Bern to La Chaux-de-Fonds to Zurich and Home

So Bern. I have been through Bern once or twice via train connections, and driven by my friend Rod Hess. With that being said, I was clearly missing out. I had about two hours after breakfast to take in the sights -

There is clearly a lot more to be seen, so next year this is definitely slated for a full day's stay.

And then I got a reminder about just exactly how large and (I gotta' be honest) not consistently logically laid-out a train station Bern is. If you've never started a journey in an SBB station without a ticket (and you do not have a pay account tied to your SBB app) you must do a few things before you get in the carriage:

• Identify the ticket machine - curious to relate? It is not always where you expect it to be.
• Make sure your payment method is going to work. 
• Make sure you have sufficient Swiss Francs and (if necessary) Euro to make your purchase (see above).
• Clearly understand just how far the platform is from the main hub.

So let's examine that last bullet item in a bit more detail. Ordinarily, it is a fairly brief walk from the central hub to any given platform. The one previous experience I've had is the walk "across the border" when arriving into Basel via Mulhouse (France). With that said, I was not prepared for the (literally) 1 + kilometer walk I had to make - and that is FROM the tunnel marked "Biel/Bienne"!

Long story short? I had to sprint at the end to make the train, and truly just made it!

With that said, it was a beautiful day and the ride to Biel/Bienne was smooth, with a quick transfer to La Chaux-de-Fonds -

And a return to visit my friend Kornelia Imesch at ochs und junior -

And I got to check out the settimana junior -

Courtesy of ochs und junior

And in an odd sort of way? This was really coming full-circle for me. Back in 2010 I had walked away from DOXA, realizing that it had become a bit of a dead-end, and I was not going to advance or go any further. I had started writing Tempus Fugit (which is today known as Henki Time), and I stumbled upon ochs und junior via a magazine article that had been forwarded to me. I then connected with Beat Weinmann and got a behind the scenes look at the nascent brand. Fast forward nearly 10 years to the day later, and I was back behind the scenes and got to know the owner Kornelia, the inspiration for the settimana junior - Flori, and got to see how things were moving forward since ochs und junior moved to La Chaux-de-Fonds. So really oj does bookend my start in consulting and media and as I said, it feels as if I've come full circle ; )

After a lovely lunch and a walk around the neighborhood, I was off to Zurich -

I got checked in, found dinner at my favorite Chinese take-out in the old town, got a good night's sleep. The next morning I availed myself of the Ruby Mimi's breakfast - highly recommended by the way, and struck out for a personal errand...a visit to Jenni Uhren, the work address of one Marc Jenni (among others).

After a few wrong turns and a short stroll along a river / canal, I found myself in the right place. I had my eye on two different pieces -

This particualr one I quite like - it's quirky and definitely "of an era", not unlike yours truly ; )

But I had also been admiring this little time machine -

And that is what I ended up with.

And a few words about Marc. The watch business can be a cynical world. As a member of the press, you all too often realize that your relationships with brands and watchmakers can be transactional. I sometimes call them "Weather Vane" friendships, meaning that whether or not some folks have time for you depends upon which way the wind is blowing ; )

But Marc Jenni is something altogether different. I will never forget getting a much coveted invitation to the AHCI dinner during BaselWorld several years back. I have never considered myself an "A List" level invitee, so I reached out to Marc and asked if there had possibly been a mistake, did they really mean to invite me. Marc immediately responded saying that I was absolutely meant to be invited, and that he looked forward to seeing me there! And he could not have been more inviting, more friendly, and more engaging. And I can honestly say after several years of knowing him that he is exactly that nice! For those of you have have the opportunity, he is a friend well met.

Then back to the hotel, packed everything up (including watches this time and double checked), and headed to the station -

And off to the airport, and some "self-care" which my friend Armand Billard reminds me is important not to neglect ; )

As I write this, it is Sunday morning, nearly one month since I got back. A lot has happened. A family member has been diagnosed with a serious medical condition, my job will likely be over by the end of June owing to the political machinations endemic to the city of Lawrence, and in many ways while it feels like the end of some things, it also seems like the start of yet another series of wonderful opportunities, and I am reminded once again that true friendship is something that endures.

Life is fickle and short, embrace it.

Tempus Fugit -

The Heritage 146

From Zenith -

Courtesy of Zenith

With the opening of the SIHH Zenith has made an appearance as well to introduce a new model, the Heritage 146.  It is available in a blue sunray -

Courtesy of Zenith

Or what Zenith is referring to as a "tropical brown" -

Courtesy of Zenith

 Now back before many of you were born, there was such a thing as a man's watch that measured fewer than 40 mm in diameter.  And this new model from Zenith is a fond look back to that time, and as well a look forward.

Courtesy of Zenith

The Heritage 146 measures in at a whopping 38 mm in diameter.  In other words, a quite reasonable diameter.  The original model for which the Heritage 146 draws its inspiration utilized what was known as calibre 146D.  The new model is powered by the El Primero (Calibre 4069), but the aesthetic is undeniably from another time.

We'll get more specifics as they become available.  Stay tuned!

To Be Confirmed...

but it has been mentioned online at Watch U Seek and Business Montres, and spoken about by now hundreds, it seems that Aldo Magada has resigned his position as the head of Zenith.  What the motivations might have been are, of course subject to speculation.  And to repeat, this is news that is yet unconfirmed.  But if the buzz is to be believed, it will be none other than Jean-Claude Biver stepping into the breach and become the shot-caller at Zenith.

In recent times, Zenith has been the red-headed step child of LVMH.  There really is no other way to put it.  Beautiful products, rudderless direction.  A lot of potential, but not a lot of attention paid.

This is the brand that has given us the El Primero and the Elite.  They provided movements to Rolex, Ebel, Concord and others.  And it is said when people lose their jobs be it by their own choice or the invisible push.  But Zenith has a ton of potential.  Let's hope that some of it can be realized.

The Elite Moonphase

From Zenith -

Courtesy of Zenith

As 2016 is not yet over, I did not want to risk putting a jinx on the remaining members of the Rolling Stones, so thought I'd talk about this one instead ; )

In all seriousness, the Rolling Stones El Primero is to fine watch making as Thomas Kinkade is to fine art.  But despite a deeply misguided PR / Marketing department's best (or worst) efforts, Zentih still makes some JAW-DROPPING watches.  And for my money, this is one of them.

Hours, minutes, small off-set seconds, large date and a moonphase.  All housed in a case that measures 40 mm in diameter and is of rose gold, with a sapphire crystal display case back.

This one is right in my wheelhouse.

It might not be super-sexy, but then again, have you looked at Ronnie Wood lately?

Seven Days with the Stowa Partitio

This is a review I've been wanting to get the opportunity to do ever since I started writing the Tempus Fugit Blog.  Stowa is one of those brands that has an incredibly strong following among "those in the know" in the watch world.  And to clear any misunder-standings, doubts, etc.  I purchased this watch directly from Stowa.  That's right, my own money.  This is not a loaner, it was not haggled about on Ebay or some watch sales forum.  I was quoted the price by Stowa, the same as everyone, and I paid it.  I had seen this watch at BaselWorld and I felt confident it would be a "keeper", but in fairness it is easy to get "worked up" during BaselWeek so it is just as well that brands are not allowed to sell watches there.

I can already guess some comments out there -
"But wait a minute...I've never seen ads about them in the watch magazines, who is their ambassador? What movie or tv show have they been placed in?"

If you make your watch buying decisions based on what a pr office is telling you to like, then maybe you are not as familiar with Stowa as your more well-read & informed watch loving brothers and sisters ; )

To put it succinctly, the modern Stowa is one of those unique success stories that has made its reputation (to a large extent) on the strength of positive word of mouth and repeat customers.  If you are looking for a watch connected to a movie star, an aging rock group, a supermodel or a grand prix driver then a Stowa is probably not for you.  If, however,  you are looking for a beautifully timeless, flawlessly functioning wristwatch, if you are not a sheep to be led to the "retail slaughter", then maybe a Stowa is for you.

And those of you familiar with Stowa, it is safe to say that most of you recognize their Pilot, Marine, and Diver's watches, I have always been partial to their more everyday offerings, the Antea, the newly introduced "Back to Bauhaus" and this little bijoux - the Partitio.

This is the Stowa Partitio "Handaufzug" - that's hand-winding to you sir!

First and foremost for me is the dial - which if I'm honest really SHOULD be one of the most important aspects of your watch choice but is all too-often supplanted by "I need a real man's  watch!  55 mm with a 'Bad Ass' bracelet made if 'unobtainium'!" Ever notice how it seems to often be the smallest wrists sporting the bulkiest "tool watches"?

But back to the dial - plain, simple numbers from 1 -12.  A 60 second register surrounds the outer most ring.  Hours, minutes and seconds - that's it!

The hands and the numerals are treated with a wonderfully subtle Superluminova.  This was an interesting, and extremely well informed choice because while it appears to be a simple off-white paint (traditional) in the daylight, it actually glows stronger and brighter than any dive watch I have reviewed in recent memory.  And perhaps I'm going to "date" myself with this next statement as an "old-fart traditionalist", but it seems to merge the desire for night time reading with a classic, timeless look.  The case back is solid - which is as it should be I think.  It speaks to the covenant between watch maker and watch wearer.  I know that what is beating underneath that case back is ETA's 2801 hand winding movement. The Partitio is also available in the self-winding 2824-2, but for me this is a hand-wound watch.  The time keeping was beyond good, with the greatest deviation I noticed being -6 seconds over the week.

The case is of stainless steel, topped with a sapphire crystal.  The case back is secured by six screws.  It measures 37 mm in diameter. I realize that many folks feel that is going to be too small, but in fact the actual length (lug to lug) is 47 mm.  The height is in line with this coming in a little over 10 mm in height.  The sapphire crystal is slightly domed and the perfect balance.  Owing to the total size the watch wears very well and does not seem at all small on the wrist.

The finish work on this watch is first rate.  And I think that this is where Stowa has a lot in common with their German neighbor NOMOS - the attention to detail.  Smooth, clean edges.  And wonderfully decorated with logos on the crown and buckle.  Basic, elegant, tasteful, timeless.

The crown is nice and "grippy".  Very smooth in the winding function and a genuine pleasure to use every morning.
In terms of water resistance, the Partitio is rated to 50 ATM (Atmospheres) or 50 meters.  Although this is deeper than you will go at the local swimming hole, this watch is for dry land ; )

The strap was a very nice surprise.  A very soft leather that did not "crisp up" after a few wearings but rather stayed soft and supple. The buckle matches flawlessly and is smartly finished with the Stowa logo -

But the folks at Stowa know that I am also a man who enjoys a splash of color so they were willing to  sell me an extra strap that is usually earmarked for the Back to Bauhaus collection.

Stowa refers to this color as raspberry, which is very fitting. It made a wonderful pairing with the Partitio and as smart as the watch looks with the black leather strap, I have to admit that the raspberry strap might be what I will choose to pair my new Partitio with for the long term.

So as for Stowa's "brand recognition" among the "great unwashed" I am of mixed emotions.  On the one hand, not nearly as many people know about and appreciate it as I think is justified.  In many ways this watch represents everything that a true watch fan of reasonable but not exorbitant means should wish to own.  This is what NOMOS meant for many people as well, but as they have expanded  (and if I am honest) I think that they have lost sight of that ideal.  

On the other hand, the demand for Stowa watches is BEYOND impressive.  Wait times for a given model can often seem long - several months.  But that is merely testament to how sought after these watches are.  And instead of going "down market" and mass producing a lot of lesser quality watches, the Stowa team have made the commitment to make a smart looking, high quality watch at a price that "mere mortals" might hope to afford.  And ultimately isn't that what the majority of us are looking for?  A beautiful, timeless watch for a fair price?

Me personally, I could care less what watch the cast of the Fantastic Four wore on the "red carpet".  Moreover, the very last thing I'd like is a tongue dangling out at me from the sub-dial of my Zenith El Primero.  And maybe that's just me.  But I don't want a slogan, I don't want an over-priced, indirect connection to a paid endorser who probably wears a different watch when "out of the spotlight".   I want a REAL WATCH.  And that is exactly what the Stowa Partitio is.  Posers need not apply, but true watch fans?  Place your order, and be willing to wait - and do so gladly!  Your patience will be rewarded.

Here are the details: 

 Dimensions 

Diameter:  37.00 mm

Height:  10.80 mm with domed sapphire glas

                9.50 mm case only 

Strap width: 18 mm

Lug-to-Lug size:   46.90 mm

Waterproof:  up to 5 ATM 

Weight:   62gr. (leather strap), about 110 gr. (metal bracelet)

Materiality

Case:  Stainless steel, solid case back

Dial:  white matt, black printed, Superluminova Old Radium

Crystals:  Sapphire crystal, domed

Hands:  polished, nickel-plated with Superluminova Old Radium

Strap:  Leather strap or metal bracelet

Crown:  Stainless steel with STOWA logo

Movement

Caliber:  ETA 2821

Function:  hour, minutes, central second complication

Power Reserve:  approximately 40 hours

Specific features

screwed case back

You can order directly from Stowa at:

www.stowa.de

The Elite Power Reserve

From Zenith.

Courtesy of Zenith

I know that everyone gets excited about the El Primero, but the truth is that the Elite is for my money even better for its elegant restraint.

Courtesy of Zenith

40 mm of stainless steel.  Hours, minutes, off center seconds at 9 o'clock and power reserve at 2.  Date at 6 o'clock.


The movement is Zenith's Elite 685 automatic.  It boasts a power reserve of 50 hours.

I want one!

Some More Boxing Day Leftovers - Zenith

This originally ran over a year ago.  I think a lot of it is still true, and it seemed like a good time to look back -

Why Zenith Matters

Zenith...

I will not speak false flattery here, there was a brief time prior to the current management team at Zenith that really made me scratch my head and wonder.  A wonderful brand had been turned on its head.  In all fairness, the name of Zenith grew incredibly fast, gaining renewed interest here in the US.  But it was done at a great cost.

And then change came about again with the arrival of a new management team who still looked forward, but did not abandon the past.

Think about the company as a whole - this was the sort of place where a watch maker was not merely asked - but ORDERED to literally throw away all of the mechanical movements in his possession.  And instead of following those instructions to the letter, he hid them!  And thank goodness that he did!  Sort of reminds me of the scene in the Red Violin when the violin is hidden during the cultural revolution in China. 

And it seems fitting, and in that spirit that I will share with you perhaps the main reason why Zenith matters - they are in the PEOPLE business.  It just so happens that they make watches.  What do I mean by this?

So a quick homework assignment before you complete reading this post.  Visit this link at watch - u - seek, and read this story - http://forums.watchuseek.com/f457/special-package-switzerland-le-locle-mr-dufour-498563.html

Okay - homework finished?  Welcome back!

I have to say that I am jealous of Mick Mooren, not because of the wonderful interaction he had with Zenith and Mr. Dufour, or his abilities as a budding watch maker.  No, I am truly jealous of his ability to tell a story.  It makes me re-think my chosen profession!


But why this matters?  Let's be honest, there was NOTHING in it for Zenith to do what they did.  It's not like Mick was a customer, but Mr. Dufour and the people at Zenith clearly understand something that many of the the "Big Dogs" seem to have forgotten.  The watch business is not simply about sell-throughs, moving stock, etc.  It is about people, and the relationships that come with them.  That relationship moves beyond the watch itself, and instills a real connection to the watch owner.


I have never owned a Zenith - but now I want one.  Not owing to the history of the movement manufacturing, the legend of the El Primero, or the status.  No, I want a Zenith, because now I have an idea of the sort of people working there, and the sort of person running the company.  I like them.  Don't get me wrong - Zenith is wonderfully innovative, dynamic and historically significant.  But so are a lot of manufacturers.  No, Zenith is in the people business.  And that is why Zenith matters.

New Releases from Hanhart

Hanhart Primus Pilot

Hanhart will have some exciting new takes on the Primus Chronographs and these new models will make their debut at BaselWorld this year.

Above is the Pilot model, and below the Racer.  There is also a new Diver model, but I will have to ask you to visit back to see it.  I know, a bit of a tease!

Hanhart Primus Racer

I will be posting additional photos and details later today and tomorrow.  For now, here is what Hanhart has to say -

 Primus – Pilot, Racer and Diver models in elegant black 

The new models in the Primus collection, which are being launched by Hanhart at Baselworld 2011, are distinguished by their pure, cool style. The Swiss-German watch brand has opted for an elegant black design for its Pilot, Racer and Diver chronographs. 

Hanhart is known for its high-precision, 100% reliable and robust instrument watches for use in the air, on the ground and in the water. 2009 saw the Swiss-German watch brand launch with Primus a collection of mechanical chrono-graph wristwatches which builds on the long standing tradition and expertise of the own-brand watch manufactory and combines this with the latest technology and progressive design. This year, the Pilot, Racer and Diver models are now being introduced with black ADLC-coated cases. 

A contemporary take on tradition 

Reminders of the watch manufacturer’s tradition are deliberately made clearly recognisable on all three models in the Primus collection: one of the brand’s distinctive features, the red button, underlines the relationship between Hanhart’s first pilot’s chronographs, its mechanical stopwatches and the new collection. It has been a distinguishing characteristic of Hanhart watches since 1939 and was previously intended to prevent pilots from unintentionally resetting the stop time. For the models featured in the Primus collection it has been finished with anodised aluminium. The striking fluted bezel with inlaid red marking is also reminiscent of the design of the watch manufacturer’s legendary chronographs. 

WWW.HANHART.COM