Upcoming interview

I wanted to give a heads'-up that I have a very, very interesting interview that will be running next week.

I want to be very clear that this is one of those rare situations where I set out to do the interview thinking it would go in a certain direction, and then it took a wonderful turn that I did not see coming.  The format will be different, a bit more like a report/feature.

I will give you a hint, he is someone quite well known in the world of diving.

In honor of the Royal wedding...

With the big day in London, if felt appropriate for a few brands flying the flag of Britain -

Courtesy of Graham

Courtesy of Graham

Courtesy of Bremont

Courtesy of Graham

Hanhart Tachymaster 30

As previously mentioned here - I am a stop-watch nut!  LOVE THEM!  Luckily for me, Hanhart keeps making them!

Courtesy of Hanhart

What I really like about Hanhart's approach is that they continually bring out new things, without
forgetting about their past.

Here are the details in Hanhart's own words -

Movement: Mechanical manufacture movement; anchor escapement; 9 jewelsFunctions: Time-traverse counter for speeds of 30 km/h, drag indicatorCase: Chrome-plated brass, polished; rotating bezel with red marking; 
red convenience button; diameter 55 mm; splash proofDial: Beige 






www.hanhart.com

Urwerk

A little late night eye-candy -

More to come on Urwerk, I promise...

Stay tuned!

A few minutes with Benoît Mintiens

One of the most talked about people at BaselWorld this year was the creator of the Ressence watch.

So now, a few minutes with Benoît Mintiens -

James Henderson - What was your first watch, was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Benoît Mintiens - My first watch that i can remember was probably a transparent Swatch.  It worked for 6 months I think.  I found it very fun to see the components... but my first love was the Bulova Accutron Space view.  It is such a beautiful concept to give time with a wavelength!

JH - When you were a boy, what did you want to be "when you grew up"?

MB - It was only at the age of 18 that I discovered that design was a profession.  Before that I thought of being an engineer or something.  As a kid I used to design things all the time and build them, being an industrial designer was the perfect solution to translate my hobby into a profession.

JH - Where did you go to school, what did you study?

BM - I have a Master degree in Industrial design and a Master in Business administration.  ( 7 years in total... )

JH -  When people think of Belgium, watch making is maybe not the first profession that comes to mind.  How did you get started in the watch industry?

BM - This is a very long story.  I had always been attracted to new watch concepts but was realistic enough not to love them to much. The Ressence project started with a friend who asked me to design a watch with lots of diamonds - but for men.  While working on the project and after TAG Heuer launched their Diamond fiction watch, my friend left for Hong Kong and I was left bitten by the watch virus.  So, I decided to design a watch for me.

JH -  Did you ever consider doing something else for a living?

BM - My job ( the one that pays the bills at the end of the month ) is as a consultant in industrial design.  My work for Ressence is for serious fun!

JH - You've now been at it for awhile.  How is the Ressence brand evolving?

BM - Ressence is a niche product for people that can appreciate the values I have tried to put into the product.  For the moment people are buying a watch concept, to some extent, Ressence is only a name.  The brand will have to build from that.  As this needs huge marketing resources, this will take time.

For the moment my priority is to develop new models.  

JH - Thinking back to the start, were there ever nights where you woke up in a cold sweat, wondering if things would work out?

BM - I still have sleepless nights.  I think it is normal ( I hope )! 

My biggest concern being the difficulty to produce the parts.  

I don't know why but it is very hard to get your parts in time.

And as I'm only starting, I need to go through a learning curve with every step.

JH - What are some of the biggest challenges you have faced?

BM - The biggest challenge was to create a network of suppliers.

Not being Swiss, not being a watchmaker and not living is Switzerland, I can tell you it is not easy to start for the simple reason that I did not know where the start was...

JH - Having spent a little time by your booth at BaselWorld it seemed as if your watch was one of the hottest things this year - what do you attribute the Ressence's popularity to?

BM - I can not judge because I did not move from my booth.

When I listen to the reactions from people that pass by, they 

usually stop for the unconventional design.  They found it 

attractive and start looking closer. At that point they think the 

watches are fakes/dummies.  In fact they are working models!

I often hear: Oh, the display is printed on the (plexi) glass?  

The ones that know a lot more than me about watches say -

"oh, yeah, I see it's a regulateur but different"...

When they see that the screen they saw, is animated they usually smile.

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

BM - I'm too much of a Belgian to give names ;-) 

JH - If you weren't doing this, what do you think you might be doing?

BM - Running a design company

JH - What is a typical "day in the life" of Benoit Mintiens?

BM - Are you sure you want to know this?

Get up, get my kids cleaned up, bring them to school, and 
go to work.  As a designer I work within a European agency.

I often work for French clients like SNCF, Veolia, RATP.   

But I also do some work for Browning,  Frisk, Thalys,
Siemens, Bombardier, etc... 

A project usually starts with the question why, for who and how.

For example, for the moment we are designing the new tram for Basel.   ( yes, in Switzerland )

Depending on the project you need to focus on different aspects.

If you're asked to design a new TGV for SNCF, you first have to think:

How do people what to experience a high speed journey?  
What does it mean to be French in a European high speed market?
Who are the travelers, what do they need? 

What is their mindset in the morning and in the evening? etc... 

JH -  What do you like to do in your spare time?

BM - For the moment my spare time is reduced to zero because 
of my double activity.  But when it is good weather I like is to drive
my old-timers. ( after years of working on them... )

JH - What was the inspiration for the Ressence?

BM - This is impossible to say.  Why does anyone have an idea?

One day I just had it (the idea).  What can I say, the guy that can 'generate' idea generation is called God I think?   No?  Essentially, creativity is 5% inspiration and 95% labor.

JH - What advice do you have for the future Benoit Mintiens out there?

BM - I understand this question as "what advice would you give to yourself?"

In the short term, try to stabilize my activities and balance it better.

In the longer term, transform Ressence into a brand.






www.ressence.eu

What watch would De Gaulle wear?

Courtesy of LIP

Well, in this instance I can answer pretty forthrightly that it was a LIP. 
Every time I see this watch I am reminded of the film - 
Day of the Jackal, and can picture all of those great old Citroens, 
and imagine a beautiful day in Paris.

This is a modern reinterpretation of the LIP watch of that era. At that time, 
electronic watches were all the rage, but as this is a modern version, 
a reliable quartz movement keep it moving forward.

I had the good fortune of meeting with the LIP folks at their booth at 
BaselWorld and suspect that it won't be long before the next French 
legend is wearing a LIP watch.


And you can purchase directly!
www.lip.fr/en

Ladoire at the 20th annual "Tour Auto" vintage race

Courtesy of Ladoire

Courtesy of Ladoire

Courtesy of Ladoire

4N

This is something new that I saw at BaselWorld - the 4N

Courtesy of 4N

Here are the specs:

Jumping minutes and hours

Digital display by discs

Double barrel with simultaneous transmission stop-work

Screw balance: 9.12 mm

Breguet spiral

Rhytym: 21 00 Vibration/hr

520 components

86 rubies

237-hour power reserve

Finish: all parts are hand-decorated

Courtesy of 4N

François Quentin founded the 4N watch brand in 2009.
As a freelance designer since 1986, he has helped design many contemporary 

models for French and Swiss watch brands. In 2004 he co-founded the 

HAUTLENCE watchmaking brand for the HL models and co-designed the 

Louis Vuitton flag-ship model, the Tambour. 

Now 47, François Quentin has gradually added a variety of skills to his portfolio. 

Crazy about mechanics and computer science, he works in business sectors 

demanding both wide-ranging as well as specialized abilities.

www.4-n.fr

Easter egg hunt

Happy Easter -

SWATCH, ETA and the Hayeks in the New York Times

The below referenced article appeared in the New York Times.
For the international readers out there, the Times is considered
THE newspaper of record here in the US.

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/23/business/global/23swatch.html?_r=1&emc=eta1


Needless to say, this is a situation that is not going to resolve itself in the very near future.

We shall see...

Ellicott's Majesty Chronograph

Courtesy of Ellicott

One of the more enjoyable meetings that I had at BaselWorld was with Pierre-Andre Finazzi, the President and CEO of Ellicott.  To see what he and his team have put together in a very short time is quite impressive!

Among the fruits of those labors is the Majesty Chronograph for men.

Courtesy of Ellicott

I am very eager to see what is coming next from Ellicott's home in La Chaux-de-Fonds!

www.ellicott.ch

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 BLUE CHRONOGRAPH

Courtesy of Girard-Perregaux

220 years in the making!

This is GP's 1966 Chronograph reinterpreted in blue.  40 mm of white gold
encompass this beautifully executed column wheel chronograph.

Here are the specs from Girard-Perregaux -


White gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Crystal: antireflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire
Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux GP030C0
Mechanical, automatic winding
Calibre: 10 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 38
Power reserve: 36 hours minimum
Functions: hours, minutes, small second, column
wheel chronograph, tachymeter scale

Black alligator strap
Buckle: white gold ardillon

www.girard-perregaux.com

Timekeeper Chronometrie Germany GmbH

Here is another "savior" of vintage movements -

Timekeeper Chronometrie in Germany in their own words:

Timekeeper Chronometrie stands for reunion of historical movements with high quality cases, which are finished in highest grade by modern production-methods.

Some unique details make every Timekeeper Chronometrie watch become a real collectors-piece. Only the best and sometimes refined movements are "reborn" as a limited or unique watch. The interplay of old watchmakers-art and modern production-methods allow the development of those fantastic watches.

This is the  TIMEKEEPER - Minute Repeater 18k Gold

It is a special development per a client request.
The TIMEKEEPER holds a a perfect, historical LeCoultre movement from 1915.  Its complication includes a minute repeater, striking with 2 hammers.  The movement has a Breguet spring , blued screwed balance and fine adjustment.  The repeater functions by using the slider.  Cote de Geneva decoration.  An antique piece of watchmaker's art, reborn in a highest quality 44mm, 18k gold case.

Plenty more to come from Timekeeper Chronometrie!

www.timekeeper.de/en/startpage/

Airman 18

This is the Glycine Airman 18 - at 38 mm a slightly smaller interpretation of the classic Airman

Courtesy of Glycine

I had the chance to speak with Stephan Lack who will be taking the helm of
Glycine in the coming months.  A very interesting fellow, and I will be anxious
to see where he leads Glycine.




Courtesy of Glycine

www.glycine.ch

A FANTASTIC interview with Thomas Morf from Europa Star

Okay, all credit goes to Europa Star - please read their FANTASTIC interview with Thomas Morf discussing all things Hanhart!

http://www.europastar.com/magazine/highlights/1004083589-hanhart-stays-true-to-its-heritage-and-values.html?zoom_highlight=hanhart


www.europastar.com

Anonimo Professionale C.N.S.

Courtesy of Anonimo

This is one of the BaselWorld 2011 - Anonimo Professionale C.N.S.

Good down to 2000 meters with only 50 up for grabs!

www.anonimo.com

Feldo Final Report

And once again, 15 days have come and gone, and the Feldo is due 
to head back home.


So let me try to sum up -


From Feldo - here are the technical specs:

• Wrist watch diameter of 45 mm
• Stainless steel case, black plated (PVD)
• Japanese quartz movement (Miyota)
• The wristwatch is driven by a 10-year battery
• Pressure-resistant up to 5 bar (50 m)
• Weight 95 g (including bracelet)

What has been interesting is that more than one woman has 
asked to try it on and the feedback was fairly consistent - 

while it was larger than their wrists, they LOVED

wearing it.  They loved the look, the size and the fact that 
telling the time was not so "obvious".

In terms of time-keeping, it has been perfect.  While this 
is something that most of us have come to expect from a
quartz watch, it is not always the case.  The Feldo passed 

with flying colors.

For a watch at this price-point, I must say that the finish and the attention 
to detail were first-rate!  The PVD (easily an aspect that can often be neglected) 
was perfectly executed. 

In addition to the main case, Feldo also treated the back of the case.  
This is something that you don't always see, even with watches
costing ten times as much.  

One of the key themes running through the Feldo is "complimentary contrasts".  

From the multi-color/multi-layered dial to the pvd with the stainless 
steel crown and interior bezel - not to mention the stainless steel fasteners at
the back of the case!  This is something that instead of distracting the wearer,
actually compels them to take a closer look.

The rubber strap is in a "tire-tread" pattern and is secured with a 
stainless steel clasp -

The result is a very comfortable to wear watch, that can 
stand up to daily use.

I must say that for the price point, this is a very, very 
impressive and unique time keeper.  Feldo has a winner!

www.feldo-luxury.co.uk

Today's entry from the NOMOS Encyclopaedia is...

Today's entry from the NOMOS Enc
Ludwig -
NOMOS Encyclopaedia, page 116

The new Ludwig models courtesy of NOMOS

Ludwig


The Ludwig model is in 2nd place on the hit list of top-selling NOMOS watches.
Only the Tangente is in greater demand.  Its NOMOS Alpha movement is a 
hand-wound movement.  The watch comes with a grey dial and steel back
or with a white dial and glass back.  Ludwig is water resistant up to 30 metres.


(NOMOS ENCYCLOPAEDIA, 1st English Edition, 
(c) Kommunikationsverein, Berlin, 2006


www.glashuette.com

Remembering Rolf Schnyder

By now, I'm sure that you have read or heard elsewhere about the passing
of Rolf Schnyder.

Reading this when I woke up this morning, I was reminded what Ludwig Oechslin had to say about
Mr. Schnyder:

"Rolf Schnyder is a wonderful guy. He is also, to some extent, a nervous guy! He was always pushing a new idea forward, which invariably meant that I was running "minute miles" to keep up with him! He is someone who never thinks about the limitations, never says impossible! Instead he thinks in terms of - how can we do this?!"

Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin

Success stories

Success stories...
the watch industry lately seems to be full of them. We watch fans love to hear and read about the genius who saved a company from the graveyard - Jean-Claude Biver's success with Blancpain, and then later successes with Omega and now Hublot.

And Mr. Hayek who probably saved the Swiss watch industry.

It would be great to be a part of something like that...

But I want to ask all of you who read this - and to my great shock and pleasant surprise, there are many of you out there - what would you do if you didn't get paid on time?  I mean, you go to work, you do what you're supposed to, and you don't get paid? I can well imagine what your reaction would be. Many of you have had the sudden shock of losing your job.  Suddenly, buying a watch is very far down the list of your priorities. Many of you can remember living paycheck to paycheck, but what if you don't even have a paycheck?

And this, in a way, is now an open letter to the Swiss watch making industry as well as the luxury industry as a whole - I get bombarded with press releases daily from the various luxury companies, many of them telling the world how a phenomenally wealthy, prosperous and famous actor, singer or athlete is now the ambassador.  So in other words - this is the big news... they've given another freebie to another wealthy, successful person that can afford to buy this item several times over. The CEO comes out to present the watch, there's the "Grin and Grip" photo opportunity, and a year or so later we tend to have forgotten what the initiative was, and within five years the celebrity has moved on, and the watch company has moved on to the next thing. I want to be clear, any charity initiative is positive, but it is finite. The money is given and that is the end of the cycle.  So please DON'T STOP with your charitable outreach, but... what if there was a different approach? 

What if there was a charitable thing that you could do that was not charity at all? How often do you see those signs of homeless people - "will work for food"? What if you could actually give that person a job so that they would be able to support themselves and not be on the street? And not just any job, but actually help them start a business? And lastly, what if you weren't actually giving anything, but actually LENDING the money to someone so that they could start a micro business for themselves, and then pay it back so that OTHER people could borrow this money and then start THEIR micro business and pay it back... this is the concept of micro finance. And this is the concept behind the MeisterSinger Neo -

You will also notice something new on my blog's page - a banner ad/link to the site where you can order this watch.  A portion of each watch purchased goes to help with micro loans so that someone who REALLY needs the help can start to stand on their own feet and help themselves.

So here is your chance to be a part of a true watch making success story, to be a part of someone else's success story.  And the watch is pretty swell as well!

www.microfinance.at

15 Days with Feldo V1 - Update

So it has been a great week PLUS with the Feldo V1

Add caption

So let me tell you what these days have been like...

FUN!  This is, above all, a really fun watch!  Looking at the face, right off the bat you feel transported
to a place and a time when you weren't necessarily too worried about about being exactly on time.

I love the contrast of the dial, a stainless steel inner bezel surounds a predominantly red dial.  The red dial is somewhat "horse-shoed" and in the open section you are treated to a glimpse of black carbon-fiber!

In addition,  a central "mystery" dial lends itself to the hour hand, while a "minute scale" divided into 5 minute increments advances in the right hand section.

The quality of the pvd finish of the case is really, really good, and of a much higher quality than several
more expensive, so-called "professional" watches.

The use of accenting tones and hues is not just limited to the dial.  While both the watch case is PVD, the crown and the clasp are both stainless

The rubber strap is also another great complement to the watch as a whole.  More on that in the concluding post coming Saturday.

I have to say, Feldo has done something very, very fun and positive with this watch.

CHRISTOPHER WARD: Launch C70 Monte-Carlo

Courtesy of Christoper Ward

C70 Monte-Carlo

Christopher Ward’s new C70 Monte-Carlo has been created to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Monte-Carlo Rally. The limited edition watch, available to pre-order for the end of June, reflects the danger and glamour of the race as well as the technical precision needed to emerge victorious.

www.christopherward.co.uk

GRAHAM movie - TT3D

This just in from Graham -

GRAHAM is proud to announce its partnership with TT3D : Closer to the edge. A unique 3D documentary on the mythical TT race, narrated by famous actor Jared Leto.

You will follow the story of the race and its racing icons : Guy Martin and Ian Hutchinson, both proudly wearing their GRAHAM.

In the mad dash, you will notice our presence. As official timekeeper of the Tourist Trophy, GRAHAM plays an important role especially on crucial timing scenes.

GRAHAM will attend the premiere of the movie today and walk on the red carpet in London.

The film will be released on Friday, April 22nd in UK cinemas and later everywhere else.

Celebrate action and adrenaline with us. Take a look at our new TT3D page to watch the exclusive trailer.

http://www.graham-london.com/en-gb/events/tt3d.aspx

Let’s go for a mad ride.

The Outdoor from Archimede

This is a new release from Archimede -

The Outdoor
 

Courtesy of Archimede

Like it says on the can, this is a watch designed for the outdoors. It is light (70g with leather strap, 120g with steel bracelet), comfortably sized (38.5mm x 10.5mm) but ruggedly built and equal to the most demanding environments making it suitable for all outdoor sports.





Courtesy of Archimede

Improvements include a new dial, completely redesigned to give perfect readability even in low light and an upgraded screw-down crown proven on the SportTaucher. The brushed stainless steel case with screw down back protects the rugged Swiss Sellita SW200 movement. Water resistant to 200m you can take this watch surfing in Hawaii or climbing in the Alps.

Courtesy of Archimede

The ARCHIMEDE OutDoor is available directly from ARCHIMEDE


US customers:
www.archimede-uhren.de/US/Outdoor.htm for US$ 675 (strap) or
$745 (steel bracelet), including shipping and all US duties and for

International customers:
www.archimede-uhren.de/EN/ Outdoor.htm for Eur 445 (strap) or
Eur 495 (steel bracelet), plus shipping costs.
 
www.archimede-uhren.de

Jaeger-LeCoultre and UNESCO

This just in from JLC -

Within the framework of the partnership between Jaeger-LeCoultre, 
the International Herald Tribune and the UNESCO World Heritage Centre,
the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux is announcing the auction 
of a unique model:

Prototype N°1 of the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea 
“LeCoultre Spécial Amérique 1959” commemorative edition watch
a contemporary re-edition of the timepiece that represented an essential
landmark in watchmaking history.

It was the world’s first diver’s watch to be equipped with an alarm 
function  specially designed to provide divers with a specific audible 
indication warning them it is time to begin a progressive return to 
the surface.

Pre-registration is open now

https://auction.jaeger-lecoultre.com

Bidding period is from April 18^th (12.00 C.E.T) to April 21^st(18.00 C.E.T)

Proceeds from the sale will be entirely donated to the endangered Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary located 500 kilometres of the Colombian coast,

in the Pacific Ocean and the surrounding maritime zone, considered one of the world’s most extraordinary diving spots.

Is it SWISS enough?

This just in from Bloomberg -


http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-04-10/swiss-watchmakers-may-not-all-be-swiss-enough-to-scale-barriers.html

From the 1940s to today - the new Sea Hawk

Girard-Perregaux first conceived of the Sea Hawk name in the 1940s 
to indicate a time piece intended for some of the harshest conditions.

The most recent interpretation of the Sea Hawk, and its strong
diving DNA are a fairly recent development - with the current
design being adopted in 2002.

Courtesy of Girard - Perregaux

This is the most recent interpretation - the Sea Hawk Pro 1000 meter.

Courtesy of the nice folks at Girard-Perregaux, here are the specs:

Steel case

Diameter: 44 mm
Crystal: sapphire
Helium decompression valve
Case-back and crown: screwed
Water resistance: 100 ATM
Girard-Perregaux Movement GP033R0
(mechanical with automatic winding)
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, small second, power reserve indicator, date
Rubber strap
Safety folding clasp with extension system

 
 
www.girard-perregaux.com