Just When I Thought I'd Bought My Last Watch...

Stepan Sarpaneva and S.U.F. Helsinki drag me back in! 

Courtesy of S.U.F. Helsinki

Okay, as someone who lived and worked in Finland for four years, I can tell you that it is a special place. And it has given birth to some very special watch makers. And by my estimation, the most special is Stepan Sarpaneva. And with his S.U.F. Helsinki brand he has harnessed his creativity and channeled it into a more affordable option.

Courtesy of S.U.F. Helsinki

This is the S.U.F. Helsinki X Moomin Bronze. It is pretty near perfect! 

Courtesy of S.U.F. Helsinki

In their own words -

Discover the essence of storytelling through the captivating Tove Jansson Illustration from the book “Moomin and the Comet” protected by the new S.U.F Helsinki Diver's watch case. With three layers of hand-finished dial parts, seven Superluminova colors, Harpoon hands and a "Comet" engraved bronze turning bezel adds a touch of character and charm to this timeless piece.

And I'm inclined to agree ; )

Here are the pertinents, straight from Helsinki -

Available in two versions, each limited to just 30 watches.High-grade stainless steel case from Finnish Outokumpu steel 3 Part Stainless Steel, Moomin diving illustration from the book “Moomin and the Comet” By Tove Jansson, Hand Finished, Hand Painted Swiss (6) Super-Luminova®
Bronze turning Bezel with “Comet” Laser engrawing, hand finished.
Swiss Soprod A10 Calibre - reworked at our workshop. Hand-assembled in the heart of the Finnish capital, at the SarpanevaUhrenFabrik workshop

"This collaboration introduces a unique creation that celebrates craftsmanship, storytelling, and design in a collection of only 60 pieces. This release marks a special moment for both S.U.F Helsinki and Watches of Switzerland as they bring together heritage and modern design, honouring the timeless art of watchmaking. Available in two distinct colour variants—each limited to only 30 pieces—the watch offers a choice between blue or red gold-tone hands."

Only available from Watches Of Switzerland.

SGD 8,930
(Around 6300€)

I've Been Hit by the KAAOS Hammer!

In a good way ; )

In the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit, I have written a bunch about Stepan Sarpaneva. From the time I first pushed my bloggy-wog out into the world, he has always been generous with his time, patient and more than accommodating. His Sarpaneva moon-phase watches have no equal, and I still hold out hope that I can convince him to do a Kalevala themed watch some day ; )

Now a bit about me, I am not fabulously wealthy. I do not see a watch that I fancy, and capriciously grab for my credit card, as much as I might want to. I make considered choices, and I save until I am able to make the purchase. And truth be told, I have not really seen much of anything that has turned my crank. 

Until now.

Courtesy of S.U.F Helsinki

This is the KAAOS KUURA. And to quote that other great commentator on watches, Cosmo Kramer from Seinfeld -

I know, that sounds like a lot of hyperbolic spouting from the most cynical commentator in Watch Town, but I stand by my statement.

Not unlike when chocolate's hyper-collision with peanut butter gave us the Reese's Peanut Butter Cup, the KAAOS field watches have filled a hole in my watch loving self that I did not know existed. I have always loved Stepan Sarpaneva's iconography, in particular his now eponymous moon -

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

And his watches are beyond beautiful. But going back to economics, while his Sarpaneva watches are absolutely worth every Euro (or Finn Marka), they are not necessarily within everyone's reach. Nor should they be ; ) 

But with that said, it is a wonderful thing when something you have obsessed about - a Sarpaneva moon phase watch - is suddenly within your means!

But more importantly, while the Sarpaneva moon and a moon phase indicator are nods to his namesake brand, the KAAOS remains true to the S.U.F ethos and identity. This is not a show-pony. It is a true field watch, something you could wear pretty much anywhere at any time.

Courtesy of S.U.F Helsinki

The KAAOS is available in 3 different dial colors with further options for the moon phase indication color. Purple (Kaarki) above. Black (Hiili) below -

Courtesy of S.U.F Helsinki

And my personal favorite, the white dialed Kuura with blue moon phase indicator -

Courtesy of S.U.F Helsinki

The blue indicator and hands on the white face reminds me of the Finnish flag, and takes me back to four of the happier years my wife and I spent overseas when we lived in Turku and Helsinki in the 90s.

If you are as intrigued as me, here are the pertinents, straight from downtown Helsinki -

TECHNICAL SPECS

Movement
Modified Swiss Soprod A10 Calibre, 11.5 lines, 28800 vph (4 Hz) - in-house phases of the moon complication
Mechanical Automatic winding
Hours, Minutes,Seconds and Phases of the Moon ( 29.5 days )
25 jewels
42 Hours power reserve
Rhodium plated, Perlage & Côtes de Genève Finishing
Every movement has been thoroughly checked, correctly oiled and regulated at our Helsinki Gable factory workshop

Case
Outokumpu Stainless Steel from Finland (SUPRA 316L/4435)
Case size: 38.7 mm
Case thickness: 9.4 mm
Lug to lug length: 46.4 mm
Water-resistant to 10 ATM
Open caseback

Dial
Frosted silver dial
Stepan Sarpaneva Scandi-noir typeform numerals in grey print
‘Railroad’ minutes track in grey print
Painted Superluminova indexes
Three color options for the moon phase indicator, hand painted with Superluminova: White, Blue or Orange
Polished Blued steel hands with Superluminova
Blued steel Lollipop design seconds hand with Superluminova

Strap
Leather: Black - Nordic elk
18mm Sarpaneva stainless steel pin buckle
Delivered with one additional Grassbay strap. Included custom engraved buckle. Made in partnership with our good friends at The Erika's Originals MN™ Strap
Lug width: 20 mm

$5,038.26
With taxes (24%)

$4,063.11 

without taxes.

Back to Basics - the 180

This is the latest from Sarpaneva's sister brand, S.U.F, may I introduce you to the 180.

Courtesy of Sarpaneva/S.U.F Watches

Now as a point of transparency, I am a Stepan Sarpaneva fan.  I like his unique take on things, I like that he speaks his mind (when he speaks), and I truly appreciate his aesthetic sense.  It would be easy to say that it is all in the DNA, and when you come from a famous artistic family that would be an easy conclusion to make.  But dig into his work, or just spend some time shooting the shit and you will come to understand pretty quickly that Mr Sarpaneva is a one-off.  And thank goodness for that!

Now while I write about this stuff, and get to see beautiful things, it is safe to say that as a social worker/English teacher the Sarpaneva collection is something that I will have to admire from afar.  And that is why I was so excited when he came out with the S.U.F collection.  And I'm even more excited about this new series - the 180.  Something cool, "Sarpanevaesque", and priced within reach!  
And it's something new - a field watch.

Courtesy of S.U.F

The case measures 38.7mm and is machined from Finnish steel.  The movement is an automatic Soprod A10.  The 180 is limited to 50 pieces in each color version.  The  price is 2200 euros without taxes (2728 euros including 24% VAT).

While there is nothing wrong with pilot's watches, I have never fantasized about throwing on a bomber jacket, goggles and jumping in a biplane.

shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb

It's just not me.  But a field watch?  Now that's something that appeals.

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

You can have it in a cobalt blue, white and a black dial.  

And my personal favorite?  RED!  But not just any red, this is referred to as cranberry-red “Karpalo” -

Courtesy of S.U.F

While bright red not be everyone's jam, let me give you a personal bit of Henki lore -

Back in the 90s, Wendy and I lived first in Turku, then Helsinki Finland.  Winter was, let's just say, not my thing.  I like ice hockey, I enjoy making a snowman.  But beyond that? It was a challenge to adapt to.  Without realizing it, I took to wearing fairly bright colors during the winter months, and bought an Omega Speedmaster in bright yellow (Schumacher).  I can honestly say that up to that point I was not too fussed about color and full truth be told?  I did not want to stand out.  Was it my own way of keeping a "summer" feeling during a dark couple of months?  Quite possible, or maybe it was my little way of being contrary.  At any rate, had the S.U.F 180 cranberry-red “Karpalo”been around back then?  I would have bought it for sure.

But enough about me, here is the rest of the 180 story straight from the source in Helsinki:

S.U.F performs a flawless about-turn with ‘180’, marching into utilitarian field-watch territory

Sometimes, we all need to stop. To turn 180 degrees and realize how far we’ve come, but also remind ourselves where we’re going. Even S.U.F – a watchmaker driven by the Finnish people’s stoic, honest-to-goodness determination – needs perspective.

The new ‘180’ is precisely that: a stripped-back field watch, whose minimal utility draws on S.U.F’s past while signposting the future. All the while providing new recruits with an unfettered way into the world of ‘proper watches’.

Long-devoted fans of S.U.F will sense echoes of its early model, the Komentaja. But true to form, 180 goes back while moving things on; reimagining classic features with a contemporary cool.

The ‘railway’ minutes track for a start, circling numerals whose Scandi-noir typeform is unique to S.U.F.’s founder Stepan Sarpaneva - the master watchmaker with iconic Finnish design in his blood. 

The traditional ‘lollipop’ seconds hand too, sweeping across a gleaming dial in far-from-traditional colourways. For 180’s launch, these include cranberry-red “Karpalo” -

Courtesy of S.U.F

Liquorice-black “Salmiakki” -

Courtesy of S.U.F

 Cobalt-blue “Taivas” -

Courtesy of S.U.F

And “Kuura”, in a crisp frosty white that Helsinki residents know all too well.

Courtesy of S.U.F

Wherein lies the rub, since the 180 could arguably be the most ‘Finnish’ S.U.F yet. Its high-grade stainless-steel case is machined from domestically forged metal, impregnated with chrome mined near the coast. The straps’ leather even comes from Nordic Elk.

And of course, it’s all painstakingly hand-assembled in the heart of the Finnish capital, at the SarpanevaUhrenFabrik workshop.

Whose postal code also happens to be ‘180’.