Showing posts with label Christian Gafner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Christian Gafner. Show all posts

Friday, June 2, 2023

The Mechanik2

I have known Christian Gafner for a minute or two. We first met in 2013 when I bought a pair of Ilmia sneakers from him in what is now the Hyperion hotel during BaselWorld. 

I ran into him again in 2019 on the train from the airport in Zurich heading to the Jura. In fairness, that was not such a random meeting as I had plans to meet him in Biel-Bienne, and he just happened to get onto the train car that I was traveling on. When we arrived in Biel-Bienne he sold me another pair of Ilmias!

Needless to say, he has done a lot in the world of design and up to now his "Magnum Opus" has been the original MIH watch. But it seems that he might be about to leave even bigger footprints on the horological landscape.
Courtesy of Mechanik2
The Mechanik2 is the newly minted reinterpretation of the original MIH watch. It has been a long, slow, steady process but one that is hopefully about the reach the finish line.  

While similar in many aspects to the original, this new piece is not a complete "homage" and that is a good thing. It will offer the opportunity for those who missed the first "go-round" to get the next generation. 

It is important to note that this is not, has not (and as far as I understand it) will not be "endorsed" by the MIH. But that takes nothing away from the ambition of its design and its execution.

If you feel that this might be in your wheelhouse, check it out yourself at the Mechanik2 website -

Saturday, November 30, 2019

It's Gotta Be The Shoes! The Feel-Good, Triumphant Return of ilmia!

     Christian Gafner, Co-founder / CEO (is the handsome one on the left)
I am a sneaker-head.  There, I've said it.  It would be easy to assume that this the result of my time at the University of Oregon where Nike was in many ways born and raised.  But in fact it goes deeper.  Picture a small college town in northern Ohio back 1976.  Students coming to town from all over the country, and in fact the world.  And with the students came some worldly classmates at Prospect elementary school, who actually VISITED England, France... even Germany!  The rest of us wore Keds, or if we were really cool (which I was definitively, NOT) you might have Converse.  These kids came back wearing Adidas and Puma sneakers.  And not shoes made of canvas, but actual leather!  

As reported in an earlier Tempus Fugit missive, I begged Santa Clause (i.e. Mom and Dad) for a pair of leather Adidas.  There were a few small obstacles standing between me and Christmas happiness:
  
1.  While some kids in Oberlin had Adidas shoes on their feet, no retail stores within hailing distance sold them.

2.  The stores that sold them were so far away that you had heard of these cities on the local news, but they might as well have been in East Germany.  The roads that connected my small hometown and the metro Cleveland area were not, shall we say, advanced or well coordinated.

3.  I had what were considered at that time, seriously undersized feet for my age.  Meaning that while Adidas and Puma might make shoes in my size, those were not the sizes that specialty sports stores in Northern Ohio (or really anywhere else in the US) would likely be ordering for their stores.

Spoiler alert - somehow (hand to God, to this day I don't know exactly how), Mom came through and under the tree were a pair of size 1 Adidas Cadets. 
Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide info web
I wore those shoes until they literally fell off of my then 9 year old feet.  And I have been devoted to sneakers ever since, but in all honesty, I had not had that same visceral, Christmas morning thrill until many, many years later when I first met Christian Gafner and bought a couple of pairs of ilmias back in 2013.  

Curious to relate, just like that 8 year old kid in Ohio, there was a whole country of kids (East Germany) young and old who loved and wanted sneakers.  And ilmia was the brand.  The Berlin Wall came down, Germany was re-unified, and ilmia tucked in for a long nap that would have been the envy of sleeping beauty, until they were awoken by a few princes, and a princess.

Which brings us nearly up-to date.  I started coming to BaselWorld as a journalist in 2011.
At the time, ilmias were a well-kept secret, and had I not seen them featured at the ochs und junior shop in Lucerne I would not have known about them.  And that is when I first met Christian and put my money on the table and put a pair of ilmias on my feet.

For those of you not aware, Christian is the designer behind the first MIH watch -
Courtesy of Embassy & MIH
He also has done design work for Eterna and Porsche Design among others.  But these days he is firmly behind the re-boot of ilmia.

So one week ago, I found myself fresh off the train from Zurich to meet him and see the new batch. And so to one of my "other offices", Caffè Spettacolo just opposite the Biel/Bienne train station, where I got to see what is up next for ilmia.  And a friendly travel tip from your old pal Henki - next time you're in-between connections at the Biel/Bienne station, or you need an easy to find rally point?  I highly recommend the Caffè Spettacolo.

And I got the hook-up, and put my marker down for a pair of "samples". 
And as any good sneaker-head would, I got my pair signed -
1 / INFINITY.  I like that ; )

And while I got a chance to look at the new, I also got a brief re-wind through the old -
Have no doubt, ilmia made some serious athletic shoes back in the day.

And if you were a kid on what we used to think of as the "wrong side" of the Berlin Wall, and you couldn't get your hands on the Adidas Rom or the Puma Roma?  ilmia had you covered -

Now I can't speak to how the "old school" ilmia kicks fit and feel, but my pair fits well, super soft and comfy.  And to quote the youngsters hanging out at Bodega in Boston, they are:

"So drip!"

Per the Urban Dictionary:
Drip
adjective to describe your outfit similar to swag, sauce, steez, swank
dripmane - "mane my outfit is dripping right now"
by splashtonkutcher October 08, 2018

Biel/Bienne was my first stop on an horological wander that took me Switzerland and France.  The story starts with -

A Love Letter to Besançon - part 1

Stay tuned!

Thursday, January 23, 2014

Fantasy League Watch Brands

So what if you could build a dream team for a watch brand, the same way that you construct your "fantasy football" team?

This would be mine:

In no particular order -

North American Brand Manger - Paul Erhardt
Paul has done amazing things in helping to bring the new JEANRICHARD not just to life, but to relevance.  He would be my go-to guy, period.

Public Relations - Manon Vauthier 
Manon has been the voice of Eterna for several years and I firmly believe that they are the luckiest company in the world to have her.  As a former PR guy I take these things pretty seriously - she is the best, period.  

Marketing - Xavier Markl
Girard-Perregaux, JEANRICHARD - and soon the world.  There is something to be said for restraint in marketing.  Keep in mind, restraint is good.  And any brand with half a brain would want him working for them.

Communications/Messenger - Charris Yadigaroglou
Max Busser & Friends is spoiled.  They have a wonderful leader, they have several talented contributors including Messrs Sarpaneva, Silberstein and Speake-Marin.  But Charris is perhaps the "hidden key" to this.  Hiring Charis would be a coup for any brand, and it wouldn't surprise me if he isn't receiving overtures from the big and mighty.  But then I also suspect that Charris is one of those rare and wonderful people who is not just interested in a paycheck.

Defender of the Realm - Patrik Sjögren
There is something to be said to staying true to your vision.  We all have the tendency to cave, to go for the quick buck, the easy money.  How many of us are able to say that this is my vision?  This is my idea, this is how I want it to be?  This is Patrik.  A man must have a code, and thank goodness there are people like Patrik out there who have a code and stick to it.

The Artist - Vincent Calabrese
The man is a virtuoso.  Self taught, apologizing to no one.  We need more folks like him.

The Designer - Christian Gafner
The designer of the MIH, and the man behind ilmia.  Bright, talented, focused.  Enough said.

The Keeper of the Record - Willy Schweitzer
The Poet Laureate of La Chaux-de-Fonds.  With Dr. Oechslin's retirement from the museum imminent, I can think of no better person to take over.  That is, of course, if GP/JR are willing to part with him.

The Iconoclast - Adrien Choux
A luxury watch made in China?  Well considering that vast portions of your "SWISS MADE" watch bear the same origin, why not embrace the idea?  That is just what Adrien has done.

The Visionary - Rick Marei 
My boss when I was at DOXA.  He saw the future and he shoved it in our faces - in a good way!  Even the mighty Richemont group owes Rick a sincere thank you for opening the doors to LEGITIMATE online watch buying.

The Press - Frank Geelen, Robert-Jan Broer 
Bloggers actually care about what they tell you.  In ten years' time, when Frank and Robert-Jan are publishing books on the industry,  we will realize that we got amazing, fantastic information not from people paid to write full time, but people who wrote full time because they loved it.

The Retailers - Tim Jackson and Javi Perrigo
Tim is the champion of the independent watch maker.  And Mr. Perrigo?  The man who taught me
most of what I know about "Romancing" a watch.  Because ultimately, a watch shouldn't be a purely 
rational decision.  There should be a measure of passion.  Thank you Javier!

The Impresario - too many to name
These are the folks that keep these new brands (and some established ones) still chugging along.

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

It Must be the Shoes - Part Deux

It's easy to overdose on watches at BaselWorld.  So after worshipping from afar, I finally got to check out some Ilmia shoes "in the flesh".  The brand owner, Christian Gafner was kind enough to visit me at the Naldi's area for Edelberg and he brought some Ilmia shoes.

Thursday, March 7, 2013

It's Gotta be the Shoes... and the Watch Designer!

I was the ORIGINAL sneaker nut!  When I was a (younger) Northern Youth, my friends and I became obsessed by Puma, Converse and most clearly - Adidas!  And to all of you "millennials" out there, this was 1976/1977 Northern Ohio - Nike was not what it is today!





So I became obsessed with getting a REAL pair of GENUINE, MADE IN EUROPE Adidas shoes.  There were two small drawbacks:

1.  I had a kid's size 3.5 - which meant Buster Browns or Keds, but no Adidas available in our exotic location for such small feet.

2.  Being all of 8 years old, pocket money would not nearly cover such a lavish expense as $30 - $40!

So enter my mother - who secretly scoured most of Northern Ohio to find a pair of Adidas Cadet shoes in my size, and they were under the Christmas tree!  MAN - I LOVED THEM!  They were white leather, with red and white stripes.  Made in France - which to my way of thinking might as well have been the moon!  I wore them EVERYWHERE!  In the snow, in the rain, in the mud - always taking great care to clean them up afterwards.

Years later when I worked at Tourneau, customers would often state that the high end watch they were going to buy was an investment.  I would say - yes and no.  It is an emotional investment for sure, and if you keep it on that level you will never be disappointed.  That very small pair of Adidas Cadets was for my mother an emotional investment in me.

And now, I am older.  I see things a bit more cynically.  But last year while visiting the oxen space in Lucerne, I felt the first stirrings of youthful enthusiasm for sneakers again -

Courtesy of Ilmia

This the ilmia in white.  A lot like the Model T, you can have it in any color you like, as long as it's white, black or brown ; )  And I like that!

Courtesy of ilmia 
I know what you're thinking - so "OLD FASHIONED"...
YES - thank goodness!  There is something in all of us that wants the original - not an "homage", but the real deal, or as close as you can come.  So it took a man with a bit of vision to bring back this classic.


Courtesy of ilmia  
WAIT - what has this got to do with watches??!?

I'm glad you asked!


Courtesy of ilmia  
This is Christian - watch designer formerly of Porsche Design.  And here is the rest of the story courtesy of ilmia -

2004, Swiss industrial designer Christian Gafner discovered the limited-edition ilmia shoes on the Internet. It was love at first sight. Contact with the project’s Berlin initiators was quickly established and the whole story surrounding the sports shoe multinational and its injunction came out. Gafner’s practiced eye immediately spotted the shoes’ potential. Unpacking the pair he had ordered over the Internet, he breathed in a set of familiar scents: the hint of adhesive and the fragrance of leather that took him back to his childhood and the hours spent in his grandfather’s shoemaking workshop.

2006 found Christian Gafner working for Porsche Design, designing wristwatches for the prestigious brand. Deciding to take on the challenge of ilmia, he paid several visits to Berlin and spent the following two years preparing for the brand’s definitive relaunch. As a result, the shoes continue to be handcrafted in Weissenfels (Saxony-Anhalt, Germany). Through skilful application of the rules of shoemaking, every upper is hand fashioned from high-grade full-grain leather and fitted with an outsole.

The design reinforces the brand’s authenticity, steering clear of short-term fashion trends. ilmia has no graphical logo as such, preferring instead to embroider its distinctive logotype on the outer flank of the left shoe in acknowledgment of the orphaned left shoe found in the Berlin flea market – the event that triggered the brand’s rebirth.


So lace up a pair of ilmias and embrace your inner sneaker freak!