Wednesday, April 30, 2014

The Extra Fort Automatic

Sometimes, you just yearn for a classic -

Courtesy of Eberhard
The Extra-Fort Automatic from Eberhard.

Don't Get Emotionally Attached...

I think if there was a "training book" for writing about and reviewing watches, this would be the very first lesson that would be imparted.  When I worked at Tourneau, one of the big-wig training guys was out to train our rag-tag San Francisco bunch.  And he told me flat out - "I worry about you".

He could see the glint in my eye, like Chet Baker before me, I fell in love too easily…

Courtesy of Bell & Ross
But I don't think you could really blame me.  I reviewed this watch some months back, but it is still haunting me.  This wonderful Bell & Ross chronograph.

ALPINA 4 Summits World Challenge


ALPINA



ALPINA AND ALLTRAILS.COM LAUNCH
THE "ALPINA 4 SUMMITS WORLD CHALLENGE"
THE FIRST GLOBAL ELEVATION CHALLENGE

A New Treasure from the Girard-Perregaux Museum

This is what is presently being referred to as the Tact watch by Rossel & Fils.
Courtesy of Girard- Perregaux
The very nice people from Girard-Perregaux forwarded this to me this morning.  While some elements are known and established, this is a watch with a bit of a story yet to be told.  I defer to the folks in La Chaux-de-Fonds -

The Verdict is in!

This is one of Hysek's latest pieces,  the Verdict 46 mm Double Tourbillon Sapphire Dial
Courtesy of HYSEK
Two independent tourbillons are coupled together by means of a differential gearing mechanism.

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

C5 Malvern Slimline

This just in from Christopher Ward -

Christopher Ward marks 10 years with the new C5 Malvern Slimline -

Courtesy of Christopher Ward
As the company celebrates its 10th anniversary year, Christopher Ward has gone ‘back to the future’ to create a stunning new watch — the C5 Malvern Slimline – inspired by the first ever Christopher Ward model, the now legendary C5 Malvern Automatic.

Sunday, April 27, 2014

What If? A Ball Watch USA Update!

Thought we were finished?  No, we're just getting started!

I am EXTREMELY happy to report that Ball Watch USA has joined our ever-growing band of brothers and sisters in the Tempus Fugit Initiative to fund the efforts of the IAPF!

THANK YOU Ball Watch USA!

Thursday, April 24, 2014

A Grand Day Out with A. Manzoni & Fils

Like every year, this year I had a small "field trip" to somewhere I'd never been before -
Lugano!

So I met up with the man behind the re-birth of A. Manzoni & Fils, Oliver Ike for a morning coffee.
I had never been to Lugano before, and after a long flight and a long train ride from Zurich, I arrived at the train station in Lugano after dark with no real idea of how to get to the hotel!  And to further add to the intrigue, everything was in Italian.

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

The Contograf

This is from the folks at Eberhard.
Courtesy of Eberhard
42 mm stainless steel.  Bi-compax chronograph. Water resistant to 50 meters

Negoro Timepiece

This is the latest from Martin Pauli at Angular Momentum
Courtesy of Angular Momentum/Manu Propria
Here is the scoop straight from Martin -

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

A New Take on a Classic

I have come to accept a few things about myself:

1.  I have a terrible poker face, I can't really hide my facial reactions.
2.  Although we may NEVER win a national championship, I still believe that Oregon some day WILL win a national championship.
3.  No matter how long I have lived elsewhere, I am still a Northern Youth.
4.  I am absolutely biased in favor of almost everything that Girard-Perregaux makes - it is fortunate that blogging doesn't make me any real "bank" because I know where most of the money would end up ; )
Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
This is Girard-Perregaux's latest take on their Iconic Sea Hawk.

Win a Frederique Constant Watch!

Well, that got your attention ; )

The nice folks at Frederique Constant have generously agreed to donate something towards the Tempus Fugit Initiative to fund the International Anti-Poaching Foundation!

From now through the end of June, if you pledge at least $50 to the IAPF, your name will be entered to win a Frederique Constant watch!

How does it work?  Well it couldn't be simpler:

1.  Go to the side banner ad for the International Anti Poaching Foundation on the right side of this site.
or simply click here:  IAPF
2.  Click the ad, and it will take you to the IAPF's main site
3.  Click on the DONATE button
4.  In the notes section be sure to write "TEMPUS FUGIT INITIATIVE"

On July 2nd (Canada Day) the winner will be selected through a random drawing.

So stop sitting on the sidelines and waiting for the watch companies to do all of the "heavy lifting"!  Join the Tempus Fugit Initiative now!

And just so you know, we have other prizes for individual donors to be announced in the coming days, stay tuned!

Monday, April 21, 2014

Green Boots

I discovered these guys in Monocle.  This is Green Boots, the London model.  I believe that they are based in Leira, Portugal.

Courtesy of Green Boots
Suede, the sole is constructed of recycled tires!


Sunday, April 20, 2014

The Amsterdam

From Fromanteel -
This was just forwarded to me by a reader.

DOXA Gives Us the World

This is part of DOXA's special releases for their 125th anniversary -
Courtesy of DOXA 
This is the Blue Planet.

Friday, April 18, 2014

The Canaletto

This is something from Rolf Lang Dresden -
Courtesy of Rolf Lang Dresden
The Canaletto in onyx.

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Not Quite White from NIVREL

Sometimes it is the most basic item that is the most appealing. Well, basic in terms of functions and perhaps basic in terms of intent.  This is the Replique Manuelle.
This is a beautiful hand wound timekeeper from NIVREL.

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Credit Where Credit is Due!

So shines a good deed in a weary world - Willy Wonka


Courtesy of 88 Rue Du Rhone
This is the 88 RUE DU RHONE egg.  It was created by Ran Hwang for The Big Egg Hunt.  

Alarming News from DOXA!

Okay, sorry, I couldn't resist the low-hanging fruit ; )
Courtesy of DOXA
I am a sucker for an alarm watch.  There is something to be said the assurance that you will not oversleep and miss your early morning flight back home.

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

A Few MInutes with Marc Alfieri

Artist, artisan, watch designer.  And now, a few minutes with Marc Alfieri


Tempus Fugit - What was your first watch?  Was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

Worldcode GMT

This just in from Saint Honore -
Courtesy of Saint Honore
Here are the details -

Monday, April 14, 2014

As We Continue to Face Some Facts

The transfer window has opened again...

There is news from ROLEX that, wait for it, they will replace Gian Riccardo Marini.  Spoiler alert - the next man in the Rolex "hot seat" or as  Business Motres  have described it - the "chaise musicale" is Jean-Frédéric Dufour, most recently head of Zenith.

So first and foremost - CONGRATULATIONS to Mr. Dufour!  You have earned the opportunity and we all look forward to following you and Rolex's exploits.

A big thank you to Jonathan Kopp for breaking the news to those of us who don't share French as a language of any fluency ; )

But wait you say, Gian Riccardo Marini was only in this position for a short time yet none of the same type of "informed opinion" on this staff change as the one at Corum.  Interesting...

The point, dear readers is really this -
those of us who follow and report on the world of watches do so because we are passionate about it.  They are magical, fun and somewhat mysterious.  So when real world business decisions enter the picture it can be difficult to put the passion on hold and look at brass tacks.

The reality is that this is a business.  And like any business, sometimes you have to make changes, and sometimes that means that people get replaced, and the hope is that the change will be for the better.

So Mr. Marini, all the best of success for the future.  

Facing Some Difficult Facts… an update

Well, according to one brave, anonymous commenter out there - I am a moron ; )

But I suspect that this brave, outspoken champion of free speech and I share one thing in common, the belief that opinions are a bit like backsides…

Enjoy your watches everyone - and don't be afraid to share your feelings - even if you ARE afraid to sign your name ; )

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Desire… continued

You don't need a watch…

Courtesy of ETERNA
Or do you?

Facing Some Difficult Facts

With the recent disclosure that Antonio Calce is no longer at the helm of Corum, I was truly shocked, saddened and frankly disappointed by the commentary from some of the "alleged" watch press - and yes, you know who you are. 

To give you some background, Mr. Calce was hired as the CEO for Corum, and with the takeover of ETERNA by Haidian Group he was also asked to head up ETERNA as well.  Without getting into too much detail, the basics are that his "Eterna sojourn" was fairly short-lived, and he went back to being in charge solely of Corum.  And as of a few days ago word leaked out that he was, in fact, no longer at the helm of Corum. 


And now to get back to what I find troubling - "REAL JOURNALISTS" instead of, I don't know, doing some "journalist stuff" immediately hit social media with comments like:

"well what do you expect from the Chinese?"  or  "It was bound to happen with the Chinese who don't know ANYTHING about the Swiss watch business" or other even more xenophobic comments.

I CALL BULLSHIT!

That is the dumbest, most ill-informed, and frankly pathetic "fair and balanced reporting" that I have ever read.    If these are the "journalists"… well, let's just say that they are drinking too much of their own bath water.  

Let's face some facts:

1.  Neither Corum or Eterna for that matter were exactly being fought over by Richemont, SWATCH or LVMH.  That doesn't mean that Corum and Eterna aren't valuable, because they are.  But if we focus strictly on the reality here - they needed more than just money, they needed help.  And frankly, Haidian was there for them.

2.  What NOBODY is actually willing to consider, that maybe, just maybe Haidian actually DOES know something about the Swiss watch industry.

3.  And lastly - let's ask the most awkward question - is it at all possible that maybe, just maybe Mr. Cacle just wasn't successful?  Maybe he was not able to meet the goals that were set?  And let's really be honest, it is NOT like Haidian took over and immediately cleaned house.  Swiss companies have "cut bait" much faster than this.  Swiss companies, with Swiss boards of directors have "shit-canned" Swiss CEOs within DAYS of takeover, and frankly, nobody batted an eye.  But then again, I guess they were the "right" nationality...

So gentle readers, with all the trouble in the world today with misunderstanding and mistrust, perhaps we could dispense with all of the "armchair expert" opinions from "journalists" who have never even worked in the industry - people very good at going to expensive events, getting hotels, flights and meals comped (all the while complaining about the inconvenience), and frankly should know better.  The fact that the owners are not Swiss has absolutely NO bearing on this, or other terminations due to "misadventure".  The truth is sometimes not so sexy, but sometimes people fail.  And frankly, there is no shame in failure.  

But there is shame in chucking up slow, fat pitches without doing the research to back it up.  People say I'm not a "journalist" but a "blogger".   I can live with that.

Curse You Red Baron!

This is the WW1 Guynemer from Bell & Ross

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

 This was one of the novelties from this year's BaselWorld

Saturday, April 12, 2014

POP-PILOT GIB

And next we travel to Gibraltar with the POP-PILOT
Courtesy of POP-PILOT
Yes, Gibraltar...

The Ladies Collection from CTK

The Chinese Timekeeper has been busy!  Ready just in time for BaselWorld, this is the new ladies collection from the Chinese Timekeeper.

Courtesy of the Chinese Timekeeper
Up first is the CTK 103 - a vision with RED JADE indices!

Friday, April 11, 2014

A New "Pop" Star

I was just introduced to something that I think is really, pretty great!  I will be introducing these one at a time.
Courtesy of POP Pilot
This is the POP-PILOT SEZ.

Jumping the Shark with Vulcain

From the Uban Dictionary:

a term to describe a moment when somethin that was once great has reached a point where it will now decline in quality and popularity.

Origin of this phrase comes from a Happy Days episode where the Fonz jumped a shark on waterskis. Thus was labeled the lowest point of the show.

Vulcain, the brand currently found in exclusive retail outlets like Ebay selling for pennies on the dollar for BRAND NEW WATCHES has decided that as the brand is dropping in perceived value like a stone, the thing to save it is - you guessed it - a tourbillon!

Here's the thing, I would be THRILLED if Vulcain can "right" the boat.  But when your product is being dumped en masse by your previous "trusted distribution partners", is your salvation really awaiting in an even higher priced watch that will inevitably be deeply discounted?

Vulcain is suffering a major identity crisis, and its latest stewards don't seem to see the disparities between belief and perception.  And yes, these are very, very different things.  The belief seems to be that they feel that they are a luxury brand, capable of demanding the highest prices.  Unfortunately the perception is that they put out a product, take a reasonable price and multiply it until it bleeds, and put it on the market.  And then watch while the actual retail price drops and drops - due to the perception of their distribution partners and the retail partners.

So let's hope that the powers that be at Vulcain will be able to figure this out, but I suspect that there might be a future bargain to be had at the next grey market's store "blue light special".

On the Street in Santa Barbara

So you are the hard-working sales agent for a solar - powered vineyard… what watch would you wear?

Well clearly a Citizen Eco-Drive!

Thursday, April 10, 2014

The Torch has Been Passed at Raymond Weil

Courtesy of Raymond Weil
Word has made its way here to Santa Barbara today about the change at the top of Raymond Weil.

The Best of Intentions...


I won't try to deceive you, I went to Switzerland with a mission, to buy ONE Swatch Sistem51

I decided I should take care of it early in the trip, so I found myself at the SWATCH store in Lugano, spent a few minutes and pulled the trigger.  Blue, to remind me of my long since departed SWATCH Calypso Diver.

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

The Leoncino

Courtesy of Magrette
This just in from Magrette

A Pretty Amazing BaselWorld for GoS Watches

It is important to be clear - I am biased. I represent GoS Watches here in the US and the Caribbean and therefore, well, I'm biased ; )

So in the interest of fairness, I am just going to simply share this amazing image.

A Little Time Spent with Raymond Weil

BaselWorld is "crazy-hectic"!  And you have to be ready to move and jump when the opportunity comes along.
Courtesy of Raymond Weil
Lucky for me, I know a guy!  So thanks to the good folks at Raynond Weil, here is the Maestro.

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

“Organic Time Companions” Dietrich 1969

After what by all accounts was a very successful BaselWorld debut, Dietrich 1969 prepares to move into the retail sector.
Courtesy of Dietrich 1969
But this is more than a story about a new watch, it is the story of a designer with a vision, striking out on his own.

Monday, April 7, 2014

Some Basic Rules for BaselWorld - Don't Lose Your Shit

This is for brands, bloggers, "magazine mavens" and buyers.

1.  Be polite!  If you are covering watches, don't' start grabbing stuff and "instagramming" it before you even manage a "hello" or "how are you?".  Ask:  "May I?" before you reach your hairy paw over to grab watches.

If you are told that the watch in question is in embargo (i.e. not to be photographed or talked about), don't be an ass-hat!  Pretend that you didn't see it, turn away and ask about other items.  If you are not supposed to report on embargoed items, there is no reason to insist on photographing them.

2.  Be considerate of other people's time.  If you are late, recognize this and apologize - and that goes for BOTH sides of the booth.

3.  Don't double-book!  I don't care how tight your time is, if you double-book, someone will notice.  I do not care HOW important your PR agency thinks the blogger two doors down might be.  If I've made an appointment with you - I am the most important person on your dance card at that moment.  I do not expect my "host" to excuse themselves to go and "kiss the ring" of someone who never even writes about them during MY TIME.  I've spent time, money and vacation hours to be at your booth at BaselWorld.  Don't mess me about for someone else.  I am the one who you came to the dance with.

4.  Be understanding - it will happen that a brand will schedule something, and for whatever reason it gets forgotten.  Nine times out of ten, it is not personal.  It's okay to say that you are disappointed.  It is not okay to lose your shit.  Turn the page.

And for the brands -
Sometimes  it is entirely possible that your appointment is having medical distress.  It isn't personal - and it isn't someone "flaking out" - thank you Liliana for that charming turn of phrase.
Again - accept apologies, don't lose your shit.  And for those of you PR mavens who cannot and will not accept situations beyond normal control - GET OVER YOURSELVES!

5.  Don't "ass things up" for everyone else.  Bloggers are finally getting a reasonable reputation.  Don't be the blogger that everyone is so afraid of that they spend precious time catering to your profound neurosis, and then end up not helping out your fellow bloggers as they are busy falling all over themselves trying to keep your dumb ass happy.   Invest in some therapy if your self-esteem is suffering, but don't take it out on the poor souls trying to feed your massive ego.  And news flash - you are not respected, you are feared - and not feared owing to your professional opinion, you are feared because of your past track record for, well, losing your shit.

6.  Bloggers, writers, editors - take the time to actually get to know your brand contacts.  Are they married? Do they have kids?  How old are the kids?  What are their hobbies?
You enjoy being asked about yourself, why do you think that they are different?  Take an interest!  Does your brand contact have a cat that frequently visits his atelier?  If so, does the cat like sardines?  This information could prove invaluable when shopping for appropriate gifts when visiting said atelier later on.  I for one would bring sardines if that was what the atelier cat enjoyed.

I guess overall, the main message is "Don't Lose Your Shit".  More importantly, don't be a shit.


Having worked BaselWorld from both sides of the counter, I am constantly amazed that 90% of things happen perfectly.

And 10% is, well, life.  Life happens.  It isn't personal ; )

So with less than 12 months to get ready,  Here's to BaselWorld 2015!


And -

DON'T LOSE  YOUR SHIT!


TNT Royal Retro 43

So owing to poor schedule keeping on my part, my coverage of Pierre DeRoche has actually been two years in the making, but it was worth it!
Courtesy of Pierre DeRoche 
This is the TNT Royal Retro 43.

Wrongs Getting "Righted"

It was a pleasant surprise to have last year's Writing Wrongs Award on hand with this year's winner! Last year Fonderie 47 was the winner and Peter Thum came by to wish this year's winner well - Marc Alfieri.  Marc was selected this year for his work on the Polio Watch.
Left to right: Samuel Naldi, Peter Thum, James Henderson, Marc Alfieri, Carlo Naldi


So the big question is -
Who will win next year?

Stay tuned!

Sunday, April 6, 2014

A Cuff Link Calling Your Name

Well, at least a cuff link that will help you spell your name ; )


Available in gold

The Elliptic Grade Aviator

I had the pleasant surprise of receiving some information from these folks today.
Courtesy of Beltonn
This it the Elliptic Grade Aviator from Beltonn.

Ahoy Atlantik

The big splash for NOMOS Glashutte last year was the Ahoi.  Well, because you should never swim without your "buddy" -

Courtesy of NOMOS Glashutte
Available as a time only model…

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Historiador Racing

Another great piece from Cuervo y Sobrinos -
Courtesy of Cuervo y Sobrinos
This is the Historiador Racing from Cuervo y Sobrinos 

The Extra Otto

From Montegrappa -

Courtesy of Montegrappa
While we often say that there are two sides to every story, as it pertains to Montegrappa there are in fact eight sides!

Hyvää Päivää S.U.F!

That's "Good Day" to you ; )


So I snuck in to say a quick hyvää huomenta (good morning) to Stepan Sarpaneva and beg for a coffee on Thursday morning, and finally got to lay hands on one of his S.U.F watches.

What If? A "Passionate" Update!

As many readers know, I live and work on both sides of the "counter". I represent a few brands, I write pr materials, I do some marketing consulting, and I also write this little blog. From time to time I come into contact with some challenging souls. But every so often, I get to meet and know some truly wonderful people. And Tim and Janna Jackson of Passion Fine Jewelry are perhaps two of the best people in the industry.  That is not just about being nice, but being honest, ethical and engaged with their customers and their partners.


And as if that weren't enough, they have also joined the Tempus Fugit Initiative!

THANK YOU!

Time Well Spent with Savoy

This was perhaps my favorite BaselWorld by far! I got a LOT in, but perhaps best of all was getting to meet and spend time with some people that I have only met "virtually".  My Sunday morning was spent in part with Pascal and Lola Savoy.


Savoy is a FUN brand! And one that I suspect you will be hearing about more and more because they have taken what I believe is a very egalitarian approach to luxury.

There are a lot of "bargain brands" out there at one end of the scale, and at the other end there are brands that can bankrupt you due to their very, very high cost!


But then we fall to a price category that frankly is a bit unloved by watch brands - but truly loved by customers.  That being in the sweet spot of $1,000 or so.

Friday, April 4, 2014

A Pair of Wrist-Rockets

Two wonderfully incendiary timekeepers from Bell & Ross!

Up first is the  BR 01 B-ROCKET    

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

ROSSO

That's "RED" to you ; )

This just came in from Temption -
Courtesy of Temption
This is known as the CM01 – ROSSO

The Sakura

That's "Cherry Blossom" to you ; )

This just in from the good folks at AOSWatches -
Courtesy of AOS Watches
A truly elegant welcome to spring.  The case is 47.6 mm in diameter and is 14.7 mm thick.  Powered by ETA's 2892.  Hours, minutes, seconds and date - honestly, what else do you need with a watch this beautiful to wear?!?

Courtesy of AOSWatches

Spring has sprung!

A What If Fonderie 47 Update!

And I think it is actually sort of poetic!  Fonderie 47 has pledged to participate in this year's Tempus Fugit Initiative!  That's right, the company based on the principles of doing good by working to remove assault weapons from the hands of boy soldiers and turn "swords into plowshares", and joined our growing band of brothers and sisters!  Oh, and they just happen to be the winner of last year's Writing Wrongs Award.

Once again, an updated head-count coming tomorrow.

Hublot, Tissot, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Oris, Movado, Ball - and the rest of you - what are you waiting for?  If BaselWorld booths and gift bags are anything to go by, I think you can afford a few hundred dollars, maybe even a thousand ; )

And for those of you who might have missed it -

What if?

Dear watch companies,

What if?

What if each one of you could take even $5,000 from your annual budgets and donate it to a common cause?  What if the mighty SWATCHRichemontLVMH, ROLEX, Sowind, Audemars PiguetPatek PhillipeUlysse Nardin… what if you all came together with a reasonable contribution with the sole goal of trying to fix an "unfixable" problem?

What if 100 watch companies in the world each contributed $5,000 - $1,000 - hell, even $100 to fund rangers to protect elephants and rhinos from poachers?  What if based on that, we could then go to people with even more money?  What if your KINDNESS and willingness to do something that was totally selfless then triggered people like Phil Knight of Nike, or Oprah Winfrey, or Bill Gates - I mean, let's aim high here!  What if that all got so much money - and so much attention, that it would be better financially for a father to become a ranger, rather than to become a poacher?  

And what if that action, created a groundswell in China and Vietnam to help people understand that maybe, just maybe the preservation of a species is more valuable than a dubious aphrodisiac?

So, let's name some names - Biver, Hayek, Hoffmann, Sofisti (THANK YOU!), Stern, Marini, Raffi, Stas and all the rest of you -
Are you really interested in doing something great - or is it just talk and PR?  
What am I asking for?  Participation!  $5,000 if you have it - for some of you big brands, that is WAY less than you spend on a month of advertising.  And as the saying goes, if you can't afford $5,000, give what you can!  $1,000 - $500 - even $100 would be something.
Do you really want to make a mark in the world and not just talk about it?  Here is a chance to do it!

Who is in?