Logan's Run - The WatchTown Edition

I will be very honest. I visit Monochrome, Fratello, Watch Pro, and yes even Hodinkee pretty much every day. And while it used to be to follow what my friends and colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates of Watch Town were up to, lately more and more it's to read the tea leaves. And it has been interesting to see the shift of content and volume coming from Hodinkee. But more interesting is what appears to be a game of musical chairs.

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

There is no denying that there was a steady departure of long-time (at least by blog/webzine standards) writers over the past year or so.  Cara Barrett, Jack Forster, Jon Bues, Cole Pennington, Jason Heaton, and Logan Baker. But the departures continued with Nick Marino also disappearing from the masthead. Of the new/newer crew Sarah Miller and Nora Taylor no longer appear on the masthead. Style Editor Malaika Crawford is now (at least insofar as the masthead goes) the only female writer.

In fairness, change is inevitable. But from a mighty staff of dozens, only 5 or 6 writers (editors) currently grace the masthead as of this post.

In the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit, I commented more than regularly on what has grown into cartel of media outlets. I still stand by that assessment. More often than not, I will read about a new release in one of the big outlets and receive the "B Team" press release later that day from the brand. But here's hoping that the watch media cartel made up of those big dogs will give way to more of a meritocracy. There is a lot of good writing on watches out there, hopefully brands with marketing and advertising budgets will start to support it, even if the title does not begin with an H, like that other shameless cartel member, Henki Time ; )

Passing The Baton

Henki in Paris

When I started Tempus Fugit back in 2010, I was fresh off of three years working for DOXA (Synchron) and wanted to offer some different perspectives to what was out there in the digital realms of watch writing. In truth, Tempus Fugit was more "fan-boy" centric in the early days.

Over time, Tempus Fugit evolved to be more of a site that would offer some (occasionally) contrary views, and not necessarily serve up "feel good" warm and fuzzies about the industry at large.

And in the process, I was drawn more and more back into the watch industry as a consultant. So much so that I now feel that as I work on behalf of brands, it is no longer really appropriate for me to write about brands or releases. I have long believed that there is a clear demarcation between the press and sales/marketing. Although I do disclose all business relationships when writing about any potential, current or past client, I also feel that the time is right to step back and pass the baton to the next steward/s of Tempus Fugit.

Over the next weeks and months, you will see some changes, I hope changes for the better and ones that you will appreciate. There will be a shift to offer more enthusiast related content such as reviews, event coverage, etc.

I will still be popping in from time to time, offering a column on the watch industry from the inside. So although I am handing over the keys, I will still be here, the grumpy uncle, tilting at the occasional windmill ; )

I look forward to introducing you to the new managing editor in the coming days, so watch this space!

Why now?  It is not lost on me that I need to pay heed to the advice that I so copiously dispense, and I refer back to that other great commentator on the watch business, Barry Hearn -

Barry Hearn's Rule #10 - 

Know Your Sell-By Date

I am rounding the corner, heading towards 54 in July. I have been writing Tempus Fugit pretty much solo for the past (going on) 12 years. And to be honest? I am a dinosaur. What you, the readers should be looking for is not the same old shit coming from old farts like me. You should be looking for new voices with new perspectives and new opinions. It's time for the next generation to take the wheel and chart some new courses. And I think we're all in for a hell of a good trip!

And finally, I wanted to take this moment to thank all of you who have supported Tempus Fugit over the years. Whether as a watch enthusiast, a brand representative, designer, marketer, owner, or sales manager. It has been fun, feisty, informative and always interesting. I wish you all the very best of success moving forward.

Tempus Fugit!

Spring Repeat - When Faust Launched a Watch Blog - The Recidivist Update

In my "other life" in the watch business, I do a wee bit of consulting. And yet again, one particular recidivist tried to dip his hand into the change purse of one of my clients, offering to sell them a nickel for a dime.  So it seems as good a time as ever to throw this one in the microwave and reheat it -

When Faust Launched a Watch Blog

So before we get underway, allow me to acquaint you with the title character from today's missive, per Wikipedia -

Mephistopheles visits Faust in his study. An illustration, by Tony Johannot, of a scene from Goethe’s Faust

Faust is the protagonist of a classic German legend, based on the historical Johann Georg Faust (c. 1480–1540).

The erudite Faust is highly successful yet dissatisfied with his life, which leads him to make a pact with the Devil at a crossroads, exchanging his soul for unlimited knowledge and worldly pleasures. The Faust legend has been the basis for many literary, artistic, cinematic, and musical works that have reinterpreted it through the ages. "Faust" and the adjective "Faustian" imply a situation in which an ambitious person surrenders moral integrity in order to achieve power and success for a limited term.^[1][2]

Okay, now that your "homework" is complete, let's move forward. I realize that comparing the media serving the watch business to a pact with the Devil might sound a bit heavy-handed, given the hyper-competition now afoot for outlets to secure advertising revenue, it's actually not too far off base.

Consider this a primer on - What you are served, and why in terms of press releases, news and actual opinions (sorry, had choke that last one out). When I very first started out in the watch game, a bright eyed Northern Youth behind the counter at the nascent Tourneau in San Francisco back at the turn of the century, the news came in the form of 4 different magazines, along with the occasional "drop in" by a brand rep who got lost on their way to Shreve. Myself and the other resident watch nerd also dipped our toes into TimeZone and WatchUSeek, but that was pretty much it. 

In 2007, the landscape had not changed too much, although now there were burgeoning personalities beginning to emerge from the herd. I had moved on to work for the DOXA SUB licensee, Rick Marei, dealing with PR among other things. What was starting to become clear was that advertising was becoming more and more important, and the majority of actual stories or reporting was clearly becoming driven more and more by advertising.  Meaning the more frequently you advertised, the more likely you were to actually get something in print beyond the brief press release blurbs at the front or rear of the magazine. That was, until, SWATCH and the emerging behemoth Richemont began to blot out the sun on the coverage horizon.

And then Atlas shrugged and the paradigm shifted. In my fourth shift in the industry (I started out behind the counter, then to a brand, then to running a blog, then back as a marketing consultant) I thought it would be pretty easy to get press releases covered for my new watch brand clients.  I mean because, hey - I knew all of the guys and gals covering watches!  We were on friendly terms, and it wasn't like I was asking for free banner ads or anything. I started with the new head at the biggest watch magazine in North America. I got a lot of flowery language that essentially said, get stuffed. Emails went unanswered, awkward moments passed in the halls of BaselWorld, comments like - "Send me an email" were pitched.  None of which, of course, addressed the fact that a year's worth of emails were sitting, unanswered. And then one of those friends started replying with comments like - "Sorry James, that's not something we're going to cover."  You know, nothing personal.  Just an editorial decision.  But then those same "friends" started reaching out directly to my clients and offering to write "sponsored" content.  In other words "It's not something we're going to cover" really meant - "it's nothing we're going to cover unless you pay us to cover it".  Add to that the advertising fees already being charged to some brands and it was clear that every penny that could be squeezed out of a brand would be. And in fairness, this represented a bit of a table turning on the brands who had been dictating for years how they would, and would not be covered. But make no mistake, they new rapacious approach of big watch media is not to "rob the rich to give to the poor".

And this is where we find ourselves now.  More often than not, if you are reading the majority of outlets, it is not accidental that you are seeing what you are seeing. Someone's been encouraged  to pay for that content to be placed there.  Think I'm full of it?  Is it coincidence that when a big brand has a launch that you will see the same launch on the big 4 outlets on the same day?  Stop wondering.

"But wait!" you say,  "what about that time big brand Q had a launch and only outlet X covered it?" Well, that is even more glaring.  Because what it means is that brand Q paid outlet X to cover the launch, and part of that was outlet X required brand Q to pay them for the "honor" of being "featured" in their outlet. Meaning that only X would be permitted to cover it for a day or two. Which, of course, is completely counter to the stated purpose of PR and marketing - to communicate your news to AS MANY PEOPLE AS POSSIBLE. Oh, and then there is the unintended (but predictable) side effect - outlets A, B, C and pretty much everyone else ignores brand Q's press release when it limps in a day later. I mean, if they didn't get paid, why should they cover it?

And things are already beginning to change again.  The big outlets which were (in most cases) started by one or two (most often) guys have swelled in ranks.  Now the mastheads of most of these now "digital magazines" have staffs bigger than most regional newspapers.  And that's a lot of mouths to feed. When I ask some of my former friends (as they now have made it clear we are business acquaintances) why they are trying to charge my brand for content - not advertising mind you, but charging money to write a review?  They tell me that they have to "make a living".  But the irony is, had they kept their expectations and growth reasonable, they wouldn't have to strong-arm brands for coverage now. And of course when a brand capitulates and opts to tie the media equivalent of a pork-chop around their neck to get the dog to play with them? Well it's time for me to move on because they have now crossed a very dubious line.  So it would seem that the watch fairs have devolved into a hunting ground not unlike the Port Authority in New York City back in the 70s and 80s.

But let's get back to our old friend Faust.  While I certainly don't think that my more well-heeled colleagues in the 4th and 5th estate have sold their souls, I do think that they have signed a short-term lease on their sense of ethics. And I want to stress that time frame again, short-term. Everything changes, and will continue to do so. COVID-19 has simply laid bare what was already on the cards - several brands are simply not going to make it. More brands will have to cut back on expenses (shows, advertising, celebrity partnerships and sponsored content). And that means the gravy train is going to be uncoupling some cars as it moves forward. Let's hope everyone has a plan C. 

And let's also hope that they remember what they said to everyone they put the touch on when the music stops - that's it's nothing personal, just business. Or as that other great commentator on the watch business put it -

Courtesy of The Wire

When A Schoolyard Scrap Gets Goofy

It goes without saying that there is, from time to time, tension between those of us who work in the glamorous world of watch media.

Recently what was perhaps the most precious moment was the blood in the water effect that Media Outlet X's post on LinkedIn regarding their behind the scenes strategizing with a watch fair had on other members of the Fourth and Fifth Estate.  This triggered a particularly interesting reaction on another, longer standing watch media outlet (Print, and more and more lately?  Digital).  Owner of Media Outlet Y decided that the best way to "up" his standing and showcase his "bonafides" was to, as we used to say 'round the school yard, talk shit about the Owner of Media Outlet X.  And in fact, not just about the Owner of Media Outlet X, but he went  there - he dropped the "B" word... on LinkedIn!

Now, I certainly don't claim to be the smartest guy out there, but I'm also pretty sure I'm not the dumbest.  The Owner of Media Outlet Y moved to a digital format because?  You guessed it, he couldn't compete in the print world at a level that he (and his outlet) once did. The world has evolved.  And hey, I like nice shiny things, subsidized foreign travel, and to have watch PR people pretending to listen to me like my opinion even matters one little bit (spoiler alert - it does not).  When your way of life gets challenged, the simple thing to do is to lay the blame on another outlet's doorstep.  In fact, the Owner of Media Outlet Y puts out near daily posts in a digital format that he then promotes online through social media   You know, just like a B%*G..., or the Owner of Media Outlet X. 

I was waiting for all the other kids (read media outlet owners) to start circling around chanting "Fight, fight, fight" which would, hopefully, summon the Assistant Principal to rush out and break it up and sentence the two verbal pugilists to their respective after-school detentions.

Scene from the film 3 o'clock High

Now a few things were very clear to me reading both of these big, swinging dick's comments. They both personally feel that they are really important in the decision making process of watch brands, serious collectors, and (what I suspect they would refer to as) hangers on.  And the truth is?  They are not.  Not anymore.  And very few actually are.  I labor under no false beliefs, and do not lay awake nights waiting for the call from Richemont or LVMH inviting me to come run a brand's media program ; )

Let's take a brief stroll down memory lane to those thrilling days of yesteryear.  You know, back when all of those big, shiny ONLINE MAGAZINES were blogs?  That's right, most of them started out as blogs.  And the people who started them?  BLOGGERS.  More importantly?  Just like watch brands, there are too many of them to be viable on a commercial level.  And as for print?  It's not dead, not by a long shot.  But with the evolution of a subject matter, there will be an evolution of the content providers of said subject matter. Those of us who were 20 - 30 somethings in the 90s will likely remember Wallpaper Magazine (the stuff that surrounds you).  Lately?  Not so much.  But almost all of us are now quite familiar with Monocle magazine.  Another mind-blower?  Unless I misread the Wikipedia page, both were founded by Tyler Brûlé.  The point being?  He saw the evolution of interest and readership, and he adapted.  He evolved.  And I think it proves a point. Whether it has to do with quality or quantity of content, sooner or later? The end consumer (i.e. the reader) will make their choice, and if you want to be in the content providing business, just like Mr. Brûlé, you will need to adapt and evolve.

But for the outlet owners out there, let's just be really honest with ourselves - and the readers. For the most part we started because we were passionate about the thing that we wanted to cover.  And I would like to think that by and large the readers will be attracted to what they find interesting or relatable.  Do I think that people looking for the latest review or celebrity partnership or red carpet watch sighting is heading to Tempus Fugit?  Again, not so much.

Do outlets pander to brands?  Of course - and in fairness we all (outlet owners) do it on different levels.  Are some brands more likely to bestow favor on a given outlet owing to the belief that more people will visit said outlet and more eyes will land on their watch?  

Courtesy of The Simpsons

Now, are all of those millions of visitors some outlets claim to have, how do I say this... not actually for realsies?

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

So it is not a 100% level playing field.  It might be time for everyone to get over it.  As mentioned earlier, here at Tempus Fugit we have finally discovered our niche - industry related (and hopefully relatable) topics.  It is nearly impossible to be everything to everyone, and more importantly?  It's exhausting, and never really achievable.

We are glad you decided to spend some time here at Tempus Fugit, and we're going to stick to our path.

The Trolley Problem

As it applies to watch journalism.

Courtesy of Wikipedia

It would seem that the words watch and journalist are becoming more and more incompatible in the same sentence.  Brands work feverishly to sanitize who will receive their release and then monitor closely to watch the "Barium Meal" that is the press release that they sent out to see which "news" outlets will clap and bark like seals, and which ones will experience gastro-intestinal distress.  For the watch journos out there who are members of the "clean plate" club and can swallow it all down and reveal the picture of Mickey Mouse etched across the top of their dish?  They get a gold star, guaranteed access, paid travel and gifts of various description and best of all?  Advertising revenue!  For those that spend the time after disseminating a particularly foul smelling press missive with a visit from "Cardinal Chunder"?  

Courtesy of the BBC

Well, let's just say they will not find themselves on this year's Christmas list.

But let's get back to the topic at hand - the Trolley Problem.  The trolley problem is (at this point) an age old conundrum conceived to help inform and instruct on moral and/or ethical behavior.  If Wikipedia is anything to go by, it might have first been utilized by Frank Chapman Sharp at the University of Wisconsin to help instruct on moral or ethical thought.  Essentially, imagine that there is a runaway trolley (or streetcar, or tram if you are more familiar, or even a train).  Further down the line there are five people, very much alive, but immobilized and unable to move, and are directly in the path of the trolley, streetcar, tram, or what the hell, even a train... well you get the idea.  BUT WAIT!  Hallelujah!  There is a switch lever, and you are standing right by it!  Hooray!  You can save the day!  

But wait -

If you choose to divert the trolley, tram, street car, train (you get the idea) to this other line, it will then head down the track and run right over your infant son who you left in his stroller on what you believed to be a disused stretch of track while you went to grab a six pack at the off-license.  Yes, this is why your partner does not trust you alone with the kids ; )

So now you have a real dilemma - do you act, and by acting sacrifice your son for the greater good of the 5 strangers?  Or do you do nothing?  I mean, it's not like you put those five people there on the tracks in the first place, you just wanted to get some beers.

In the "normal" world, and I use the word normal cautiously because we are living in very abnormal times, but in the normal world, if you report on fact, or offer opinion (not slander, defamation, or falsehoods) but fair and balanced opinion, you should not be afraid to do so.  But we are not living in normal times.  And curious to relate?  The watch and luxury business has been trying to run a somewhat authoritarian press bureau for some time.  Step out of line, you are left in the cold.  And in all fairness, there are a fair number of people out there trying to make a living, and not necessarily willing to throw that switch lever and watch their child (or in this case, their media outlet) get mowed down.

Recently there was a real opportunity for several owners of large press outlets to do the right thing and actually speak up.  These are outlets with deep staffs, and a fairly secure revenue stream (at least by comparison to others), with truly large readerships.  They all chose to remain silent publicly.  And this is a shame.  Because in trying to stay on the "good list", they collectively took a shit on a very deserving, very sincere brand that has struggled nobly forward for many years, and frankly?  Deserved a hell of a lot better than what they got.  And what I find so frustrating in all of this is that I KNOW these media outlet owners.  They were once in the very same spot as the brand owner.  They were not always so "mighty", and I have shared more than one dreadful lunch at BaselWorld with several of them over plates of over-aged open faced liverwurst sandwiches and tap water trying to conceive of an alliance of our then much smaller blogs and outlets to come together so that we all might make some money.  
Editors note - the alliance never really fully materialized.  2 of the outlets became big time, one of the bloggers now runs a magazine, I chose to remain a solo act.
And on one level I get it - we all have to eat, we all have bills to pay, and fortunately for me, I am not dependent upon Tempus Fugit, and therefore not dependent on brands writing me checks.

But on the other hand, whether we all admit it or not, nobody needs watches.  More particularly?  Nobody really needs watch magazines or blogs.  We like them, we enjoy them.  But the outlets should also all be willing to offer honest opinions without fear of losing advertising revenue.
  
Because ultimately?  The watch press should be much more than simply an extension of a brand's pr and marketing office.  Because when the line is as blurred as it currently is?  It is no longer actual reporting.  It is just candy floss.

I Could Do It Better Myself - The Volunteer Media

Despite what some folks think, the majority of the press covering the watch business these days is of a voluntary nature.  This is largely the result of brands cutting advertising budgets, and people going back to former occupations, getting married, or finding better ways to spend their free (and not so free) time.

So gentle reader, an inside look at a day in the life of Henki -

5:30 - Whether I like it or not, Tallulah (the older cat and Executive Publisher) is awake and waiting to be fed.  Sabrina (the younger cat and Editor in Chief) is waiting as well.  I head downstairs, turn up the heat in the house, and feed the cats.  I gulp down my morning tablets with a glass of water, have the first of several espressos and head back upstairs to the office.

5:45 - emails reviewed, and...
Not a sausage.  
Not only has watch advertising money dried up, watch brands are producing fewer and fewer models, and some have made their PR functions redundant.  News is scant, and unlike some of my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate, I prefer not to manufacture it.

6:15 - Go down and make a coffee for Wendy who is up and getting ready for work.

6:25 - I receive a follow-up email from the PR manager at Brand Y.  Y for "why won't you write about us?", which I have explained a few times - I don't write advertorials.  I realize my unwillingness to do so is probably holding me back financially, but a man must have a code ; )

6:45 - Email in-box pings, and... 

Good news! I am the winner of the Nigerian National Lottery! Maybe I'll buy Watch Time from Ebner so I can finally have my own magazine!
7:15 - Finally I decide that as no news is forthcoming, I will write an editorial type piece. The Grey Market is always good for a few hundred words, and is showing no sign of slowing down.  

8:00 - Kiss Wendy and wish her a good day as she heads out the door.

8:35 - Hastily showered and dressed, lunch made, it's off to work.

8:55 - Parking lot duty.  Where I work we have very limited parking, and as such the students have been informed that they cannot park in the back lot.  Needless to say, it is a game of cat and mouse as several try to slip in anyway to avoid parking on the street.  This, in turn, prevents other staff members and board members (who have a meeting today) from parking.  While being the Director of Adult Education and Workforce Development has its perks, playing parking lot "sizzler" is not one of them ; )

9:05 - Call with my contact at the Dept. of Education office.  Nothing major, clarifications regarding programming made, and all seems under control.

9:35 - Call from reception, someone is interested in learning English, could I come down and speak with them?

10:30 - Class break time.  I try to speak with each of the four teachers, make sure everything is under control.

10:45 - Back to work on the grant application.  It is due on Friday, signatures are needed from the boss, and I still need to nail down the budget.

12:15 - Text message from brand manager in Switzerland.  Could I recommend a sales manager in Florida.  I file that under "not pressing" and dive back into "grant writing land".

12:30 - Lunch with the teaching team.  Brief ad hoc meeting to review a few items coming up.

13:45 - Call from former student of mine who is interviewing for a job.

2:30 - 30 minute walk around the surrounding area to clear the head.

3:25 - Personal email pops on my iPhone, and I see that the watch from Brand X that three of the big outlets already wrote about 2 days ago is suddenly now a press release for "the rest of us".  I delete the message.

4:15 - draft of the grant application is finally ready to be reviewed by the boss.

4:45 - The phone rings just as I am leaving the office.  Meeting arranged for Wednesday morning to review our proposed adult education program with a new partner one town over.

5:15 - Stop at Trader Joe's for dinner items.

5:35 - Feed the cats dinner, scoop out the litter box, make a coffee and fire-up the laptop.

5:55 - Complete text edit for one of my brands, and respond to a customer query for another.  Yes, the watch in question is available, yes, it does cost that much, no there will be no discount!

6:17 - Phone rings, it's Japan with an urgent request for a special event, could I help organize it?

7:25 - Dinner is nearly ready, and Wendy arrives home after a long day.

9:26  - Story lined up for tomorrow involving a review of a new brand's watch.

10:25 - After 15 minutes of futility, I give up trying to read any more of the book I've been working on since Christmas.  Turn out the lights and off to sleep.  Tomorrow is another exciting day in watch media!

An Open Letter to PR Firms

Relationships and contact lists...

are not the same thing.

As I currently stand on both sides of the watch communication game, I am often surprised if not downright bewildered by the approaches some PR firms make.   It is safe to say that you will not know every journalist/blogger/influencer out there.  I live under absolutely no illusions that Tempus Fugit is on the tips of PR firms' tongues, particularly ones that typically specialize in 
fashion ; )

Having said that...

When you are "courting" your would-be clients, may I suggest that you do not claim to have thousands of contacts, that in fact, you don't.  May I further suggest that you do not buy and sell contact lists? Not only is it unethical, it's also a waste of both you and your client's time and money.  When you buy a list you have bought just that, a list.  People come and go out of the industry. Odd as it may seem, pr and communication are, in fact, people businesses.  Owing to that, there is that pesky need for a relationship at at least some basic level.  

It is very, very easy to understand the attraction for a brand to hire an agency.  And some are certainly very good.  BUT - when you (the agency) are charging $3,500 and up per client, you can afford to take the time to do your OWN homework, develop your own list, and try to do more than simply send emails to strangers.

Or, you can keep doing it the same way you always have.

The Click Farm - No I Was Not Kidding

You've heard it enough from me, so I will defer to the guys at VICE to underscore the reality of click farms (or even click plantations) and why the folks who sign the checks for influencers, bloggers and online advertising should maybe consider that a shit-ton of traffic does not necessarily equate to actual readership -

Massive Click Fraud Farm


We'll see if anyone is listening, or reading...

For the Men Reading Tempus Fugit Ready to Up their Game

Apparently Tempus Fugit is read by more than three of my immediate family members.  So this one is for the fellas out there.   Thanks to the suggestion of a good friend, I was directed to George Hahn's blog.  Which is known as, well, George Hahn!  

This is INVALUABLE reading for any of your men folk out there ready, and willing to take a hard look at yourselves and:

1.  Admit you can do better

2.  Recognize this fact

3.  Be willing to take on advice from someone perhaps a little wiser than yourself!


I have been wrapped up in this blog all day - check it out!

George Hahn

Ethics

This is one from awhile ago, but the topic has been coming up a lot lately, particularly in light of the post on click farms.  So I thought it might be time to re-heat it, here you go -



I guess this is a bit of an open appeal to the watch brands out there to NOT continue to do business with the online magazines, blogs, and "influencers" that require financial reimbursement for coverage. One of these outlets has at least indicated that a certain news piece or review was "sponsored" but think about that for a minute - a brand is PAYING money to have their watch reviewed by someone who refuses to do the review UNLESS THEY KNOW THEY WILL GET PAID BEFORE THEY EVEN WRITE IT?!?  How in God's name is that even remotely going to be an honest review?  And does this mean that although a brand might have news, if the services weren't paid for, it won't be covered?  It's an interesting question -

"If a brand has a new release but they didn't pay blogger/instagrammer/influencer X, did it really happen?"

Little inside tip for you folks running the brands and making PR/Marketing decisions, most of us who cover you know which blogs, "instagrammers", online magazines, "influencers", etc. CHARGE fees to cover you.  In fact, we even know the amounts because they have been so "professional" as to create pricing sheets.  And most of us find it funny that you continue to not only fund these knuckle-heads, but to listen to you crow about this purchased coverage as if you'd just won some sort of award of excellence.  

In fairness, for better or worse, the watch business is a business.  I got involved out of irrational, uncontrollable, often unrequited love.  And to this day that is what keeps my going.  NOT the all-expense-paid trip to the Hamptons, NOT to learn to surf in Hawaii, NOT to stick it to some young entrepreneur trying to launch his/her watch by charging him/her thousands of dollars that he/she can't easily part with in exchange for just a mention on my blog. 

It is NOT supposed to be this way.  It is deceptive, and it is dishonest.  And you have the power to stop it.

So watch brands both big and small, I've been told that perhaps I have an irrational desire to see things a certain way.  To want people to at least attempt to operate in an honest, and straightforward manner.  And in complete truth - had I been the first puppy at the feeding dish getting fat while the runts died from malnutrition, I might live in that same ethical place that the people you bankroll do, swanning about to your events, demanding payment for "service", playing the game.  But if I'm honest, I think that deep down you are all better than this.  And your brands are better than this.  So may I suggest that just as we say when you visit a national park in the US that you "Please don't feed the bears".  And we change it to:

"Please don't feed the Hipsters"

As I said in a previous post - paying for advertising, the occasional press junket, and goodwill swag? Fair enough.  Brokering coverage in an online magazine, blog, etc.?  That is not real coverage. And like any abusive relationship, the longer you keep giving in to the bully, the longer they will be able to manipulate and bully you.

I would like to leave you with a quote from one of my favorite all-time movies - Millers Crossing.  In this scene, Johnny Casper is complaining about paying to "fix" a boxing match, and having his fixed fight become a losing proposition because another person will "sell" the information to another group regarding the fixed outcome of the fight.  I use this example because I personally feel that it is endemic to the watch business.  And frankly, it shouldn't be.

"It's gettin' so a businessman can't expect no return from a fixed fight. Now if you can't trust a fix, what can you trust? For a good return you gotta go bettin' on chance, and then you're back with anarchy. Right back inna jungle. On account of the breakdown of ethics. That's why ethics is important. It's the grease makes us get along, what separates us from the animals, beasts a burden, beasts a prey. Ethics. Whereas (insert person you paid for coverage) is a horse of a different color ethics- wise. As in, he ain't got any." 

Influencers, Click Farms and Millennialitis

Now maybe about five years ago (sounds like a nice round number so I'm going with it), I was invited to participate in a group of what was then referred to as "watch experts".  The concept was (on the surface) pretty straight forward - a major watch magazine / publishing company wanted to band together a group of bloggers from different countries and share press opportunities with them, with the bloggers then benefiting from potential shared advertising revenues.  And in fairness, it seemed like a pretty good deal.  How this finally worked out I am not sure because I opted to remain a solo artist.  But that was perhaps one of the first moments that maybe digital was being taken seriously in the watch world.

Now about this same time, the idea of the "influencer" began to bleed into the watch industry. 

For A Few Dollars More

So, some interesting watch news came out these past few weeks which you did not, and will not read about here. 

Brand PR staff as well as press agencies sent press releases under strict embargo.  They dressed these announcements with sugary phrases like "we really appreciate all of your support" and "we think you're really swell!"

Now what I and many of my colleagues in the fourth and fifth estate have come to discover is that, in fact, the reason for the embargo or intentional delay in sending the press release is because Brand X has, in some instances made an advertising deal with another outlet and part of that advertising deal is not only that Brand X pays a fee to run / promote the brand's item, but they lock down a media black out for everyone else, therefore conveying sense that they are somehow "more in the know", better connected, etc.  And of course when you get the release and post it 1, 2 or even 3 days in advance of everyone else, it would be reasonable to assume that you are somehow better informed.

An exclusive, gentle reader, is the idea that a writer has cultivated a special relationship with a brand, and owing to this, the brand trusts that one writer or outlet to handle their exclusive story or announcement.  Now in the "good old days", that meant communication, effort, hard work and sharing on both parts.  And if you were a big dog that might also mean that some money might have changed hands - but the idea of an exclusive meant that only one outlet would have the item.  And I think that is fair enough.  But an exclusive did not mean that the brand or agency would pay for the exclusive advance release, and then send the EXACT SAME RELEASE with the intention of paying one big outlet, and expecting everyone else to "carry the water".  It's a bit disingenuous and is guaranteed to engender a less-than warm and fuzzy feeling.

To be VERY CLEAR - this is not a judgment about any outlet and how they go about doing their business.  This is very much up to them, and if they can build a better mousetrap?  Well more power to them.  But to the brand representatives and pr agencies, don't expect the rest of us to wag our tails like little puppies under the dinner table waiting for the scraps to fall onto the floor.  We work just as hard, and many of us do it for free.  Don't be shocked or surprised when we don't want to roll on our backs and show you our tummies.

Either do an exclusive or don't, but don't half-ass it.

Ethics

I guess this is a bit of an open appeal to the watch brands out there to NOT continue to do business with the online magazines, blogs, and "influencers" that require financial reimbursement for coverage.  One of these outlets has at least indicated that a certain news piece or review was "sponsored" but think about that for a minute - a brand is PAYING money to have their watch reviewed by someone who refuses to do the review UNLESS THEY KNOW THEY WILL GET PAID BEFORE THEY EVEN WRITE IT?!?  How in God's name is that even remotely going to be an honest review?  And does this mean that although a brand might have news, if the services weren't paid for, it won't be covered?  It's an interesting question - 

"If a brand has a new release but they didn't pay blogger/instagrammer/influencer X, did it really happen?"

Little inside tip for you folks running the brands and making PR/Marketing decisions, most of us who cover you know which blogs, "instagrammers", online magazines, "influencers", etc. CHARGE fees to cover you.  In fact, we even know the amounts because they have been so "professional" as to create pricing sheets.  And most of us find it funny that you continue to not only fund these knuckle-heads, but to listen to you crow about this purchased coverage as if you'd just won some sort of award of excellence.  

In fairness, for better or worse, the watch business is a business.  I got involved out of irrational, uncontrollable, often unrequited love.  And to this day that is what keeps my going.  NOT the all-expense-paid trip to the Hamptons, NOT to learn to surf in Hawaii, NOT to stick it to some young entrepreneur trying to launch his/her watch by charging him/her thousands of dollars that he/she can't easily part with in exchange for just a mention on my blog. 

It is NOT supposed to be this way.  It is deceptive, and it is dishonest.  And you have the power to stop it.

So watch brands both big and small, I've been told that perhaps I have an irrational desire to see things a certain way.  To want people to at least attempt to operate in an honest, and straightforward manner.  And in complete truth - had I been the first puppy at the feeding dish getting fat while the runts died from malnutrition, I might live in that same ethical place that the people you bankroll do, swanning about to your events, demanding payment for "service", playing the game.  But if I'm honest, I think that deep down you are all better than this.  And your brands are better than this.  So may I suggest that just as we say when you visit a national park in the US that you "Please don't feed the bears".  And we change it to:

"Please don't feed the Hipsters"

As I said in a previous post - paying for advertising, the occasional press junket, and goodwill swag? Fair enough.  Brokering coverage in an online magazine, blog, etc.?  That is not real coverage. And like any abusive relationship, the longer you keep giving in to the bully, the longer they will be able to manipulate and bully you.

I would like to leave you with a quote from one of my favorite all-time movies - Millers Crossing.  In this scene, Johnny Casper is complaining about paying to "fix" a boxing match, and having his fixed fight become a losing proposition because another person will "sell" the information to another group regarding the fixed outcome of the fight.  I use this example because I personally feel that it is endemic to the watch business.  And frankly, it shouldn't be.

"It's gettin' so a businessman can't expect no return from a fixed fight. Now if you can't trust a fix, what can you trust? For a good return you gotta go bettin' on chance, and then you're back with anarchy. Right back inna jungle. On account of the breakdown of ethics. That's why ethics is important. It's the grease makes us get along, what separates us from the animals, beasts a burden, beasts a prey. Ethics. Whereas (insert person you paid for coverage) is a horse of a different color ethics- wise. As in, he ain't got any." 

Public Service Announcement: Some Basic Rules for BaselWorld - Don't Lose Your Shit

I put this out there last year following BaselWorld, but as we head for BaselWorld 2015 I thought it might be instructive for first-timers getting ready to catch their flights -

This is for brands, bloggers, "magazine mavens" and buyers.

1.  Be polite!  If you are covering watches, don't' start grabbing stuff and "instagramming" it before you even manage a "hello" or "how are you?".  Ask:  "May I?" before you reach your hairy paw over to grab watches.  

UPDATE - Several people were desperate to know who this referred to.  Having spent a wee bit of time in this person's presence this past Thursday night I can tell you that, sadly, this person is still about as polite, well-behaved and self-aware as before.  But then again, it will make for interesting cocktail hour conversation.


If you are told that the watch in question is in embargo (i.e. not to be photographed or talked about), don't be an ass-hat!  Pretend that you didn't see it, turn away and ask about other items.  If you are not supposed to report on embargoed items, there is no reason to insist on photographing them.


2.  Be considerate of other people's time.  If you are late, recognize this and apologize - and that goes for BOTH sides of the booth.

IMPORTANT - Take this SERIOUSLY - time is the one commodity that everyone will be running short of.  And this even goes for seemingly "social" meetings.  I've seen many good relationships take nasty, unfortunate turns over something that seems so innocuous.  If you're late, say you're sorry - mean it, then turn the page.


3.  Don't double-book!  I don't care how tight your time is, if you double-book, someone will notice.  I do not care HOW important your PR agency thinks the blogger two doors down might be.  If I've made an appointment with you - I am the most important person on your dance card at that moment.  I do not expect my "host" to excuse themselves to go and "kiss the ring" of someone who never even writes about them during MY TIME.  I've spent time, money and vacation hours to be at your booth at BaselWorld.  Don't mess me about for someone else.  I am the one who you came to the dance with.

UPDATE - I was contacted by about 7 different brand managers convinced it was them ; )


4.  Be understanding - it will happen that a brand will schedule something, and for whatever reason it gets forgotten.  Nine times out of ten, it is not personal.  It's okay to say that you are disappointed.  It is not okay to lose your shit.  Turn the page. 

IMPORTANT - If you are the type to take offense (and we are all human and can be prone to ego) be aware of this shortcoming in your personal "makeup" and relax, smile and understand.  I will go on record here - I have NOT always been patient and/or understanding and have ALWAYS instantly regretted it.  You will miss/forget things yourself.  Put your "big boy" (or "big girl") pants on and smile and understand.  

And for the brands -
Sometimes  it is entirely possible that your appointment is having medical distress.  It isn't personal - and it isn't someone "flaking out" - thank you Liliana for that charming turn of phrase. 
Again - accept apologies, don't lose your shit.  And for those of you PR mavens who cannot and will not accept situations beyond normal control - GET OVER YOURSELVES! 

YES - this was directed at the PR "Gatekeeper" for a "prestige" brand.   Apologies and doctor's notes were dismissed abruptly and I still carry the label of "Flake" with this person.  Since then I have tried to ensure that all medical emergencies take place either before, or after BaselWorld ; )


5.  Don't "ass things up" for everyone else.  Bloggers are finally getting a reasonable reputation.  Don't be the blogger that everyone is so afraid of that they spend precious time catering to your profound neurosis, and then end up not helping out your fellow bloggers as they are busy falling all over themselves trying to keep your dumb ass happy.   Invest in some therapy if your self-esteem is suffering, but don't take it out on the poor souls trying to feed your massive ego.  And news flash - you are not respected, you are feared - and not feared owing to your professional opinion, you are feared because of your past track record for, well, losing your shit.


6.  Bloggers, writers, editors - take the time to actually get to know your brand contacts.  Are they married? Do they have kids?  How old are the kids?  What are their hobbies? 
You enjoy being asked about yourself, why do you think that they are different?  Take an interest!  Does your brand contact have a cat that frequently visits his atelier?  If so, does the cat like sardines?  This information could prove invaluable when shopping for appropriate gifts when visiting said atelier later on.  I for one would bring sardines if that was what the atelier cat enjoyed. 

UPDATE - amazingly enough, the more time you take to actually engage with a brand representative, the more likely they are to go out of their way to help you.  You might, just might even have a new friendship out of it.  Amazing, huh?  


I guess overall, the main message is "Don't Lose Your Shit".  More importantly, don't be a shit.

So... clear your mind of frustration, disappointment, and self-importance.  You are one of thousands of people "running with the bulls" through the halls of BaselWorld.  It will be intense, it will be a mad-cap rush to the finish line, but we will all be just fine if we can hold onto our shit ; )

Having worked BaselWorld from both sides of the counter, I am constantly amazed that 90% of things happen perfectly. 

And 10% is, well, life.  Life happens.  It isn't personal ; )

So with less than 12 months to get ready,  Here's to BaselWorld 2015!

Or as of this update - 2 weeks!

And -

DON'T LOSE  YOUR SHIT!