The Archimedes Yellow Stone...

From Milus -

Courtesy of Milus

This is the latest iteration of the Milus Archimedes. The nom-de-montre: Yellow Stone.

Now word might not have filtered back to Biel/Bienne that the rather strikingly similarly named television program featuring one Kevin Costner has been cancelled and is sunsetting, not unlike the protagonist's marriage. Sorry, too soon?

Here's the thing - I want to like Milus. I was there at the Hyperion when they launched the re-birthed Milus brand back in 2019. I actually bought the third piece of the new Milus Archimedes in what is now referred to as "gravel black" - note to Milus, you might want to rethink your naming conventions... but honestly? This is a one-trick pony that has done its last trick.

Unfortunately, it seems that the brain trust at Milus has run out of new ideas, and we are getting the latest regurgitation of the 2019 original, which is now available in the aforementioned tragically named gravel black, deep blue, coral orange (little linguistic note, the correct format would be orange coral as in - what color is the coral? It's orange!), silver storm (what the ....?) and wild green. I've seen the watch, it's not that wild.

This is a brand in need of something, but another color code of a watch that is fading is probably not it.

But with all of that said, if you want to save about $300 list over the Longines Legend Diver, here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Automatic self-winding, ETA 2892A2 (TOP) calibre, 21 jewels, 42-hours power reserve, 3 o’clock date window. Pearlised and snailed bridges, blue screws, oscillating wheel with Milus logo open-worked.

CASING
Brushed / polished steel 316L, ∅41.00 mm, water resistant up to 30 ATM, helium valve. Thickness: 11.9mm (glass included). 

Lug to lug : 51mm.

STRAP
Tropic dive rubber, brushed / polished steel 316L clasp 18.00mm or Milanese mesh bracelet / polished steel 316L, clasp 20.00mm

HANDS
“Broad Arrow” hands, diamond cut & rhodium-plated with natural SuperLuminova

CROWN
Screw-down crown, Milus and Diver logo embossed

GLASS
Curved sapphire glass with inner antireflective coating

DIAL
Yellow sandblasted, natural SuperLuminova indexes

BEZEL
Bi-directional rotating dial ring

All for the low, low price of CHF 2019...

The Mayor of the Ramada

I have a lot of memories of BaselWorld. Curious to relate? The majority of them took place in the Hotel formerly known as the Ramada - the Hyperion. Anyone who had ever visited BaselWorld before it ceased operations would know about the lobby of that hotel. It wasn't necessarily glamorous, at least before it became the Hyperion. But what it did have? It had a lot of tables. And these tables in the lobby became the epicenter for where the real deals at BaselWorld would take place. You want to negotiate a deal? You sure as hell wouldn't do it in a booth in Hall 1! You'd go somewhere the press wouldn't find you because they were too busy running around the booths. But the Ramada/Hyperion was more than just a spot for confidential business rendezvous, it was also a spot for small independent brands to pitch their tents and introduce the more intrepid journalists (like yours truly) to their brands. And the undisputed Mayor of the Ramada was Daniel Simon Dreifuss -

I first encountered Daniel at my first BaselWorld visit as a member of the press, back in 2011. The blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit was by no means a known quantity by any stretch of the imagination. But Daniel had reached out via email on my second to last day and we arranged to meet.

And I introduced him to a few other journalists while I was at it ; )

But what Daniel would go on to do at subsequent fairs was emblematic of what made him so well known in Watch Town. Daniel realized that the best, most time and cost effective way to spread the word about Maurice de Mauriac was to plant a flag in the middle of the second busiest intersection at BaselWorld - the lobby of the Ramada. The lobby of the Ramada was not unlike Rick's Bar in the movie Casablanca. It was the one place, that sooner or later, everyone would pass through.

And it was there you would see Daniel, wearing something colorful and fun, jumping out of his seat to shake your hand, and then dipping into his signature leather tote bag to bring forth his latest watches, along with NATO straps of every color and pattern.

The last time I spoke with Daniel was September, 2021. I was returning home following a consulting trip in Neuchatel and had a day stopover in Zurich. He was running late, so I checked out the watches, and spoke with his sons. In the end he came in somewhat flustered from all of the errands he was busy taking care of that morning. If I remember correctly, he was in the process of either building or refurbishing a home in Italy.

Word reached Henki Time's North Shore offices early this morning that Daniel Simon Dreifuss had passed away. And if I am honest, this marks a fairly big turning point. Daniel was a larger than life personality - but in the best possible way. He made a lasting impression on everyone he met, and he will be sorely missed. 

His two sons had already taken over the business, and I suspect that they will continue on, making those human connections.

So what is there left to say? Well, thank you Daniel. You made Watch Town a whole lot more interesting! You will be missed, and certainly not forgotten. 

Go easy, and God's speed.

The Grand Cœur

From Maurice de Mauriac -

Courtesy of Maurice de Mauriac

I'm not going to lie to you sports fans, I'm conflicted by this one. I've shared the Hyperion lobby with Daniel Dreifuss on more than one occasion, and he is charming beyond belief. I genuinely enjoy seeing him every year, and I am sorry to have missed him this year. I can't really say the same for at least one of the heirs apparent, but life moves forward, and with luck they will grow into their roles and carry the brand forward. 

If you're a fan of hyperbole, put on a napkin, because this press release is dripping with it -

Next generation takes over family run watch brand Maurice de Mauriac Zurich

Grand Cœur – the first watch of the Dreifuss brothers

12 November 2020 – Grand Cœur. This is the name of the new watch from the Zurich brand Maurice de Mauriac. The watch is the birth certificate for a new era: The Grand Cœur is the first watch developed only by Massimo and Leonard Dreifuss, the sons of founder Daniel Dreifuss, who are now taking over the sceptre.

To mark this new era the brothers have worked tirelessly to bring out the Grand Cœur. From its conception, to its design and development, brothers Massimo (28) and Leonard Dreifuss (25), have built the Grand Cœur, as both a homage to their father and as a beacon emblematic of the future vision the brand hopes to embark on. The watch aims to symbolise and honour life, and is therefore customised with its own personalised heartbeat for its wearer.

So anyway...
Back to the watch -

To mark this new era the brothers have worked tirelessly to bring out the Grand Cœur. From its conception, to its design and development, brothers Massimo (28) and Leonard Dreifuss (25), have built the Grand Cœur, as both a homage to their father and as a beacon emblematic of the future vision the brand hopes to embark on. The watch aims to symbolise and honour life, and is therefore customised with its own personalised heartbeat for its wearer.

Grand Cœur – a watch with a heart

For their first creation, the Dreifuss brothers have opted for an exceptional Manufacture movement with a high degree of transparency in a typical Maurice de Mauriac case. The heart of the watch beats behind the red sapphire crystal of the "L3 sees red", the last watch developed by their father, which is used as the red crystal back for the Grand Cœur and reveals the mechanical automatic movement.

The Grand Cœur pulses with the Concepto Manufacture REF 3038 calibre, an automatic movement with a central rotor. It beats 28,800 times per hour, has an Incabloc shock protection system, 29 jewels and 48 hours of power reserve. For the Grand Cœur, the balance wheel and escapement are moved to the top of the movement. The titanium case with a diameter of 45mm has a DLC coating, a domed sapphire crystal and screw-down pushers. The strap is made of rubber with red stitching.

Pop-up store in the heart of Zurich

The Grand Cœur is available online, in the Zurich shop and from 19 November to 24 December in the pop-up store at Bleicherweg 10 in the heart of Zurich for 11,145 GBP / 14,700 USD. The watch is limited to 48 pieces. The number stands for the place where the Grand Cœur comes to life and where the heart of the Grand Cœur first beat - in the Atelier at Tödistrasse 48 in Zurich.

Courtesy of Maurice de Mauriac

Now myself, I am not too crazy about anything "pulsing" near my hand, but maybe that's just me.

At just south of $15,000, I hope it also makes espresso. You gotta' be able to punch your weight, and this one is, I'm sorry to say, a bit of a stretch. Once you get to that price point, you have a lot of options. But we will wait, and we will see. And let's hope it is a success.

Severin's Children, and the New Gucci Grip

It's very funny to be sitting here, going on 10:00 PM north of Boston, now nearly 11 years since his passing, to be thinking of Severin Wunderman.

One of the real gifts that writing this little blog has brought me is friendship.  Friendships that would not have happened otherwise.  And within the hard-core journeymen, the real dyed in the wool guys and gals who came up in the late 80s in 90s is a group who frequently identify themselves as "Severin's Children".  These are folks who have had lofty positions, run major brands and companies, and still hold sway with even the most demanding of customers.  And yet?  They still look back on their time with either Gucci or later Corum as perhaps the most formative time in their careers.  I have met the great and the good in the watch business, and to be honest?  A lot of them are pretty underwhelming.  And I have learned over time, that you have to nose your way around the lobby of the Hyperion during BaselWorld to rub shoulders with the real movers and shakers.  It's easy to get a job and be a "company" man or woman. But it takes something special to light out on your own, taking the lessons you've learned and create your own thing.  And this is a quality that has marked the continuing success of Severin's Children.

But as I often say, you don't live in the past.  When Mr. Sofisti left Gucci Watches, there was a loss.  And if I am honest, I wasn't really feeling it.  Going several years without an appointment (despite requests) at BaselWorld didn't help either ; )

But, again, you don't live in the past!  And the latest advertising campaign, when taken in tandem with one of the latest models, the Grip, shows that Gucci seems to have some wonderful new life breathing through it!

Ladies and Gentlemen, and children of all ages...

The Grip -

Courtesy of Gucci

Courtesy of Gucci

Courtesy of Gucci

Courtesy of Gucci

Like some of Mr. Wunderman's greatest hits, these latest Gucci designs are not necessarily going to be everyones choice.  They are not "safe", but to be honest?  They speak to me.  And although as a former "watch ad guy" (you might remember me from such campaigns as "The Inventors of Orange") most of the stuff churning through the watch press really puts me to sleep, I have to say that I am sorta' digging the Gucci campaign.  Why?  
Well because in the words of one of "Severin's Children", Roderick Hess -   "You can't email a handshake."

Per Gucci's release -

Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s Creative Director, conceived Gucci’s new advertising campaign for its timepieces after being inspired by the most human of interactions: the handshake. A warm gesture of inclusivity, the handshake becomes the true character of the campaign. Depicting a charismatic and confident leader on the campaign trail, photographer Ari Marcopoulos portrays and debunks the image of power in a series of meet-and-greets, emphasizing the diversity of the personalities that a campaigner could encounter on his travels.

Courtesy of Gucci

Now, gentle reader, I know that Mr. Wunderman is no longer with Gucci, and has not been for some time.  And I know that the Grip, and this new campaign are the work of other talented, creative people - Alessandro Michele for one!  But I can say that at least for this humble reporter, it feels like the magic is back!  So well done Gucci, let's see if you can extend the magic!

Enjoy your watches.