Getting it Wrong

Writing about watches can be a slightly precarious business.  On the one hand you hope to have access to all of the news, meet the key players - and ideally have positive relationships with those folks.  And when you start out, you do whatever you think is necessary to make that happen.

Not all of us get flown out to cover events, wined and dined and then PAID for the "exertion" of it all.
For many of us, we do it because we love it.  And love is a dangerous emotion, because it can oftentimes blind you to things that maybe should have been obvious.  You try to be polite, you try to be understanding - sometimes while enduring a great deal of condescension.  But as a rule, you suck it up and move on.  This is particularly true when it becomes evident that the "emperor is naked".
We get so caught up in the "story" and the mystique, we sometimes have a tough time seeing what is right there in front of us.

Hanhart - there, I said it.  Hanhart in many ways has been missing in action for quite some time, and this is not a recent development.  It is an example where failure had many "fathers".

Think about this - brand announced and re-launched with great fanfare, exciting watches like the Desert Pilot are announced, and then never seen.  Supply and delivery issues.  Distributors announced, and then terminated within months with little or no explanation.  Management change, a second management change and now if the rumors are to be believed, there are now no retail locations for Hanhart here in the US, with retail stores having returned all of their stock.

I drank the cool-aid, I believed, I saw beautiful flowing robes as the emperor walked past.
I got it wrong.  I will try to be more vigilant from now on.

Grieb & Benzinger's Shades of Grey

Courtesy of Grieb & Benzinger

Some new options from Grieb & Benzinger.

Seamaster ETNZ

Courtesy of Omega

I guess a second working title for this post could be - I do not understand how some folks can get expenses paid to go cover great events like this - and then wait to do so?

DOXA and Fabien Cosuteau

DOXA will be partnering with Fabien Cosuteau on his 31 day mission -

Courtesy of DOXA

RGM's Caliber 20

This just in from RGM -


Courtesy of RGM

60% = SWISS MADE?

Okay, I want to start out by saying that I appreciate that it is a global economy.  Things have changed.

We want watches, we want new watches, and we want them to be priced at a point that we can live with.  Oh, and by the way, they must be SWISS made, because apparently everything else is junk.

Now let's talk about SWISS made and what that really means - 60%???

60% of the value must be Swiss - 60%?   That is a little bit like saying that 60% of milk must come from a cow for it to be "milk".  It is splitting hairs on a a profoundly goofy level.  

Do you REALLY think that you could buy a 100% "down-home" made in Switzerland watch for $700 US?  In a country with a very high standard of living, where a "reasonable" lunch is going to cost you 15 - 25 francs, do you REALLY think that a Swiss company can afford to make and sell that watch for $175 completely within the borders of Switzerland?   

"Wait a minute" you say, "you said $700, didn't you?"  Well yes I did, but that is the suggested retail price. Consider that a retail store sells the watch for $700 (hopefully).  The retail store bought the watch for $350 - i.e. their margin is 50% of the total value.

And then reduce that number again - because don't forget the distributor, or in some instances the brand's regional manager, the marketing costs, service, etc. - $175 is a safe number.  

Now this is not exactly "ground-breaking" information.  Most people can figure out these figures.  Moreover, this is not unique to the watch industry.  But back to "provenance" - consider the car industry, most particularly consider the HIGH end auto sector.  Think your BMW was made in Bavaria?  In terms of design, vision (and maybe even performance) sure.  In terms of where the components were made, and where said components were assembled - it's no more Bavarian that I am.  And for the record, I am NOT Bavarian, or even German ; )  And yet, we don't tend to question the quality and VALUE of a BMW or Porsche.  Why should the watch industry be different?

Back in the mid to late 90s, a certain German auto company assembled a portion of their sports car in a factory in western Finland.  And it's worth mentioning that the SAME factory assembled Ladas ; )

In fairness, I've worked in the industry.  I've seen the good, the bad and the ugly.  If you want  a 100% made in Switzerland watch, you don't necessarily have to consider a second mortgage, but you will not be able to buy one or more watches a year like you maybe do now.

So for me, the 60% is truly neither here nor there.  Quality is quality.  But as always, I encourage you to draw what conclusions you will.

Ulysee Nardin Opens Boutique in Geneva

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

The Boutique Exclusive line includes the Blue Toro, the Freak Diavolo Platinum, and the Blue Executive Dual Time watches symbolizing the pioneering and independent spirit of the brand.


Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

 

A Few Minutes with Martin Pauli

Those of you in the US are familiar with the "most interesting man in the world" Dos Equis commercials.

  

Well, I can safely say without fear of contradiction - Martin Pauli has proven to be THE most interesting interview I've had in the past three years of the Tempus Fugit blog. 

Courtesy of Martin Pauli

Designer, artist, writer, traveller and dare I say it, "appreciater of life"!

And now, a few minutes with man behind Angular Momentum, Martin Pauli - quite possibly the Watch World's Most Interesting Man!

Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 38

This just in from Corum -

Courtesy of Corum

The Tsugaru nuri Yellow

“Raketa for Sochi”

Courtesy of Raketa

This is the latest from Raketa.

Wendy's Omega "Re-imagined"

Wendy has been home in Canada this past week, and her very talented and artistic friend took a photo of her Omega bumper and came up with this. It is an "illustration" feature.  I never fail to be amazed by how much I DON'T know about ; )

Pretty cool!

A Misplaced Treasure from Cartier

Every now and again there is an iconic watch that just somehow slips through the cracks

Congratulations to Nik Wallenda

Well I am sure that everyone else who just sat through Nik Wallenda's latest feat of daring-do is toweling off the sweat and breathing a collective sigh of relief!

JEANRICHARD ambassador Nik Wallenda has successfully completed his high-wire walk across the Grand Canyon.

Well done!  And now we can all breath again!

Buy a Part of a Watch Brand - Part Deux

A. Manzoni & Fils have announced the launch of their crowd-funding campaign through Kickstarter.

Courtesy of A. Manzoni & Fils

Summer Solstice!

Courtesy of GoS Watches

This weekend marks the Solstice festival here in Santa Barbara.

Alpina Pilot Heritage Under the Hood

In a time where just about everyone throws a watch at you with a display back (in many instances because the watch case is less expensive to manufacture that way), Alpina actually does something nicer, better, and dare I say it, more authentic!

The Watch Industry and the Transfer Window - Eterna... Again

News arrived in my in box from Corum's North American PR office earlier this afternoon -

Courtesy of Corum



A New World Timer - It's Official!



Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

This is the latest from Baume & Mercier - the Capeland World Timer!

A New Boutique for Corum

This just in from Corum -


Courtesy of Corum

Commitment - Sarpaneva

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

There are very few overnight sensations...

Richard Mille and PPR - What If?

So the news is out there already, mostly attributed to Reuters and "Industry Insiders".  It would seem that Richard Mille is ready to part company with his watch brand.

Reuters broke the news that PPR is in talks with Richard Mille to purchase 51% (and therefore controlling) interest.

The theory being that Mille would stay on in some sort of executive role for a fixed period of time.

By all accounts, it would seem that SWATCH, LVMH and Richemont are sitting this one out.

So it would seem that this could be the next horological jewel in the crown for PPR.  But what I personally find more interesting is that there is, to some extent, a third wheel in this equation.  Audemars Piguet by many accounts not only provides movements for Richard Mille, but also own a small percentage.  So it is of course RIFE for speculation as to first and foremost, would AP move along with the deal maintaining their (some report) 10%?  Would they sell up, or is there a further twist in the tail?

We will see - but for the whole story, here is a link to what Reuters released earlier -

http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/06/17/us-ppr-richardmille-idUSBRE95G0N520130617

Summer Reruns - a Few Minutes with Peter Stas

As I am in the middle of the Alpina review, it seemed like a good time to re-heat this one from last August.


From very uncertain beginnings, Peter Stas and his wife Aletta have nurtured Frederique Constant from its birth, growing it into one of the watch world's serious players in a very short time.  And now, a few minutes with Peter Stas -

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

New Livery for the WW1 Argentium

A splash of color from Bell & Ross

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Ti-Bridge Lady from Corum

This just in from Corum -

Courtesy of Corum



On the Face of it - Alpina Pilot Heritage

The dial on the Pilot Heritage is today's topic. Very clear, very "true" to the era it is honoring. From the sub-second to the outer chapter ring on the dial, Alpina has paid close attention and stuck to their brief for producing a beautiful pilot's watch inspired by an early example that they had rediscovered.

Airman Sphair

This is the Airman 18 Sphair from Glycine.

Courtesy of Glycine

Making a Cintrée Curvex Case

Break out the popcorn!

15 Days with the Alpina Pilot Heritage

Courtesy of Alpina

Starts now.

Milus and the Beautiful Game

This just in from Milus -

Courtesy of Milus (version 2/3)

A new chronograph to honor Roberto Carlos.

An Award for the Chinese Timekeeper

The Chinese Timekeeper was the winner of the 2013 SME Award

Courtesy of the Chinese Timekeeper

Grand Dôme R92 - A Limited Edition of 16!

The watch world throws around the expression "Limited Edition" a little too liberally.

Courtesy of Dubey & Schaldenbrand

Something Unexpected

At BaselWorld you will meet many people by plan or appointment, but some will be strictly by chance.

Courtesy of Ichthus

Happy 2014 - A Bit Early

I love weekends!  Particularly because quite often Martin Pauli, the man behind Angular Momentum sends the announcements for his latest creations on Saturdays and Sundays.

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

Memories of Summers' Past

Courtesy of Jaermann & Stübi

Growing up as I did, summers for a long time meant work, and work meant the country club.

Girard-Perregaux Honors Pedro Almodovar

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

Just in from Girard-Perregaux -

Synchron's New Old Stock Chronograph

Courtesy of Aquadive and Synchron

I stumbled across this gem just now on the Aquadive website.

Bell & Ross Clock Restoration

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This just in from Bell & Ross  -

Bell & Ross sponsors monumental clock renovation of the Bourget Museum of Air and Space

The Maxi Marine Diver from Ulysse Nardin

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

This just in from Ulysse Nardin

Summer Reading from Frederique Constant

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

I write about watches, talk about watches - and REALLY like to read about watches!

NOMOS Offers a Helping Hand to Doctors Without Borders

NOMOS has stepped-up to help promote the cause of Doctors Without Borders with a few new versions of the Tangente.

Courtesy of NOMOS Glashutte

And if you have any doubts about the sincerity of the folks from Glashutte when it comes to charitable causes, I can attest from personal experience that NOMOS Glashutte is the REAL DEAL.

Behold - the SISTEM51!

Okay, now as much as I rail and rant about some of the Big Dogs of the watch world, you have to give credit where it's due.

Courtesy of SWATCH

The Tourbillon Bi-Axial from Girard-Perregaux

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

 

A Tourbillon Bi-Axial with high-tech materials: an iconic design inspired by a Tourbillon pocket watch from the 1860s, a style that has nevertheless maintained its modern appeal. The new tantalum Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Bi-Axial with three sapphire bridges imposes a vision of time where precision, both technical and esthetic, is the watchword. A new limited edition of 12 pieces has been released.

A New Variation on the Calibre Royal

News from Pequignet -

Courtesy of Pequignet

“Les Sons du Temps”… The sounds of time in musical mode

This just in from Vacheron Constantin -

From the left to the right : Heinz Forrer, President of Vacheron Constantin Switzerland, Charlotte Mailler, "Art en Vieille Ville" and Julien Marchenoir, Marketing and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin 

Twice a year, the Maison Vacheron Constantin unveils its historical collections for devotees of technical and precious Fine Watchmaking, as well as for the public at large. Each of these encounters signals the Manufacture’s determination to present a particular facet of its uninterrupted history since 1755, as well as to share its passion for creativity and precise, skilled gestures.

Nik Wallenda is JEANRICHARD's Latest Partner

JEANRICHARD announces a new partnership with Nik Wallenda.

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

Having conquered Niagara Falls, Mr. Wallenda has set his sites on the Grand Canyon later this month. 

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD



Should be exciting times ahead - stay tuned!

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

 www.jeanrichard.com

Is it Local? Part Deux

So let's talk about "down-home".  I have come to realize that fewer and fewer things are actually made where we assume that they are.  More car companies than I care to mention trade on the idea of a GERMAN car that is perhaps about as German as I am.  Point of clarification - I am not German!

But let's talk about something that IS German, and in a wonderfully eccentrically German way -
NOMOS Glashutte!

Year of the Snake from the Chinese Timekeeper

Courtesy of the Chinese Timekeeper

As this is the year of the snake, it seems appropriate that the Chinese Timekeeper has come up with just the thing to help commemorate the event.

Victoria Princess Red Heart

Courtesy of Backes &Strauss

This is the Backes & Strauss contribution to the Only Watch auction this year.