The Essence ThirtyNine Automatic in Green

From Formex -

Courtesy of Formex

So this is sort of a trippy post for me to write.  In many ways it is taking me back to November 2012 when I was still living in Santa Barbara and stumbled across the (then) new JEANRICHARD Terrascope - http://www.tempusfugit.watch/2012/11/jeanrichards-terrascope-revelling-in.html

All I'll need is a call from Paul Earhardt inviting me to Los Angeles to view it in person and then the eery similarities will be complete ; )

At the time, what struck me was finally, FINALLY!  Here was a watch that was NOT a dive watch, but of stainless steel and not perfectly round. It was heralded as the perfect ONLY watch.  Meaning if you were a collector of limited, modest means and could only afford only one really dope watch, this would be your baby. Sporty without being too "DIVE WATCHY", a good looking bracelet that matched so smoothly with the case lugs, it could at a glance appear to be integrated. And it came with a promise of "easily swappable" straps so that you could change the look of your watch quickly. 

In actual fact, not so much. I owned a Terrascope and it was a great watch, but the case and bracelet were both too thick, and heavy. The bracelet and straps required a special tool. The watch cost a not exactly reasonable amount of money, was equipped with either an ETA or Sellita mvt. (relatively standard grade)and retailed for $3,500 if memory serves.

So time moves forward, and now I am excited again! I am excited because, in fact, I think the folks at Formex can finally deliver on what so many brands have choked on previously - and deliver it at a reasonable price that the rest of us in the real world can realistically hope to afford without putting our retirement accounts at risk.

Courtesy of Formex

You will note the two buttons position at the end piece of the bracelet between the two lug horns.

They work like this -

And lucky for us, you can also get some pretty dope options for replacement straps -

I'm sold!  Oh, did I mention that it comes standard with a chronometer certified movement?  Oh, and one last thing, the price -

$1,390.00 US

*taxes, duties and shipping included

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT

Swiss Made Sellita SW200-1 (self-winding) Automatic (Chronometer grade), officially certified by COSC. 26 jewels and glucydur balance wheel. Date display. Custom-built skeleton rotor with thermally blued screws. 38 hours power reserve.

CASE

• Diameter: 39mm
• Height: 10mm
• Lug width: 20mm
• Lug-to-lug: 45mm
• Water resistance: 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet)
• Weight: 65g (case only)

MATERIAL

• Bezel: Stainless steel 316L
• Case: Stainless steel 316L
• Glass: Sapphire crystal (front and back) with anti-reflection treatment

STRAP

• Stainless steel bracelet, or Italian calf leather straps with curved spring bars, Quick Release function and carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented Micro-Adjustment System. 
• Stainless steel bracelet with Quick Release and Micro-extension function. 
• All Essence straps and the bracelet can be changed by hand without the use of tools. The carbon fiber composite folding clasp with patented fine adjustment system can be changed without tools and can be used for all Essence ThirtyNine leather straps. 

DIAL

Vertical brush finish with horizontally cut lines which are CNC machined into the dial base one by one. BGW9 Super-LumiNova on hands and indexes. 

REFERENCE NUMBER

0333.1.6600.100

Alas Poor JEANRICHARD, I Knew Them...

Life is full of disappointment.  A lot of missed opportunities, a lot of "What If's" and the rapid revival, ascension and now decline of JEANRICHARD should serve as a cautionary tale.

In less than 3 years (think about that pals and gals) THREE YEARS a seemingly dead brand was brought back to life with a very well-thought out and well executed plan, brought to the forefront of the watch buyer's consciousness, then sent crashing down through the squabbles, arguments and disputes within its own walls.

I remember when the new JEANRICHARD was rolled out - it was late 2012.  In early 2013 I was one of the first folks in North America to get my mitts on one at a "semi-private" viewing in Los Angeles.

What had killed JEANRICHARD in the past was too many SKUs, no clear message, and seemingly random (some might say) brain-dead partnerships.  Hundreds of JEANRICHARDs flooded both the grey market and Ebay.  What had always been considered an after-thought of a brand had pretty much run itself into the ground.

But change was about to happen.

And change came in the form of Michele Sofisti and Bruno Grande.  The concept was simple - an essentially modular watch case that could be adapted to three different collections - standard (Terrascope) diver (Aquascope) and chronograph (Aeroscope).  There was also a somewhat stand-alone collection that would house a manufacture movement while the other pieces would use "so-called" industrial movements (i.e. ETA, Sellita, etc.).

The watches were well-received.  That was the good news.  Some of the "notions" that went along with it left many of us scratching our heads -

The tag line for the brand was (and still is) - "Philosophy of Life"
Now I am not going to say that I am the world's best copywriter, but I still have NO IDEA what the f*&k that is supposed to mean.

In addition, what to many of us in the fourth and fifth estates privately voiced concerns over but publicly smiled and nodded were the very, very random and downright odd choices of "celebrity ambassadors" -

Nik Wallenda?  The JEANRICHARD Rugby Team?  And who could forget that world-famous culinary genius Luca Manfe?  Oh yeah, you're right - I never heard of him either.  But he toils away in the kitchen's of Manhattan, a true "Philosopher of Life".  

An Aresenal partnership was heralded as the tipping point that would put JEANRICHARD over the top and into the public consciousness.  The Gunners offered one big boom, and then not much else.

And then when sales stalled because budgets were once again predicated on unrealistic sales numbers which resulted in overproduction... retail partners bailed out.  A new CEO was brought in who clearly viewed JEANRICHARD as a grasping child.  JEANRICHARD staff either left or were "encouraged" to leave, and by the time BaselWorld rolled around again this year, the JEANRICHARD booth had been collapsed into the Girard-Perregaux booth and the viewing rooms looked like the aftermath of a garage sale visited by particularly aggressive bargain shoppers.  It had literally been turned "upside down".

And now, not unlike Wonka's factory - "Nobody ever goes in, and nobody ever comes out" could be applied to the feeling most of us have about JEANRICHARD.

The good news for many bargain hunters out there is that retail stores who have to "cover their nut" are slashing and burning - there are most assuredly bargains to be had - including those limited edition Arsenal watches

It didn't have to be this way.  It didn't have to (possibly) end like this

Terrascope "Le Cabinet de Curiosités of Thomas Erber”

From JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

Okay, in fairness this is technically a "partnership" watch.  And in fairness I have railed and spit and screamed against the trend to create a watch with the sole purpose of marketing a partnership.  So, I'm not going to write about the partnership - but I am going to write about the watch because it is "Wicked Cool"!

This is the Limited Edition Terrascope for "Le Cabinet de Curiosités of Thomas Erber”.

The case is made of BLUE ALUMINUM.  Are you kidding me?  Who else out there is doing something like this???

The case itself measures 44 mm and is equipped with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.  The screw down case back is crafted of titanium as is the crown.  The movement is what JEANRICHARD refers to as the JR60.  But as we also know that is what JR has referred to as an "industrial" movement that is essentially a Sellita.

New JEANRICHARD Terrascope to premier in Bangkok

This just in from JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

JEANRICHARD will collaborate with the Cabinet de Curiosités of Thomas Erber at the end of 2014 in Thailand. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer will present a uniquely created Terrascope watch, limited to 8 pieces world-wide, for this 5th edition of the internationally acclaimed exhibition. The exclusive timepiece will be revealed on 20 November 2014 at the official opening of the Cabinet de Curiosités of Thomas Erber (CDC) at the SIWILAI Concept Store at the new Central Embassy Luxury Retail Project in Bangkok.

The uniquely for the event created Terrascope timepiece fits perfectly with the concept and of the CDC as well as with the JEANRICHARD Philosophy of Life. Thomas Erber curates since 2010 the most individual and finest pieces from prestigious contributors from around the world in the fields of fashion, design, high jewellery, art, photography and many more. Just like JEANRICHARD creates watches for every day adventurers that live their lives to the fullest and are looking for timepieces without any compromise on individuality, innovation or style.

The lucky number eight was chosen to celebrate the 5th anniversary of the CDC but also to pay tribute to Asia, the first time host of the event. The signature case construction made of more than 70 individual components, allows for a very modular and trendy combination of materials for this special edition watch. This cushion- shaped case will be sported by fresh and stylish colours that will be particularly emphasized on its three-dimensional camouflage look dial. The strap of this limited edition piece will surprise with yet another novelty – especially in terms of structure and texture.

“This uniquely created timepiece will showcase many qualities of our brand in terms of innovation, flexibility and new materials – and we are happy to be presenting it at the Cabinet de Curiosités of Thomas Erber in Asia - which is a growing and very important market for JEANRICHARD”, said Bruno Grande, Managing Director of JEANRICHARD.

The 2014 CDC takes place from 20 November until 21 December 2014 at the Central Embassy Luxury Retail Project & SIWILAI Concept Store in Bangkok, Thailand. 

The Terrascope in Gold

This just in from JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

JEANRICHARD is adding a twist to the Terrascope by adding 18K gold.  With their characteristic case divided into various sections, these timepieces allow for subtle combinations of materials.  The first of the summer Terrascope models features lateral inserts in pink gold surrounding a bezel and the middle-case in steel.  The second showcases a bezel in pink gold emerging from a case in black DLC steel. The third model plays the card of elegant contrasts with a bezel and lateral inserts in pink gold combined with a middle-case in black DLC steel. All of these variations of colours are emphasised by subtly alternating finishes (ranging between vertical satin-finished, polished or sand-blasted) and hands and hour markers in pink gold with a luminescent treatment, adding a touch of lustre alongside the watches' matt black or grey dials.  To accompany all the other pleasures of summer, these three models beat to the rhythm of an automatic mechanical movement and are fitted with a strap in alligator skin or black rubber with a folding buckle. 

The Steve Nash Foundation and JEANRICHARD

Here's the news, straight from the source -

Swiss luxury watch manufacturer JEANRICHARD is honored to announce its support of the 7TH edition of The Steve Nash Foundation Showdown New York. This partnership highlights JEANRICHARD’s continued commitment to the world of sports and tie in to its Philosophy of Life and giving back to the community.

JEANRICHARD will award the Most Valuable Player of the Game and a “Friend of the Foundation” with the unique Terrascope timepiece, a multi colored aluminum version of the brand’s iconic collection. 

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

An ode to color, happiness and light, this aluminum watch with its daring red middle case, blue shafts, green bezel and raised white dial with blue hour-markers and a luminescent orange coating is the summer breeze with character in JEANRICHARD’s extended Terrascope collection.

With their interplay of reflected light, the refined contrast between vertical satin finishes (on the flat parts of the middle case and the shafts) and polished finishes (on the bezels) underlines this model’s distinctive and sophisticated look.

With the new combinations of materials and in this case especially colors, one can literally feel the adventure, independence and liberty of this JEANRICHARD timepiece. The Terrascope Aluminum is more than ever the perfect companion for everyday heroes accomplishing extraordinary things throughout all walks of life.

The Steve Nash Foundation Showdown NY is an annual charity soccer match held by two-time NBA MVP, Steve Nash. Showdown is a fast paced, competitive 7-a-side soccer match featuring NBA and professional soccer players alike, joining forces to support the Steve Nash Foundation’s work to benefit underserved children.

All proceeds from Showdown ticket sales will benefit the Foundation’s early childhood education platform, Educare. This year’s event begins with a sponsored FanFest at 4pm and the match kicking off at 6:30pm on June 25th at Sara D. Roosevelt Park on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. 

Darkness Falls for JEANRICHARD

Two new BaselWorld previews from JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

Available in two deliciously dark flavors!

Patrouille des Glaciers and JEANRICHARD

This just in from JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

JEANRICHARD will partner with the legendary Swiss alpine team competition Patrouille des Glaciers (PDG) in Spring 2014. The PDG is the worldwide biggest ski alpinism race and takes place every two years – starting in Zermatt and leading through Arolla to Verbier in Switzerland. 

JEANRICHARD Congratulates Nik Wallenda on NASCAR walk

This just in from JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

JEANRICHARD congratulates Nik Wallenda for making a high-wire walk at the pre-race entertainment at NASCAR’s Bank of America 500 this past Saturday at the
Charlotte Motor Speedway in Charlotte, North Carolina. 

This walk pushed the limits by inviting his sister Lijana to walk on the wire with him for a spectacular and very challenging dual skywalk.  This was the second year in a row Wallenda walked in the pre-race entertainment at the Charlotte Motor Speedway following last year’s walk over the grandstand to a tower near victory lane. It is also the second time Nik has walked while wearing his JEANRICHARD Terrascope. The Charlotte Motor Speedway has a reputation for spectacular pre-race entertainment that in the past has featured battle reenactments and a three-ring circus amongst other performances. Nik Wallenda’s daring high-wire walk fit perfectly with the breathtaking performances of past pre-race events.

“I was very excited to return to Charlotte Motor Speedway for the second year in a row,” said Wallenda. “I love the challenge of raising the bar to keep the fans on the edge of their seats and it was even more special this time having my sister join me on the wire.”


“We admire Nik and his personal values and how he lives his passion and pursues his dreams. He is an extraordinary man and has accomplished wonders”, said Bruno Grande, COO of JEANRICHARD.
In the same way that Wallenda enjoys the challenge of walking on a wire, JEANRICHARD creates watches for those who enjoy authenticity. The timepieces are made for independent spirits who play by their own rules, and rather than just focusing on the destination, prefer to enjoy the road being traveled. 

Racing with the Terrascope

There are a lot of "special edition" and cooperative watches out there.  This one is special.

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

Co-branded watches can be, at times, little better than a "Nascar" - festooned with slogans, text, "clever" names, and crass, almost buffoonish logos.  But this is different.

The same watch, a clean face, a simple, tasteful logo.

James Blunt and JEANRICHARD

This just in from JEANRICHARD -

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

JEANRICHARD's Terrascope at BaselWorld

So I got to see the sights at JEANRICHARD and today I bring you the Terrascope novelties, available in three different flavors -

The Terrascope by NIght

The Terrascope before....

And like Clark Kent slipping into a phone booth -

Sorry for the "wobble" but I think that the strength of the lume speaks for itself.
The lume is very, very impressive.  It is noticeable even when merely walking into a a darker room.

A lot of watches "dabble" with the idea of lume, but JEANRICHARD has really APPLIED it!

The Terrascope from JEANRICHARD - What Moves You?

Movements...

The Terrascope - Five Days in

So I am now five days in with my review of JEANRICHARD's Terrascope.  And as I said in an earlier post, the comfort of the watch is really one of the most notable aspects so far.

Now I know what all of the "gear-heads" out there are going to say - "Big deal, what about the movement?"  "How deep will it go?", etc.

And yes, these are valuable questions, and we will get to them.  BUT - how often have you longed for a steel sport watch only to wear it for a few days, thinking to yourself "I just need to get used to it"?

As any good shoemaker will tell you, if the shoe is uncomfortable when you first try it on, it is not likely to "break in" and feel as good as if you had the right size in the first place.  Well, the same is true for watches.  If the watch is out of proportion for the bracelet (or vice versa), if the clasp is unwieldy, if the case is overwhelmingly large (or seems visibly too small) that is not a feeling or perception that will likely go away in the short-term.  But as I said in an earlier post - this one feels just right.  Yes, the case is substantial at 46 mm.  But because of the case design, it looks and feels like a reasonably sized watch.

How can that be?  Thoughtful design, of course!  The case and bezel are somewhat "stepped" in their profile.  Yes, the lower portion of the case is 46 mm, but the solid bezel is smaller and sits atop the lower case.  Even with this "two layer" design - it does not look like a botched horological "wedding cake".  This is due to the smooth and rounded lines of the design of the case and the bracelet - like the Le Corbusier house in La Chaux-de-Fonds (just up the hill from the GP headquarters), there is hardly a straight line in it - and I mean that as a good thing!  Let's face some facts, the human wrist is not exactly a "level playing field", and for this reason I still find it baffling that some many watches are made each year presuming just the opposite - that our wrists must be as flat as a tortilla!  And this is where we come back to comfort - comfort with a large wrist watch, that actually FEELS GOOD to wear!  You don't have to conform to the watch - because it was designed to conform to you - what a crazy idea!

And so that you know, the watch functions pretty well - +3 seconds deviation so far ; )

More to come, stay tuned!

This One's Just Right!

Okay, ordinarily I wait a few days in before I start giving feedback.  But I went and got the bracelet adjusted for the Terrascope yesterday and I have to say, I'm sold!

The bracelet is INSANELY comfortable!  This was the first opportunity to try the watch with a bracelet as the ones that I checked out in Los Angeles were on straps.

A nice, smooth fit.  The bracelet literally wraps around your wrist and fuses seamlessly with the watch head.

And what I particularly like about this bracelet is that it does not overwhelm the watch itself.  How often do you see a nice watch with a bracelet on steroids?  It absolutely ruins the entire thing.  Not so with the Terrascope -

Just Right!

13 more days to go!

15 Days with the JEANRICHARD Terrascope

15 days with the Terrascope from JEANRICHARD starts now.

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

Why the Terrascope? A Response

So in fact, it would appear that someone actually reads this stuff!  A comment from a connection on Linkedin called me out (rightly so) for simply saying that I thought the Terrascope could be a watch of the year candidate, but didn't really bother to say why.  Sir, you are in the right, so allow me to reply:

First and foremost, I think that the Terrascope is an intriguing design and one that finally relieves us from the limitations that the former JEANRICHARD collections have provided.  It is neither a dress watch or a dive watch - but something somehow in between. 

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

Is the design the MOST CUTTING EDGE you've ever seen?  Of course not, and that is the point actually.  Like a lot of people out there, I had been on a bit of a roller-coaster ride when it came to JEANRICHARD.  On the one hand, there would be an interesting piece here or there, but too often than not you would see either "GP Light" - meaning a watch that bore striking resemblances to Girard-Perregaux, but contained a non-"in house" movement.  Or the other extreme end of the spectrum - an extremely expensive, semi-complicated watch that would be in the collection for a year or so, then consigned to the grey market where it would continue to drop in price until it was gone and that "would be that".

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

I think that more than anything, JEANRICHARD lacked a consistent line-up.  The moves were starting to be made, and Highlands was certainly a step in the right direction.  Having tested one of them a few years ago, I can say that yes, it is a great watch.  But the brand needed something more.  And I feel quite strongly that the Terrascope is that something more.  It is a departure from the previous "set-play".  It is a risk of sorts, because rather than just re-configure something existing, this is something completely new.  And for me at least, this finally hits ALL of the buttons for a watch that I would buy and wear every day, on every occasion.

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

This is a watch I could wear in just about any circumstance.  Living as I do in Santa Barbara, I wouldn't feel the need to change watches to go to the beach - it is water resistant to 100 meters - far deeper than I would ever go.  As it looks very smart, I would not hesitate to wear it on a formal outing.  And lastly - because I am in fact 44 years old, and no longer as young and spry as I once was - I appreciate that it is clear, legible and easy to read.  It is not ostentatious, it is dignified.  And it does come with an in-house movement.  And finally, it is priced at a level that a former English teacher can afford!

One of the things I wrote about a week ago was the difference between "FAIR" and "RATIONAL" pricing.  I think that finally, JEANRICHARD has recognized the need to offer a solid, well made (and dare I say it) archival watch and price it RATIONALLY.  This is a watch that could stay in a family for many generations - it is not "of the moment".  It is modern, but not disposable in terms of design.  This is the watch that I know I have been waiting for.

And if the buzz I hear from others out there is anything to go by, I am not alone.

A Possible Watch of the Year - Terrascope

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

I genuinely believe that this SHOULD be a top consideration for an award this year.

Vertically satin-finished stainless steel case
Dimensions : 44.00 mm
Height : 12.60 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Case-back screw-down, engraved
Water-resistant to 100 m
Movement JR60, self-winding
Calibre : 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/ hour (4 Hz)
Jewels : 21
Power reserve: minimum 42 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
Different colour of dial
Luminescent indexes
Rhodium-coated hands with luminescent material
Leather bracelet
Stainless steel folding buckle

JEANRICHARD's Terrascope - Revelling in the Unexpected!

Writing about watches is at times super easy, and other times monumentally frustrating.  A new Patek - that's easy.  There is a history, a pattern, a certain certainty of how you will write about it:

• Tradition
• Technological advancements in the movement construction
• Exclusivity

But what do you do when you try to describe the emotional impact of a watch that you didn't expect to find?  For the most part, I thought I had come to an understanding of JEANRICHARD.  At least, what I thought I understood about it - little brother to Girard-Perregaux, been through some ups, some downs and some different iterations.  But how to describe the feeling I got when I first laid eyes on the Terrascope is a little like describing the indescribable.  We are all good at telling people what we don't want, or what we don't like.  It is only when we are asked what WOULD YOU LIKE that it becomes challenging.  And as is so often the case with watches, we don't know what we like until we see it.

Courtesy of JEANRICHARD

This is a very, very welcome departure from what I have come to expect!  I love the shape of the case, the straight-forward layout of the dial and although I'm generally not big on bracelets - I truly like this one.  Yes, this is a sport watch, but you could conceivably wear it with a suit.  This to me underscores the commitment of JEANRICHARD to do more than just be the "junior" brand.  This is a fine looking watch at a gentler price point, and its own identity.  This is what I (and I suspect many others) have been wanting from JEANRICHARD - we just didn't know it!  I mean, how do you describe the watch you've been craving when you haven't seen it yet?

So JEANRICHARD - WE LIKE THIS!

Here are the details straight from JEANRICHARD -

Dimensions : 44.00 mm
Height : 12.60 mm

Antireflective sapphire crystal

Case-back screw-down, engraved

Water-resistant to 100 m

Movement JR60, self-winding

Calibre : 11 ½’’’

Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/ hour (4 Hz)

Jewels : 21

Power reserve: minimum 42 hours

Functions: hour, minute, second, date

Black vertically satin-finished dial

Luminescent indexes

Rhodium-coated hands with luminescent material

Stainless steel bracelet

Stainless steel folding buckle

www.jeanrichard.com