Sunday, January 30, 2022

The Presidents And Vulcain - One For The Gipper

Just over 33 years since the last known presentation of a Vulcain Cricket to a US President past, present, or future (to Richard Nixon by the National Association of Watch and Clock Makers in 1955), Ronald Reagan visited Helsinki, Finland on his way to one final summit meeting in Moscow with the Soviet leader who was first presented with a Cricket directly from the brand just one year prior - Mikhail Sergeyevich Gorbachev.

And history (at least in terms of watch collecting) was about to be made. Several US Presidents had received or owned Vulcain Crickets up to this point. But insofar as the Vulcain company records indicate, not to mention the personal recollections of Michel Ditisheim, the company had never presented a Vulcain Cricket to a US President (sitting, past or future) up to this point.
Unbeknownst to most everyone, a family jeweler in Helsinki, Finland had been working on a special surprise for future US Presidents. What would later prove to be one of the most impressive "soft power" marketing strategies in the watch business, really started out as a sincere and heartfelt thank you.

Jouko Paajanen was the owner of that family jewelry store. But he was not originally from Helsinki. His family had lived fairly close to the Finland/Soviet border when the Winter War saw a young Jouko and his family flee their homes to escape an advancing Soviet army. His son Keijo remembered it this way -
"As many watch historians and fans know, there was in the past a tradition of presenting a Vulcain Cricket to US Presidents. We wanted the great story to continue and also because our family has always wanted to have good relations with the USA. My father and his family escaped from advancing Russians (Soviets) in 1939."

At some point in the 1980s (and despite my asking everyone involved, nobody remembers exactly when), Jouko and Keijo met with Michel Ditisheim in Switzerland, with the idea of ordering a collection of Vulcain Crickets to present to US Presidents visiting Helsinki. There was but one small problem - the Vulcain company was dormant. But the Cricket was still alive, and chirping - as the Thommen Revue Cricket.

Courtesy of Paajanen Jewelers
This was, essentially, the same watch but under a new livery. So a deal was struck, and Mr. Ditisheim agreed to create a special series of Crickets, but with a dial and case back indicating Vulcain. This made sense for everyone involved. The Paajanens had been loyal customers of Vulcain, and later of Revue Thommen. More than a business relationship, there was a genuine friendship between the two families.

The Paajanens ordered 100 pieces, in stainless steel, and stainless steel with gold plating. The gold plated models would be presented to Presidential visitors, and the balance would be sold exclusively by the Paajanens in their store. And while I have stated in the past that this was solely the effort of idea of the Paajanen, I have learned that in fact that while the Paajanen's did indeed order and pay for 100 pieces, none of it would have been possible without the willingness of Michel Ditisheim to partner with them on a project that would not truly benefit him or Revue Thommen as the watches bore the name Vulcain on the dial and case backs, and were only sold in Helsinki, Finland. But having spent some time with Mr. Ditisheim, I have come to learn that at heart, he is a bit of a romantic. And having spent some time in La Chaux-de-Fonds as well as the new Vulcain HQ in Le Locle, it is abundantly clear that there would be no Vulcain as it is today without the contributions made by the Ditisheims, and Michel Ditisheim in particular.

But back to 1988 -
A customer of the Paajanen's had connections of some sort at the US embassy, and through protracted arrangements, it was agreed that a Vulcain Cricket would be delivered. But nothing is ever that simple. The watch was delivered to the embassy a full week in advance, but it remained unknown up until the very last minute as to whether or not the watch would find its way to President Reagan when he visited. 

Spoiler Alert -

Courtesy of the Paajanen Family

And so, nearly 4 decades later, the Cricket was once again alive and well and chirping on Pennsylvania Avenue.

Tune in next time, when the Cricket hops to the wrist of a high school kid who instead of heading to the Ivy League, opted to enlist as a Naval Aviator following the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Thursday, January 27, 2022

The ochs line due ore / 2 timezones

From ochs und junior -

Courtesy of ochs und junior
*Editor's Note - James Henderson has recently begun working with ochs und junior in a consulting capacity. 
As such, this is strictly a reposting of press information, and will contain no opinion/recommendation/review.

two time zone or due ore


Dimensions

39mm x 10.4mm

Weight

54g

Water resistance

100m (10bar)

Case

Made from two parts designed by Ludwig Oechslin, available in grade 5 Titanium. Visible machining and milling traces.

Base movement

ETA 2824-2 with 38 hours of power reserve. Manufacturer: ETA SA / Grenchen / Switzerland.

Crown

22mm width in titanium designed by Ludwig Oechslin. Manufacturer: Pibor SA / Glovelier / Switzerland.

Buckle

Classic buckle in Grade 5 titanium, designed by Ludwig Oechslin.

Watch straps

Navy blue Cordura strap in sizes S/M/L, handmade by Sabina Brägger.

Crystal

Sapphire crystal by Stettler in Lyss/Switzerland.

Night visibility

Swiss Super-LumiNova®, applied by Monyco in La Chaux-de-Fonds / Switzerland.

Swiss made

The ochs und junior due ore is entirely manufactured in Switzerland. Each watch is hand-assembled and regulated at the ochs und junior workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Warranty

The entire watch is covered by a 2-year guarantee.

Design

ochs und junior, Non-customizable.


Price:    
CHF 3'500 — Incl. 7.7% VAT.
CHF 3'230 — Export price.

Wednesday, January 26, 2022

Brand Ambassador Bingo - The "Free Brittany" Edition

Dear LVMH (and frankly every brand out there),

Consider this your wake-up call. It's time to free yourselves, and free your celebrity partners from the Squid Game that is brand ambassador bingo.

Courtesy of Netflix

So right off the bat, I want to make something crystal clear - the topic of today's post is on the public conduct of brand ambassadors, and why brand ambassadors can all too often come back and bite you in the hind quarters. Brands typically like to have an ambassador that is in the news for positive things, and tends not to be on a soapbox venting his/her spleen. 

So to be clear, this is not a post (or debate) about whether or not vaccines work, whether COVID19 is real as opposed to a plot cooked up by some secret cabal bent on world domination, or even whether or not Bigfoot exists. (As far as Sasquatch goes, I have an open mind).

It is fair to say that the celebrity wranglers in the watch division at LVMH might be reconsidering some of their recent choices. For better or worse, since the somewhat goofy reign of Nataf, Zenith has struggled to fully understand who they are as a brand, what type of  brand they are and how to gain traction in a world chock full of high end manufacturers. All this while coexisting in the fishbowl of a watch group that never met a famous brand ambassador, partner, friend of the brand it didn't like. 

Enter -

"As the top rated quarterback in the NFL and a living legend in American football, Aaron Rodgers knows what it means to reach your star, and do it with impeccable timing." 

At least, that's how Zenith saw it when they signed him to be the face of the brand in North America. I will say I find it intriguing that the folks in Le Locle seem to have an almost fetishistic desire to sign NFL quarterbacks to represent them, yet they also seem to have a knack for picking these guys just after they've reached their "zenith"... see what I did there? Sorry, too soon?  It is a "thirst trap", and apparently they're still thirsty.

Now as someone who prides himself on speaking his mind, I respect Mr. Rodger's right to say or do as he pleases. But then again, Zenith is not dropping tons of cash in my bank account or duking me with multiple chronographs. And as you can tell by looking at the site, I am not courting multiple advertisers.

One other interesting thing to consider in this particular sideshow is the sudden about face of conservative media outlets (and more than a few conservative watch retailers in California) who previously told Colin Kaepernick to stand, and for LeBron James to "shut up and dribble", who demanded that everyone respect the President of the United States... and interesting that many of these same people now laud Mr. Rodgers for his "I don't give a f___!" approach to public relations, and his assertion that the White House is "fake". I would like to think that with the benefit of an undergraduate degree from Cal Berkeley he could have been more eloquent. It's clear that the difference between being a spoiled athlete who should clam up and stick to sports, and being a "freedom loving not afraid to speak his truth individual" is all about perception...or shades thereof.

And speaking of  "challenging" friends of the brand, we come to Hublot. FIFA is a no-win situation unless you concur with FIFA's president, Gianni Infantino's assessment that holding the World Cup twice a year will prevent the death at sea of African migrants -

https://www.theguardian.com/football/2022/jan/26/fifa-gianni-infantino-biennial-world-cup-could-save-african-migrants-from-death-in-the-sea

And hey, if it just so happens to put some more cash in his and FIFA's bank accounts, what's the harm?

Floyd Mayweather's selection as an ambassador raised such a stink with one NYC based watch maven that they swore they would never darken the door of any event Hublot hosted! That resolve lasted about two weeks. A press lunch with free flowing champagne and an audience with Jean-Claude Biver must have mitigated this individual's (self) righteous indignation.

As it applies to his tennis, and a lot of the really cool things he has done with charity, I am a fan of Novak Djokovic. That being said, one particular irony was this little missive from 2020:

https://novakdjokovic.com/en/news/media/novak-jelena-and-the-ndf-donating-1-million-euros-to-help-serbia-fight-covid-19/

Now before anyone goes crying "fake news", this is from Mr. Djokovic's own website. 

And once more, this is not a post about vaccinations, COVID mortality or the Loch Ness Monster...although I have seen Champ on the Vermont side of Lake Champlain 

Courtesy of https://www.lakechamplainregion.com/heritage/champ

Now that the humor is dispensed with, let's talk about why these situations are bad for business (and public health and the fabric of society).

In Aaron Rodger's case, he is absolutely free to say and feel what he does. That being said, he is a public figure, and as such he is going to come under scrutiny - you take the rough with the smooth. Unfortunately, Mr. Rodgers is serving up his dissatisfaction with a LOT of fairly random and wide-ranging anger and open hostility, and that is never a good look for a brand ambassador. He is now at the center of what is becoming an even more heated and pointless debate. The heated aspect is understandable as there is a ton of anger on both sides. The debate is pointless because neither side is showing any side of changing their mind. It is essentially like pissing into a cup of coffee believing you'll improve the flavor, but you simply end up ruining it for yourself and anyone else.

In the case of Mr. Djokovic, there is probably too much to unpack, but the short form is this - Australia is (sorry Mr. Djokovic Senior) a sovereign country, and their rules are their rules. You don't have to like them, you don't even have to agree with them. But you do have to respect them if you wish to be a guest in their country. What you do in your own place is your own business. That being said, Djokovic the Elder beseeching Queen Elizabeth to intervene as Australia was a Commonwealth country added a bit of slapstick to an otherwise sad and jingoistic pastiche. I am fairly confident that every so-called western country has not and is not actively conniving to keep Mr. Djokovic the Younger from remaining the number 1 tennis player in the world. Although as bat-shit crazy theories go, the idea that the "EVIL WEST" could get its collective act together enough to hatch such a diabolical plot is the stuff of conspiracy theory legend. Consider this, we can't even all agree to use kilometers as opposed to miles, or to all drive on the right hand side of the road as opposed to the left. Or even whether pants are underwear or in fact trousers. The fact that Djokovic the Elder thinks that we are that well organized (and cunning) is flattering, albeit downright laughable. Let's hope some time off and a cool drink (not Kool Aid) will help him get back in touch with his better angels.

In not so distant times, I was responsible for seeking celebrities (both mighty and small) to partner with various brands. And in truth? I was always anxious about it. The rule of thumb was (and probably remains) -

Everyone loves puppies / Nobody likes cancer

Unfortunately, the world of celebrity partnerships seems to be rife with situations that morph into "cancer puppies". And ultimately it serves to remind us of a few important facts of life, not the least of which is that these are people, actual human beings. Just like any "normal" person, for all of their talent, beauty and strength, they are just as flawed as the rest of us. They are just as vulnerable, just as prone to imperfection, just as human. 

So maybe its time to let these folks step down from the pedestal and let them be themselves, let them be "mere mortals". Whether we agree with them or not, particularly in these volatile times, maybe we need to remember what the Police once shared at another tense moment -

"We can all sink or we all float
'Cos we're all in the same big boat"

Free the Ambassadors!

Tuesday, January 25, 2022

The MODEL 500-GMT-RS

From RGM -
Courtesy of RGM
Regular readers will know that I am a cycling fan and practitioner. However, I am not a follower of the new school - carbon fiber, electronic shifters and the like. I like steel. The frame of my bike was made slowly, by one guy in Bergamo, Italy -

The key materials - Columbus SL tubing. Not the latest and lightest, but rather the same tubing that has been utilized for decades -

Times have changed, but not unlike Vinyl LPs, there are devotees out there (this guy included) who prefer riding steel to carbon fiber. I'm not saying this is a debate of right or wrong (although I know I am right). I don't have any misplaced fantasies about returning to 1984 and finally winning the Ohio/West Virginia USCF Intermediate road race and going to the Nationals (I still can't believe that group that went with the Senior Cat 2 breakaway didn't get DQ'd!). I am 53, I have a more-than-full-time job running an adult education center along with a pretty hectic evening weekend gig as a brand consultant and sometimes writer. During the winter months I head to the gym for spin sessions. But when the weather breaks and I have the time, I take to the road. It is not an issue of simply getting exercise - I have the gym for that. For me, time with my bike is precious and something to be savored. I realize that I am a romantic, and perhaps a bit of a dinosaur, but there you go.

If there is a poet laureate of hand made bicycles, it would be Richard Sachs.


And it is for these reasons that I find the latest collaboration between Richard Sachs and RGM so cool!
Courtesy of RGM
The MODEL 500-GMT-RS is based on the Model 500-GMT, but with the added flourish of the Richard Sachs logo enhancing the GMT hand.

To be fair, there are a lot of young aspirants entering the fray, and trying to find their way as watch brands in the US. But just as Richard Sachs has set (at an outrageously high level) the standard for any frame builders to follow, Roland Murphy and the team at RGM continue to set the standard for those that hope to follow here in the US.

So if like me, you crave a bit of romance in your life, you can strap some Richard Sachs / RGM magic to your wrist.  Limited to 50 pieces, and priced at an accessible $4,750.

 Here are the pertinents -

The Model 500-GMT is the first RGM with a bi-directional-turning GMT bezel. The watch is designed as a sport watch that is also ideal for travel when using the 24-hour GMT hand and bezel. To help ensure durability, the watch has two case-back gaskets, a 2mm thick sapphire crystal, and a high-quality screw-down crown. The bezel is deep engraved, and the numbers are ceramic-filled. We have also designed ribbing on the case side creating a beautiful aesthetic for this versatile sport watch. The dial and hands have X1 SuperLumaNova for low light visibility.

Movement Caliber: RGM-ETA 2893-2 - Swiss-made automatic, 21 jewels, 28,800 vph. Rhodium  finish - Cote de Geneve lines and perlage

Functions: Hour / Minute / Second / GMT/ Date

Case: 316L Stainless Steel, 41mm x 11.3mm at bezel, 22mm lug width, 51mm lug end to lug end. Sapphire crystal and water-resistant to 10-ATM. Case length from lug end to lug end 51mm.

Bracelet: 316L Stainless Steel, coming soon

Weight:  3.4oz. in stainless steel

Monday, January 24, 2022

The Transfer Window Will Apparently Open

At Audemars Piguet...

If anything could completely eclipse the news of the management buyout of GP/UN from Kering in the collective consciousness of Watch Town, it was the news put forward by Miss Tweed regarding the rumored potential departure of the current CEO of Audemars Piguet, François-Henry Bennahmias. 

While it is safe to say that nothing lasts forever, the news of a potential, semi-imminent departure of a CEO without a clearly defined succession plan actually raises far more questions than it answers. Miss Tweed's article indicated that an outside (located outside of Switzerland) search firm might be used to try and find the right person to take over. It was also hinted that there would be no small amount of jockeying for position internally. In other words, to paraphrase - there is chaos under heaven, and the situation is excellent!

Now, with all due respect to the brand, and Mr. Bennahmias's achievements, the one key question it begs is the one nobody seems to be asking - Why now?

If I have understood correctly he is still pretty young. It also seems somewhat odd that there appears to be no clear succession plan in place. If you're planning on leaving, wouldn't you have identified some folks with the talent and temperament to take over? Moreover, a succession plan is (even at a neighborhood 7-Eleven) a fairly standard business practice in the infamous "In case I get hit by a bus..." scenario. It would not be unreasonable to assume that in the 10 years or so he has been in charge, he might have identified a few people to mentor. Which again begs the question - why an outside search firm?  Audemars Piguet has more than enough money, resources and people to have developed several reasonable options in the past 10 years. The real question is, did they?

Not a sausage from Le Brassus where one outlet reported that their request for comment received a summary no comment, other than that AP "would not comment on rumors".

So we shall wait, and we shall see...

Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin Have New Owners

It would seem that Patrick Pruniaux has managed to round up some banks to back the somewhat drawn out management buyout of the two brands from parent company Kering.

For the original (in French) please direct yourself to the link below -

See also some coverage from Reuters -


We'll be back later today with some commentary, so stay tuned!


Sunday, January 23, 2022

The Presidents And Vulcain - The Birth of a New Tradition

"As many watch historians and fans know, there was in the past a tradition of presenting a Vulcain Cricket to US Presidents. We wanted the great story to continue and also because our family has always wanted to have good relations with the USA. My father and his family escaped from advancing Russians (Soviets) in 1939."

Keijo Paajanen - 2012

Photo credit HEIKKI SAVOLAINEN 1997
You couldn't really call it fate, it seemingly had all of the earmarks of a grand marketing plan.

But as Branch Rickey once famously opined - "Luck is the residue of design". The next chapter of the Cricket and Presidents would be written by two families - one in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland the other in Helsinki, Finland. I have come to think of the late 80s, 90s and early 00s as the Ditisheim/ Paajanen era. 

Up until 1988, the partnership between the Vulcain Cricket and the Presidents of the United States was on more than one occasion the culmination of a wonderful set of coincidences. Yes, Vulcain was wise enough to capitalize on the fact that several US Presidents wore a Vulcain Cricket through some great advertising back in the 50s, but no watch had ever been presented to a President (sitting, future or former) by Vulcain. Although Michel Ditisheim had sent a Cricket addressed to the attention of Mikhail Gorbachev (care of the Kremlin) back in 1987, it remained unknown to him (Ditisheim) whether or not the watch had indeed arrived and been accepted by Gorbachev. And not unlike when peanut butter met jelly, fate would bring two families together who would actually create the tradition that has been misunderstood for so long by so many.

So I turn back to a conversation that I had with Keijo Paajanen back in 2012. Keijo explained that through a meeting he and his father had with Michel Ditisheim in Switzerland, the idea to manufacture and present a new  version of the Vulcain Cricket was born. At that time (the late 1980s) Vulcain had essentially gone dormant, and Revue Thommen was manufacturing and marketing a Cricket alarm watch of its own. 

This was at least in part due to the fact that Michel Ditisheim, the son of the Cricket's creator, was then Director of MSR (Montres Suisse Reunion) and a share-holder of Revue Thommen. And therefore the Vulcain Crickets that were produced in this era bore the Revue Thommen logo on the crown and buckle of those presented to the Presidents and sold to the general public by the Paajanens.


At the time, the Paajanens also carried the Revue Thommen Cricket, but along with Mr. Ditisheim they felt that the Vulcain name should make a comeback and grace the dial of the Cricket that would be presented to visiting Presidents as well as sold (exclusively) to customers in Helsinki, Finland. The Paajanens ordered 100 new Vulcain Crickets, and the die was cast.

Tune in next time as the Cricket awakes from a long hibernation, takes flight once more and lands on the wrist of a native of Tampico, Illinois who would go on to be the Governor if California.

Thursday, January 20, 2022

The Last Thing I Need... But Still Desperately Want

From SWATCH -

Courtesy of Swatch
Having spent the last few weeks doing a deep Vulcain dive, I was taking a break and cruising around the Swatch website this morning, and what did I find?  Why the SISTEM THROUGH AGAIN -

Courtesy of Swatch
I have what could be called a love/hate relationship with the Sistem 51.  The year that it came out I bought a red and a blue.  The red one was great, the blue always ran slow. And in truth? They both always felt sorta' cheap. 

I plumped for another a few years later -


This one was a bit better, and felt better owing to the strap...

But it still wasn't where I wanted it to be feel-wise, and the dial while soothing did not, and still does not turn my crank.


Enter the SISTEM THROUGH AGAIN -

Sort of a SISTEM / Irony love-child!  For me, it ticks all the boxes. Do I need it? Of course not.

Do I understand that like every other Swatch automatic it is essentially a time bomb (you cannot open it to repair the movement) and once it craps out, it will be a paper weight? Yes, I get it. And at $225 it is a potentially expensive paper weight ; )

But with watches, I am often more of a romantic than a realist. And it's hard not to be romantic about the SISTEM THROUGH AGAIN. 

Watches and Wondering - Waiting for Godot

With the dearth of new releases out there, and the notable silence from the fair's organizers, it is seeming less and less likely that 2022 (at least March/April) will see the return of large scale, in-person watch fairs in Geneva.

Credit: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0276613/

On the one hand, it appears that the latest COVID surge has peaked in several countries. But reaching the peak does not put us back to a safe infection level... at least not yet. Geneva is one of the strictest cantons in Switzerland in terms of health and safety policy, and for all of the foreign buyers and press that hope to come to attend a show there are quite a few hoops that they will have to jump through - I say this having travelled in September and November. And that's just to get into Switzerland. I will also make clear that I agree with Switzerland's stance. Which I guess means that Novak Djocovic won't be making any personal appearances at the Hublot booth in the near future.

China and Hong Kong represent the largest block of customers for Richemont and most likely LVMH and Kering. For those folks, getting to Switzerland is one thing. Coming back home? Well, that's quite the other. Lengthy quarantine requirements have marked a significant drop in travel both from and to this region. So with all of that being said, I don't expect that a lot of these folks will be opting to attend. And let's not even get started with the US, where (for better or worse) public health and safety has become more of a political issue than, well, a health and safety issue. Unless the Swiss government opts to drop the vaccination requirements for entry at the Zurich, Basel, and Geneva airports, a large swath of folks from North America will be staying home. 

That leaves the Middle East, Africa, South America and parts of Europe. This is not to say that these are not important markets or customers, but it is to say that they do not, unfortunately, represent the same percentage of turnover for the brands.

And lastly, there are the organizers of the show itself. Watches and Wonders, along with its predecessor the SIHH, went to great lengths to create an atmosphere of not only exclusivity, but exclusion in the past. And while it might be "the only game in town", I give Watches and Wonders about as much consideration as I do NOMOS
Glashütte
, which is to say I don't consider it at all.

Monday, January 17, 2022

The Presidents And Vulcain - The Cricket Travels East For An Unexpected Stop In Moscow

With Vice President (only later to become President) Richard Nixon leaving public life in the 1970s and Gerald Ford replacing him, the Oval Office was decidedly "Cricket Free" for quite some time. For those of you following along at home: Up to this point, Vulcain had not presented a Vulcain Cricket to a US President (sitting or future). Once again, a huge thank you to Michel Ditisheim for a lot of background that he provided.

When I was meeting with Mr. Ditisheim back in November, I asked him about a Time Magazine cover that featured a noted world leader wearing what appeared to be a Vulcain Cricket. And it was during this conversation that the TRUE identity of the first "President" to receive a Vulcain Cricket from the Vulcain company, was not born in the US. In fact, the first to be presented a Cricket directly from Vulcain was not born in Virginia, Ohio or New York, but rather by the Yegorlyk River, in Privolnoye, Stavropol kray, Russia, U.S.S.R.

"Wait, what's that you say? The first time Vulcain presented the "Watch of the Presidents" to a president was to the General Secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union?"
Courtesy of Time Magazine
Yes watch fans, the Soviets beat the US to space with Sputnik, and Gorbachev beat any US President in being presented with a Vulcain Cricket, directly by Vulcain.

What has been missed, or simply assumed by most accounts of the Cricket and the US President connection was that the company had given the watches themselves. This was never the case up to this point. And it is quite intriguing that Michel Ditisheim, the son of the inventor of the Cricket would be the one to set up his father's invention on its second act on the world's geopolitical stage.

What Mr. Ditisheim explained to me was that the idea to give Mr. Gorbachev a Vulcain Cricket came about in what I often refer to as the "between time". This is the time when Vulcain had slowed down its production and became part of the Manufactures d'Horlogerie Suisses Réunies SA, or MSR. This group was formed in 1961 and included Revue Thommen, Buser Freres, Phenix, and later Marvin (in 1976).

Mr. Ditisheim with the help of Vulcain enthusiast (and member of the Swiss Federal Council) Pierre Aubert helped to arrange the presentation of a Vulcain Cricket to the leader of the Soviet Union. The watch was delivered to the Kremlin in 1987, and then... nothing. Not a peep. Mr. Ditisheim could not have been blamed if he might have felt it was a failure as a PR plan. Three years passed, and  it wasn't until he went to his mailbox, and took out that week's copy of Time Magazine's International Edition (December 30, 1990, number 53) that he knew that the Vulcain Cricket had not only been successfully delivered, but had found its way onto Mr. Gorbachev's wrist! Vulcain never received any sort of acknowledgement or thank you. But there it was, the first ever Vulcain Cricket presented to a sitting "president", splashed large across the front cover of (at that time) one of the world's most important news magazines.

And the Vulcain Cricket was about to take to the air again, and travel westward to land again on the wrist of a former US President. But not quite as far west as you might think. Tune in next time to read about how a family jeweler worked with Michel Ditisheim to reclaim its title as the Watch of the Presidents.

Saturday, January 15, 2022

A Grand Day Out - Visiting Vulcain HQ in Le Locle Part 3

Any story about visiting Vulcain HQ would not be complete without a tour of what may be a pretty phenomenal museum in the not-too-distant future. 

Although there are administrative offices on the second (first) floor, and an atelier on the third (second) floor, there is a magnificent, sun soaked area on the first (ground) floor that will make an amazing, albeit small museum should Vulcain ever decide to create one -





Lots of light, lots of beautiful vitrines, and luckily, lots of treasures to display -

This is the same (not exact, but the same) Vulcain Cricket that was presented to President Barack Obama upon his election, and curious to relate? That was the very first Vulcain Cricket ever given as a gift to a United States President.

But beyond that, lots of fun pieces from the archives -




But the archives run far deeper than the past 50 years. The thing that gets lost in all of the (justifiable) buzz about the Cricket, is that Vulcain was a pretty significant producer even before back in the day -




And this includes some pretty esoteric pieces -
But a visit to the Vulcain HQ will also reveal quite a bit of history - some downright historical, and some relatively recent.

While it is certainly true that watch brands are fond of professional footballers (soccer players) and vice-versa, it is worth noting that back before it was a fashionable (or today, overdone) notion to partner with players or teams, Vulcain was one of the first to dip their toes in the partnership waters -

With Real Madrid (above) and Fiorentina 
(below) -

And continued on into more recent times partnering with a Grinnell College graduate from Chicago who opted to pursue music rather than electrical engineering.  

His name was Herbert.  

While we may always wonder what he might have contributed in terms of inventions and developments to improve our daily lives, I personally feel that the world is a much better place thanks to Head Hunters and Future Shock, and Herbie Hancock made the right career choice -

And a small bit of Henki lore - the idea for the Herbie Hancock partnership was born in a seafood restaurant in Beverly Hills, California back in 2011 with the (then) new distributor of Vulcain. I was having dinner with the new North American distributor Mark Wasserman who had just taken over Vulcain having formerly distributed Oris. Oris as you may know had done a slew of jazz musician partnerships, including one of Herbie Hancock's former bandleaders, the son of an East St. Louis dentist and Julliard drop-out, Miles Davis.

In terms of "Presidential" brand ambassadors, it is important to once again try to clarify some misinformation that has continued to swirl around the Vulcain Cricket and its relationship to the Commander in Chief. The Vulcain Cricket gifted to Barack Obama in 2010 was THE FIRST Vulcain Cricket gifted to a US President (sitting or former). 

In fact, it might surprise you to know that before Vulcain presented a Cricket (the Watch of the Presidents) to a US President, Vulcain actually presented a Cricket to the leader of the Soviet Union!  But that is a story that we will be picking up in the next installment of The Greatest Marketing Campaign That Never Was (a marketing campaign).  
Like all good things, my visit had to come to an end, but my nearly 24 year quest to compile a clear and accurate record of the Vulcain Cricket and its relationship with the Presidents of the United States continues. 


It has taken me from Helsinki Finland, to San Francisco, Basel Switzerland, on to Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, La Chaux-de-Fonds and finally to Le Locle.  But the quest continues, so please stay tuned!


And nearly 24 years later, our story will take us to Finland.


And I will introduce you to a family that with the help of the son of the inventor of the Vulcain Cricket reinvigorated the the legend of the Watch of the Presidents.


Until then - Tempus Fugit!