Tuesday, February 28, 2023

The Big TV Titanium

From Lip -
Courtesy of Lip
I haven't been to Besançon for nearly four years. That is a situation I am going to have to remedy. This is the latest offering from the folks at Lip.
Courtesy of Lip
Roger Tallon saw the Portavia 111 portable television, and saw something more. 

He saw what would become the TV and Big TV.
Courtesy of Lip

That was another time, of course. Lip went through some not great times since the heady days of the original TV and Big TV.

Enter the Berards -
Lip is finally heading back to where it belongs, at the forefront of design. Although I did not receive a press release, my understanding is that Pierre-Alain Berard has been working on this new version of the Big TV for some time. And it has definitely been worth the wait.
Courtesy of Lip
This is a fairly fresh release, and is currently an "on request" item. It is priced at €899.00

Here are the pertinents, straight from Besançon:

Watch reference - 671657

Case
brushed titanium, dimensions 35 mm x 35 mm, thickness (glass included) 12 mm

Case Back
translucent revealing the functioning of its movement

Dial
black with white indexes, minute and hour hands, black and white second hand with luminova finish

Glass
sapphire

Strap
titanium

Buckle
titanium butterfly deployant

Movement
automatic MIYOTA 82S0

Weight
116g

Waterproof
50 meters

Warranty
2 years 

Made in France - Besançon

Monday, February 27, 2023

PIONEER Flieger One NightBlue

From Hanhart -
Courtesy of Hanhart
This one is limited to 150 pieces. It is a three-handed flieger, featuring a deep blue dial and black pvd case and crown. The case measures 42 mm in diameter, with a height of 12 mm.

Courtesy of Hanhart
The movement is the Sellita SW 200, which is automatic and boasts 38 hours of power reserve.

Hours, minutes, and seconds. Nothing superfluous, only what's needed.

The price is 1,290 Euro including VAT (if I have read the release correctly). That is, unless of course, you live in the US where the distributor is also the sole retail point (what's up with that?) where the price is listed at US $1,480... the US price is curiously higher, and that's not saying anything about the 19% VAT which (curious to relate) would not be assessed here in the lower 48. So I honestly don't know why the North American distributor/(curiously only) retail location in the US and Canada is pricing at the level that they are.

With that being said, it is a beautiful flieger that definitely stands out from the the same old pilot's watches out there.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

  • Automatic movement Sellita SW 200
  • 28.800 A/h, 4 Hz, 26 jewels
  • Power reserve of min. 38h

FUNCTIONS

  • Three hands, centre hour, minute and second hands, stop-seconds

CASE

  • Stainless steel, black PVD coating
  • Diameter 42 mm, height 12 mm
  • Large crown with historical h
  • Fluted rotating bezel, continuously rotatable, with red marking
  • Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
  • Engraving of the historical Hanhart “h” and the limitation number XXX/150
  • Screwed-down and blasted stainless steel case back
  • Water-resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM

DIAL

  • NightBlue dial with historical logo
  • Super-LumiNova® C1 GL coated numerals and hands
  • Minute and Second hand bent at tip to prevent parallax errors

STRAP

  • Ox leather with suede finish
  • Royal blue with red cross stitching on the lugs
  • Lug width 22 mm
  • Pin-buckle with a black-color PVD coating and historical logo

Sunday, February 26, 2023

The Astrochron From Ollech & Wajs Zurich

Editor's Note - James Henderson represents Ollech & Wajs in the US and Canada. This post is not a review or endorsement, only a reposting of the official Ollech & Wajs press release. 

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs Zurich

                 THE OW ASTROCHRON: 

         EXPLORING THE LIMITS SINCE 1967

The OW Astrochron story began in Zürich nearly 60 years ago, amidst history’s most ambitious era of exploration. The race to go faster, further and deeper had the world poised at the edge of several new frontiers, the most notable being outer space. The astral realm represented the ultimate in exploration and inspired the name of the famous Ollech & Wajs 1967 ‘triple-register’ chronograph. 

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs Zurich

Perhaps it was inevitable that NASA’s most prestigious scientists would be amongst the elite professionals that used the Astrochron’s various dials and scales (Chief Rocket Scientist - Werner Von Braun amongst them). Engineers, sportsmen, commercial and military divers, pilots and ships officers were also fast to appreciate the value of such a rugged and water-resistant precision timing instrument.

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs Zurich

Only a chronograph of exceptional quality would be worthy of continuing the Astrochron legacy today, and we had endeavoured to ensure this new interpretation is equal to the challenge. With a water-resistance of 50 atm (500 m), the new model more than doubles the depth rating of the original and far exceeds Swiss chronograph standard. Other updates include a 360-degree rotating compass bezel and a 20 minute diver’s scale. These additional utilities, combined with a five-minute Regatta counter, extra-thick sapphire crystal and unique four-gasket pusher system, make the new OW Astrochron as proficient on the ocean as it is under and over it.

Courtesy of Ollech & Wajs Zurich

Inside the brushed 316L stainless steel case is a descendant of the historic Valjoux 72 movement that powered the first Astrochrons. A custom-engraved automatic Valjoux 7753, with an OW machined rotor set onto it, is regulated, adjusted and power-tested in five positions at our workshop in the Swiss Jura, thereby qualifying for the OW Precision rating.

As a final tribute to its forebear, the new chronograph revives the distinctive North Atlantic blue dial of 1968.

Whether you’re exploring a wreck, exploring a theory or just gazing up at the stars and exploring the possibilities, the new OW Astrochron could well be the perfect chronograph. The first 56 numbered OW Astrochron S will be available to reserve via the OW website from March 10th and will be priced Swiss franc 2,496 

SPECIFICATIONS:

Reference
OW ASTROCHRON S

Year 2023

Dimensions
39.56 mm X 16.8 mm

Case
Brushed 316L stainless steel, screwed back, screw-down crown, twin pushers with 4 gaskets. Date adjusted by special diving pusher at 10 o’clock. Rotating 360-degree compass bezel with cardinal direction markers and an angle scale / 60 mn diver’s bezel. Manufactured in Jura, Switzerland.

Glass
Semi-domed sapphire with anti-glare treatment

Dial
Hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova® A seconds register, a 12 hour totalizer and 30 minute totalizer incorporating a Regatta counter.


Water resistance
500m/ 50 atm

Movement
Automatic Valjoux 7753 OW PRECISION 5 position adjusted, 27 Jewels. 28,800 bph, with a power reserve of +/- 54 h. Mainplate engraved Ollech & Wajs Zurich 1956, and OW machined rotor


Origin
Swiss Made

Strap
20mm 316L stainless steel beads of rice, OW S-Type Mark II


ABOUT OLLECH & WAJS:

In 1956 two Swiss watch specialists, Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs, founded Ollech & Wajs. Prizing precision, robustness and durability above all things, the two associates sought only the best components to assemble the finest of wristwatches in their workshop. The Zurich-based company has ever since been dedicated to the creation of mechanical watches equal to any challenge.

The simple OW monogram quickly became known and respected on several fronts. Military and aviation watches proved popular among on American GIs and airmen, who needed a sturdy and reliable time piece in the battlefields of Vietnam. Test pilots and scientists depended on watches like the OW Selectron, with its integrated slide rule performing as a calculator, including those all the way up to the NASA headquarters.

Underwater, OW’s divers line has won the hearts of deep-sea explorers and diving clubs since the ground-breaking debut of the Caribbean 1000 in 1964. With its patented stainless steel monobloc case, certified to be water-resistant up to a depth of 3,300 ft, the Caribbean 1000 enabled OW to set a new world record, ahead of Omega and Rolex. As well as being combat-proven in Vietnam, OW watches were worn by members of the Red Arrows, the French Air Force, record-breaking skin divers, early oil-field divers, British CI5 agents, legendary Cream bassist Jack Bruce, and at least one Apollo era astronaut. All this in spite never actually applying the full company name to a single watch dial.

Upon Albert Wajs' retirement in 2016, OW was acquired by a long-term collector and distributor of the brand. In 2017 a new collection of exceptional timepieces was unveiled, exemplifying the original vision of Joseph Ollech and Alberts Wajs and equal to the challenges of the 21st century.

For more information, contact marketing@ow-watch.ch or pr@ow-watch.ch 

Friday, February 24, 2023

The Fastback GT Nomad

From Gorilla -
Courtesy of Gorilla
The dynamic duo of Lukas Gopp and Octavio Garcia continue to amaze and delight. The Fastback GT Nomad reinforces their design language, offering a truly fun watch at a truly reasonable price.
Courtesy of Gorilla
The Fastback GT Nomad's case is 
crafted from layered forged carbon, with a ceramic bezel, and an anodized aluminum pinstripe.  
It measures 44 mm in diameter, and 57 mm lug to lug, with a titanium case back with a display window. Under the hood is the Miyota 90S5, self winding movement.

The strap is described as Viton™ & perforated leather hybrid.

It is priced at $1,680 US.

Here are the pertinents -

CALIBER
Miyota 90S5, self-winding, 4 Hz, stop seconds, exposed balance wheel, personalized oscillation weight

FUNCTIONS
Hour, minute, sweeping seconds

CASE MATERIAL

Layered forged carbon case, ceramic bezel, anodized aluminum pinstripe, screw-down titanium crown for improved water resistance

CASEBACK
Open titanium caseback, engraved, sapphire crystal

DIAL
Anodized aluminum, applied numerals filled with Super-Luminova™, anodized aluminum flange, hands and hour markers filled with Super-Luminova™

CRYSTAL
Scratch resistant sapphire, anti-reflective coating on both sides

STRAP
Viton™ & perforated leather hybrid

BUCKLE

Titanium pin buckle

CASE DIMENSIONS
44 mm case diameter
48.5 mm with crown guards
13 mm case thickness
57 mm lug-to-lug

WATER RESISTANCE

100M/330FT/10ATM

Tuesday, February 21, 2023

The Anonimo Militare Chronograph Vintage Green


I don't really think that it would be fair to call what you are about to read a review. A review involves impartial assessment, and an unswayable adherence to sticking strictly to the facts at hand. But my relationship with Anonimo goes back to 2003 when I was a "young-ish" sales person at Tourneau San Francisco 1.0.

Back in those days, Anonimo (at least in as much as we at the store understood it) was comprised of a handful of models, some more desirable than others. These bore the legend "Opera Meccana". The most popular (at least in my experience) was the Millemetri -
Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi
It was available in orange, black, beige, silver, and I believe one limited edition in blue. It was a fairly straightforward watch.
Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi
Another model based on the Millemetri was the Wayfarer, which never met the popularity that I thought certain it would. It featured a second time zone and power reserve indicator. There was also the D-Date which was the same case, and crown configuration, but with the day of the week indicated just under the 6 o'clock marker, and the date just under the 12 o'clock marker. To the best of my knowledge we only sold a Millemetri (black dial) during my tenure. And the less said about the ill-fated Match Racing the better -
Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi
The other hot topic was, of course, the Militare. But curious to relate (and again, my memory might be failing me here), I do not recall that we ever had one in stock. This (to me) was baffling as the US distributor lived just across the Bay Bridge. So ironically, although (to my knowledge) we were the sole sales point for Anonimo in the the San Francisco Bay area, we had a very, very small selection, most of it in less than great condition. The other problem we had in marketing and selling the Anonimo watches that we did actually have in stock was the truly less-than stellar after sales service being provided at Anonimo HQ in Florence. Watches would sit, and sit, and sit for months on end. When they finally arrived back? Human hairs on the dials, straps not fully attached, one instance where the case back had not been fully screwed down and in. It was frustrating. Because the watches themselves were really good looking! The Millemetri, the Militare, and for my money the most under-appreciated model Anonimo came out with at that time, the Centometri -
Courtesy of Dino Zei - From Anonimo to Firenze Orologi
But not unlike that beguiling guy or gal that you dated in university. You remember, they borrowed your car while you were out of town, racked up dozens of parking tickets, and managed to total it when they forgot to put the parking brake on and it rolled down the hill into a ravine. Every once of common sense told you to walk away, but there was just something about him or her that made it impossible for you to imagine even short-term life without them...but I digress. Unfortunately, the blasé approach to after sales service and some truly dubious design choices put paid to Anonimo 1.0. 

Fast forward about 9 years, and Anonimo had changed hands once or twice, and was being led by a Belgium based manager, who if memory serves was something of a big wheel in the diamond trade in Antwerp. Without going into too much detail about the heroes and zeros, the long and the short of it is that the company went into the Italian equivalent of receivership. And Anonimo continued to struggle to establish and maintain any sort of consistent brand identity and product line. The Belgians returned north, and Anonimo stumbled along for another year or so. 

Finally, a new owner came in, and the entire enterprise was moved lock, stock, and mainspring barrel to... Switzerland! And slowly, but surely some order emerged from the chaos. Under the present ownership, a very talented manager/ CEO has emerged, and her name is Carla Duarte. In the past year or two she and her team have steadily revised and improved the collection, synthesizing it down to 3 product families:
Epurato, Nautilo, and the main protagonist in today's post - the Militare. It bears mentioning that the Militare is the only surviving remnant from the earlier iterations of Anonimo.

While it has a long name that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, the MILITARE Chrono Vintage Green is a fairly easy to understand time machine. A bicompax, automatic chronograph (SW 300), the crown is at 12 o'clock with the two pushers right where you would normally expect to find them at 2 and 4. The case itself is reminiscent of its forbears. Cushion shaped, it measures 43.50 mm in diameter, with a height of 14.50 mm. It is crafted of 316L stainless steel with a display back. And this is the one thing that I would change. The Militare is not a "show-pony", and in truth? Neither is the movement and its finishing -
I mean, it's perfectly okay, but not in keeping with the tool watch ethos that the Militare otherwise exudes in excess (in a cool, but not overly cloying way).

The watch itself is very comfortable to wear, easy to read, and the chronograph works exactly as advertised. I am a particular fan of the chronograph push pieces (buttons).
Red to start and stop, black to return to the starting position.

And my review model came with an extra twist - a suede finish strap in addition to the nylon/leather that comes standard.

For me, this is the perfect counter-point to the watch. And it also harkens back to the early days of Anonimo when each watch (for the most part) came with a Kodiak strap. For those of you unfamiliar, allow me to inform you that for one brief moment in time, Anonimo offered the ULTIMATE water-resistant (I say water proof) leather strap ANYWHERE! This was absolutely an artisan type of product and unfortunately one that has been left behind. But to the owner / shot callers of Anonimo - if you are reading this? BRING BACK THE KODIAK STRAPS!

Okay, so again, you can't really call this a review. But what you can call this is an enthusiastic endorsement. If you are into the Italian military style of Panerai, Anonimo (1.0), and others that have come and gone in the past 20 years, this is a wonderful choice. Moreover, I would personally pass on the other 2 options in the Militare Chronograph (black with white sub dials and white with black sub dials). Everyone offers a color way like these - or at least they seem to. My other peeve is that these two models have the words "Militare Vintage" on the dial. It's sooooo vintage, we had to tell you so ; )

At CHF 3,890 this is a bargain. And on the Henki Time "Visceral" scale, it scores a 10+
As a longtime follower of Anonimo, I have been often more disappointed than pleased. But in recent years with the current management team that feeling of disappointment has turned to enthusiastic support! And I look forward to the next offerings coming from Anonimo!

Here are the pertinents:

Case

  • Diameter 43.50 mm, height 14.50 mm, 316L steel, cushion shape
  • Green khaki matte dial
  • Water-resistant to 120 meters, 12 ATM
  • Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
  • Hands with Super-LumiNova®
  • Crown with patented protection system at 12 o'clock
  • Open case back

Movement

  • Swiss Made SW 300, 13 ¼'''' self-winding, personalized Anonimo oscillating weight with a bi-compax DD2035M chronograph module developed exclusively for Anonimo
  • Power reserve 42 hours minimum
  • 49 jewels
  • Frequency 28'800 A/h (4Hz)
  • 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock and central second, small second counter at 3 o'clock

Strap

  • Aged black Mohawk calf leather strap, or Aged maraca Mohawk calf leather strap, or Green khaki fabric strap

Friday, February 17, 2023

Definitely NOT the Last Windup!

Two truly great watches from an American original - Dave Berghold of the Last Wind-Up.
Courtesy of Last Wind-Up

For those of you old enough to remember, way back around the turn of the century 2 guys formed what would become the Montana Watch Company. I do not know, and have not asked why they went their separate ways. Mr. Nashen continued on as the sole proprietor of the Montana Watch Company, Mr. Berghold focused on his business with the Last Wind-Up, and that was that. On a personal basis the newer (minus Berghold) iteration of the Montana Watch Company was a tough one for me to get behind owing to some of the marketing/ partnership choices as well as the use of...
Babar
Okay, maybe not Babar, himself. But elephant. The Montana Watch Company offered (and for all I know still offers) a watch strap made of elephant. And also in the past has supported a group that actively promotes trophy hunting. Longtime readers will note that I view individuals who travel thousands of miles and pay tens of thousands of dollars to shoot at large, slow-moving, endangered animals with about as much respect as frat boys liquored up on Red-Bull and Vodka who organize "Bum Fights" in the 7-Eleven parking lot. 

So needless to say, I was quite enthusiastic to hear about this new Montana based watchmaking project from CC Shermer of Jardur.

Courtesy of Dave Berghold Watches (DB Model 1A)

These are the first two models from Mr. Berghold's new collection, and they are very, very cool! The model pictured above is the DB Model 1A. The dial is enamel/painted from Germany. The Case is German (Ickler) as well. The movement is Swiss, the hands are French.
And this one is...currently sold out. I honestly do not know whether or not more will be made, but I certainly hope so as I was once again late joining the conga line.
Courtesy of Dave Berghold Watches (DB Model 1B)
Model 1B is a bit more of a modern take. Both are hand-winding with a small sub dial at 6 o'clock.

I will reach out to see if Mr. Berghold will favor us with an interview, but for those of you who might have missed it, these are both pretty swell timekeepers.

They are priced (I think) quite fairly at $1,950 US, and available from the Last Wind-Up in Bozeman, as well as from Long Island Watch Company.

With luck more details to come, stay tuned! 

Thursday, February 16, 2023

Marking Time - About My Omegas

If you turned up for news on the latest Blancpain release, I'm afraid you've knocked on the wrong door ; )

Innovation and the "latest and greatest" is always intriguing. But with that said, I often find myself thinking back on what started my interest in watches, or as Robert-Jan at Fratello once said -

"What was the trigger?"

The first watch was this Omega. In truth, I had owned another automatic watch which I got at a pawn shop in Tachikawa, Japan in exchange for my quartz Tag Heuer and 4,000 Yen. But 1996 found Wendy and me living in Turku, Finland. And rooting around a weekly flea market I found a pair of truly neglected Omega wrist watches. The first was in such bad shape that the stall owner refused to let me buy it. The second he only did so reluctantly. Now whether he was really looking out for my "best interests" or he thought he might get more money from a more prosperous customer than an itinerant English teacher is a matter for another time. Long story short, negotiations went back and forth, and I bought it for the princely sum of the US equivalent of $23.00.

My first stop, the same day was to a jeweler in the downtown area who fitted it with a forrest green strap. Needless to say, this was an unusual choice, but my being not only foreign, but an American allowed me a certain amount of freedom to make odd choices. 

Now I wish I had taken a photo at the time. The dial was not merely patinated, it was pretty much ruined. The white/silver finish pretty completely missing in several spots. The second hand fell off twice. And thus began the long rehabilitation process. I took it in for a service. The watchmaker at the shop in Salo (next to the NOKIA center I taught two days a week at) took it in and 100 Finnish Markka later it didn't really seem to have made any difference. And things stayed that way for the next three years until we moved to San Francisco.

Once there, I discovered Geneva Watch Repair in the old Shreve Building. The owner / watchmaker took in my Omega, arranged for a redial (sacrilege to some, but the dial was completely shot), put in a NOS crystal and crown, new gaskets, a full service, and I was back in business!

The folks at Serregin's engraved the case back with 4 important years that marked:

1992 - moved to Japan and met Wendy

1995 - moved to Portugal 

1996 - moved to Finland

2000 - moved back to the US

And I happily wore it, but not as much as before as the watch bug had sunk its teeth deep into my limbic system and dozens of different watches flowed in and out of my possession. But the Omega 30 has remained a constant.

Enter the Seamaster CO-AXIAL

Whether I was ready to admit it to myself or not, I had one fairly strong (semi) regret in terms of watches that have been in my possession.

Back in 1992 I was what could be charitably called "situationally homeless". I was working at Kinko's (remember them?) and sofa-surfing. I had graduated from the University of Oregon and spent the following year and half trying to figure out what to do with my life. To say that things were getting "chancy" would be a gross understatement. I had sold virtually everything I owned, and was down to my Thomas McGuane collection of paperbacks, a handful of CDs, 1 pair of jeans, 3 shirts and a sweater (or 2). 

One Sunday I sat down at the coffee place I would frequent (a cup of coffee was $0.75 with free refills) and as I was leafing through the Sunday Oregonian, I came across two ads in the help wanted section -

TEACH ENGLISH IN JAPAN

Now for the record, I had ZERO teaching experience, and was vaguely acquainted with where Japan was in relation to the Great Northwest. But I did have the one requirement that was needed - an undergraduate degree (Thank you U of O!). I applied for the jobs more on a whim - my job search results up to that point had been mostly for naught. But I was about to be pleasantly surprised - both companies contacted me, I borrowed a suit and tie, drove the 4 hours to Seattle for the first interview, stopped in Portland for the second and 3 days later had a job offer! The only hitch was that I would have to be ready to leave in exactly 60 days. 

The next 50 days were spent working as many shifts and as much overtime as I could manage, I temped here and there and did everything short of selling my plasma to save enough money to pay for my flight and first month of living expenses. With 10 days to go, I found myself short by $65, with no real hopes of raising anything further. But I did have one more thing that had not been sold earlier.

Family heirlooms, at least in my father's family, tended to be discarded fairly willy-nilly. As it happens, I had inherited my Grandmother's Omega. It bears mentioning that this was probably a 28 mm quartz watch. Essentially, too small even by 1992 standards. I had never worn it, and truthfully it never occurred to me to do so. It simply sat in a sock in my dresser drawer. I was 23 and had to make a choice. Hang onto the watch and what seemed like a prolonged spell of itinerant living and minimum wage "copy-jocking", or let it go and roll the dice on a new life in a strange country where I did not have a friend and did not speak the language. 

Spoiler Alert - 

I sold the watch. It netted enough to pay for my air ticket, and I negotiated enough for a camera and 3 rolls of film in addition. The next Monday I took the train to Portland, went to the Japanese consulate to process my visa, and 3 days later I boarded a Northwest flight to Tokyo.

Japan changed my life. I met my wife, Wendy. I found my vocation, teaching. And from there I would go on to live in Portugal, Finland, England, and Scotland before returning to the US.

Nearly 25 years later, I got an email offering me the CO-AXIAL in trade (with cash) for a watch that I felt was not really for me and was trying to sell. And to be honest, I really wanted cash, and the Omega was not really on my radar. I opened the next email in my in-box, and it was a copy of an old letter from my Grandmother that one of our cousins had found. And it included a picture of her with me, her wearing the Omega I had sold so many years before, that had made it possible for me to really start my life. Sometimes fate whispers, but in this case it shouted. I accepted the offer for the Omega (with cash) and didn't look back. Sometimes you have accept that the universe, however flawed, tends to reveal itself as it is meant to be ; )


Enjoy your watches -

Tuesday, February 14, 2023

The BR 05 SKELETON GOLDEN

From Bell & Ross -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross
It is available on an integrated stainless steel bracelet (above), or on an integrated rubber strap (below) -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross
And I have to be honest, the browns strap version is not just speaking to me, it's screaming! A very, very cool combination.

The movement is skeletonized and the dial transparent (save for the indices and logo).

The BR 05 SKELETON GOLDEN is only available as a pre-order item with deliveries anticipated for early March. The asking price is $7,100.

More details can be found here -

                              BR 05 SKELETON GOLDEN

Coming Soonish...

As some of you reading this will already know, yours truly with the immeasurable help of the Paajanen family, Dan Mason, Carla Duarte, and Michel Ditisheim put out a small book on the history of the Vulcain Cricket's relationship with the Presidents of the United States. It was put out in partnership with Vulcain and provided free of charge to the general public. There was always a plan to put out a revised and updated book, and I am happy to say that this plan is still in action.

With that said, I also had to make the hard choice to pull the original from circulation without notice. For anyone out there who wanted one, I am sorry. But I also wanted to shed at least a little light on what can at best be called chicanery, and perhaps more honestly as the mischief of weasels.  And yes, the weasels, or in this case the belettes know who they are.

So with that said, I am pleased to relay that the extra time has afforded me the opportunity to get more original photos, documentation, etc. 

So for those who supported the original version, a big thank you and you can count on an update when we are ready to go. Should be a few more months - AFTER the spring watch shows.

Until then, enjoy your watches!



 

Saturday, February 11, 2023

The Augsburg Polar 42 and Aachen Polar 42

From Laco -

Courtesy of Laco
Laco announced the release of these two new white dialed fliegers yesterday.  Above is the Augsburg Polar 42.  It is equipped with either a Laco 25 or Laco 31 movement. I did try a quick dive (very quick, didn't even get my fingers damp) to try and ascertain just what exactly these movements were. So apologies in advance, but there we are.

Below is the Aachen Polar 42 -

Courtesy of Laco

Limited to 250 pieces of each version, these "Polar Pilots" are priced at:

€ 440,00

Friday, February 10, 2023

The New Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum
The case is of stainless steel, and measures 41.80mm.
                                                            Courtesy of Brellum
The movement is listed as the BR-754 GMT which is based on the Valjoux 7754.

This one is limited to 23 pieces total, so if it's in your wheelhouse, I suggest you don't dawdle ; )

Price (incl. VAT and shipping worldwide) approx. USD3450 / £3120 / €3520 / CHF 3150.-

Here are the pertinents -

Caliber 
BRELLUM BR-754 GMT Automatic Chronometer (Valjoux 7754 base) 
Certification Officially Chronometer certified (COSC) 

Decoration 
Perlage, Geneva stripes, blue screws, Brellum Pilot 4N coated rotor 

Movement
Automatic 28'800 A/h, 25 jewels, 46 hours power reserve; Incabloc, Glucydur Balance, Nivarox Alloy Hairspring typ Anachron 

Functions 
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date window, GMT hand, 12 hours chronograph, stop-second 

Case 
Stainless Steel 316L, DIN 1.4435, Diameter 41.80mm, thickness: 11.70mm without crystals, 15.90mm total 

Crystal 
Box sapphire crystal on top and back with anti-reflection coating (inside) 

Dial 
Multi-level dial, Silver/white opaline, satined indices with Super-Luminova 

Hands 
Satined with Super-Luminova material 
Water resistance 
100m, 10ATM, 100% tested 

Case back 
exhibition stainless steel case back, with sapphire crystal and antireflection coating inside, numbered from 01/23 to 23/23 

Strap 
Delivered with: 1 x black Nubuck Pilot strap with stainless steel deployment buckle and 1 x stainless steel bracelet and tools for sizing

Thursday, February 9, 2023

Just Under The Radar - the Méraud Antigua

Having sat out most of the last year, I hope that I can be forgiven for missing a few shots across the bow in terms of new releases. This one is from a small and "newish" brand based in Ghent,Belgium. This is the Antigua, from Méraud.
Courtesy of Méraud 

And while Belgium is a small country, it has provided the world at large with quite a lot -
Tintin and Snowy © Hergé 

Perhaps the most famous reporter never to win a Pulitzer, Tintin.


A former volunteer nurse and struggling chorus girl.
Courtesy of Wikipedia
And newspaper delivery boy who many feared had missed his true calling.

But back to the Antigua -
Courtesy of Méraud 
In a world of countless black-dialed micro brand dive watches, this is a bit special.

Limited to 100 pieces, this chronograph measures 40 mm in diameter and houses what Méraud describes as a "restored" Landeron 248 under the hood. Now I am (despite my cynical nature) a romantic. Having owned a few "modern" watches with restored Landeron movements, I can say that there may be the potential for occasional quirks. In my case it was a hesitation in the main chronograph hand. But in fairness, that could happen with a brand new Valjoux. More to the point, if the descriptions are anything to go on, Méraud has been working on this release for some time, so with luck it should be a winner.

The Méraud Antigua weighs in at a reasonable $1,922.00 (US$). This is a pre-order item, so you 
will need to be patient as delivery is projected for 
September.

The Méraud Antigua will be available in two flavors:
Courtesy of Méraud

"Soft Sand"

Courtesy of Méraud

"Miho Black"

For more information and ordering details, visit Méraud's website -