HM Horses Set
Limited to 28 sets of 2 timepieces
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| Courtesy of Arnold & Son |
Arnold & Son greets the Chinese New Year
with an exquisitely crafted limited edition set
Friday, January 31, 2014
Arnold & Son HM Horses Set
Arnold & Son greets the Chinese New Year
with an exquisitely crafted limited edition set
Something for… your pocket!
Yes, I know that it is 2014, NOT 1814, or even 1914….
But there is something to be said about a beautifully, wonderfully complicated watch for your pocket!
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| Courtesy of Audemars Piguet |
Thursday, January 30, 2014
The Prix Solo artgenève - F.P.Journe is awarded to Roman Signer
This just in from F.P. Journe -
It is during the vernissage that the Prix Solo artgenève-F.P.Journe was awarded to the best monographic show presented by an exhibiting gallery. This prize, sponsored by the high horology watchmaker F.P.Journe, was given to Roman Signer represented by the Zürich gallery Häusler Contemporary.
 |
| Courtesy of F.P. Journe |
It is during the vernissage that the Prix Solo artgenève-F.P.Journe was awarded to the best monographic show presented by an exhibiting gallery. This prize, sponsored by the high horology watchmaker F.P.Journe, was given to Roman Signer represented by the Zürich gallery Häusler Contemporary.
JEANRICHARD and Aresenal
For my friend, super-Gunner fan Ozdemir Mamodeally -
This one's for you pal!
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| Courtesy of JEANRICHARD |
Wednesday, January 29, 2014
Historiador Flameante Reserva de Marcha
Something new from Cuervo y Sobrinos -
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| Courtesy of Cuervo y Sobrinos |
The new
ultra-thin Cuervo y Sobrinos
in a
“power reserve” version
Watch Auction for World Cancer Day
This just in from Techne -
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| Courtesy of Techne |
In anticipation of World Cancer Day, Techné is auctioning a brand new Tärnan Oceanographer with serial number 001.
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
The Twenty-8-Eight-Full Moon
This just in from DeWitt -
This is the Twenty-8-Eight-Full Moon
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| Courtesy of DeWitt |
Monday, January 27, 2014
In Memoriam - Raymond Weil
This in from Raymond Weil -
It is with
great sorrow and regret that we announce the passing of Mr. Raymond Weil,
founder and Honorary President of RAYMOND WEIL Genève, maker of Swiss luxury
timepieces. He passed away peacefully at age 87, on January 26, 2014.
Raymond
Weil was a pioneer and entrepreneur in the watchmaking industry. In 1976, in
the middle of the most severe watch industry crisis, Mr. Weil was courageous
enough to found his own company and turned his idea of what Swiss watchmaking
should be into actual timepieces that would bring a new dimension to the
industry. He was the first person to look at watches as a luxurious accessory. His vision was to create high quality watches with
superior design at affordable prices.
Mr.
Weil’s creations were immediately praised by watch enthusiasts, amateurs and
connoisseurs alike and he gradually put together an international network based
on very strong and personal human connections and friendly relationships. Mr.
Weil was an extraordinary man who was kind, affable and above all sincerely
generous. He was a precursor in the international development of the Swiss
watchmaking industry during a key period when this industry needed to be
renewed. He traveled the world and became an exceptional ambassador for the
city of Geneva and for Switzerland. He knew how to create a personal,
professional and most importantly a friendly connection that even today
following generations continue to immortalize and to pursue his approach of the
business.
RAYMOND
WEIL Genève is known to be one of the few watch brands to bear the name of the
founder and still operate as a family business. His son-in-law Olivier Bernheim
is at the helm and two grandsons Elie and Pierre Bernheim are the chief
officers of the company today.
“Raymond Weil was a self-made man. He was my mentor and I learned so
much from him,” says
Olivier Bernheim, President & CEO of RAYMOND WEIL. “His legacy and enthusiasm will live on through our family, his Brand,
its team over the world and all of those who wear the watch that bears his
name.”
Weil
occupied several high positions in various professional organizations
throughout his career: he was President of the Geneva Watchmaker Union,
Vice-President of the Watchmaking Industry Training Centre (CFH), and member of
the Watchmaking Federation (FH) and other employers’ associations. Until 1995,
he was also President of the Exhibitors Committee of the Basel International
Watch and Jewellery Fair.
Other
than watchmaking, Weil’s great loves of life were his family, painting,
aviation and music. He was passionate about classical and lyrical music as well
as about contemporary art.
The Polio Watch - It's Time to Act
I'm a pain in the ass. For most of the PR/Marketing folks in the watch and pen industry this does not come as a surprise.
So therefore it is always a pleasant surprise to see a watch company that makes a sensible, USEFUL donation.
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| Courtesy of Polio Watch |
Sunday, January 26, 2014
You Have to Punch Your Weight
So, with the fate of a few formerly well-known watch firms circling the toilet bowl of temporary inactivity/future insolvency, I find myself reflecting back to the 60s and 70s when things were not quite so vulgar, not quite so inflated. A brand tried, failed, went into receivership and closed. Simple.
Of course, most of us have memorized by heart the ballad of the Swiss watch rescue. And if I am very, very honest about it, that was perhaps the blueprint of how these things should be handled. Unfortunately, things are different now. Now there is ego, there is too much easy money, and there is far too much impatience.
What do I mean? Well, let's take brand X. Brand X has come a cropper not once, not twice, but three times - that we know of. I say that we know of, because in the modern day shell game of watch brands and branding, watch executives and owners of the smaller brands are always looking for the next mark to stroll down the boardwalk and walk into their tent, ready to flush more money down their brand's toilet.
I will never forget hearing about Brand X's marketing approach. They were very cocksure. And it was clear to me that they didn't know what the hell the idea of the brand really was. And now, the entire brand has been turned on its head - management out, distribution (apparently) "deader than Julius Caesar". The collection that was, we were assured by the brand ad nauseum, the epitome of luxury. "And that's why it's worth $10,000!" (Insert smarmy smile here). That was less than four years ago. And now the sound we hear from the brand is the sound of crickets - and no, not the good kind. Those rare, desirable $10,000 horological masterpieces have now found their way to Ebay after efforts to offload them on the grey market didn't work. Ebay, where people who once extolled the virtues of the brand are now flogging the remaining pieces through poorly disguised Ebay stores for 25 - 50 cents on the dollar. Clearly, whoever is offloading these "rare and valuable timepieces" doesn't care if they are helping deal Brand X the death blow, as they are intimately involved with the liquidation. This leaves me with a burning question -
How do you think that makes the person who paid full-pop for that watch feel now?
Probably like a dumb asshole.
So Brand X, and the rest of you watch companies out there reading this - You've Got to Punch Your Weight. Turn down the volume on the Bullshit Machine. And one other thing - Rome (and frankly any decent watch brand) was not built in a day. Show some F^%*+ing patience! Make sure you have enough pocket money to cover yourselves. And maybe you could start by not shooting your wad on flying first class and staying at the most expensive hotels in town when you are essentially in start-up mode? I know, you're important, you deserve it! But I suspect that your investors are not too impressed when they discover how much of THEIR money you have poured into boosting your own egos, and ensuring your comfort. Achieve buy through and SELL THROUGH, then we can talk about "Gordon Gecko" style perks.
Punch Your Weight. When you start having turnover like the Richemont group - THEN you can blow your shareholders money on ridiculous waste like first class travel and brain dead partnerships. And yes, when only four years into the proposition you are having the fire sale to end all fire sales, it is clear that your insistence on a luxurious lifestyle was not supported by your ability to market and sell watches - which was frankly the point of the whole exercise from the get-go.
So as Brand X swirls around the toilet bowl and heads for the sewer, don't worry. The distributors, like any good hustlers, will move onto the next mark. And have no doubt, someone else will be waiting to pump their hard earned money into a Potemkin Village, or watch brand like Brand X. There are two things you can count on -
1. Somebody will always have an ego that outstrips their abilities
2. As Gordon Gecko famously reminds us, a fool and his money are lucky enough to get together in the first place!
Of course, most of us have memorized by heart the ballad of the Swiss watch rescue. And if I am very, very honest about it, that was perhaps the blueprint of how these things should be handled. Unfortunately, things are different now. Now there is ego, there is too much easy money, and there is far too much impatience.
What do I mean? Well, let's take brand X. Brand X has come a cropper not once, not twice, but three times - that we know of. I say that we know of, because in the modern day shell game of watch brands and branding, watch executives and owners of the smaller brands are always looking for the next mark to stroll down the boardwalk and walk into their tent, ready to flush more money down their brand's toilet.
I will never forget hearing about Brand X's marketing approach. They were very cocksure. And it was clear to me that they didn't know what the hell the idea of the brand really was. And now, the entire brand has been turned on its head - management out, distribution (apparently) "deader than Julius Caesar". The collection that was, we were assured by the brand ad nauseum, the epitome of luxury. "And that's why it's worth $10,000!" (Insert smarmy smile here). That was less than four years ago. And now the sound we hear from the brand is the sound of crickets - and no, not the good kind. Those rare, desirable $10,000 horological masterpieces have now found their way to Ebay after efforts to offload them on the grey market didn't work. Ebay, where people who once extolled the virtues of the brand are now flogging the remaining pieces through poorly disguised Ebay stores for 25 - 50 cents on the dollar. Clearly, whoever is offloading these "rare and valuable timepieces" doesn't care if they are helping deal Brand X the death blow, as they are intimately involved with the liquidation. This leaves me with a burning question -
How do you think that makes the person who paid full-pop for that watch feel now?
Probably like a dumb asshole.
So Brand X, and the rest of you watch companies out there reading this - You've Got to Punch Your Weight. Turn down the volume on the Bullshit Machine. And one other thing - Rome (and frankly any decent watch brand) was not built in a day. Show some F^%*+ing patience! Make sure you have enough pocket money to cover yourselves. And maybe you could start by not shooting your wad on flying first class and staying at the most expensive hotels in town when you are essentially in start-up mode? I know, you're important, you deserve it! But I suspect that your investors are not too impressed when they discover how much of THEIR money you have poured into boosting your own egos, and ensuring your comfort. Achieve buy through and SELL THROUGH, then we can talk about "Gordon Gecko" style perks.
Punch Your Weight. When you start having turnover like the Richemont group - THEN you can blow your shareholders money on ridiculous waste like first class travel and brain dead partnerships. And yes, when only four years into the proposition you are having the fire sale to end all fire sales, it is clear that your insistence on a luxurious lifestyle was not supported by your ability to market and sell watches - which was frankly the point of the whole exercise from the get-go.
So as Brand X swirls around the toilet bowl and heads for the sewer, don't worry. The distributors, like any good hustlers, will move onto the next mark. And have no doubt, someone else will be waiting to pump their hard earned money into a Potemkin Village, or watch brand like Brand X. There are two things you can count on -
1. Somebody will always have an ego that outstrips their abilities
2. As Gordon Gecko famously reminds us, a fool and his money are lucky enough to get together in the first place!
Saturday, January 25, 2014
Something I Didn't Expect from Gucci
So today Wendy and I hopped in the buggy and made our way down to Los Angeles and the Grammy Museum as apparently I am part of the "Horological 4th Estate". And the event was a private concert with Janelle Monáe. Now watches were involved, and it was nice, great food, etc. and I will write more about that tomorrow.
But back to the surprise. Two very special guest groups were announced - one was Make a Wish, and another was an incredibly engaged and enthusiastic group of high school kids from Long Beach. And yes, that was in itself pretty cool. Now keep in mind, that this is Gucci, and the Grammy Museum. They are used to pampering the rich, famous - and humoring the watch flacks like your's truly.
But I saw something really, really wonderful happen. Although the first section of the hall was reserved for VIPs, members of the Grammy Museum and Gucci were leading the students and the Make a Wisher's to the FRONT of the very small concert hall so that they could have the very best view in the house during Janelle Monáe's wonderful performance.
So instead of pampering the fat (and slightly overweight) cats who were there, Gucci and the Grammy Museum and Janelle Monáe and her band made sure that these young people were treated to something really, really special.
Here's the thing, I go to a fair amount of "events". The same group of wealthy guys and girls sucking down free drinks, scarfing snacks, really offering nothing except ego, conceit and flatulence. The watch press gets so jaded we stop going. But this was something really, really different. Really special - and I have to say THANK YOU GUCCI, the Grammy Museum and Janelle Monáe. Thank you for reminding me that it's not just about the watch, it should be about people.
 |
| Courtesy of Gucci |
But I saw something really, really wonderful happen. Although the first section of the hall was reserved for VIPs, members of the Grammy Museum and Gucci were leading the students and the Make a Wisher's to the FRONT of the very small concert hall so that they could have the very best view in the house during Janelle Monáe's wonderful performance.
So instead of pampering the fat (and slightly overweight) cats who were there, Gucci and the Grammy Museum and Janelle Monáe and her band made sure that these young people were treated to something really, really special.
Here's the thing, I go to a fair amount of "events". The same group of wealthy guys and girls sucking down free drinks, scarfing snacks, really offering nothing except ego, conceit and flatulence. The watch press gets so jaded we stop going. But this was something really, really different. Really special - and I have to say THANK YOU GUCCI, the Grammy Museum and Janelle Monáe. Thank you for reminding me that it's not just about the watch, it should be about people.
Friday, January 24, 2014
Kon to the Tiki!
I have a lot of great memories of the two KonTikis I've owned. Eterna makes more than just one model of course, but for me it has always been the KonTiki that's captured my imagination.
So there's always at least one KonTiki on my mind. Lately it has been this one. The perfect watch for a weekend of adventure.
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| Courtesy of ETERNA |
Thursday, January 23, 2014
Fantasy League Watch Brands
So what if you could build a dream team for a watch brand, the same way that you construct your "fantasy football" team?
This would be mine:
In no particular order -
North American Brand Manger - Paul Erhardt
Paul has done amazing things in helping to bring the new JEANRICHARD not just to life, but to relevance. He would be my go-to guy, period.
Public Relations - Manon Vauthier
Manon has been the voice of Eterna for several years and I firmly believe that they are the luckiest company in the world to have her. As a former PR guy I take these things pretty seriously - she is the best, period.
Marketing - Xavier Markl
Girard-Perregaux, JEANRICHARD - and soon the world. There is something to be said for restraint in marketing. Keep in mind, restraint is good. And any brand with half a brain would want him working for them.
Communications/Messenger - Charris Yadigaroglou
Max Busser & Friends is spoiled. They have a wonderful leader, they have several talented contributors including Messrs Sarpaneva, Silberstein and Speake-Marin. But Charris is perhaps the "hidden key" to this. Hiring Charis would be a coup for any brand, and it wouldn't surprise me if he isn't receiving overtures from the big and mighty. But then I also suspect that Charris is one of those rare and wonderful people who is not just interested in a paycheck.
Defender of the Realm - Patrik Sjögren
There is something to be said to staying true to your vision. We all have the tendency to cave, to go for the quick buck, the easy money. How many of us are able to say that this is my vision? This is my idea, this is how I want it to be? This is Patrik. A man must have a code, and thank goodness there are people like Patrik out there who have a code and stick to it.
The Artist - Vincent Calabrese
The man is a virtuoso. Self taught, apologizing to no one. We need more folks like him.
The Designer - Christian Gafner
The designer of the MIH, and the man behind ilmia. Bright, talented, focused. Enough said.
The Keeper of the Record - Willy Schweitzer
The Poet Laureate of La Chaux-de-Fonds. With Dr. Oechslin's retirement from the museum imminent, I can think of no better person to take over. That is, of course, if GP/JR are willing to part with him.
The Iconoclast - Adrien Choux
A luxury watch made in China? Well considering that vast portions of your "SWISS MADE" watch bear the same origin, why not embrace the idea? That is just what Adrien has done.
The Visionary - Rick Marei
My boss when I was at DOXA. He saw the future and he shoved it in our faces - in a good way! Even the mighty Richemont group owes Rick a sincere thank you for opening the doors to LEGITIMATE online watch buying.
The Press - Frank Geelen, Robert-Jan Broer
Bloggers actually care about what they tell you. In ten years' time, when Frank and Robert-Jan are publishing books on the industry, we will realize that we got amazing, fantastic information not from people paid to write full time, but people who wrote full time because they loved it.
The Retailers - Tim Jackson and Javi Perrigo
Tim is the champion of the independent watch maker. And Mr. Perrigo? The man who taught me
This would be mine:
In no particular order -
North American Brand Manger - Paul Erhardt
Paul has done amazing things in helping to bring the new JEANRICHARD not just to life, but to relevance. He would be my go-to guy, period.
Public Relations - Manon Vauthier
Manon has been the voice of Eterna for several years and I firmly believe that they are the luckiest company in the world to have her. As a former PR guy I take these things pretty seriously - she is the best, period.
Marketing - Xavier Markl
Girard-Perregaux, JEANRICHARD - and soon the world. There is something to be said for restraint in marketing. Keep in mind, restraint is good. And any brand with half a brain would want him working for them.
Communications/Messenger - Charris Yadigaroglou
Max Busser & Friends is spoiled. They have a wonderful leader, they have several talented contributors including Messrs Sarpaneva, Silberstein and Speake-Marin. But Charris is perhaps the "hidden key" to this. Hiring Charis would be a coup for any brand, and it wouldn't surprise me if he isn't receiving overtures from the big and mighty. But then I also suspect that Charris is one of those rare and wonderful people who is not just interested in a paycheck.
Defender of the Realm - Patrik Sjögren
There is something to be said to staying true to your vision. We all have the tendency to cave, to go for the quick buck, the easy money. How many of us are able to say that this is my vision? This is my idea, this is how I want it to be? This is Patrik. A man must have a code, and thank goodness there are people like Patrik out there who have a code and stick to it.
The Artist - Vincent Calabrese
The man is a virtuoso. Self taught, apologizing to no one. We need more folks like him.
The Designer - Christian Gafner
The designer of the MIH, and the man behind ilmia. Bright, talented, focused. Enough said.
The Keeper of the Record - Willy Schweitzer
The Poet Laureate of La Chaux-de-Fonds. With Dr. Oechslin's retirement from the museum imminent, I can think of no better person to take over. That is, of course, if GP/JR are willing to part with him.
The Iconoclast - Adrien Choux
A luxury watch made in China? Well considering that vast portions of your "SWISS MADE" watch bear the same origin, why not embrace the idea? That is just what Adrien has done.
The Visionary - Rick Marei
My boss when I was at DOXA. He saw the future and he shoved it in our faces - in a good way! Even the mighty Richemont group owes Rick a sincere thank you for opening the doors to LEGITIMATE online watch buying.
The Press - Frank Geelen, Robert-Jan Broer
Bloggers actually care about what they tell you. In ten years' time, when Frank and Robert-Jan are publishing books on the industry, we will realize that we got amazing, fantastic information not from people paid to write full time, but people who wrote full time because they loved it.
The Retailers - Tim Jackson and Javi Perrigo
Tim is the champion of the independent watch maker. And Mr. Perrigo? The man who taught me
most of what I know about "Romancing" a watch. Because ultimately, a watch shouldn't be a purely
rational decision. There should be a measure of passion. Thank you Javier!
The Impresario - too many to name
These are the folks that keep these new brands (and some established ones) still chugging along.
Some Perspective on Provenance
This was sent my way by the folks at Poinçon de Genève
WHO ARE THE HEIRS OF EXCELLENCE?
What do we know about watches stamped with the Poinçon de Genève? While
the Archives of the Canton of Geneva refer to the model, calibre number and
other information that can be used to identify the timepiece, no details are
provided on the circumstances of the purchase. There is no reference to what has
become of the watches either. Where are they now? Who is wearing them? Do their
current owners know that some timepieces are more than 125 years old?
It is with the aim of gathering this information and restoring the
memory of the Poinçon that TIMELAB has decided to invite all owners of watches
bearing the Poinçon de Genève to tell the story of their timepiece and join the
Héritiers de l’Excellence club.
Tracing the history of these
watches tells the story of the Poinçon
To be launched during 2014, the survey will be sent to all
owners of watches stamped with the Poinçon de Genève. First they will be asked to complete
some formalities on the new Poinçon
de Genève site to enable
TIMELAB to verify the authenticity of their timepiece, notably with the reference
number of the original certificate that accompanied each Poinçon watch, or
using distinctive marks on the watch itself (brand, case and movement number,
watch and calibre reference).
They will then be asked to describe the place and
circumstances of the purchase. Was it in Geneva? Was it inherited or a gift? Has
the watch been handed down to descendents of the original owner? How long has
it been in the family? Do the current owners realise they possess a piece of
priceless watchmaking heritage, as seen through the eyes of fine watch
connoisseurs?
Lastly, to thank respondents for taking part, they will be
invited to enter a competition – further details will be revealed shortly. Winners
will be the guests of TIMELAB in Geneva. They will visit a Geneva
“manufacture”, attend a watchmaking class and be able to view records held by
the authorities of the Canton of Geneva.
Les Héritiers de l’Excellence:
heirs of watchmaking excellence
Watches stamped with the Poinçon de Genève embody the spirit
of the “Cabinotiers” of the 17th century whose sole ambition was to
achieve watchmaking excellence. The quality of craftsmanship has been
recognised and respected around the world since the creation of the Poinçon in
November 1886.
For the owners of these watches, being a member of the Héritiers de
l’Excellence club means subscribing to a philosophy that aims to preserve,
promote and transmit the fine tradition of Swiss watchmaking, whose oldest reference
is the Poinçon de Genève.
The identity of these Heirs and the information they send in will be
retained by TIMELAB, whose employees are approved by the Republic and the
Canton of Geneva. These employees uphold the principle of strict and absolute
confidentiality at all times, and are trusted by the State.
About the Poinçon de Genève
Created in 1886 by the Grand
Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva, the Poinçon de Genève is the
oldest watchmaking certification system on record. Since it was updated in
2011, it is also the only official certification that guarantees the quality of
craftsmanship, chronometric precision and correct operation of the principal
functions of each timepiece certified.
To date, 1,300,000 watches around the world have been stamped with the Poinçon de Genève.
Tempus Fugit, Baby!
As it has been over three years, this seemed like a good way to celebrate! Thank you for your support!
Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Luminor 1950 Chrono
Or the Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio to be exact.
Panerai has really dug deep to offer some really special things for this SIHH.
 |
| Courtesy of Panerai |
Panerai has really dug deep to offer some really special things for this SIHH.
The Foster Child of the Watch Industry
So it would seem that after "Mommy and Daddy's" divorce, Hanhart have been "taken in" by "Grandma and Grandpa". Word around the campfire (as yet to be officially confirmed), is that all operations have shifted from Switzerland and now are officially running as a semi-shadow operation in Germany.
So, let's wait and see. Hanhart deserved much better than it got. It deserved to be run with a bit less arrogance, it deserved to be better represented by its distributors. And the fans of Hanhart deserved one HELL of a lot better than what they got - essentially indifference. And the retail partners have numerous "I got hosed" stories to share, so it seems like it was an equal opportunity ass-up.
Now at the risk of stereotyping, German companies are not world-renowned for their "warm fuzzies", but perhaps now is the time. Maybe, just maybe Hanhart is finally going to get the opportunity to be more than just a play thing for squabbling millionaires and lackadaisical distributors. I would like to see something more, I would like to think that there could be a better fate. I for one am hoping.
Hey - you over there at Hanhart Germany - Are you listening?
So, let's wait and see. Hanhart deserved much better than it got. It deserved to be run with a bit less arrogance, it deserved to be better represented by its distributors. And the fans of Hanhart deserved one HELL of a lot better than what they got - essentially indifference. And the retail partners have numerous "I got hosed" stories to share, so it seems like it was an equal opportunity ass-up.
Now at the risk of stereotyping, German companies are not world-renowned for their "warm fuzzies", but perhaps now is the time. Maybe, just maybe Hanhart is finally going to get the opportunity to be more than just a play thing for squabbling millionaires and lackadaisical distributors. I would like to see something more, I would like to think that there could be a better fate. I for one am hoping.
Hey - you over there at Hanhart Germany - Are you listening?
BlackStar from Alpina
This is one of Alpina's pre-Basel novelties -
 |
| Courtesy of Alpina |
the Startimer Pilot Automatic Chronograph BlackStar.
Tuesday, January 21, 2014
Stop! Hammer Time!
Okay, maybe not such a happy moment, but it seems that Rolex (for better or worse) tends to attract a certain "element".
So it would seem that a group of "handymen" strolled into Reed's Jewelers in Memphis, TN and, well, went to work.
As I only "crib" from reliable sources, here's the story courtesy of CNN:
ROLEX THEFT IN MEMPHIS
So please, save your money and BUY your watch from an authorized source.
So it would seem that a group of "handymen" strolled into Reed's Jewelers in Memphis, TN and, well, went to work.
As I only "crib" from reliable sources, here's the story courtesy of CNN:
ROLEX THEFT IN MEMPHIS
So please, save your money and BUY your watch from an authorized source.
Malte from Vacheron Constantin
 |
| Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin |
A new white gold watch for men.
The Black Typhoon from Christopher Ward
This just in from Christopher Ward -
This is the C1000 Typhoon
 |
| Courtesy of Christopher Ward |
Monday, January 20, 2014
Calling Time Out on the "Third Quarter Time"
So word has reached even the sleepy environs of Santa Barbara on this Martin Luther King Jr. holiday that Jean-Claude Biver has picked up the gauntlet and will emerge from his semi-retirement to lead Tag Heuer and Zenith.
Now anyone who reads this little "bloggy-wog" will know that I am a bit of a Biver fan. He is always good for an interesting story and makes himself available for comment. I remember when he announced that he was stepping down from Hublot and handing things over to Ricardo Guadalupe. I had asked during that interview if this was, in fact, the last stop of the "Biver Express". This is from that interview:
 |
| Courtesy of HUBLOT |
JH - You are, in many ways, one of the last of the "Young Turks" who reinvented the mechanical watch industry in the 80s and 90s. You have had your hand on some of the most impressive brand revivals of any industry. Is Hublot really the last stop?
JCB - Yes, I believe that Hublot is the last stop, because I doubt I will find the energy to start one more adventure. I also believe that if you have had three successful experiences in your life you should rather say thank you and try to transmit you knowledge rather than trying to achieve a fourth success.
Now in fairness, the argument could be made that he is still in what he referred to as the "Third Quarter" wherein he is transmitting his knowledge. But for many of us who make up the "horological fourth estate", this is not exactly "small news", and it seems that this is not exactly what was being talked about back in 2012. So as is often the case, it is not easy to walk away - and like a lion in winter, it is very hard to walk away completely.
Now not being an expert on the hierarchy of LVMH, perhaps this is a "front office", "ceremonial/emeritus" type position. But somehow I don't think so. Tag Heuer and Zenith aren't exactly small enterprises, and I think if this was truly meant to be "semi-retirement" Mr. Biver would be staying right where he was.
So let us hope that this will be his fourth success, but it seems clear that the desire to do more is still there.
Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées
These are just in from Vacheron Constantin for the SIHH show -
Openworking a movement is a demanding art, since it involves hollowing out the mechanical parts as much as possible, while being careful not to impair the smooth running of the watch.
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| Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin |
Openworking a movement is a demanding art, since it involves hollowing out the mechanical parts as much as possible, while being careful not to impair the smooth running of the watch.
Slimline Moonphase Manufacture
Here is another of Frederique Constant's Pre-Basel novelties -
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| Courtesy of Frederique Constant |
Remember Minerva?
Well it would seem that Panerai does - and THANK GOODNESS FOR THAT!
This is one of three very welcome additions to the Panerai fleet being debuted at SIHH this week.
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| Courtesy of Panerai |
Saturday, January 18, 2014
The St. George from Grieb & Benzinger
This just in from GRIEB & BENZINGER -
This is the St. George. Here's the scoop straight from the source -
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| Courtesy of Grieb & Benzinger |
Priming the Pump for the Hunger Games
And with the holidays over, we take a collective breath and gird our loins for the sprint towards July. SIHH is now underway, in two more months many of us will fly "cattle class" with itineraries for Zurich and destinations south east for BaselWorld. And then for those of us in North America we will enjoy Memorial Day, then head off to Las Vegas for the JCK show.
Each year at BaselWorld I learn a lot. And if I am really, really honest I am not really learning so much about the industry or the new watches that will be revealed. What I am really learning about is human nature. While we are all excited about the new watches, there is a whole other layer of reality that is going on.
Brands are scrambling for customers. Like ducks on a pond everything looks nice, calm and controlled on the surface. Of course, if you could see underneath the surface you would see the feet going a mile a minute. Brand managers and sales representatives are being told that if they can't bring in 10 new potential customers for appointments they should cancel their travel plans - and the subtext of that is that they might want to freshen up their resumes.
Distributors are out on the prowl, not unlike the predators who stalk the Port Authority of New York in search of the next big thing.
And BaselWorld's version of "Rick's Café Américain" is the lobby of the Ramada. This is where perhaps the majority of real deals are being made. If you want to know how a brand is really doing, and you see one of the senior members engaged in lengthy discussions in the lobby of the Ramada you can conclude that either things aren't so good and they need an investment, or that a pretty big deal is about to go down that needs to be kept "out of the booth".
The retail partners, and "partners to be" brace themselves for a week of "speed dating". And this is not just about getting new brands, it is also in many ways a week of "couple's therapy". Retailers are pissed off at brands for a multitude of reasons. And this is one of the funnier parts of the dynamic. The retailer will essentially read the brand the "riot act" over a litany of failings - "You've opened too many doors", "you don't advertise enough", "you're not giving me enough product", "you're giving me too much product", "you don't love me anymore". Now what the brand is feeling is pretty similar - "you don't really push the product", "you discount the product beyond belief", "you dump product on Ebay". And one that is near and dear to my heart - "you don't pay your f&*^ing invoice even after you've sold the watch!" But the sharp brand manager will keep these feelings to themselves, they will take the abuse from the retail partner and then if they feel it is a losing proposition, they will quietly "close the door" (i.e. end the retailer's agreement).
As with any truly good drama, there will be winners, losers, heroes and villains.
And like I said at the start - there will be some new watches ; )
Each year at BaselWorld I learn a lot. And if I am really, really honest I am not really learning so much about the industry or the new watches that will be revealed. What I am really learning about is human nature. While we are all excited about the new watches, there is a whole other layer of reality that is going on.
Brands are scrambling for customers. Like ducks on a pond everything looks nice, calm and controlled on the surface. Of course, if you could see underneath the surface you would see the feet going a mile a minute. Brand managers and sales representatives are being told that if they can't bring in 10 new potential customers for appointments they should cancel their travel plans - and the subtext of that is that they might want to freshen up their resumes.
Distributors are out on the prowl, not unlike the predators who stalk the Port Authority of New York in search of the next big thing.
And BaselWorld's version of "Rick's Café Américain" is the lobby of the Ramada. This is where perhaps the majority of real deals are being made. If you want to know how a brand is really doing, and you see one of the senior members engaged in lengthy discussions in the lobby of the Ramada you can conclude that either things aren't so good and they need an investment, or that a pretty big deal is about to go down that needs to be kept "out of the booth".
The retail partners, and "partners to be" brace themselves for a week of "speed dating". And this is not just about getting new brands, it is also in many ways a week of "couple's therapy". Retailers are pissed off at brands for a multitude of reasons. And this is one of the funnier parts of the dynamic. The retailer will essentially read the brand the "riot act" over a litany of failings - "You've opened too many doors", "you don't advertise enough", "you're not giving me enough product", "you're giving me too much product", "you don't love me anymore". Now what the brand is feeling is pretty similar - "you don't really push the product", "you discount the product beyond belief", "you dump product on Ebay". And one that is near and dear to my heart - "you don't pay your f&*^ing invoice even after you've sold the watch!" But the sharp brand manager will keep these feelings to themselves, they will take the abuse from the retail partner and then if they feel it is a losing proposition, they will quietly "close the door" (i.e. end the retailer's agreement).
As with any truly good drama, there will be winners, losers, heroes and villains.
And like I said at the start - there will be some new watches ; )
Friday, January 17, 2014
That's Lepine, Mon Frere!
We don't really think about pocket watches too much these days, and when we do, it is usually something we inherited.
But pals and gals this is nice, new, dare I say modern.
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| Courtesy of Patek Philippe |
Thursday, January 16, 2014
Tuesday, January 14, 2014
JEANRICHARD's “208 Seconds” Aeroscope Timepiece
This just in from JEANRICHARD -
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| Courtesy of JEANRICHARD |
Swiss
luxury watchmaker JEANRICHARD honored its brand ambassador, Captain Chesley
“Sully” Sullenberger to commemorate the 5th Anniversary of the
landing of Flight 1549 on the Hudson River with the launch of the special edition
“208 Seconds” Aeroscope watch. The event, which took place at Tourneau
TimeMachine 57th Street and Madison Avenue in New York City,
celebrated how the American hero saved 155 people in only 208 seconds on
January 15, 2009.
Waiting for Godot… or the Speedmaster MK II
I am guilty of the sin of being an English teacher - and someone who perhaps reads a bit too much. I am someone who is, at times, a bit too much of a romantic. I picture things at a certain time and from a certain place, and I too easily dismiss the fact that those places I've left, that time has moved on. So that is why I am always so, well, soothed when I see something like this from OMEGA -
Behold, the MK II - We no longer need to wait for Godot.
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| Courtesy of OMEGA |
The GRAMMIUM® TIMEPIECE from Gucci
This just in from Gucci -
Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry announces the launch of the Gucci GRAMMY® Special Edition Interlocking watch with a dial made of GRAMMIUM®, the very same material used to forge the iconic trophy statuette in the shape of a gramophone — the GRAMMY Award®.
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| Courtesy of Gucci |
Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry announces the launch of the Gucci GRAMMY® Special Edition Interlocking watch with a dial made of GRAMMIUM®, the very same material used to forge the iconic trophy statuette in the shape of a gramophone — the GRAMMY Award®.
JEANRICHARD and Xi'an's Harmony World Watch Centre
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| Courtesy of JEANRICHARD |
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| Courtesy of JEANRICHARD |
JEANRICHARD can trace its history back to the end of the 17th century when its watches were designed by the renowned watchmaker Daniel Jeanrichard. In 2012, the brand returned to the stage and displayed a brand-new image through its newest wristwatch collections. JEANRICHARD can also depend on some impressive support for its future development. The Kering Group (formerly PPR) recently became the majority shareholder of Sowind Group, which owns the JEANRICHARD brand.
This time, JEANRICHARD is coming to Xi’an, the ancient emperor city with over a thousand years of brilliant history. The ancient city, with its complex cultural roots and abundant historical relics and artifacts, reveals its mystery and its countless cultural rhythms. Just as JEANRICHARD, it encourages people to adopt a new way of conceiving time and to embrace the joy of discovery. The Swiss watchmaker’s entry is like a stream flowing through the lengthy wave of the ancient capital’s culture, breathing pure and fresh air into it, and even a new philosophy of life. This is the perfect fusion of an ancient delicacy and a modern classic.
This time, JEANRICHARD is coming to Xi’an, the ancient emperor city with over a thousand years of brilliant history. The ancient city, with its complex cultural roots and abundant historical relics and artifacts, reveals its mystery and its countless cultural rhythms. Just as JEANRICHARD, it encourages people to adopt a new way of conceiving time and to embrace the joy of discovery. The Swiss watchmaker’s entry is like a stream flowing through the lengthy wave of the ancient capital’s culture, breathing pure and fresh air into it, and even a new philosophy of life. This is the perfect fusion of an ancient delicacy and a modern classic.
It Pays to be Original - Long Live the Royal Oak!
Or maybe, it is more accurate to say that it doesn't pay to lack imagination. By now most of you have digested the news from the Southern District of New York. Audemars Piguet has successfully brought suit against Swiss Watch International (also known as SWI), and been awarded over 9 million dollars US in damages. The Royal Oak is a beautiful watch with a legendary history and clear provenance. The Swiss Legend Trimix Diver, not so much. While this is not an outright copy/knock off (I mean it did have an SWI dial!), it was felt by many to be not exactly an SWI original creation. It would seem that the law (at least the Southern District of New York) agrees.
THANK YOU! Sometimes there seems to be a bit of "moral flexibility" in the watch industry, and it is a little too tempting for some to push the envelope because there oftentimes aren't real consequences. Hopefully this will help to spread the message.
THANK YOU! Sometimes there seems to be a bit of "moral flexibility" in the watch industry, and it is a little too tempting for some to push the envelope because there oftentimes aren't real consequences. Hopefully this will help to spread the message.
Monday, January 13, 2014
Classico Horse from Ulysse Nardin
This just in from Ulysse Nardin -
The Year of the Horse is upon us, and Ulysse Nardin pays tribute to the animal spirit with the Ulysse Nardin Classico Horse. Like the wild horses, it is a timepiece of independence made with the free-roamer in mind.
Graceful with power, self-determined with emotion, and untamed with control, the horses on the watch’s dial appear to gallop with liberty. Expansive plains and majestic mountains in the background meet their arrival.
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| Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin |
Graceful with power, self-determined with emotion, and untamed with control, the horses on the watch’s dial appear to gallop with liberty. Expansive plains and majestic mountains in the background meet their arrival.
Sunday, January 12, 2014
Saturday, January 11, 2014
A Grand Complication from Audemars Piguet
So I just finished Stacy Perman's A Grand Complication. It is essentially the story of two men who competed (albeit surreptitiously) with each other to imagine and own the world's most complicated watch.
Patek Philippe was their preferred supper, but I thought in light of "competition", why not look at some other examples?
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| Courtesy of Audemars Piguet |
Patek Philippe was their preferred supper, but I thought in light of "competition", why not look at some other examples?
Ahoy, Panerai!
This is the Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback.
47 mm of brushed titanium goodness!
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| Courtesy of Panerai |
Friday, January 10, 2014
There Can Be Only Two… Really?
So it would seem.
It seems (to me at least) odd that it has now been more than 10 years since I stalked behind the cases of the first Tourneau iteration in San Francisco. My boss, Javier P was - and is - the Jedi Master, and frankly embodies everything about the watch business that I love.
Inevitably, we had people come into Tourneau who were already thinking of ways to explain a larger purchase to their spouse, partner, parent, etc. "So, this would be like, a good investment…" This was always stated NOT with a lot of confidence. And I probably punted a few sales by saying what I would say next: "Your children are a good investment, your retirement is a good investment. Patek Philippe and Rolex are a good investment. Everything else is something you are buying for you."
At that time, it was Patek and Rolex in terms of resale value. And frankly it still is. We can talk about what "unique" pieces from F.P. Journe or Vacheron might fetch at auction, but how many pieces really fit into that category? When other folks write tomes about how you can get a great watch at a bargain price buying a Vacheron at auction, etc….
So gentle readers, may I make this suggestion?
Buy what YOU like. If you are looking for an investment, INVEST in your children.
And yes, a watch is an investment - an investment for yourself, for your enjoyment, for your passionate pursuit of the somewhat illogical itch that we watch lovers are always hoping to scratch. But apart from Patek and Rolex, the rest is speculation. And maybe that is just the way that it is supposed to be.
When I went down to Memphis to bury my father, Wendy and I packed up his office, and he must have had over $15,000 of pens stashed in little boxes throughout his office. The choice pieces were in his desk, the rest hidden from his wife who criticized his pen compulsion relentlessly. And I still feel bad about that - perhaps that is why the Oberlin Pen Company came into being. Ultimately, he really didn't want to part with them, but in fairness, he didn't have much use for them on his ultimate appointment with his maker.
So as my old professor once said (in a slightly agitated voice) "What is your point, Mr. Henderson?"
Simply this - there is nothing wrong with being passionate about things, about a collection, about what makes you "tick". Live within your means, embrace your passion and don't feel the need to lie or to make excuses. As the immortal Francis Z would say - "So long as you're not taking mustard off the table".
Enjoy your watches, life is short - sometimes too short. You don't have to justify yourself to anybody but yourself.
It seems (to me at least) odd that it has now been more than 10 years since I stalked behind the cases of the first Tourneau iteration in San Francisco. My boss, Javier P was - and is - the Jedi Master, and frankly embodies everything about the watch business that I love.
Inevitably, we had people come into Tourneau who were already thinking of ways to explain a larger purchase to their spouse, partner, parent, etc. "So, this would be like, a good investment…" This was always stated NOT with a lot of confidence. And I probably punted a few sales by saying what I would say next: "Your children are a good investment, your retirement is a good investment. Patek Philippe and Rolex are a good investment. Everything else is something you are buying for you."
At that time, it was Patek and Rolex in terms of resale value. And frankly it still is. We can talk about what "unique" pieces from F.P. Journe or Vacheron might fetch at auction, but how many pieces really fit into that category? When other folks write tomes about how you can get a great watch at a bargain price buying a Vacheron at auction, etc….
So gentle readers, may I make this suggestion?
Buy what YOU like. If you are looking for an investment, INVEST in your children.
And yes, a watch is an investment - an investment for yourself, for your enjoyment, for your passionate pursuit of the somewhat illogical itch that we watch lovers are always hoping to scratch. But apart from Patek and Rolex, the rest is speculation. And maybe that is just the way that it is supposed to be.
When I went down to Memphis to bury my father, Wendy and I packed up his office, and he must have had over $15,000 of pens stashed in little boxes throughout his office. The choice pieces were in his desk, the rest hidden from his wife who criticized his pen compulsion relentlessly. And I still feel bad about that - perhaps that is why the Oberlin Pen Company came into being. Ultimately, he really didn't want to part with them, but in fairness, he didn't have much use for them on his ultimate appointment with his maker.
So as my old professor once said (in a slightly agitated voice) "What is your point, Mr. Henderson?"
Simply this - there is nothing wrong with being passionate about things, about a collection, about what makes you "tick". Live within your means, embrace your passion and don't feel the need to lie or to make excuses. As the immortal Francis Z would say - "So long as you're not taking mustard off the table".
Enjoy your watches, life is short - sometimes too short. You don't have to justify yourself to anybody but yourself.
The Time Pyramid from Arnold & Son
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| Courtesy of Arnold & Son |
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