Wednesday, May 30, 2018

What I've Learned

Despite some pretty dubious watch coverage (i.e. you pay, we'll cover you), I still really enjoy Esquire and I am a big fan of their "What I've Learned" interview segments.  So given some recent interactions I've had both in person and online, and considering that if I count back to when I first stepped behind the counter at Tourneau in San Francisco, I've been "in the game" for 15 years now, I thought it might be fun to put out my own "What I've Learned" piece.  So, gentle reader, here is some of what 
I've learned -

While it is true that Hayek saved the Swiss Watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver would have still kicked ass with Blancpain and would have lived happily ever after either way.

I was there before Hublot became what they would become.  
I am still here now that it is a somewhat bumbling PR gas factory that, apparently, also makes watches.  Although I know that I have the ability to highly irritate him, I have a great deal of respect for Jean-Claude Biver.  But now is the time to start thinking about legacy.  About what happens when he is no longer there.  Jean-Claude Biver is a very, very impressive man.  He has done some very amazing things. Here's hoping it doesn't get washed away.

When a brand manager or CEO asks you "How are you my friend?"  The translation of that is - "how you doing, asshole?"

Brand managers, CEOs, PR people?  By and large,they are not your friends.  Don't delude yourself to the contrary.  You might get lucky with a few - and I have, but the true friends will reveal themselves over time, and they are the ones you should always make time for at BaselWorld.


Having said all that - sometimes you will, despite your compulsion to serve up cold cups of coffee, find some true friends and supporters in some very unexpected places.

You will learn to see when people are genuine.  Hold onto those people like a non-treatable social disease.  They have every reason to dislike you based on what you write or say, and yet they are your audience.  And they are your friends indeed.

Rich, famous, important people - are a lot less interesting when you finally meet them.

Little known piece of Henki lore, my father was a country club manager.  Translation?  He worked so that the more well-heeled could play.  I worked in the locker room of the club, my first job working as a shoe shine guy.  Believe it or not, in the 70s and 80s, there was an actual industry based upon shining the shoes of rich people while they walked around a park-like environment, drinking beer and whacking small white balls.  Rich people, famous people?  They are people.  George Steinbrenner was a titan of industry and master manipulator.  I can tell you from personal experience, his shoes smelled just as awful as an orthodontist, dermatologist or mid-level auto executive's.   The one thing all four of these guys had in common?  They were shitty tippers.

I have met some of the big swinging dicks of the industry.  It is all too often underwhelming.

When anyone tells you how amazing you are and how "just as soon as you take advertising, we're in!"  this person should be taken with about as much seriousness as you would take the drunk person asking for $3 on the commuter train so that they can "buy a healthy snack".

We all say a lot of highly dubious stuff when we've been drinking.  That's why your wife/husband/partner learns over the years to apply the bullshit filter.  Make sure you do the same, it will spare you a fair amount of heartache.

When you have made it clear by your actions, your writing, and your passion that you are predisposed to write nice things about a brand, and said brand treats you with a fair amount of indifference?  Take it on the heel and toe.  Love needs to be reciprocal.

I am still somewhat miffed by my interaction with a certain member of the SWATCH group.  I gave up a Thanksgiving holiday, spent several hundred dollars of my own money to interview their CEO, and then watched as the outlet that they were on retainer with got so-called "exclusives", review opportunities, etc., and I got the cold shoulder.   To this day, I have no doubt that the North American brand manager of SWATCH GROUP brand X just thinks that I am a difficult person.  But in fairness?  If someone is willing to give you so much for NOTHING?  You can spare a little time and a little effort.  And for what it's worth?  In speaking with retail partners of SWATCH GROUP brand X, they are not exactly selling like the waffle's sexier cousin - the hotcake.

Brands are made up of people.  The brand does not exist without the people.  If a brand has good people - I will do ALL that I can.  If a brand has people that just don't care?  Why should I care about them?

I get the odd comment - "I thought you were a fan of Brand A".  Well, I have come to learn that brands are made of people.  It's not as if the founders of Girard-Perregaux are going to make a special appearance in the physical world to tour me around the factory.  The brand?  The brand is the people who work there.  So put it in another context - do you like spending time with people who treat you poorly?  Of course you don't.  Molly Ringwald's entire career was based on this notion.  A watch is an inanimate object.  It can't speak for itself.  A brand is not simply products.  A brand is the people who make those products, and share that message.  

Brand ambassadors are about as worthwhile as what you wipe your backside with.

There is a reason why Hitler, Stalin and Pol Pot are not mentioned as customers of Brand X.  

Churchill, Napoleon, Lindbergh?  All flawed, all now "ambassadors" from the great beyond.  Well, they won, didn't they? They were all flawed, all had baggage. But they are a whole lot more palatable. 

Question - do you think that the Mario Batali Ernst Benz is a big seller right now?  

Sorry, too soon? 

A brand ambassador will not be there with you when they turn out the lights.  A former brand that was "ALL IN" can attest to that.

Remember everyone you meet when times are good.  You will see them again on your way back down.  

It is inevitable to fail.  The trick is not to make a habit of it.  More importantly?  Don't be a jackass when times are good.  Sooner or later, it is likely you will fail.  By and large, most of us want to help people and offer our support.  That is, of course, presuming that person behaved, well, like a person when times were good ; )

Don't fake the funk 

Because in the immortal words of that other great commentator on the watch industry Daryl Dawkins:
“When everything is said and done there is nothing left to do or say.”  

The Ceol Minute Repeater

From McGonigle -

Courtesy of McGonigle

With the news that the McGonigle brothers have been inducted into the TEMPORIS Hall of Fame, I thought it might be nice to look at one of their wonderful timekeepers.  

The case measures 41 mm in diameter, and is of white gold.  The movement is McGJC15.  Hours, minutes and a repeating function.  A watch worthy of the newest members of the TEMPORIS Hall of Fame!

 


 

Sunday, May 27, 2018

Stick a Fork in it

News reached Tempus Fugit HQ Friday night that the Kansas City based Niall watch brand had abruptly ceased operations with a message of thanks on their company website, which you can read here -
https://niallluxury.com/


Given the amount of hype, press and a seemingly limitless number of partnerships being announced, one would be forgiven for thinking that Niall watches were selling really, really well. 

Other than the brief statement, there is not a whole lot of detail coming out.  It is hoped that customers with a watch still under warranty will be taken care of (and I personally have no reason to assume that they won't), but it would be good for Niall to clarify that on their website's statement which currently only offers a suggestion for future service.

So what went wrong?

We may never know.  We can speculate, and Mr. Wilson is very welcome to offer feedback here via comment, but I suspect that we are looking at 3 realities:
What the founder feels happened
What the financial backers feel happened 
What the employees (past and now more recently past) feel happened.

One possibility is that the investors have exercised some provision in their agreement and pulled the brake.  It is possible there is a non-disclosure agreement prohibiting any discussion as to what happened and why the company closed so abruptly.

We will reach out, and we will keep you posted.

Friday, May 25, 2018

The Transfer Window Opens

BaselWorld is the biggest watch event of the year.  Despite bumps along the road and its recent, very dramatic contraction in the number of participating brands, visitors and number of operating days, it is still the top of the heap.

The last three years have been particularly dicey, with even the dedicated sycophants wringing their hands, bemoaning how unfair things were in terms of pricing, etc.  This was particularly humorous for those of us who travel coach, depend on the free lunch in the press room to stretch our meal budget, and use vacation days from our day jobs to attend.  Listening to someone who is wearing shoes that cost more than my mortgage payment moan about how expensive the fair has gotten and how tone deaf the fair management has become is hard to do with a straight face.

So if I am honest, today's announcement regarding the long-serving Managing Director, Sylvie Ritter's resignation was not unexpected.
But again, if I am honest, the brands have been complicit in the rise and fall of the BaselWorld fair.  And this is absolutely understandable.  When times are good, it is normal that you spend money a bit more freely, and you don't worry about tomorrow as much as maybe you should.  Brand owners and managers saying that the fair got too greedy, didn't pay attention their customers (the watch brands), oversold space (not unlike the brands who over produce), and showed no loyalty (like the brands who refuse to honestly trade with their retail partners and instead dump stock in the grey and light grey market) were out of touch.  But I suspect that a lot of these recent contrarians are not necessarily converts to the new economic realities.  Rather they are "trendetarians".  From our friends at the Urban Dictionary:

A person that cuts a certain food out of their diet because of a trend
Jessica became a trendetarian because her favourite magazine told her gluten is bad.
by rk.rust March 20, 2018

So long as they can afford it, they will participate.  Breitling and some others played a very good bluff this past year, but in the end it was just that, a bluff.

Some simple facts -

BaselWorld has always been crazy expensive for most of us to attend.  The main difference is that for some of us it something we really want to attend and really want to participate in.  

So may I make a sincere proposal to both the fair and the brands -

To the fair - maybe reach some sort of negotiated deal with hotels in the area for press.  Not to give rooms away, but rather to offer a discount for members of the press.  You could have the greatest watch in the world, but if the media doesn't cover it, what's the point?

Also, please continue to offer the same great benefits of the press room.  It is REALLY appreciated!

To the brands - start treating all the press and all of your retail partners a bit more equally.  Just as you may feel hard done by when you get a take it or leave it attitude from the fair organizers, the press and your retail partners often feel the same way ; )

Despite the expense, time away from home, and loss of vacation time I personally love going to BaselWorld.  After 11 fairs (3 as a brand rep, and 8 as a member of the press), I still enjoy it.  

And for both the brands and the fair organizers, maybe consider the fair like this - it can be chicken salad, or chicken shit.  I personally prefer chicken salad ; )


Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Client Update

In the interest of transparency and clarity, just a reminder that I do work with a few brands in a business relationship that I do receive payment for to provide marketing and media consulting.  Owing to this, if you see these brands mentioned here (TEMPUS FUGIT) there is a disclaimer on any item that was written following the date of any agreement being reached.

So first, an update on my current clients so that it is well known.  You will also notice a new tab at the top of Tempus Fugit that outlines all business relationships so that it is clearly disclosed who I work with.

I currently work with -

Vortic Watch Company

Sternglas Zeitmesser

Minase

Sartory Billard

Sartory Billard is a new client, and as such you will only receive very basic, very minimal (just the facts) news updates here on Tempus Fugit.  All posts regarding these brands will include a statement of my working relationship with them.

Tuesday, May 22, 2018

The Duobox Classic LE.3

From Brellum -


Courtesy of Brellum

This is a very limited series - 13 pieces total if I have understood the press info. correctly.  I do not know whether this has already sold out or not, but the cited editions from Brellum seem to move quickly.

Courtesy of Brellum
But just in case, here are the perntinents, straight from the source -

CALIBER
BRELLUM BR-751-TCMP Automatic Chronometer (Valjoux 7751 base) 

Certification:
Officially Chronometer certified movement (COSC)

Decoration:
Pelage, Geneva stripes, blue screws, numbered rotor from 01/13 to 13/13 decorated with the Brellum logo and gold 5N coated

Technology:
25 jewels, 28'800 A/h, 46 hours power reserve; Incabloc, Glucydur Balance,
Nivarox Alloy Hairspring typ Anachron

Functions:
Hours, Min., Sec., triple calendar (day, date, month), chronograph, day/night indicator, moon phase indicator

CASE

Material:
Stainless Steel 316L, DIN 1.4435

Dimensions:
Diameter 41.80mm, thickness : 11.20mm without crystals, 16.20mm total

Crystal:
Box sapphire crystal with anti reflexion coating on both sides

Dial:
Anthracite, domed, indexes with luminous material (Superluminova)

Hands:
Hours and Minutes with luminous material (Superluminova)

Water Resistance:
50m, 5ATM

Case back:
Stainless Steel, numbered with box sapphire crystal, anti-reflection coating

Weight:
On genuine black alligator leather strap mounted on decorated steel folding clasp, 120g


Monday, May 21, 2018

The Submarine Commander

From Tavannes -

Courtesy of Tavannes
This is an anniversary model from 2017.  Per Tavannes, the Submarine Commander was born from a request by two British submarine commanders during the Great War.  They needed a watch that would keep water out, be anti-magnetic, and a bold, highly legible face.  The case measures 41 mm in diameter, and is of stainless steel.  The movement is ETA's 2824-2 std.

Hours, minutes, seconds, date.  Water resistant to 100 meters / 330 feet.

Upon closer examination of the website, it appears that Tavannes watches are available in the US, but I was unable to find further info for locations outside the US.  Also worth noting, it appears that one of the key people involved in Tavannes is the President of the North American side, which at last report was Bruce Cummings, with the North American HQ being in Pennsylvania.  

It is nice to see Tavannes back in business, and it will be interesting to see what develops.



 

 


Saturday, May 19, 2018

30 Years Later

What constantly baffles me, and I feel that I can say this as a former (15 - 16 years) resident of California, why the Tour of California fails to deliver on its promise.  It is, sorry to say, a low rent option to the races that tend to run at the same time.  And this year it is coinciding with the Giro d’Italia.  While the Giro does tend to reside in the shadow of the Tour de France, in many ways it is a better race.  It's a bit more unpredictable.  The organizers tend to create a race that defies the preconceived notions of how a stage race should be laid out.  And that is what makes it so great.

This year also marks 30 years since American Andy Hampsten defied the odds and with his fellow journeymen from 7-Eleven, crept up the Gavia Pass in a near blizzard, and claimed the Maglia Rosa (that's pink jersey to you).  And where this all ties together with watches?  He and the entire 7-Eleven team wore watches from Tag Heuer.


So while the folks at Tag feel that sponsoring a (I'm sorry, but I've got to be honest here) truly hideous looking best young rider's jersey at a B level race and not sending any press about it is a better use of their marketing and pr money and efforts, I thought I would pick up the ball and air out this repeat. 


Remembering my First Tag Heuer and Team 7-ELEVEN

The year was 1990.  I was in my final year at the University of Oregon, and was visiting my father over the summer break.  I had one more term to go, and two days before I was set to head back to Eugene, my Bullova watch pooped out.  Trying to find someone capable of changing the battery was on par with finding an honest politician - it just didn't seem to be possible.  So on what must have been the fifth attempt to get a battery changed with no success, I looked down in the display case and saw what would become my first Swiss watch.  The Tag Heuer Formula 1, circa 1990.


I realize that we all had different introductions to Tag Heuer, and this was mine.  And out of necessity, a passion was born.

I have shamelessly borrowed this advertisement image from Calibre 11 - not directly Calibre 11, it was pulled-up via a Google search for images.  Hope you don't mind ; )
All of the models in this ad were available, but the one that went home with me was the third from the left, the red case, green strap and bezel - or as I came to refer to it - the 7-ELEVEN Tag Heuer Watch!
Borrowed shamelessly from the internet
Andy Hampsten and the 7-ELEVEN team were my cycling idols in the 80s.

And he was the first American winner of the Giro D'Italia back in 1988.
Courtesy, clearly, of someone else!
And the Tag Heuer connection to cycling (and my passion) went even further and was clearly shared by others, including one of the main voices of Tour de France television coverage today (at least here in the US) Bob Roll, a team mate of Hampsten's on team 7-ELEVEN.

Bob Roll on the left, Andy Hampsten on the right

Bob, or "Bobke" as he is often known is perhaps my all-time favorite cyclist.  Not because of his many wins in big-time races... let's face it, there weren't many!

Shamelessly borrowed
But Bob, Andy and the rest of the 7-ELEVEN team perhaps best embodied what Tag-Heur's motto is today - they did NOT "Crack under pressure".  No matter what the odds, Bobke put it all out there!

Courtesy of, clearly, someone else
Apart from Hampsten, and Davis Phinney, they were a team made up of journeymen dreamers.  Riders who had a sort of, "what the Hell, let's give it a go" attitude.  Keep in mind, this was the era of a certain fellow known as "the Badger" and a host of other cycling GODs.  But these guys threw their hats in the ring and gave it a go.  And in an age where US cyclists were viewed more as amateurs, they came to Europe and impressed the Europeans.

I got to meet one of my heroes in person when I was working for DOXA Watches and we presented him with a  Yellow DOXA Divingstar in San Francisco -



My identification with Tag Heuer went beyond just the 7-ELEVEN connection.  It was clearly a great brand with a great watch, but like team 7-ELEVEN people didn't just take that at face value.  Tag Heuer had to put in a lot of time and effort to get where they are today.

Friday, May 18, 2018

The Marine Torpilleur Farfetch

From Ulysse Nardin -

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin
Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -


Ulysse Nardin has chosen Farfetch.com for its first online launch, and presents a special edition of the blue Marine Torpilleur, exclusively available on the website of the international online luxury retailer. This new piece, with a subtly crafted dial, joins the ranks of the popular Marine Torpilleur that was launched in 2017 and is initially available in two more classic versions: a white dial with black indexes and a blue dial with white indexes. On the FARFETCH MARINE TORPILLEUR, you will find layered pink gold coloring. Sober and elegant, it gives a more refined look to the piece overall, accentuating the contrast with the 42 mm steel case. The pink gold brings out the dial’s shimmering, iconic blue. In the same vein, the pear-shaped hands are no longer rhodiumized, but pink gold colored. The power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock is no longer in vermeil red, but also made of pink gold, as is the case for the date of the Le Locle Manufacture’s creation, 1846. The indexes have a small additional touch: the immaculate white has been discreetly transformed into light gray, to soften the dial’s overall look.

This new FARFETCH MARINE TORPILLEUR, available with a leather, steel or rubber strap, completes a collection which is already a best-seller. This new addition to the permanent collection, only available online, now forms part of the troop of Torpilleurs.

References: 

1183-310/43-RG
 

Movement: 
Caliber UN-118, 13 ¾‘’’ Manufacture Movement 
Oscillator: Patented inertial balance wheel I 10 with silicium hairspring
Power reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Automatic

Functions:

C.O.S.C. chronometer with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock.
Direct small seconds and large date at 6 o’clock.
Front and back date corrector.

Case:
Stainless steel

Bezel:
Stainless steel

Dial:

Blue with pale gray roman numerals

Crown:
Screw-down

Diameter:

42 mm

Water resistance:
50 m

Crystal:
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating

Back:

Sapphire

Strap:
Leather / stainless steel / rubber with a folding clasp






Thursday, May 17, 2018

Richemont Drops the Baume


Courtesy of Baume
Baume is a new brand spun out by Richemont this past week.  And I have to be very honest here - this was a beautiful, wonderful idea.  A watch brand that sought to position itself as a less flamboyant, more down to earth enterprise that would work hard to embrace eco-friendly ideals, that was, sadly, not executed very well.  If we are to take the concept of Baume at face (or PR pitch) value, it is meant to be a less expensive watch collection that speaks to Millennials and/or hipsters due to it's (by comparison) low entry level price and purported goal to offer an "upcycled" watch that contains potentially recycled and environmentally friendly materials.  And in principle, again, I love the idea. 

Sadly, the execution is lacking, and the actual communication of the brand and its ethos is not helping.  Hand to heart, word to God - I really do love the idea.  But, unfortunately, it is just that...  
a very charming, (we hope) sincere idea.  But it is also one that underscores what is really wrong with the watch industry as a whole, and the big groups in particular - FEAR.  Fear that if you take even a moderate stand (no more crocodile or alligator skins) you will suddenly lose market share.  Fear that if you try anything different with your established brand, you will lose market share.  Fear that if you take an existing brand, and try to help it rediscover where it was always meant to be (a more realistic price point), you will lose market share.

Baume & Mercier could very easily have said - "You know what?  Those videos of the poor animals being skinned alive to make handbags and watch straps and shoes that will be thrown away after one year were pretty bad.  How about we say that we won't use that material for our watch straps any longer?  We can still use leather, but let's do things that are elegant and ethical?"  

And in truth, that is a tone that not just Richemont, but every brand could take.  

But getting back to Baume, the price points while low for Richemont, are startling steep for the watch itself.  This is brought into sharp focus when considering that $560 buys the quartz (Ronda) versions, and nearly double that will get you the "Iconic"  41 mm automatic version (Miyota).  And this was another particularly baffling choice given the glut of Swiss mvts. currently available, and is somewhat anathema to the notion of cutting down on carbon footprints created by unnecessary shipping.  Unless Citizen is now manufacturing movements in the European Economic Community ; )

Customization is a big part of the marketing pitch as well.  And if I am being fairly honest, it is not really as diverse as it could be, and I while I did search for automatic version customization options, I was only able to select from Quartz options.

I am trying to imagine what the pitch meeting was like to come up with this brand concept.  My suspicion is that comparisons were drawn to some truly interesting micro brands that are using Miyota.  And I have no doubt reference was made to Daniel Wellington. 

I guess what this all boils down to me is what I can best describe as a "test case" for Richemont.  Not tons of effort on the press communication front (granted, outlet X got their usual exclusive and gave the anticipated levels of appropriate praise), but otherwise, not a lot of chatter.  

Baume is, in many ways, trying to approach two markets.  The Daniel Wellington crowd, and the idealist.  Both are very real, very tangible markets, but (forgive the pun) only time will tell if this test balloon flies.

Wednesday, May 16, 2018

JUVO's Limited Edition Watch Boxes

Something fun to keep your watches in!

Courtesy of Juvo

Already known and appreciated for their winders, Juvo has taken the next step with their new series of watch boxes.  Some with a fun element, such as one dedicated to your pilot's watches (above and below) -

Courtesy of Juvo

And one for the desk divers out there -

Courtesy of Juvo

Both boxes are born out of a collaboration with Teun van Heerebeek of Watches and Pencils.  The box above features a Desk Diver illustration, and the one above it is with a Red Baron (Flieger) illustration. 

Both the boxes are limited to 100 pieces each, and retail price is $299 USD. 


 


The Return of Siduna!


I have been very lucky over the years spent writing the Tempus Fugit blog in that I have had the very rare and real joy of meeting some wonderful people and learning about their projects.  And this latest project that relaunches the Siduna brand is something that reaffirms my passion for what I do.

Courtesy of Siduna
Siduna is now based in Landskrona, Sweden and will be offering some really good looking chronographs. 


Courtesy of Siduna

Their first launch is due to hit in November (I believe) and will offer two versions,  the M3440UC Professional Uni-compax Chronograph, and the M3440FB Professional Flyback Chronograph.
 
Courtesy of Siduna

Both models are currently in pre-order status and slated for delivery in November of this year.  

The case measures 42 mm in diameter, is of satin brushed austenic stainless steel. bi-compax layout and and 60 minute bezel.  The movement is Swiss, self-winding.

More to come shortly, stay tuned!





 

Tuesday, May 15, 2018

Reverso

A classic is a classic for a reason ; )

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre
Trends come and go, but the Reverso is perhaps that one watch that continues to capture my imagination.  This is the Classic Large, Small Seconds from Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Here are the pertinents:

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre : 822/2
Case : Stainless Steel, Water-resistance : 3 bar, Dimensions (L x W) : 45.6 X 27.4mm, Thickness : 8.5mm
Functions : Hour - Minute, , Seconds
Recto Hands Bâton
Movement : Manual-winding, Components : 108, Vibrations per hour : 21600, Jewels : 19, Barrel : 1, Height : 2.94 mm
Dial : Silvered, Guilloché, vertically brushed, Arabic numerals
Strap/bracelet Leather



Monday, May 14, 2018

The Sous-Marine

From LAVENTURE -

Courtesy of LAVENTURE
The sophomore effort from LAVENTURE is a diver, available with rubber or two different leather options.  It is available in steel or bronze - 

Courtesy of LAVENTURE
 And in two additional dial options including blue -

Courtesy of LAVENTURE

Courtesy of LAVENTURE

And black -

Courtesy of LAVENTURE

Courtesy of LAVENTURE

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Case

Materials : Bronze CuSn8 or Stainless Steel
Diameter : 41mm
Thickness : 10.20 mm (without glass)
Bezel : Unidirectional rotating 120 clicks with light capsule
Crown : Screwed for a better seal
Glass : Domed sapphire type "Superdome" internal anti-reflective coating
Bottom : Solid bottom for better sealing in Stainless Steel
Manufacturing: Switzerland



Dial

Textures : Black Galvanic
Indexes : Wide-bore type "Maxi Dial" for better readability
Needles : Polished Golden Coated with beige luminescent deposit « vintage »
Manufacturing: Switzerland  

Movement
Manufacturer : ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse
Model : 2824-2
Finish : TOP Grade : set and adjusted on 5 positions
Winding : Automatic winding ball bearing
Power reserve : 38 hours
Number of jewels : 25
Spiral Spring : Anachron
Barrel Spring : Nivarox NZ
Balance Wheel : Glucydur
Shock absorber : Incablock
Frequency : 28,800 A / h (4 Hz)
Manufacturing : Switzerland


3,300 CHF for the stainless steel, 3,600 CHF for bronze

Sunday, May 13, 2018

Back to the Future -

With Humbert-Droz!

Courtesy of Humbert-Droz
I had pretty much sworn off of writing about Kickstarters, but every once in a while, something truly special comes along.

Courtesy of Hunbert-Droz 
This is the HD4.  

Courtesy of Humbert-Droz
It is available in four color variations:  Onyx, Steel, Wood, and my personal favorite -

Courtesy of Humbert-Droz
 Emerald!

The case is stainless steel, measuring 40 mm across and 35 mm top to bottom (the case, not including the lugs.

The movement is truly special, Bernhard FÖRSTER, a German movement resurrected from the past and put to use in this digital time machine.  The watch is assembled in one of my all time favorite places, Besançon!

The Kickstarter rewards focus primarily on the watch itself, starting at €519 for the HD4 with a leather strap.

Should you be so inclined, check it out here -

Thursday, May 10, 2018

At the Risk of Sounding Mean...

So... 

earth-shattering news:

MADS MIKKELSEN SPOTTED ON RED CARPET AT CANNES
                                WEARING ULYSSE NARDIN MASTERPIECE !

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin (and apparently Getty Images)
Here's the thing, the whole "spotted on the red carpet" is the PR equivalent of fastening a pork chop around your kid's neck to get the dog to play with him.  

If he (the star in question) is a true fan and collector?  Do a story about him, not just what he opted to plop on his wrist for an event.  Maybe he is a true UN fan!  Wouldn't that be a great story line?

Why is simply saying "spotted on the red carpet" sometimes a red herring?  Because the public has seen enough programs on BRAVO TV (like the Rachel Zoe Project) to know that a watch may indeed be the choice of the red carpet "walkee", or just as often the choice of a stylist.  It gets harder and harder to know in this instafamous period we are all currently living in.

As an actor?  I quite like the work that Mr. Mikkelsen has done.  He is engaging, charismatic, and a unique presence in the films he has taken part in.  His turn in Casino Royale put me off of gambling for life.  

I know that watches need to be sold, and in order to be sold, they need to be seen.  But wouldn't it be great if every brand could take a page out of Rolex's book?  Elegant, understated partnerships that make sense, reinforce the product as well as the partner?  

More and more, we are looking for something sincere.  Big, glamorous events, whether contrived or spontaneous are more and more looked upon as anything but reality, and a million miles away from what any normal person might ever aspire to.  Red carpet events are, by their very nature, exclusive.  So why try to further that notion by announcing your product at a red carpet event?  It's the Kardashians meets Paris Hilton - hype and self-promotion/self-importance due to wealth, or notoriety, or both.

And most of all, honestly?  Who cares?

If UN wants to sponsor a great charitable event, count me in, I will cover it.  If they want to spend $25,000 - $30,000 to build a school in an impoverished area?  I will pay my own airfare to go and cover it.  

But red carpet "spottings"?  

I think we can do better.


The Classic SBB

From Mondaine -

Courtesy of Mondaine

I got a chance to see this new collection at BaselWorld back in March.  Contrary to popular belief, for many of us who write about watches, it is not all about high-dollar, high complication fervor.

Courtesy of Mondaine
What makes the latest moves by Mondaine special is their adherence to their design codes while branching out and offering a twist to long established collections.  I have always liked the SBB series, but I have, at times, found it a bit hide-bound in it's look and feel.  So with the release of the SBB Essence (same great look with wonderfully earth-friendly materials) and this new Classic SBB in three new color options, it seems that Mondaine is not sitting on its past but using it as a base and moving forward.

Courtesy of Mondaine

Available in two sizes, a smaller 36 mm and a 40 mm.  The movement is a Ronda Quartz, and is water resistant to 30 meters/100 feet.

 

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

The Marinier Automatic

From Lip -


Courtesy of Lip
39 mm of polished stainless steel, display back, water resistant to 200 meters.  The movement is Miyota's 820A.

The retail?  A very attractive 449 Euro.

 

Monday, May 7, 2018

An Open Letter to PR Firms

Relationships and contact lists...

are not the same thing.

As I currently stand on both sides of the watch communication game, I am often surprised if not downright bewildered by the approaches some PR firms make.   It is safe to say that you will not know every journalist/blogger/influencer out there.  I live under absolutely no illusions that Tempus Fugit is on the tips of PR firms' tongues, particularly ones that typically specialize in 
fashion ; )

Having said that...

When you are "courting" your would-be clients, may I suggest that you do not claim to have thousands of contacts, that in fact, you don't.  May I further suggest that you do not buy and sell contact lists? Not only is it unethical, it's also a waste of both you and your client's time and money.  When you buy a list you have bought just that, a list.  People come and go out of the industry. Odd as it may seem, pr and communication are, in fact, people businesses.  Owing to that, there is that pesky need for a relationship at at least some basic level.  

It is very, very easy to understand the attraction for a brand to hire an agency.  And some are certainly very good.  BUT - when you (the agency) are charging $3,500 and up per client, you can afford to take the time to do your OWN homework, develop your own list, and try to do more than simply send emails to strangers.

Or, you can keep doing it the same way you always have.