New Yusai Dials From Minase

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase

In their own words:

Divido - Falling Stars & Mirage

The dial is crafted from mother-of-pearl, enhanced by an intricate layering of pigments. The surface thus shifts depending on the light, at times suggesting the soft radiance of a nebula, those clouds of gas and dust in outer space, visible in the night sky, and at others, the serenity of a snowy landscape reflecting sunlights. In harmony with Divido’s faceted case, the dial has been conceived as a living canvas of light. This refined chromatic composition offers more than aesthetic pleasure: it invites contemplation.

Courtesy of Minase

5 Windows - Pluralist Garden

The dial is crafted with delicate layers of blue-green pigments and was inspired by the harmony of Japanese gardens. Yellow and blue tones mix perfectly with the green and remind the gentle waves of a pond. In Japan, windows are not only a practical way to bring light inside a room, they often offer a view on something beautiful outside like a garden, a mountain or a tree. This collection opens a poetic aperture between the inner and outer world, where craftsmanship and nature flows as one.

Courtesy of Minase

7 Windows - Otherwise than Being

The dial is painted with multiple layers of blue pigments, creating a sense of depth. The artist’s variation of the blue color was designed to evoke a feeling of suspension and weightlessness. The Seven Windows was the perfect model for this design with its ingenious case-in-case structure and three-dimensional indexes. Indeed, the dial seems to hover in space within the case.

About the artist -

Courtesy of Minase

Towa Takaya is a Japanese artist whose work bridges nature and material. She creates her own pigments from soil, plants, and other natural ingredients gathered during her travels. Her paintings pay tribute to nature, exploring delicate color spectrums and subtle gradations. Ms. Takaya explains: “The pieces I have created for Minase were inspired by Japan's unique craftsmanship culture and beautiful nature. I spent several months researching methods of expression to represent different aspects of nature.”

The Divido Blood Orange Limited Edition

From Minase and 10tenLabs -

Courtesy of Minase

This drop is limited to 10 pieces only, so if this is in your wheelhouse, you'd better lively-up yourself!

Courtesy of Minase

Here are all the pertinents, straight from the source:

Divido is Minase’s flagship model. After the success of the first limited edition the "Arabica Coffea" back in April 2021, 10tenLabs® decided to create its second limited edition based upon the same collection.

The Divido Blood Orange Edition is a unique timepiece created with a great attention to details and featuring a unique dial color. The dial is a thin plate of hammered copper finished with a distinctive hand- painted Japanese lacquerware technique. It was decided to add a unique touch of Japanese artistry through showcasing Minase’s “Kanji” above 6 O’clock. For this edition, 10tenLabs® decided to choose a bright color, a color that fits perfectly with the autumnal season. With the Divido Blood Orange Limited Edition, Minase and 10tenLabs® sought to bring together typical elements of both cultures; the emblematic fruit of the Mediterranean region and the impressive work of Japanese craftsmanship.

The watch is powered by Minase regular Swiss automatic movement in high-end execution with hand- finished surfaces and perlage. Plated in black "or", Minase new customized rotor is elegantly decorated with tiny versions of the Minase logo.

This 10 pieces edition was rapidly sold out upon its launch to leading watch aficionados within the 10tenLabs® collectors community.

The Divido 2.0

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase

Yes, it might look familiar, but it is even better than before!

The new 2.0 has received a notable upgrade under the hood -

Courtesy of Minase

Per Minase -

A New Movement

Minase’s new KT7002 is a Swiss made movement based on ETA 2892/A2 ebauches. This high- end execution displays hand-finished surfaces with perlage, blue screws, bridges with diamond polished bevels and a main plate and bridges in black “or”. With 50 hours’ power reserve, Minase’s KT7002 movement offers some 12 more hours of autonomy than the previous movement.

Here are the pertinents -

CHF 5,400.00

Prices are exclusive of VAT, which will be added to the above price according to the shipping address at checkout.

Model : 14-M01GBL-SSB

Case : Stainless steel 316L. Domed box type sapphire crystal (non reflective coating) on top, see-through sapphire case back. Water resistant up to 50 meters (5 Bar).

Dimensions : 40.6 mm. Thickness : 11.0 mm.

Weight total : 134 g.

Lug to lug: 48.7 mm

Movement : KT7002 based on ETA 2892 ébauches, power reserve 38 hours, customized by MINASE with hand-made polishing and "perlage" on plates and bridges.

Face : Polished steel indexes with luminous material

Hands : Polished, luminous material 

Functions : Hours, minutes and central seconds, date at 3 o'clock.

Bracelet : 316L stainless steel with deployment buckle. MORE concept.

You can check out all the new flavors for the Divido 2.0 at the Minase International site -

Minase Divido 2.0

More Urushi Goodness

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase

You may remember the blue Urushi, but the folks in Akitia-ken weren't done!  They dropped a green (above) and red (below) version as well.  As an FYI, per the Minase International website, there are only 2 left.

Courtesy of Minase

Here are the pertinents -

Prices are excluding of VAT, which will be added to the above price according to the shipping address at checkout.

Model: Divido Urushi Silver Maki-e dial

Case: Stainless steel 316L. Domed box type sapphire crystal (non reflective coating) on top, see-through sapphire case back. Water resistant up to 50 meters (5 Bar).

Dimensions: 40.5 mm. Thickness : 12,0 mm.

Lug to lug: 48 mm

Weight total: 150 g.

Movemen: KT7001/1, power reserve 38 hours, Swiss ebauche, customized by MINASE with hand-made polishing and "perlage" on plates and bridges. Minase customized rotor.

Face: Deep blue, Green or Red Urushi sprinkled in silver Maki-e

Hands: polished, luminous material on hour and minute markers

Functions : Hours, minutes and central second hands. Date at 3 o'clock.

Bracelet: Synthetic rubber band or 316L Stainless Steel bracelet with Steel deployment buckle.

CHF 5,350

The COFFEE ARABICA LIMITED EDITION

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase

Soooo Drip!  

This unique series of 10 pieces was created to celebrate the new partnership between Minase and 10tenLabs®.  10tenLabs® is the new distribution partner for Minase in the Mid-East region. And if you were planning on laying hands to one?  Sorry, this one sold out faster than Duran Duran tickets in 1984 ; )

For those lucky enough to have secured one for themselves?  Hang onto it!

Some Urushi Goodness

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase

As previously mentioned, I worked for Minase to help bring them to North America. As of the turn of the year, I am no longer an official team member, but absolutely an unofficial brand evangelist! And therefore, after nearly 2 years, I can put on my enthusiast's hat and write from the heart.

The Divido is a huge favorite, particularly in North America. In many ways it sums up the thesis behind Minase's watches, extremely well executed design combined with painstakingly extensive hand finishing. And as with the other dials (particularly the blue/purple), the Urushi dial is the crowning touch to an already impressive time machine. And as much as the blue/purple dialed Divido was a rare find, the Urushi dialed Divido is a true unicorn, selling out in the blink of an eye. 

But don't worry, the folks in Akita-ken are hard at work to make some more! For now the replenishment pieces are available for pre-order.

Here are the pertinents -

Model : Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e dial

Case : Stainless steel 316L. Domed box type sapphire crystal (non reflective coating) on top, see-through sapphire case back. Water resistant up to 50 meters (5 Bar).

Dimensions : 40.5 mm. Thickness : 12,0 mm.

Lug to lug: 48 mm

Weight total : 150 g.

Movement : KT7001/1, power reserve 38 hours, Swiss ebauches, customized by MINASE with hand-made polishing and « perlage » on plates and bridges. Minase customized rotor, treated in black or.

Face : Deep blue, Urushi sprinkled in silver Maki-e

Hands : polished, luminous material on hours’ and minutes’

Functions : Hours, minutes and central second hands. Date at 3.

Bracelet : 316L stainless steel with deployment buckle. MORE concept.

7 Days with the Minase Divido

So a quick point, although I announced the start of the 7 day review of this watch in Part 3 of my Minase visit report -

A Grand Day Out - Minase 3

The review actually started last Tuesday, February 27th.

Courtesy of Minase

So it is time to sum up and wrap up what it has been like to wear the Minase Divido for one week.  I was given the watch at the factory, and then had it sized in Tokyo.  And a big "Arigato Gozaimasu" goes out to Ysuyoshi Hoshino who was kind enough to hustle over from the Minase HQ in Kashiwa, Chiba-Ken to Tokyo to do the adjusting!  Needless to say, I think Seiko would have said "take it to a watch maker" ; )

As you may recall, I was first introduced to this particular Divido the day before during the tour of the Minase factory.  It was, as you see above, somewhat disassembled.  

This was to enable one of Minase's watch makers the opportunity to demonstrate the how the pieces fit together, and to give some visual understanding about why some of the design choices were made.

Minase started out in the watch business doing OEM work, making cases and bracelets for some other more well-known brands.  And in the process of doing this, decided that they could perhaps build a better watch themselves.  The case of the Divido is unique, but also somewhat traditional.  It is the only piece in the current Minase collection that is round.

The case is a very balanced, very sensible 40.5 mm in diameter.  It is round, but with lugs that extend out slightly to create a bit of depth and structure (both visibly and physically).  

The size was perfect for me, with the lug horns just reaching the edge of my wrist.  

The case is the beneficiary of Minase's incomparable Sallaz polishing technique.  The results speak for themselves.

The watch is water resistant to 5 ATM or 50 meters.  This is achieved without a screw down crown or a more traditional case design.  

So as you can see from the exploded view of the Divido, you will note that the case contains several elements that help comprise what Minase refers to as their "case within a case".  You will notice from the bottom piece to the top there are several layers, or "stages" of the watch.  

The bottom of the watch is pretty straight forward.  It acts both as the case back and the "anchor" to the "interior case" with comprises the movement, the dial, and the index ring.  This achieves a great level of depth and creates a very interesting visual effect.  Essentially, the center of the watch almost "floating" in the "outer case".

This is a little easier to conceptualize with a light glowing through the case back -

The watch is very legible owing in no small part to the "layering effect" that is achieved through the case in case concept.  Another important note - while you can see the light from the phone glowing through the back, this is not a watch that utilizes lume with the exception of a small bit on the hands. 

Yes, that is me with a flashlight in my mouth

And I think I get this.  This is a watch to be worn and admired in normal light conditions.  And in fairness, there are plenty of watches that eschew lume completely.  But I also know that a lot of watch collectors are very, very partial to lume and will only buy a watch with heavy amounts on the dial.  And fair enough.  For the record, I personally have found no shortcomings from this, but if copious lume is a deal breaker for you, this might not be for you.

The one thing that I thought I would be put off with was the "open" date window showing the date as well as yesterday and tomorrow.  But the date for today lines up perfectly both with the arrow and the 3 o'clock marker.  It was a pleasure to look at the watch, and it was always easy to get the date and time with a glance.  The only challenge was my wandering eye admiring the case within case and the deep blue of the dial.

This is the inner case on the bench, so not locked in and 100% aligned, but it gives you a sense of the depth and hence, the legibility of the watch face.  The outer chapter ring is a stand-alone stainless steel piece that provides the hour indications.  

Courtesy of Minase

 So again, this sets Minase apart.  It would be easy to simply slap a dial in there, but the goal was to create something unique and special.  Just to give you an idea, here are the constituent parts that help make up the whole of the inner case of the Divido -

Oh, and it bears mentioning - all of those seemingly unimportant parts that you might not be able to see 100%?

Sallaz polishing.  While a few better known brands might simply use Sallaz polishing for their cases, Minase feels that every part that is potentially visible and is important. 

Courtesy of Minase

I have appropriated a photo from Minase to show the crown in better detail that what I was able to manage...

as you can see ; )  On the plus side, this does help highlight the floating effect of the case in case design.  The crown is sort of a hybrid of those found on a traditional big crown pilot watch.  The crown itself is tactile and solid, engages smoothly in all positions.  Now without crown guards, it appears to sit out a bit more prominently than it actually does.  Having said that, it is out there and can snag on sweaters, etc. as any other prominent crown could do.

I am borrowing a shot I took at the factory of the same model, but with a rubber strap (i.e. easier to photograph).

Minase refers to the movement as the KT 7001.  Look closely and you will see Swiss Made on the rotor.  This is not anything that Minase is trying to hide.  When deciding what movement to use, Minase didn't dwell on keeping it 100% down-home 日本 (Japan).  They start with a Swiss ebauche from the folks at ETA (2824-2) in this model, and then put their touch on it -

In terms of timekeeping, it was flawless.  No noticeable deviations.  I had asked about this, a Swiss movement in an otherwise Japanese watch (one that in many ways is more Japanese than some other bigger operations who do a lot of their manufacturing "off shore", and the answer was simple.  They wanted the best.  Minase's case has a very complex design and assembly.  And this was not done just for the sake of complexity.  It was (and continues to be) done in the interest of longevity.  Even the lug pieces can be replaced in a Minase watch.  So the belief is that the best, most reliable movement available should be used to ensure that it will be solid right out of the gate, and will be able to be serviced well into the future.

The bracelet is perhaps the most impressive that I have encountered in a watch at this price point.  

The links are tight, but very movable when the watch is worn, ensuring a very comfortable fit on the wrist.

The bracelet is secured with a twin button clasp, but it is not a butterfly on the underside, but rather a single side.  This is what creates the slight gap between the bracelet end and the clasp.  

This is not evident when worn normally (i.e. watch face up) but when the watch is face down with the wrist and clasp "sunny side up", the natural pull of the watch downwards accentuates the space.  This is also a very clever design choice because it allows for the free movement of that section of the bracelet ensuring that the actual link piece can move, not pinch.

The bracelet was incredibly comfortable and did not pull on my very hairy wrist.  Because the bracelet uses alternating sized links, the fit and feel of the bracelet is quite good.

Also interesting to relate, there are no visible screw heads or pin and collars on the side of the bracelet as you would see in other bracelets -

The links are removed by removing the screws on the underside of the links themselves.  This is not intended to be a "do-it-yourself" touch, but rather a more elegant solution.  Minase would strongly encourage you (assuming that you are not a trained watch maker) to have the bracelet adjusted by a trained watch maker.

Overall, this is a very, very impressive watch.

But this is where we get to the question - is this the watch for you?

Minase is not now, (nor do I expect it ever will be) a manufacturer of the size and scale of Seiko.  And frankly, I do not get the impression that they ever want to be.  So the first question you have to ask yourself - do you identify with the brand, or the watch?  Then secondly, if you do identify with the brand, what type of brand do you appreciate - is it a massive commercial concern, or is it a small, local concern staffed by local craftspeople who have been apprenticed by the company from a young age?

If we are simply talking about performance, I would put the Divido up against anything from Grand Seiko, or frankly just about anything else at its price point.

If we are talking about the emotional content, the stuff that hits you with a visceral gut bomb?   The intangible stuff that makes you feel things without you necessarily understanding why?  Well, then the Minase Divido ticks those boxes as well.

When you consider brands like GoS, ochs und junior, Sarpaneva and other esoteric brands that still manage to captivate us?  That's about more than just a watch, and a financial calculation.  That is about passion, about feeling, about romance.  And the Divido well and truly belongs in that category.

Should you buy the Divido?  I have to be honest, it is not for everyone.  Not everyone will "get" the design philosophy.  Not everyone will feel safe buying a relatively unknown, small production, (let's face it) micro brand.  Some purists will not be able to get their heads around a Japanese watch with a Swiss ebauche.  Well, fair enough.  Some people like vanilla ice cream...

And some of us like pistachio ; )

But in all seriousness, this is not a watch for everyone.  Minase is not design by committee for the masses.  And that's okay.  On a personal note, I will be very, very sorry to see it go back to Japan.  It has been a real joy to wear.

Here are the pertinents, straight from Minase -

Specs:

Case

Stainless steel 316L. Domed box type sapphire crystal (non reflective coating), flat sapphire crystal on the back.

Water resistant up to 50 meters (5 ATM).
Diameter - 40.5 mm. Thickness: 12.0 mm. Weight: 100 / 150 g.

Movement
KT 7001/1 by MINASE with hand-made polishing and "perlage" on plates and bridges.

Dial 

"Case in Case" structure: the essential feature of HiZ concept and exclusive development where individual components are assembled to become a 3- dimensional dial. Together with the movement and the hands, this structure
becomes an independent entity assembled inside the case.

Functions
Hours, minutes and central second hands. Date at 4.
 

Strap
Rubber (EPDM) with stainless steel deployment clasp or in a solid stainless steel execution featuring MORE concept. The patented design feature individual links that are screwed individually instead of the traditional pin-system

Clasp
Deployment buckle with steel side pushers.

A Grand Day Out - Minase 3

その部分の総和

(the sum of it's parts)

In the interest of full disclosure, I had to rely on Google Translate for this one, so I am not entirely certain of the linguistic nuance.  I will say that it was remarkable that after 25 years, I was still able to communicate at a fairly basic level, with enough semi-esoteric phrases thrown in to give the (very false) impression that I was even semi-competent in Japanese.  Buy a train ticket, ask for directions, order in a restaurant?  Absolutely no problem!  Just don't ask me to direct a light opera ; )

courtesy of Minase

So you may recall the "exploded" Divido image from our previous installment.  And I had a few questions about why Minase would go out of their way to make their bracelets and cases so complex.

どうして
(why)

This might not be the answer that you are expecting.  It's not to be complex for the sake of complexity.  The real reason is longevity. And just what does that mean?

Well, let's answer that question with another - 
What would you do if you bent/damaged the lug horn of your watch?  In most cases, the watch brand would offer to sell you an entirely new case, or simply shrug and give you the "deal with it" face.  In other words, in most situations where you damage a small part of the case or bracelet your only option is to spend a shit-ton of money to completely replace the item, or to shove the damaged watch in a desk drawer where it will slowly gather dust with the other forgotten items of your life.  But Minase felt that a watch shouldn't be a potentially disposable item.  It should be something for a lifetime, and the one way to ensure that was to create a watch that could be reconstructed, piece by piece.

Courtesy of Minase

Exhibit 1 - the Minase Divido - in it's complete form.

And in it's semi-disassembled state (above). 

The main point I wish to underscore is not"hard-core", let's examine every little inch of the movement and compare the intricacies of the mechanism.   As reported earlier, Minase does not make their own movements. But what is interesting here is the amount of depth and detail that goes into crafting the case, the bracelet, and how it all fits together.

But for those of you movement obsessed, let me assure you that the movement is contained under the dial and hands in the "case within a case" as pictured below -

Remember when I spoke about the people of Minase? Well the young man you are about to see is a perfect example of what makes Minase special. Try to imagine, you are a young watch maker, you've been at the company for awhile, and are certainly good at your job. You go to work on Monday and get asked to disassemble, then reassemble a watch. Okay, no big deal, you do that every day. 

 
Oh - one more thing - we want to let two foreigners into your workspace to watch, photograph, video and ask questions. 

大丈夫
daijoubu
(okay?)

Apparently the answer was-

はい 
hai
(yes) 

 
Think you get that warm and fuzzy reception when you visit the "big dogs" in Switzerland or Germany? Think again.  But I also want to clear up any potential misunderstanding.  I have absolutely NO idea what the atmosphere is like at Seiko, Citizen, etc.  So I do not want to convey the notion that this is a Japan vs. Europe thing.  I do not travel in the circles of writers & (more specifically) influencers who have visited the big watch dogs of Japan.  What I have heard is that they tend to have press junkets, where there is time to rehearse, plan and execute the same presentation that was given to the last group of journalists that came through.  And fair enough, when you're that big, and you have that many visitors, it's sensible to work from a script.  But the point I am making here is that I requested several different examples that bordered on full-blown presentations, pretty much on the spot, on the day of the tour.  and they ALL were accommodated with no questions asked.  No matter how complex or time consuming, the folks at Minase wanted to show what they could do.  Not because the boss told them to, but because of the pride that they clearly take in their work.

The Divido is in some ways a very complex puzzle, and while that adds a certain cool cachet, that is not really the point. The point was to have a watch that could last a lifetime, no matter what life dishes out to it.

You will note that the bracelet has been taken apart to show the individual pieces.  I realize that it is hard to see from here, but there are no visible pieces (i.e. pin & collar) or screws visible from the outside of the bracelet. 

So just how do you adjust the bracelet?
I have borrowed a photo from the Minase website to give you a look at the underside of the bracelet.

Courtesy of Minase

So if you look at the bottom of the link pieces, you will see a screw head.  To remove links, you unscrew that screw head which will then enable you to get at the pins to remove the links.  Now I will make a further (and important) point.  The reason for the design of the bracelet and the use of screws to remove links was not to create a "do it yourself" feature.  As noted previously, this is a fairly complex system and should you become the proud owner of a bracelet equipped Minase, take it to your watch maker to make any adjustments.  But the true purpose for the underside screw location is one of elegance as much as function.  No visible pins, collars or screws when you are wearing the watch.  But to ensure that the bracelet holds together as it should, they rely on something that pretty much every brand relies on (whether they admit it or not)...

Yes, that is Locktite (or something like it). They don't use a lot, but just enough to be certain that things are held together safe and secure.

Once the bracelet was reassembled, the next step was to put the case together.

And finally attach the bracelet. 

And there you have it!


So some reflections -

The Minase factory is not a shiny, space age, hermetically sealed facility. It is an open, lived-in work space where real people make real things with their hands. Does Minase have the same public recognition as say Grand Seiko? No, or at least not yet. But what they do have, for lack of a better way to put it, is "Minas sais quoi". My own little linguistic creation borrowing a wee bit from the French - je ne sais quoi. For those of you who did not benefit from a Gallic linguistic upbringing, it translates to something that is appealing, but you can't adequately describe or articulate what that something is. It is as much a feeling as a quality. And having spent some time at Minase and in Yuzawa, I can honestly say that while I can't completely articulate or describe it, I can honestly say that I get it. 

Interesting to relate, I popped into the duty free store to examine the Seikos (Japan market only, not available in the US) and Grand Seikos.  And while they were perfectly nice, they did not give me the same feeling that the Minase watches did.  Suffice it to say, the band of watchmaking brothers and sisters from Yuzawa made a real impression on me.

And although part of the story ends here, I encourage you to stay tuned for the next few days.  The folks at Minase were so confident of their watches, they asked me to do a review.  And before you ask, NO.  They did not go to the vault for a brand new, unworn specimen.  And they did not recall a watch from a retailer.  They felt that as I had seen the disassembly and reassembly of a Minase Divido, I should review the one I had observed in its deconstructed form.

So seven days with the Minase Divido begins now.