The Archimedes Yellow Stone...

From Milus -

Courtesy of Milus

This is the latest iteration of the Milus Archimedes. The nom-de-montre: Yellow Stone.

Now word might not have filtered back to Biel/Bienne that the rather strikingly similarly named television program featuring one Kevin Costner has been cancelled and is sunsetting, not unlike the protagonist's marriage. Sorry, too soon?

Here's the thing - I want to like Milus. I was there at the Hyperion when they launched the re-birthed Milus brand back in 2019. I actually bought the third piece of the new Milus Archimedes in what is now referred to as "gravel black" - note to Milus, you might want to rethink your naming conventions... but honestly? This is a one-trick pony that has done its last trick.

Unfortunately, it seems that the brain trust at Milus has run out of new ideas, and we are getting the latest regurgitation of the 2019 original, which is now available in the aforementioned tragically named gravel black, deep blue, coral orange (little linguistic note, the correct format would be orange coral as in - what color is the coral? It's orange!), silver storm (what the ....?) and wild green. I've seen the watch, it's not that wild.

This is a brand in need of something, but another color code of a watch that is fading is probably not it.

But with all of that said, if you want to save about $300 list over the Longines Legend Diver, here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Automatic self-winding, ETA 2892A2 (TOP) calibre, 21 jewels, 42-hours power reserve, 3 o’clock date window. Pearlised and snailed bridges, blue screws, oscillating wheel with Milus logo open-worked.

CASING
Brushed / polished steel 316L, ∅41.00 mm, water resistant up to 30 ATM, helium valve. Thickness: 11.9mm (glass included). 

Lug to lug : 51mm.

STRAP
Tropic dive rubber, brushed / polished steel 316L clasp 18.00mm or Milanese mesh bracelet / polished steel 316L, clasp 20.00mm

HANDS
“Broad Arrow” hands, diamond cut & rhodium-plated with natural SuperLuminova

CROWN
Screw-down crown, Milus and Diver logo embossed

GLASS
Curved sapphire glass with inner antireflective coating

DIAL
Yellow sandblasted, natural SuperLuminova indexes

BEZEL
Bi-directional rotating dial ring

All for the low, low price of CHF 2019...

The Archimèdes Wild Green

From Milus -

Courtesy of Milus

Now ordinarily I don't write about watches on Pre-Order or Kickstarter. In this case, I own one of the Milus Archimèdes from 2019, so I feel that I am in a solid ethical position to write about this one.  That, and as I haven't seen it at some of the other, bigger (read - pay us and we'll write about you) sites, I feel okay in bringing this to you first. So rest assured, no money has changed hands, no editorial (or lack thereof) pressure has been brought to bear on Milus.  It's something a little different - it's called NON-SPONSORED content.  I know it's a little old fashioned, but you never know, maybe it will catch on ; )

Now in previous versions (blue and black) you will note that the strap included was leather.  As an early adapter, I can tell you that the original watch is quite good, but although it was promoted to come with two straps, I only received the leather. I all fairness, I purchased mine at BaselWorld and that's the way it came. As you can see from the images (should you be inclined to "click through" to the website), this one comes with a Tropic strap as well as the (if I am honest, not-so-special or good) leather strap.  My presumption is that these are OEM supplied by Rick Marei's Tropic strap brand marketed under his Synchron group banner. 

One thing that is a wee-bit different than many pre-orders, is that there are no discounts offered. The "carrot" in this instance is an additional "Tropic" strap included with the watch, and that you will get your watch earlier than the general public. Which is fair enough.

Overall, I have been quite happy with my Archimèdes, and were I to pick again, I might opt for the green dial version.  And let's just say that the Tropic strap definitely marks an improvement in the total package.  It also bears mentioning that when the  original was put out there at BaselWorld 2019, it was mentioned that it would come with 2 straps.  I honestly don't know if that ever materialized, my requests for the additional nylon strap went unanswered, possibly "lost in the mail"...

So while you will most likely not see the same "as featured on Tempus Fugit" plug on the Milus site as you will for the big dippers who will, I am sure, eventually cover this release once the money hits their accounts, here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

Automatic self-winding, ETA 2892A2 (TOP) calibre, 21 jewels, 42-hours power reserve, 3 o’clock date window. Pearlised and snailed bridges, blue screws, oscillating wheel with Milus logo open-worked.

CASING

Brushed / polished steel 316L, ∅41.00 mm, water resistant up to 30 ATM, helium valve. Thickness: 11.9mm (glass included). Lug to lug width: 51mm.

STRAP

Tropic dive rubber, brushed / polished steel 316L clasp 18.00mm

HANDS

“Broad Arrow” hands, diamond cut & rhodium-plated with natural SuperLuminova

CROWN

Screw-down crown, Milus and Diver logo embossed

GLASS

Curved sapphire glass with inner antireflective coating

DIAL

Green vertical brushed, natural SuperLuminova indexes

BEZEL

Bi-directional rotating dial ring, screwed crowns, helium valve

CASE BACK

Screw-down case back

The Snow Star

From Milus -

Courtesy of Milus

The third, and in many ways for some of us, most exciting piece in the initial three model family offering for Milus is the Snow Star.

As I previously mentioned, I got more than a jump on my colleagues in the 4th and 5th Estate as Milus was one of the brands participating at The HYPE during BaselWeek this past March.  

The former Sleeping Beauty was awoken from a rather unfortunate slumber a few years ago when the brand was purchased by none other than Luc Tissot.

It is available in the silver version (above) which is based on the original -

  

The red date is that extra something that really adds to the watch.
The only thing that I would change?  I would use an "inverted cyclops" date window for the crystal, as I think it adds a certain "what's it" to the watch overall.

It is also available in a very attractive black version -

Courtesy of Milus

The case is a very welcome 39 mm in diameter, and is of polished stainless steel.  A very traditionally laid out dial, hours minutes, seconds and date.  The movement is ETA's 2892A2  (TOP).

And the packaging is actually useful!

Courtesy of Milus

Priced (at least in my opinion) quite fairly at CHF 1,690, direct from Milus.

The Lab 01

From Milus -

Courtesy of Milus 

This is one of the three model families introduced by the newly revitalized Milus during BaselWeek at The HYPE this past March.

Courtesy of Milus

This is, to my way of thinking, a pretty cool departure from the norm, and what is expected.  Most brands will make a brass dial, paint it and call it done.  Even when they go for some "effects" the effects are really more "affectation".  The dial is of fiberglass!  Think about that for a moment!  

I am a guy trapped in three different periods.  I am a huge fan of Bauhaus, but also of mid-century modern (Eames, et. al.) Atomic Ranch sensibilities.  BUT... I am somewhat partial to things that work well, in a modern context, without needing constant repair and attention.  The Lab 01 ticks all of those boxes for me!

Courtesy of Milus

It is available in three different color ways - light grey (above), dark grey and blue.  Having seen them all in person?  They are dope!  And at a suggested retail price of CHF 990?  C'mon, you can't beat that with a stick!

The case measures 40 mm, and is polished stainless steel. Hours, minutes and seconds, the movement is Sellita's SW200.

The Coolest Things at Basel - The ARCHIMÈDES

In the time honored tradition of all of my colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estates, I too will now share with you what I found to be the coolest items at Basel.  I'm going to be spooling them out one at a time.  

I will kick it off with the feel-good, love-song-triumphant return of Milus.

The story of Milus is a long one, and we'll dig in deeper in a future post, but for many of us we are well-acquainted with the Snow Star.  And again, we'll get deeper into that in another future post ; )

But suffice it to say, not so long ago Milus went dark.  And it looked as if it might stay that way until one Luc Tissot rode into Biel/Bienne and saved the day!  The result was the re-launch this year of Milus.  And to their credit, this was one of the sanest, most intelligent launches I have seen in Basel for some time.  No fashion models, no "famous friends" of the brand, and most certainly not a million different SKUs (Models).  They brought three models, limited color ways, and a clear communication of what Milus is now.

And one model, in particular, caught my eye -

This is the Archimedes. It is available in blue, or my favorite, black.

A solid case back is just one of the many thoughtful design details that I really appreciated.  It is in keeping with the theme of the watch, and let's be honest, why would you want a display back on a vintage inspired watch?

And what is that?  Why an HRV valve, of course!  Which you might expect on a watch costing three times the amount.

A wonderfully soft, yet strong leather strap with signed buckle instead of the all too often used deployment buckle.  Again, it maintains the spirit of the watch itself.  The strap is a "quick spring" version allowing you to change the strap without a tool.  It will also ship with a cordura/sport strap to allow you to enjoy your Milus in the briny deep.

And it is all rounded out by the packaging - a wonderfully practical solution - a leather zippered pouch that can be used for travel.  

The case measures 41 mm and is of stainless steel.  The movement is ETA's 2892A2 "Top".  Helium release valve and internal bi-directional bezel.  Water resistant to 300 meters / 1000 feet.

Suggested retail is CHF 1919 and if I understood correctly, it is available for order now.

 

Milus and the Beautiful Game

This just in from Milus -

Courtesy of Milus (version 2/3)

A new chronograph to honor Roberto Carlos.

Roberto Carlos and Milus

This just in from Milus -

Roberto Carlos has become the latest Milus “friend of the brand.” The star footballer visited the company booth at the Geneva Time Exhibition on January 22 and is now the happy owner of a Tirion TriRetrograde TIRI017.

Courtesy of Milus Roberto Carlos being presented his new Milus by Cyril Dubois, General Manager Milus International SA

During his scintillating career, Carlos, whose speed and stunning curved shots earned him world-wide admiration, played for the Brazilian national team during for three World Cups. 

Courtesy of Milus

After eleven years with Real Madrid, he went on to captain Dagestan’s Anzhi Makhatchkala team, which he continues to coach after retiring from active football in August 2012.

Courtesy of Milus

The TriRetrograde mechanism

A Milus exclusive, the 3838 TriRetrograde mechanism displays the seconds on three separate arcs at 6, 9 and 3 o'clock. The three hands travel twenty seconds successively, each "passing the torch" to the next one and returning with lightning speed to its point of departure. This great animated ballet, which keeps repeating itself tirelessly, makes the passage of time a playful and fascinating spectacle.

Reference: TIRI017

Movement: ETA 2892-A2 H8 / Milus 3838, 40 hours power reserve

Type: Mechanical, self-winding


Functions: Hours, minutes, triretrograde seconds, date

Case: Black DLC-treated stainless steel, Ø 45 mm - Genuine carbon bezel - Curved sapphire crystal - Sapphire crystal case back secured with 6 screws

Dial: Genuine carbon dial plate with Arabic numerals and indexes, center part in genuine carbon, retrograde seconds display on black bridges - Date window at 4 o'clock

Hands: Silver coloured faceted skeleton hour, minute and second hands partially coated with white luminescent treatment

Strap/Bracelet: Black calfskin leather with carbon finishing and white stitching

Clasp: Pin buckle - TIR017F Folding buckle Water Resistance: 30 metres


Label: SWISS MADE 

Milus unveils a new version of the Tirion TriRetrograde

Courtesy of Milus

Previously available in 45 and 47 mm sizes, Milus introduces a new interpretation of their flagship collection with the 42 mm Tirion TriRetrograde.  The 3838 TriRetrograde utilizes an exclusive mechanism that utilizes three separate arc shaped sub dials to display the seconds.  The visual effect is in some ways reminiscent of a domino pattern - the first counter completing its measurement to be followed by the second, and then the third - as if they are chasing each other around the dial.

www.milus.com
 

The Milus Snow Star Watch

This is something new from Milus which I think is INCREDIBLY cool!

Courtesy of Milus

According to the press release, during the 40s US Navy pilots were given items that could be traded.  These were sometimes referred to as "life barter kits".

Courtesy of Milus

Milus has gone back into the past to offer something that I sincerely feel transcends trends.

Here is the release straight from Milus -

A watch at the heart of history

During the 1940s, US Navy pilots were given valuable tradable items along on their

missions to ensure their survival. These “life barter kits” contained notably a Milus Snow Star watch. Today, Milus is paying homage to this flagship model from its own history – and history in general – by re-issuing the Snow Star in two limited editions, one in red gold and the other in steel. They come with cufflinks of very original design.

Navy pilots were sometimes forced to land in unknown, even hostile, territory. So the US Navy operating in the Pacific decided to give them hermetically sealed rubber boxes containing valuable items that would allow them, in the event of a parachute jump or forced landing, to negotiate for information, for their freedom or even their lives. This “life barter kit” contained among others two rings, a chain with a gold pendant and a watch from Milus, the Snow Star “Instant Date”, with an instant calendar and very stylish look. It was a choice that bore witness to the excellent technical and aesthetic reputation of the Swiss brand. In honour of the “Life barter kit”, which most probably saved many lives, Milus is now offering two exclusive editions of the Snow Star aimed at aficionados of beautiful watches rooted in history. 

Courtesy of Milus

Limited edition “Snow Star Heritage” in 18-ct red gold
 

This watch in 18-ct red gold is being offered in a limited series of 99 numbered pieces. The 40-

millimetre polished case contains an original, 1940’s manual movement that has been entirely

overhauled, with a sweep second hand an instant date that appears in a window with a

magnifying lens. The red gold underscores the timeless quality of the case, with its narrow,

smooth bezel and incurved lugs. The dial is the epitome of readability and refinement, with a

sun-brushed silvery backdrop and two types of applied facetted red gold-plated hour markers.

The screwed case back reflects the aesthetics of the original timepiece: satined and polished

finishing, engraved model name and historical Milus logo, a stylised rendition of the Greek god

Courtesy of Milus

of travellers, Hermes, with his winged helmet. The watch has a black alligator strap and an

ardillon buckle of 18-carat red gold, plus a changing system that does not require a tool. It comes

with an additional aeronautic strap that celebrates the one found in the original “life barter kits”.

The strap can be easily slid under the attachment bars.

As testimony to the “Life barter kit,” Milus decided to deliver the red-gold Snow Star watch with

a piece of men’s “jewellery” related to the world of aviation: a pair of red gold cufflinks with a

very original design. One represents an airplane from the front, with a golden propeller turning

with the movements of the wearer’s wrist, the other is a real compass that will always indicate

the right direction. It’s a playful accessory, sophisticated as well, like all Milus watches. The

ensemble is presented in an elegant leather-covered box, with an 18-ct gold military

identification tag showing the number of the limited edition.

The Snow Star is also available in stainless steel -

Limited edition “Snow Star Heritage” in steel

The steel watch has been issued at 1940 numbered pieces. The case and dial display the same

contemporary geometry as the red gold model, however with rhodium-plated indices. The Swissmade,

automatic mechanical movement guarantees maximum precision when displaying the

hours, minutes and seconds – and of course the date that instantly jumps at midnight. This

timepiece can either be worn with a black calf-skin strap or on an additional strap celebrating its

historical past in aviation. For those who appreciate objects with a strong character, Milus has

complemented the watch with a pair of cufflinks of very modern design, each incorporating a

compass. The vintage style presentation box also contains a silver military identification tag with

the number of the limited edition and the historic Milus logo.

www.milus.com