Ernst Benz at BaselWorld

 So  earlier this week I had the chance to catch up with the Ernst Benz team.

BaselWorld - It's a Jungle IN THERE!

So it seems clear that the folks at Edelberg don't like to sit back and wait for trends. They like to set them!

Something Particularly Cool from Glycine

Don't worry, lots of good stuff from Glycine that I will be posting shortly. But this is a piece that is possibly going to be released out to the world later this year.

An Open Letter to the Watch Industry Executives

Dear Watch Industry Executives,

I write this letter tonight from Lucerne, Switzerland to inform you of the third phase of the Tempus Fugit Initiative.  The first phase is the Edelberg Writing Wrongs award which was presented this past Thursday to Fonderie 47.

The second phase is a partnership with a wonderful watch brand and a very worthy charitable organization which I will give more background on in the coming days.  

But to quote my old grand dad - sometimes you have to put your fear of failure to one side, and dare to try and move the world (even in a small way) so here is my best effort:

Let's work together to end human trafficking.  And believe it or not, my request to you is small in terms of your commitment.  I am challenging every watch brand out there who feels that they can afford it, to select one model or product family, and commit 1% of the profits from the sales as a donation to a foundation to fight human trafficking.  Now, I know what you're thinking - WIFM?  (or as we used to say at Starbucks, What's in it for me?")  Well, to be honest, it is the chance to do something good for people who are helpless.  And maybe I need to put this more starkly -  what if it was your daughter or son?  Does it seem important to you now?

Now, having walked around BaselWorld and seeing the sheer scale of spending... no offense, you can afford it, and there is still an upside - charitable contributions help your tax situation ; )

I'm all in - who is with me?

You know where to reach me.

Sincerely,

James Henderson
Chief Messenger
Tempus Fugit Media

A BaselWorld Visit from the Folks from Arthur Oskar Stampfli

So I came back to my "home away from home" office at the Naldi's space at the Ramada, and who did I meet?  

NOMOS is all wet

And so the folks from Glashutte have now come up with something you can splash around with. 

The Chinese Timekeeper at BaselWorld

With it being the year of the snake, rest assured the Chinese Timekeeper would come up with something extra special for their Lunar New Year offering!

BaselWorld Heroes 2013 - Part Two

So I had a very interesting (AND ENJOYABLE) lunch meeting with the very kind people from Ebner Publishing and several bloggers from around Europe - with me being the lone American!  And we were talking about our contacts at the various watch companies and who goes above and beyond - and yes names were named!  So those of you in the watch industry who do so much to help us - thank you!

And sometimes you get very lucky - sometimes you run into someone who just GETS IT.  And in terms of this past year for me - that person is Paul Erhardt, the US brand manager for JEANRICHARD.

BaselWorld Heroes 2013 - Part One

Public Relations/Communications is a challenging job.  Many people think that they do it well, very few actually do.  So once a day for the remainder of BaselWorld I will be identifying those who I think go above and beyond.

And at the very "Very Tippy Top" of the list is Eterna's Manon Vauthier!  I work with and deal with PR and Communication people and I say without fear of being wrong - she is the prototype of what a watch brand's PR person should be.  Friendy, professional and always representing Eterna and Porsche Design in the best possible light!

What's Cool?

One of the best things I've seen so far you will not find in any booth at BaselWorld.  But to know what's coming, we've got to remind ourselves of where it came from.  This is Peter Robert's "student" watch from when he attended WOSTEP.  At that time it was the first watch with five different centrally mounted hands.

Based on the the Valjoux 726

The Trouble with Rumors

We all love rumors.  Anyone in the watch industry or anyone who follows the watch industry who claims that they don't enjoy a juicy rumor is either a liar, or boring - or both!

A week or so ago, I wrote on the current state of the "unknown" surrounding Anonimo.  there had been a great deal of rumors.  Everyone was convinced that the company was dead, on the road to ruination, taken over by "evil-doers" who didn't understand Anonimo's fans - couldn't possibly in a million years.

My own comment was that the brand that was proudly made in Firenze was now made in Switzerland.

Well today found me sitting down with two of the new people guiding Anonimo and getting the rest of the story, and suffice it to say - Anonimo will have some changes - but will still in many ways be the same Anonimo.

Courtesy of Anonimo

Peter Speake-Marin at BaselWorld

So BaselWorld kicked off with some time spent with Peter Speake-Marin.

Peter was kind enough to show me his latest video presentation - very impressive so stay tuned for that!

And his latest creation - the Triad!  And this is a seriously cool watch.  It is from the Mechanical Art Collection and it is even more impressive than in person.

Triad is the first piece in Speake-Marin’s Mechanical Art collection and features triple hour-minute indications over a superb open dial, all set in a steel case crowned with a regal red gold bezel. 

Limited to 88 pieces, stainless steel with a red gold bezel.

Meet the New Boss, Just Like the Old Boss... Not Always

This just in from Corum yesterday -

Montres Corum announces the acquisition of its shareholding by China Haidian Holdings Limited.
As a result of this agreement, China Haidian becomes the sole owner of the watch company, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

This strategic agreement fulfills the long term vision of both partners for the continued development and growth of the Corum brand.  It will allow China Haidian to anchor its position in the Swiss Haute Horlogerie by reinforcing its other activities and open for Corum new prospects for development and strengthen the positioning of its brand worldwide.

Readers may draw what conclusions they will.

The Best Week of the Year!

Christmas is fine, Thanksgiving all well and good, and I do like lamb so Easter is right up there.  But for my money, this is the best week of the year!

BaselWorld 2013 has started, let the insanity begin!
  

Wrapping up the Terrascope

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

Okay, all good things must come to an end, and as I don't feel that I would do particularly well in prison, the Terrascope made its way back home yesterday.

I want to briefly sum up what the nearly two-weeks have been like with this watch.  First and foremost, this has got to be one of the nicest watches I've reviewed in some time.  A big part of that is that it speaks to what I consider a very undervalued demographic - a well made, good looking watch that performs well and can be worn in pretty much any circumstance.  It is rugged, and at the same time refined.  The lines are smooth, yet defined.  If Le Corbusier were alive TODAY and were to design a watch I think that this might reflect his feelings.  Strong, functional (while not being purely utilitarian) and beautiful.

So let's hit the facts:

MOVEMENT - the movement is a self-winding "industrial" movement - meaning something from ETA or Selitta.  No, it is not one of the in-house movements that are found at the higher end of the JR range and were formerly in more of the collection.  Thanks to the use of this movement, the price is kept at a level that is realistically affordable.

The movement performed flawlessly, with deviations in the +3 to +5 per day range.  Power reserve was a little better than I anticipated and was as advertised at 42 hours.   Here are the specs:

Movement JR60, self-winding
Calibre : 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/ hour (4 Hz)
Jewels : 21
Power reserve: minimum 42 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date

CASE - As I have been saying, the case along with the bracelet are truly wonderful.  It is not a small watch measuring 46 mm, but you don't really feel like you're wearing something that big.  

That is because of the design of the case itself.  It is smooth where it should be, with no sharp edges.  This allows the watch to seemingly conform to the wearer's wrist.

This is also true of the bracelet which apparently went through quite a few iterations before the design team was satisfied with it.

The watch is rated to 100 meters and accomplishes this without a screw down crown.  While I did not go down to the "briny deep", I did take it for a few splashes here in Santa Barbara, and nice and dry.  Here are the specs:

Polished and vertically satin-finished stainless steel case
Dimensions : 46.00 mm (3-9h)
Height : 12.60 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Case-back screw-down, engraved
Water-resistant to 100 m

DIAL - The Dial is beautiful - black with a textured effect that really makes an impression.  The indices are clearly marked and it is a very easy watch to read in terms of hours, minutes and seconds.

The lume is (unlike my photography skills) beyond reproach -

My only suggestion/request would be to have a more legible date.  Now, when compared to similar watches I don't think it is any better or worse, but perhaps a slightly magnified date aperture without going the way of the cyclops?  Sadly some of us are not as young as we once were, and although Wendy hasn't had to size me up for a pair of Depends yet, my eyes had a little difficulty getting the date at first glance.

Here are the specs:

Black vertically satin-finished dial
Luminescent indexes
Rhodium-coated hands with luminescent material

BRACELET - for those of you with sensitivity to "blue language" please avert your eyes.  When the bracelet is combined with the watch the effect is (to quote Francis Zaneti, the Poet Laureate of Seregin's in San Francisco) "The shit that killed Elvis!"  Yes it is that amazingly, wonderfully, poetically good.  The looks are very nice, but the FEEL is beyond nearly anything I've had on my wrist for some time.  Strong, but flexible.  Smooth and not chunky.  It is the perfect match to the watch.  No fold-over clasp, but rather a butterfly clasp with two wee buttons to release and open it.  The bracelet does not hang, but rather drapes to conform to the shape of the wrist, not the other way round.

The watch is also available with leather, and I believe a rubber strap as well.  And the nice thing is that they have all been designed to be interchangeable.

So to sum up, I go back to one of my earlier points.  Executives in the watch industry are often mesmerized by the idea of million dollar watches, or "courting" that one special collector who will dig deep enough for their higher end offerings.  But what I particularly like about this watch is that in so many ways it underscores the reversal of fortunes at JEANRICHARD.  No longer a brand cranking out endless variations of different watches.  Now we can see what the brand is all about.  It seems (at least to me) like a watch company that is realizing that there is a nice, large market place of people out there who want A (as in one) really good watch.  It might be that one day they'll buy a Patek, or a Girard-Perregaux, but for the here and now this is what they want - and more importantly to my way of thinking - what they can reasonably afford.  Moreover, in taking this direction and particularly with this collection, JEANRICHARD realizes that there are a WHOLE lot more customers out there than the die-hard watch geek.  And I say that as a bit of a watch geek myself!  So in many ways JEANRICHARD have created a watch that covers both audiences, the serious watch people who appreciate the value, and the as yet to be "kissed" watch novice who wants a beautiful timekeeper for their wrist.  

So here's to that first kiss!

De Bethune DB25 Imperial Fountain

This just in from De Bethune -

"There was, in a corner of the world, a wonder of the world; this wonder was called the Summer Palace. Art has two principles, the Idea, which produces European art, and the Chimera, which produces oriental art. The Summer Palace was to chimerical art what the Parthenon is to ideal art. All that can be begotten of the imagination of an almost extra-human people was there. It was not a single, unique work like the Parthenon. It was a kind of enormous model of the chimera, if the chimera can have a model. Imagine some inexpressible construction, something like a lunar building, and you will have the Summer Palace..."
Victor Hugo, in a letter to Captain Butler Hauteville House, November 25th 1861

DB25 Imperial Fountain

Courtesy of De Bethune

BaselWorld - Thunder Cats are GO!

This year's BaselWorld  promises to be one of the best yet, but on a personal level what I am really looking forward to is the actual time I will have WITHOUT appointments!  Yes, I have an appointment with everyone I wanted to see, but this year I have made a point of allowing for some actual "James time" throughout the days, so the result will hopefully be actual conversations with actual people about actual things rather than just the same old product run through!  In other words, actual content that might hopefully be actually worth reading!

I will be reporting daily starting Thursday. 

In particular I am looking forward to MB & F, Speake Marin, Auguste Reymond, OMEGA and also Tissot - I'm hoping to see one of their World Timers up close!

The nice thing about this is I will have more time to actually walk the halls and hopefully discover some new things - so stay tuned as I'm hoping to share some new/under appreciated things.

A visit to the ochsenspace is of course planned (likely more than one), and a visit to a nearby manufacture.


Thunder Cats are GO!!!!!!!

Flie​ger TO 1 TESTAF from STOWA

This just in from STOWA - 

Courtesy of STOWA

Why this new watch?


To be honest: We simply want to produce even better watches.
With the certification of the FH Aachen it will be possible for the first time to test the quality of the
watch in a scientific developed procedure. Function, design and quality have to pass a complex testing
procedure. For STOWA it was immediately clear to participate. Of course we continue to build our traditional and historical seeming pilot watches. But with the FLIEGER TO 1 TESTAF we want to go one
step further into the future. The name of the new watch is program:

TO1 = technical optimized.   TESTAF

The new standard for pilot watches in the watch industry. Developed by FH Aachen.
With the project "technical standard of pilot watches" (in short "TESTAF") for the first time a precise technicfunctional requirements catalog is submitted. This catalogue determines the regulations wrist-pilot
watches with analogue time display have to fulfill nowadays in the civil air traffic in regard to sight- and
instrument flight rules. 

In the last years the term pilot watch became an arbitrary term. Concrete functional and technical requests faded into the background.

Therefore the FH Aachen developed and submitted in cooperation with the watch company Sinn this
new standard. Until now there was no clear definition for pilot watches (like for example for diving

watches, DIN 8306/ISO 6425). This gap will now be closed with the TESTAF certification. STOWA wanted to test its 70 year experience in building pilot watches and decided immediately to participate in
this certification procedure. 

The new model FLIEGER TO1 TESTAF is currently tested at the FH Aachen and it is planned that the
certification will be terminated by May/June 2013.

Of course you can see the watch “live” in our company or also in our online-shop. You receive the complete
information to the TESTAF certification under the following link: www.testaf.fh-aachen.de

Courtesy of STOWA

Readability

We specially focus our attention to the design and readability of the watch. For example the contrast
of the dial marking and hands to the background of the dial. The brightness adaption between marking
and background has to be under standard conditions at least 14:1.

Shock and vibration resistance
The shock- and vibration tests are very sophisticated. Each test for itself is a challenge.
The shock resistance is tested according to DIN 8308/ISO1413 which is equivalent to a fall from one
meter height on the ground. After this fall the watch still has to run in the required tolerance. No part of the watch may cease its function. This is similar to the vibration test which toughly tests the watch by varying frequencies.

Operability

To assure a tactile feedback the swivel which is turnable in both directions has to have a noticeable minute
catch. The function of the operating elements has to be ensured over the complete temperature
range (-15 up to +55 degree Celcius).

Ambient pressure
Due to the frequent pressure gradients and the partially extreme situations during the flight a watch
certificated by TESTAF has to pass special pressure tests. For example a pressure difference of
0,261 bar has to run at least 2000 times to simulate a cycle change of the ambient pressure of 1.013
bar up to 0,752 bar to 1013 bar. This test simulates 2,000 starts and landings.

diameter
45/46 mm, height: 12.90 mm


material
titanium, matt

water proof
20 bar = 200 meters waterproof according to DIN 8310

low pressure proof
by special thick crystal sealings

bezel
turnable on both sides, undetachable screwed construction
cone special thick diameter for improved stability

crown
titanium

seals
Viton on crown and case, a sealing material used at space flights

crystal
AR-coated sapphire crystal on both sides, front sapphire crystal domed

dial
black matt, white printed, Superluminova BWG9 (white illuminating color, at night light blue luminous)

hands
Superluminova BWG 9

movement
ETA 2824-2 in TOP quality, rhodium-coated, Geneve strips finish, golden STOWA engraving,
blued screws, shockproof acc. to DIN 8308, antimagnetic acc. to DIN 8309

strap buffalo leather or rubber strap fixed on very solid undetachable and screwed lugs
www.stowa.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Tides of Time Auction

This just in from Jaeger-LeCoultre -

Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre launches on April 23

its fifth online auction dedicated to safeguarding the UNESCO world heritage

From April 23rd to 26th 2013, Jaeger-LeCoultre is delighted to be organising its fifth online ‘Tides of Time’ auction

dedicated to preserving the world heritage marine sites.

This year, the Manufacture is offering a one-of-a-kind model inspired by the 1959 Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Deep Sea: prototype N°1 of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet.

The auction starts on April 23rd 2011 at 12:00 C.E.T and ends on April 26th 2013 at 12:00 C.E.T athttps://auction.jaeger-lecoultre.com

The Nelson Piquet Chronograph from LOUIS MOINET

This just in from LOUIS MOINET -

Courtesy of  LOUIS MOINET

The Nelson Piquet – celebrating a legend

Louis Moinet launches the Legends collection with the Nelson Piquet, a two-pusher automatic chronograph featuring race-ready rubber strap; high-visibility hands; tachymeter scale on cutting-edge steel and carbon fibre bezel; chrono pushers inset with carbon fibre; and racing-inspired engraving on back

The Legends collection features timepieces developed in partnership with an iconic figure who has made an indelible mark by excelling at the highest level in their respective field. Louis Moinet launches the collection with an exceptional model celebrating legendary racing driver Nelson Piquet.

Available in an exclusive limited edition of 365 pieces, the Nelson Piquet is a sporty, two-pusher automatic chronograph celebrating the three-time Formula One world champion. The Nelson Piquet boasts a clutch of racing-refined features including a driver-friendly rubber strap; high-visibility hands; a tachymeter scale on the high-tech steel and carbon fibre bezel; chronograph pushers inset with carbon fibre and adorned with chequered flag motif; and display-back engravings evoking Piquet in his prime.

Courtesy of LOUIS MOINET

Racing-refined dial and functionality

The Nelson Piquet’s dial and functionality have been designed specifically with racing drivers and motorsport enthusiasts in mind.

The dial is highly legible with bright counters and bold hands and numerals contrasting superbly against a navy blue backdrop. Rhodium-plated central hour and minute hands – filled with white Super-LumiNova that glows an eye-catching green in the dark – are accompanied by highly-reflective, metallised hour indices and small seconds at 9 o’clock.

The central chronograph hand is complemented by a seconds chapter ring (measuring intervals down to an impressive quarter of a second), 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. The counter hands are in a striking blue tone. What’s more, speed or distance can be calculated using the tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel to monitor racing performance.

All three subdials are set off by the dark blue background. The lower half of the dial features Geneva wave finishing reminiscent of the vertical grill design found on historic racing cars. The dial is completed by the Louis Moinet logo at 12 o’clock and, of course, Nelson Piquet’s signature at 5 o’clock.

The blue and white on the dial transports the observer back to the halcyon days of Formula One when Piquet was a dominant force: The winning colours conjure up images of the iconic Brabham cars in which Piquet raced between 1978 and 1985 – and in which he won the 1981 and 1983 Formula One drivers’ championship.

Courtesy of LOUIS MOINET

Racing-refined construction

The Nelson Piquet case design takes its cues from recent developments in motorsport technology, with the six-screw, stainless steel case incorporating a high-tech, carbon-fibre lower bezel.

Carbon fibre is also used to form the inserts for the chronograph pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock. To enhance grip, the pushers have been engraved with a chequered motif reminiscent of the iconic Formula One finish-line flag that Piquet took in his 23 F1 grand prix victories. The pushers take the form of champagne corks for a ‘podium finish’ experience – and in the case of Nelson Piquet that means a lot of bubbly: The Brazilian had 60 podium placings during his 13-year career in Formula One!

Meanwhile, the supple natural rubber strap with stainless steel double folding clasp buckle provides ultimate comfort for the avid motorsport fan.

Racing-inspired display-back engraving

Turning the Nelson Piquet over, the tinted sapphire crystal display-back reveals beautifully finished plates and bridges as well as a distinctive open-worked, black rhodium-plated, ball bearing-mounted rotor, the design of which echoes that of a high-performance car brake disc.

Around the periphery, a winner’s wreath is engraved – extremely appropriate because, as the accompanying inscription reminds us, Nelson Piquet is a three-time Formula One world champion.

Rarity

The Nelson Piquet is available in a limited edition of 365 pieces. It is presented in a deluxe case with black, carbon fibre-inspired interior, along with a beautiful 95mm x 70mm reproduction of a watercolour painting of Piquet in his Brabham and Williams cars by renowned motorsport artist Willy Richard.

Prize-winning design

The Nelson Piquet has received a Red Dot design award, one of the world’s most prestigious design industry prizes. This coveted distinction is awarded by a jury of design experts at the Design Zentrum Nordrhein Westfalen in Essen, Germany. The Nelson Piquet is the fifth Louis Moinet timepiece to have won a Red Dot Design award and joins Geograph Rainforest, Tempograph, Jules Verne Instrument I and Geograph in a permanent display at the Red Dot Museum in Essen, the largest exhibition of contemporary design worldwide.

The Legend

Nelson Piquet has etched his name in motorsport history thanks to his consummate skill, physical stamina and mental strength that have contributed to his masterly performances on the racetrack. Born in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil in 1952, Piquet is one of the leading figures of what was arguably the golden era of Formula One, during the 1980s, when breath-taking battles and fierce rivalries on and off the track created a compelling spectacle on a sporting and human level. Piquet’s exceptional talent was such that he claimed three Formula One world titles between 1981 and 1987. In recognition of his immense achievements, he was inducted into the International Motorsports Hall of Fame in 2000.

Technical specifications

Features and functions

Chronograph with tachymeter

High-legibility dial with Nelson Piquet signature

Racing-refined functionality and case design

Racing-inspired display-back engraving

Hands

Rhodium plated central hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova

Highly-reflective metallised hour indices

Small seconds in subdial at 9 o’clock

Blued central chronograph seconds hand

30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock

12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock

Tachymeter scale on bezel

Nelson Piquet signature at 5 o’clock

Louis Moinet logo at 12 o’clock

Dial

From 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock: Navy blue, smooth

From 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock: Navy blue with Geneva wave finishing

Movement and finishing

Louis Moinet automatic mechanical chronograph movement

Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz

Lines: 13 ¼

Power reserve: 44 hours

Number of jewels: 25

Blued steel screws

Case and strap

Case: Original Louis Moinet six-screw case design

Carbon-fibre lower bezel

Tachymeter scale on bezel

316L stainless steel, polished and matte finishing

Diameter: 45.60mm

Height: 17.10mm

Champagne cork chronograph pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock inset with carbon fibre and adorned with chequered flag motif

Patent-pending Louis Moinet crown

Water resistance: 50m

Crystals: Two sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment on both sides

Display-back featuring engraving of winner’s wreath around periphery

Width between lugs: 24mm

Strap: Blue natural rubber

Buckle: Double folding clasp in 316L stainless steel

www.louismoinet.com

UTTE Novelty BASELWORLD 2013

This just in from Arnold & Son

Arnold & Son releases world’s thinnest tourbillon watch and demonstrates the brand’s technical prowess

Courtesy of Arnold & Son

The UTTE is a masterful demonstration of elegant design and superb technical prowess. The A&S8200 movement – and the ultimate UTTE watch – is the result of several years of research and development, and boasts important features and functions, including a double barrel that makes it possible to offer 80 hours of power reserve. In fact, when the brand embarked on the creation of an additional tourbillon, Arnold & Son’s team of watchmakers and engineers determined that the end result should possess unique features that would set it apart in the watch world. Utilizing the most cutting-edge technology, Arnold & Son pushed the creative envelop to achieve this goal – thus developing a record-setting timepiece. The UTTE is the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch on the market today – with the case thickness at 8.34 mm and a movement that is just 2.97 mm thick. Additionally, while the movement diameter is 32 mm, the tourbillon cage is a massive 14 mm in diameter – thus occupying almost half of the movement space for impressive clarity. To ensure a long power reserve of at least 80 hours, the brand implemented two barrels to offer more constant force and unprecedented power reserve for an ultra-thin tourbillon.

Finally, to add further dramatic beauty to this already impressive watch, Arnold & Son created a totally spherical tourbillon cage – one devoid of any flat surfaces – for a magnificent three-dimensional aesthetic effect. In fact, the flying tourbillon cage is not inset into the calibre, but instead rises out of the movement, through the dial, and achieves the same height as the hour and minute hands. With an eye toward every detail, and the desire for harmonious appeal, the watchmakers removed all visible screws so the spherical tourbillon cage appears beautifully balanced. The only visible screws are on the regulator. In typical Arnold & Son style, the exquisite movement is crafted in nickel-silver, and all components are hand chamfered, polished and decorated.

Courtesy of Arnold & Son

The UTTE is part of Arnold & Son’s Instrument Collection, wherein timepieces are easily identified by their dial design, with off-center position of the hours and minutes to allow for the display of other complications without one overlapping the other. The new UTTE follows this design aesthetic, with the spherical tourbillon occupying the lower portion of the dial.  The alluring, timeless lines of the stepped case, which tapers from the top to the bottom, imbue this watch with an austere elegance. Two distinct models, with superbly different dial designs, each with a 42 mm diameter case – the first such size in the Instrument Collection.

UTTE is created in either 18-carat red gold or palladium (a rare alloy in the watch world). Each movement is finished in a color to complement the case color, and each features a different Côtes de Genève pattern. The 18-carat red gold case watch houses the movement treated in rhodium and decorated with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. The tourbillon bridge of the 18-carat red gold UTTE is entirely hand-engraved by Arnold & Son’s master engraver. The palladium UTTE version houses a grey NAC treated movement decorated with a straight Côtes de Genève pattern for a bold, contemporary appeal. Because of the amount of time it takes Arnold & Son’s vigilant watchmakers to build each one individually by hand, production is limited to just 50 timepieces of each of the two models.

www.arnoldandson.com

The Regattare Tiki from Magrette

This is something new that Magrette has in the works -

Courtesy of Magrette

The Ragattare Tiki.  Blue dial and strap, it will also be available with a black dial, and black dial with PVD case.

Courtesy of Magrette

Here are the details -

MODEL: REGATTARE TIKI

MOVEMENT: 9015 MIYOTA WITH HACKING SECONDS

CASE DIAMETER: 44MM EXCLUDING THE CROWN

CASE FINISH: PVD (BLACK, BRUSHED FINISH ALL OVER), AND STAINLESS STEEL BRUSHED/POLISHED.

CROWN: SCREW DOWN CROWN.

CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE (DOUBLE DOMED), AR COATING.

DIAL AND HANDS: SUPER LUMINOVA C3

PRESSURE VALVE: FUNCTIONAL PRESSURE ESCAPE VALVE, PROTECTING THE WATCH AGAINST PRESSURE DIFFERENCES THAT CAN OCCUR BELOW 300 METERS OF DEPTH

WATER-RESISTANCE: 500M/1650FT WATER RESISTANCE

STRAP: LEATHER

LIMITED EDITION: 600 PIECES FOR EACH MODEL

 www.magrette.com 

The Terrascope by NIght

The Terrascope before....

And like Clark Kent slipping into a phone booth -

Sorry for the "wobble" but I think that the strength of the lume speaks for itself.
The lume is very, very impressive.  It is noticeable even when merely walking into a a darker room.

A lot of watches "dabble" with the idea of lume, but JEANRICHARD has really APPLIED it!

Auguste Reymond's

This just in from Auguste Reymond -

Since 1898 Auguste Reymond manufactures classical, authentic Swiss watches. As one of the rare global independent Swiss watch brands, Auguste Reymond is very proud to present the face lift of Jazz Age.


Over more than a century the company AUGUSTE REYMOND has manufactured watches in Tramelan, a village located in the Jura Mountains, the very heart of the Swiss Watch Valley. A place far away from the hustle of the big cities, a place where time is still a value on its own, not just a matter of ephemeral trends or fast money, a place where we can still take our time to create timeless beauty.

Far aside from the mass production of the big luxury groups, our independent, family-owned company offers you the genuine luxury of an authentic product, which is hand-assembled only in small series by our watchmakers in our own workshops in Tramelan.

Courtesy of Auguste Reymond

Jazz Age chrono Moonphase


Back to the '30s. Auguste Reymond experienced a fantastic development. The company joined the ranks of those that were nicknamed the "barons" of watchmaking. Moon phase? A complication that the House already liked to decline. But this period is also the golden age of jazz. Jazz Age Moon Phase requires therefore a double tribute. Tribute to the craziest years of jazz and the best years of the brand when Auguste Reymond has created many watches that entered the hall of fame of Swiss watch history.


Technical details:

• Automatic movement Valjoux 7751, elaborated with decoration and bluish screws

• stainless steel case with see-through back to see the beauty of the movement

• domed sapphire crystal with antireflect treatment

• water resistant 30m

• guilloche dial

• leather strap with deployment clasp

• functions: hour/minute/second, date, day, month, moonphase, chronograph

The Terrascope from JEANRICHARD - What Moves You?

Movements...

Four New Limited Editions to Celebrate the Opening of the Vacheron Constantin Paris Boutique

This just in from Vacheron Constantin -


Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

To celebrate the opening of its Paris Boutique, Vacheron Constantin presents four limited-edition Patrimony Traditionnelle models. These technical and aesthetic gems embody the values and the expertise of the Geneva-based manufacturer.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin strengthens its special ties with France by inaugurating its first boutique in Paris – the 36th in the world. The prestigious address is no. 2, Rue de la Paix, a temple of luxury not far from the Opéra Garnier, of which Vacheron Constantin is a patron. This 85m2 area combining noble materials and refined elegance is set to become the new venue for connoisseurs and collectors of Fine Watchmaking. For its interior decoration, Vacheron Constantin enlisted the talents of great French master artists and artisans who, like the firm itself, cultivate traditional skills – whether in the field of lighting, marble mosaics or wrought-iron work. In addition to the entire range of collections from the Manufacture, the Paris Boutique will also present exclusive models such as a vintage line christened “Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs”. The inauguration of this warm, intimate setting signals a new further strengthening of ties with France which, since the 19th century, has played a key role in promoting the brand’s international reputation.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

To celebrate this event, Vacheron Constantin presents four exclusive timepieces issued in limited editions:

• a one-of-a-kind version of the Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 grand complication model
• a 10-piece limited edition of the Patrimony Traditionnelle chronograph
• a 75-piece limited edition of the Patrimony Traditionnelle small seconds
• a 75-piece limited edition of the Patrimony Traditionnelle small model diamond-set

These special “Paris Boutique” models are distinguished by their finely hand-guillloché dial – one of the many artistic crafts cultivated by the Manufacture – as well as by their Mississipiensis alligator leather strap featuring a warm chestnut brown colour. The case-back is engraved with the address “2, rue de la Paix”, along with the individual limited-series number.

The one-of-a-kind Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755, as well as the limited-edition Patrimony Traditionnelle small seconds and Patrimony Traditionnelle small model all bear the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva), the ultimate emblem of Genevan watchmaking – a guarantee of origin, precision, durability and expertise that encompasses both the technical and aesthetic aspects of the watch, as well as all phases in its production.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Patrimony Traditionnelle Paris Boutique chronograph

Issued in a ten-piece limited series, the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Paris Boutique” chronograph combines a sophisticated mechanism with an eminently stylish aesthetic.

This 18-carat pink gold chronograph in a 42 mm-diameter, framing a hand-guilloché opaline silver-toned dial and fitted with a chestnut brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, is distinguished by the finesse of the techniques it illustrates, as well as by the purity of its lines. The caseback engravings “N°X/10° and “2, rue de la Paix” provide an elegant reminder that only ten fortunate owners will be able to wear this fine mechanical model celebrating the opening of the Paris Boutique.

In tribute to their own proud traditions, the Vacheron Constantin watchmakers have equipped this watch with a hand-wound movement, the famous Calibre 1141 featuring a construction equipped with a tried and tested column-wheel system. In the same spirit, they have placed the 30-minute counter and the small seconds along the 3-9 o’clock axis, complemented by a central chronograph seconds hand.

Calibre 1141 has been finished with an exquisite degree of care worthy of such a mechanical gem. The transparent exhibition back provides an opportunity to discover this complex mechanism with its refined finishing: surfaces that are circular-grained or adorned with Côtes de Genève, components featuring flanks meticulously hand-drawn with a file in parallel lines, chamfered and polished steel parts, individually polished screw heads.

Surrounded by a smooth, slender bezel, the dial is distinguished by its perfect balance and its studied understatement. The minute circle, the dauphine-shaped hands, the applied 18K gold hour-markers, the black chronograph indications as well as the tachometric scale all combine to ensure optimal readability, enhanced by the glareproofed sapphire crystal.

The strap in hand-sewn, saddle-stitched Mississippiensis alligator leather with large square scales, is fitted with an 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp shaped like a half Maltese Cross.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Patrimony Traditionnelle

Calibre 2755 one-of-a-kind Paris Boutique model

A true masterpiece by Vacheron Constantin, the Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 grand complication model is issued in a one-of-a-kind “Paris Boutique” version featuring an unusual exterior.

Rare, complex and exclusive: such as the adjectives applying to this exceptional watch. Crafted in a limited edition of one to mark the inauguration of the Paris Boutique, this 18K 5N pink gold timepiece is distinguished by its hand-guilloché opaline silver-toned dial and its chestnut brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap. It pays magnificent tribute to the expertise acquired by the world’s oldest manufacturer that has been operating non-stop since 1755.

Entirely developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin, hand-wound Calibre 2755 (602 parts) combines the three major Fine Watchmaking complications – a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar – along with a power-reserve display on a bridge on the back of the movement.

Among these three complications, the minute repeater is the one that has been dealt with in the most original manner, once again proving, if proof were needed, that the Manufacture is still one of the most innovative in the world. To push back technical limits and increase the user friendliness of this model, the Vacheron Constantin engineers and master-watchmakers have developed an original centripetal flying strike governor that accurately drives the speed of the striking hammers, while eliminating the background noise that lever-based systems generally produce. Curious connoisseurs will be able to admire the rotation of this governor through the sapphire exhibition back, along with the meticulous chamfering of the bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and the circular graining of the mainplate.

The tourbillon makes light of the effects of gravity in order to enhance the precision of the movement; it is also distinguished by its transparent construction revealing the beating heart of the watch, and by its carriage openworked to form the Maltese Cross, the brand emblem.

Bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva), Calibre 2755 meets the requirements of this symbol of horological durability and perfection.

Meanwhile, the perpetual calendar, the “memory of time to come” is capable of keeping track with the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar without any intervention other than changing the date in century years that are not leap years.

With its 44 mm-diameter round case, its timeless classicism and its aura of restrained elegance, the Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 one-of-a-kind “Paris Boutique” model reinterprets the grand watchmaking tradition in resolutely contemporary language. Particular care has been lavished on ensuring the readability of all the functions, and the oversized counters as well as the subtly off-centred hand-fitting enhance the overall clarity while highlighting the tourbillon carriage.

Two engravings on the caseback soberly indicate the unique and exceptional nature of this watch “N° 1/1” and “2, rue de la Paix” appearing on the power-reserve zone.


Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Patrimony Traditionnelle Paris Boutique diamond-set
small model


The sparkle of diamonds lights up the bezel and the hand-guilloché dial of this elegant mechanical ladies’ watch issued in a 75-piece limited edition.

With its refined aesthetic and its 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 30 millimetres in diameter, the “Patrimony Traditionnelle small model” is a worthy heir to the rich tradition of Vacheron Constantin watches for women. In the special version dedicated to the City of Lights, it appears adorned with an opaline silver-toned dial featuring a guilloché motif, glowing with the fire of 88 round-cut diamonds set on the bezel and hour-markers, and fitted with an elegant chestnut brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap fastened by a 5N pink gold pin buckle shaped like a half Maltese Cross.

This apparently understated exterior conceals a prestigious mechanical hand-wound movement visible through the exhibition back. The Manufacture Calibre 1400 conveys an aesthetic appeal imbued with authenticity. Embodying expertise passed on from generation to generation for almost 260 years, this movement combines a highly technical nature with traditionally hand-crafted finishes meeting the highest Fine Watchmaking standards. The flat surfaces are adorned with Côtes de Genève and the sharp edges are chamfered and then hand-polished, as are the flat-head screws.

This timepiece meets the new demands of the Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva) that are no longer confined to the movement alone, but also take account of the finished watch. This represents a major evolution for the label that celebrated its 125th anniversary last year and has chosen to respond more closely than ever to the true expectations of an ever more well-informed clientele.

The back of the case is engraved with the inscriptions “2, rue de la Paix” – the boutique address – as well as the individual number of each watch, “N° X/75”, recalling the exclusive nature of its 75-piece limited edition.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

 Patrimony Traditionnelle “Paris Boutique” small seconds

The classic and timeless Patrimony Traditionnelle small seconds celebrates the inauguration at 2, Rue de la Paix of an 5N pink gold special version in a limited numbered edition of 75.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle small seconds watch belongs to an authentic horological tradition. It forcefully displays its timeless nature through pure lines and harmoniously balanced proportions. A slender bezel, applied hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold, dauphine-shaped hands and a dial playing with several finishes, this model sublimates the aesthetic codes of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line. For the Paris Boutique special edition in 5N pink gold, it appears adorned with a hand-guilloché opaline silver-toned dial and fitted with a Mississippiensis alligator leather strap in a soft chestnut brown shade.

This timepiece meets the new requirements of the Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva) which are no longer limited to the movement and now also take account of the finished watch. This is a major evolution for the label that celebrated its 125th anniversary last year and which has chosen to respond more fully than ever to the true demands of an ever more well-informed clientele.

At the heart of the case beats the hand-wound Vacheron Constantin Calibre 4400 AS. Developed and crafted in harmony with the most demanding standards of Geneva’s Fine Watchmaking traditions, it oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) and drives displays of the hours and minutes along with small seconds at 6 o’clock. It has an approximately 65-hour power reserve. Its finishes, clearly visible through the exhibition back, also reflect the concern for fine workmanship inherited from generations of artisans: flat surfaces adorned with Côtes de Genève and bridges that are first chamfered and then hand-polished, like the screw heads.

To provide a worthy setting for this fine example of mechanical genius, Vacheron Constantin has developed the case according to two complementary criteria: while its elegantly slender profile clearly reveals its kinship with the classic tradition, its 38 mm diameter lend it a distinctively contemporary dimension.

The caseback is engraved with the inscriptions “2, rue la Paix” – the boutique address – as well as the individual number of each watch “N° X/75”, recalling the exclusive nature of the 75-piece limited edition.


www.vacheron-constantin.com