Timing...

Unless you have been living under a rock, you have no doubt been following the story of the new Tag Heuer / Kith limited editions. And yes, they are fun watches and have clearly caught the imagination of many. They have also created a bit of controversy as the timing of the release and subsequent coverage in Hodinkee followed so closely on the heels of a "Talking Watches" episode featuring the founder of Kith, Ronnie Fieg and his rather extensive collection of (now vintage, which I guess makes me vintage too)Tag Heuer Formula 1 watches. 

I am sort of so-so on the whole Talking Watches thing. The one with celebrity chef Emeril and his son was sorta' cringeworthy. With that said, this one with Mr. Fieg was quite good. His story about receiving his first Tag Heuer from his mother who worked for Tourneau was very relatable. 

With that said...

Hodinkee's editorial independence was stressed in a disclaimer at the header of the article announcing the new release of the Kith pieces. Again, it raised more than a few eyebrows as it appeared just after the interview with Mr. Fieg.

Don't that put the 'Dink in cowinkidink?

The other complaints are about pricing. And in fairness, the price is more than a tad ambitious for a watch of this composition (quartz, plastic, stainless steel). Well, to each their own, there is little doubt out there that these will sell through quickly.

It seems that watch journalism writ large has become sort of an oxymoron. It's unfortunate, but that seems to be the way it has slid down the slippery slope when retail sleeps in the same bunk as editorial. And, gentle reader, it's not just editorial abutting commerce. It goes deeper. When Watches and Wonders is paying the freight to bring journalists from around the world to cover their pre-programmed event, it is really the business equivalent of tying a pork-chop around your unattractive child's neck to get the dog to play with it. I have no doubt that those of us who got into this writing about watches thing did so out of passion and enthusiasm. I remember a time, way back when, we would all smile and shake hands with sincerity when we met at BaselWorld. Over time that friendly comradery morphed into open antagonism for many. Friendships faded, out and out skull duggery emerged. 

It used to be different, but times can and inevitably must...change.

The Rallychron

From Ollech & Wajs -

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

Editor's Note - James Henderson is the North American Representative for Ollech & Wajs.

This is the latest offering from Ollech & Wajs - the Rallychron.

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs

This new chronograph is of stainless steel, measuring 39.5 mm in diameter.

The movement is Valjoux's 7753 automatic. 

As I am the North American representative, I am providing you with the facts straight from Geneva, no added commentary from yours' truly ; )

The OW Rallychron is a love letter to the golden era of motor racing and the legendary circuits that bore witness to the most memorable moments in the sport’s history. One of the defining features of this era was the sheer diversity of racing circuits and the challenges they presented. From the fast and flowing tracks like Monza and Spa-Francorchamps to the tight and twisty streets of Monaco, each circuit demanded different skills from drivers and teams. The bezel of the Rallychron features hypothetical historic ‘perfect lap’ times for 11 of the world’s most iconic race tracks. It also bares the characteristics of Ollech & Wajs classic competition chronographs and rally timers from the 60s and 70s.

TECHNICAL SPECS

Dimensions

39.5 mm × 15.3 mm

Case

Brushed 316L stainless steel heritage-type chronograph case, screwed back, screw-down crown, twin pushers with 4 gaskets

Date adjusted by special diving pusher at 10 o’clock

Bezel

Black PVD-coated rotating, unidirectional bezel with 11 perfect lap times and tachymetric scale

Crystal

Sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment

Dial

Chequered baton hands with white Super-LumiNova®

Seconds register, 30-minute timer and 12-hour totaliser

Both the main chronograph hand and 30-minute timer hand are tipped with Orange Super-LumiNova®, for maximum visibility.

Water resistance

300 m / 30ATM

Movement

Automatic Valjoux 7753 chronograph OW PRECISION 5, position adjusted, 27 jewels

28,800 bph, with a power reserve of +/- 54 hours

Mainplate: engraved Ollech & Wajs Zurich 1956 and OW-machined rotor

Strap

20 mm black leather racing-style strap, with natural tan underside, handmade in Italy and finished in Switzerland; with a brushed stainless steel thorn buckle, signed ‘OWZ 1956’

M-Heritage bracelet (optional)

20 mm medium gauge, stainless steel mesh bracelet, hand-brushed, reinforced ends, with an OW-engraved thorn buckle

Origin

Handmade in the Swiss Jura

The BR 05 Chrono A523

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This new chronograph is born out of the partnership of Bell & Ross and the Alpine Formula 1 racing team.

It is limited to 500 pieces.

Here are the pertinents -

BR05C-A523-ST/SST---BR05C-A523-ST/SCA

Movement: 

calibre BR-CAL.326. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: 

hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock and date. Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, central chronograph seconds.

Case: 

42 mm wide, 14.25 mm thick. Satin-polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight

Dial: 

black. Applique numerals and indices filled with Super-LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands. Chronograph seconds hand with A-shaped counterweight for Alpine.

Crystal: 

sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 

100 metres.

Strap: 

black and blue calfskin leather or satin-polished steel.

Buckle: 

folding. Satin-polished steel.

Bell & Ross X Alpine F1 Team BR V3-94 A521

This is one of the latest releases from Bell & Ross to help celebrate their partnership with the Alpine F1 Team -

The BR V3-94 A521 -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Here are the pertinents -

Limited Edition of 500 pieces.

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o'clock and date. Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock, central chronograph seconds. Tachymeter scale on the flange.

Case: 43 mm in diameter. Satin-finished and polished steel. Bi-directional rotating steel bezel with anodised black aluminum ring and 60-minute countdown scale. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back.

Dial: black. Applique numerals covered with Super-LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Strap: carbon-effect blue and black calfskin leather or satin-finished and polished steel.

Buckle: folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.

The Robert Kubica Limited Edition

From Oris -

Courtesy of Oris

Limited to 250 pieces, this is a tribute to celebrate the return of the Formula One driver to the paddock following a fairly horrific injury.  So welcome back Mr. Kubica!

Courtesy of Oris

Here are the pertinents, straight from Oris -

Oris Robert Kubica Limited Edition
Ref. No. 01 735 7740 4184 RS Limited to 250 pieces

Case
Material  
Multi-piece stainless steel case
Size  
42.00 mm, 1.654 inches
Top Glass  
Sapphire, flat, anti-reflective coating inside  
Case back  
Stainless steel, screwed, see-through mineral glass, special printings
Operating Devices  
Stainless steel crown
Water Resistance  
10 bar/100 m
Interhorn Width  
24 mm
Movement Number  
Oris Cal. 735, base SW 220-1
Dimensions 
 Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
Functions  
Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, individual date and day windows, instantaneous date and day, date and day corrector, fine timing device and stop- second
Winding  
Automatic winding, with red rotor  
Power-Reserve  
38 hours
Vibrations  
4 Hz (28’800 A/h)
Jewels  
26
Dial Design  
Black dial, black dial ring with printings (dial ring assembled into the case)
Luminous Material  
Indices and hands Super-LumiNova®  
Numerals  
Applied
Strap  
Black rubber strap, stainless steel folding clasp

The BRV2-94 R.S.18

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

In honor of the upcoming French Grand Prix, Bell & Ross are paying tribute to it and their partnership with Renault.

Here are the pertinents -


Movement: 
calibre BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: 
hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o'clock. Date. Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o'clock, central chronograph seconds

Case: 
41 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Steel bezel with anodized black aluminum ring and tachymeter scale. Screw- down crown and push-buttons. Sapphire case-back.

Dial: 
Carbon fiber. Applique Superluminova®-filled numerals. Metal skeletonized Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands

Crystal: 
ultra-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating

Water-resistance: 
100 meters.

Strap: 
satin-polished steel or carbon-effect calfskin.

Buckle: 
folding. Satin-polished steel.

Something REALLY COOL from Tag Heuer!

Courtesy of Tag Heuer

Earlier this afternoon, a press release snuck into my "in"box from Tag Heuer.  It announced a new Tag Heuer co-branded model - the Gulf Special Edition Tag Heuer Formula 1.  I am not going to lie, a first I was somewhat dubious.  All due respect to Mr. Biver and the team at Tag Heuer - I am a wee bit done with all of the partnerships that have been proffered lately.  My bone of contention is that these are, by and large, mechanical and, well, expensive.  

BUT -
to be clear, Tag Heuer has a much longer track record than Yours Truly, and although I was a successful brand manager, my own modest little brand was very nearly still-born.  So my own judgments aside, even if I don't agree with every move, they seem to be doing okay ; )

Courtesy of Tag Heuer

So I was very, very pleasantly surprised to find out that this is truly a watch made for BOTH watch and auto racing fans.  Yes, it is quartz.  You might remember quartz from such watch articles as:

"The Most Accurate Time Measurement Available"

Isn't that appropriate for a piece that pays tribute to time, speed and the race against both?

And best of all, this is priced at a level that will attract new people to Tag Heuer who might have felt that they were previously priced out of the market.

And it will do something else - it will give some of those people their first REAL taste of a cool watch, and perhaps it will kindle a love affair with Tag Heuer, which then in turn will probably lead to the creation of walking, talking ambassadors.  And maybe, just maybe some of those new devotees will then aspire to a more expensive mechanical model?  Stranger things have happened!

So a very hearty (and sincere) congratulations to the team at Tag Heuer!  This might fly in the face of what the "purists" deem as "horology", and fair enough.  Let them poo-poo it.  I think it's bitchin'!  

And I expect a lot of "as yet to be discovered" Tag Heuer ambassadors will agree!

Here are the pertinents -
 

DIAL
Blue dial with Gulf stripes
3 counters for chronograph
Indexes and hour/ minute hands with white superluminova®

CASE
43 mm diameter
Steel case
Aluminum blue tachymeter fixed bezel
Flat sapphire crystal
Black PVD steel screw-down crown
Steel crown protector
Steel screw-down case back
GULF logo special engraving
Water resistance : 200 meters

MOVEMENT
TAG Heuer quartz movement, one of the most reliable and accurate made in Switzerland
Powered by a battery
Regulator (time-measuring device): quartz crystal.
Electrical current that causes the crystal to vibrate very consistently and at a very high frequency (32,768 times per second).
Almost perfect precision (a variation of only a few seconds per month.)

STRAP
Blue calf skin strap with asphalt texture
Brushed steel pin buckle

Bell & Ross Partners with Renault Sport Formula One

An Open Letter to Tag Heuer

Dear Tag Heuer,

First time letter from a long-time fan!  I bought my first Tag Heuer (a red and green F1) in the summer of 1990.  Later that December I was given another stainless steel Tag Heuer when I completed my studies at the University of Oregon.  

I have followed your growth and development with interest and always enjoyed the latest offerings.  In particular, the Carrera and the McQueen Monaco have always been my favorites!

Like any brand, I know that you need to stir things up to keep them fresh, and I appreciate that it is a fine line to walk when courting "edginess".  Your latest brand ambassador (Cara DELEVINGNE)
fits the bill quite well in terms of helping you connect to a younger, emerging market.




But...

The video and print campaign that features a baby lion with the ambassador cuddling and playing with it was perhaps not the best informed choice that your marketing and PR teams could have made.  To put it plainly - the lion cub had to come from somewhere.  Or to put it more basically, mother lions are not really equipped to make the same sort of choices that "stage moms" in the US are.  What this means is that a young lion was taken - not by choice - from its family.   So why is this a big deal?

Well...

The "Wildlife Petting" industry in Africa is a tragic cycle where young lions are taken away from their mothers to "petting zoos" where the cubs are treated like house pets. That is, until they get too old to pet. Then they are off to the wildlife equivalent of Gladiator. Only the lions aren't armed. Wealthy Americans, Europeans and others pay a fee to get within 3 or 4 meters in a fenced in area and blast away at a lion who is now too familiar with people to suspect anything, and certainly unable to evade the hunters or defend itself.  These "brave hunters" then pose for a "selfie" with the dead "canned lion" on Facebook.  

Needless to say, the lions in these situations are going to "crack under pressure".

But I see a great opportunity here - one of your more notable celebrity ambassadors is deeply involved in wildlife conservation.  Mr. DiCaprio could speak far more eloquently than I on the perils of canned lion hunting.  I would encourage you to reach out to him and get some feedback.  You could then work with him, his other "lion loving" friends like Tobey Maguire, who knows, maybe even Bono!  It could be the Product RED of the watch world ; )

I realize that this might feel like unwanted pressure, or criticism for your choices.  That is only human, and this is certainly not the most important thing to take away from the current pr situation you find yourself in.  We praise you when you do something exciting, edgy and cool - and we should.  But please know that a good friend is also one who let's you know when maybe you have made a misstep.

But... I also appreciate and respect that it is your company, and you have to make, and live with your decisions.  

Sincerely,

James Henderson

ARMIN Racing Chronograph

This just in from Armin Strom -

ARMIN Racing Chronograph

In the context of its association with the Marussia Virgin Racing F1 stable, watch
manufacturer, Armin Strom, has the pleasure of presenting the official watch for the
team’s mechanics and development staff. Called the ARMIN Racing Chronograph,
this timekeeper will not go by unnoticed in the paddocks, thanks to its black PVD
titanium case with imposing diameter. The product, with date at 9 o’clock and
components sculpted out of the materials used in racing cars, focuses on the
challenge facing F1 of pushing materials to the limits of their applications. The
circles around the various indications on the dial, highlighted in bright red, serve as a
clear reminder to mechanical sports enthusiasts of the efforts exerted by brake discs
during a Sunday Grand Prix.
The ARMIN Racing Chronograph was developed with a deep concern to achieve
reliability in all tests and devote particular attention to the component finishing and
decoration visible through the case back. This care and a passion for detail have
always constituted the driving force of master watchmaker Armin Strom and his Brand.

TI11-CR.90

Movement 
Mechanical with automatic winding
With chronograph function and date
Rubies: 25
Power reserve: 46 hours

Case 
Titanium, with matt black PVD coating
Sapphire crystal and case back, with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 44.40mm
Total height: 13.85mm
Water-resistant: 50m

Dial
Decorated in the Marussia Virgin F1 colours of black/red/white

Bracelet
High-tech leather or black/red rubber with black PVD coated titanium Ardillon buckle

Price
$8,800 - limited to 400.

For more information on Armin Strom:

Totally Worth It, LLC - 888 TWI 4All (888 894 4255) or 724 263 2286

info@totallyworthit.com - www.TotallyWorthIt.com

Christopher Ward C90 Beckett's

Cornering Quality The Christopher Ward C90 Beckett’s The news that Silverstone will be staging the British Formula 1 Grand Prix for the next 17 years prompted the petrol-heads at Christopher Ward to think of a way to celebrate.  Chris and the design team in Maidenhead disappeared into their studio for a while and came up with what many believe to be their finest design yet.  For anyone who knows about motor racing, ‘Beckett’s’ was an obvious name for a watch that combines precision, power and extraordinary performance.  The Beckett’s complex at Silverstone is one of the most demanding sets of corners on any Formula 1 track in the world.  It also provides heart-stopping views for spectators as cars flick left, then right, and change down two gears, before making a fast right exit reaching speeds of more than 180mph (290kph). Drivers experience close to 3G of lateral force first one way, then the other. The design of the C90 Beckett’s has a subtle retro feel – more Stirling Moss than Lewis Hamilton.  It features a superbly crafted, multi-layered precision dial, incorporating the 45 hour power reserve meter which is the outward expression of the complex Valgranges ETA A07.161 Automatic movement.  The power reserve movement has been specially customised by ETA for the C90.  The watch will appeal to anyone who lives life in the fast lane and demands total commitment to quality.  Cutting corners has never been an option with Beckett’s…

C90 Beckett’s - Power Reserve C90-SKK £699

www.christopherward.co.uk