Still Searching For Severin

I was reminded by a reader that yesterday, June 25, marked 13 years since Severin Wunderman passed away and left a gap in the watch industry that has yet to be filled (though many have tried). As mentioned frequently here before, I never got the chance to meet Mr. Wunderman, as I was still on the other side of the booth working for DOXA in the US when I learned of his passing. I reached out to my boss and asked if we should send a condolence message, and he freaked out and said "No, and never contact anyone in other brands!" Needless to say he was, and continues to be, a wee bit paranoid ; )

I sent a card anyway.

In the years since I left DOXA, I joined first the Fifth, then the Fourth Estate getting to meet many luminaries in Watch Town, and began to consult behind the scenes with brands both mighty and modest. And what I found fascinating was the number of people I encountered who had worked for Severin Wunderman during his Gucci and later Corum days, a group of men and women who still sometimes refer to themselves as "Severin's Children". 

I remember asking one friend who referred to himself as one of "Severin's Children"- 

"You're Severin Wunderman's son?" (I was a little green back then and easily impressed).

"No, but he was the person who really launched my career in the watch business".

I've met more people with similar stories than I've had hot meals in a given December. And I have borrowed some of the strategies that these folks have shared with me, and pay them forward to brands that I consult with, and have put them to work with my little project, the Oberlin Watch Company.

What continues to fascinate me, these many years later, is really how simple Mr. Wunderman's formulas were. But that's a topic for another day. Today I want to share a story that one of "Severin's Children" shared with me last December -

"It was back in 1997 when I was decorating the booth windows of our Baselworld stand. The windows had a big iconic GUCCI-G inside with one high heel shoe in the middle of this big G. We only displayed one watch in the entire window! It was around 10pm that I was flirting with an employee of our neighboring booth from Bucherer (not yet Carl F. Bucherer at that time). Her name was Beatrice. That's when she told me that I was a bit mean to let this "old" decorator work so late, and she told me that I should be ashamed of myself. Severin was wearing this four /five day beard and wasn‘t dressed in one of his suits, with the type of class that only he or Cary Grant had! There is no way that she could believe that this creative, fine, small, thin man and "great decorator" getting the booth ready was the boss of GUCCI timepieces! Then I told her that this old decorator was Severin. I asked her to try to imagine that Mr. Bucherer would be there decorating the booth with her right now, or Mr. Hayek Sr. was decorating the OMEGA booth. She didn‘t believe me at first and so I called Severin over and introduced him to Beatrice, who as it happened was probably the one of the most successful people at selling GUCCI timepieces in the Bucherer flagship store in Lucerne. And he immediately started to flirt with her in his own elegant way and invited us all for dinner. But remember; it was already after 10pm and this was 1997 in Switzerland. Usually restaurants at this time even in Basel closed their kitchens at 9:30/10:00pm, at that time especially one day before the official opening of the show. So he asked me to call Jeoffrey. Only insiders know that this was the preferred Indian restaurant of Severin in Basel which was run by the famous Jeoffrey, a wonderful gentlemen from Malaysia. And of course we not only got our table, but had dinner long after midnight. The next day Severin walked into the hall and to our booth in a suit with a class and elegance with his beautiful butterfly brooch, cigar at the ready. Yes, at that time cigars we‘re still allowed inside the holy halls of Basel... and then we started the the press presentation of the G-300 club, as well as a group of "only" 300 selected jewelers worldwide who were allowed to order and sell the G-Watch in gold! The press conference was such a huge success that so many journalists and attendees attended to our conference that they nearly had to cue up all the way to the Bucherer booth, where Beatrice was standing and waving over to Severin, who greeted her with a wonderful and beautiful smile that only he could have. We all miss this wonderful smile. I only recently saw it again in the face and eyes of his grandson. The spirit of Severin will always live on in all of us. And of course the G-300 collection was also sold by Bucherer in Lucerne. And guess which point of sale sold most of them in the whole world, and more specifically I mean which salesperson? Yes, that would be Beatrice! And that was part of the magic he had, Severin made all of us feel like part of his wonderful family!"

21 Years Later, The Bubble Hasn't Burst

This is the Bubble X-Ray -

Courtesy of Corum

It is hard for me to look back to 2000 and not remember all of the buzz and excitement that the Corum Bubble created. In fairness, there were plenty of doubters and more than a few haters.

I can honestly say that for my part, I was on team Severin with this one, but I appreciate that it clearly wasn't everyone's baby.

Well, 21 years later and the Bubble clearly has a whole new raft of fans, and the skull is back!

Limited to 88 pieces, the case measures a robust 47 mm in diameter, and is of PVD treated stainless steel. The movement is the CO 082, which is self-winding/automatic.

Not So Much A Review - A Meditation on the Corum Bubble and Severin Wunderman

So this review marks a bit of an ending, but also a beginning of sorts. And it has raised one crucial question - either I've been doing this too long, or I have finally gotten to the place that I wanted to be.

So here it is, the last review at Tempus Fugit -

The Bubble is a watch that has, in truth, haunted me for YEARS. And to that extent, this VERY long review has actually been more of a meditation on the Bubble and what it meant and what it still means.

It is safe to say that without Severin Wunderman there would be no Bubble. But that is short sighted, because in truth? Without Severin Wunderman there would likely not be a Corum today. And to put it more plainly, I still find it funny that when the "noted watch journalists" roll out their lists of innovators who changed the watch business with their designs, or their business acumen, Severin Wunderman is really almost an after thought, and that is simply nuts. 

At the time he took over Corum, he took over what was, if we are all honest about it, a shell of what it had been. And prevailing wisdom would have held that you simply air out and play your greatest hits. But Mr. Wunderman had a different idea. And when the Bubble hit, it came out around the same time as the Trapeze and a few other ideas that are maybe best left in the past. But the Bubble, though maligned by some as sacrilegious, planted the flag for what Corum would become.

And then just as suddenly as it arrived, it disappeared. Corum had shifted again, and all thoughts of the Bubble appeared to have been effectively banished. 

I started Tempus Fugit going on 11 years ago, and at that time the Bubble had, well, burst. Mr. Wunderman passed away in 2008, 2 years before Tempus Fugit began so I never had the opportunity to meet him. But the thing about icons, is that they are, well, iconic. There are a lot of cool designs out there, but a cool design, on its own, is like an orphan.  It needs a champion to introduce it to the world and help it reach its potential. 

Then BaselWorld 2015 rolled around. I remember seeing 3 Bubbles lurking under a small drop cloth in the booth during a group presentation. And my hunch about the identity of the shrouded Corum proved to be correct, the Bubble had come back again. Which nearly brings us up to today.

I have seen a lot happen in the world of watches over the past 10 (PLUS) years. I have reviewed a fair amount of timekeepers, and through that process I have come to realize that ultimately there is really no such thing as a truly objective review, and more often than not, a review isn't really even that. Titles like "Hands On" only really tell you that the "reviewer" has seen and held a given watch, but most likely not worn it beyond the "showroom". Add to that the money changing hands (sometimes subtly, sometimes not so much), and it occurs to me that the watch review has grown into more of a marketing effort than an attempt to gain much factual insight.

As I said at the beginning of this post, I have either been doing this too long, or I have finally arrived at the place I want to be.

I once went on a job interview where I was asked -

"What's your favorite ice cream flavor?"

For the record - it's pistachio. And in many ways I would say that if TODAY'S Corum Bubble had a demographic of sorts, it would be the pistachio crowd.  If you think about it, pistachio is a bit broader in scope than the big three - chocolate, vanilla or strawberry (Rolex, Patek and Omega). But it is also not so "off the rails" and pleading for attention and shock value like Rocky Road, or Bubblegum (HYT). It's a (now) standard size and shape (albeit its own unique one), and can now act as a canvas that can be used to paint a lot of different stories. My all-time favorite Bubble illustrates the Ying and Yang or duality of the Bubble -

Courtesy of Prestige Time

Truly the world on your wrist, with the (very) domed sapphire crystal emphasizing that the world is, indeed, round.

All good things inevitably must come to an end, and my time with this particular Bubble is now up.

So for those tuning in late, this is the Bubble Baron Samedi/Voodoo 47MM. The Baron Samedi has come in a few iterations, and if my sources are correct, this was part of a later series (2016) with the original debuting in 2006 (if memory serves).

So let's talk about size. The current Bubble collection has definitely increased in size. But curious to relate, what would normally be oppressively huge on my wrist was actually not so bad -

In large part, this is due to a lovely curving of the lugs. They almost hug the wearer's wrist.

The movement is self-winding (Automatic)-

The strap is rubber and very, very comfortable.

The case is of stainless steel, and even with a non-screw down crown the watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance.

The timekeeping was beyond reproach, and I have to admit, I truly enjoyed the double takes that my companion, the Baron Samedi drew from passers by, even during these days of COVID thinned crowds.

So is the Corum Bubble for you? If it were 2000 - 2003 I think the answer would be a resounding "Hells Yeah!".  That's the thing about being an "it" watch. At that time it was a pretty easy sell, and when I was working at Tourneau I was frustrated that we didn't have the Bubble (they were reserved for Neiman Marcus, just down the street from us), because I could have sold the heck out of them.

But the beauty of the Bubble today is that in many ways, it has now transcended that time and place - the turn of the century. It is not trying to please everyone, and like pistachio ice cream is not going to  be such an obvious choice. 

But then again, if you are reading Tempus Fugit, chances are that you don't necessarily bob along in the water with all the other floaters, drifting from trend to trend ; )

As for me? Well, if these past months have done anything, they have confirmed my love for the Bubble. And for me, that love is not a really something that can be proven empirically. To a large extent, you either get today's Bubble, or you don't. And I get it.  Or to quote that other great commentator on watches - Chaka Khan:

"I feel for you."

So from the review bureau at Tempus Fugit, this is your old pal Henki signing off.

Enjoy your watches!

Seven Days with the Corum Bubble and Severin Wunderman

I have met a bunch of people since entering the watch business back in 2003. But there is one person, one man that I always wanted to meet, but sadly never did as he passed in 2008, 2 years before I moved from the brand side of the BaselWorld booth to the other side.   

Courtesy of Corum

When Wendy and I first moved back to the US in 2000, it was almost exactly the same time that Mr. Wunderman pulled off what is probably still the single greatest comebacks in the watch business when he hung up his apron at Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf and moved back to running things with Corum.

And let's just say that he wasn't planning on playing it safe.  The Bubble stirred a lot of feelings - none of them neutral ; )

I personally loved it, and was probably the most irritating guest in the Corum booth when not unlike Mr. Wunderman, the Bubble made a stirring comeback of its own - and I caught a glimpse of one of the three new versions hiding under the drop cloth.

So yes, the next seven days will be about a review, but they will also about Mr. Wunderman.  

So stay tuned!

I'm a Dapper Dan Man!

Okay, this post is a bit of a mash-up.  But then again, the inspiration is perhaps one of the greatest improvisers of fashion in the 80s, who is back on top with a collaboration with Gucci.  

Believe it or not, I have followed Dapper Dan for quite a little bit of time.  Daniel R. Day is someone who truly epitomizes the drive, determination and hustle of the entrepreneur.  But more than that, Mr. Day had (and has) his finger on the pulse of what people want.  Equal parts salesman, designer, dreamer and alchemist.  I have been reading his memoir this past week and really enjoyed it.  

But speaking of mash ups, in reading Mr. Day's memoir, I was reminded of another hustler who changed an industry, also with Gucci - Severin Wunderman.  I never met Mr. Wunderman so I have had to rely on several of Severin's Children to get a handle on how he did things at Gucci and later Corum.  

And then it hit me - I don't know if anyone at Gucci reads this little "bloggy-wog", but it occurred to me that a Gucci - Dapper Dan watch collaboration would be something to behold, and in keeping with the vibe of the man who started it all.

So Gucci, if you're listening, this idea is a freebie - help yourself and make it happen!

Severin's Children, and the New Gucci Grip

It's very funny to be sitting here, going on 10:00 PM north of Boston, now nearly 11 years since his passing, to be thinking of Severin Wunderman.

One of the real gifts that writing this little blog has brought me is friendship.  Friendships that would not have happened otherwise.  And within the hard-core journeymen, the real dyed in the wool guys and gals who came up in the late 80s in 90s is a group who frequently identify themselves as "Severin's Children".  These are folks who have had lofty positions, run major brands and companies, and still hold sway with even the most demanding of customers.  And yet?  They still look back on their time with either Gucci or later Corum as perhaps the most formative time in their careers.  I have met the great and the good in the watch business, and to be honest?  A lot of them are pretty underwhelming.  And I have learned over time, that you have to nose your way around the lobby of the Hyperion during BaselWorld to rub shoulders with the real movers and shakers.  It's easy to get a job and be a "company" man or woman. But it takes something special to light out on your own, taking the lessons you've learned and create your own thing.  And this is a quality that has marked the continuing success of Severin's Children.

But as I often say, you don't live in the past.  When Mr. Sofisti left Gucci Watches, there was a loss.  And if I am honest, I wasn't really feeling it.  Going several years without an appointment (despite requests) at BaselWorld didn't help either ; )

But, again, you don't live in the past!  And the latest advertising campaign, when taken in tandem with one of the latest models, the Grip, shows that Gucci seems to have some wonderful new life breathing through it!

Ladies and Gentlemen, and children of all ages...

The Grip -

Courtesy of Gucci

Courtesy of Gucci

Courtesy of Gucci

Courtesy of Gucci

Like some of Mr. Wunderman's greatest hits, these latest Gucci designs are not necessarily going to be everyones choice.  They are not "safe", but to be honest?  They speak to me.  And although as a former "watch ad guy" (you might remember me from such campaigns as "The Inventors of Orange") most of the stuff churning through the watch press really puts me to sleep, I have to say that I am sorta' digging the Gucci campaign.  Why?  
Well because in the words of one of "Severin's Children", Roderick Hess -   "You can't email a handshake."

Per Gucci's release -

Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s Creative Director, conceived Gucci’s new advertising campaign for its timepieces after being inspired by the most human of interactions: the handshake. A warm gesture of inclusivity, the handshake becomes the true character of the campaign. Depicting a charismatic and confident leader on the campaign trail, photographer Ari Marcopoulos portrays and debunks the image of power in a series of meet-and-greets, emphasizing the diversity of the personalities that a campaigner could encounter on his travels.

Courtesy of Gucci

Now, gentle reader, I know that Mr. Wunderman is no longer with Gucci, and has not been for some time.  And I know that the Grip, and this new campaign are the work of other talented, creative people - Alessandro Michele for one!  But I can say that at least for this humble reporter, it feels like the magic is back!  So well done Gucci, let's see if you can extend the magic!

Enjoy your watches.

The Transfer Window Has Openend...

At Eterna/Corum.  Word trickled down to the Boston Metro area, and after a week of useless effort, we finally got two sources of confirmation (albeit not official) but if the rumblings are true, it would seem that the Widowmaker has struck again, and Jérôme Biard will be exploring career opportunities outside of the gates of La Chaux-de-Fonds.  Making this an even shorter tenure than the last few predecessors.  What the reasons for the rather short period in charge are (at least to the team at Tempus Fugit HQ) unclear, it would seem that the catamaran that is Eterna/Corum is once again without a captain.

Now before you all start rolling your eyes, and click out to go read the "feelgood" tripe over at some of the other sites, I would beg your indulgence.  I know that I can be a bit of a "henki-raincloud" but I also think it might be time to stop (collectively) clapping like seals when a brand dangles a shiny new celebrity partner, a fancy new tourbillon, or treats our favorite instafamous personalies (i.e. not you) for a fun night out at the SIHH and instead face some realities.

The watch industry is still very much in turmoil.  Think I'm full of it?  Even the smiling swells over at that other outlet that starts with an H have indicated that, in fact, the outcome from the SIHH was not nearly as rosy as might be hoped after they (the SIHH) had hosed BaselWorld out of some of their shining stars over the past few years.  Curious to relate, watch brands actually need to sell actual watches to actual clients that have actual customers who will actually buy said watch.  And actually?  Said people were not exactly abundant in the halls of Geneva.

Here's another fun factoid - the majority of watches sold in the world are (brace yourself) not covered by the majority of the watch media, because, well, they're junk.  Or at least that's what we believe, and try to have you believe.  But also curious to relate, one person's junk is another person's treasure.  I have met many people who still treasure their base metal Timex owing to the personal connection that they have to the watch.  Another fun fact that is probably lost on the Commerce Secretary of the US, as it would have been on another watch fan - Marie Antoinette, is that the majority of watches bought and sold in the world are WAY less expensive than those sold by Richemont, SWATCH Group, or in this case Eterna and Corum.  

And I promise, this is where I tie it together ; )

When you are making (albeit through third-party assemblers) marketing (and hopefully) selling something that nobody needs, you need to actually focus on all of the things surrounding the watch.  As my old master sales sensei (Javi Perrigo) used to remind me - "You have to romance the watch".  A watch, in and of itself, is merely a device to tell time (assuming it's working correctly and the rotor hasn't disengaged itself from the movement proper and is bouncing around the case).  Now obviously, a big part of that is down to marketing.  But another big part of that is the "feeling" of and for the brand with the general public, and that is not an "instafamous" thing.  A quick personal example - I am going to purchase an "instant" camera for BaselWorld so that I can get a quick shot of watches of interest during visits, print them out immediately and tape them into my notebook along with the pertinents so that when I review the digital images, it will all be familiar.  Now I could buy a less-expensive model, but truth be told I have had my eye on Leica's Sofort.  It is easily twice as expensive as other brand's models (which relatively speaking is still pretty low), it works just as well as models that Fuji makes for half the price, but it still speaks to me.  Part of this is the actual product design, part of this is the Leica history (which is silly, because I have been led to understand that under the paint, it is the same thing that Fuji will sell me for 50% less).  But yet I still want it.

Think about that for a moment, and then I think that why some brands succeed and others perpetually choke on the bone becomes clear.  Leica knows their market, and they communicate in a way that is understandable and inclusive.  Eterna and Corum in many ways have everything that they need to not merely survive, but to thrive.  Rich histories, strong model identity and they have at one time or another had some very smart people working for them.  But where they have perpetually fallen in the shit is ego, avarice and discontent.  And that has been not just down to the various CEOs, although they have certainly contributed.  No, it is cultural, and at this point?  Both brands need a corporate cultural enema.  Previously it was easy to blame a CEO, or Chinese ownership, etc.  But it bears mentioning that you can change owners, change directors, but the end results tend to be the same.  When Severin Wunderman took over Corum, he created a new spirit, a new identity, a new way to do things.  He was the colonic flush that the brand needed.

And when we get to the million dollar question, who should be next?  There is one guy out there that I KNOW could turn it around.  A fellow who could adjust the sails of that catamaran trapped in the doldrums, and fill the sails with the winds of change, hope and success.

And if the folks at CityChamp wants to know who that guy is?  Give me a call, I won't even charge you a referral fee ; )

Searching for Severin

Contrary to what some of my not-so-collegial colleagues would have you believe, I truly hate seeing people and companies fail.  But the news about Corum withdrawing from BaselWorld has deeper implications than many people want to consider.  While I realize that they are (at least on paper) separate entities, the fates of Corum and Eterna are now intimately intertwined.  And the current state of affairs at Eterna is (to be diplomatic) not great.  And that is simply on the watch front.  

The other, more concerning aspect is the fate of Eterna Movements.  The word around the campfire is that after some "away time", and a few tentative moves forward had been made Eterna and the Eterna Movements might do a "JEANRICHARD".  The "sleeping beauty" strategy is starting to become a somewhat worrying trend.  We often think back wistfully of similar "Prince Charming" happy endings in the 80s, where the plucky young entrepreneur gently kissed the slumbering watch brand, bringing it back to life, while Jim Kerr (Simple Minds) gently crooned in the background.  But I don't think that Jean-Claude Biver is going to be donning a Polo shirt and bomber jacket, regenerate a wedge hair style (complete with perma-gel) and ride in on his moped to save the day any time soon.  Because those (Blancpain and others) were brands that had been beaten, lay down their hands at the table and walked away.  They did not exist any longer.  But Corum and Eterna?  These are brands that have now passed through several sets of hands before landing at City Champ.  And the sense that many of us are getting is that City Champ can wait it out hoping for their own Prince Charming to come in and buy them out of the current quagmire.  

And as I often say when acting as a mediator in my dispute resolution practice - we didn't get here overnight.  This didn't just happen.  This is a series of decisions - some good, some clearly bad, that have led to the situation these brands are now in.  And I turn back again to that (seemingly) crazy guy who took a fairly basic idea, priced it at an appealing level, and brought Corum back to life.  The Bubble that caught everyone's imagination was not a $5,000 watch.  It was much more attainable.  And it sold.  I realize that Corum is much more than the Bubble, but the Bubble is somewhat emblematic about the dysfunction in the decision making paradigm.  The belief that Corum must be priced at very high levels in relation to what the other brands are selling for, has put them in a bit of an unworkable corner.  The result?  Too many SKUs languishing, unsold.  Severin Wunderman was unique in that although he was rich, successful, and in later years lived a lifestyle many would be envious of, he understood what people wanted.  And he also understood pricing.

Two things -

One - I don't claim to have any special "insider" knowledge about the current situation at any of these brands, and I have been wrong before.  But I also can read the tea leaves well enough to know that when news stops flowing, new models cease being released, shows are cancelled... let's just say it raises more questions than it answers.

Two - Running a watch brand is hard, hard work.  Watch enthusiasts all think that they can do it, and do it better than the people doing it.  We are, of course, wrong.  Having said that, the watch industry is also an incredibly forgiving industry which tends to attract people with a certain degree of moral flexibility, where people are promoted, fail, crash, and come back reborn multiple times.  And it is not to say that people don't deserve second (or third, fourth and fifth) chances.  It is to say that when you continue to pursue the same path, strategy, philosophy even though it has failed repeatedly, then perhaps you need to rethink the entire premise of how you do business.

If I were City Champ?  Well, if the stories are to be believed, they have plenty of cash.  They do not need for their Swiss investments to start shitting Tiffany cufflinks right away.  On the other hand, they are not stupid.  The smart play would be to simply not put any more money into either of these brands until they can either straighten themselves out, or find a buyer who is looking for a hobby to dump his/her millions into.  

We all wanted something better for Corum and Eterna, and you never know, there could indeed be a happy ending out there.  So get your hair gel out, and bust out that soundtrack to Sixteen Candles!

Dear Corum - YES, It's Too Soon

Okay, I know that Switzerland is, allegedly, neutral.  I know that being cheeky can be fun and a clever way to pitch an idea.  I mean, I like to poke fun too!

But...

Given the current tensions in the US and UK, I honestly do NOT think that your choice of names for your recent Bubble press release was really that well thought out.

The level of tension currently in the US regarding the political situation and leadership of the country is at an all time high.  People who have been friends for years are no longer talking to each other, and regardless of which side of the rapidly expanding cultural and political divide you find yourself, it is safe to say that you wish that things were different.

While I realize that this was meant to be a clever jab, it really is a bit too far.

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide infoweb

 
I truly do like Corum and I love the Bubble, but I think all things being equal, following the controversy of retaining Booba, the incredibly tacky "Make Corum Great Again" hats intentionally designed to resemble the then candidate (now President) Trump's headgear that were being handed out at BaselWorld, and now this?
 

BUT...

that is just my opinion, and in the interest of avoiding being accused of not reporting fairly, or spreading "fake news", here is the press release exactly as I received it -

Courtesy of Corum

Bubble America First & Bubble Brexit  
In Bubble We Trust

Flag flying high, America's greatness takes centre stage. Corum introduces a proud and independent Bubble. On Stars & Stripes, the colours of the New World are on majestic display for Independence Day. In God We Trust, In Bubble We Trust. 

This "4th of July", Corum is giving prominence to those colours associated with the land of Uncle Sam. True to the grandeur and power of the country, the La Chaux-de-Fonds watch brand has chosen to immortalise not one, but two nations on its dial.
This is how the United Kingdom’s tricolour flag also came to be represented on the dial, suitably enlarged thanks to the legendary magnifying effect of the Bubble’s sapphire crystal.
In keeping with the bubble style unique to Corum, the Swiss watchmaker proudly exhibits the colours of both nations, united in their exceptional power.

Corum's New Bubble

Which if it does nothing else, reminds us that whether or not art is good is completely subjective ; )

Courtesy of Corum

This is the latest entry into the Corum Bubble collection, a collaboration with the watch maker and Canadian actress, model and artist Elisabetta Fantone.  For more info on the artist - http://www.elisabettafantone.com/

While I can safely say that this is not my jam, I applaud Corum for continuing to push boundaries, particularly as they pertain to the Bubble.  The Bubble is perhaps the strongest tie that Corum still has to Severin Wundermann.  And Mr. Wunderman will always be remembered fondly for his love of life, art, and whimsy.  And this is a very whimsical interpretation of the Mona Lisa.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT 

CO 082
Self winding
Hours, minutes, seconds
42 hours power reserve

CASE
47 mm
Stainless steel
Domed sapphire crystal
Display back
Water resistant to 100 meters  

Happy Halloween!

Corum has brought out three new Bubbles and as we take Halloween particularly seriously here in Salem, Massachusetts we'll be sharing them one a day. 

The watch world sorely misses Severin Wunderman, but when I see the Bubble and see that it continues to flourish, well I know that two of "Severin's children" - Mr. Hess and Mr. Ekangaki will smile and revel in a fond memory or three.  It is very few watch world entrepreneurs who have so positively touched as many of the people who worked for them as Mr. Wunderman did.  He was special, and the Bubble continues to be so.


So for Friday, October 28th here is the first of three new Bubbles -

The Pirate -

Courtesy of Corum

Here are the pertinents -

Movement

CO 082 - 

Automatic

Functions:  Hour, minute, second, date

Power reserve:  42 h

Frequency:  4 Hz, 28’800 vph

Jewels:  21

Dimension:  11 ½’’’

 

Case

Thickness:  18.50 mm

Water resistant:  100 meters / 10 ATM

Dial

Material:  Brass

Finish:  Black, Leaf-type, openworked, black varnish

 

Bracelet

Color:  Red

Material:  Rubber

Interhorn:  24/20 mm

 

 

The Bubble in Mother of Pearl

From Corum 

It would seem that Severin Wunderman continues to influence Corum, even from the great beyond ; )


This is one of the two latest offerings in the Bubble collection, described as "mother of pearl" and measures 42 mm in diameter.  One would assume targeted for a ladies audience it is available in pink, blue and white.


Available with diamond set bezel or without.

Courtesy of Corum

For the pink, here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
CO 295 – Automatic
72 hours power-reserve Functions: Hour, minute, small second
Frequency: 3 Hz, 21,600 vph Dimension: 11 1⁄2 ’’’ 

CASE
Dimension: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 16.50 mm
Material: Stainless steel or stainless steel with crown and bezel in
5N 18kt rose gold set with 50 VS /
F to G / full-cut diamonds (1.47 ct) Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal Sapphire case back Water-resistance: 100 meters /
10 ATM 

DIAL
Material: Brass, mother-of-pearl Colour: Pink
Indexes: Rhodium-plated or 5N gold- toned, pink superluminova
Hands: Rhodium-plated or
5N gold-toned, pink superluminova
STRAP / BRACELET
Alligator leather with rubber lining Pin buckle in stainless steel 

Courtesy of Corum

For the white versions -

MOVEMENT
CO 295 – Automatic
72 hours power-reserve Functions: Hour, minute, small second
Frequency: 3 Hz, 21,600 vph Dimension: 111⁄2’’’ 

CASE
Dimension: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 16.50 mm
Material: Stainless steel or stainless steel with crown and bezel in
5N 18kt rose gold set with 50 VS /
F to G/full-cut diamonds (1.47 ct) Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal Sapphire case back Water-resistance: 100 meters /
10 ATM 

DIAL
Material: Brass, mother-of-pearl Colour: White
Indexes: Rhodium-plated or
5N gold-toned, white superluminova Hands: Rhodium-plated or
5N gold-toned, white superluminova
STRAP / BRACELET
Alligator leather with rubber lining Pin buckle in stainless steel 

Courtesy of Corum

Courtesy of Corum

And the blue -

MOVEMENT
CO 295 – Automatic
72 hours power-reserve Functions: Hour, minute, small second
Frequency: 3 Hz, 21,600 vph Dimension: 11 1⁄2 ’’’

CASE
Dimension: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 16.50 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Bezel set with 50 VS / F to G /
full-cut diamonds (1.47 ct)
Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal Sapphire case back Water-resistance: 100 meters /

10 ATM

DIAL
Material: Brass, mother-of-pearl Colour: Blue
Indexes: Rhodium-plated, blue superluminova
Hands: Rhodium-plated, blue superluminova
STRAP / BRACELET

Alligator leather with rubber lining Pin buckle in stainless steel 

Remembering Severin Wunderman

The "foundation" story of Gucci Watches is one of legend.  I had the very great pleasure of spending a few days with two self-proclaimed "Children of Severin" back in November.  By that, they meant that they cut their teeth, made their bones with Gucci Watches back in the day.  Needless to say, there is a bigger story there.  But we'll save that for another time.  

Borrowed Shamelessly from the INFOWEB

The original meeting of Severin Wunderman and Aldo Gucci is one shared around the campfire quite a bit by industry folks.  Attempting to arrange a license agreement for his employer to manufacture Gucci watches as a private label endeavor, he dropped in on the hotel where he heard that the Guccis were staying, and using the house phone called up to their suite.  Now some of the following details are fuzzy, but legend holds that Aldo was expecting a call from a young woman when he answered the phone with something resembling "who the hell are you?"  Mr. Wunderman, not one to "wear the prom dress" replied in kind and was invited to come up to the suite and "talk about it".  And with both men ready to slug each other as he knocked, Mr. Gucci opened the door, they both paused and broke down in laughter.

With the ice broken, they got down to business and it was agreed that the company Mr. Wunderman worked for could have the license to make the watches.  One small problem, they could not handle such a large order.  So seeing opportunity, Mr. Wunderman proposed leaving his company, handle the manufacture of the watches himself, and the rest would take care of itself.  Well, actually two small problems - Mr. Wunderman didn't have the money to do this.  And in a moment that all of the rest of us in the sales side of the watch business wish and hope could happen for us, Aldo Gucci pre-paid an order of approximately a quarter million dollars.

Gucci Watches today is, obviously, a different company.  And that is to be expected.  But what drove Gucci, and later Corum was not just a fancy name.  It was not just a flashy booth.  It was people, imagination, a willingness to think beyond the obvious.

So we watch, and we wait, and we hope that the next Severin Wunderman will reveal himself.

Bubblelicious

And while it is "DOPE" (1. adj. cool, nice, awesome) to be sure, it is legal in all 50 states ; )

While everyone else might be worked up about Art Basel, leave it to Corum to grab my attention with their new Bubble releases!

Courtesy of Corum

There are a few to cover, but let's prolong the magic ; )

On the Bubble

Is back!

Courtesy of Corum

And yes, for all of  you blowing raspberries and saying - "you already covered this!"... well let's just say that some things are worth doing twice ; )

Admiral's Cup AC-ONE 45 Tides

From Corum.  Severin would have loved this one!

Courtesy of Corum

Here are the details -

Corum Admiral's Cup AC-ONE 45 Tides 

45 mm of grade 5 titanium.  The movement is referenced as the CO 277, self-winding (automatic) with hours, minutes, seconds and date.  And because it is the 45 Tides it also provides the timing of the next two high and low tides and has a current tide strength and "tidal process indicator".  I am not a mariner of any description, but it sounds impressive and useful.  42 hours of power reserve, and a matching red vulcanized rubber strap.  I am not 100% sure, but my hunch is that the red material overlay between the case and the bezel that covers the outsides (top and bottom) of the crown material might be ceramic?  It is indicated as titanium, so perhaps it has received some sort of pvd treatment?

A Trio of New Bubbles

From Corum -

Courtesy of Corum

As I reported earlier, Corum has brought back my personal favorite - the Bubble!

Courtesy of Corum

First introduced in 2000, the Bubble is BACK!  And not a moment too soon.

Courtesy of Corum

So let me turn it over to Corum for their own words on the matter -

Corum Heritage Bubble
In the year 2000 Corum introduced the Bubble, an oversized watch with an even larger crystal. It was so radical it became the must-have timepiece of the new millennium. Now, exactly 15 years later, the Bubble makes a triumphal return, sealing its place as a pillar of Corum’s watchmaking heritage.

At the turn of the century watchmaking was a universe away from what it is today. Big watches were scarce, unconventionally shaped watches almost unheard of. The tectonic shift began as the 21st century dawned, with Corum riding on the top of the wave that would soon sweep watchmaking.

At Baselworld 2000 the Bubble was unveiled, an unparalleled 44 mm in diameter with a towering sapphire crystal so tall it distorted the dial. With a size and shape totally unprecedented in watchmaking, the Bubble was an instant hit.

The Bubble was the brainchild of the late Severin Wunderman, a relentlessly creative entrepreneur who acquired Corum that very same year. Wunderman, who survived both the Holocaust and cancer, had a roving, creative mind. In one instance, he was inspired by an experimental deep-sea dive watch from the 1960s, which was fitted with an enormous domed crystal to withstand the pressure of the ocean. That formed the genesis of the Bubble, one of the most recognizable wristwatches of its time.

While the Bubble was unquestionably unique, its unorthodox design was merely an extension of Corum’s long-established philosophy. Since its founding in 1955, Corum consistently excelled at designing totally original timepieces, ranging from the Rolls-Royce, shaped like the luxury automobile’s front grille, to the Golden Bridge, distinguished by its remarkably tiny, baguette-shaped movement.

Despite being a mere 15 years old, the Bubble is major part of the brand’s heritage, deserving of elevation into a hall of fame. The Bubble has now been revived as part of the Corum Heritage collection, putting it alongside other landmark timepieces like the extra-thin Coin Watch.
While retaining all the design codes of the original, the 2015 Bubble is not a mere replica of its predecessor. Fitted with a rubber-ringed, spherical crown, the case is a collection of smooth, rounded lines, just like the original.

But it has been enlarged to 47 mm, lending it impressively striking proportions, especially as it stands some 18.8 mm high, crystal included. But, as always, practicality was high on the mind of the development team, which paired the oversized case with short, curved lugs, allowing it to hug the wrist snugly.

A remarkable 8 mm high, this sapphire crystal is one of the largest of any watch. Sapphire is a material so extraordinarily hard it has to be cut with a diamond-tipped tool. This in itself is challenging enough that even when machining ordinary, flat watch crystals the job can take hours. Crafting the mountainous crystal of the Bubble requires exponentially more work. The 

task starts with cutting a block of crystal, then grinding it into a bubble-like shape, and finally polishing the crystal to flawless clarity with absolutely no optical imperfections.
Because the sapphire crystal is so tall, it acts as a lens, both magnifying and distorting the dial. Corum’s designers took advantage of this by designing a dial with a clever, op art (short for “optical art”) motif. Taking inspiration from Hungarian-born French artist Victor Vasarely, founder of the op art movement, the dial is decorated with squares in graduated sizes that grow larger toward the center of the dial.

Op art desired to create static patterns that gave the impression of movement or surprising, contradictory perspectives. Likewise, the dial of the Bubble is perfectly flat, formed from a lacquered, brass disc stamped with the cube motif, but appears sharply domed. In fact, it looks so rounded it might pass for the top of a sphere.

This arresting op art dial will be fitted only to a pair of limited edition, PVD-coated versions of the Bubble, each made in an exclusive run of just 350 pieces. The first is the Bubble Vintage, housed in a bronze-tone, PVD-coated case paired with Super-LumiNova treated for a vintage effect. A modern watch made to look like an antique from an indistinct era, the Bubble Vintage is a nod to the original Bubble now 15 years old.

Taking another perspective is the Bubble All Black, clad entirely in a glossy black PVD coating, matched by a matte black dial, along with charcoal-colored indices and hands. The Bubble All Black removes all distraction, making a monochromatic statement that emphasizes the iconic shape of the Bubble.

Part of the regular collection of timepieces, the third model in the Bubble collection does away with the dial entirely. A skeletonized movement takes its place, with the domed sapphire crystal providing a magnified view of the exposed wheels of the CO0082 self- winding movement.
All of the Bubble timepieces are fitted with rubber straps topped with leather: calfskin for the op art editions and alligator skin in the case of the skeleton. And each is fitted with a buckle matching the case finish.