Showing posts with label De Bethune. Show all posts
Showing posts with label De Bethune. Show all posts

Saturday, October 10, 2026

Weird Wild Stuff...

Okay, in fairness, I don't claim to be the smartest guy in the room. And no, it's not like LVMH, Swatch Group, or Richemont have me shortlisted for a leadership role. But with that said I nearly spit out my coffee onto the screen of my not-so-new laptop. I don't claim to have intimate knowledge of the worth of things in Watch Town, but I do know a little bit. And although my high school geometry teacher was convinced that academically I represented the scholastic equivalent of the sunk cost trap, I can add and subtract.

So that is why it was more than a bit of a head scratcher to read the crowing coming from parts Swiss about the eminent triumphant, phoenix- from-the-flames turnaround, love-story triumph of Ebel version 3.0

As we say in Salem, MA - "Witch, please..."

As we're close to Thanksgiving (at least north of the lower 48), let's talk turkey! Ebel has gone through more than a few iterations:
  • 1994 the original found family sold to Investcorp.
  • 1999 LVMH buys Ebel
  • 2003 Movado buys Ebel from LVMH for, I believe, $62.2 million yankee greenbacks - this also included Le Courbusier's  La Villa Turque, a house I have walked past more times than I have fingers and toes.
  • 2026 Movado goes on the block again and this time is picked up by a consortium which includes Chanel and F.P. Journe (among others) who will control 95%, with the price being $66.5 million, meaning that the part retained by Movado is valued at $3.325 million, meaning a total value of just south of $70 million ($69 and some change) if my math is right. The big question is - who gets to live in the house ; )
But all of this begs a bigger question. And I will call upon that other great commentator on the watch business, The Queen of Soul, Miss Aretha Franklin: "Who's Zoomin' Who?"

If we compare the two most recent sales prices, the value of the brand has only risen $7.3 million or a little over 10%. But when we adjust for inflation, that original sale was worth a little south of $113,000 today (thank you CPI Inflation Calculator). And yet it is being sold for dramatically less when you factor in that inflation.

So while the folks at Movado are, in principal, taking a hit on this, when you take into account exactly how much they have going on globally, and you factor in how much Ebel has struggled - let's be honest about this, this is actually a very good deal for Movado group. They offload what can only be described as under performing, and get to hang onto 5% for auld lang syne.

And what of the three musketeers who are now riding in to save Ebel? Chanel has the dollars, F.P. Journe certainly has the horological bona fides, and Pierre Jacques has certainly spent time at the helm with De Bethune. But Ebel is a different animal. The scale and scope are completely different, and it is a brand that sits at a very awkward intersection in terms of pricing & product.

As with anything that happens in Watch Town, there is what the protagonists will tell us, and a lot that is unknown. So as is always the case, we will wait and we will see.

Friday, September 3, 2021

New Ownership for De Bethune - A Deeper Dive

While Couture was rotting on the vine in the Las Vegas sun, and BaselWorld struggles to reinvent itself in what is starting to feel like "Ground Hog Day" regularity, some interesting news dropped that mostly went unnoticed by the watch media at large but that those of us who participate in "Rotisserie League" Fantasy Watch Brand Ownership leagues have discussed at length. And that would be the majority purchase of De Bethune by Watch Box. The basics are that the two principles Pierre Jacques (CEO) and Denis Flageollet (COO and Master Watchmaker) will be staying on the Board of Directors and in their current roles to "ensure continuity".  That is, at least the word from one report found at Timezone -
https://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=7705216&rid=0#msg_7705216

Within the "Watch Box" family resides one Patrik Hoffmann, of late "Mentor" to Chronoswiss in Lucerne and if I've understood correctly, a stake holder to some extent of Watch Box - readers, please feel free to correct/update as needed ; )

So if I were a betting man, at least based on the Timezone report, I would have put my money on the following scenario:
Hoffman tapped to oversee De Bethune, if not right away (if the press announcement is anything to go on), also not in the "too-distant" future. When the words "to ensure continuity" are used, that means that the "retirement clock's" alarm has already been set.

Why?  Well, also curious to relate, Watch Box tapped, Patrik Hoffmann, to give feedback on this story from Robb Report -

So we will wait, and we will see.

But one important, pragmatic question to answer is how are the sales of De Bethune going to be moving forward. Curious to relate, De Bethune has a "pre-owned" section on their website which presently only has 2 pre-owned pieces for sale. Having said that, a quick pop over to Watch Box and you will find several De Bethune watches for sale, at least 4 of which are from 2020 & 2021.

With 30 or so employees, that is a lot of mouths to feed, and still recoup your investment.  So we shall wait, and we will see, but wishing De Bethune Godspeed as they move forward in this new partnership with Watch Box.

Thursday, November 21, 2019

The Dream Watch 6 Table Clock

From De Bethune and Jorg Hysek


Courtesy of DeBethune
Here are the pertinents -

Dream Watch 6
Technical specifications:
Hours, Minutes, Moon phase with a precision with an accuracy of one lunar month: 5.7 seconds, or 1 day / 1225 years - an accuracy 457 times higher than the classical moon phases and ten times higher than the De Bethune standard
Movement
Mechanical movement, manual winding with freewheel without ratchet, caliber 1318-010 180 components
Constant force escapement
Frequency : 18,000 vibrations per hour

Jewelling : 29 rubies 21 micro ball bearings Power reserve: 8 days
Affichage
Spherical hands : mysterious, in mirror-polished titanium
Spherical moon phase indicator in sandblasted steel and mirror-polished flame-blued steel
De Bethune signature concave starry sky in blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with white gold stars yellow gold rings and hour indicators on a blued titanium background

Thursday, November 14, 2019

The DW5 Armilia

From De Bethune -

Courtesy of De Bethune
Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -
Number of parts: 
320
Jewelling: 
32 Jewels
Diameter:
30 mm
Power reserve:
5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin 
barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities:
Silicon annular balance encircled by a 
white gold ring De Bethune Patent (2010)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve. De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Frequency: 
28'800 vibrations per hour
Adornment:
Hand-crafted finishing and decoration


Display
Display:
Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed- blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial:
Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium

Case and strap
Case material: 
Delta shaped in polished rose gold 18K
Case diameter: 
Length 58 mm – width 47 mm
Case thickness: 
16 mm
Crystal:Curved Hard-mineral crystal cut by hand
Case back:
Closed and screwed down case back in black titanium with aperture on balance wheel
Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating

Water resistance: 
3 ATM
Strap:
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle:
Pin in rose gold and buckle in black titanium

Monday, February 8, 2016

The Transfer Window Opens at MCT

It's not every Sunday that you get a press release on "comings and goings" but as it was Super Bowl Sunday I guess it was as good a time as any.  MCT announced a new CEO -

Courtesy of MCT

Pierre Jacques has been appointed the new head of MCT.  And here is where many of us start experiencing what can best be described as mixed emotions.  Students of recent watch history will note that in many ways MCT has not exactly been blessed with luck.  Back in 2010/2011 there was what could politely be referred to as a "crisis of confidence" as the demand of producing and delivering movements for another brand (who if I am not mistaken are back in the poop with another independent watch maker right now), which led to layoffs and ultimately the need for the company to be taken on by another group.  

But time, like life, moves forward.  And If I am honest, I am pleased that someone who did not necessarily come from the obvious stream of watch brand leaders has taken the helm.  Here is the break down from MCT:

Mr Jacques has more than 15 years of strategic and operational experience in the watch industry. He notably co-founded the international watch magazine GMT, directed the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and subsequently the Geneva flagship store of the retail group Les Ambassadeurs, before serving for five years as CEO of the De Bethune brand.

So we wish Mr. Jacques the very best of success.  Let's hope things will now continue to move forward for MCT.




Tuesday, November 3, 2015

The Transfer Window and De Bethune

Pierre Jacques has announced that he will be moving on from his position with De Bethune to pursue other opportunities.
Courtesy of De Bethune
Suffice it to say that this has upset a number of fans and supporters, but with very few exceptions (read "Dear Leader" of certain brands) everyone is eventually replaceable.  Some more easily than others.

For some of us in the fourth and fifth estates this is particularly sad news.  In many ways Pierre Jacques was one of us, having started the watch magazine GMT and sold it before taking the helm at De Bethune.  Five years is a good run, and better than many enjoy these days.

We wish him well and best of success in his future.

Here is the release in its entirety -

Pierre Jacques announces he is leaving De Bethune
 


Today, Pierre Jacques announced that, after five years as CEO of De Bethune, he will be leaving the manufacturer of luxury watches at the end of 2015.

“It has been a great chance and honour to take on the challenge of working for De Bethune”, declared Pierre Jacques. “De Bethune is an amazing manufacturer whose products are renowned worldwide and requested by watch connoisseurs and collectors from all over the world. Founded in 2002, De Bethune creates luxury watches that are nowadays sold by the most prestigious retailers in the world as well as in the Geneva boutique. I’m proud to have contributed to the successful development of the company by working closely with David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, founders of the company, who have always supported me. However, I feel that this chapter of my professional career comes to an end and it is time for me to look at new challenges and horizons”.

Pierre Jacques has more than 15 years of experience in this sector. Before joining De Bethune, one of the leading watch manufacturers, renowned for its technical and artistic creativity, he co-founded the watch magazine GMT and then sold it to Edipresse group in 2007. Pierre Jacques has also been in the board of the Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie and he managed the Geneva branch of the well-known watch retailer and jeweler “Les Ambassadeurs”.

 

Monday, January 20, 2014

Monday, September 23, 2013

De Bethune for Only Watch : DB28 Skybridge MC Platinum

DB28 Skybridge MC in platinum with De Bethune star-studded sky in blued mirror-polished titanium encrusted with white gold and diamond stars representing the sky as seen from Monaco on November 19, 1857. 

Courtesy of De Bethune

Monday, April 22, 2013

De Bethune DB25 Imperial Fountain

This just in from De Bethune -

"There was, in a corner of the world, a wonder of the world; this wonder was called the Summer Palace. Art has two principles, the Idea, which produces European art, and the Chimera, which produces oriental art. The Summer Palace was to chimerical art what the Parthenon is to ideal art. All that can be begotten of the imagination of an almost extra-human people was there. It was not a single, unique work like the Parthenon. It was a kind of enormous model of the chimera, if the chimera can have a model. Imagine some inexpressible construction, something like a lunar building, and you will have the Summer Palace..."
Victor Hugo, in a letter to Captain Butler Hauteville House, November 25th 1861

DB25 Imperial Fountain
Courtesy of De Bethune

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

De Bethune DB16 Tourbillon Regulator

Another something special from De Bethune -



DB16 Tourbillon Regulator

Classical Fine Watchmaking interpreted through a stunning ballet of horological complications finely choreographed by De Bethune.

David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet form a creative tandem that constantly surprises observers, as much by the technical mastery displayed in their timepieces as by their aesthetic genius revealed through countless subtle details.
Coourtesy of De Bethune

The classic De Bethune case with its cone-shaped lugs has been modelled and shaped to house the quintessence of mechanical watchmaking produced using cutting-edge technologies, in keeping with the spirit of the great 18th century master-watchmakers.

The DB16 unites the classic codes of Fine Watchmaking, executed with chronometer-worthy precision stemming from the patents and innovations of the De Bethune research and development laboratory and combined with the skill of the artists and craftsmen exercising their talents within the Manufacture.

The contemporary architecture of DB2509 calibre is built around a 30” tourbillon in silicon and titanium, beating at a rate of 36,000 vph, one of the fastest and lightest in the watch industry, comprising 64 parts weighing a total 0.18 grams. This technical feat creates a strong contrast with the jumping seconds mechanism composed of a twin lever with four pallets driving two gold wheels marking off time with an unmistakable air of distinction. This movement is also equipped with a power indicator, a seconds indication, and a retrograde moon-phase indicator that facilitates setting the moon to the exact date.
Courtesy of De Bethune
Hidden on the back of the watch, this masterpiece surprises devotees of subtlety by leaving room for a classically understated dial on which the perpetual calendar and moon-phase displays are enhanced by the Manufacture’s characteristic silver-toned guilloché pattern. Enthralled by the soft, steady beat of the jumping seconds, connoisseurs will sense the very core of horological wonderment as they experience a unique form of ultimate and uncompromising beauty.


DB16 Tourbillon Regulator Technical description

Functions:
hours – minutes – central jumping seconds – date at 6 o’clock – perpetual calendar indicating the day at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock – spherical moon-phase and leap-year indication at 12 o’clock – tourbillon with 30-second indication – power indication – age of the moon indication

Movement:
mechanical hand-wound
DB2509 calibre

Power reserve:
4 days

Case:
distinctive shape, pink gold – diameter 43 mm (thickness 13.13 mm)

Attachments:
cone-shaped lugs

Back:
transparent – De Bethune Tourbillon 30” silicon/titanium 36,00 vph – central jumping seconds mechanism – retrograde age of the moon indicator – power-reserve indicator

Display
Dial: silver-toned, sunburst guilloché motif, with apertures indicating the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock – 6 o’clock dial indicating the day of the month

De Bethune star-studded sky in flame-blued steel encrusted with gold stars, featuring spherical moon-phase indicator in platinum and flame-blued steel at 12 o’clock

Hands:
curved, in hand-polished and flame-blued steel

Strap:
extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle

DB2509 calibre
Movement:
mechanical hand-wound

Functions:
hours – minutes – central jumping seconds – date at 6 o’clock – perpetual calendar indicating the day at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock – spherical moon-phase and leap-year indication at 12 o’clock

Power indication at 6 o’clock – tourbillon with 30-second indication – age of the moon indication

Diameter 30 mm – 330 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – Côtes De Bethune

Self-regulating twin barrel*

Silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance-spring with flat end curve*

De Bethune 30” silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph*

Central jumping seconds*

Silicon escape wheel*

Spherical moon-phase indication*

Retrograde age of the moon indication*

Jewelling:
46 jewels

Frequency:
36,000 vibrations per hour

Power reserve:
4 days

* Manufacture De Bethune innovations and registered patents

Monday, January 17, 2011

De Bethune DB25T Regulator Tourbillon

This just in from De Bethune - De Bethune DB25T Regulator Tourbillon

                
                                       www.debethune.ch

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

De Bethune DB28

De Bethune DB28
This just in from De Bethune -        


DB28

Spherical moon, blued steel, silicon/palladium balance wheel, triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system and “floating lugs”… De Bethune is revisiting its classics and reasserting its identity codes through the DB28, a strongly identifiable timepiece endowed with the signature House style features and conveying its resolutely avant-garde vision of the watchmaking art!

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Pierre Jacques appointed CEO of De Bethune

Pierre Jacques appointed CEO of De Bethune



Mr. David Zanetta, President of the Board of Directors and his co-founder, Mr. Denis Flageollet, Director of Production, are delighted to announce the appointment of Mr. Pierre Jacques as Chief Executive Officer of De Bethune.

Mr. Pierre Jacques will officially take up his responsibilities within the company as of March 1st 2011. He holds a Master's Degree in International Relations and in 2000 co-founded the famous GMT specialised magazine that has since become an international reference publication in the field of fine watchmaking. Since January 2010, he had been serving as Branch Manager of Les Ambassadeurs Genève, and also headed the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix as director of the organising company.

Commenting on the appointment, Mr. David Zanetta said: "The arrival of Mr. Pierre Jacques marks a new stage in De Bethune's international development".



www.debethune.ch