 3 o'clock marker - unlike too many other watches.

The dial color has been described as "Velvet black" and I would say that is a fair descriptor.  The hour indices are classic, balanced and were visible day or night.

On to the movement - and this was a wonderful treat!

The movement is designated as the Cal. Tutima 320 per the Tutima web site. It is a self-winding chronograph providing hours, minutes, seconds and date. The center counter is a constant sweep with 30 minute and 12 hour counters at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock respectively.

The time keeping was very good, with a slight deviation of approximately 18 seconds over a 48 hour period. Otherwise it was spot on.   Aesthetically the movement is beautiful.  The rotor is finished in antique grey, and adorned with a gold Tutima seal.

The movement boasts 25 jewels and 44 hours of power reserve.

The case is well proportioned and the finish work is clean and precise.  

It measures 43 mm in diameter and is an appropriate size - not overwhelming, but also not too small. To quote that other well known watch fan - it is "just right". The case is water resistant to 20 ATM, has a bidirectional rotating bezel, and a screw-down crown.

The finish is smooth, clean and precise. No rough edges, no nasty "half-done" surfaces. This is a thing of true quality.

The crown is smooth and the setting sequences are precise and function without any hesitation or slipping.

 The strap is a perfect match to the watch.  This is a classic watch, but not a "show pony" - an exotic strap of alligator would be too much.  Black padded leather with white stitching.  It was a wee bit stiff at first but broke in quite nicely.  The deployment clasp is a very nice touch and adds something a little special to an already wonderful watch.

So in case you haven't pieced it together yet, I have to say unreservedly that this is the best chronograph and one of the best watches that I've worn in some time.  Tutima was out of the spotlight for some time, and I think that given what they have been offering lately, that was time well spent.  The new Tutima watches are worth every penny in the asking price.  A beautiful, high-quality watch at a fair price.  

And here is the stat-sheet, straight from Tutima:

Modern Flieger Chronograph for the 21st century.
Movement	Cal. Tutima 320
Case	Stainless steel
Dial	Velvet black
Band	Leather strap with folding clasp
Diameter	43 mm
Height	16 mm Movement details: Automatic movement chronograph. Rotor antique grey with gold seal. 25 jewels. Polished screws. Power reserve when fully wound 44 hours. Functions: Date display. Hour, minute, small second, Chronograph 60-second counter, 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter. Sweep second counter. Officially certified German chronometer according to DIN norm 8319. Case details: Water-resistant 20 atm. Bidirectionally rotating bezel with luminous marking. Domed sapphire crystal anti-reflective on both sides. Screw-in crown. See-through back with sapphire crystal.

7 Days with the Tutima Grand Flieger

7 days with the Tutima Grand Flieger Airport Chronograph -

Begins now!

An Open Letter to David Granger

Dear Mr. Granger,

Long time reader and fan.  Sadly, I write you today with a complaint.  Perhaps it might be illustrative to start at the beginning.  I have followed the Esquire Big Black Book for several years now.  And while I do follow the fashion, I am by understandable inclination, drawn to the commentary on watches.  But it seems more and more that the Big Black Book is in fact a not so subtle kissing of the rings of the usual suspects.  At first I thought it was hopefully something that would evolve.  But year after year, issue after issue it is the same brands.  Now I'm a reasonable guy, but sooner or later you'd think that maybe we might get, I don't know, some actual F*&$@#G content that has been researched?

Now I realize that as a business, a magazine must make money, and the way to do that is through advertising.  But I would also like to think that with the incredible amount of resources and money available to you, you might want to spend some actual time actually researching actual watches to find out what is actually available beyond Richmont, LVMH, Rolex and Patek and AP.  Or maybe I am missing the point?

To be clear, these are all fine watches - but for realsies?  Is your crack team of journalists so apathetic, so lazy, so indifferent that they simply wait for the press kits from the advertisers and phone it in?

To be even clearer, I hope that is not the case.  But what your team is offering as "need to know, cutting edge" watch intel is pathetically thin, poorly researched and lacking in any imagination.  There, I've said it.

As it is perhaps all too easy simply saying what is wrong, allow me to offer some "counter-points" to how you could offer a better researched survey while still maintaining positive relationships with your advertisers.

So for the next few posts allow me to acquaint you with some watches that would interest your readers - and you never know, possibly read to new advertisers!


Today - Tutima

A chronograph, and it is perfect.

Courtesy of Tutima

Your readers would appreciate knowing about this!

Tempting Teutonic Timekeepers

from Tutima!  Sorry, just couldn't resist the alliteration ; )

Courtesy of Tutima

This is the Saxon One Chronograph from Tutima.  I got to try it on in person, and it was fantastic!

The case is different - but that is part of the attraction.  Not another round flieger, but something with a bit of sophistication and presence.

The case is stainless steel and measures 43 mm.  The movement is noted as the Cal. Tutima 521.  A self-winding ti-compax chronograph.

I love the case on this series, but I REALLY love the dial and strap combination of this particularly piece.  The daily color is not grey, or metal, or some other "MANLY-MAN" descriptor.  No, in keeping with the unique elegance of this watch, the color of the dial is known as Opalin anthracite.  I like that!

Water resistant to 20 atmospheres with "integrated" push pieces for the chronograph functions.  This watch is special.

Here are the "pertinents", straight from Tutima -

Movement	Cal. Tutima 521
Case	Stainless steel
Dial	Opalin anthracite
Band	Alligator strap with folding clasp
Diameter	43 mm
Height	15.7 mm

Movement details: Automatic movement chronograph. Rotor antique grey with gold seal. 25 jewels. Polished screws. Power reserve when fully wound 44 hours.

Functions: Date display. Hour, minute, small second. Chronograph 60-second counter, 60-minute counter and 12-hour counter. Sweep second and minute counters. 24-hour display.

Case details: Water-resistant 20 atm. Integrated push-buttons. Bidirectionally rotating bezel with red reference marker. Domed sapphire crystal anti-reflective on both sides. Screw-in crown. See-through back with sapphire crystal.

The M2 Chronograph 6451-02

I know that this is not "new" new, but I still think it is pretty cool!

Courtesy of Tutima

This is the M2 Chronograph 6451-02 from Tutima.

Tutima's New Collection

Before I say anything else, a very big thank you to Tutima USA's Gustavo Calzadilla for his time in sharing some of Tutima's latest creations!  There were many great watches, but I was particularly taken with these two chronographs.

Tutima‘s Hommage Minute Repeater: Deliveries begin!

So let's talk about history - the faux reinterpretation of history - and the GENUINE REAFFIRMATION of history.  And it is the latter of these that comes to mind when I think about the  new pieces from Tutima.  And while I could wax lyrical, they went to the trouble to send something pretty eloquent that tells the whole story - so courtesy of Tutima -

Courtesy of Tutima

Punctually at the beginning of the New Year, the first specimens of this complicated wristwatch with a platinum case were delivered from the Tutima manufacture. Never before had the entire mechanism of a minute repeater been built in Glashütte, so this model attracted tremendous attention when it was unveiled in the summer of 2011 – and it has been eagerly awaited by the world’s watch aficionados ever since. To express gratitude for the patience of the purchasers, the retail price that was quoted at the presentation of this limited-edition wristwatch has been kept unchanged. 

Compared to the version which debuted in 2011, the Hommage Caliber 800 embodies a few small and mostly aesthetically motivated modifications. The most obvious difference is the new rose gold surface on the plates and bridges, which now harmonize better with the material used for the cases of the two models in platinum and rose gold – after all, this watch reveals much of its technical inner life, especially in the version with a skeletonized dial. On the movement side, a connoisseur can admire Tutima’s historical insignia, the cover of the striking mechanism’s barrel (which, like the balance-cock, is now manually decorated with relief engraving), and the mechanism that activates the repeater’s two little hammers. 

Courtesy of Tutima

With the Hommage, Tutima pays homage to the watchmaking town of Glashütte and to its grand horological tradition. The minute repeater marks the return of the brand to the place of its founding and simultaneously heralds the beginning of a completely new collection of Tutima watches, each of which is "Made in Glashütte". These timepieces will be presented at BASELWORLD, the world’s leading trade fair for watches and jewelry, on April 25, 2013. 

And I will be there to share the story with you!