Showing posts with label Bienne. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bienne. Show all posts

Thursday, September 28, 2017

A Fun Night Out - And What Joseph Abboud Could Teach the Watch Industry

So last night after work, I found myself across the hall at the Boston Public Library listening to Joseph Abboud give what he referred to as a "stream of consciousness" talk about his life and experiences in the world of fashion.


The talk was very entertaining, and I got to ask my question during the Q & A, but perhaps the one thing that stood out the most (and should be of particular interest to those pulling the strings in the various HQs in Bienne, Tokyo and Glashütte) was the answer he gave to a young aspiring designer's question.  Essentially, how did he prepare himself to enter into the world of fashion and succeed at the level that he has, and where did study design.  And what he said echoed something that I have always believed about working in the watch business.  He said that where he really gained the most insight about fashion, where he really trained?  

Working in RETAIL.  

And truthfully this should not be such a radical thought or concept, but it speaks volumes as to how Mr. Abboud has managed to remain relevant for so many years.  The majority of guys and gals calling the shots in the watch business HQs have not rolled up their sleeves and worked a six or seven day week under florescent lighting and hustling for the sale.

But the importance of this is not just about hard work and paying your dues.  It goes well beyond that because, as he himself pointed out, it underscored the importance of knowing your customer, and making it a priority to know what that customer wants.  And that doesn't mean the VIP customer dinner or boutique event.  And in relating these stories he was humble, charming, and very real.  While he did share stories of success and mentioned some of his famous clients, the anecdotes were not so much about the fame, but about the character of these people.  And I am not going to lie, it was pretty damn touching.  Think about how the celebrity ambassador is is talked out by watch executives, all too often their "new best friend" for as long as the contract lasts, and then they are off to the next "new best friend".  But Mr. Abboud spoke thoughtfully and at length about several of these folks with a fondness that was touching, and an enthusiasm that was infectious.

So today's message for the big dogs - stop making and trying to market watches based on what YOU like and want.  Take a bit more time to consider what your customer might want, and try to design and manufacture watches for them.  And consider that what makes an ambassador compelling is when that ambassador is someone that you actually have a relationship with, and not just someone that you wrote a check to.

Enjoy your Thursday!

Wednesday, August 16, 2017

The Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Master Chronometer

A new limited edition from Omega -

Courtesy of Omega
I got a chance to see it at BaselWorld, and it is an intriguing take on a world timer layout.  Although it is not really my cup of espresso, it was well received by the horological cognoscenti this past March. 
Courtesy of Omega
And that's not all!  

Eddie Redmayne is apparently an Omega ambassador.  And, apparently, the folks in Biel/Bienne believe this is somehow important for you to know, so stop the press! 

Saturday, July 8, 2017

The Multiply

By Horage -



Courtesy of Horage

Following their first two successful Kickstarter campaigns, Horage is back with a third project that is likely to eclipse the previous two projects not only in terms of participants, but money raised.  And they are doing it with a slightly different approach.  Through this project, you now have the opportunity to design your own personal Horage with Horage's configurator.


Monday, March 20, 2017

A Grand Day Out - A Visit to Horage

So Monday before the BaselWorld madness, I was able to drop in on the folks behind the new Horage watch at their Biel/Bienne HQ -


Bigger is better... not always!  Horage is a small, motivated, highly skilled team making watches (and movements, but more on that later) one at a time.


And while regular readers are familiar with the current Horage Array, it was not without a large amount of interest I got to lay my eyes on what preceded the recent darling of Kickstarter (pictured above).

This was the Horage JONAS K1 -


Courtesy of Horage
This was the first salvo fired by Horage, and it provided the foundation for more to come.

Courtesy of Horage

While similar to the current Horage Array, it is still, well, different.  But it provided the start, and starts are important!

I'll be picking this up tomorrow, like Horage with the Jonas, we're just getting started!

Stay tuned!

Monday, March 6, 2017

You Get To Pick 1 - Speedmaster

As it would seem that the Speedy Tuesday special release has already been snapped up, if I were picking something currently available from Omega, it would have to be the Speedmaster Professional.
Courtesy of Omega
It continues to fascinate me that Omega tends to change and modify the Seamaster faster than a fashion blogger's outfit on any given day during Fashion Week, the Speedmaster Professional tends to maintain its iconic look and feel.  And there is a reason for that.  You can't really improve on it. 

Here are the pertinents -

Case - Steel 42 mm 
Water resistance - 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet) 
Crystal - Hesalite crystal 
Dial - Black 

Movement -
Calibre: Omega 1861
Manual-winding chronograph movement 
Rhodium-plated finish.
Power reserve: 48 hours
Type: Manual-winding

Thursday, March 2, 2017

Huh... part deux

I want to get it, want to understand it, but I just don't.

I suspect it is not new news to regular readers, but to be clear, I am no fan of Invicta.  And in fairness, I therefore do not cover them.

Having said that, many people had mixed emotions when Invicta purchased Glycine.  My feeling at the time was that Glycine was drowning and they needed oxygen (or more specifically, money), and that so long as Invicta was treating this as a purchase/investment and tried to help Glycine recover from the mess it was in, well then it would not necessarily be a bad thing.

But then some interesting things started happening - Glycine watches began to run fast and thick in the grey market and it was clear that the intention was to liquidate large portions of the previous collections.  While this might have quickly infused some much needed cash, it had two other consequences -

1.  Retail partners, you know the ones who you had been working with and encouraging to buy your watches?  They were really not happy and the current number of retail partners in the US appears to have thinned and reflects that sentiment.

2. Previous customers and Airman devotees felt that Glycine had simply abandoned them as they watched the resale value of their collections plummet.

Interesting to relate, new Glycine Airman models have popped up on the Glycine website and to put it gently, they are pretty underwhelming -


Courtesy of Glycine
And maybe, just maybe it might be necessary for Glycine to simply go bland.  Ultimately, it is a business, and they have to run it the way they see fit, but why in God's name would I, the consumer, would pay full price or even a modest discount when I can pick up a fire sale priced Airman from the light grey market?

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/glycine-airman-18-automatic-watch

https://www.touchofmodern.com/sales/glycine-15ff1e7e-5751-4d43-850d-3e0c5f9d659f#

Again, brands have to do what they have to do, but if they continue to slash and burn to clear stock at less than 30 cents on the dollar, they continue to do irreparable damage to themselves.  And what makes me really frustrated when I think about Glycine and other brands out there doing dumps in the light grey market?  They could simply open their own damn online shop, and offer the occasional special offer to ease overstock without simply dumping it and gutting their own market.  And in the process they would not only solve short-term cash flow problems, they would strengthen the bond between themselves and their customers who felt that they got a good deal, and that their loyalty was rewarded - not taken for granted.

Nothing can stay the same forever, but I will hang onto my Airman for now, and hope that more long-term planning will emerge from the Glycine/Invicta brain trust.



Thursday, October 27, 2016

Catching up with Horage

So last Saturday found me down in the big city to visit a few clients and see some new watches.  And one of the brands that made a bit impression was Horage.

 
Andi Felsl Head of Strategy
Change is what is sorely needed in the watch business, and change is what Horage is offering on a lot of levels beyond mere watch making.  But more on that later, we'll stick to the watches for now.  Most specifically the Array -


 
Horage

ARRAY K1 39mm SS-BB

This watch and it's three partners started life on Kickstarter, but if my information is correct, these will be shipping in the next few months.

 

ARRAY K1 39mm SS-WW

ARRAY K1 39mm SS-GG

 


 
A manufacture movement, hours, minutes, second, big date and power reserve indicator.


Stay tuned!