Seeing Red with The Chinese Timekeeper

This is one of the latest developments from the Chinese Timekeeper - a new look with RED accents!

More details to follow, but this was literally lighting up the Palace Hall when it arrived!

As I said, more to come so stay tuned!

What's That Sound? What If - Update Number 11!

Why, that sound is the sound of momentum!

GoS Watches and our first retail store - Catherine Jones of Cambridge!

Thank You!!!

So let's see:

Girard Perregaux, JEANRICHARD, A. Manzoni & Fils, Kobold, Aquadive, ISOfrane, Xetum, Jardur, Gavox, the Oberlin Pen Company, SAVOY, Ressence, Marvin, the Chinese Timekeeper, Tigerlily Skye, GoS Watches and Catherine Jones of Cambridge!

For those of you keeping score at home - that is 17! We are nearly 20% there! C'mon!

What if?

Dear watch companies,

What if?

What if each one of you could take even $5,000 from your annual budgets and donate it to a common cause?  What if the mighty SWATCH, Richemont, LVMH, ROLEX, Sowind, Audemars Piguet, Patek Phillipe, Ulysse Nardin… what if you all came together with a reasonable contribution with the sole goal of trying to fix an "unfixable" problem?

What if 100 watch companies in the world each contributed $5,000 - or more - to fund rangers to protect elephants and rhinos from poachers?  What if based on that, we could then go to people with even more money?  What if your KINDNESS and willingness to do something that was totally selfless then triggered people like Phil Knight of Nike, or Oprah Winfrey, or Bill Gates - I mean, let's aim high here!  What if that all got so much money - and so much attention, that it would be better financially for a father to become a ranger, rather than to become a poacher?  

And what if that action, created a groundswell in China and Vietnam to help people understand that maybe, just maybe the preservation of a species is more valuable than a dubious aphrodisiac?

So, let's name some names - Biver, Hayek, Hoffmann, Sofisti (THANK YOU!), Stern, Marini, Raffi, Stas and all the rest of you -

Are you really interested in doing something great - or is it just talk and PR?  

What am I asking for?  $5,000 if you have it - for some of you big brands, that is WAY less than you spend on a month of advertising.  And as the saying goes, if you can't afford $5,000, give what you can!

Do you really want to make a mark in the world and not just talk about it?  Here is a chance to do it!

Who is in?

The Tipping Point

So it was a very interesting day for me today.  I went for a ride on my bici.  The same ride that I take every Saturday (and if I'm lucky) Sunday.  Today I took a right turn where I normally go straight.  And I found myself on this long, steady, beautiful climb.  It went up, and up, and up.  Slowly, steadily I kept   pedaling.  And cheezy as it sounds, for a moment I was somewhere else.  And as often is the case, I got to thinking about watches and how so often both watch brands and us (the people who follow them) we don't take that right turn.  

So tonight I wanted to share some people that I think are taking that right turn, taking us to that unexpected place.  A watch is, ultimately, just a mechanism.  And for better or worse, the world does not NEED any more watches - and to talk to some of the people manning fairly important and senior positions at some of the biggest, most "exclusive" brands, I am often left with the feeling that they might as well be working for a toothpaste company.  There is no spark, there is no passion.  They are virtually inanimate objects.   

So who is passionate?  

Martin Braun for one.  Here is someone who got the "fuzzy end of the lollipop" when his brand became a part of the Franck Mueller group.  It would have been easy for him to wait for another bigger brand to come in, but he had a vision.  And today he is seeing the results of that passion and vision.  Antoine Martin has steadily developed into something special.

Another Martin - Martin Pauli.  I think what I love about Angular Momentum/Manu Propria is that Martin came into the watch world not necessarily by "design", but rather THROUGH design.  These days he has a following of devoted collectors that truly spans the globe.  He is not someone who seeks the spotlight, but rather lets the beautiful designs on his watch dials do the talking.  He could take the easy approach and have someone else simply stamp his dials - but this is a fellow interested in (and practicing) numerous artistic disciplines, and that passion shows through in what he is doing.

Adrien Choux.  The owner of the Chinese Timekeeper although born in France, chose to make his life in Asia - most specifically in Hong Kong.  Consider that this is someone who was steadily climbing the Richemont career ladder with Panerai.  someone holding onto the "golden ticket"... decides to go his own way, to take that right turn and to launch his version of a luxury Chinese watch.  

Patrik Sjögren.  Computer scientist/engineer turned watch maker.  Again - it would have been so easy to carry on with what he was doing.  But there was something more driving him towards the decision to become a watch maker.  And then it went further - to produce his own watches.  And not just any watches.  GoS watches are quickly gaining a very strong following for people attracted not just to the unique cases, but the beautifully finished dials.

So the next time you're going out watch shopping, instead of heading straight to the "usual suspects", take a right turn and check out something unique.  Yes, it is a watch - a micro machine.  But it is something that was conceived, designed and made by a person.  And really, it should be about people.

Layers of History - 15 Days with The Chinese Timekeeper continues

On the surface of things, the Chinese Timekeeper is a cool looking watch, uniquely designed, striking appearance, blah, blah, blah. It would be easy to take such a simplistic view. In fact, the CTK is, in many ways, a wearable history of Su Song's quest to measure time.  

Apologies for the smudges on the picture - but yes, this watch is being worn!  You will notice that instead of simply stamping, or even lathing a case, the Chinese Timekeeper opted to construct a case of layers - four pieces visible from the outside with one "inner" ring visible when looking at the watch's face .  This design aspect is in tribute to the clock tower that Su Song constructed in the ancient city of Kaifeng, China.

Courtesy of the Chinese Timekeeper

The clock tower was housed in a five-story pagoda, and as you can see with this image kindly lent by CTK, the imagery is clear.

The diameter is a robust 44 mm.  Now it must be said that the creative mind behind The Chinese Timekeeper cut his "horological teeth" with the Richemont Group - most specifically Panerai.

Courtesy of the Chinese Timekeeper

Adrien Choux founded the Chinese Timekeeper with the intention of creating a truly 100% Chinese brand with a limited production.  For many people out there, Chinese-Luxury may seem like an oxymoron.  But it's just that type of provincial, limited thinking that Adrien Choux and his team are challenging.

Consider this - it would be far too easy to try ad fashion a "Chinese Panerai".  The world is awash with "Homage" or "Tribute" (read lazy/cheap reproduction) "Panerai-esque" watches.  The Chinese Timekeeper does not take the easy way out with their design.  They challenge you with some truly original design aspects.

They could have simply gone to a watch factory, bought one or two piece cases, and simply focused on a "Chinese" style dial.  But that was not the intention.  Which brings  me back to the four piece case...

topped off with four screws securing the bezel, and 44 mm in diameter.  There is a nice symmetry to it.  With so many "homage" pieces out there to Panerai, it is quite refreshing to see a watch that is different!

Courtesy of the Chinese Timekeeper

And while we're on "the face of things" I have to say that two other design elements have impressed me - the hands and the character "shi" replacing the number 10 on the dial.

I love the detail of the hands - not to skinny and not too chubby!  The pattern lends just the right balance of depth to the watch as a whole.

And the symbol "shi" meaning (among other things) perfect.  

And a quick update about timekeeping - we are holding at +6 seconds per day.

More to come - stay tuned!

The Chinese Timekeeper's Armillary Sphere

So we're now officially one week in, and it's safe to say that the Chinese Timekeeper CTK08 is one of the most comfortable watches I've worn in some time. You may recall that yesterday I was waxing lyrical about the deployment buckle - which is FANTASTIC - not only in design but in function as well.

The design of the buckle is not accidental - here is the scoop directly from the Chinese Timekeeper:

To better understand the heavens, Chinese astronomers used a tool known as an armillary sphere. The construction of an armillary sphere, or celestial sphere, consists of a series of nestled rings, also named Circles of Heaven that rotate on a single axis around the Earth. The signature CTK buckle is inspired by the amillary sphere, its unique design representing one of the legendary Circles of Heaven.

But the clasp goes beyond the ornamental - as I said, it is very functional and comfortable to wear.

Another nice touch is the application of PVD to all of the deployment clasp - not just the "buckle" portion.  Full marks to CTK for attention to detail!

And the use of a subtle, but tactile deployment button (or in this case, buttons) is a fantastic design choice.  It makes the clasp supremely easy to operate, and although the buttons are accessible, they are not too large.

Shirt, sweater and jacket sleeves need not fear for their well-being any longer!

The Chinese Time Keeper - holding things together

Details - they say that is where the Devil keeps his residence!  Well, I usually don't think about things like straps or claps until the end of the review period, but in fact the clasp for the Chinese Timekeeper is one of the most unique, and secure that I've tested in some time.  It's shape is compelling - a circle with "The Chinese Timekeeper" engraved on it.  But more than looking good, it is perhaps one of the best functioning that I've seen in some time. The mechanism works flawlessly with two small (but tactile) push buttons on either side.  A very reassuring soft "click" is heard when the clasp is secured.

This is a brief post as there is a second, more detailed post on the buckle and it's deployment feature later this evening.

Oh - and through the first 6 days, timing is holding steady at + 6 seconds per day.

Stay tuned!

15 Days with The Chinese Timekeeper

And we are off on another 15 day adventure!  This is the Chinese Timekeeper's CTK08.

Day one, and already it looks like it is going to be a fantastic two weeks!

Stay tuned!

The Chinese Timekeeper

I just learned about this new endeavor from The Chinese Timekeeper -

Courtesy of The Chinese Timekeeper

There will be more to come - stay tuned!