Friday, September 3, 2021
New Ownership for De Bethune - A Deeper Dive
Saturday, March 13, 2021
Making Watches (and Luxury Watches at that) A Little More Human
So a little known Henki factoid -
As an 11 year old Northern Youth, I dabbled at designing football (soccer) shoes that would ideally be useful for young players (i.e. kids with little to no spending money) who worked summer jobs to pay for their soccer registrations and their soccer gear. In my case, this meant shining shoes, washing golf shoes, cleaning the men's locker room and running (in hindsight) very dubious errands for the local captains of industry (a few, who in hindsight, were members of a certain fraternal organization that WAS NOT the Elks). That March (1980 if memory serves) our first game of the spring season was snowed out. So I grabbed a few of my father's many pens and very crudely sketched out a design for a pair of soccer shoes. And being the rather impetuous kid that I was, I mailed them off with a rather sloppily composed letter asking the then mighty Mitre shoe company to consider it.
About a month later, the phone rang (a yellow, wall-mounted rotary dial model from the good folks at GTE) and it was someone at Mitre USA calling all the way from Tennessee. They informed me that they got my design and wanted to send me a pair of Mitre Missile Shoes. How in God's name they got my phone number, I will never know. They asked me my size, which I timidly told them was a size 6 (that's particularly wee) and I remember my father's nearly apoplectic reaction to my not asking for a larger size so that I could get more use out of them. You would have had to know him at the time. He was a great coach with a somewhat short fuse around the house.
The shoes arrived a week later, and I wore them TO DEATH. I did, naturally, grow out of them and all the way through my youth career was a dedicated customer of Mitre, my last pair being the "Pro Model" in high school. I went on to play semi-professional soccer (football) up until I turned 23, when it became clear that my time playing at that competitive level had come and gone. But I still hold Mitre in high regard, and think of their shoes as my constant companion as a teenager dreaming of being the American Michel Platini ; )
And that story immediately came rushing back earlier this week as I was searching for the video from the recent Chronoswiss press presentation. I stumbled upon this video from a little over a year ago (if I read the date stamp correctly). It is a really, really nice story about a father and son and Chronoswiss. For Christmas, the son wanted to make his father something very special, and to that end, using drawings, images, a scalpel, colored pencils and paper, created a paper version of the Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph - his father's dream watch, a Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph -
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
The video speaks for itself, but bravo to Chronoswiss. This was a much needed "warm fuzzy" at a time when we all could really use it.
Wednesday, March 10, 2021
The Open Gear ReSec Big Wave
From Chronoswiss -
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Stainless steel
Number of parts:
17
Case back:
Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal
Diameter:
44 mm
Height:
13.35 mm
Lug width:
22 mm
Finish:
Partly polished, partly with vertical satin finish, onion crown
Bezel:
Polished screw-down bezel with full thread and side knurling with curved, double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Movement
Caliber C.301, automatic
Frequency:
4 Hz ( 28800 A/h )
Power reserve:
Ca. 42
Number of jewels:
33
Finish:
Polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with perlage
Rotor:
Skeletonized blue rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing
Dial
Elaborate 42-part construction on two levels: bottom level hand guillochéd, upper level featuring screwed-on skeletonized train wheel bridges and funnel-like construction for hour display, as well as a retrograde seconds display and cylinder shape Super-LumiNova indexes.
Displays:
Off-centre hours at 12:00 (featuring "open gear" design), central minutes, retrograde seconds at 6:00
Hands:
Lacquered; with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips
Shape:
“Trigono”
Friday, February 26, 2021
The Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Flag
From Chronoswiss -
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
The case is of stainless steel and measures 41 mm in diameter. The movement is listed as the Caliber C.741S.
CASE
Material:
Stainless steel
Number of parts:
23
Case back:
Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal
Diameter:
41 mm
Height:
12.7 mm
Band width:
21 mm
Finish:
Partly polished, partly with satin finish
Bezel:
Polished screw-down bezel with side knurling and full thread. Curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal.
MOVEMENT
Movement:
Caliber C. 741 S, automatic, skeletonized
Frequency:
4 Hz ( 28800 A/h )
Power reserve:
Approx. 46 h
Number of jewels:
25
Skeletonized and CVD-plated blue rotor with Côtes de Genève, ball bearing; polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and base plate with perlage
Rotor:
Skeletonized and rhodium-plated blue rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing
DIAL
Dial material:
Skeletonized, galvanic blue and silver
Displays:
Central hours and minutes, small seconds, central chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, analog date
Design of hands:
Lacquered and curved; minute hand bent by hand
Shape of hands:
"Breguet Losange"
Monday, February 22, 2021
Moonphase Monday - The Lunar Chronograph
From Chronoswiss -
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Material:
Stainless steel
Number of parts:
38
Case back:
Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal
Diameter:
41 mm
Height:
14.8 mm
Band width:
21 mm
Finish:
Partly polished, partly with satin finish
Bezel:
Polished screw-down bezel with side knurling and full thread. Curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal.
Movement
Movement:
Caliber C. 755, automatic
Frequency:
4 Hz (28,800 A/h)
Power reserve:
Approx. 46 hours
Number of jewels:
25
Finish:
Polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with perlage
Rotor:
Skeletonized and rhodium-plated rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing
Dial
Dial material:
Guilloché-decorated, galvanic blue
Displays:
Central hours and minutes, small seconds, central chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, analog date, moon phase
Design of hands:
Lacquered white, minute hand bent by hand
Shape of hands:
"Breguet Losange"
Thursday, October 1, 2020
The Opus Chronograph
From Chronoswiss -
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Case back
Screw-down case back with satin finish
Bezel
Polished screw-down bezel with full thread and side knurling with curved, double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Material
Stainless steel
Diameter 41
Height 12.7
Band width 21
Number of parts 38
Finish
Partly polished, partly with satin finish
Movement
Movement
Caliber C.301, automatic
Finish
Polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with perlage
Frequency
4 Hz (28,800 A/h)
Power reserve
Approx. 46 hours
Number of jewels 25
Rotor
Skeletonized and rhodium-plated blue rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing
Dial
Shape of hands
"Breguet Losange"
Design of hands
Lacquered, curved; minute hand bent by hand
Displays
Central hours and minutes, small seconds, central chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, analog date
Dial material
Solid sterling silver (925), skeletonized, blue
Strap & buckle
Type of buckle
Pin buckle bicolor
Strap material
Louisiana alligator leather
Friday, September 11, 2020
Certified Pre-Owned
From Chronoswiss -
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Saturday, August 1, 2020
The Flying Regulator Open Gear Ocean
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
DISPLAYS:
Off-center hours at 12:00, central minutes, small seconds at 6:00
CASE:
Solid 16-piece, stainless steel case, with satin finish and polished, bezel with partial knurling and curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal, screw- down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal, onion crown, water resistance up to 10 bar, strap holders screwed down with patented Autobloc system
41 mm, height 13.85 mm
MOVEMENT:
Chronoswiss caliber C. 299, automatic, with stop seconds
Diameter:
35.20 mm, impulse-angle 51°
Power reserve:
Approx. 42 hours
Special features:
Skeletonized and CVD coated green rotor, with Côtes de Genève and colimaçon, with ball bearing; polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with colimaçon
DIAL:
Elaborate construction on two levels: bottom level hand-guillochéd, with green CVD coating, upper level featuring screwed-on skeletonized train wheel bridges and funnel-like constructions for hours and seconds display
“Trigono” shape; lacquered; with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips
STRAP:
Hornback crocodile leather, hand-sewn
Friday, July 31, 2020
The Flying Regulator Open Gear Wasp
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Limited to 35 pieces, the case measures 41 mm in diameter and is of stainless steel.
Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -
CH-8753-YEBK
DISPLAYS:
Off-center hours at 12:00, central minutes, small seconds at 6:00
CASE:
Solid 16-piece, stainless steel case, with satin finish and polished, bezel with partial knurling and curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal, screw- down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal, onion crown, water resistance up to 10 bar, strap holders screwed down with patented Autobloc system
41 mm, height 13.85 mm
MOVEMENT:
Chronoswiss caliber C. 299, automatic, with stop seconds
Diameter:
35.20 mm, impulse-angle 51°
Power reserve:
Approx. 42 hours
Special features:
Skeletonized and galvanic black rotor, with Côtes de Genève and colimaçon, with ball bearing; polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with colimaçon
DIAL:
Elaborate construction on two levels: bottom level hand-guillochéd lacquered yellow, upper level featuring screwed-on skeletonized train wheel bridges and funnel-like constructions for hours and seconds display
HANDS:
“Trigono” shape; lacquered; with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips
STRAP:
Hornback crocodile leather, hand-sewn
Saturday, July 18, 2020
The Open Gear ReSec Chocolate
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Displays:
Off-center hours at 12:00, central minutes, retrograde seconds at 6:00
Case:
Solid 17-piece, stainless steel case with brown PVD coating, with satin finish; bezel sand blasted matte with partial knurling and curved, double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal, screw- down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal, onion crown, water resistance up to 10 bar, strap holders screwed down with patented Autobloc system
Measurements:
Ø 44 mm, height 13.35 mm
Movement:
Chronoswiss caliber C. 301, automatic, with stop seconds
Diameter:
Ø 36.50 mm, impulse-angle 51°
Jewels:
33
Balance:
Glucydur, three-legged
Balance spring:
Nivarox 1
Fine Adjustment:
Via Excenter
Shock protection:
Incabloc
Frequency:
4 Hz., 28‘800 A/h (semi-oscillations)
Power reserve:
Approx. 42 hours
Special features:
Skeletonized and galvanic-black-plated, with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing; polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates with perlage
Dial:
Elaborate 42-part construction on two levels: bottom level red varnish, upper level featuring screwed-on skeletonized train wheel bridges and funnel-like construction for hour display, as well as a retrograde seconds display and cylinder shape Super LumiNova indexes
Hands:
“Trigono” shape, especially designed by Chronoswiss; lacquered grey; with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips
Strap:
Calf leather, hand-sewn
Thursday, July 16, 2020
The Flying Grand Regulator Skeleton
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
The case is of stainless steel and measures 44 mm in diameter. The movement is Caliber C.677S, which is manual winding and features a power reserve of 46 hours.
Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -
CASE:
Case back
Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal
Band width
22 mm
Finish
Partly polished, partly with vertical satin finish, onion crown
Material
Stainless steel
Bezel
Polished screw-down bezel with full thread and side knurling with curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal
Number of parts
21
Height
12.48 mm
Diameter
44mm
MOVEMENT:
Frequency
2,5 Hz 18 000 A/H
Number of jewels
17
Power reserve
Approx. 46 h
Movement
Caliber C.677S manual winding
Finish
Pallet, pallet-wheel and screws polished, plate and bridges skeletonized and circular grained; gear-wheels skeletonized screws thermally blued
DIAL:
Displays
Off-centre hours at 12:00, central minutes, small seconds at 6:00
Shape of hands
"Poire Stuart"
Dial material
Sophisticated dial construction on several levels. Skeletonized base, galvanic white, with funnel construction, hour´s scale white varnish. Middle level galvanic white with hand-painted individual number of limitation. Top level galvanic white, screwed on foundation blocks.
Design of hands
Thermaly blued and curved; minute hand bent by hand
STRAP & BUCKLE:
Type of buckle
Folding clasp
Strap material
Louisiana alligator leather "Hornback", hand-sewn
Wednesday, July 15, 2020
Summer Repeat - Embargo, Exclusive, and the Game
Some things never change. Over the past few days I've seen several brands send the new press release to outlet X, and then to the rest of us. And when I ask them why, you get the email equivalent of a Gallic Shrug, in essence - if you don't like it, you can suck it.
Embargo, Exlusive, and the Game
This first ran a while back, but it seems to still be a problem. So I thought I'd reheat it for you -
For A Few Dollars More
So, some interesting watch news came out these past few weeks which you did not, and will not read about here.Brand PR staff as well as press agencies sent press releases under strict embargo. They dressed these announcements with sugary phrases like "we really appreciate all of your support" and "we think you're really swell!"
Now what I and many of my colleagues in the fourth and fifth estate have come to discover is that, in fact, the reason for the embargo or intentional delay in sending the press release is because Brand X has, in some instances made an advertising deal with another outlet and part of that advertising deal is not only that Brand X pays a fee to run / promote the brand's item, but they lock down a media black out for everyone else, therefore conveying sense that they are somehow "more in the know", better connected, etc. And of course when you get the release and post it 1, 2 or even 3 days in advance of everyone else, it would be reasonable to assume that you are somehow better informed.
An exclusive, gentle reader, is the idea that a writer has cultivated a special relationship with a brand, and owing to this, the brand trusts that one writer or outlet to handle their exclusive story or announcement. Now in the "good old days", that meant communication, effort, hard work and sharing on both parts. And if you were a big dog that might also mean that some money might have changed hands - but the idea of an exclusive meant that only one outlet would have the item. And I think that is fair enough. But an exclusive did not mean that the brand or agency would pay for the exclusive advance release, and then send the EXACT SAME RELEASE with the intention of paying one big outlet, and expecting everyone else to "carry the water". It's a bit disingenuous and is guaranteed to engender a less-than warm and fuzzy feeling.
To be VERY CLEAR - this is not a judgment about any outlet and how they go about doing their business. This is very much up to them, and if they can build a better mousetrap? Well more power to them. But to the brand representatives and pr agencies, don't expect the rest of us to wag our tails like little puppies under the dinner table waiting for the scraps to fall onto the floor. We work just as hard, and many of us do it for free. Don't be shocked or surprised when we don't want to roll on our backs and show you our tummies.
Either do an exclusive or don't, but don't half-ass it.
Monday, May 18, 2020
The Regulator Classic
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
CASE
Case back
Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal
Finish
Partly polished, partly with vertical satin finish, onion crown
Bezel
Polished screw-down bezel with full thread and side knurling with curved, double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Material
Stainless steel
Diameter
41
Height
12.7
Lug width
21
MOVEMENT
Movement
Caliber C. 295, automatic
Frequency
4 Hz (28.800 A/h)
Number of jewels
27
Rotor
Engraved black rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing
DIAL
Displays
Off-centre hours at 12:00, central minutes, small seconds at 6:00
Shape of hands
"Trigono"
Dial material
Galvanic grey with matte finish; black scales with circular-graining; interior of hour and second display black with guilloche details
Design of hands
Rhodium-plated and lacquered; with Super-LumiNova inlays
Friday, February 7, 2020
The Regulator Classic Blue Steel
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Case:
44 mm diameter, solid stainless steel case with blue coating PVD, with satin finish and
polished bezel with partial knurling and curved, double coated anti- reflective sapphire crystal, screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal, onion crown, water resistance up to 10 bar, strap holders screwed down with patented Autobloc system
Monday, January 6, 2020
The Regulator Classic
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
I have always been a fan of the "coin edge" finish to the classic Chronoswiss cases, and that nod to the past is there, while a slightly updated dial and hand set keep things in the here and now.
The Case measures 40 mm and is of stainless steel. The movement is self-winding, designated as the Caliber C. 291 Automatic with a power reserve listed at 38 hours.
Monday, December 2, 2019
What I'd Buy Myself
But despite what some of my peers would have you believe, I am not Krampus, the Grinch or Scrooge. So I thought, rather than serve up what gets forwarded to me, I'd do the digging and let you know what I personally would buy for myself.
First up would be the Chronoswiss Chronograph Skeleton.
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Chronoswiss is a brand that I have a lot of time for. John Keil of Watch Gauge fame put in some serious work for them, and the current team is a nice bunch as well. Moreover? They aren't trying to be anyone other than themselves.
So that's the first up. Stay tuned!
Monday, November 18, 2019
The Regulator Classic Carbon Racer
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Off-centre hours at 12:00, central minutes, small seconds at 6:00
Case:
Measurements:
Ø 41 mm, height 12.7 mm
Movement:
Chronoswiss caliber C. 295, automatic, with stop seconds
Diameter:
Ø 25.6 mm (ca. 11 1/2 ́ ́ ́), impulse-angle 51°
Height:
4.35 mm
27
Balance:
Glucydur, three-legged
Balance spring:
Nivarox 1
Fine Adjustment:
Via Excenter
Shock Protection:
Incabloc
Frequency:
4 Hz., 28‘800 A/h (semi-oscillations)
Power reserve:
Approximately 42 hours
Special features:
Engraved, rhodium-plated rotor, with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing;
Dial:
Carbon dial, scales with circular-graining, interior of hour with guilloche details, skeletonized small seconds display
Hands:
New shape “Trigono”; rhodium-plated or lacquered; with Super-LumiNova inlays
Strap:
Stainless steel bracelet, or rubber strap
Thursday, July 11, 2019
The Répétition à quarts Manufacture
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
Case
Reference CH-1641R
Case material 18-karat red gold
Case back Screw-down case back with satin finish
Diameter in mm 40
Height in mm 13.70
Finish Partly polished, partly with satin finish
Bezel Polished screw-down bezel and full thread
Caliber/Movement
Caliber Manufacture caliber C. 126, automatic
Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 A/h)
Power reserve in hours Approx. 35
Number of jewels 38
Dial material Solid sterling silver (925), lacquered
Display/s Central hours and minutes, small seconds at 6:00
Design of hands Thermally blued, hand-finished steel hands
Shape of hands Breguet Conique Squelette
Strap & buckle
Strap material Louisiana crocodile leather
Type of buckle Pin buckle or folding clasp
Characteristics
Water resistance in atm 3 (30 m)
Special exclusive strike train with two gongs and an all-or-nothing security mechanism
Thursday, June 27, 2019
The Regulator Classic
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |
CASEe
| Reference | CH-8773-GRBK |
| Case material | Stainless steel |
| Case back | Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal |
| Diameter in mm | 41 |
| Height in mm | 12.7 |
| Finish | Partly polished, partly with vertical satin finish, onion crown |
| Bezel | Polished screw-down bezel with full thread and side knurling with curved, double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal |
| Caliber | Caliber C. 295, automatic |
| Frequency | 4 Hz (28.800 A/h) |
| Power reserve in hours | 42 |
| Number of jewels | 27 |
| Dial Dial material | Galvanic grey with matte finish; black scales with circular-graining; interior of hour and second display black with guilloche details |
| Display/s | Off-centre hours at 12:00, central minutes, small seconds at 6:00 |
| Design of hands | Rhodium-plated and lacquered; with Super-LumiNova inlays |
| Shape of hand | "Trigono"ap & buckle |
| Strap & Buckle Strap material | Stainless steel |
| Type of buckle | Folding clasp |
| Characteristics Water resistance | 10 bar( 100m ) |
| Special | High end stainless steel bracelet in new design |
Wednesday, June 12, 2019
The Flying Grand Regulator Skeleton
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| Courtesy of Chronoswiss |























