Carl F. Bucherer Is Dead. Or So Some Would Say

And Chronoswiss has one fewer neighbor in Lucerne...

News reached the soon-to-be covered in snow North Shore headquarters of Henki Time that CFB - otherwise known as Carl F. Bucherer, is like Ole Yeller, about to be put out of its misery.

Sounds a bit harsh, doesn't it? In fairness, CFB writ large, and the folks left behind don't deserve the collective kick in the privates that they are all feeling now. But as is often the case in Watch Town, someone inevitably gets the fuzzy end of the lollipop, and more often than not? It's not the owners...

But as I reflect back, the CFB shot-caller's ability to collectively walk between the raindrops and continue to grind on and on without ever (apparently) producing a significant profit, is not singularly unique in Watch Town.

So what did we learn from the (un)timely demise of CFB? 

Truth? 

Nothing that many of us didn't already know.

For some of the earliest coverage of the disrobing of the Emperor, here is the coverage from Bilanz.

Where Evangelism Meets Retail - A Few Minutes with Jeff Hess

Believe it or not, all is not doom and gloom in "Watchville".

Courtesy of Jeffrey Hess

I started out late last year (yes, a week or so ago) wanting to do a story about Jeff Hess and what he has built not only with Old Northeast Jewelers but with three of the brands he has championed as a distributor in North America.  My reasoning behind this was that Jeff has frequently decided to adjust his sails in what might be considered a contrary manner to some.  He is not a "churn and burn" type of guy.  He has two PHYSICAL stores, he goes to BaselWorld every year, and if there is an equivalent in the watch business to that phrase in Ocean's 13 - "He shook Sinatra's hand", he would definitely be one of those people.

Jeff and I go back a wee bit, longer than some, and not nearly as long as others, and one of the things I truly appreciate about him is his refusal to simply take things at face value, and his willingness to consider alternative points of view.  Curious to relate, the more we got to talking about his experiences in the watch business, the more and more I got drawn into a deeper discussion about Grand Seiko.  So, gentle reader, a few minutes with Jeff Hess -

Tempus Fugit:

So what got you into the watch business in the first place?

Jeff Hess:
In a word - Vintage. I started collecting watches as a high-schooler, I even went so far as to enroll in watchmaking school. But I found out that I liked buying and selling vintage watches much more than I did watchmaking. One thing led to another... and here we are.

TF:

You've seen a lot of changes in the business, particularly in the retail sector - what has been the most positive?

JH:

In the long term it is the realization from the brands and the manufacturers, that the USA is completely different animal in the world of marketing than every other world market. There is a new awakening on this issue especially with brands like Breitling who, in my opinion, "get it" and proceed accordingly. Mr. Kern has it figured out. On a more immediate level it is the idea that smart watches have actually saved the Luxury business. Our business has thrived on Boomers and Gen X-ers. But now we see successful Millennials in their mid to late 30's graduating to luxury in huge numbers. From wearing nothing on their wrist, to smart watches and then maturing to luxury watches. We''ve even noticed Generation Z's are now having an interest.  I also want to give a nod to smaller brands and micro-brands who are leading the 21st century renaissance in collector/ design interest.

TF:

And the most negative?

JH:

It would likely be the age-old practice of "over production" from the big manufacturers. Overproduction is not new. It has been going on since the 1880's when Waltham "dumped their dogs" on the English market in Birmingham when too much stuff piled up. The big manufactures have not figured out a way of dealing with this. It puts great stress on retailers, distributors and on the manufacturers bottom lines. And it sends a confusing message to the end-user/buyers.

TF:

In our conversations leading up to this interview, it became more and more apparent that Grand Seiko holds a special spot in your heart not only as a retail partner, but as a watch enthusiast.  At times I thought I'd accidentally walked into a revival meeting, you are quite the evangelist!  What is it about Grand Seiko that attracts you as an enthusiast?

JH:
Great question! I am a watch guy. Perhaps a ten percent fashion guy, but absolutely a 90% watch guy. As mentioned, I got my start in vintage back in the 80's when acquiring that proverbial old "box of watches" from an estate. It seemed the only ones that ran upon picking them up after years of neglect and abuse would be the Rolexes, The Seiko's and the Breitlings. Shake them and they ran, no matter how weather beaten. 

Courtesy of Jeff Hess

When one of the watch magazine publishers brought Grand Seiko to my store in 2010 (yes we were one of the first three retail stores to take on the brand in the US) asking us to carry an 8000 dollar Seiko, well... let's just say I got a little push back from my wife, my staff and just about everyone else. "An 8000 dollar Seiko? Absurd!" was probably the most often heard type of comment. But I brought my wife around and we brought Grand Seiko in. It was not easy but the design and the quality was over-the- top insane. As a vintage guy I remembered the lion medallion series and the old Diashock Chronometers. And honestly?  While I knew that converting our Swiss and German watch aficionado clientele would not be easy, I knew it was doable. I am an equal opportunity watch guy. The Swiss in many ways "own" this space. But I felt there was ample room for the Germans and the Japanese in the luxury space as well. 

Courtesy of Old Northeast Jewelers

Our little store was visited by the head of Seiko Japan in 2012 and he promised great things to come. And we stuck with it. I was surprised at the push back from some of the bigger Swiss brands I carried. Some of them were insistent that I not put Grand Seiko in my larger store. But I eased them in anyway. Needless to say, it has been a terrific partnership. The Japanese have a decidedly different way of dealing with authorized retailers. It is a cool brand with a cool factor that has an "outsider" appeal to collectors. And Grand Seiko collectors are truly "rabid". Akin to Patek and Rolex collectors but in many instances a younger demographic. Once and still small and streamlined, now also bold and beautiful. (Some at 44mm! )But all the Grand Seiko styles are held together by one constant - accuracy.

TF:

Retail, as we both know, is a different proposition than many watch fans think it is.  You have to seek out the new and exciting, but you have to balance that with the reality of customer appeal, reliability of the brand to deliver in a timely manner, and the overall dependability of the watch itself.  How does Grand Seiko compare to the other brands in their price category?

JH:
As I mentioned, the demographic is a bit different with Grand Seiko. 

Courtesy of Old Northeast

It seems to occupy a comfortable space between the handsome rugged flyer/adventurist/ Breitling owner and the ever-gentlemanly Patek owner. The old "watch cliche" of "looks as good with jeans and a t-shirt as it does with at a black tie event" is apropos. One might argue that the Godzilla model might not work with suit. 

Courtesy of Old Northeast

But I'd do it! In short, maybe not as rugged as a Breilting, but as attractive as a Blancpain.

TF:

You are one of the most well-known and sought-after retailers in the US.  You have the ability to pick and choose what you want to carry.  What was it about Grand Seiko that caught your eye?

JH:

It's a simple answer with several components - It's different, its accuracy is beyond reproach, and the design is unique.  And probably, most importantly is its history. 

Courtesy of Old Northeast

Just about every brand we carry has a story. From Carl F Bucherer's early coziness with Rolex, to the fine enamel and robust military watches that Ulysse Nardin for the US Army Corps of Engineers, Heuer's patented oscillating pinion and Hamiton's American heritage... all of my store's brands have "historical aspects"that appeal to me.

You've Changed Man! It Used to be About the Watches!

Stop the press!  A handful of famous actors wore Carl F. Bucherer watches at a Hollywood premier and there's a REAL picture with REAL Hollywood stars posing with a a REAL Swiss watch brand CEO...

Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer

Now in the interest of transparency - I really, really enjoyed the first John Wick movie.  It was clever, well imagined, and full of action packed scenes.  I also confess that I find the star, Keanu Reeves a particularly fascinating person.  His project to make motorcycles for example?
www.archmotorcycle.com

Super-duper cool!

Having said that...

Carl F. Bucherer is a watch brand.  Or at least this is what I have been led to understand.  I know that it is a fun and heady experience to rub shoulders with famous people.  I also know that there is an unwavering belief in some corners of marketing departments of Switzerland that if you are a sponsor in a movie and get your watches on the star then the cash registers will magically start to ring.

Nope.

Partnerships are more often than not based more on what the CEO or the head of PR or marketing finds interesting and exciting.  The reason why some sponsorships seem like odd mixes between a brand and a celebrity/team/event?  It's invariably because the shot-caller for the brand was enamored with that particular celebrity/team/event.

Let's hope that I am wrong about this one.  I really liked the first John Wick movie.  And no, I'm not running out to buy a Bucherer watch based on that.  Now if Keanu Reeves became a spokesperson / celebrity ambassador and they targeted a charity to benefit?  Yeah, then I'd be interested ; )

Carl F. Bucherer's Patravi TravelTec FourX

The new Patravi TravelTec FourX is Carl F. Bucherer's latest offering.

Incorporating Titanium, ceramic, rubber, and in rose gold.  Three timezones help you not only know where you are, but where you're going, and where you've been.  The chronograph is an added, and useful function ensuring that this is far more than a travel watch, but one well-suited to life's every day adventures.

Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer

Here are the details -

Reference number: 00.10620.22.93.01

Movement: automatic, CFB 1901.1 caliber, chronometer, diameter 28.6 mm, height 7.3 mm, 39 jewels, power reserve 42 hours


Functions: chronograph, three time zones, date, hours, minutes, small seconds


Case: 18 K rose gold (in the rose gold version), ceramic bezel, skeletonized dial, screwdown crown and rubber pusher, titanium monopusher, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 46.6 mm, height 15.5 mm

Strap: rubber strap, 18 K rose gold folding clasp



Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer

This is also available in palladium:  00.10620.21.93.01: 950
A palladium case, titanium folding clasp
 

Stealth - at night

Courtesy of Hanhart

The nice folks at Hanhart sent this to me.  This is a "night" shot of their new 

PIONEER Stealth 1882 Limited Edition

Needless to say, I still want one!

Hanhart - the official timer of Thanksgiving!

Okay, first and foremost, apologies for the poor quality of the photos.  As you know, this past Thursday was Thanksgiving here in the US, and as I have learned the hard way once or twice, you need to be prepared to time things correctly.

So the Pioneer MkI was drafted into service.  But as I have often heard, you need to have back-up, and to this end my trusty Hanhart 30 minute timer was pressed into service as well.

And for those of you who are more culinarily inclined, I learned a new technique for roasting the turkey. In fairness, credit has to go to Jamie Oliver's Rosemary chicken recipe.  In the past, I had always cut up either lemons or limes into quarter sections, and stuffed the turkey with them.  However, thanks to Mr. Oliver's collaborative instruction, I tried his technique -
Boil three or four lemons (depending upon the size of the bird) in a pot of salted water for about 3 - 5 minutes.  Take out the lemons, and while they are still hot, put holes in them with a fork.  Then stuff them into the main cavity of the turkey.  The result is that the lemon juice slowly steams out the the lemons and ensures a nice, moist turkey, and a very faint lemon essence.

Catching up with Hanhart and Thomas Morf

It has now been six months or so since Thomas Morf took the reigns at Hanhart. I had a chance to catch up with him recently and get his take on the first half-year.

James Henderson - When you came in, what were some of your immediate challenges?

Thomas Morf - Perhaps the biggest immediate challenge has been to reconfirm /reestablishing Hanhart's presence and stature. Hanhart is such a unique product, so much history - and as you know - there is a very tangible connection to stop watches.

JH - Your first BaselWorld is now "in the books". How did it go for you and your team?


TM - Really, really well. There was, and continues to be a great deal of interest - but ultimately an overseas partner is, in many ways, the care-giver, or nanny of the brand and to this end they have to be a perfect (or as near perfect) a match as possible. So we are taking our time, not rushing into anything. I have taken care to bring my team together, and we all share the same interest in seeing the success of Hanhart.

JH - It's interesting to hear you say this, because I hear a lot of brands and companies make these statements, but they do not always stand behind them with the pressure to sell and open markets.


TM - That's the thing, you have to understand who you are as a brand. It is not to say that a potential partner is bad.  But it is important to understand that sometimes even a partner that seems good is not necessarily the right partner. So we are looking for the right type of partnerships - Hanhart is not a "champagne" brand, but rather a "whiskey on the rocks" type of brand. So it is important to nurture our position, to be who we are. Hanhart is a brand that resonates with a lot of people. So we are patient. A lot of brands in a lot of industries sometimes go a bit crazy trying to build their brand, without paying attention to the actual identity of the product that makes the brand special or unique.



JH - I find it interesting that you are sticking to chronographs and stop watches, not throwing out dozens of different types of watches to try and please everyone.

TM - Again - this speaks to authenticity. We are Hanhart. We are not an average watch company. We make watches and stop watches. This is who we are.

ANTOINE MARTIN - Martin Braun is back!

I think that this one would fall into the category of good things happening to good people - 


Martin Braun is back!

Here is the news, straight from ANTOINE MARTIN -


A watchmaker of exceptional talent, Martin Braun founded his company MHO AG (Manufacture Horlogère Obwalden) in 2009 with the declared aim of realizing his idea for his own watch movement, featuring the Swiss club-tooth lever escapement he had developed himself. After almost two years of intensive work, the first ANTOINE MARTIN movement developed and manufactured entirely in the company’s workshops is ready. It is a fascinating hand-wound movement with an integrated perpetual calendar, large date display and six-day power reserve.

Courtesy of ANTOINE MARTIN

Development of the second movement, an automatic, will be completed by mid-year. Both movements, featuring unprecedented technical innovations, are absolute highlights in watch design and are available exclusively to the new brand, ANTOINE MARTIN.

AN INDUSTRY EXPERT AS CEO

Courtesy of ANTOINE MARTIN

The man appointed to manage the brand is CEO Bruno Jufer, who has enormous experience of the watch industry. He has previously held positions with Maurice Lacroix, Jaquet Droz, Zenith and, most recently, as a member of executive management with Carl F. Bucherer. The new ANTOINE MARTIN watch collection was born under Bruno Jufer’s management. “Our watches are a distillation of all our expertise, our desire to create something totally unusual, and our passion for exquisite design, technology and top-quality materials,” he explains. The brand and its first watch collection will be presented to the industry and the general public at Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewellery fair.



A CLEAR VISION

According to Bruno Jufer, the brand has a clear vision. “We aim to establish ANTOINE MARTIN as a luxury watch manufacturer of worldwide renown. The brand will be a benchmark for innovative technology in movement construction and stand for unique watch design.” Master watchmaker Martin Braun and entrepreneur Antoine Meier jointly founded the manufacture and provided its name. The combination ANTOINE MARTIN has a pleasing ring and has a similar pronunciation in all the world’s major languages.

The decision not to resurrect and relaunch an existing brand name was a conscious one. “What we’re doing now is making use of all the expertise we’ve amassed in the past and gearing it entirely towards the future.  We aren’t drawing on a tradition established by long-gone founders: our developers and master watchmakers all live in the present and are under no obligation whatsoever to follow predefined routes.  Our independence as regards technology and design is reflected in our current and future products,” says Antoine Meier.

The upcoming world premiere at the Basel Watch and Jewellery Fair.

I will be there!


www.antoinemartin.ch

A Few Minutes with Thomas Morf

And now, a Few Minutes with Thomas Morf -

James:  What was your first watch, was it a gift?  Is there a story behind it?

Thomas Morf:  My first watch was a gift from my godmother. It was a 3 hand, hand wound Uranus watch with a  purple dial and leather strap.


JH:  When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

TM:  I always wanted to be surrounded by cars. Cars had something magic, the designs, the  technologies, the performance. So it was clear, that it had to be something with cars.


JH:  Where did you go to school?

TM:  All of my education has been in Switzerland, from primary to secondary school, the school of commerce and my degree in business administration.

JH:  So as your first love was the automobile, what got you into the watch business in the first place? 

TM:  Switzerland does not really have an automotive industry like other countries, 
but we have something similar - the watch industry.  I always had a great passion for watches too.  Especially those watches which were linked to aviation or motor sports. So it became of hobby of mine and I decided to move into the business in 1993.  Watches and cars have always had strong ties to each other.


JH:  So as a lover of cars, what is your "daily driver"?

TM:  My daily driver is a Mercedes E-Class Station Wagon, comfortable yet sporty.


JH:  What was your first job in the watch industry?

TM:  I was a sales & marketing manager with a very little watch brand.


JH:  Of all the watches you have been involved with, what is your "baby"?  What is the one that you feel the strongest attachment to?  Why?

TM:  Those that I like the most are the watches that have something "Thomas Morf"  within them. The company I was with before had some models containing that element. For me, it’s often all about the technology. I’m a tech freak. I just can’t deny that.


JH:  Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

TM:  For me it’s not necessarily a particular brand that interests me, but it is something more that I like from a design and technical point of view. Who the brand is doesn’t really play as important a role for me.  I’d rather have something special on my wrist rather than something that every Tom, Dick or Harry is wearing.


JH:  If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

TM:  This is something I keep on asking myself all the time. What I definitely know is this - it’s got to be something with passion, something that touches my soul. The music and the automotive industry would fit into this category.


JH:  What is a typical "day in the life" of Thomas Morf?

TM:  A typical Thomas Morf day is not something very spectacular. I get up in the morning, take a shower, eat breakfast, drive to work, work the whole day long, then drive back home, maybe play some sports, get together with friends, talk about god and the whole world!


JH:  What do you like to do in your down-time? 

TM:  I love reading, listening to music,  and going to concerts.  Talking about cars with my buddies, and playing sports.  And of course I like a nice dinner with a fine wine with my crowd of friends.

JH:  So from Carl F. Bucherer to Hanhart and now a part owner of Hanhart - that is quite a jump!  What are some of the greatest challenges that you see?

TM:  Hanhart is a fantastic challenge.  There is a need to spend our money wisely, to get the most mileage for the dollar. The development of new products, marketing in a smart way, without wasting money, and overall the qualitative and quantitative growth of our global presence.  These are the 

real challenges in the months and years to come.  And all of our efforts are directed with one goal in mind - “Desirability is more important than awareness”.

JH:  Obviously these are two very different companies.  What is it in Hanhart that attracted you?

TM:  Hanhart is a watch brand, that has a fantastic and uninterrupted history. Hanhart has always covered the elements so to speak - air, land, and sea. We’re talking about fantastic Pilot’s watches, Race/Driver's watches and Marine watches!  This is something no other brand can offer. I always liked Hanhart, because of their expertise and know-how. It’s a brand that men seem to like and even adore. Steve McQueen, for instance, was big Hanhart fan.

JH:  You had been with Carl F. Bucherer for quite a few years and suddenly not.  Any regrets?

TM:  You know life moves on, It was a great experience during the last 10 years, but with Hanhart and my partial ownership of the company a new chapter in my life has begun.  A guy once told me the reason why a windshield is bigger than the rear view mirrors of a car. Because one needs to look forward and not backward.

JH:  Frank Lloyd Wright had a similar saying - he had removed the rear screen / glass from his car and asked why he said - "I never look back".

JH:  Hanhart is now sponsoring the Berne ice hockey team.  How did that come about?

TM:  Hanhart stands for performance, achievement and success and above all, it is made for real men. The Swiss ice hockey champions, Berne, liked Hanhart’s brand values. It’s a perfect match - Hanhart paired with a very strong hockey team. 

JH:  Where do you see Hanhart expanding?  Which countries do you think have the most opportunity for you?

TM:  I see Hanhart expanding in various markets around the world, especially where people like these kinds of highly functional instrument watches.  Highly functional, yet very sexy. Markets that have an appreciation for the history and origin of a brand like Hanhart.

JH:  So what advice do you have for the next generation of watch entrepreneur/CEOs?

TM:  Have a vision for the brand, have passion for the industry, be humble and patient, nothing is going to change overnight!   Always be a fair partner - to both your employees and your business partners.


Visit Hanhart at:  www.hanhart.com

And please visit the Berne Ice Hockey team at:

www.scb.ch