Nuking the Fridge with Omega

So it has come to this...

Omega, in their infinite wisdom, have decided that the next new dynamic brand ambassadors need only the benefit of a fortunate birth certificate -

Courtesy of Omega

In a marketing and PR move utterly bereft of imagination and creative thought, Omega decided it made perfect sense to deputize the offspring of Ms. Crawford and her Tequila baron husband Randy Gerber as their new brand ambassadors.  

While they had a perfect opportunity to reach out to audiences that they might not have ever reached if they had collaborated further with Neil deGrasse Tyson and worked to make him a brand ambassador, the brain trust in Bienne thought it made much more sense to trot out two (admittedly striking) young people.  Now granted, their main claim to fame is doing well in the DNA Olympics, but I can't blame the kids for the decisions that Omega makes.  

I would also take great pains to point out that Ms. Crawford has gone above and beyond in her role as brand ambassador with her efforts on behalf of Orbis.  Credit where credit is due.

Having said that, this is one of the goofiest grasps at PR that I have heard of for some time.  

Perhaps the most comical element were the comments from Omega's CEO regarding the thought process behind this choice:

“Kaia and Presley represent the next generation of watch wearers. They are good looking, motivated, inspirational and full of energy. It’s incredible to have such a passionate family tradition within our brand and I’m so excited to begin working with these two young people,” said Raynald Aeschlimann, President & CEO of OMEGA.


Granted, they are good looking.  But please explain to me just how they are motivated and what it is that motivates them?  And just how is it that are they inspirational other than making the less attractive teens out there wish that they had clearer complexions and straighter teeth?  Because what this announcement really sounds like is that these young people are beautiful, and therefore you should want to wear one of our watches as it will make you beautiful too!

Mr. Aeschlimann, I think you are a bit unaware as to what inspirational youth really looks like, so I thought I would take this opportunity to introduce you to one:

Shamelessly borrowed

Malala Yousafzai -
When it would have been easy to shut up, she stood up, got shot in the head for her trouble, and went on to become an even greater hero (and Nobel Prize winner).

And I know, that was an easy one.  But the truth  is that there are thousands of young people all around the world who are doing far more with their time, are truly inspirational, and are actually making a real difference.  Granted, their parents aren't Cindy Crawford and Randy Gerber.

In fairness, Omega does a lot of good in terms of their charity work, and I am one of the few people writing about watches who has really covered it.  But Omega, please don't trot out a press release that is this disingenuous.  You are better than this. 

Which brings us to a previous post which seems pertinent to this topic.  This originally ran last August.

 

Why You Should Not Care Who Wears Your Watch

So this is, perhaps, a cold cup of coffee on a Monday morning.  But like removing a band aid, sometimes you just have to grip it and rip it.

My in-box has been bursting with "seen on the red carpet", and the latest Omega brand ambassador who won a medal, or an astronaut visiting the hospitality tent - and it begs the question -
who the f*&ck cares?

Shameless borrowed from the world-wide info web 

When I was a young man of a certain age, I was obsessed with the Rolex GMT Master - because Thomas Magnum wore one on Magnum PI.  Whether or not this was an intentional product placement or not, it made a big impact.  And it was effective because it was not overt.  And it bears mentioning that Magnum PI was a fictional character ; )

It has been proven by some tiny little brands that hundreds of thousands of dollars do not need to be dispatched to the pockets of famous athletes and entertainers to ensure the longevity of their brand or the desirability of their watches.

Who is the celebrity ambassador for Patek Philippe?  Panerai?  Vacheron Constantin?

Exactly.

And what of other big-boy brands?  Audemars Piguet had Lebron James as a paid ambassador at one point, but clearly nothing lasts forever as he was photographed wearing a Rolex recently.

Hublot was partnered with Manchester United, then they weren't, now they are again - at a cost of mere millions.

And Omega took pains to inform me this morning that a famous fashion designer visited their hospitality tent - needless to say, I wasn't invited - and neither were you for that matter, so why should you care?

The list goes on and on.  And if anyone was honestly looking at the balance sheet for a real understanding on the return of investment gained out of these partnerships, there might be some very uncomfortable questions to be answered.

Which then brings it back to you, gentle reader.  Panerai might have gotten a jump-start from Sylvester Stallone wandering into their boutique way back when, but what is now driving it is the desire people have for their watches.  The same for Patek and others who aren't chugging the PR Kool-Aid.

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide info web

So before you get all worked-up to go and plop down your American Express Unobtainium card to "Be Like Mike" and buy a watch based on a celebrity partnership, just ask yourself:
Are you excited about the watch, or about the person who is paid to wear the watch?  And more importantly, as a consumer is it your responsibility to help fund the vainglorious marketing foibles of a PR office completely devoid of creative ideas?

A Fun Night Out - And What Joseph Abboud Could Teach the Watch Industry

So last night after work, I found myself across the hall at the Boston Public Library listening to Joseph Abboud give what he referred to as a "stream of consciousness" talk about his life and experiences in the world of fashion.

The talk was very entertaining, and I got to ask my question during the Q & A, but perhaps the one thing that stood out the most (and should be of particular interest to those pulling the strings in the various HQs in Bienne, Tokyo and Glashütte) was the answer he gave to a young aspiring designer's question.  Essentially, how did he prepare himself to enter into the world of fashion and succeed at the level that he has, and where did study design.  And what he said echoed something that I have always believed about working in the watch business.  He said that where he really gained the most insight about fashion, where he really trained?  

Working in RETAIL.  

And truthfully this should not be such a radical thought or concept, but it speaks volumes as to how Mr. Abboud has managed to remain relevant for so many years.  The majority of guys and gals calling the shots in the watch business HQs have not rolled up their sleeves and worked a six or seven day week under florescent lighting and hustling for the sale.

But the importance of this is not just about hard work and paying your dues.  It goes well beyond that because, as he himself pointed out, it underscored the importance of knowing your customer, and making it a priority to know what that customer wants.  And that doesn't mean the VIP customer dinner or boutique event.  And in relating these stories he was humble, charming, and very real.  While he did share stories of success and mentioned some of his famous clients, the anecdotes were not so much about the fame, but about the character of these people.  And I am not going to lie, it was pretty damn touching.  Think about how the celebrity ambassador is is talked out by watch executives, all too often their "new best friend" for as long as the contract lasts, and then they are off to the next "new best friend".  But Mr. Abboud spoke thoughtfully and at length about several of these folks with a fondness that was touching, and an enthusiasm that was infectious.

So today's message for the big dogs - stop making and trying to market watches based on what YOU like and want.  Take a bit more time to consider what your customer might want, and try to design and manufacture watches for them.  And consider that what makes an ambassador compelling is when that ambassador is someone that you actually have a relationship with, and not just someone that you wrote a check to.

Enjoy your Thursday!

Ethics and Social Media

So no long preamble.  Straight to the question:

Do you feel that it is ethical for one watch brand to identify another watch company's social media posts and comment on them with part of the message being a request for THE OTHER watch company's followers to come and visit their site?

I ask because this happened recently on Instagram, and Watch company X's response was something along the lines that they were true watch fans and felt that other watch fans would appreciate learning about their brand. 

Again, so that the idea here is clear and easy to understand:

1.  Watch company Y is mentioned favorably on Instagram.
2.  Watch company X "likes" the post and then posts a comment essentially encouraging anyone who will read the comments on the post about company Y to visit their site (company X).


Is this an ethical way to conduct social media?

The 4D Concrete Watch

From 22

Every now and then you get reminded that just because a big brand half-assed an idea and did it poorly, it doesn't necessarily make it a bad idea.

Regular readers will recall that Hublot offered a wildly overpriced concrete dial watch as part of a collaborative effort with a notable artist.  In fairness to the folks in Nyon, they are not going to hit every pitch out of the park.  

Enter the 4D Concrete Watch from 22 -

Courtesy of 22

There have been several watch offerings over the past 17 years (that is as long as I've been following these things anyway), of watches that have gone deep in design to create and offer a watch with depth, contour and a sense of the tactile under the crystal.  Some have done better than others.  

With the newest offering from 22, I think that there might finally be a mechanical watch that goes beyond simple concept and (at least based on the images provided) appears to deliver. 

Courtesy of 22

What is intriguing is the attention to the construction of the dial itself.  There have been other efforts to use concrete and other non-traditional materials, but they have really not been all that they could be.  Focusing more upon the fact that the dial is made of a non-traditional material, rather than using that non-traditional material to make something unique.  

Courtesy of 22

But that is just what it seems 22 has managed to do with the 4D.

The 4D will be available on Kickstarter shortly - stay tuned!

Courtesy of 22

 

The Roma

From Viqueria -

Courtesy of Viqueria

For those of you unfamiliar, Viqueria is a new company based in Italy that will be offering some pretty good looking watches in an upcoming Kickstarter campaign.

Courtesy of Viqueria

It will be available in three different dial versions - silver, blue and black.

The case measures 40 mm in diameter, and is of stainless steel.  The movement is an interesting choice.  Time and date with a 24 hour time indication at 9 o'clock.

Some personal thoughts -
Kickstarter is jammed with watch offerings right now.  Some are more original than others.  But I would also have to say that with so many would be micro brands, the drive to offer something unique at an "amazing price" has led to desk drawers full of thrice worn Kickstarter trophies that now languishing.  So it is somewhat reassuring to see a Kickstarter watch that is not breaking its neck to be so different that it will only be relevant for a few months.  This is a watch that you will want to wear regularly.  And ultimately, isn't that the point?

I will keep you posted when the Viqueria is ready for its Kickstarter launch.
 For now, here are the pertinents, straight from Viqueria -


 Dial

• Hand-applied polished luminescent indexes
• Polished hands with luminescent markers
• Red seconds hand and red repeat hand at 9 o'clock
• Hand-applied Day Date window at 3 o’clock
• Dial external rehaut
• Polished VIQUERIA logo at 12 o'clock
• Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal

 Case

• Case diameter: 40 mm
• Case thickness: 12mm
• Polished fixed steel bezel
• Polished crown with VIQUERIA logo
• Scratch-resistant caseback with engraved logo
• Water resistance: 3atm
• Brushed and Polished steel case
• Push-down with Gasket
• Weight: Approx 110gr

 Movement

• Citizen Miyota 8217, Japan Made
• Automatic calibre, rapid date correction
• Diameter: 26 mm (11 ½''') — 21 jewels
• Balance frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
• Power reserve: 40+ hours
• Complication: 24 hours repeater

 Straps

• Handmade Italian straps by 2DStrap
• 20mm width at the case

The BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

So proof positive that I have been living a somewhat un-examined life - apparently when Bell & Ross has utilized the letter X in its naming conventions, it is to indicate that the watch is part of an experimental range.  Clearly I've been a bit asleep at the switch.

Having said all of that, this is the BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor.

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Here are the pertinents, straight from Bell & Ross HQ:

Movement:
calibre BR-CAL.380. Automatic mechanical.
 
Functions:
hours and minutes. Flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock.

Case:
42.5 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel.

Dial:
skeletonised. Metal applique Superluminova®filled indices. Metal skeletonised Superluminova®filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal:
sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance:
50 metres.

Strap:
grey alligator.

Buckle:
folding. Steel

 

 

 

Seven Days with the QLOCKTWO Fine Steel

Starts now.

Game of Lawn Chairs

Or why perceptions can be misleading.

I guess you could consider this a public service announcement to watch brands, pr agencies and everyone who covers them.

Let's start out with a definition:
influencer
per Dictionary.com:

noun

1.

a person or thing that influences:

The most powerful influencer of beliefs is direct experience.

2.

a person who has the power to influence many people, as through social media or traditional media:

Companies look for Facebook influencers who can promote their brand.

influencer

per Urban Dictionary: 

A makeup, hairstyle, or fashion blogger who is instafamous only on Instagram or buys "followers" and "likes" and gets free products from companys who fall in their trap of fake fame.

Jeff: "So, what do you do for a living?"
Becky: "Im an influencer, I have 200k followers." 

Okay, the topic of influencer and what is real vs. what is horseshit has been a long running battle in the luxury industry - particularly as it pertains to watch marketing. For better or worse, marketing departments are currently staffed by Millennials who suffer from (you guessed it), millennialitis:

The belief of sales, marketing, and advertising professionals that the Millennial demographic represents a completely unique group of consumers and as such, entirely new approaches must be adopted. Even if the product you are trying to sell is intended for a completely different demographic, such as Depends Adult diapers.

I tried to explain to the Creative Director that the hipster didn't represent our customer demographic, but she's got a bad case of millennialitis.

And this has been an ongoing struggle for many of us who cover these things and try to eke out a living, or at least cover the expenses by selling the odd ad. This challenge was compounded when it became clear that several blogs and online magazines were likely employing less than transparent methods to acquire traffic that was less than organic. And then add into the mix the practice of charging fees for coverage and it became the farce that we are all now participating in.

And if we are very honest, this practice has gone on to some extent even before the digital era. Cash, gifts and nice trips are the grease that ease the wheels of watch coverage.

But then came the era of the influencer. And then marketing departments got lazy, and influencers got greedy. Marketing is a slippery and challenging field as its effectiveness is often a very hard thing to measure. And in the age of digital, the success of marketing has been down to one very simple metric - how many clicks or impressions they received.  More often than not this is a misleading or even false measure owing to click farms and other tactics used to boost traffic. Which brings us to a recent announcement and explanation from the FTC, otherwise known as the Federal Trade Commission.

The long and the short of it is this -

If the blogger, writer, influencer is being paid - they must disclose it. If they are not being paid, then they are fine. But this is currently not really how it has been working.

For those of you interested in the exact language and how this is outlined by the FTC, you can find it here -

The FTC’s Endorsement Guides: What People Are Asking

Maybe, just maybe we will be playing on a level playing field from here on out.

Is the Recovery Real?

The results for August are in, and strictly looking at the numbers, they would appear very encouraging.

Courtesy of the FH

And in fairness, they show a very positive trend.  The export numbers are, indeed, up.  But the tell-tale realities remain - sales are not up to a level that would clearly state that things are back to normal.  And that remains the $64,000 Question - when will the export numbers truly measure the strength and stability of the Swiss Watch Industry?

One key time period we should all be waiting on is the first (and possibly second) quarter of next year.  As I and many others have mentioned - the new standards for what make a Swiss watch "Swiss" go into effect, and there is a not so subtle push to get as much product outside of the borders of Switzerland as possible before the odometer turns on January 1.  Export numbers are simply that - export numbers.  They do not tell us whether manufacturing numbers are up, they do not tell us that sales are up.  When we are talking about the major groups, all that they are really telling us is that products have been transferred from HQ to a subsidiary.  

Now one other interesting item to consider - the US market is STILL down.  And in fact it is down nearly 5%.  Also interesting to relate with that number being as low as it is, the US is still #2 in global exports...  
I am no economist and am not on the shortlist to replace the current Secretary of Commerce, but the numbers don't really make sense.

We will wait and we will see - and hopefully we'll see an actual recovery.  But what we in the press, and many of you consumers have absolutely no way of knowing - is just how much of this export increase is due to a business improvement, and how much of it is a flush of product prior to January 1?

To be really, really clear - I personally want to see things improve.  I am tired of reporting on less than inspiring results.  But the industry, and those who ran the brands and wrote the checks have spent the last 7 years pigging out and forgetting the lessons that they should have taken to heart then.  Let's see if the lesson sticks this time.

Stay tuned.

CHALLENGE CHRONO II ERIC KUSTER

Yes, the same folks who brought you that "edgy" and "disruptive" short film featuring a notable star of French cinema kissing bullets and crediting his precision timepiece for his success in blasting Bambi's brains out are back! 

Courtesy of Cvstos

Now a few brief words about beauty - it is clearly subjective and what appeals to me certainly will not appeal to everyone else out there.  But I have to be honest, this one does not turn my aesthetic crank.

From a promotional perspective, I am equally challenged to understand this watch.  Now in fairness, I am not a subscriber to Architectural Digest, and for all I know Eric Kuster is (at least in an interior design sense) bigger than Elvis.  

I will leave it with you to draw your own conclusions.

The KLOK-08

From Klokers -

Courtesy of Klokers

The team from Klokers is back with an exciting new offering that is launching on Kickstarter.  Ladies and Gentlemen, and children of all ages, allow me to introduce the KLOK-08!

As the proud owner of the first KLOK-01s I have to say that this new offering is an exciting new iteration of the slide rule style.  As a comparison, here is my KLOK-01 -

You will note that the dial uses a slightly different layout with a slightly smaller sized font used for the minute wheel and a non-numeric second wheel.  And I have to say that it is a great variation on the original.

Courtesy of Klokers

The design team also stretched their palettes a bit, adding a gold tone case and crown.  While the romantic in me loves the original 01 for the wonderful color combinations, I have to be honest that this new take on the KLOKER's concept is equally satisfying for the same visceral reaction it brought me when I first saw the images.  This is something special.

Courtesy of Klokers

The colors that were selected are a bit more somber, offering a  pleasantly aged look.  All three offerings are at once timeless, and yet beguiling in their originality.  

Here are the pertinents, straight from the team in France:

KLOK-08
TIME DISPLAY
Two concentric disks turning counter- clockwise to indicate the time along the vertical axis in the top of the dial 
MATERIALS
Stainless steel casing and triple injected dial glass with integrated magnifying lens 
COLORS
White and pink gold; black and
beige; warm grey and orange.
DIMENSIONS
39 mm diameter x 10 mm high
WEIGHT
(with strap): 60 g
KLOKERS KEY
Patented xing system (stainless steel 316L) push-button at 8h to unlock KLOK-08
from its support (strap or accessory) 
MOVEMENT
Quartz counter-clockwise - Ronda Swiss Made
WATER RESISTANCE
30 m / 3 atm 

STRAPS
MATERIALS
4 types of straps : leather, alcantara, textile, steel milanese
COLORS
Leather: matte black, blue, caramel, yellow 
Alcantara: orange
Textile: mouse grey, lichen green, black 
Milanese: silver, black pink
LENGTH
230 mm
KLOKERS KEY
Patented xing system (stainless steel 316L) push-button at 8h to unlock KLOK-08 from its support (strap or accessory) 

The BR V2-94 Bellytanker

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

There is something quite wonderful happening at Bell & Ross.  They are re-discovering their (admittedly not too ancient) roots, and in doing so offering some truly fantastic watches.  While I realize that there is a fair amount of enthusiasm about the Instrument collection, I have always been personally drawn to the pieces that make up the BRV models that are part of what is referred to as the Vintage collection.  But having said that, the line was getting a wee bit flat.  Like Henry Ford's Model T, you could have any model you wanted, so long as it was black.  I kid a bit here, because there had been some options like silver, or in the case of the Aeronvale, a stunning blue.  

But with the release of the GARDE-CÔTES, and now the BELLYTANKER, there is a fresh new take on a classic collection that has this Bell & Ross fan excited!

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

In fairness, I have not seen this model in person, so all that I have to go by are the images and the spec. sheet.  Having recently reviewed a "gently used" Bell & Ross chronograph ( The 2 Year Review ) I have to say that I came to really appreciate the tachymeter scale on the bezel.  The addition of screw-down push pieces greatly adds to the sporty look of the watch, but does so gently, and subtly.  It does not hit you over the head screaming - "I'm a sport watch, dammit!".  Rather, it lures you in, seductively.  

The dial is one that is going to haunt me for some time.  It is pleasingly different from what is available on the market.  What Bell & Ross describes as metallic copper and black.  It pops without overwhelming.  I hope at some point that a review might be possible, but I have to go with what is real - a visual impression (a very positive one), and the spec. sheet, which you can get the pertinents from below:

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o'clock. Date. 

Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o'clock, central chronograph seconds.

Case: 41 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Steel bezel with tachymeter scale. Screw-down crown and push-buttons. Sapphire case-back. 

Dial: gilt. Metal applique numerals and indices. Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands.

Crystal: ultra-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating. 

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Straps: satin-polished steel or brown calfskin.

The Pharo Big Date with Power Reserve

From Limes -

Courtesy of Limes

Here are the pertinents -
Technical details

Movement	Decorated Swiss hand wound movement ETA 2892-2 TOP with big date and power reserve, blued stainless steel screws, Geneva stripes and Perlage, LIMES logo
Watch case	ICKLER made stainless steel case, polished and brushed, distinct vertical lines on circumference, diameter 40,5mm, thickness 11mm, domed sapphire crystal A/R coated, mineral crystal display back, crown with Ickler logo, waterresistant 5 ATM
Dial	Silvered dial with Clou-de-Paris and Sunray Guilloché patterns, fine Roman numerals
Hands	Blue Breguet hands
Band	Black leather, width 20mm, wrist size: 18 - 22cm

The City Editions

From Meister Singer -

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

The series embraces 44 cities, and offers an evocative view of the city -

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

This is the Montreal.  

Each of these City Editions is limited to 10 pieces per each city.  

As near as I can tell, the dial is the same for every version, and the one City Edition that is different (at least on the "face of things") is the Rotterdam - EUROMAST -

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

The cities include:

Alkmaar
Amersfoort
Amsterdam
Andorra
Apeldoorn
Arnhem
Barcelona
Berlin
Bern
Brussels
Den Haag

Freiburg
Füssen
Göttingen
Groningen
Haarlem
Hongkong
Husum
Jerusalem
Köln
Leiden
Lisboa

London
Lëtzebuerg
Lyon
Madrid
Montreal
München
Münster
New York
Nijmegen
Palma de Mallorca
Paris
Paris – Le Bon Marché

Praha
Rotterdam
Rotterdam - EUROMAST
San Sebastián
Singapore
Sydney
Tokyo
Toronto
Utrecht
Wien
Zürich

 

And here are the pertinents, straight from MeisterSinger -

Sellita SW 210
Hand-wound
Diameter 25,6 mm
Height 3,4 mm
17 jewels
28.800 semioscillations per h - 4Hz
Power reserve 42 h

Embargo, Exlusive, and the Game

This first ran a while back, but it seems to still be a problem.  So I thought I'd reheat it for you -

For A Few Dollars More

So, some interesting watch news came out these past few weeks which you did not, and will not read about here. 

Brand PR staff as well as press agencies sent press releases under strict embargo.  They dressed these announcements with sugary phrases like "we really appreciate all of your support" and "we think you're really swell!"

Now what I and many of my colleagues in the fourth and fifth estate have come to discover is that, in fact, the reason for the embargo or intentional delay in sending the press release is because Brand X has, in some instances made an advertising deal with another outlet and part of that advertising deal is not only that Brand X pays a fee to run / promote the brand's item, but they lock down a media black out for everyone else, therefore conveying sense that they are somehow "more in the know", better connected, etc.  And of course when you get the release and post it 1, 2 or even 3 days in advance of everyone else, it would be reasonable to assume that you are somehow better informed.

An exclusive, gentle reader, is the idea that a writer has cultivated a special relationship with a brand, and owing to this, the brand trusts that one writer or outlet to handle their exclusive story or announcement.  Now in the "good old days", that meant communication, effort, hard work and sharing on both parts.  And if you were a big dog that might also mean that some money might have changed hands - but the idea of an exclusive meant that only one outlet would have the item.  And I think that is fair enough.  But an exclusive did not mean that the brand or agency would pay for the exclusive advance release, and then send the EXACT SAME RELEASE with the intention of paying one big outlet, and expecting everyone else to "carry the water".  It's a bit disingenuous and is guaranteed to engender a less-than warm and fuzzy feeling.

To be VERY CLEAR - this is not a judgment about any outlet and how they go about doing their business.  This is very much up to them, and if they can build a better mousetrap?  Well more power to them.  But to the brand representatives and pr agencies, don't expect the rest of us to wag our tails like little puppies under the dinner table waiting for the scraps to fall onto the floor.  We work just as hard, and many of us do it for free.  Don't be shocked or surprised when we don't want to roll on our backs and show you our tummies.

Either do an exclusive or don't, but don't half-ass it.

The Marine Chronometer Annual Calendar Monaco

From Ulysse Nardin -

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

Here are the pertinents -

Reference:
1133-210LE-3/40-MON

Limited Edition:
100 pieces

Movement:
caliber UN-113
In-house designed movement
Silicium escapement and spring,
28’800 v/h 55 jewels

Power Reserve:
approximately 60 hours

Winding:
self-winding

Functions:
chronometer COSC with
power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock,
annual calendar, backward/forward setting,
with months indicator at 6 o’clock small direct
seconds and round date window at 6 o’clock

Case:
stainless steel

Bezel:
fluted, stainless steel

Dial:
white lacquered with roman numerals in blue

Crown:
screw down security crown, covered with rubber

Diameter:
43 mm

Water Resistance:
100 meters

Crystal:
anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Case Back:
open case back with sapphire crystal

Strap:
rubber strap with titanium element and folding clasp


 

 

 

 

Doing Good - MB&F and Only Watch

Courtesy of MB&F

This year's Only Watch auction promises to be something special.  And although I am not in their demographic in terms of disposable income (educators are in it for the love, not the money), I am a fan for sur!

But beyond technical prowess, this year's effort solidified my belief in the power of fun!

Courtesy of MB&F

Now usually, when the designer gets revealed, it is a crusty old guy (not unlike this writer) in a heroic pose in front of impossibly complicated devices and machinery.  Allow me to introduce you to the artist behind this collaborative piece -

Courtesy of MB&F

ABOUT THE ARTIST

Cassandra Legendre is a 15-year-old student in Madrid, Spain with mixed French and Swiss parentage. Since the age of five, she has been trained in classical ballet and is currently enrolled in Victor Ullate Escuela, founded by the dancer that Maurice Béjart called one of the most complete ballet dancers of the 20^th century.

Although Legendre’s ultimate aim is to become a professional ballet dancer, her art is also a strong part of her life. Her drawings form the main part of her work, and are done completely freehand in black felt pen.

Apart from drawing and ballet, Legendre is also passionate about a wide range of film genres and is particularly interested in the dialogue aspects of screenwriting.

And because I think that MB&F went way above and beyond with this effort, here is the rest of the release in their own words -

HOROLOGICAL MACHINE N°8 “ONLY WATCH”

DRIVING SUPPORT FOR CHILDREN LIVING WITH DUCHENNE MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY

The biennial Only Watch auction, widely recognised as the world’s most high-profile charity watch event, returns in 2017. For the fourth time, MB&F is contributing a unique edition of one of their Machines to Only Watch, to be sold in aid of Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a genetic disorder characterised by progressive muscle degeneration primarily affecting young boys.

The base of this pièce unique is Horological Machine N°8, an automotive-inspired creation that takes design cues from the legendary high-octane Can-Am race. Engraved and metallised on the sapphire crystal pane that surmounts the HM8 engine is a whimsical drawing created by 15-year-old Cassandra Legendre. A student currently living in Madrid, Legendre’s primary method of artistic expression is ballet, but she also produces remarkable drawings in her spare time. As an exception for MB&F’s contribution to Only Watch, Legendre and her family agreed to this one-off participation to strengthen the message of HM8 Only Watch — a child creating something to help children who have been denied many of the dreams and opportunities of childhood.

Both intricate and simple, an approach that perfectly matches MB&F’s sophisticated yet direct approach to watchmaking, the illustration captures childhood objects of joy in a continuously drawn frame. Despite being in her mid-teens, Legendre possesses the rare touch of communicating the perspectives of someone much younger, perspectives that still retain much of the innocence and whimsy that we lose as we grow up. Look closely at the drawing and you can spot a robot, a jet plane, a toy car and a jellyfish, visual touchstones that originate in the life and creations of MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser, and resonate with children everywhere. There are also elements of pure childlike delight, such as the ice-cream cone, football, sunglasses and video game controller.

These are items that evoke histories both personal and universal, which every MB&F creation taps into with its design and message. The motif of unity and connectedness is further brought out in the journey of Cassandra Legendre’s art from initial sketch to its final form on HM8 Only Watch. According to Legendre, the drawing started out as something to keep her occupied during a dull mathematics lesson — a familiar youthful experience for many of us! — and was later discovered through social media by Maximilian Büsser after her parents encouraged her to upload her art to Facebook.

One of the elements in Legendre’s drawing is given particular prominence in the HM8 Only Watch. The elephant, situated under the racing-inspired roll bar closest to the minutes disc, is reproduced in three dimensions between the optical prisms. Positioned on a tiny white-gold plinth, the micro-sculpture hand-crafted by Oliver Kuhn is a striking allusion to the majestic beast that occupies large swathes of children’s literature from Kipling to Disney. For those suffering from Duchenne muscular dystrophy, or indeed any serious health condition, the elephant’s status as an endangered animal under siege and facing an uncertain future holds particular significance and relevance. The elephant is made of white gold and took 120 hours to complete, with its trunk tucked in and ears pulled back in a peaceful pose. Particular care and attention was paid to details such as the tusks, which measure 0.2mm in diameter at their finest point, and the eyes, measuring 0.18mm in diameter.

Where previously there was a double-screwed plate engraved with the MB&F logo, the HM8 Only Watch has a white-gold disc depicting a happy face, or smiley, with the two screws now forming its eyes. It is the ultimate symbol of the childlike perspective that Legendre brings to Horological Machine N°8 Only Watch, which is also found in all those who feel aligned with the creative drive of MB&F.

HM8 ONLY WATCH : TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Distinctive feature:

This pièce unique HM8 in white gold and titanium features a sapphire crystal engraved with a drawing created by 15-year old Cassandra Legendre, along with a miniature white gold elephant sculpture standing between the hours and minutes.

Engine

Three-dimensional engine conceived and developed by MB&F from a Girard-Perregaux base calibre

Automatic battle-axe winding rotor in 22k gold with purple PVD

Power reserve: 42 hours

Balance frequency: 28,800bph / 4Hz

Number of components: 251

Number of jewels: 30

Functions/indications

Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes displayed by two optical prisms that both reflect and magnify

Case

Material: 18K white gold and grade 5 titanium

Dimensions: 49 mm x 51.5 mm x 19 mm

Number of components: 60 components

Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm

Sapphire crystals

All sapphire crystals – front, back, top, bottom – treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces. Top plate metallised and laser engraved with a drawing.

Strap & buckle

Black hand-stitched alligator strap with white gold folding buckle.