Love Overdue - the Expedition Chronograph

From Siduna -

Courtesy of Siduna

I am a Siduna fan. And I'll go further, I am a big fan of one of the partners at Siduna, Francis Jacquerye.  Yes, watches are made by brands. But more importantly, brands are made up of people. And having spent some time with Mr. Jacquerye, I can honestly say that I take a great deal of pleasure when I wear my Siduna Standard Issue Compax Chronograph.

But today I am excited to share with you the newest offering from Siduna, and one that I suspect you will really want for yourself.

Courtesy of Siduna

The Expedition Chronograph is a bi-compax chronograph with a bit of what Thierry Henry in Ted Lasso referred to as va-va-voom!

The case is stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter.  The movement is listed as Valjoux's 7753 top grade. 

You want this.

It is currently available for pre-order at a friendly price of (approximately) $1,485.  The first deliveries are anticipated for early December (if I have read that part correctly).

Here are the pertinents -

Reference

490 CPN

Description

Self-winding chronograph with hours, minutes and running seconds. Compax chronograph feature with minutes and seconds.

Dial with machine turned pattern, dark blue. Printed Arabic numerals and telemeter scale.

Water resistant case in austenitic stainless steel, screw-down crown, 5 bar (50m/165ft static). Flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

• Diameter 42.0mm
• Thickness 13.5mm
• Lug width 20.0mm
• Lug end to lug end 50.7mm
• Buckle width 18.0mm
• ISO 764 magnetic resistance 4,800 A/m
• ISO 1413 shock resistance
• ISO 22810 water-resistance 5 bar (static 50m/165ft)

Movement

• ETA/Valjoux 7753 Top grade
• Adjusted in 5 positions: CH, FH, 6H, 9H, 3H
• Incabloc shock protection
• Glucydur balance wheel with Anchron alloy hairspring
• Nivaflex NM mainspring
• Nivarox pallet lever and escape wheel
• Diametre 13 ″ ¼‴ (30.0mm), thickness 7.9mm
• Power reserve 48h
• Rubies setting 27

The München Erbstück

From Laco -

Courtesy of Laco

This is a very limited release - only 30 pieces.

Courtesy of Laco

The case is of stainless steel and measures 42.3 mm in diameter.  The movement is the Valjoux 7750.  The asking price is 2,990€

Here are the pertinents, straight from Laco -

Case:

Stainless steel, elaborately hand-finished in an antique look, ø 42,3 mm, height 14,7 mm,
lug width 20 mm, water resistant up to 5 ATM, double curved sapphire crystal with
antireflecting coating, stainless steel case-back, sidewise marking "FL 23883", case back with B-Uhr marking, crown execution according original B-Uhr, engraved limited serial number on the case back, every watch case is absolutely unique

Movement:

Automatic movement Laco 50 with chronograph, basic movement: ETA Valjoux 7750,
day / date, second, minute and hour counter

Hands:

Hour, minute and centre second with luminous material Superluminova C3, small hands grey, all hands elaborately aged individually

Dial:

Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova C3, totalizers and day / date grey,
matching to the case in an antique look, individually aged in elaborate handwork

Strap:

Brown, closed calf leather strap,
2 rivets per band side, antique look, stainless steel buckle, 20 mm lug width

Weight:

110 g

The 1800 S GG DAMASZENER

From Sinn -

Courtesy of Sinn

This is the latest from Sinn. As you will note, the dial is of Damascus steel. The case measures 43 mm in diameter, with a lug width of 22 mm.

Courtesy of Sinn

The movement is the SW300-1.

This is a limited release, 100 pieces only, so no dawdling ; )

Courtesy of Sinn

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source 

Movement
Mechanical Movement
SW300-1
Self-winding mechanism
25 bearing jewels
28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
Seconds stop function
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Date display

Case
Case with integrated dial made from Damascus steel, featuring Black Hard Coating on a TEGIMENT Technology basis
Case back made from Damascus steel, with Black Hard Coating on a TEGIMENTTechnology basis
Sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on both sides
Case back screw-fastened
Crown screwable
Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
Pressure-resistant up to 10 bar
Low pressure resistant

SINN Technologies
Black Hard Coating on a TEGIMENT 

Technology basis
Dimensions and Weight

Case diameter: 43 mm
Band lug width: 22 mm
Case thickness: 10.4 mm
Weight without strap: 78 gramme
Dial and Hands

Case with integrated dial made of Damascus steel
18-carat gold appliqués, meticulously attached by hand
Appliqués coated with luminescent colour
Hands in 18-carat gold
Hour and minute hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
Warranty period 2 years

The Pilot's Watch Chronograph Edition “Le Petit Prince”

From IWC -

Courtesy of IWC

While I realize every other media outlet out there is currently losing their collective minds over the Top Gun releases from IWC, I thought I might go another direction and let everyone else head down the "highway to the danger zone".

Courtesy of IWC

Rather than Maverick (and let's be honest, does anyone want to see modern-day Tom Cruise and Val Kilmer oiled-up for a beach volleyball game?), I thought it might be more inspiring to revisit another pilot and the watch that bears his name.

In the interest of full disclosure, I am really not an IWC fan. That being said, this one speaks to me, and I hope it speaks to you as well.

Courtesy of IWC

If you area of a similar disposition, here are the pertinents -

Case:

Stainless steel case
Diameter 43.0 mm
Height 15.4 mm
Screw in crown
Water resistance 6 bar

Movement:

79320 Calibre
Automatic, self-winding
44 hours Power Reserve
Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 hz)
240 Components
25 Jewels
Côtes de Genève, perlage

FEATURES
Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields
Day and date display
Glass secured against displacement by drop in air pressure
Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Small hacking seconds

The Rallye 42 mm Chronograph Auto - IN GREEN!

From Lip -

Courtesy of Lip

Following up on the first version released a year ago, this is the latest iteration of the Rallye Chronograph.  

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:

Watch reference

671822

Case - shiny silver 316 L steel, diameter 42 mm, thickness (including glass) 13.13 mm, screwed steel back, chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock

Dial - medium green, silver stick indexes, black tachymeter graduations, date at 6 o'clock, counters at 3 and 9 o'clock, luminous silver hour and minute hands, silver and red second hand

Glass - sapphire

Strap - perforated camel calfskin, width 20 mm

Buckle -chrome folding clasp

Movement - automatic mechanical analog SEIKO NE86

Water resistant to 50 meters

2 year warranty

Made in France - Besançon

What I've Learned - The Winter Is Coming Edition

It has been an interesting several months as the end of COVID19 has proven to be a false start, and now all of the sharps and confidence men (and women) have been forced to try and find an honest way to make a buck. And as always, for those of us who stopped, looked and listened? Well let's just say that there were some opportunities for self-examination and personal growth. But in the end it seems clear that the Emperor still is butt-naked and nobody is ready or willing to alert him to this reality.

So here's what I've learned -

1.  You can change your name as many times as you like, but you'll always be Biff Lowman. 

The BaselWorld/Hour Universe  team continue to have no compunction about putting their hands in the wallets of the brands that they still owe money to from their last shake down. This lack of shame is, well, pretty shameful. Speaking of shame, it is a shame that profiteers like this continue to operate without any sort of oversight to keep them honest. And the biggest shame? They'll keep right on doing it. To quote that other great commentator on the watch business, Bunk Moreland as played by Wendell Pierce on The Wire - 

"That's some shameful shit".

2.  As a journalist you will never be more popular with brands as you are when the brands are not popular with every other media outlet (particularly the ones they paid a LOT of money to for what is politely referred to as "exclusive partnerships").

Pay to Play is a sad reality, and with so many other "part-time lovers" out there, it's hard for a brand to keep enough money on hand to pay that exclusive media partner as often as they want to be paid for coverage.  And suddenly, that "exclusive" partnership is worthless. And all of the media outlets that got snubbed by the brand the last few times around are now using that brand's press release as toilet paper in their virtual bathrooms.

As another commentator on the watch business, Billie Holiday, once mused -

"A stiff dick has no conscience".  Long story short Mr and Ms Brand Owner, until you put more gas in the tank, that particular marketing vehicle is not moving.

3.  When a brand or sales manager calls you "My friend"  it still means "you f'ng asshole." 

The Series 8 - And Why I Want It

From Citizen -

Courtesy of Citizen

This is actually 1 of a series of 4 new watches from Citizen, but for me this one is "Best In Show".

Courtesy of Citizen

This specific model is the NB6010-81E.  I realize that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, but it is a name worth remembering. And for me this one not only speaks to me, but actually shouts to me. Regular readers will note that I spent several years in Japan following university. And for me, it is really where my "grown-up" life started. I have searched high and low for a full-on (case and movement) Japanese watch that would not only visually take me back, but also viscerally hit that memory button for me, and this one finally seems to have done what Seiko and G-Shock have nearly, but not quite yet succeeded in doing.

Shamelessly Borrowed from the World-Wide Infoweb

This is a watch I could see a brooding, super cool Ken Takakura wearing as he walked the streets in the evening. Not in a hurry, but always with a purpose.

Courtesy of Citizen

This is a watch with balance. Something sporty and dead cool in a world of jumped-up dive watches. You want this watch.  I know I certainly do. It is at once nostalgic and modern, without putting on airs of being something that it isn't.

It is priced at a reasonable $1,000 US.

And needless to say, I am preparing for an awkward conversation with my piggy bank ; )

If it is in your wheelhouse, and it certainly is in mine, here are the pertinents -

MODEL
NB6010-81E

MOVEMENT:
9051 - Automatic: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
42 hours of power reserve, Antimagnetic 16000

CASE:
40 mm stainless steel, water resistant to 333 feet

CRYSTAL:
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Impact and shatter resistant, antireflective coating 

The "Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date"

From Perrelet -

Courtesy of Perrelet

Available in three different dials blue (above), black (below)... 

Courtesy of Perrelet

And silver.

Courtesy of Perrelet

Here are the pertinents, straight from the 

source -

Movement:

Manufacture Perrelet P-421 caliber, mechanical automatic movement Fitting diameter: 31.60 mm
Total diameter: 34.80 mm
Thickness, including oscillating weight: 6.32 mm

Vibrations per hour: 28.800 (4Hz)
Jewels: 30
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance-wheel shock protection system: Incabloc
Circular-grained and rhodium plated main plate
Bridges: rhodium plated, adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif
Oscillating weight: rhodium plated, circular-brushed, engraved grooves pattern

Functions:

Central hours, minutes and seconds hands
Big date window at 12 o’clock
Second time zone with day-night indicator at 6 o’clock

Case:

Cushion-shaped, polished-brushed stainless steel, octagonal bezel Size: 42mm x 42mm
Thickness: 13.51 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass on both sides

Case-back with sapphire crystal glass, secured by 6 screws Water resistance: 5 ATM

Dial:

Three color variations: silver, deep blue and black
Central part with vertical decoration and circular-brushed rim, surrounded by a matt sandblasted ring
Cut-out hour-markers filled with SuperLuminova
Luminescent hours and minutes hands
Central seconds hand
Silver, black or blue flange for seconds indication on a scale of 5
Oscillating weight visible on dial side, engraved grooves decoration
Date window at 12 o’clock (two white disks with black Arabic numerals on silver and blue dials – two black discs with white Arabic numerals on black dial)
Circular grooves decoration on the second time zone counter at 6 o’clock, round aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock for day/night indication

Strap:

Black calf leather strap with white stitching on silver and black dial executions Blue calf leather strap with white stitching on blue dial version
Stainless steel folding clasp embellished with the Perrelet logo

Retail Price: CHF 4.980,00

The Divido Blood Orange Limited Edition

From Minase and 10tenLabs -

Courtesy of Minase

This drop is limited to 10 pieces only, so if this is in your wheelhouse, you'd better lively-up yourself!

Courtesy of Minase

Here are all the pertinents, straight from the source:

Divido is Minase’s flagship model. After the success of the first limited edition the "Arabica Coffea" back in April 2021, 10tenLabs® decided to create its second limited edition based upon the same collection.

The Divido Blood Orange Edition is a unique timepiece created with a great attention to details and featuring a unique dial color. The dial is a thin plate of hammered copper finished with a distinctive hand- painted Japanese lacquerware technique. It was decided to add a unique touch of Japanese artistry through showcasing Minase’s “Kanji” above 6 O’clock. For this edition, 10tenLabs® decided to choose a bright color, a color that fits perfectly with the autumnal season. With the Divido Blood Orange Limited Edition, Minase and 10tenLabs® sought to bring together typical elements of both cultures; the emblematic fruit of the Mediterranean region and the impressive work of Japanese craftsmanship.

The watch is powered by Minase regular Swiss automatic movement in high-end execution with hand- finished surfaces and perlage. Plated in black "or", Minase new customized rotor is elegantly decorated with tiny versions of the Minase logo.

This 10 pieces edition was rapidly sold out upon its launch to leading watch aficionados within the 10tenLabs® collectors community.

The Himalaya 40 mm Marcel Livet

 From Lip & Marcel Livet -

Courtesy of Lip & Marcel Livet

This is the latest Lip mash-up, and it's well worth checking out!

Courtesy of Lip

Ever wonder why the Lip Himalaya is called the Himalaya?  Well, strap on your crampons and let's go climbing back in time to 1951.  This marked the third French expedition to the Himalayas, and Marcel Livet (the namesake of the particularly drip handmade French skis) was one of the organizers for the French Alpine Club.
Lip provided the watches for the team.

While ill-fated (not all who set out returned and were forever lost to the mountains), it was also marked a pivotal time in mountain exploration.

To commemorate the expedition, Lip and Marcel Livet have teamed up to offer this limited edition.

Courtesy of Lip

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter.  the movement is Miyota's 9132 automatic/self-winding with date at 3 o'clock, and a small sub-second dial.

This is a limited edition and priced at €549.00

Wake Up! (It's 1984)

(Wake up), it's 1984
(Wake up), but we've been here before
(Wake up), it's 1984
(Wake up), but we've been here before

Oingo Boingo - Wake-Up! (It's 1984)

Courtesy of Swatch

This is part of a four piece release from Swatch that pays homage to what kicked everything off back before most of you reading this were born. Or to quote that other noted commentator on the watch business, Marge Simpson - 

"This story begins in the unforgettable spring of 1983. Ms. Pac-Man struck a blow for women's rights and a young Joe Piscopo taught us how to laugh"

At any rate, this is the ROUGE & NOIR from Swatch and their 1984 Reloaded drop. It taps into those halcyon days of yesteryear when there was a Soviet Union, and Frankie told us to relax.

The case is BIOCERAMIC, and the strap is made of what Swatch refers to as BIO SOURCED, I am still not 100% sure what that means, but at any rate, that's the info.

It is priced a bit more than the standard 41 mms at $90.00 US. 

The HydriumX "Will Return"

From Isotope Watches -

Courtesy of Isotope Watches

I love a bit of whimsy, and the "Will Return" from Isotope Watches has whimsey by the boat load!

The design inspiration is miles away from the usual "homage" diver and actually interesting and original (something we really don't see as often as we should). 

Courtesy of Isotope Watches

The dial, hands and bezel all pay tribute to an unlikely inspiration - the "Will Return At..." sign that several stores use to indicate what time they will return to re-open.  In this case, 10:10 ; )

Leave it to a designer to come up with something this fun!

Courtesy of Isotope

This is currently a pre-order item, available direct from Isotope Watches.

Should you be as intrigued as I am, here are the pertinents -

Technical Specifications

• Micro-blasted case, 316L stainless steel
• Case diameter 40mm X 48mm (with lugs)
• Height 11.3mm (14.8mm with domed Sapphire Crystal)
• Exhibition screw-down case back
• Uni-directional bezel with 120 clicks 
  
• Anti-reflective crystal sapphire
• Screw-down crown at 3 o’clock
• White glossy dial filled with Swiss  Super-LumiNova®
• Isotope Lacrima hands with Swiss Super-LumiNova®
• Water-resistance 300m / 30 atm / 1000 ft
• 22mm Quick-release Cordura and FKM straps with signed micro-blasted Steel Buckle

Mechanical Movement

• Automatic, self-winding Japanese Miyota 9039
• Power reserve 42 hours
• Accuracy -10/+30 s/day

The Chronofighter Vintage Bronze

 From Graham -

Courtesy of Graham

This one must have snuck past me when it was released, but I stumbled across it recently and thought I might re-heat it.

The case is of bronze, and measures 44 mm in diameter.  Underneath the hood is the Calibre G1747, automatic chronograph, which operates via Graham's now signature "Trigger" chronograph pusher.

Courtesy of Graham

Like several of Graham's current collection, this one can also be purchased directly from Graham through the shop on their official site -

https://graham1695.com/collections/all

SNGLRTY - This Is Not A Watch Review

I recently had the opportunity to wear the SNGLRTY  Desert Sunset for a few days -

So as the title informs you, this is not a watch review, but you will get my feedback on the SNGLRTY Desert Sunset.

For those of you just tuning in, SNGLRTY launched through a crowd funding effort a few years back. The brand currently offers 2 models one with a date function which uses the Ohi-4 module configuration, and one without which uses the Ohi-2 module configuration. The Desert Sunset does not have a date and uses the Ohi-2:

Module & Movement

MODULE	OHI2 time adjustment
BASE MOVEMENT	SELLITA SW200-1 Standard Execution
OHI MOVEMENT SIZE	25.6mm Diameter, 4.6mm Height
FREQUENCY	28’800 A/h (4Hz)
POWER RESERVE	38 Hours
NUMBER OF JEWELS	26

The case is of stainless steel and measures 40.5 mm in diameter and is 12.2 mm thick -

For me this offered a good size and fit -

In terms of design, I have to say that overall I like it. In terms of the "outside" of the watch, my only disagreement is that the case lugs utilize hex key screws to secure the strap -

I know and appreciate that there are folks out there who love feeling like they are "handy" using tools to remove and attach their own straps. And I accept that this is a personal choice from my side - I simply can't be bothered. To this end whenever I get straps made by Lic I always request quick spring bars. (Publisher's note - James Henderson has worked with Lic straps in the past to help promote them in the US. While he does not currently distribute Lic straps, Tempus Fugit believes it is important to fully disclose this previous relationship).

As far as the strap and buckle goes, they are absolutely first class!  Very comfortable and well made.

Needless to say, the movement has a staring role with this watch. I like single-handed watches and am the proud owner of a MeisterSinger. That being said, the actual mechanics behind the SNGLRTY and its patented module have taken the ideas governing single handed watches to a whole new level. The SNGLRTY watches offer the wearer a much more accurate read on time as the minutes are displayed within the ring at the tip of the hour hand as the minute ring circles counter clockwise as the hour hand circles clockwise. 

You won't be reading about all of the technicalities here - remember, this is Tempus Fugit ; ).  Suffice it to say, I think it offers something truly different than what has come before it. And add into the bargain that you have the opportunity to customize a SNGLRTY to your own design (within the constraints of the SNGLRTY customizer anyway).

For me, this is about more than a watch. It is a very interesting story about two guys who probably could have picked better ways to obsess, fret, get frustrated, and ultimately succeed than making a brand new concept for a micro brand. But that's what makes the story great. 

The OBIE3, 2, 1 - The Countdown is Almost Over!

At the Oberlin Watch Company!

Courtesy of Oberlin Watch Company

So a shameless bit of self-promotion ; ). Yes, gentle reader, I am the owner of the Oberlin Watch Company.  What started out almost a year ago as a project to make a nice, simple, affordable watch for about 10 people has grown into a fledgling brand.

We began with one model. 85 customers, 1 retail partner,  and 100 watches later we will be selling and shipping 3 models within the next 10 days!

The price is still $97.97 USD with flat rate shipping of $20 in the US, and $30 everywhere else.

Should you be so inlined, here are the basic details:

The case is stainless steel and measures 40 mm in diameter.  It is rated to be water-resistant to 10 ATM.  The crystal is K1 (sometimes referred to as sapphlex). The movement is the Citizen 2035, which is quartz with a battery life of 2.5 - 3 years (this can, of course, vary).

The UR-110 Bakelite

As this one benefits charity, I'm going to let the folks at Urwerk tell it in their own words -

Courtesy of Urwerk

"While we are not the nostalgic kind here at URWERK, we are proud to be celebrating the 10th anniversary of our 110 collection. This is a creation that won the Best Design prize in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève; that faced evil on the wrist of IronMan, the most badass Superhero of them all; and that made the cover of major watchmaking magazines at the time of its launch in 2011. It needed to complete one last mission before it slipped away, so we are going to issue a final UR-110 in bakelite. A one-of-a-kind model that will be auctioned off on our dedicated website, with most of the proceeds going to the Swiss Red Cross", said the two URWERK founders, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei.

The UR-110 will therefore be retiring exactly 10 years after its birth – and doing so in style, on behalf of a worthy cause. This one-off UR-110 Bakelite will be unveiled on 10/10 at 10:10 a.m. Geneva time on the https://urwerkpreowned.com/website.

The UR-110 Bakelite features a titanium case and an original bezel made of bakelite, a star material from the 1900s. As Felix Baumgartner explains: "Bakelite was one of the first high-tech materials ever developed. Its properties were and remain multiple and revolutionary. Insulating and heat-resistant, it was present in all everyday objects at the time, from eyeglass frames to radios”, Felix Baumgartner.

A couple of dates: The UR-110 Bakelite will be revealed on 10.10.2021 at 10:00 amGeneva time. The auction will start on October 15th and will close on 17.10.2021 at 10:00 am Geneva time.

So if you have the means, you can do something positive and get a great watch in the bargain!

Here are the pertinents -

Technical specifications UR-110 Bakélite. One-of-a-kind model

Movement

Calibre:                 UR 9.01 mechanical, automatic winding

Balance:               Monometallic

Jewels:                 46 

Frequency:           28,800v/h, 4Hz

Balance spring:     Flat

Power:                  Single barrel 

Power reserve:     39 hours

Winding system:  Uni-directional rotor regulated by double turbines 

Finish:                  Matting, circular graining and diamond-cuts 

Indications

Satellite complication with rotating hour/minute modules mounted on planetary gears

Control Board: “Day/Night” indicator; “Oil Change” alert for service intervals and small seconds

 

Case

Case in Grade 5 titanium with bezel in Bakélite

Dimensions : 47mm X 51mm X 16mm 

Two-position crown with integrated protection. 

Water resistance:  tested to 3 ATM