Showing posts with label Vintage 1966. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vintage 1966. Show all posts

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Vintage 1966 with a Twist

The twist of a lathe!  This is the latest iteration of Girard-Perregaux's Vintage 1966 collection.  Measuring 38 mm, it is a little bit more of a restrained size that today's tendencies towards 42 - 44 mm.  It is a nice approach as a little bit less can often be more.
Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux
The case is pink gold, featuring a sapphire crystal display back. The movement is GP's
GP03300-00030-OM5A which is self-winding and boasts 46 hours of power reserve.

Perhaps the best feature of this latest model, at least in my estimation, is the dial. It is guilloché and truly lends something special to the look and feel.  Classic.

The strap is black alligator, secured with a pink gold buckle.

If I am honest, this is really the first of the Vintage 66s that has truly hit the target for me on all levels.    The size is reasonable, the case and dial are a perfect match, and the date window (which often looks as if it wasn't given much thought at all) is actually beautifully executed with a clear and visible date indication.  

My hope is that this marks a turning point for Girard-Perregaux.  Having visited the factory and met the people behind the watches, I can tell you that it is a very, very special place.  GP is blessed with a wealth of incredibly talented, creative, artistic and intelligent people.  But if I'm honest, the one thing (at least to me) that has been missing is the "Calatrava".  That one singularly classic piece.  The 1966 collection has been a positive step in the right direction, but it still didn't fully connect, at least not for me.  

Granted, I am a hopeless romantic, but it's hard not to be romantic about watches.

Well done Girard-Perregaux.  Cautiously optimistic in Santa Barbara.















Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Feeling Blue - in a Good Way

Two very beautiful new pieces from Girard-Perregaux.  Here are the details straight from the source -

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux


Girard-Perregaux 1966 

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 model combines understatement, delicacy and precision. It is admirably balanced design and well-proportioned dimensions make it one of the most immaculately finished timepieces. 

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

A few minutes with Willy Schweizer

Sometimes you get some wonderful opportunities, and my visit to Girard-Perregaux's Headquarters and Manufacture this past March was right up there in a "Wonka Golden Ticket" sort of way.  I was very excited to see the operation, observe first hand how movements were assembled and watches were made.  I was also anxious to look at the buildings, take in the architecture, and try to get a sense of what the place is like on a daily basis.

But in all honesty, the high point of the day was spending time with the conservateur of the museums, and to some extent the guardian of the legacy of Girard-Perregaux and Gino Macaluso.  A historian, curator, and genuinely interesting guy.  

When I think of the stereotypical museum worker, I tend to think of a fussy person scurrying about, with a better rapport for objects than people.  Girard-Perregaux's Willy Schweizer - not so much!  Engaging, extremely knowledgeable, a communicator beyond compare... and frankly, an extremely gifted story teller.  

And now a few minutes with the Poet Laureate of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Willy Schweizer -




James Henderson - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Willy Schweizer - It was a non-branded manual-wind, made by the students of the watchmaking school of la Chaux-de-Fonds. It was a gift from my father for my 8th birthday.


JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be when you "grew up"?
WS - I had 2 dreams : aviation and car racing, which both came true, but not professionally : I am private pilot and I used to race in the Swiss and European rally championships.


JH - My understanding is that you almost didn't get involved in the watch industry? I believe that you studied something a bit removed from main-springs and tourbillons?

WS - Not exactly - I come from a family of watchmakers, but I am not a watchmaker myself, because when I had to choose a profession in the 1970’s, watchmaking was in crisis and within less than 10 years, the number of jobs fell from 150.000 to 30.000.  In this context, everybody was thinking that this trade would disappear sooner or later.  So I studied history at the University of Neuchâtel, with a special interest in local history and watchmaking.  When I graduated, I started at the Swissair aviation school, but after one year, they said my eyes were not good enough.  So, with the idea of entering into the watchmaking world, I sudied marketing in St-Gallen.


JH - After your studies, what was your first job in the working world?


WS - Marketing and sales at Zenith, for the Swiss market.


JH -  So from History, to the watch industry, to museum curator - was that at all how you planned it?

WS - Certainly not.  When I moved to Girard-Perregaux in 1984, the logo was already referring to 1791 (« fine watches since 1791 »), but nothing was done to enlighten the rich history of the brand, so I started to work on that immediately, and we opened a first Museum in 1991, the year of our bicentenary.


JH - What brought you to Girard-Perregaux originally?  What was your first job there?


WS - The opportunity to work on the international markets.  I was in charge of Germany, Britain and the Middle-East.


JH - Lately, it has been said that there are now essentially three "ages" of Girard-Perregaux: Pre- Gino Macaluso, Gino Macaluso, and Post-Gino Macaluso.
What was GP like in the time you were there before he arrived?



WS - It was a small company (60 people), producing nice watches, but watches which did not correspond to the demand : high end already, but with quartz movements.




JH - If you can put your finger on it, what was the one most important change that he made?


WS - Precisely that he changed completely the products, which were then exactly in line with the demand of the international markets.

JH - When did the idea come about to create the museums?


WS - The date of foundation of GP is 1791 and we have been constantly active since then, so the history is authentic.  When we started to think about the celebrations of the bicentenary, I thought it logical to show this history to the public, through watches we have been patiently collecting over the years.


JH - In the past year, your museum has gone on a world tour - what was that like?

WS - A very rich, but also scary experience : imagine that all the most precious watches of the Museum were on tour, without exception, and that anything could have happened. What is almost incredible is that we needed 15 tons of material to display them properly…



JH - What was your favorite "stop" during the world tour?


WS - With cities as different as Singapore, Shanghai, Paris or New-York, you cannot really put it this way.  Each time, the exhibition was much appreciated, with many visitors, but for reasons that were never the same.  I liked Shanghai quite a lot, but maybe because it was my first time there.




JH - What is a typical day in the life of Will Schweizer?


WS - I like to start early, like 07.30. First I read my emails and reply immediately to those which do not need a research. I am in charge of the factory tours, which start either at 09.00 or 14.00. the rest of the time is dedicated to meetings, preparation of texts or of exhibitions, research, monitoring of auctions or sales in order to complete the collections of the Museum. And there are the days when I travel.






JH - You have often said that if you wrote a book about Girard-Perregaux or La Chaux-de-Fonds, you would actually have to write 2 books. What do you mean by that?


WS - There is what is politically correct and there is the reality, which often do not superimpose exactly.  So, let us say that the first book would be as close as possible to the reality and the second would tell what happened exactly.


JH - So what is one story or event that the general public might not be aware of that would appear in the "second book"?


WS - It is a bit too early to unveil one.  Everybody knows that the shortest way between 2 points is the straight line, but very often things do not happen so ideally.




JH - What is your favorite Girard-Perregaux watch? And for Jean Richard?


Courtesy of JeanRichard
WS - The Tourbillon with three gold Bridges in its skeleton, selwinding version for GP and the Diverscope LPR for JR.


JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?


WS - I don’t have a preference. For me, anybody making an innovative and interesting watch works in the right direction and deserves respect.


JH - What is the Swiss watch industry doing right?


WS - To keep on working like above. That is what our public expects from us.


JH - Where can the Swiss watch industry improve?


WS - Maybe less opportunism and more morality. I was shocked when I heard that Switzerland exported watches to Syria last May, for a value of 8 million of Swiss Francs.



JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?



WS - Good question ! I promise i’ll start to think about it : after all, in theory, I shall be retired in less than 9 years…


JH - What advice do you have for aspiring horological historians and curators?


WS - No doubt that the interest for watchmaking has been tremendously growing these last 20 years, in every respect, and history is part of it.  Not every brand has a history like GP.  However, quite a number of brands have the legitimacy to tell stories : Look at JeanRichard, whose history is incomplete, but where I created a museum of watchmaking machines and tools which is unique in the world.  A Museum will never be a profit center, but can be a tremendous communication tool : all brands which are concerned should consider it under this angle.  So there is still a lot of work and space for all those who have ideas.

Monday, March 26, 2012

A Grand Day Out - Part 5

So what does it take to work for Girard-Perregaux?  Willy gave me a good idea about this after visiting the first display room.

Inside the JeanRichard museum, there is a training center.  And this is not just any sort of training center, this is the place where all new Girard-Perregaux/JeanRichard team members "cut their teeth"before joining the team.  I asked Willy if this was just new watch makers, and he assured me that no, in fact all of the GP/JR team spend a few days "at the bench".  I was a bit befuddled by this, so he explained - and again I am going from memory - "how can we expect sales and marketing people to talk about our watches if they don't understand how they are made?"

Thanks to a right hand bent and warped from a cycling accident, I strongly suspect I will never be sitting in one of these hallowed seats.  And the setting is just beyond belief.  Clean, airy and... perfect.  And while I realize that it is a training center/workshop - it is in such a wonderfully beautiful space.  For lack of a better right "paw"I'd be in there.  I asked Willy how Dimitra from Public Relations did - and apparently she passed with flying colors!   This is a state of the art training center - the computer age meeting the hand-crafts.

This is truly the "Dream Factory".  

One more entry - stay tuned!

Sunday, March 25, 2012

A Grand Day Out - Part 4

So after the Manufacture, we were off to the JeanRichard Museum.

And who better to get the grand tour from than the Conservateur des Musees - Willy Schweizer?

The museum itself has an upper and lower floor - the upper being administrative offices, and the lower level being divided into three uniquely defined areas.  We entered into what Willy informed me was a library that he is in the process of assembling.  Yes, it is a library, but it is also a very elegant lounge-type area, some beautiful mid-century furniture, airy, spacious and, well - perfect!
Photos and keepsakes of "friends and family"abound.  This is just the sort of place you'd want to visit to relax and talk about your passions.  My understanding is that the library is currently "in process" but Willy is off to a fantastic start.

From the library we moved to one of the main collection rooms which housed tools and pieces from the era of the original Daniel JeanRichard.  Legend has it that a wealthy man had bought a watch in London, and upon his return to Switzerland it was not working, and that the young JeanRichard without proper tools or training was able to repair it, as referenced in the painting above.

I have to say that the sequencing of the tour - first the modern manufacture, and then the museum was particularly well thought out.  From the present (and in many ways the future) to go back to a time where there were no standard measurements.  To that end, the making, and repair of a watch was a very personal thing.

And you could see the progression from a solitary pursuit, to the gradual "industrialization" with several sets of hands coming together to work on a common project.


There's more to come from the museum - stay tuned!

Thursday, March 22, 2012

A Grand Day Out - part 3

So I believe we were talking about watches!  These are for some very special people - you'll have to read to the end to find out who they are going to.

Willy continued to lead me through the various stages of production and assembly.  As he said again and again - "our grandfathers don't work here".  What was truly astonishing to me was the sheer volume of production performed at such an exacting level of quality.  At every step of the way, there are MULTIPLE quality control checks.  If any part of the watch doesn't meet the exacting specifications?  Back it goes until it does!

But I would have to agree emphatically, that all of that attention to detail is worth it!  There are a lot of "haute/luxury" watch brands out there, and sometimes it is difficult to understand why they cost what they do.  As Gertrude Stein once said about Oakland - "There's no 'there' there".  Not so with Girard-Perregaux - having seen the amount of work, care and attention that goes into every Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard - I can assure you that you get even more than what you pay for!

By the way - this is my ALL-TIME dream watch!  I am proud to say that one of these did not find its way into my bag!  The temptation, I can assure you, was strong!  So I will need to start the GP Vintage 1945 fund!
And this one is timeless.  This is not a fad, it is not of the moment - it is of EVERY moment.  This is a watch that will be passed from father to son.

And JeanRichard really is a manufacture brand!  It is easy to discount JeanRichard as a poor relation - but this is really not so.  This is obvious in walking through the manufacture - there is not a "B" team or a JR/GP division of labor or know-how.  Both fantastic brands are worked on by the "A" team.

And those chronographs at the beginning of today's installment?  They are 30 year service awards for a certain transportation manufacturer in Turin.  Let's see... I'm 43 now, maybe I could still squeeze 30 years in...

More to come - including a history lesson from the Professor himself,  Willy Schweizer.