What's In A Name?

And when Kickstarter's revolving door of compliance hits your ass on the way out.

Okay, confession time - I have NEVER participated in a Kickstarter project apart from two times that I donated money to help a friend make their goal. Particularly so in a watch project. I still have fairly vivid memories of when the first Kloker's Kickstarter dragged on and on. Several supporters getting their watches nearly a year after the project ended, and frankly a not so warm and fuzzy outcome as many of the watch cases were defective (plastic cases with the metal-like coating peeling away).

Ultimately the company failed, although their Kickstarter launch absolutely made their first few years much more successful fiscally, and probably helped keep them alive after the initial investment from larger backers had been burned through.

But what happens when confidence (perhaps inflated) gets confronted with reality? And that brings us to today's topic - Argon. Without getting into too many particulars about the two partners behind the nascent brand, the sudden removal of Argon from Kickstarter does serve as a cautionary tale for every other would-be watch entrepreneur about the importance of dotting all "i"s and crossing all "t"s. After raising over one million George Washington Dollars for their Spaceone watch, the virtual funding rug was unceremoniously yanked out from under Argon's feet. 

Why?

Long story somewhat shortened:

Although some details are as yet to be fully fleshed out, there is an intellectual property dispute. For those of you unfamiliar - you can absolutely send in the paperwork to register a name. But with that said, that is only the first step. There is a lengthy process that (at least in the US) takes months, not weeks. Here in the lower 48, your trade mark registration can be denied for any number of reasons by the feds in DC. 

Argon or Aragon?

And then this fun factoid, a brand known as Aragon appears to have planted their flag first in Watch Town. Curious to relate? They also had a successful Kickstarter back in...

2018!

And needless to say, one thing might have absolutely nothing to do with the other.

So whether this intellectual property dispute is merely at the Kickstarter level, or if it is deeper problem is something that we will have to do a "wait and see" on.

What is known is that the two young men behind Argon have informed backers that Kickstarter has halted their project and is holding onto the funds. They also state that they have retained legal representation here in the US of A. 

And here is where, unfortunately, the folks who put up their money to back the project are now presented with the fuzzy end of the lollipop. 

It is a fun watch design, and it clearly had a lot of support from individuals wanting to have one. 

Is there a solution? Of course there is, but it will require something beyond simply retaining legal representation. Mediation would be advisable, as it creates an opportunity to resolve the dispute more elegantly. 

So we shall wait, and we shall see... maybe.

SNGLRTY - This Is Not A Watch Review

I recently had the opportunity to wear the SNGLRTY  Desert Sunset for a few days -

So as the title informs you, this is not a watch review, but you will get my feedback on the SNGLRTY Desert Sunset.

For those of you just tuning in, SNGLRTY launched through a crowd funding effort a few years back. The brand currently offers 2 models one with a date function which uses the Ohi-4 module configuration, and one without which uses the Ohi-2 module configuration. The Desert Sunset does not have a date and uses the Ohi-2:

Module & Movement

MODULE	OHI2 time adjustment
BASE MOVEMENT	SELLITA SW200-1 Standard Execution
OHI MOVEMENT SIZE	25.6mm Diameter, 4.6mm Height
FREQUENCY	28’800 A/h (4Hz)
POWER RESERVE	38 Hours
NUMBER OF JEWELS	26

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40.5 mm in diameter and is 12.2 mm thick -

For me this offered a good size and fit -

In terms of design, I have to say that overall I like it. In terms of the "outside" of the watch, my only disagreement is that the case lugs utilize hex key screws to secure the strap -

I know and appreciate that there are folks out there who love feeling like they are "handy" using tools to remove and attach their own straps. And I accept that this is a personal choice from my side - I simply can't be bothered. To this end whenever I get straps made by Lic I always request quick spring bars. (Publisher's note - James Henderson has worked with Lic straps in the past to help promote them in the US. While he does not currently distribute Lic straps, Tempus Fugit believes it is important to fully disclose this previous relationship).

As far as the strap and buckle goes, they are absolutely first class!  Very comfortable and well made.

Needless to say, the movement has a staring role with this watch. I like single-handed watches and am the proud owner of a MeisterSinger. That being said, the actual mechanics behind the SNGLRTY and its patented module have taken the ideas governing single handed watches to a whole new level. The SNGLRTY watches offer the wearer a much more accurate read on time as the minutes are displayed within the ring at the tip of the hour hand as the minute ring circles counter clockwise as the hour hand circles clockwise. 

You won't be reading about all of the technicalities here - remember, this is Tempus Fugit ; ).  Suffice it to say, I think it offers something truly different than what has come before it. And add into the bargain that you have the opportunity to customize a SNGLRTY to your own design (within the constraints of the SNGLRTY customizer anyway).

For me, this is about more than a watch. It is a very interesting story about two guys who probably could have picked better ways to obsess, fret, get frustrated, and ultimately succeed than making a brand new concept for a micro brand. But that's what makes the story great. 

The Duality of Henki

Roving around Indeed yesterday, I stumbled upon this -

Courtesy of SNGLRTY

For those of you tuning in from outside of the US, yesterday was significant here for reasons other than American Football. But with that said, it also served as a reminder that life moves forward, nothing is permanent and the only constant that you can guarantee is change. And to prove that point, my alma mater (the Ducks) waddled out of the fabled Horseshoe in Columbus, Ohio victorious! We have played Ohio State before, and suffice it to say, we have lost...not infrequently ; )

On a personal note, I grew up in Ohio, but opted to attend university in Oregon. At the time (late 80s), a football game was not something to be taken seriously in terms of winning and losing. No offense to my U of O generation of footballing Ducks, but those games were more like men against boys - and Oregon were the boys in that scenario.  

So needless to say, SNGLRTY's Linkedin post grabbed my attention as if it were composed just for this Northern Youth.

In case you missed it in the past, SNGLRTY (as far as I know) started life as a Kickstarter project and dropped a few years back. The concept is pretty straightforward - a patented one-hand watch that can be customized by the owner.

This is the Black Hornet (love the name!) -

Courtesy of SNGLRTY

The case is of stainless steel, measuring 40.5 mm in diameter. The movement is the Sellita SW200-1 imbued with super powers by an OH12 time adjustment. 

Courtesy of SNGLRTY

Curious to relate, when you Google OH12 time adjustment you get information on daylight savings time adjustment in... Ohio.

Spooky!

Priced at $2,470.00 Inc. VAT
It's a pretty drip take on a one-hander, and for those of you as intrigued as yours truly, here are the pertinents -

Module & Movement

MODULE
OHI2 time adjustment

BASE MOVEMENT
SELLITA SW200-1 Standard Execution

OHI MOVEMENT SIZE
25.6mm Diameter, 4.6mm Height

FREQUENCY
28’800 A/h (4Hz)

POWER RESERVE
38 Hours

NUMBER OF JEWELS
26


WINDING
Automatic & Manual Winding

SHOCK ABSORBER
Novodiac

BALANCE WHEEL
Gilt

MIDDLE RATE
+/- 12 seconds per day

ISOCHRONISM
+/- 20 seconds per day

FINISH
Standard with Smoothed Decoration on Rotor


Watch Case

SIZE
40.50mm Diameter, total height 12.20 mm (without crystal 11.95 mm), 47.00mm Total Length

MATERIAL
Stainless Steel 1.4404

WATER RESISTANCE
10 ATM (100m)

CRYSTAL
Flat Sapphire Crystal, 1.50mm thick, with 7 Layers Anti-reflection Coating on Both Sides, additional Hard-Coating on Exterior Side

CASE-BACK
Integrated Domed Mineral Crystal Opening Secured with 4 Hex Key Screws. SNGLRTY Logo printed in Red on Crystal

BAND ATTACHMENT
2 Visible Hex Key Screws for 21mm Band Width

The MOTION Automatic 24

This is one of the first offerings of a new brand from France, SYE -

Courtesy of SYE

After a successful crowdfunding effort, the SYE MOTION Automatic 24 is now ready to meet the general public.  Assembled in Besançon, and shipped around the world.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40.55 mm in diameter.  The movement is the Miyota 8217, which provides hours, minutes, seconds and a 24 hour indicator.

Courtesy of SYE

But for me, one of the most intriguing aspects is the strap system which allows for a quick strap change with the use of a casebook tool.  The look is not entirely dissimilar to the original Omega Dynamic.

Courtesy of SYE

Here are the pertinents -

CASE
Material: stainless steel 316L
Construction: 5-part case construction
Crystal: scratch-resistant & AR coated sapphire
Caseback: Fastback™ system
Water resistance: 50 meters (5 ATM)


DIMENSIONS
Diameter: 40,5mm
Width (incl crown): 43,5mm
Thickness : 13,4mm
Weight: 100g (3,53 oz) approx.


DIAL
Colors: Silver or Smoky grey brushed steel dial
Functions: hour, minute, second, date, 24h sub-dial
Hands: diamond shape with Superluminova™ coating


STRAP
Fastback™ Premium strap among 10 variations
Lining: full grain Italian calf in SYE blue
Stitches: constrasting stitches
Buckle: brushed stainless steel deployment buckle
Length: 120/80mm (long/short strap)


MOVEMENT
Type: automatic mechanical movement
Caliber: Miyota 8217
Jewels: 21 jewels
Frequency: 21 600 alternances / hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Warranty: 2 years

Best in Show 2019 - The Email Jour/Nuit Antoine Tavan 1805 - Part 1

Now despite my aversion to "buying guides" and "My Top Picks" articles, I do think that from time to time there are some pieces that hit a nerve, in the best possible way.

I was fortunate to be get an "advance-screening" of the Email Jour/Nuit. I explained carefully to the brand's owner and creative "Guardo Camino" Roger Zarzoso that once the watch was on Kickstarter, I could not write any sort of review until after the Kickstarter phase was concluded.  

Well, after a successful Kickstarter campaign, I can now pull back the curtains and give you my thoughts.  I am off to the center now - the students won't teach themselves ; ).   But I will be back this afternoon to give you the straight skinny.

Stay tuned!

Done, But Not Finished!

Courtesy of Done

It is possible that you have already heard of them, but in case you haven't this is DONE.  This may seem like an unusual name for a watch brand, but the story behind it is compelling.

Per their website:

How to find a name that best defines the image that the founder wants to give to his watches, to his philosophy ? The process may look simple but is in fact terribly difficult.

It is while discussing about his watches around him that he realizes that his project is for him more than a dream, it is an accomplishment. The need to be able to say one day with pride, i realised my dream, i made it to the end « it’s done ».

That is how the name « Done » came out of the dark for the first time.

The name « DONE WATCHES » has a double signification, because it represents not just the personal challenge of making it to the end of your ideas « It’s DONE » but also to be associated to the birth region of this adventure, Neuchâtel, « DO » in « NE »

But back to the watches -

Courtesy of DONE

This is the MECHANICA C03. 

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter.  Hours, minutes, seconds and a very visible date.  The movement is the SW400.  So it is safe to say that DONE will not be done-in by a lack of ETA 2824s ; )


And finally, the price - CHF 495!  This is a "coming attraction" and my understanding is that deliveries will start just about BaselWorld time next year - April/May 2020.

Riskers

As they have now completed their Kickstarter fundraising, I can now write about them ; )

Courtesy of RISKERS

This is the PROLOG 1.

Like all of the watches RISKERS has put forth so far (prototypes and designs), the PROLOG 1 bears the unmistakable design of an early 20th Century trench watch.    Or in some ways, not unlike a modern Ralph Lauren design, it is the designer's interpretation as to what that watch might have looked like, reinterpreted for today.  And that's okay.

Courtesy of RISKERS

So let's get into it.  The case measures 43 mm in diameter and 12.35 mm thick and is of stainless steel.  It also boasts a solid case back, which I appreciate.

Courtesy of RISKERS

The crown guard is fixed so the crown is protected. Not having handled one of these myself, I assume that there is sufficient play to get the crown moving and set and wind the watch.

The movement is a self-winding STP, is Swiss Made, boasting a power reserve of approximately 44 hours.  Hours, minutes, central seconds,  and date at 3.  And I am a fan of the date window.  

Now, let's go into the good, the bad, and the perhaps the not-so-well thought out in terms of the messaging.

The Good - RISKERS is supporting L’Œuvre nationale du Bleuet de France .

In RISKERS' own words -

«L’Œuvre nationale du Bleuet de France» is a recognized public service association, which since 1991 is under the authority of the «Office National des Anciens Combattants et Victimes de Guerre» (The National Office of Veterans and War Victims). Its role is to raise funds to finance social work that helps veterans, war widows, wards of the State, soldiers wounded in peacekeeping operations and victims of terrorism.

«Bleuet de France» also supports soldiers currently deployed in military operations: they participated in the initiative «Christmas parcels for soldiers in Opex» and they also takes part in remembrance activities for school children by contributing financially to trips to war memorials. 

As regular readers of Tempus Fugit will note, we appreciate charitable giving.

The Bad - In fairness, this is strictly my opinion.  I am exhausted by the efforts of watch brands to latch onto the bravery and valor of soldiers and draft some sort of heroics by association.  Now don't get me wrong, I work in marketing, I get the power of messaging.  I am just saying that RISKERS (and others) don't need to try so hard to hit that particular point.  The watches are good looking, and they say much more without the overt reach.

The Ill-Advised - Gonna' get a bit personal here.  My mother's third husband (and my fourth faux-father figure) was a teacher (as my wife and I were at the time), as was his son.  And whenever he spoke about his son, he would say - "My son, who has a Master's Degree".  It was more than a little douchey.  Finally, my wife Wendy interjected - "yeah, James has a few graduate qualifications himself".  To which step-father number 2 said, rather surprised:  "I didn't know that".  And the reason is simple - I don't feel so insecure that I feel the need to "over-share" it.

Why do two of the founders feel the need to constantly repeat the fact that they used to work for Richemont?  Who cares?  And given the current state of the Big Boy watch market and what may, or may not be coming down the pike for Richemont and other brands, that might not be a boasting point.

Don't get me wrong, I think RISKERS has a very solid debut watch, and I think if they can get their messaging right and speed up their turn around - this has been a launch that will have been in the works for over a year before they finally deliver the first batch - per Kickstarter the estimated delivery is in late June, 2020.

So let's see where they go from here.  I like the effort to support a good cause, it is a good looking watch.  If they can just refine the message and boil away some of the hyperbole?  They're off to the races!

Summer Repeat - How David Is Kicking Goliath's Ass

This one was first put out nearly 3 years ago (August 28, 2016 to be exact).  I have spent the last year focusing more on helping smaller brands with marketing and PR and judging by how they are starting to grow, I feel that this post was on the money.  So nearly three years later, I thought it might be interesting to re-heat this one.  Now when I first wrote this, I simply went on the idea that if 100 brands sold 100 watches, wouldn't you like to have that business?  But given the gains that some of these brands are making, I am thinking that the business model needs to shift.

The days when you picked a watch based on the brand that made it are rapidly disappearing in the rear view mirror.  Some of these upstarts are selling several hundreds of pieces per year, and if they stay focused it might even grow beyond.

But the key to the success of these giant killers is the understanding that being small, quick and nimble are key factors in their success.  

I had a conversation with a big brand manager (American) at BaselWorld this year where he sort of turned up his nose, saying that "some of these brands don't even assemble their own watches!"  I started laughing and he asked me what was so funny.  I replied - "Neither does your brand!  I've visited an assembler where I've seen several of your brand's collection being assembled."

Let's just say didn't go down so well ; )

So here once again, gentle reader -

How David is Kicking Goliath's Ass - Or what micro brands could teach the big dogs

Now you might recall back in the early days of Tempus Fugit I waxed lyrical as to the difference between real brands and "vanity" or "dentist" brands.  My point being that there was a clear difference between what a real brand did and what a "hobbyist" did.  Well, I am about to take almost all of that back, with the caveat that there is indeed a difference between what a big brand does vs. what a hobbyist does - but perhaps not in the manner that you might think.

Over the past few years there have been an overwhelming number of watch start-ups out there vying for our attention via Facebook, Kickstarter and just about every other means of social media engagement.  In doing some research for a few clients, I got to 85 and had to quit because the number of micro brands that I had not yet listed far exceeded the 85 that I already had committed to my Excel spreadsheet.  It is safe to say that there will be no shortage of micro brand start ups in the foreseeable future.

In an interesting parallel, the number of "big boy" brands that are out there has begun to stagnate, and we will, I am fairly certain, see some unhappy "obituary" announcements in the coming months.  While it is a bit of a necessity to adjust the sails of your boat to accommodate the prevailing winds, many of the bigger brands are still sailing along as if the winds are wrong, and only they are right, and they are getting closer to the rocks every day.

What the micro brands demonstrate loud and clear is perhaps the most important idea that the other "established" brands don't seem to understand:

Connecting to your customer is fundamental.  

This is, believe it or not, the single biggest take away from the explosions of micro brands.  Think about it a minute, how is it that someone from outside of the industry, working (usually) completely alone can harness a few hundred strangers from out in the cold to get excited about a watch that doesn't yet exist, from a brand that (at least in the beginning) is nothing more than hope and optimism?

And I'm sure that the big brands are thinking who cares?  Small numbers!  Well, If I just go by some basic presumptions:

Let's, for the purposes of argument, assume that the total number of active micro brands out there is 100.  And again, just spit-balling here, put the number of units sold annually at 100 each.  So now that you have done the math, it is safe to assume that is a pretty good number.

And keep in mind that these folks are doing this without multiple layers of VPs, directors, managers, staffers and interns.  Several brands would kill to get 10,000 new customers, and they have more resources than can be imagined.  Yet they are still unable to focus on the most important thing that drives the possible growth of their business - connecting with past, current and future customers.

Let's see if any of the bigger brands are paying attention, or if they are asleep at the switch.

Things Were Great, Until They Weren't - Klokers

Courtesy of Klokers

News reached the North Shore offices of Tempus Fugit that Klokers has ceased operations as of yesterday - July 2, 2019.  

This announcement was sent from Klokers HQ:

Dear Partner, You have been supported klokers for the past 5 years and we would like to thank you warmly. We are proud of the innovative watches we have created for passionate Time Travelers. Your contribution helped us to develop the whole concept and the brand. We owe you transparency and therefore we inform you that klokers has been through major difficulties.  We have done our best over the last few months to allow this fantastic adventure to keep going but we are sorry to inform you about the ceasing of the activity as of July 2nd, 2019. It has been a pleasure working with you, Best regards The klokers team

And their Facebook page reported this:

We are sorry to inform you that the klokers adventure has come to its end.
Many of you have been following us and adopted the klokers’ attitude and we are proud of it.

If you are the owner of a klokers and need information about your KLOK-01 or KLOK-08, please refer to our instructions on https://bit.ly/2FPpegd.

We would like to warmly thank you for your support over the past 5 years and wish your watch may live at your wrist as long as possible.

About Kickstarter

A friendly note to folks getting ready to launch with a Kickstarter campaign -

Following some less-than-positive feedback from people who have bought Kickstarter watches and have taken the time to reach out and share their disappointment, the following policy is now in place:

No further promotion, dissemination, etc. of Kickstarter announcements until AFTER the campaign is completed, or I have seen, handled, tried-on and worn a prototype.  

Sorry, but I am getting too many messages from frustrated people who are feeling let-down. 

Isotope Palloncino di Perle Kickstarter

I received word about the Isotope Kickstarter campaign.
Isotope is a fairly new brand that launched a few years back. Their new watch is the Isotope Palloncino di Perle. 

Should you be so interested, the Kickstarter campaign can be found here:

ISOTOPE Kickstarter

The Palloncino di Perle will be available in three different versions:


Black 

Courtesy of Isotope

White 
 

Courtesy of Isotope

Brown

Courtesy of Isotope

Per Isotope:

The Palloncino de Perle will retail for £149 (sterling), but those participating in the Kickstarter campaign will have the opportunity to get an Isotope Palloncino di Perle for a very attractive price saving up to 40% off the retail price.


Here are the pertinents -

Palloncino de Perle Specifications:

• 38mm Original Stainless Steel case
  
• Water Resistant up to 50 Metres/5 ATM
  
• Sapphire Crystal (Scratch resistant)
  
• Sandwich dial with central balloon shape in Mother of Pearl
  
• Austrian Stone at 6 o’clock over White, Black or Brown Sunburst Dial
  
• Isotope hands with Luminova for night reading
  
• Quick Release Leather Strap with signed Butterfly Clasp
  
• Italian Mesh bracelet (available as option)
  
• Swiss Made Quartz movement (Slimtech Ronda 1069)
  
• Battery life: 25 to 34 months
  

The Humanium Metal Initiative and TRIWA

TRIWA of Stockholm (one of my all-time favorite places to visit) is doing something pretty cool with a new Kickstarter project.  They have created a new watch made of Humanium.

Courtesy of TRIWA

So what is Humanium?

Courtesy of Humanium

Humanium is a new product that is created by taking illegal weapons (it is VERY important to make this point - ILLEGAL weapons, NOT LEGAL) that have been seized, dismantling them, melting down the steel parts and creating a new ingot.  

Courtesy of Humanium

That ingot is then sold to manufacturing companies who use it in the same way they might otherwise use steel.  Proceeds are then re-directed back to the very communities that have been impacted by the injury/loss of life created by the (AGAIN, STRESSING) ILLEGAL weapons.  Sort of a reverse circle of life and death.

In their own words -

In short

Humanium Metal by IM is a new material made of recycled metal from gun destruction programs which are then made available for commercial production.
All products made with Humanium Metal create new sources of funding for victims and projects aiming to rebuild conflict-torn societies.
Humanium Metal will generate local income generation, contributing to long-term positive effects on economic realities and prosperity for affected societies.
A Humanium Metal-based product not only delivers vital financial support to affected individuals and countries, it also carries a strong ethical message.
Consumers who purchase Humanium Metal products, will be part of the solution to one of the world’s greatest problems.

So what does this have to do with watches?

Well I'm glad you asked!

Courtesy of TRIWA

TRIWA has adopted Humanium as a material for a new collection that they are currently promoting on Kickstarter -

Courtesy of TRIWA

TRIWA Humanium Kickstarter

The good news?  The goal has already been reached, so if you choose to back it, you will be getting your very own piece of TRIWA Humanium goodness for the promotional price!

The watch will be available in either Hu39 (39 mm) or or Hu34 (34mm) with a choice of two dial variations and multiple strap options.



 

 

Back to the Future -

With Humbert-Droz!

Courtesy of Humbert-Droz

I had pretty much sworn off of writing about Kickstarters, but every once in a while, something truly special comes along.

Courtesy of Hunbert-Droz

 

This is the HD4.  

Courtesy of Humbert-Droz

It is available in four color variations:  Onyx, Steel, Wood, and my personal favorite -

Courtesy of Humbert-Droz

 Emerald!

The case is stainless steel, measuring 40 mm across and 35 mm top to bottom (the case, not including the lugs.

The movement is truly special, Bernhard FÖRSTER, a German movement resurrected from the past and put to use in this digital time machine.  The watch is assembled in one of my all time favorite places, Besançon!

The Kickstarter rewards focus primarily on the watch itself, starting at €519 for the HD4 with a leather strap.

Should you be so inclined, check it out here -

Humbert-Droz HD4 Kickstarter

Doing Good - Nordgreen

Having rolled the dice for charitable giving myself with 3thirty3, I am always happy to see another idea idealist organization take a shot at charitable capitalism. 

Courtesy of Nordgreen

The folks from Nordgreen are offering three different designs at a good price and the best part?  What Nordgreen has defined as their Giving back program -



                  Giving back program

We are going to play our part in making sustainable change across the globe. Every watch will contribute to a meaningful cause, and the choice is handed over to the owner. All you need is the serial number from the case back, and the unique identification code from the Certificate of Authenticity to make your choice and follow the results.

Now just what the amount or percentage of the donation is/will be I do not know, but I applaud Nordgreen for making this part of their model.

Should you be so inclined, you can find their Kickstarter program here -

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1743565867/nordgreen-luxury-scandinavian-design-watches