Laco Absolute

Laco brought in Dietrich Lubs to lend his aesthetic -

Courtesy of Laco

Those of you regular readers know that I have a real soft spot for Bauhaus style, and this new release from Laco is pretty intriguing!

Here are the specifics -

Movement:  Automatic movement Miyota 9015

Case:  Matt stainless steel case, flexible lugs, sapphire crystal, 5 ATM, case diameter 39 mm, closed case back

Dial:  White with black and blue printing

Hands:  Hour and minute hand black, second hand blue

Strap:  Robust rubber band in black with folded buckle

Extra:  Black watch box

Also available in black -

Courtesy of Laco

https://shop.laco.de

What's Vincent working on?

Vincent Perriard was nice enough to forward this to me - a bit of a tease, but BaselWorld is approximately 2 months away, so consider this an "amuse bouche" -


http://www.hytwatches.com/

I will be on hand to give you the specifics following the reveal - stay tuned!

Wrapping up the Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour

I wanted to allow a few days for those of you out there reveling in the holiday spirits to, well, quit reveling so that I could give the summary report of the C9 Harrison Jumping Hour.

Perhaps one of the most striking - and for me appealing factors of this watch is the dial and the face.  The dial is a beautiful execution with the pattern on the interior with the minute indication divided by a silver-toned ring.  The ring then dips downward at 12 o'clock to create a display window for the hour indication.  Overall, a very nice balance, lending texture and depth of field.

The use of a blue hour hand was also a very well-considered choice.  It lends just enough differentiation without sticking out like a sore thumb.

As I have said earlier in this review, the finish on this Christopher Ward offering is really of a different class than some of their lower-priced models.  This is understandable - a more expensive watch would lead you to expect a higher price tag.  But I think that is also a case where you can really see where the extra money went.  It is really smooth case and crown, and the deployment clasp functions smoothly without a hiccup.

The decision to use an actual alligator strap as opposed to an embossed calf strap was also a good choice.   It adds the right "feel" for this watch.  After fifteen days the leather is nice and comfortable, and a real pleasure to wear.

Comfort wise, the C9 Jumping Hour is really a joy to have on the wrist.  It is substantial without being overwhelming.  It is 43 mm which is right at the cusp of the outer limits for a dress watch, but because of its classic design, and a rather subdued bezel, this size seems to be "just right".

The timekeeping has been great.  I did finally have it "timed" by a watchmaker using "electronic methods" ; )  and the rate was + 6 seconds!  I really got used to the Jumping Hour function, and now I find myself slightly confused by traditional three handed set-ups!  I can honestly say that that once you get used to the orientation, it really becomes second nature!

I have to say at $1,585 the C9 Harrison Jumping hour is priced very well.  And it creates an opportunity for Christopher Ward to offer something of a different class for those who want something unique, not just the latest version of a diver, a pilot's watch, etc.  And to be clear, there is nothing wrong with those choices either - but this is something else - something not for everyone - and I think that should be appreciated.  Whether or not Christopher Ward should focus more on watches at this level, diversify even further, who will win the European Championship this summer... all of these topics will be discussed over numerous cups of coffee, glasses of beer and the always available sausages in Basel by yours' truly and the usual suspects in a little more than two months' time!

Olivier Bronze Diver

Well, just down the road from me her in Santa Barbara,  Olivier Watches has set-up shop in Redondo Beach.  This is their Bronze Dive watch -

Courtesy of Olivier Watches

Here are the details straight from Olivier -

Bronze is a “live” alloy, and over time will darken as it develops a natural patina. This patina is part of what makes bronze such a great alloy for nautical applications, and is what makes bronze such a unique material to use for watches; each watch will develop its own unique patina based on the different kinds of environment and conditions the owner exposes it to truly making the watch yours.

Courtesy of Olivier

Specifications:
Case: CuSn8 Marine Grade Bronze
Case Diameter: Ø 45 mm – 48mm Lug-to-lug length
Case-back: 316L stainless steel with engraved design and unique serial number
Thickness: 15.5 mm
Lug width: 24 mm
Crown: 8mm x 4mm Signed stainless steel screw-down crown.
Crystal: Sapphire – 4 mm thick – AR coated inside
Water resistance: 500m / 50atm / 1650ft
Automatic Helium Escape Valve @ 9 o’clock position
Lume: Multi-layer Swiss SuperLuminova C3 application on dial, hands and bezel marker

Courtesy of Olivier

120 Click uni-directional bezel
Bezel 1: Solid bronze 120 click bezel with engraved markers and lumed 12 marker
Bezel 2: Solid bronze 120 click bezel with black engraved inlay, white markers and lumed 12 marker
[Both bezels are included and are user replaceable]

Strap: 24mm Rubber diving strap
Movement: 25 Jewel Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic – power reserve 40 hr.

These watches are available for pre-order now with a $250 deposit.

http://olivierwatches.com

BOXING DAY

Happy Boxing Day to you all!  And to help put you in the mood for the New Year's Countdown ...

Courtesy of Vulcain

Not sure if this one is still available, but it has always been one of my favorites!  This is the Concorde from Vulcain.

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

A NEW TITLE IN THE 'PATRIZZI POCKET EXPERTS' SERIES: 

GIRARD-PERREGAUX WW.TC

Passion. The sentiment expressed by Osvaldo Patrizzi when he talks of his watchmaking collection, the timepieces that he appraises or the works that he publishes, including the famous Patrizzi Pocket Expert series. This pocket-sized collection aims to offer collectors a summary and an exhaustive overview of the most important pieces in watchmaking.

After the Tourbillon with Gold Bridges, Osvaldo Patrizzi and his team of experts turned to another Girard-Perregaux icon, the ww.tc (world-wide time control) which has made its name as an essential reference among watches that display world times. The book also recounts the invention of universal time from Copernicus' ingenious heliocentric system to the universal standardisation of time.

Patrizzi Pocket Expert ww.tc is available in English/French and may be ordered online at http://www.opatrizzi.com  

Proud uncle

Back in my DOXA days, I had the opportunity to work on some fun and interesting projects.  Perhaps the high mark for me was the Project AWARE.  It was my first real opportunity to work with a partner and create something new -

That was back in 2008.

Later, in 2009 I was walking through the Tourneau store in Boston, and while looking at the selections one of the sales people grabbed my wrist and said - "That's the Project AWARE!"  And then grabbed one of the copies of Watch Time, and pointed out the article - a belated thank you to Norma!

And now time has moved on, I have moved on - but I heard the news that there was now a successor to the original Project AWARE -

Courtesy of DOXA

And like a proud uncle, I smile at my new "nephew", and wish him a long and healthy life!  Best of luck to DOXA and Project AWARE!

Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour - some details

As we are nearly through the second week, it seemed like a good time to give (as they say in dragnet) just the facts - and some better pictures!

Courtesy of Christopher Ward

Features

1. > ETA 2824-2 with modified
   Jumping Hour
   Complication JJ001
2. > Swiss-made
3. > Limited Edition of 200 pieces
4. > 25 jewels
5. > Automatic

Courtesy of Christopher Ward

1. > Galvanic guilloche dial with JH aperture
2. > 43mm hand-finished case

Courtesy of Christopher Ward

1. > Louisiana alligator strap
2. > Deployment clasp
3. > Exhibition window
1. > Diameter: 43mm
2. > Height: 13mm
3. > Weight: 103g
4. > Calibre: ETA 2824-2 - Mod - JJ01
5. > Strap: Leather
3. 
   
4. Oh, and we are still running very, very well.  I got a chance to have a watchmaker put it through its paces on the timer -
5. + 6 seconds.  Not too shabby!
6. 
   
7. 
   
1. > Vibrations: 28,800 per hour

Christophe Claret à Monaco

This just in from Christophe Claret

Courtesy of Christophe Claret

On December 8th and 9th 2011 in Monte-Carlo's Hôtel de Paris, Christophe Claretpresented a 21 Blackjack watch, the first in a 21-piece limited edition bearing the Casino de Monte-Carlo logo and featuring a checkered dial inspired by the flag of the Principality of Monaco.

Courtesy of Chritophe Claret

This model is a version derived from the one-of-a-kind creation set with baguette-cut diamonds and rubies, bearing the Casino de Monte-Carlo logo, which served as first prize in the annual tournament organized by the famous establishment.

Courtesy of Christophe Claret

Maurice De Mauriac and the number 8

Bill Lee - otherwise known as "Spaceman" was a pitcher for the Boston Red Sox in the 70s.  To say he was a bit of an eccentric might be a tad bit of an understatement.  But he had a theory about Yaztremski's long career - the number 8.

His theory being that Yaz would lie on his side, the number 8 would then take on the form of infinity - thus recharging the guy's "battery".  It's a theory...

Courtesy of Maurice De Mauriac

The folks at Maurice De Mauriac also believe the number 8 - (or HACHI as the Japanese refer to it) can be a lucky number as well.

Courtesy of Maurice De Mauriac

So here's to the number 8 - and a long life to you!

Courtesy of Maurice De Mauriac

Christopher Ward - finishing work

Having worn a Christopher Ward watch in a previous 15 day review, I can say that it was a pretty-well finished watch, and represented fair value for the money.

The Harrison Jumping Hour is of a completely different class!  The finishing work on this is on a par with anything I have seen (and worn) recently.  Everything, smooth, polished and shiny! And no sharp edges or spots.

From the back laser etching, to the detail on the rotor, the attention paid to each detail is really evident.
In a time where nearly everyone is using a display back, but almost nobody takes the time to make it really visually appealing, it is wonderful to see something like this!  Well done!

And in case you were curious, the timing has been perfect so far.  Please bear in mind that being absent a second hand it is challenging to be completely precise in rates without outside electronic assistance, but it appears to be bang on time each morning when I put it on.  More to come - stay tuned!

Jaeger-LeCoultre's new boutique - in Milan

December 15th, via Montenapoleone 1 saw the opening of JLC's newest boutique in Milan.

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre

And as a self-professed Serie A fanatic, I would have LOVED to attend!  Several dignitaries from AC Milan's past and present were in attendance.  Had Paolo Maldini been there, I would have booked the Alitalia flight myself!

The HL2.2 - the Most Innovative Watch Award

Courtesy of Hautlence

The HAUTLENCE HL2.2 was the winner of the the Starhill Gallery's Most Innovative Watch Award 2011 during at the “A Journey Through Time” event in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia from December 1^st to December 10^th

Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour - day 5

I've now enjoyed (REALLY enjoyed) the past 5 days with the Harrison Jumping Hour.
The time keeping has been very good, and I am becoming more accustomed to the jumping hour time orientation.

But what has really impressed me the past few days is the wonderful strap that the folks at CW decided to use for this one -

A really well-executed brown alligator with contrasting white stitching.

And the inside is just as nice as the "outer layer" -

Very comfortable, and not the least bit stiff.  It is starting to wear very comfortably and has improved day by day.

And for you "quick-change" artists out there -

Quick release spring bars ensure a smooth (and tool-scratch free) strap change!

More to come - stay tuned!

The Reverso - seeing RED!

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre

Harkening back to another time, Jaeger-LeCoultre announced the reintroduction of one of the most iconic Reverso's of the past -

Courtesy of Jaeger Le-Coultre

This is Jaeger-LeCoultre's Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge, coming soon to a boutique near you!

Mr. Ice

Courtesy of Ladoire

Here's the latest - straight from Ladoire -

Ladoire presents Mr Ice
The next chapter in the Black Widow collection

The dial architecture, open-worked to reveal the sophisticated movement beneath, is multilayered and delineates three offset zones – hours, minutes and seconds – mounted on an innovative system of ceramic micro ball bearings.
Hours and minutes are indicated by rotating discs on the lower half of the dial, while 20-second intervals are indicated by a small three-handed disk at 3 o'clock. This triumvirate of discs forms the Ladoire signature HMS Planetary complication.
The large, central hand displays a second time zone – adjusted via the black DLC quickset push-button on the case band at 2 o'clock. This feature is of particular benefit to frequent travelers and those with family and friends around the world.
Six of the second-time zones are explicitly indicated between 8 o’clock to 1 o’clock, on indices around the dial, while engraved on the GMT wheel is Ladoire’s signature spider web – or possibly the Black Widow’s calling card to boast that she has gotten exactly what she wanted.

The ensemble of dial features have received black, silvered or fresh white finishes, the latter two reminding us of the cool, steely operator that Mr Ice most definitely is.

You can own a Cousteau's DOXA SUB!

Here's your chance to own Jean-Michel Cousteau's DOXA SUB!!!
http://www.biddingforgood.com/auction/item/Item.action?id=144622656

This auction benefits Ocean Futures, based here in my hometown of Santa Barbara.

Shiva the transformer

With all of the buzz - (some informed, most not) about the Swatch group and the 30% planned reduction coming, perhaps it is time for us all to take stock.  Many are crying foul, that this will single-handedly destroy the Swiss watch industry.  Let's keep in mind that the Swiss watch industry is very, very different than it was 20 years ago.  Many have come and gone and come again.  Don't get me wrong, if the Swatch group is able to squeeze this one through, there are going to be a lot of unemployed people - but not only in Switzerland.   Mr. H assures everyone that this is for the good of the industry as a whole, etc., that they are doing this to make the other companies become more self-reliant, etc.

I call bullshit.

Yes, I said it.

When we really talk about what is happening, about to happen, will happen - let's face some realities.  Swatch is not in the business of doing good for others.  By the way, that doesn't make them bad people.  But ultimately, this has already started to transform the industry.  The easy guess is that this is intended to thin out the heard - a sort of horological eugenics.  Possibly true.  Everyone in the mainstream is focussing primarily on movements - but think about it at an even more "granular" level - springs.  Every movement manufacturer/assembler needs GOOD springs - and well, it would seem that here we have another monopoly.  And it is interesting that this places Swatch in a position to play GOD on some level - of course some companies will be able to get them - and it seems that the others can (to quote my niece) - suck it.

How much is enough?  How much money, how much control, how much influence - and not just over people's ability to do business, but their employees jobs, and lives?  When is enough going to be enough?

Chronometers.org

Very pleased with the progress of Chronometers.org - my new online watch buyer's guide -

www.chronometers.org

We are still working on "cleaning" up and populating the site.  We have more brands joining and hope to be at 75 brands by the end of the year.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Watch of the Year “Viennatime” and “Munichtime” 2011

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Grande Reverso Lady Ultra-Thin won first place in both VIenna and Munich.

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre 

The Memovox Tribute Deep Sea claimed 3rd Place in the “Sport Watches” category in Munich.

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoutre

And claiming 2nd Place in Vienna and 3rd Place in Munich in the “Small Complications” category was the Master Ultra-Thin Moon.

Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour - 2 days in

So I've had a few days to get acquainted with the Jumping Hour and it has been a fun 48 hours!  I've worn several single-handed watches, but this is the first time I've worn a "jumping hour" watch and I must say it is enjoyable - and incredibly easy to read.  


Today's word is legibility.  The dial of the C9 Harrison Jumping Hour is so well laid out and clear.  It is rally a joy to look at, and after a few days, it is pretty much second nature to gauge the time.  The indices are clear and very well executed, and the minute increments are a real blessing as opposed to many others that simply indicate five minute blocks allowing you to give your best estimate.  


The hour indicator is clear and bold and really works well with the minute hand.


More to come -

15 Days with Christopher Ward

Courtesy of Christopher Ward

It's that time again!  Tomorrow I start 15 days with Christopher Ward's C9 Harrison Jumping Hour  

We kick-off tomorrow, stay tuned!

Graham's new friend - Keith Flint

Courtesy of Graham

Incendiary, eccentric, disruptive, GRAHAM is pleased to introduce its new friend, Keith Flint, front man of The Prodigy group and endurance motorbike racer. 

Courtesy of Graham

Girard-Perregaux & the Andrea Bocelli Foundation

Andrea Bocelli Foundation

Launches with 2011 Benefit Gala

Featuring Special Performances by Andrea Bocelli, David Foster, Heather Headley and Anna Maria Martinez

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

Los Angeles, California (December 5, 2011) – Girard-Perregaux, iconic luxury Swiss watch brand, is proud to partner up with Andrea Bocelli, the world’s highest selling solo artist in the history of classical music, in the launch of his new foundation, the Andrea Bocelli Foundation, with a 2011 Benefit Gala on December 9^th.

The foundation will be launched at a fundraising event produced by Studiomusica and Jo Champa presented by the Grammy Museum Foundation and will be held at the Beverly Hilton Hotel in Los Angeles and will seek to raise funds and awareness for its efforts to fight poverty around the world and to help people overcome barriers caused by illness, discomfort or disability.

“We are very proud and excited to join forces with Andrea Bocelli in the launch of his new foundation”, says CEO of Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard) Michele Sofisti. “His accomplishments as an artist and philanthropist are an inspiration to all of us and we are happy to support him in this new pursuit”.

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

“I feel very strongly about helping people make the most of the world that we live in”, says Andrea Bocelli. “I was born with poor eyesight and became completely blind at the age of twelve. Overcoming blindness and dealing with its consequences has taught me about the nature of externally imposed limits, and has encouraged me to think about how to help and support others facing barriers in their lives. Every human being has the right to be happy, fulfilled and to live a flourishing and meaningful life. I want to help those who face barriers in achieving their life’s potential”.

The Gala will feature a dinner and performances by Andrea Bocelli himself as well as David Foster, Heather Headley and Anna Maria Martinez. 

This is GRIEB & BENZINGER's latest - the  BLUE OCEAN! 

Courtesy of GRIEB & BENZINGER

This is a skeletonized monopusher chronograph based on a column wheel chronograph movement from 1926.  It is housed in a solid platinum case. GRIEB & BENZINGER has brought this historical movement life.

new Pilot 39H from ARCHIMEDE

Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE

This is ARHCHIMEDE's newest collection - the Pilot 39H

Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE

This pilot's watch is slightly smaller, with a  39mm case.
The H stands for "historic", because the dial has no logo, name, etc. or date.   The blue hands are a tribute to the characteristic design of vintage pilot's watches.


The ETA 2824 is visible through the display case back. The case is brushed stainless steel with a sapphire crystal, and is water resistant to 50m. 

Courtesy of ARCHIMEDE

The blue hands with the large luminous surface contrast pleasantly with the black pilots dial. The leather strap with a single rivet is offered in black, light brown and dark brown and a stainless steel bracelet is also available.




The ARCHIMEDE Pilot 39H is available direct from ARCHIMEDE for
US customerswww.archimede-uhren.de/US/Pilot-39H.htm for US$ 665 (leather strap) and US$ 835 (steel bracelet), including shipping and all US duties and for
International customerswww.archimede-uhren.de/EN/Pilot-39H.htm for Eur 435 (leather strap) and Eur 555 (steel bracelet), plus shipping costs.

Glowing Urushi

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

Taking cues from outside the traditional watch making world, Angular Momentum has come up with a fantastic new way to light the night.

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

This glowing power is achieved through a  balanced mixture of organic "Blue Luminous Sulfate", "Titanium White" and "Nashiji Urushi", the transparent Urushi lacquer produced in Japan from the sap of very old tree branches.

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

The application process of Glowing Urushi is done one layer at a time.  This is the same technique as with normal Urushi but in this case, the artist uses a spatula instead of a brush.  

Courtesy of Angular Momentum

The dials are put in the "Furô" with a constant temperature of 25°C and humidity of 75% upside down which allows the heavy sulfates to "sink" to the surface. While the Email Lumineuse can only be applied on horizontal surfaces, the Glowing Urushi can be applied also on vertical and round surfaces.

Oh yeah - there is actually a watch under this amazing dial!

A polished three-piece case made of 1.4435NcU Staybrite steel.  The dial is 38.00 mm, protected by a double curved sapphire crystal.  Powered by an historical 1960 new-old stock hand-winding movement - in this case an AS caliber 1703, 18‘000a/H, 21 rubies, with a power reserve of 49 hours. 1.20 gr dial of 15 layers of Glowing Urushi with Clou de Paris Guilloche.

www.angularmomentum.com