Showing posts with label Michele Sofisti. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Michele Sofisti. Show all posts

Monday, January 23, 2017

The Latest Laureato, and the Importance of Punching Your Weight

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
So to begin, I want to be very clear that I like Girard-Perregaux.  I desperately want them to succeed. Unfortunately Girard-Perregaux continues to drift, and continue to fail to recognize the realities of the world where we are living.  And I could well be misinformed, but my understanding is that the demand for GP is not exactly robust, and the fact that you can continue to pick up discontinued models through the soft grey market and current models through the regular grey market doesn't lend a lot of confidence to the consumer purchasing a new GP from an authorized retail source.  These grey market watches have to come from somewhere, don't they?

I really do love the new Laureato!  I really enjoyed seeing the pictures on other sites - apparently the PR firm handling North America decided that the rest of us could wait a week for images and details, but I guess that is my "media cross to bear".  And unlike Brutus I came to praise GP, not to bury it.  But it seems that the shot callers at HQ can't seem to get their heads around some basic concepts.  According to other outlets (so apologies if their info. is incorrect), the price of the new Laureato is a "more affordable $11,000 +..."
And this is where the head-shaking starts.

Girard-Perregaux makes beautiful watches.  They have an amazing facility, fantastic watchmakers and a true heritage.  And when Sofisti was in charge, it actually seemed as if they might finally realize their potential.  But as has been the case so often, the parent company got the fidgets.  Mr. Calce was brought in, loyal (and competent) staff were eviscerated, and a merry-go-round of PR/Marketing staff spun around at GP HQ, and here in North America we are now on yet another transplanted person trying to understand the culture, language, rhythm and realities of the North American market.  Unless of course that person has also left.  It is getting to the point where you need a score card to keep track of it.

So, back to the Laureato - it is a beautiful watch.  And I hope that I am wrong about it being incorrectly priced.  The market will let us know.  But you don't need to be a mystic, reading tea leaves to know, simply keep an eye on the grey market web stores.  If you see the new Laureato for sale in the next month or at deep discounts...


Here are the pertinents -

Laureato 42 mm

Case
Material: steel, or titanium and 18K pink gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 10.88 mm
Glass: glare proofed sapphire crystal
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: silver-toned, or slate grey, or blue, with “Clous de Paris” hobnail motif
Hands: baton-type, enhanced with luminescent substance
Water resistance: 100 metres (10 ATM, 10 bar)

Movement
Reference: GP01800-0008, mechanical self-winding
Diameter: 30 mm (13 ¼ ’’’) 
Thickness: 3.97 mm
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Number of components: 191
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 54 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, sweep-seconds hand, date

Straps/Bracelets
Leather strap:  black or anthracite grey alligator with topstitching
Metal bracelet: steel, or titanium and 18K pink gold, with alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces
Clasp: titanium triple folding clasp

References

Timepieces fitted with an alligator leather strap are delivered with an additional rubber strap.

Sunday, June 14, 2015

Alas Poor JEANRICHARD, I Knew Them...

Life is full of disappointment.  A lot of missed opportunities, a lot of "What If's" and the rapid revival, ascension and now decline of JEANRICHARD should serve as a cautionary tale.

In less than 3 years (think about that pals and gals) THREE YEARS a seemingly dead brand was brought back to life with a very well-thought out and well executed plan, brought to the forefront of the watch buyer's consciousness, then sent crashing down through the squabbles, arguments and disputes within its own walls.

I remember when the new JEANRICHARD was rolled out - it was late 2012.  In early 2013 I was one of the first folks in North America to get my mitts on one at a "semi-private" viewing in Los Angeles.

What had killed JEANRICHARD in the past was too many SKUs, no clear message, and seemingly random (some might say) brain-dead partnerships.  Hundreds of JEANRICHARDs flooded both the grey market and Ebay.  What had always been considered an after-thought of a brand had pretty much run itself into the ground.

But change was about to happen.

And change came in the form of Michele Sofisti and Bruno Grande.  The concept was simple - an essentially modular watch case that could be adapted to three different collections - standard (Terrascope) diver (Aquascope) and chronograph (Aeroscope).  There was also a somewhat stand-alone collection that would house a manufacture movement while the other pieces would use "so-called" industrial movements (i.e. ETA, Sellita, etc.).

The watches were well-received.  That was the good news.  Some of the "notions" that went along with it left many of us scratching our heads -

The tag line for the brand was (and still is) - "Philosophy of Life"
Now I am not going to say that I am the world's best copywriter, but I still have NO IDEA what the f*&k that is supposed to mean.

In addition, what to many of us in the fourth and fifth estates privately voiced concerns over but publicly smiled and nodded were the very, very random and downright odd choices of "celebrity ambassadors" -

Nik Wallenda?  The JEANRICHARD Rugby Team?  And who could forget that world-famous culinary genius Luca Manfe?  Oh yeah, you're right - I never heard of him either.  But he toils away in the kitchen's of Manhattan, a true "Philosopher of Life".  

An Aresenal partnership was heralded as the tipping point that would put JEANRICHARD over the top and into the public consciousness.  The Gunners offered one big boom, and then not much else.

And then when sales stalled because budgets were once again predicated on unrealistic sales numbers which resulted in overproduction... retail partners bailed out.  A new CEO was brought in who clearly viewed JEANRICHARD as a grasping child.  JEANRICHARD staff either left or were "encouraged" to leave, and by the time BaselWorld rolled around again this year, the JEANRICHARD booth had been collapsed into the Girard-Perregaux booth and the viewing rooms looked like the aftermath of a garage sale visited by particularly aggressive bargain shoppers.  It had literally been turned "upside down".

And now, not unlike Wonka's factory - "Nobody ever goes in, and nobody ever comes out" could be applied to the feeling most of us have about JEANRICHARD.

The good news for many bargain hunters out there is that retail stores who have to "cover their nut" are slashing and burning - there are most assuredly bargains to be had - including those limited edition Arsenal watches

It didn't have to be this way.  It didn't have to (possibly) end like this

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Girard-Perregaux and the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures

This just in from Girard-Perregaux -

Girard-Perregaux, the iconic luxury Swiss watch brand, is proud to announce it will be the Exclusive Timekeeper and a Founding Supporter of the new Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, scheduled to open in 2016 in Los Angeles. It will be the first U.S. not-for-profit museum dedicated exclusively to the history and ongoing development of motion pictures and will be designed by award-winning architects Renzo Piano and Zoltan Pali.
Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
To celebrate and promote this unique partnership, Girard-Perregaux will use iconic images from the Academy’s photography collection in GP advertisements and will launch a series of special initiatives. “We are honored to be working alongside the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences on this extraordinary venture”, says Michele Sofisti, CEO of the Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JEANRICHARD). “We understand the importance of preserving the heritage and history of film making which, like watchmaking, requires an immense amount of love, work and dedication".
"We are thrilled to be partnering with Girard-Perregaux on the creation of the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures”, notes Bill Kramer, Managing Director of Development for the Academy Museum. "Girard-Perregaux’s commitment to artistic excellence and technological advancement is a perfect fit for the Academy Museum. We look forward to working with them to realize this long-held dream of the Academy and the moviemaking industry."

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

A few minutes with Willy Schweizer

Sometimes you get some wonderful opportunities, and my visit to Girard-Perregaux's Headquarters and Manufacture this past March was right up there in a "Wonka Golden Ticket" sort of way.  I was very excited to see the operation, observe first hand how movements were assembled and watches were made.  I was also anxious to look at the buildings, take in the architecture, and try to get a sense of what the place is like on a daily basis.

But in all honesty, the high point of the day was spending time with the conservateur of the museums, and to some extent the guardian of the legacy of Girard-Perregaux and Gino Macaluso.  A historian, curator, and genuinely interesting guy.  

When I think of the stereotypical museum worker, I tend to think of a fussy person scurrying about, with a better rapport for objects than people.  Girard-Perregaux's Willy Schweizer - not so much!  Engaging, extremely knowledgeable, a communicator beyond compare... and frankly, an extremely gifted story teller.  

And now a few minutes with the Poet Laureate of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Willy Schweizer -




James Henderson - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Willy Schweizer - It was a non-branded manual-wind, made by the students of the watchmaking school of la Chaux-de-Fonds. It was a gift from my father for my 8th birthday.


JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be when you "grew up"?
WS - I had 2 dreams : aviation and car racing, which both came true, but not professionally : I am private pilot and I used to race in the Swiss and European rally championships.


JH - My understanding is that you almost didn't get involved in the watch industry? I believe that you studied something a bit removed from main-springs and tourbillons?

WS - Not exactly - I come from a family of watchmakers, but I am not a watchmaker myself, because when I had to choose a profession in the 1970’s, watchmaking was in crisis and within less than 10 years, the number of jobs fell from 150.000 to 30.000.  In this context, everybody was thinking that this trade would disappear sooner or later.  So I studied history at the University of Neuchâtel, with a special interest in local history and watchmaking.  When I graduated, I started at the Swissair aviation school, but after one year, they said my eyes were not good enough.  So, with the idea of entering into the watchmaking world, I sudied marketing in St-Gallen.


JH - After your studies, what was your first job in the working world?


WS - Marketing and sales at Zenith, for the Swiss market.


JH -  So from History, to the watch industry, to museum curator - was that at all how you planned it?

WS - Certainly not.  When I moved to Girard-Perregaux in 1984, the logo was already referring to 1791 (« fine watches since 1791 »), but nothing was done to enlighten the rich history of the brand, so I started to work on that immediately, and we opened a first Museum in 1991, the year of our bicentenary.


JH - What brought you to Girard-Perregaux originally?  What was your first job there?


WS - The opportunity to work on the international markets.  I was in charge of Germany, Britain and the Middle-East.


JH - Lately, it has been said that there are now essentially three "ages" of Girard-Perregaux: Pre- Gino Macaluso, Gino Macaluso, and Post-Gino Macaluso.
What was GP like in the time you were there before he arrived?



WS - It was a small company (60 people), producing nice watches, but watches which did not correspond to the demand : high end already, but with quartz movements.




JH - If you can put your finger on it, what was the one most important change that he made?


WS - Precisely that he changed completely the products, which were then exactly in line with the demand of the international markets.

JH - When did the idea come about to create the museums?


WS - The date of foundation of GP is 1791 and we have been constantly active since then, so the history is authentic.  When we started to think about the celebrations of the bicentenary, I thought it logical to show this history to the public, through watches we have been patiently collecting over the years.


JH - In the past year, your museum has gone on a world tour - what was that like?

WS - A very rich, but also scary experience : imagine that all the most precious watches of the Museum were on tour, without exception, and that anything could have happened. What is almost incredible is that we needed 15 tons of material to display them properly…



JH - What was your favorite "stop" during the world tour?


WS - With cities as different as Singapore, Shanghai, Paris or New-York, you cannot really put it this way.  Each time, the exhibition was much appreciated, with many visitors, but for reasons that were never the same.  I liked Shanghai quite a lot, but maybe because it was my first time there.




JH - What is a typical day in the life of Will Schweizer?


WS - I like to start early, like 07.30. First I read my emails and reply immediately to those which do not need a research. I am in charge of the factory tours, which start either at 09.00 or 14.00. the rest of the time is dedicated to meetings, preparation of texts or of exhibitions, research, monitoring of auctions or sales in order to complete the collections of the Museum. And there are the days when I travel.






JH - You have often said that if you wrote a book about Girard-Perregaux or La Chaux-de-Fonds, you would actually have to write 2 books. What do you mean by that?


WS - There is what is politically correct and there is the reality, which often do not superimpose exactly.  So, let us say that the first book would be as close as possible to the reality and the second would tell what happened exactly.


JH - So what is one story or event that the general public might not be aware of that would appear in the "second book"?


WS - It is a bit too early to unveil one.  Everybody knows that the shortest way between 2 points is the straight line, but very often things do not happen so ideally.




JH - What is your favorite Girard-Perregaux watch? And for Jean Richard?


Courtesy of JeanRichard
WS - The Tourbillon with three gold Bridges in its skeleton, selwinding version for GP and the Diverscope LPR for JR.


JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?


WS - I don’t have a preference. For me, anybody making an innovative and interesting watch works in the right direction and deserves respect.


JH - What is the Swiss watch industry doing right?


WS - To keep on working like above. That is what our public expects from us.


JH - Where can the Swiss watch industry improve?


WS - Maybe less opportunism and more morality. I was shocked when I heard that Switzerland exported watches to Syria last May, for a value of 8 million of Swiss Francs.



JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?



WS - Good question ! I promise i’ll start to think about it : after all, in theory, I shall be retired in less than 9 years…


JH - What advice do you have for aspiring horological historians and curators?


WS - No doubt that the interest for watchmaking has been tremendously growing these last 20 years, in every respect, and history is part of it.  Not every brand has a history like GP.  However, quite a number of brands have the legitimacy to tell stories : Look at JeanRichard, whose history is incomplete, but where I created a museum of watchmaking machines and tools which is unique in the world.  A Museum will never be a profit center, but can be a tremendous communication tool : all brands which are concerned should consider it under this angle.  So there is still a lot of work and space for all those who have ideas.

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Girard-Perregaux certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)

This is the type of news that most blogs and forums don't cover.  It isn't sexy - at least not in the "watch as pornography" way we tend to think about watches.  Further we tend to think of industry news (such as comings and goings) with the same sort of titillation generally reserved for People Magazine.


So today, I wanted to share some good, honest and real news.  Girard-Perregaux has been certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC).  




Responsible and ethical business behavior - I think that's pretty sexy!


Here's the news, straight from La Chaux-de-Fonds -


Girard-Perregaux, iconic high-end Swiss watch manufacturer, is proud to announce that it has achieved Responsible Jewelry Council certification by meeting the ethical, social and environmental standards established by the RJC’s Member Certification System.

'We are honored to be accredited by the Responsible Jewelry Council. This certification underpins Girard-Perregaux's belief in corporate social responsibility and sustainability, while we continue to work towards achieving the highest ethical best practices both internally and externally in our business. This is an encouragement to push forward with our commitment!' says Sowind (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard) CEO Michele Sofisti.



As part of the PPR Group, Girard-Perregaux is also working closely with PPR’s sustainability experts in PPR HOME in striving to ensure traceability and the company champions PPR’s commitment to source 100% of gold and diamonds used in the Group’s products from verified operations that do not have a harmful impact on local communities, wildlife or the ecosystems which support them, by 2016.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Michael Margolis Joins Sowind Group’s team as President of America

And now the official announcement - as seen in our partner site Chronometers.org
http://www.chronometers.org/


Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland (February 16, 2012) – Girard-Perregaux, iconic luxury Swiss watch brand, and JeanRichard are proud to announce the appointment of Michael Margolis to its team as the new President of America for the Sowind Group. Margolis will join Michele Sofisti, Sowind Group CEO, Stefano Macaluso, Girard-Perregaux Managing Director, and Massimo Macaluso, JeanRichard Managing Director, to oversee the U.S. expansion strategy. Born in the United States, Margolis graduated with a double major in Latin American Studies and Foreign Languages from the University of Connecticut. Proficient in English, Spanish, Portuguese and German, he began a sales career at Crest Reprographics and later on moved on to Nikon. His life in the watch industry came as a result of his passion for luxury timepieces, which he developed as TimeZone.com moderator from 1996 till 2007. It was at this time that Margolis began his professional career in the watch industry, when at the time Hublot CEO, Jean-Claude Biver, brought him into the team as Sales Director in the U.S.


Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
“Mike is a remarkable individual, with true passion for the craft”, says Michele Sofisti, CEO of Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard). “We are very glad to have him on board to lead the U.S. team into this new phase of the brand and are sure that together we will be very successful”.



Margolis will join the Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard) as President of America starting March 1st, 2012, where he will use his long experience and success in the watch industry to help the brands achieve their ambitious goals in the U.S. market.



“I am very excited and honored to join iconic brands like Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard”, says Michael Margolis. “I have admired the brands and their heritage from afar for many years and greatly look forward to being a part of the team”.





About Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux is a Swiss high-end watch manufacturer tracing its origins back to 1791. The history of the brand is marked by legendary watches that combine sharp design with innovative technology such as the renowned Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges presented by Constant Girard-Perregaux in 1889 at the Paris Universal exhibition where he was awarded a gold medal.

Devoted to the creation of state-of-the-art Haute Horlogerie, the Brand is one of the very few watchmakers to unite under the same roof all the skills to design and manufacture watches including the forging of their heart, the movement. With over 80 registered patents, Girard-Perregaux is fully committed to research and development to constantly fuse its unique heritage into modern watchmaking.



About Jeanrichard

Jeanrichard is a Swiss watchmaker that designs and creates high quality watches, combining traditional knowledge and skills with a truly innovative approach. Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Jeanrichard enjoys extensive creative and technical independence, promoting in-house development of watches.



With roots going all way back to 1681 and links to the watchmaking genius Daniel Jeanrichard (famed as one of the founding fathers of the Swiss watchmaking industry), the brand was taken over by Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux) in 1988. Jeanrichard has been successfully reinterpreting time ever since, injecting contemporary energy inspired by a tradition on pioneering spirit. Acquascope, Highlands… Each collection has an assertive identity and combines a high level of expertise with the curiosity for discovering new horizons.