When You Go To The Well One Too Many Times

Now in fairness, I will be the first to admit that I am biased. I did work indirectly for DOXA (Via Synchron) for three years. I was an active participant in two (one very notable) efforts to diversify the DOXA collection in North America beyond the SUB. In fairness, the DECO was pretty popular. A flieger was mooted, but removed from the site after only a week. The less said about the ill-fated Ultra Speed the better, that was a vanity project that simply did not pan out. I would be fair to say that, at least 15 years ago, the DOXA buying public had spoken, and they only wanted the SUB.

Courtesy of DOXA

Now back then, there were some sorta' clumsy efforts at branching into dive watches styled and sized for women. One squib was the Coralline. If memory serves it utilized NOS cases and was more of a miss than a hit. But it is also important, gentle reader, to bear in mind that those of us trying to sell DOXAs direct (Synchron) between 2000 - 2018 did so without the benefit of the largesse of the owners providing marketing monies or assistance. The partnerships with Project AWARE (via PADI), the Cousteaus via Ocean Futures Society in Santa Barbara -

When I bumped into Mr. Cousteau in downtown Santa Barbara

We did that on our own.

We had this absolutely crazy idea that relationships with our partners did not necessarily have to be transactional.

But it seems I've veered off topic. Let's right the ship! Today's topic is the DOXA SUB 200T Diamonds. I mean, c'mon! People love the DOXA SUB, and everyone loves diamonds...

Courtesy of DOXA

Now in fairness to the brain trust in Biel/Bienne - they have managed to expand their retail network beyond Watches of Switzerland. Although I will say it was a bit odd to see the DOXA booth at the Wind-Up NYC show not being manned by actual DOXA (or even DOXA adjacent) employees, but rather, they farmed it out to a third party - Analog Shift...

But again, back to the matter at hand -

Courtesy of DOXA

Now as far as jewel set watches go, if this is in your wheelhouse, then by all means on you go!
But this is where the DOXA strategy, in truth, leaves me somewhat baffled. In the (I believe) 5 years since the owning family took back the rights to the SUB, that is ALL that they have put forward. And in fairness, if that is the strategy, and the strategy is working - then more power to them. But with that said, it is sort of tragically ironic that if this is the "new" strategy? It was always the strategy of Synchron. 

Courtesy of DOXA

The SUB 200T Diamonds is available in 7 different colors. It is priced at $9,400 USD.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

Swiss mechanical automatic, self-winding
Power reserve 38 hours
Frequency 28,800 vph (4.0 Hz)
Decorated by DOXA

CASE

Stainless steel case
Diameter 39.00 mm x 41.50 mm
Height 10.70 mm
Screw-down crown
Water resistance 20 ATM / 200 meters / 656 feet
Stainless steel, screw down case back

INDICATIONS

Hours, minutes, seconds
Date

FEATURES

Sapphire crystal
Unidirectional rotating bezel

DIAMONDS SETTING BEZEL

107 white diamonds – round / VS 1.30mm-1.50mm / F color
13 black diamonds – round / VS 1.30mm-1.50mm / F color

BRACELET / STRAP

Stainless steel bracelet "Beads of Rice", folding clasp with ratcheting wetsuit extension
Lug width 18.00 mm

DIAL

Mother of pearl dial

When Black Lung is a Good Thing

50 years is a long time.  And one of the companies that aided my journey through watch land has a very special birthday this year for their flagship model, the 300 Professional.

While just about anyone you ask will be familiar with the DOXA and its "orangeness", what many people may not be aware of is the extent to which DOXA (along with a tiny little company in Geneva) helped really bring the idea of a "co-branded" watch to life.  

And in the spirit of that notion, DOXA has brought back one of the most sought after models from it's past, the so-called Black Lung -

Courtesy of DOXA

Here are the pertinents -

Limited Edition
Limited to ONLY 300 pieces worldwide, made and
assembled by hand in Switzerland. No serial number reservation,
first come first serve, for delivery in November 2017
Case
case size: 42.5mm
crown: 6.50mm
Dial: 25.50mm
case height: 12.40mm
bracelet: separate bead of rice,
integrated wetsuit extension,
tapers from 22.00/20.00mm
Crystal
Double bubble Sapphire crystal
(vintage plexi crystal shape)
Caseback
Solid stainless steel, screw down case back. Engraved
with limited edition number xxx/300
Bezel
Unidirectional, constructed of solid stainless steel. US Navy
maximum no decompression limit times in feet (engraved).
Movement
Officially Certified COSC ETA 2824-2 movement,
decorated by DOXA.
Anti-Shock
Incabloc shock protection
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, quick-set date at 3 o'clock
Hands
Replica of the original 1967 SUB hands, Superluminova filled, featuring the iconic dwarf hour hand.
Bracelet
The bracelet does have a slight taper like the original from 20mm + flared lugs (24mm) to 20mm buckle
Presentation
DOXA presentation box
Accessories
High quality hardened steel dual screwdriver/bracelet removal tool
Warranty
DOXA’s 2 year limited warranty
Operating Manual
Included

The Ninth Watch Anniversary You Need To Know in 2017

Bless Hodinkee!  I can only assume DOXA is neither esoteric enough, or...

At any rate, perhaps an even more important birthday than the Sea-Dweller or F.P. Journe's first watch ever might be the 50th anniversary of the DOXA SUB.  So in case you hadn't seen it, or were laboring under the illusion that there were only eight significant watch anniversaries this year, allow me to acquaint you with the 50th anniversary model of the DOXA SUB 300 Professional -

Courtesy of DOXA

It's a beauty!

A Favorite DOXA

So here's a question I get a lot - what's your favorite DOXA?  Now having worked for them, it goes without saying that I have some sentimental favorites.  But one that came out not too long ago is rapidly becoming a favorite -

Courtesy of DOXA

This is the T-Graph, or more precisely the SUB 300T-Graph Professional.

Proud uncle

Back in my DOXA days, I had the opportunity to work on some fun and interesting projects.  Perhaps the high mark for me was the Project AWARE.  It was my first real opportunity to work with a partner and create something new -

That was back in 2008.

Later, in 2009 I was walking through the Tourneau store in Boston, and while looking at the selections one of the sales people grabbed my wrist and said - "That's the Project AWARE!"  And then grabbed one of the copies of Watch Time, and pointed out the article - a belated thank you to Norma!

And now time has moved on, I have moved on - but I heard the news that there was now a successor to the original Project AWARE -

Courtesy of DOXA

And like a proud uncle, I smile at my new "nephew", and wish him a long and healthy life!  Best of luck to DOXA and Project AWARE!

DOXA SUB 4000T Sapphire

Courtesy of DOXA

In celebration of the 10 year anniversary of the reintroduction of the DOXA SUB,
DOXA is releasing something very special - the 4000T - but with a Sapphire
bezel!

Here are the specs from DOXA -

Diameter 47.00mm including crown protection
Diameter excluding the crown protection is 44.00mm
Lug width 22.00mm
Lug to lug 48.00mm
Height 16.00mm
Bezel diameter 40.80mm
Crown diameter 6.50mm
Diameter 47.00mm including crown protection
Movement: ETA 2897 Top grade

Courtesy of DOXA

This is a very limited edition - so you've been warned!


www.doxawatches.com

The SUB 600T-Graph

I woke up this morning thinking about my pals at DOXA.  The SUB 600T-Graph has proven to be one of the most sought-after watches ever offered.  What always fascinated me about this watch was its unrivaled ability to instill a sense of near obsessive-compulsive behavior in even the most disciplined DOXAholic.  In fact, from 2008 until it recently sold out, it was the one watch that really drew in people who never had or even thought of a DOXA watch before.

The original SUB 200T-Graph represented a true breakthrough for DOXA.  In essence, the design team found a way to take a chronograph and make it waterproof.  This was down to tireless research and development 1970s style.  Think about this for a moment, no CAD drawings, etc (insert images of guys with slide-rules and protractors). These days we take a lot of things for granted in terms of design, development and technology.  40 years ago, the folks at DOXA were able to create a chronograph pusher system with special gaskets that kept the watch dry, and the water out.   I realize that nowadays we see all kinds of dive watches that can do everything from tell the time, to make a double espresso!  Okay, it hasn't gone that far, but I think we can all agree that there have been tremendous developments and advances since the T-Graph made its debut in 1970.

This is the SUB 600T-Graph 40th Anniversary - it was released to coincide with the 40th Anniversary of the DOXA SUB (1967), it was preceded by the 2005 T-Graph which was a 3 register chronograph.

Both versions were limited to 250 pieces in each series.  The 2005 version has taken on a bit of cult status and I could not tell you how many times an intrepid customer would call, write, sometimes even ask me in person when they found out who I worked for and ask me something along the lines of:
"Are you sure you don't have maybe one more hiding in the factory?"

I would smile understandingly and say something to the effect of no, sorry...

"It doesn't have to be perfect - it could be a used one - I guess I should have bought one when I had the chance.  Could you double-check?"

www.doxawatches.com

The Right Stuff

The Right Stuff

As today is July 20th, I woke up with astronauts (and even cosmonauts) on the brain.  41 years ago man first landed on the moon - and better yet made it back in one piece!

My aunt still remembers a Saturday in the late 1960's,  when her shopping companion grabbed the future Senator from Ohio in a Columbus department store, and holding him in a near death grip exclaimed - "You're John Glenn!" Without loosing any of his composure despite being clutched by a very excited housewife, he replied "I know lady, and who are you?"

John Glenn did not go to the moon of course, but he always epitomized the excitement of the space race.  The captain of Friendship 7 was not even the first man in space, his orbit followed the earlier exploits of Gagarin and Titov, but his flight in 1962 captured the imagination of the world.

Like John Glenn, I do not suppose that this Speedmaster visited the moon either, but what I can tell you with certainty was that it was manufactured in 1969 - the same year that Apollo 11 landed on the moon.


Growing up, I imagined we'd be having weekend getaways to the moon, or even Mars by now.  Perhaps in another 40 years.

What watch would Jacques Cousteau wear?

What watch would Jacques Cousteau have worn?





There are a lot of dive watches out there that probably spring to mind. But in this particular instance I can say with all certainty that not only would JYC have worn this watch - in fact he did!




I remember the excitement in the DOXA office when my boss Rick Marei told us the news. Bruno Cappello kindly let us have his watch for DOXA's private collection. Bruno was a member of the Calypso's crew back in the 80s and worked with JLC and Mr. Falco. And now with Rick's help, I can share the story behind it. The story to follow is Mr. Cappello's with minor edits from me.








My time with the Cousteau team and life on the Calypso

My friend Michel told me that he was going to try out as a Cousteau team diver.
I told him if you can do it, so can I. Dan Phan and I were later welcomed as the newest divers on the team.

My first mission for the Cousteau team was aboard the Calypso and we went to film the USS Monitor. I recall meeting Harold Edgerton – or "Papa Flash" as Jacques Cousteau called him.

Albert Falco, Jacques Cousteau and I were going over some pre-dive items, just the three of us.

Falco asked if I had a reliable dive watch. I was a caught a bit off-guard, not sure what to say. Then Mr. Falco uttered a phrase I have always remembered:

“A decent man must have a decent watch.”

And then it happened - Jacques Cousteau handed me his very own DOXA Sharkhunter – he gave his watch to ME! And from that moment on I truly felt as though I were a part of the Cousteau team!

It turned out to be a night dive by the time we got there. We all grouped at the surface and held on to each others tanks. It was like a human grape vine going down to the Monitor. I saw the biggest shark that I've ever seen that day.
I was relieved to know that I was not the only one who saw the shark, Marc and Raymond saw it as well. Maybe the Sharkhunter was an omen. This proved to be a very memorable dive as we continued to investigate the USS Monitor, and the rest, as they say – is history!

My duties aboard The Calypso were varied and numerous. Perhaps my favorite chore was loading the film into the cameras as the film cabin was the only place on The Calypso that was air-conditioned! In addition to this I filled the divers’ tanks before the dives. During the dives I held the lights for the cameramen - usually either Bernard or Raymond. I helped Bob as often as possible with the helicopter maintenance. I was usually in the water to help place "Denise" (the SP350) into and out of the water, as well as to follow it around during its dive as best I could using the transponder. I never got to dive with the SP350. This was one of my greatest regrets while working for the Cousteau team.

I seemed to find myself more often than not on watch duty. This was when I really got to know the Commandant, Monsieur Cousteau. For some reason I was on watch with him more than I was with any of the other confirmed navigators! I was always afraid to disturb his sleep, but I often did need to go and get him. I know it sounds dumb now, but this was Jacques Cousteau after all, and I was anxious to prove myself!

Of course he usually took his time and arrived a few moments later than I did when we were on watch, and as a result these were some of the longest "short" moments of my life! I never really knew if JYC simply trusted me alone with the ship as Navigator, or if I simply was not knocking loud enough to wake him! Looking back, I suspect that this was his way of saying, "Look stupid, if you're going to wake me up, then just do it and make more noise next time!" The time we spent together while on watch were filled with what you might expect - Atlantis, mixed gas diving physiology, satellite navigation and perhaps what fascinated me the most of all, the Tibetan book of the dead and the life of the spirit. I was always eager to share thoughts on this, and it was fascinating to hear his idea of the meaning of life.

Jacques Cousteau was, in my opinion, a perfectionist. He was also very demanding to work for, but never asked for, or expected anything more than he was ready to give himself. The gift of his personal watch truly underscored this spirit of commitment and camaraderie to me, and likewise in other ways to everyone else he and the Calypso touched.

Despite the demands, (or maybe because of them) working for him was always a pleasure. One day in Canada we were passing some whales and everyone was on the deck looking for vents. We drew closer to the whales and he said, "Watch... the mother will show her calf how to jump out of the water soon." I thought to myself, ‘You may know a lot about the water but that kind of prediction is impossible!’ Sure enough, about two minutes later, out of the water came the big whale followed by the small whale. I never again questioned what he said.

As told by Bruno Capello