I Could Do It Better Myself! The Brand CEO

Or, a cautionary tale on the realities of the watch business.

In a former life, I was not in the watch business on any level whatsoever.  I bought the three US based watch magazines with the same fervor of an 8 year old buying baseball cards.  Okay, that example might be out of date, but take your young child's current enthusiasm and insert it here ; )

When you admire a business or industry from afar, it is quite easy to see things through rose-colored glasses.  A good friend of mine dreamed of working for a European based professional cycling team.  He wanted to be the guy who was there at the finish line to assist the next Bernard Hinault off his bike at a stage finish of the Tour de France.  After three years of living in shitty hotels around the world, multiple cases of bronchitis, a failed marriage (former wife left him for a barista. To paraphrase "at least he had a steady job and was home on weekends") and getting a good scare after getting jabbed by an IV bag's bloody, used needle, he realized that $50,000 a year was not worth it.  Reflecting back, he did have the ability to curse in French, Portuguese, Italian, Spanish, Dutch and one other language that he still can't identify, some scratched-up water bottles, and a signed jersey from a race winner in some minor,  Eastern European stage race that is no longer in existence.  His former wife earned an MBA and that former Barista now works for a well-respected NGO in micro finance, and has given a well-received TED Talk.

But let's get back to watches.  Despite the fact that I have no hesitation to call bullshit on certain situations, I suffer no delusions as to the difficulty of trying to run, or even work for a brand.  Today, let's start at the top and think about that rockstar - the CEO.

As has been mentioned before, the late 90s and early oughts brought with them the era of the watch brand CEO as rock star. We all know that Biver was Blancpain, Omega then Hublot. We know that Frederique Constant are led by the Stas family, and that Thierry Stern is the latest (and perhaps last) Stern family member that will helm the ship.  Now in most other industries, a CEO is, well, just not that sexy.  For whatever reason (and we all theorize about it) watch CEOs suddenly became not only relevant, but exciting!  And for better or worse, that has been steadily changing over the past few years.  And with it we have seen some pretty dramatic falls from some pretty lofty heights.

As armchair experts, we assume that as a CEO you live a pretty easy, idyllic life -

You roll into the office at around 10:00 AM, traipse through the production facility wishing all of the watchmakers well, grab the paper and plop your feet up on your desk as an espresso magically appears at your side.  You might then speak briefly with a sales manager hearing the wonderful results, then you saunter down to the executive dining room for lunch.  After lunch you're off to the airport where a private jet whisks you off to Italy for a photo-op with your favorite footballer who trades you a signed jersey for a (retail) $20,000 watch. You have a lovely early dinner with said star, team president and other hangers-on.  Then back to the private jet that whisks you home, where your stunning (not-so-age appropriate) partner is waiting for you wearing little more than a smile.  

This is, of course, all bullshit.

So I thought I would share with you a montage of of the Swiss and Japanese CEO's I have worked with and give you a sense of what their day was like:

4:15 - rudely awakened by a random call from an overseas sales manager who despite working for a company that manufactures, markets and sells wrist watches, has still not grasped the concept of international time zones.  But what can you do?  He's the nephew of one of your Board members.

6:00 - after stealing back 15 - 20 minutes of sleep, you have to get up, put on your track suit and take the dog out before you have another unfortunate incident that will require strong cleaning products to remedy if you don't get the puppy on the leash and out into the garden in the next 45, 44, 43 seconds!

6:20 - you made the mistake of bringing your cell phone with you on the walk which is now taking longer than usual as you have a call from the head of assembly, informing you that there was a leak in the lavatory that has now seeped down into the workshop.  You are now really regretting not selling the beautiful old workshop (great for photo opportunities and media "moments" but your watchmakers hate it) when you were approached by that smooth talking, but slightly dodgy real-estate agent who was shopping on the behalf of a very wealthy client hailing from a former Soviet Republic/Stan, who could not be named, but who you suspect belongs to a "fraternal" organization made up of other mysterious fellows that is not the Elks or the Masons.  

7:15 - chasing the kids to hurry up and get ready!  Your partner has already left for work, and today's your day to get the children to their three different schools which are, you guessed it, in three different villages.

8:20 - all three now safely deposited at their institutions of learning, you work the phone (via your hands-free set-up) as you drive on to the office.  No work has taken place in the workshop.  The plumber is, apparently, on vacation in Majorca, and you are now reaching out to a regional assembler to see if they can help you out in the short term by handling the assembly of a week's worth of production.

8:55 - you sprint past the main entry way where you clap eyes on the journalist who is there for an interview (set to start in five, no make that four minutes).  Brief pleasantries are exchanged, and you make your way to one of the conference rooms.  This is the same room that was used for the company yoga class last night, and is still a wee-bit "aromatic" this morning.  

9:05 - after apologizing for the absence of a coffee (nobody remembered to order more Nespressso pods), you begin the dog and pony show with the journalist who you realize is just slightly older than your eldest child, and might be finally old enough to vote in their first election this year.  Halfway through the interview/inquisition you are then treated to the sales pitch from said journalist who presents you with a rate card for today's interview.  If you want it to run beyond their instagram feed, it will cost X.  You make a mental note to cancel the lunch reservation and wrap this up as quickly as possible.  A "goodie bag" is assembled and passed over, and you move onto the next hurdle.

10:45 - Regional Assembler owner calls to inform you that they are "SLAMMED" with orders from (Regional Assembler begins to drop big, expensive names), but maybe you could meet at the most expensive restaurant near his shop to discuss the possibilities over lunch?

11:05 - after reviewing the plumbing situation, you call your brother-in-law who you remember did a 6 month apprenticeship back in the 80s, and might be able to help out.

11:50 - you remember that tomorrow is the board meeting.  You put together a shopping list for food and beverages, and NESPRESSO PODS, Dammit!

12:30 - you arrive at the most expensive restaurant near the assembler's shop to find the assembler and someone who is very clearly not his wife sharing the remains of a not inexpensive bottle of champagne.  You do the mental math and realize that you probably never should have called him in the first place.  Your guests order half the menu, you order a cup of soup and still water, trying to figure out how to explain this to your accounting department.  In the end, apologies all around, but we're just too busy to help you.  "But we should do this again some time!"

2:43 - back at the workshop, your brother in law is on the scene, has somehow managed to field strip the leaky joint, run out to the local Home Depot, purchased the requisite replacement gaskets, re-assembled the connection, flushed the pipes and...
Good as new!  He even grabs a mop to help the cleaning crew clean up the mess!  You make a mental note, contact the purchasing office and - with your own money - buy him a new watch with your company discount.  Thank you's are exchanged and you make plans for him and his family to come over at the weekend.  All is right with the world... for now.

4:45 - after about a ZILLION calls from overseas agents, you then have your meeting with the marketing department who are very, very keen to make a regional F3 racer a brand ambassador.  You google the name and realize that said F3 racer is the godson of your head of marketing.  You keep your poker face, and suggest a follow-up meeting about it next week.

8:30 - You have nearly finished preparing your presentation for the board meeting tomorrow night, your partner calls to ask you if you could please pick up your middle child who missed the bus after her karate class.  So you gather up a few files, grab your shopping list for tomorrow, grab your laptop and head to your car, your daughter, and finally - home.

Yes, it's not all glamour ; )

If Price Were No Object

I am, by and large, not a huge fan of many of Jaeger-LeCoultre's watches. There, I've said it.  

Now some things about JLC as a brand I like very much.  Not least of which is their understanding that being the CEO does not require you to possess the Y chromosome ; )

And they do make one watch that has held my attention for quite some time, the Reverso.  But not just any Reverso.  In the not-so-distant past JLC began producing the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds.  The Reverso, with a twist.  A colorful dial that truly stands out.

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre

In a world of black dialed divers and silver/white dress watches, this one stands out.

Now when we talk about pricing, let's be honest, it is not for everyone with a sticker price of $7,650 before the sales tax.  But some things are worth it.  And for me, if price was not an object?  This would be on my wrist!

Here are the pertinents -

Case
Stainless Steel, Water-resistance - 3 bar, Dimensions (L x W) - 45.6 X 27.4mm

Movement 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 
822/2
Manual-winding
Hours, Minutes, Seconds

Dial
Burgundy red, sunray-brushed, appliqued hour-markers

Strap
Leather

Baume & Mercier and What Could Still be

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

There are some brands out there that just seem to get lost in the shuffle.  I was trying to explain the concept of luxury groups to someone who is really not into watches at all.  This conversation took place while driving past one of America's innumerable "Auto Miles" where row upon row of auto dealers live and work, cheek to jowl.  

And we had a perfect example passing by the local Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, RAM and... Fiat dealership. It becomes a bit more confusing were you to add some of the other brands owned by the same parent company - Lancia, Maserati, Alfa Romeo...

Well, you get the idea.

Richemont, for all of their swagger and flash are not enjoying the best of times in terms of watch sales.  Now while it has been reported that sales were up in the jewelry section, and a modest bump in watches, there are actually quite a few more pennies about to drop. 

Apart from Rolex and Patek, everyone else is, essentially, sucking a rather fuzzy lollipop.  

But let's get back to the main topic this evening, Baume & Mercier.  And not unlike that aforementioned Fiat Auto Group, while there are several horses in the stable, they are not all future Kentucky Derby winners.

As mentioned previously, the Fiat group has a lot of "work horses", and there are some who feel that Dodge should be sent to the knackers, but they have one race horse - Maserati.  Now curious to relate, all of the brands within the group are not trying to emulate Maserati.  In fact, each of the brands pretty much stays in their lane.  Also curious to relate?  Baume & Mercier had a very bad habit of trying to piss in the tall horological weeds with the other big dogs in the Richemont pack.  Now in fairness, that was under a previous regime.  But the point being, you have to punch your weight.   

Do you ever wonder why Mido doesn't come out with a tourbillon?  

Baume & Mercier has A LOT to offer.  A lot to offer at the right price point and positioning anyway.  There are a lot of people out there who walk into a jewelers without any blessed idea as to what to buy for themselves or as a gift for someone else.  Guess what they buy?  They might buy a Longines, they might buy a Baume & Mercier.  In fact, in speaking with a lot of retailers in North America, that is why Baume & Mercier was such a great seller for them.  It was the watch to sell when a "civilian" came in unsure of what to get.  Not too cheap, not too expensive, but just right.

That was long before the spin-off of Baume, before the identity crisis that is still roiling.
Baume & Mercier could still be something pretty special.  But it is going to take some time and some re-working of the brand and the brand's message.

But Baume & Mercier could knock it out of the park if they are willing to be who they are, and can stop trying to be who they are not.

I would buy this one in a heartbeat -

Courtesy of Baume & Mercier

The Arceau Squelette

Hermès Horloger

Courtesy of Hermes

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Type: Mechanical self-winding, crafted in Switzerland Functions: Hours, minutes

CASE
Shape/Size: Round, 40 mm in diameter Material: Steel
Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL
Dial in gradient-shaded black sapphire, transparent in the centre.
Silvered Arabic numerals.

STRAP
Black alligator Graphite alligator Abyss blue alligator Havana alligator Étoupe alligator

What David Epstein Could Teach the Watch Industry

I first heard of David Epstein on Dave Chang's 
podcast - The Dave Chang Show.  And the fact that I first got dialed into Mr. Epstein's thoughts on the value of generalization over specialization.  I have dipped into his book - Range:  Why Generalists Triumph in a Specialized World.

Courtesy of Macmillan

And I feel it was particularly appropriate to learn about Mr. Epstein's work on a podcast that is, ostensibly, about about food and food culture.

My main takeaway from the podcast and the bits I've been able to digest directly is that not unlike Bob Dylan's message that the "the loser nowWill be later to win", the times are indeed A- Changin'.

Now for my part, I probably really got my start on the periphery, as a fan, participating on a limited basis in discussion forums.  I then stumbled into a job at Tourneau in San Francisco, and later with DOXA. A blog led to a media business which led to a consulting concern that touches on sales, marketing, media, production, and on and on.  So it's fair to say, this speaks to me.  

So gentle readers, allow me to share with you what the watch industry could learn from David Epstein -

“Overspecialization can lead to collective tragedy even when every individual separately takes the most reasonable course of action.”
David Epstein

I see this a lot in the watch business and saw it painfully so with two former darlings of the business who collapsed less than three years from their first products were delivered to the public. But it goes deeper than this and in fairness to the former Kronaby and Klokers, both of these brands were led by people with experience in consumer products. And in fact, you can see it in the brands that have been through some particularly rough waters.  GP, UN, Eterna are wonderful brands that in the past have suffered from "Silo Syndrome".  Essentially that they were staffed with a bunch of specialists who were discouraged from collaborating.  While it is tempting to tell people to "stick to their lane" when you feel the sole of a foot on your toes, it might, in fact, be worth a listen.


“We learn who we are in practice, not in theory.” 
David Epstein

What I'm about to say is going to sound mean, and it is not meant to.  It is easy to say that a leopard can't change its spots, and I think that is a gross misunderstanding that people, particularly in the watch business have.  Some of the sharpest operators in the industry also keep the lowest profile. As mentioned here before, it's inevitable to fail. The trick is not to make a habit of it.  And failure offers a wealth of lessons. Some of these lessons can be highly personal, where we need to examine how we handled various situations and how we might have done things differently. 

Put another way, words are great, mottos are great, and a good looking CV is just that.    Now, how then do we explain the serial recycling of executives, sales reps, PR firms from one brand to the next and back again?  It actually goes back to overspecialization.  What Moneyball referred to as the "look test".  In essence, only "baseball people" could understand the game and how to work within it.  And what Bill James, Billy Beane and others proved is that just wasn't so.  

And the watch business is unique in the short memories it instills in many of its gatekeepers.  People who entered the industry from others quickly forget that fact when they start running a brand.  Suddenly, only "watch people" (i.e. industry veterans) can possibly understand what it takes.  And as history will show, these folks were then cycled through and spit out of the formal industry, and those who managed to remain had to create their own opportunities.  Which either proves their own misguided theories, or shows that they were, perhaps, victims of over specialization.


“You have people walking around with all the knowledge of humanity on their phone, but they have no idea how to integrate it. We don’t train people in thinking or reasoning.”
David Epstein


I am actually pretty grateful for this, because otherwise I would not have 

clients ; )

This actually comes back to the "Silo Syndrome". Being an expert is great, but unless you can see the bigger picture, it is increasingly harder to adapt to it. As brands continue to contract in size and need to become more nimble, the ability to think outside of your cubicle becomes more and more essential.

“Almost none of the students in any major showed a consistent understanding of how to apply methods of evaluating truth they had learned in their own discipline to other areas.” 
David Epstein


See above.

“The challenge we all face is how to maintain the benefits of breadth, diverse experience, interdisciplinary thinking, and delayed concentration in a world that increasingly incentivizes, even demands, hyperspecialization” 
David Epstein


So let's talk about brand management. Typically, brand managers are promoted through the ranks of the sales department. It makes sense on a lot of levels, no sales means not brand. But even at a regional level, let's say North America, you need to have the flexibility to weigh in on all aspects of the operation. I can't tell you how many meetings I have been to where the brand manager will pass the buck by saying things like -

"Oh, that's marketing. You'll have to talk to...".

This is not to say that you should not have department heads, and people with responsibilities. But really that conversation should go more like this -

"Oh, let's (collaboratively) talk about this with the marketing team..."

What currently happens in a lot of brands is a fundamental disconnect from certain functions that they either feel uncomfortable with or are disinterested with. Say what you want about him, but Jean-Claude Biver was perhaps the first (and still one of the only) brand manager/brand leader/CEOs who made a point of involving himself beyond just sales. Towards the end of his tenure that trailed off, but there was a time where I suspect Hublot was an extension of his central nervous system.

“As each man amassed more information for his own view, each became more dogmatic, and the inadequacies in their models of the world more stark.” 
David Epstein


Too many examples to site.  


“In a wicked world, relying upon experience from a single domain is not only limiting, it can be disastrous.” 
David Epstein


It is important to have a centralized plan for a global brand.  But there needs to be an understanding of locality/reality.  Simple example - F1 is, by and large, not a thing in the US, no matter how much a brand would like it to be, it just isn't.  Neither is rugby.  If we're very honest, neither is sailing, neither is Chinese language cinema.  And yet, I keep getting press releases about partnerships like this.  

And an even starker example could be found at the SWATCH group and the ETA/COMCO fiasco. When you do not consider the possibility that things just might not go your way?  It can be fatal.

Rest assured, ETA is not going out of business, and I have no doubt that some agreement/accommodation will eventually be reached. But in the here and now, several of ETA's more well-heeled customers are having to lump it, and if the word around the campfires in the Jura are to be believed, some loyalists might be looking for a new camp to call home.

Winter Repeat - What I've Learned

I first ran this a little less than two years ago and it seemed a good time to air it out again.

What I've Learned

Despite some pretty dubious watch coverage, I still really enjoy Esquire and I am a big fan of their "What I've Learned" interview segments.  So given some recent interactions I've had both in person and online, and considering that if I count back to when I first stepped behind the counter at Tourneau in San Francisco, I've been "in the game" for 15 years now, I thought it might be fun to put out my own "What I've Learned" piece.  So, gentle reader, here is some of what 
I've learned -

For some outlets, nothing is ever really free.

Now in fairness, people who write about watches are largely divided into two groups:

Those who do it out of passion alone, and those who do it for a living.  Quick note, nothing 

wrong with doing it for a living.  Of the second group, some do it for a living, but are still

passionate about what they do, and actually consider writing about a watch, a brand, 

a watch maker WITHOUT asking for payment (be it advertising, sponsored posts, outright payola) 

first.  For those of your out there in the marketing departments - if your going to spend

marketing money, then spend it on people out there writing about things that they

are passionate about, not just what they are being paid for.


While it is true that Hayek saved the Swiss Watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver would have still kicked ass with Blancpain and would have lived happily ever after either way.

I was there before Hublot became what they would become.  
I am still here now that it is a somewhat bumbling PR gas factory that, apparently, also makes watches.  Although I know that I have the ability to highly irritate him, I have a great deal of respect for Jean-Claude Biver.  But now is the time to start thinking about legacy.  About what happens when he is no longer there.  Jean-Claude Biver is a very, very impressive man.  He has done some very amazing things. Here's hoping it doesn't get washed away.

When a brand manager or CEO asks you "How are you my friend?"  The translation of that is - "how you doing, asshole?"

Brand managers, CEOs, PR people?  By and large, they are not your friends. No offense intended to brand managers, CEOs or PR people ; ). But be honest with yourself, you're not likely to be invited to their kid's wedding. Don't delude yourself to the contrary.  You might get lucky with a few - and I have, but the true friends will reveal themselves over time, and they are the ones you should always make time for at BaselWorld.

Having said all that - sometimes you will, despite your compulsion to serve up cold cups of coffee, find some true friends and supporters in some very unexpected places.

You will learn to see when people are genuine.  Hold onto those people like a non-treatable social disease.  They have every reason to dislike you based on what you write or say, and yet they are your audience.  And they are your friends indeed.

Rich, famous, important people - are a lot less interesting when you finally meet them.

Little known piece of Henki lore, my father was a country club manager.  Translation?  He worked so that the more well-heeled could play.  I worked in the locker room of the club, my first job working as a shoe shine guy.  Believe it or not, in the 70s and 80s, there was an actual industry based upon shining the shoes of rich people while they walked around a park-like environment, drinking beer and whacking small white balls.  Rich people, famous people?  They are people.  George Steinbrenner was a titan of industry and master manipulator.  I can tell you from personal experience, his shoes smelled just as awful as an orthodontist, dermatologist or mid-level auto executive's.   The one thing all four of these guys had in common?  They were shitty tippers.

I have met some of the big swinging dicks of the industry.  It is all too often underwhelming.

When anyone tells you how amazing you are and how "just as soon as you take advertising, we're in!"  this person should be taken with about as much seriousness as you would take the drunk person asking for $3 on the commuter train so that they can "buy a healthy snack".

We all say a lot of highly dubious stuff when we've been drinking.  That's why your wife/husband/partner learns over the years to apply the bullshit filter.  Make sure you do the same, it will spare you a fair amount of frustration and disappointment.

When you have made it clear by your actions, your writing, and your passion that you are predisposed to write nice things about a brand, and said brand treats you with a fair amount of indifference?  Take it on the heel and toe.  Love needs to be reciprocal.

I am still somewhat miffed by my interaction with a certain member of the SWATCH group.  I gave up a Thanksgiving holiday, spent several hundred dollars of my own money to interview their CEO, and then watched as the outlet that they were on retainer with got so-called "exclusives", review opportunities, etc., and I got the cold shoulder.   To this day, I have no doubt that the North American brand manager of SWATCH GROUP brand X just thinks that I am a difficult person.  But in fairness?  If someone is willing to give you so much for NOTHING?  You can spare a little time and a little effort.  And for what it's worth?  In speaking with retail partners of SWATCH GROUP brand X, they are not exactly selling like the waffle's sexier cousin - the hotcake.

Brands are made up of people.  The brand does not exist without the people.  If a brand has good people - I will do ALL that I can.  If a brand has people that just don't care?  Why should I care about them?

I get the odd comment - "I thought you were a fan of Brand A".  Well, I have come to learn that brands are made of people.  It's not as if the founders of Girard-Perregaux are going to make a special appearance in the physical world to tour me around the factory.  The brand?  The brand is the people who work there.  So put it in another context - do you like spending time with people who treat you poorly?  Of course you don't.  Molly Ringwald's entire career was based on this notion.  A watch is an inanimate object.  It can't speak for itself.  A brand is not simply products.  A brand is the people who make those products, and share that message.   

Brand ambassadors are about as worthwhile as what you wipe your backside with.

There is a reason why Hitler, Stalin and Pol Pot are not mentioned as customers of Brand X.  

Churchill, Napoleon, Lindbergh?  All flawed, all now "ambassadors" from the great beyond.  Well, they won, didn't they? They were all flawed, all had baggage. But they are a whole lot more palatable.  

Question - do you think that the Mario Batali Ernst Benz is a big seller right now?  

Sorry, too soon? 

A brand ambassador will not be there with you when they turn out the lights and escort you out of your now former office.  A former brand that was "ALL IN" can attest to that.

Remember everyone you meet when times are good.  You will see them again on your way back down.  

It is inevitable to fail.  The trick is not to make a habit of it.  More importantly?  Don't be a jackass when times are good.  Sooner or later, it is likely you will fail.  By and large, most of us want to help people and offer our support.  That is, of course, presuming that person behaved, well, like a person when times were good ; )

Don't fake the funk 

Because in the immortal words of that other great commentator on the watch industry Daryl Dawkins:
“When everything is said and done there is nothing left to do or say.” 

Mido on Monday - Commander Shade

Courtesy of Mido

This is one that I have gone back and forth on.  It is a pretty large departure for the "traditional" Commander.  In this iteration, the big change is a  black PVD stainless steel case and bracelet.  

I like the fact that for this version, Mido reverted back to a solid (i.e. non-display) case back.  

Add caption

And in all honest?  I personally feel that is a better choice.  The Commander was designed and "built" on the notion that it was solid, durable, water and dust and other "cooties" were not going to get into it.  It would (and did) run pretty much forever.  

While it might not be for everyone, I personally dig it.

Here are the pertinents for those of you so 
inclined -

CASE:

• Material:

   

  Stainless steel with black PVD coating
• Diameter:

   

  37.00 mm
• Between lugs:

   

  20.00 mm
• Water-resistance:

   

  5 bar (50 m / 165 ft)
• Crystal:

   

  Acrylic glass
• Case height:

   

  10.45 mm

MOVEMENT:

• Movement type:

   

  Automatic
• Automatic Mido Caliber 80 (base ETA C07.621)

  • Date

DIAL:

• Dial colour:

   

  Blue
• Hour Markers:

   

  Applied indexes

BRACELET:

• Milanese mesh in stainless steel with black PVD coating
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  And once again - competitively priced at $810 US
  
  
  
  

Breaking the Sapphire Crystal Ceiling with the Stella Watch Company

Part of what makes covering watches fun is when a new brand comes on the scene.  And the Stella Watch Company looks as if it is going to have something interesting and actually fun to offer a sometimes stuffy industry.  

Courtesy of the Stella Watch Company

The Stella Watch Company has been co-founded by Marcella Dolan, a watch and jewelry industry veteran.

The above watch is the Stella Felix V1. Dress Blues.  

Courtesy of the Stella Watch Company

It is also going to be available in a black dial version V2. 77 Blackout.

But if I were picking, I would lean towards the V5. Downtown Red -

Courtesy of the Stella Watch Company

Sapphire crystal front and back.

Courtesy of the Stella Watch Company

My understanding is that the launch will be sometime in February.

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

Case: Brushed and polished 316L Stainless Steel
Four piece case construction with PVD plating on the case body.

Dimensions: 40mm
Lug to lug: 48mm
Lug width: 20mm. Drilled
Crown: Screw Down

Crystal: Semi-Domed Sapphire with 3 layers of antireflective undercoating
Caseback: Exhibition with Sapphire crystalDial: Linen or Matte finish
Lume: Swiss Super Lumi-Nova C3 and/or BGW9

Movement: STP1-11
Custom Stella Rotor
Blued Screws

Strap: Genuine Leather front and back in pull up or veg tanned leather. 20mm to 18mm taper. Quick release spring bars

Water Resistance: 10 ATM/100 Meter

Individually numbered

SWISS MADE

The Broad Arrow

From Hager Watches -

Courtesy of Hager Watches

This is the latest from Hager. I've said it before, and I am saying it again - I am personally biased towards Hager. I am not indifferent, and I am not impartial. I personally like what they do, and to quote the founder - they make stuff people like, and I am one of those people.

Courtesy of Hager Watches

I got to see the prototypes earlier, and the dial is impressive. It is described by Hager as Gradient Fumé blue sunburst.

The Broad Arrow is available in both a GMT and a time only with sub dial seconds. My understanding is that the movement is from Soprod, but I will confirm that in future.

My understanding is that the Broad arrow is currently available for purchase. For those of you interested, here are the pertinents -

Technical Details GMT

Case

Offered in 42mm or 38mm.  

42mm: Case Thickness: 13mm; Case Height: 49mm

38mm: Case Thickness: 12mm; Case Height: 45.5mm

AISI 316L polished steel

Scratch resistant domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating (AR)

Dial

Gradient Fumé blue sunburst dial

Movement

Swiss Made Automatic GMT movement with 42 hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT

Bracelet

Band Width for the 42mm: 22mm tapers to 20mm

Band Width for the 38mm: 20mm tapers to 18mm

Water Resistance

20 ATM = 660ft

Watch Assemblers - Some Inside Baseball

This is a topic that has been touched on here before, but it seemed worth airing out again in light of an article I just read on a popular retail-cum media outlet regarding the ongoing ETA saga. The article pointed to statements that Hayek the Elder made prior to the launch of ETA's one-way express trip to crazy town. His statement was, essentially, that any asshole could go to a white label company and create their own watch, and by golly, that was WRONG! He referenced a conversation he had with a fashion house who approached him to make a watch for them, and he pulled an Enzo Ferrari on him, essentially telling him to stick to making tractors (or, in this case, suits). Now history will note that the Zegna watch was realized with the assistance of Girard-Perregaux/Sowind, and it fared about as well as could be expected - not very. But I would also remind you, gentle reader, that this bluster came from the fellow who brought us the SWATCH phone, sunglasses, and...

Who could forget that unforgettable fragrance -


                                                                     Courtesy of Omega

Yes, you too can smell just like a Co-Axial escapement! So it would seem that a call is overdue from the kettle to the pot regarding its hue.

While it's easy to look down your nose at someone and tell them to "stick to their lane", it is a bit ironic coming from the man who had his finger in so many pies ; )

It bears mentioning that A LOT of the brands you see out there are using white label companies to assemble their watches. Some quite old and literally dripping in hyperbolic watchmaking lore. So, does this mean that those are no longer real brands?

Now for me looking back? Hayek the senior's hyperbolic characterization about the gall that some brands had in calling themselves, well, brands was a little disingenuous. When we talk about the world of modern (meaning in the last 20 years) watch production, marketing and sales, private label assemblers are responsible for a much larger percentage of the Swiss watch industry than you might think. And I will pick my childhood favorite (and red-headed stepchild of the SWATCH group) Mido as a case in point.

A little over four years ago I found myself in Switzerland on other business and I managed to arrange a visit to Mido HQ in Le Locle. Now curious to relate, the HQ occupied less than a full floor of an administration building that was (at least at that time) shared with Tissot. I had asked if it was possible to visit the factory to see Mido assembly in action, and I received a fairly evasive response that essentially made it clear that for whatever reason, this would not be possible. When I asked where the assembly took place, this again was not anything that anyone was anxious or willing to share with me. Ever wonder why the factory pictures you see for some of the SWATCH brands are all "old timey"? Ever wonder why you don't see other heroic journalists visiting brand production sites other than Omega, Blancpain, and Breguet? Ever see leading horological luminaries of the Fourth and Fifth Estate visiting and reporting on the production facilities of some of the smaller, more affordable, less sexy brands in the SWATCH stable?

Yeah, not so much.

A reasonable assumption would be that the SWATCH group relies on a large internal facility or facilities to assemble these more mass market watches for several of the group's brands. In essence, a private label - private label.  We would all agree that these are real brands, would we not? And for the record, if I am way off base and there is a shiny (or even not-so-shiny) Mido or Certina factory churning out watches in the Alpine hinterlands? Well, I will sit in the corner and wear a funny hat.

But taken with Hayek Senior's hardline stance on what made a brand legitimate?

Well...

Talk Like A Real Watch Pro!

As a public service, I thought I'd take a few minutes and share some of the vernacular that gets bandied around the watch world and particularly at BaselWorld, the SIHH and other venues.

"Nobody likes to hear that their baby is ugly."
Translation?  When you are asked - "What do you think of our novelties?"  You are really being asked - "Could you please offer an affirmation that this watch is great?"

"I'mGonna'stan"
A fictional country that is more a place of the imagination than an actual reality.  I'mGonna'stan is a magical place where everything will happen soon, like tomorrow, and tomorrow never arrives.  

"Pick Your Poison"
Translation - you're screwed either way, and I don't really care.

"My friend"
Translation - You fucking asshole.

"You're just like the Tin-Man"
Translation - You've got no heart.  Usually reserved for sales managers just before they are "freed up to pursue new professional opportunities".

"We don't cover brands like that"
Translation - Pay me, and then maybe we'll cover you.

"We're a small, independent brand and can't afford advertising"
Translation - My best friend's spouse works for another media outlet and we already pay them.  We're not going to pay you now, or ever, but you should still make time to cover us because, you never know ; )

"We don't make any decisions regarding marketing, sales or advertising during (insert BaselWorld, SIHH, JCK, etc.), but shoot me an email in a few weeks and we can follow-up then."
Translation - Of course we make decisions at BaselWorld, SIHH, JCK, etc., we just have no desire to listen to, consider or entertain any proposal that you might be offering.  But!  Here's a nice paper tote bag and an outlandishly heavy catalog (filled with poor spelling and grammatical errors)!  Thanks for stopping by!