15 Days with The Chinese Timekeeper

And we are off on another 15 day adventure!  This is the Chinese Timekeeper's CTK08.

Day one, and already it looks like it is going to be a fantastic two weeks!

Stay tuned!

Looking Back and Looking Forward

Courtesy of DOXA

It is interesting looking back on things.  The first big PR project that I had when I was with DOXA was liaising with PADI.  Anyone who knows diving, knows that PADI is synonymous with the instruction and promotion of SCUBA diving not just in North America, but around the world.  What was fun was getting to know people like Karl Shreeves, and well as many of the other folks at PADI.  Hearing their stories - what got them involved in Diving, what brought and kept them with PADI as a career choice.

Getting to know the PADI folks, I also got to know the people at Project AWARE,  a non-profit dedicated to the preservation of the earth's oceans.  I proposed the idea of a co-branded Project AWARE watch with some of the proceeds going to them.  The folks at DOXA HQ liked the idea, and in fairly short order, the DOXA Project AWARE was released at the Las Vegas DEMA show in 2008. 

And looking back on it all, its funny.  I met Karl Shreeves quite by accident, in an earlier "professional life" in 2007.  I was working for a photography school and my colleagues and I were hosting a booth at a photography convention in Pasadena.  Karl came by the booth.  We got to talking, and he agreed to come and give a "career day" presentation on being an underwater photographer.  The very day he came to the school was the day that DOXA invited me to an interview.  The VERY SAME DAY!  He then became my main point of contact at PADI, which led to Project AWARE, and later the Ocean Future's Society and Jean-Michel Cousteau.



Life is pretty random, but sometimes the randomness seems to have a direction.  So keep your eyes and ears open pals and gals!  You never know were things are going to lead you.

Step-monsters and pocket watches

So I need to start this post off by acknowledging that there are MANY kind, loving and wonderful people out there who are step-parents. In these cases, to be clear, the title is a misnomer. They treat their "step-children" like their own. They are supportive and caring - pretty much everything that you would want and hope for from a parent.  So for all of your "SUPER STEP-PARENTS" out there - keep on keeping on, and this story is not about you!

Because somewhere between the wicked step-mother in Snow White, and her polar opposite Mike and Carol Brady (for you non-US/non atomic-aged readers out there, google "The Brady Bunch" Television show for more details) is where most step parents are.  For my part, my sisters and I got a bit of a lemon.  Without putting you to sleep with the details, the short form is:  Great Grandfather's pocket watch promised to - well me of course!  Father makes this clear, Step-Mother is aware, father "strokes out" suddenly, leaving entire estate to Step-Mother.  Step-Mother becomes incommunicado, and refuses to part with the watch - i.e. I will not be seeing that watch in this lifetime.

So a pocket watch took on a nearly talismanic quality to me.  It began to really gnaw away at me, creeping into my waking thoughts on an increasingly daily basis.  This was really made clear to me on my last visit to BaselWorld and my stay in Lucerne.  Walking past (what I believe) is the Bucherer flagship store.

For many folks out there, Bucherer is the Tiffany of Switzerland.  A place where family heirlooms are purchased, engraved,  and brought for future servicing, etc.  It has a certain constancy to it, lending a very solid feeling.  Having met the current CEO Sascha Moeri at the SWISS Watch show in Las Vegas this past June, I can say that this feeling is alive and well.  Both Mr. Moeri and his predecessor Thomas Morf have been truly dedicated stewards of the Bucherer tradition.

So to me it seemed only logical, that perhaps it was time to start a new family tradition for the Henkis, and Bucherer seemed the right watch to find.  And thanks to my friend in Cyprus - Andreas S. Gregoriades, this beautifully simple Bucherer pocket watch will now mark time for me and later for one of my nephews or nieces.


So for all of you step-parents out there - if you're half-assing it, do a better job.  And for you step-children, try to be understanding and patient.  Not to get all spiritual on you this early in the day, but  keep in mind that nothing lasts forever - be it a person, or a watch.  We are all passing through time.  Just try to make the most of it.

On the street in Santa Barbara

It goes without saying, Santa Barbara is a destination.  Last Sunday while riding out past Hope Ranch, I took a break to catch my break and look out at the ocean before heading back into town.

A young couple (you hit 44 and suddenly everyone seems young) asked for a photo of them looking out on the water.  In return, I got a picture of his Rolex Submariner -

Shot with my iPhone - but there you go.  Something to be said for the classics, and this Submariner certainly fits the bill!

The Stewards of Breguet

Courtesy of Breguet

It its easy to forget the basics.  

The watch world today is, at times, a bit schizophrenic.  New brands born in an instant, old brands bought, sold, consolidated, regurgitated.  Sometimes the focus is on pushing the next thing.  A certain brand releases the next 5 limited editions - technological break-through pieces cunningly fashioned of "Unobtainium", all seemingly the same except for the signature of the celebrity on the dial.

Or the other extreme - each piece individually crafted and assembled by magical Swiss elves, the dials polished by the tears of Arcadian virgins.  

Perhaps we could simply talk about the watch?  

Granted - Breguet is owned by a large corporation.  And yes, they are one of several brands in the "stable".  And yes they have a seemingly endless amount of resources upon which to draw on.  All of this is true.

BUT -

when you look at, hold, and (if you're lucky enough) wear a Breguet - all of the noise fades away.  Yes, there is history, there is a story, and a marketing budget that would make the candidates running for the US Presidency drool with envy.  But to simply put it all down to money is disingenuous.  Despite what you might hear, there is plenty of money in the Swiss watch industry.  The challenge is to balance what is spent outside (marketing, etc.) with what is spent inside (R&D and quality control).  And with Breguet, I sincerely believe that at least in ONE area, the SWATCH group has struck the appropriate balance.

There are several brands that simply throw money around - branding with race cars, partnering with Hollywood stars, or big-time Ballers in the NBA.  But with all of that noise, you lose track of what the company actually MAKES - watches.

I will state this for one and all to read - the SWATCH group does a LOT of things that despite their claims, are in fact, very detrimental to the watch industry.  When it comes to springs (Nivarox), their approach has been not unlike a playground crack dealer -

"The first one's free, tell all your friends!"

They have built up a dependence and are now cutting the legs out from under a LOT of companies that they depended upon in the darker days - darker days which were not so long ago, and if certain financial analysts are to be believed could be back again in the not-so-distant future.

But you have to give them their due in other areas.  With Breguet they have proven themselves to be not just brand owners - but sincere and legitimate Stewards of A.-L. Breguet's vision.   To visit a Breguet boutique, to hold a Breguet watch - you can understand WHY they cost what they do, and why they are worth it.  These are not "of the moment" design impulses, these are real watches designed to last for several lifetimes.


Now if Swatch could show the same discipline with Blancpain and Jaquet Droz, they might be onto something!

A few announcements

As some of you long-term readers will know, this little "bloggy-wog" was created from a frustration over the manner in which watches were written about or discussed. 

My intention then was to have a blog where I could write about the watches and companies that interested me, and also focus more upon people in the industry.  Tempus Fugit is now past its second birthday and I want to thank all of you who take the time to tune in regularly for your continued support.  I would also like to thank the PR and marketing folks who have kept me in touch and supplied with story ideas.

One of the things that you will no longer be seeing here are "straight to press" press releases/announcements.  My new baby - Chronometers.org (http://www.chronometers.org/) is finally up and walking around on its own!  That end, there will be a return to the quest for content - not filler.  Having said that - for you news mavens out there seeking the latest breaking news, Chronometers.org should be your new go-to site for the latest watch news updates.

Another thing you will start to see will be advertising.  It had to happen eventually!  You have my word to try and keep it tasteful and relevant!

Thank you again for your support over these past two years, and here's to the future!

Stay tuned -

Alpina's Racing Collection

Alpina's Racing Collection offers both a chronograph and time only model -

Courtesy of Alpina

The time only model features, hours, minutes, seconds and the date.  A sporty design that embodies the spirit of racing.  

Courtesy of Alpina

Reference AL-535AB5AR26 / AL-535B5AR26 

Movement Automatic calibre with Date, AL-535 

Power reserve 42 hours 

Black Alpina rotor decorated with “Côtes de Genève” 

Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date. 

Case New round Racing stainless steel case, 47 mm diameter 

3-part case, fixed bezel with hand applied indexes 

Sapphire crystal, see-through case back 

10 ATM Water-resistant 

Dial: Matte Black dial with red elements, decorated Alpina triangle pattern in the centre. 

White luminous Arabic numerals on AL-535AB5AR26, white painted luminous hands. 

Date at 3 o’clock 

Seconds counter at 6 o’clock 

Strap: Black with red stitching with black PVD Alpina folding buckle. 

Courtesy of Alpina

The Chronograph is a like an instrument gauge for the wrist.  2 registers located at 12 and 6 o'clock, with a date function at 3 o'clock.

Reference AL-725AB5AR26 / AL-725B5AR26 

Movement Automatic Chronograph with Date, caliber AL-725 

Power reserve 42 hours 

Black Alpina rotor decorated with “Côtes de Genève” 

Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and date. 

Case New round Racing stainless steel case, 47 mm diameter 

3-part case, fixed bezel with hand applied indexes 

Sapphire crystal, see-through case back 

10 ATM Water-resistant 

Dial: Matte Black dial with red elements, decorated Alpina triangle pattern in the centre. 

Black & red elements subdials for chrono counters 

White luminous Arabic numerals on AL-725ABR5AR26, white painted luminous hands. 

Date at 3 o’clock 

Strap: Black with red stitching with black PVD Alpina folding buckle. 

A bit of sullduggery from Perrelet - warning, it's TOXIC!

These are some of the latest limited releases from Perrelet -


Courtesy of Perrelet

 This is the Turbine Toxic Limited Edition.  This is a DLC treated stainless steel case, anchored by a rubber strap measuring a robust 50 mm.  The turbine spins to reveal  -

Courtesy of Perrelet

It is also available in a smaller version, a 41 mm-diameter Turbine Toxic XS in DLC-treated steel on a rubber or satin strap.

Courtesy of Perrelet

Check out the Turbine film to see the turbine effect in action -
http://www.turbineperrelet.com/movie?v=turbine-toxic

Bottany Bay from Arnold & Sons

With a new distributor ready to take the wheel here in North America, I thought it would be fun to check out one of Arnold & Son's pieces from their Hornet James Cook Set - the Bottany Bay.

Courtesy of Arnold & Sons

This is 18 cts of pure Swiss horological goodness!  I am a sucker for world timers, and this one is no exception!  but beyond multiple time-zones and the beauty of the rose gold, it is the story that is told through the dial - a depiction of the landing at Bottany Bay, beautifully illustrated and worthy of such a beautiful world timer. 

I also must admit that the use of the sun as an embellishment to the second timezone's hand is a special touch.  Here are the details for those of you statistically inclined, direct from Arnold & Sons:

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, multiple time zone display, mean solar time, big date display at 5 o'clock.

Time zone pushpiece at 2 o'clock. Second time zone adjustment crown at 10 o'clock. World Timer outer ring rotating adjustment at 9 o'clock. Four central hands. 1) Hour triangle red-tipped hands 2) Long minute hand 3) First time zone shown by a long triangle-tipped hand with white superluminova completing a full turn of the dial in 24 hours 4) The long sun-tipped hand with red superluminova, can be set to show time zones in half-and quarter-hours, a useful aid in parts of the world like India and the Pacific. It also slides, permitting it to be set to display the mean solar time of any location according to its longitude.

CALIBER


A1766

Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding, 41 jewels, diameter 38.55 mm, thickness 7.05 mm, power reserve 42 h, 28'800 vibrations /h Movement decoration: rhodium treated with fine circular graining and 'Côtes de Genève'.

CASE


18-Carat Rose Gold,

diameter 47mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back metallic sapphire

An amuse-bouche from Arcadia

Courtesy of Arcadia 

This is from the Contemporary range of Arcadia.  Arcadia is a brand you might not have heard of yet, but I suspect that will be changing in the coming months.

I will be featuring further, more in-depth information on both Arcadia and its various models in the coming weeks.

Stay tuned!

DESIRE - The Traversetolo

Courtesy of Eberhard

Eberhard's Traversetolo is a watch that I feel very familiar with.  It is, to my way of thinking, one of the true classics, it is instantly recognizable.  Back in my time at Tourneau, it was the one watch I was able to sell to a Paneristi who came in looking for another Panerai.  He bought two Traversetolos instead.  He would have loved this one.

For many years, the Traversetolo has stayed somewhat the same - white or black, right hand or left.  But this version is something special.  This is different, slightly sportier, a tad more modern but still clearly the Traversetolo.  The DNA is there - a hand-wound watch, large and visible, almost like a pocket watch on the wrist.  The subtle tone of the hands and the markers is a fantastic touch.

I love the balance of the dial, the use of red accents both on the dial (and the strap!) adds a nice element,  and creates a new dimension to an old icon.

In a world crammed full of multi-function watches, there is something very reassuring about a hand-wound time only watch

It is official - I am obsessed!

TERRANAUT Funding Project

As a watch blogger, I am frequently writing about big brands with big budgets.  But every now and then it's fun to hear (and write) about the smaller groups out there trying to make something new and different.

The folks at TERRANAUT are trying to get a new watch packaging option off the ground, and are looking for backers.  This is your opportunity to take part in a watch companies expansion, and there are nice little incentives for those who participate.

Here is what the hoped-for product will look like:

So in the interest of helping spread the word - here is the info:

Video Presentation:
http://vimeo.com/44753275

Link to the site to read more
http://pleasefund.us/projects/terranaut-watches

And here's their pitch -

Crowd-Funding Project for new British XL Watch Brand



XL watches are now a well-established trend. But our customers complained that many oversized watches are just too extreme to wear every day — they were spending a small fortune but only wearing their watch a few times per year.


So, as sales of its £1000+ timepieces dwindled, a British-based watch distribution company — which has spent the past 9 years sourcing and selling premium luxury watches — began work on a new mid-market watch brand.


After two years in development, we are pleased to present our brand; TERRANAUT and its first collection; the XL 50MM. TERRANAUT is the oversized watch that excels in wearer comfort. The RRP will be around £299.


Now, we need your help to perfect our offering. You can get involved today at:


PleaseFund.us/projects/terranaut-watches






The opportunity to participate in our crowd-funding project ends on Sunday 5th August. So, get hold of your TERRANAUT before everyone else and save up to 60% off RRP!






Exclusive features of the XL 50MM you won’t find on other watches for this price:


• Lugs retracted behind the watch case to give a ‘footprint’ on the wrist that feels like you’re wearing a much smaller watch


• Extra-long strap with deep padding — as standard — fabricated by a specialist watch strap maker


• Carbon fiber dial with C3 SuperLuminova™ shows the timing functions loud-and-clear, day-or-night


• Never-before-seen — Glow-in-the-Dark — leather strap in development


• ABS shockproof & water-resistant storage case — at no extra cost — when you get your XL 50MM at

PleaseFund.us/projects/terranaut-watches


www.terranautwatch.com

Carl F. Bucherer's Patravi TravelTec FourX

The new Patravi TravelTec FourX is Carl F. Bucherer's latest offering.

Incorporating Titanium, ceramic, rubber, and in rose gold.  Three timezones help you not only know where you are, but where you're going, and where you've been.  The chronograph is an added, and useful function ensuring that this is far more than a travel watch, but one well-suited to life's every day adventures.

Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer

Here are the details -

Reference number: 00.10620.22.93.01

Movement: automatic, CFB 1901.1 caliber, chronometer, diameter 28.6 mm, height 7.3 mm, 39 jewels, power reserve 42 hours


Functions: chronograph, three time zones, date, hours, minutes, small seconds


Case: 18 K rose gold (in the rose gold version), ceramic bezel, skeletonized dial, screwdown crown and rubber pusher, titanium monopusher, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 46.6 mm, height 15.5 mm

Strap: rubber strap, 18 K rose gold folding clasp



Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer

This is also available in palladium:  00.10620.21.93.01: 950
A palladium case, titanium folding clasp
 

New Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges


And here are the latest horological confections from the dream-weavers at Girard-Perregaux:
The Three Bridge Tourbillon with diamond baguettes.

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

And for those of you without such a "sweet tooth" - The Three Bridge Tourbillon "hold the diamonds".

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

 And for those of you with the means -

Price (with diamonds): $406,500


Price (without diamonds): $211,500


In the words of Willie Woka -

"We are the music makers... and we are the dreamers of dreams."

The Race of Truth

With all of the renewed interest in the integrity of professional cyclists "specimens", I found myself longing for times gone by, where the performance enhancing substances utilized in the Tour was some vin rouge.

A few days back was the first big time trial, or as I have come to think of it, the race of truth.

So for your purists out there, remembering a time when it was man, machine, and maybe too much espresso - something to time an honest ride - my Hanhart MK1

So use your own blood, stick to red wine and espresso, and use a real TIME MACHINE to measure the Race of Truth.

BREMONT’S MAYFAIR BOUTIQUE

This is exciting!  In a world of "cookie cutter" watch boutiques, it is always great to see something original!

Courtesy of Bremont

Bremont's new store is open for business!  Here's the info, straight from Mayfair -

Bremont is delighted to announce the opening of its first stand-alone store which will be located on South Audley Street, Mayfair. Joining an impressive line-up of high-end brands that include Purdey and Marc Jacobs, the boutique will showcase the Bremont collections as well as encompassing the heritage of the brand.

Courtesy of Bremont

Following the successful launch of the brand co-founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2007, it has gone from strength to strength winning several awards such as the Retail Watch Brand of the Year in 2011 as well as Watch Pro’s Luxury Watch and the People’s Choice Award in the watch category at the Couture Watch & Jewellery Show in Las Vegas in 2012.

Courtesy of Bremont

Bremont has seen significant growth across the UK, US and Asian markets and is stocked in over 40 of the best retailers worldwide. It now celebrates the launch of its flagship boutique in London’s Mayfair, occupying two levels it will have a club-like atmosphere with its very own bar.

Giles English, Co-Founder of Bremont: “As a British company we felt we needed a show-case to promote ourselves to visitors from all around the world. The boutique will be more than a traditional watch store. There will be an explorers club based from there, a considerable watch library and it will also be the only place in the world to see unique items like the Bremont B-1 Marine Clock. It is never an easy decision to launch your own boutique, but when we were approached by Grosvenor regarding the location there was no hesitation. We felt it was perfect for our brand.”

www.bremont.com

The new Tetras are here - Ice Cream for watch fans!

Just like a kid listening for the ice cream man's truck, I have now gotten into the habit of waiting anxiously for news from Glashütte!  No, not from Lange, or Glashütte Original.  I am always waiting to hear about NOMOS! 

Courtesy of Nomos

Tetra weltweiß (world white), Tetra zartbitter (bittersweet), Tetra biskuit (scone), 

Tetra himmelblau (heavenly blue)—from left to right 

These are the new Tetras from NOMOS, and I must say that I LOVE the naming conventions that they come up with!  I got to check these out in person at BaselWorld this past March, but now they are ready for "prime time"!

For those of you statistically inclined:

Movement: (alpha)—manufactory caliber with manual winding 

Case: stainless steel, bipartite; size 29.5 by 29.5 mm; sapphire crystal glass; 

steel back, height 6.15 mm (Tetra weltweiß); sapphire crystal glass back, height 6.3 mm; fixed 

with four screws 

Dial: galvanized 

Hands: polished and rhodium-plated 

Water resistant to 3 atm 

Strap: velour 

Reference numbers Tetra weltweiß: 485; Tetra zartbitter: 487; Tetra biskuit: 484; Tetra himmelblau: 486   

 www.nomos-glashuette.com 

An exciting new release from Dubey & Schaldenbrand

WORLD PREMIERE - 

GRAND SHAR DBT Ti TOURBILLON – Limited Edition 

Courtesy of Dubey & Schaldenbrand and Chronometers.org

Dubey & Schaldenbrand celebrate the tradition of watchmaking with their new high-performance Grand Shar DBT Tourbillon model that beats at 21,600 vib/h. This tourbillon movement is housed in an exclusive lightweight case formed from titanium grade 5 and treated by a patented oxidation process that increases the hardness of the material and its mechanical resistance. The unique color of the titanium case is due to in house electro-plasma treatment. This technique is used only in the most innovative of environments, such as the aerospace and medical industries. This process has been improved and optimized for the high quality standards of Dubey & Schaldenbrand, and encompassed into a timepiece with a tourbillon for the first time. 

TECHNICAL DATA 

movement 

Tourbillon base 8001 

oscillations 

21'600 vibrations per hour 

jewels 

12 / incabloc 

power reserve 

100 hours 

functions 

hours and minutes 

dial 

anthracite and silver dial 

hands 

skeleton DS hands, coated with SuperLuminova 

case 

titanium grade 5 treated by oxidation; crown with DS engraving 

dimensions // water resistance 

44 mm // to 50 meters 

watch crystal 

convex spherical inside and outside upper sapphire crystal; anti-reflective on both sides; sapphire case-back 

strap and buckle 

black alligator with buckle in titanium grade 5 treated by oxidation 

Cecil Purnell's Rendez-Vous

This is the Rendez-Vous from Cecil Purnell -

Courtesy of Cecil Purnell and Chronometers.org

A beautiful timekeeper incorporating a tourbillon.  You may not have heard about Cecil Purnell before - but you will be hearing more and more from them in the coming months - Stay tuned!Here are some fo the details - Rendez-Vous

Manual-winding, 55-hour guaranteed power reserve. 21,600 vibrations/hour, (3 Hz) guaranteeing the reliability of the mechanism  while remaining faithful to the principles of traditional watchmaking. 51 Jewels, and 350 components. 5 positions (including an off position) and power reserve indicator. Tourbillon cage (13mm) set between two bridges.

http://cecilpurnell.com

Hanhart Desert Pilot

Courtesy of Hanhart

Okay, yes, I realize that I am somewhat Hanhart obsessed.  That perhaps, I don't know, maybe I've got Diessenhofen "on the brain".  But the new Desert Pilot from Hanhart has got to be just about the singular coolest thing that I've seen in some time.  I got to see it and try it at Basel and again in Las Vegas - and I have to admit that my Pioneer Mk I is starting to get a little bit jealous of all of the time that I am spending admiring this new Primus model.  It is really that great!

Courtesy of Hanhart

I think what I like most about it is the complete sense of departure from previous Hanhart Primus models - this is something completely different.  But that departure has not forgotten the DNA of the Primus line.  There is nothing wrong with Black or Silver - but this is a really great change of pace - something at once different but familiar.  


So here are the specs - 

PRIMUS Desert Pilot

Movement: HAN3809 modified automatic chronograph movement (bicompax), based on the Valjoux 7750 calibre; 28,800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz; 28 jewels; rotor with a skeletonised Hanhart logo; power reserve of min. 42 hours

Functions: Small seconds at 9 o’clock, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, date display at 6 o’clock

Case: Sand-blasted stainless steel; anodised aluminium red reset button; fluted bezel with inlaid red marking; convex, internally anti-reflective sapphire glass; screwed-down, internally anti-reflective sapphire glass case back; large screw-in crown; flexible lugs; diameter 44 mm, height 15 mm; water-resistant to 10 bar/100 m

Dial: Sand-coloured; with black Super-LumiNova®-coated, luminous Arabic numeral, index marks and hands

Strap: Fabric strap; folding clasp with inlaid red marking (anodised aluminum) made from sand-blasted stainless steel

For you North Americans out there, the really good news is that there is now an OFFICIAL Hanhart Distributor who will be bringing Hanhart-goodness to a friendly neighborhood retail partner near you in the coming months!  

Frederique Constant Mini Slimline Ladies

It seems as if most watch blogs are always nearly exclusively about ladies watches.  Well, today let's have some ladies watch news.

Courtesy of Frederique Constant

This is the Mini Slimline from Frederique Constant.  And here is the run-down, straight from FC HQ:

The renowned Frederique Constant Ladies’ Slimline Quartz Collection is a series of glamorous, ultra-flat models designed for our feminine customers. The fine quartz movements upon which this elegant series of watches is based have a thickness of just 1.90 mm. Thin and chic at each and every level; this is the Slimline Collection.



The detailed, eye-catching dials are finished with stunning guilloché patterns, each of which are produced with a highly complex engraving procedure. Precision tools have been developed for each intricate pattern and every delicate dial design; the toolings have tolerances to as little as 1/1000th of a millimeter.


Admire the elegance of the Slimline shape, wonder at the timelessness of style and harmony of the curves of each model within the range. The Frederique Constant attention to fine detail brings modern flair to a classic and ageless image that will still look elegant and fresh for generations.


The Slimline range is presented in materials including stunning stainless steel and rich yellow gold plate, the perfect adornment on the most petite wrists. The curved dials, an acknowledgement of the classic watches from the 1950’s, come in either silver or white, with a truly feminine hearts pattern.


With a nod to every woman’s best friend, the Frederique Constant Mini Slimline collection includes a number of exclusive models with sparkling diamonds on both the dial and the case.

 
www.frederique-constant.com

Hautlence - HL2.0 the Movie

It is sometimes said that a picture is worth a thousand words - how about a "moving picture"?

This is a Youtube video for Hautlence's HL2.0


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jy-hLgBI_sU&feature=plcp

Happy 4th of July!

And in honor of the 4th, some American based watch companies -

Courtesy of the Montana Watch Company

This is the Bridger Field Watch from the Montana Watch company.

Courtesy of RGM and Chronometers.org

The Pennsylvania Tourbillon (MM 2) from RGM

Courtesy of Towson Watch Company and Chronometers.org

And the Moon Phase Chronograph Cockpit from Towson Watch Company

A few minutes with Willy Schweizer

Sometimes you get some wonderful opportunities, and my visit to Girard-Perregaux's Headquarters and Manufacture this past March was right up there in a "Wonka Golden Ticket" sort of way.  I was very excited to see the operation, observe first hand how movements were assembled and watches were made.  I was also anxious to look at the buildings, take in the architecture, and try to get a sense of what the place is like on a daily basis.

But in all honesty, the high point of the day was spending time with the conservateur of the museums, and to some extent the guardian of the legacy of Girard-Perregaux and Gino Macaluso.  A historian, curator, and genuinely interesting guy.  

When I think of the stereotypical museum worker, I tend to think of a fussy person scurrying about, with a better rapport for objects than people.  Girard-Perregaux's Willy Schweizer - not so much!  Engaging, extremely knowledgeable, a communicator beyond compare... and frankly, an extremely gifted story teller.  

And now a few minutes with the Poet Laureate of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Willy Schweizer -

James Henderson - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Willy Schweizer - It was a non-branded manual-wind, made by the students of the watchmaking school of la Chaux-de-Fonds. It was a gift from my father for my 8th birthday.

JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be when you "grew up"?
WS - I had 2 dreams : aviation and car racing, which both came true, but not professionally : I am private pilot and I used to race in the Swiss and European rally championships.

JH - My understanding is that you almost didn't get involved in the watch industry? I believe that you studied something a bit removed from main-springs and tourbillons?

WS - Not exactly - I come from a family of watchmakers, but I am not a watchmaker myself, because when I had to choose a profession in the 1970’s, watchmaking was in crisis and within less than 10 years, the number of jobs fell from 150.000 to 30.000.  In this context, everybody was thinking that this trade would disappear sooner or later.  So I studied history at the University of Neuchâtel, with a special interest in local history and watchmaking.  When I graduated, I started at the Swissair aviation school, but after one year, they said my eyes were not good enough.  So, with the idea of entering into the watchmaking world, I sudied marketing in St-Gallen.

JH - After your studies, what was your first job in the working world?


WS - Marketing and sales at Zenith, for the Swiss market.

JH -  So from History, to the watch industry, to museum curator - was that at all how you planned it?

WS - Certainly not.  When I moved to Girard-Perregaux in 1984, the logo was already referring to 1791 (« fine watches since 1791 »), but nothing was done to enlighten the rich history of the brand, so I started to work on that immediately, and we opened a first Museum in 1991, the year of our bicentenary.


JH - What brought you to Girard-Perregaux originally?  What was your first job there?


WS - The opportunity to work on the international markets.  I was in charge of Germany, Britain and the Middle-East.

JH - Lately, it has been said that there are now essentially three "ages" of Girard-Perregaux: Pre- Gino Macaluso, Gino Macaluso, and Post-Gino Macaluso.
What was GP like in the time you were there before he arrived?


WS - It was a small company (60 people), producing nice watches, but watches which did not correspond to the demand : high end already, but with quartz movements.

JH - If you can put your finger on it, what was the one most important change that he made?


WS - Precisely that he changed completely the products, which were then exactly in line with the demand of the international markets.

JH - When did the idea come about to create the museums?


WS - The date of foundation of GP is 1791 and we have been constantly active since then, so the history is authentic.  When we started to think about the celebrations of the bicentenary, I thought it logical to show this history to the public, through watches we have been patiently collecting over the years.

JH - In the past year, your museum has gone on a world tour - what was that like?

WS - A very rich, but also scary experience : imagine that all the most precious watches of the Museum were on tour, without exception, and that anything could have happened. What is almost incredible is that we needed 15 tons of material to display them properly…

JH - What was your favorite "stop" during the world tour?


WS - With cities as different as Singapore, Shanghai, Paris or New-York, you cannot really put it this way.  Each time, the exhibition was much appreciated, with many visitors, but for reasons that were never the same.  I liked Shanghai quite a lot, but maybe because it was my first time there.

JH - What is a typical day in the life of Will Schweizer?


WS - I like to start early, like 07.30. First I read my emails and reply immediately to those which do not need a research. I am in charge of the factory tours, which start either at 09.00 or 14.00. the rest of the time is dedicated to meetings, preparation of texts or of exhibitions, research, monitoring of auctions or sales in order to complete the collections of the Museum. And there are the days when I travel.

JH - You have often said that if you wrote a book about Girard-Perregaux or La Chaux-de-Fonds, you would actually have to write 2 books. What do you mean by that?

WS - There is what is politically correct and there is the reality, which often do not superimpose exactly.  So, let us say that the first book would be as close as possible to the reality and the second would tell what happened exactly.

JH - So what is one story or event that the general public might not be aware of that would appear in the "second book"?


WS - It is a bit too early to unveil one.  Everybody knows that the shortest way between 2 points is the straight line, but very often things do not happen so ideally.

JH - What is your favorite Girard-Perregaux watch? And for Jean Richard?

Courtesy of JeanRichard

WS - The Tourbillon with three gold Bridges in its skeleton, selwinding version for GP and the Diverscope LPR for JR.

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?


WS - I don’t have a preference. For me, anybody making an innovative and interesting watch works in the right direction and deserves respect.

JH - What is the Swiss watch industry doing right?

WS - To keep on working like above. That is what our public expects from us.


JH - Where can the Swiss watch industry improve?


WS - Maybe less opportunism and more morality. I was shocked when I heard that Switzerland exported watches to Syria last May, for a value of 8 million of Swiss Francs.

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?


WS - Good question ! I promise i’ll start to think about it : after all, in theory, I shall be retired in less than 9 years…


JH - What advice do you have for aspiring horological historians and curators?


WS - No doubt that the interest for watchmaking has been tremendously growing these last 20 years, in every respect, and history is part of it.  Not every brand has a history like GP.  However, quite a number of brands have the legitimacy to tell stories : Look at JeanRichard, whose history is incomplete, but where I created a museum of watchmaking machines and tools which is unique in the world.  A Museum will never be a profit center, but can be a tremendous communication tool : all brands which are concerned should consider it under this angle.  So there is still a lot of work and space for all those who have ideas.