Wednesday, February 8, 2023
When the Circus (doesn't) Come to Town...
Tuesday, February 7, 2023
And The Next Person To Take The Helm At Audemars Piguet Is...
Gotcha'!
But while we're playing Watch Town's version of "The Masked Singer", I thought it wouldn't be such a crazy idea to float some ideas as to who might be next?
I can't really claim to know much about the machinations at AP. But this is a new reality for what is still at its heart, a private family company - suddenly everyone is up in their business... so let's have a look!
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But back to AP...
What I continue to be confounded by is what seems to be the lack of a clear succession plan. On the one hand, the argument could be made that as a private company, AP is not going to show all their cards. Well, that's as maybe, but I think there's a wee bit more going on here. What is also interesting is (and this may just be little me thinking this), is that (to the best of my knowledge) Mr. Bennahmias has not really come out with his own suggestions as to who should or could replace him from within the ranks. And as someone who is a director in his "day job" (albeit for a much less glamorous organization), I find this disappointing. I subscribe to the belief that a large part of your responsibilities as a manager is to ensure that your team grows, develops, and if you did your job well, at least one of your team will be ready to replace you. Why? For the very simple fact that nothing is permanent. Every job out there is a "temp" job. We all leave our posts eventually, one way or the other. Ideally not carried out on a stretcher feet first, but that has also been known to happen in Watch Town.
So then, who would I put my marker on to take over from the current CEO? It's a curious question. It does not help that this is perhaps one of the most talked about and drawn out talent searches for a new CEO since HBO's Succession -
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| Courtesy of HBO |
It cannot be denied that under Mr. Bennahmias AP has grown significantly as a brand. But for many people out there (both enthusiasts and those of us in the Fourth and Fifth Estates) it also feels as if it has somewhat coalesced into a large brand with, essentially, one collection - The Royal Oak. But that will clearly be a challenge for the next CEO, whoever that will be.
So although I love a scoop and it's exciting to sign off with "You heard it here first!", the truth is that we will all have to wait and see what color the smoke is coming out of the chimney at AP.
Until then - enjoy your watches!
Saturday, February 4, 2023
Why I Bought (and kept) the Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956
GREEN!
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| Courtesy of Echo/Neutra |
Now to be clear, I was in attendance working for another brand. And proudly so. But if you are serious about your work, you will (at a minimum) take a walk around the space and see what else is out there - first hand.
I had been following Echo/Neutra from my previous Tempus Fugit blog, but had yet to see one up-close and personal. I had my eyes laser-focused on what Serica was offering. And while their field watch was (and is) very nice, I had sent multiple emails to them as a potential customer that went unanswered. (and multiple emails regarding availability and pricing since the Wind-Up show have also received no reply). So I would be less-than forthright if I gave the impression that I only had eyes for the Cortina. But the lack of response I had from Serica prior to the show made me reconsider my first impulse - or at least put it on hold for the time being. And so when I happened upon the Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 I was somewhat blindsided by how cool I thought it was.
There was not a whole lot of discussion about the pros and cons with the two guys from Echo/Neutra. It was a pretty straight-forward pitch:
"This is the watch, this is the price."
I have to say that I truly appreciate and respect that level of clarity. So after checking it out on the final Sunday morning of the show, I walked over at around noon and to paraphrase that other great commentator on the watch business, Boz Scaggs - "I put my money on the table and drove it off the lot".
So now nearly 3 months later, it is still in fairly heavy rotation. Which begs the question - why?In and of itself, it is a fairly straightforward field watch, much like many others. It's a nice "Goldilocks" size (not too big, not too small, but just right) at 40 mm in diameter. The strap width is 20 mm, and if you order online, my understanding is that your purchase price includes 2 straps. I opted for the original green and a black tropic strap. While both are well made and comfy, I find that the retaining loops on the tropic strap are slightly too large and tend to slip over the end of the strap and buckle. Not a massive issue, but one to be aware of when you take the watch off at the end of the day.
The dial is what you would want and expect for a field / tool watch - large numbers and indices, highly legible. This is enhanced by the second hand with its red and white striped tip.The domed sapphire crystal is the perfect "capper" to the watch as a whole. The bezel is fixed, with a standard 60 minute scale, green with yellow markers and numbers. While some others have commented that this is a "vintage" vibe, I think that is a bit too simple an answer. It is clearly a field watch with its own sensibility. In a world filled with black dialed watches, it is something special.
Cortina 1956 | 3H Green
FROM: $750.00
→ THICKNESS: 11.9mm
→ LUG2LUG: 46mm
→ CROWN: Screw-down type
→ CRYSTAL: Box-shaped Sapphire glass
→ MOVEMENT: STP1-11 Swiss automatic
→ BEZEL: Ceramic fixed bezel
→ STRAPS: 2 X Straps included
→ WR: 100m
→ SWISS MADE
Wednesday, February 1, 2023
For A Few Euros More
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| Courtesy of GQ |
Tuesday, January 31, 2023
The BR 01 Cyber Skull
From Bell & Ross -
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| Courtesy of Bell & Ross |
This version of the Skull marks the latest iteration of the Skull's talisman connection to Bell & Ross and the BR 01, which first came out in 2009 with the BR 01 Skull. This bronze version is limited to 500 pieces.
Here are the pertinents:
Movement:
BR-CAL.210. Manufacture. Hand-wound mechanical.
Functions:
hours and minutes. Moving skull jawbone when wound by hand.
Case:
45 mm x 46.7 mm. 13.70 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished CuSn8 bronze. Sapphire and CuAI7Si2 bronze case- back.
Dial:
skeletonised. Rose gold-plated brass skull (or bronze- coloured skull). Gilt metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®- filled hour and minute hands. Balance at 12 o’clock.
Crystal:
sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water Resistance:
50 metres.
Strap:
Black Rubber
Buckle:
pin. Satin-finished and polished CuAI7Si2 bronze.
The price of admission is $11,400.00
Friday, January 27, 2023
The Mido Ocean Star GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee
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| Courtesy of Yours' Truly |
This was back in the days where a guy didn't probably have a "collection", he had a watch. And because he didn't have a cell phone with a clock, or a computer, etc., he depended on that watch to ensure he got everywhere on time. Needless to say, things have changed. But one thing that hasn't is the sense of longing many of us feel as time moves relentlessly forward. If we are lucky, we long for those happy memories that helped frame a simpler (for us, if not our parents) time. Obviously not every moment of every childhood is treasured, or even remembered. And even those that are remembered are often blurred with age.
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| Courtesy of Hodinkee and Mido |
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| Courtesy of Hodinkee and Mido |
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| Courtesy of Hodinkee and Mido |
- Model: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Limited Edition For Hodinkee
- Reference: M026.829.11.051.00
- Function: Time, GMT, Date
- Material: Stainless steel
- Dimensions: 40.5mm diameter; 13.43mm thickness
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Caseback: Stainless steel with Hodinkee Limited Edition and xxx/999 engraved
- Dial: Black
- Lume: SuperLuminova
- Caliber: Caliber 80 C07.661
- Power Reserve: 80 Hours
- Water Resistance: 200 M
- Bracelet/Strap: Steel mesh, Brown Leather, Two-piece Nylon
- Lug Width: 21mm
Thursday, January 26, 2023
Kitsch...
And, no, Martha Stewart and Jerry Springer are NOT bad enough to be kitsch. At all. Paris and Nicole though...
I saw an awesome Andy Warhol knockoff at the galley yesterday, it was so kitsch. I couldn't get it though, I didn't have the cash. *sounds dissappointed*
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| Courtesy of Wikipedia |
It goes without saying (or at least it should) that art, design, and other creative endeavors are subjective. One person's trash is another's treasure, or so it's been said. My very first serious watch was a yellow dialed Omega Speedmaster chronograph - the Schumacher Racing edition (which also came in a red version). Needless to say, it was a bold choice back in 1997. But I loved that watch. I bought it at a jeweler in Turku, Finland with the extra money I got from tutoring the children of a Saudi family who were studying at St. Andrews that summer. A lot of people thought it was a bit much, but I didn't care.
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| Courtesy of the Velveteria collection in Black Velvet Masterpieces |
Over the years there have been several instances where the envelope has been pushed in terms of design, color palette, and co-brand partners. And in many ways this is a positive thing as it ensures that many different voices can and will be heard.
But when creative roars past kitsch and takes the express lane to, well, slightly tacky? Invariably, the protagonists will crow about how they are "challenging the status quo!" While that's as maybe, I am reminded of a quote from the past that seems universally applicable, but particularly so in this instance -
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should".
Ultimately it is for the final customer to determine whether or not they want to paddle out and ride a new wave. The hope is, as ever, that the item will sell. But to simply slap on emoticons to pre-existing designs is not really what I (personally) would consider ground breaking or inclusive or disruptive.
It's a gag.
Don't get me wrong, gags can be fun. And let's hope for the sake of every gag loving watch project out there that the customers respond - and hopefully do so in a positive manner. Because if they don't, those once whimsical endeavors tend to linger around and start to smell like a houseguest after three days...
Thursday, January 19, 2023
It's Been A Minute...
Ladies and gentleman, it is my sincere pleasure to introduce you the Henki Time - The Bulldog Edition
As former regular readers will know, I handed the keys to Tempus Fugit to a new owner nearly a year ago. And while that may or may not have been the right decision for me, I respect the new owner/ owners efforts and wish them well.
With that said, I found that I was (more often than not) reading a lot of the same thing in virtually every outlet. And I had enough kind messages from both brands and readers that I thought it might be time to fly a new flag, and thus I welcome you to Henki Time - the Bulldog Edition.
What the hell is a bulldog edition?
For those of you unfamiliar, a bulldog edition harkens back to the old days of the newspaper business. A "bulldog edition" was an early (or even earliest) edition of the newspaper on a given morning. Large scale events would necessitate that newspaper publishers create whole entire editions to accommodate breaking news. Yes young people, there was a time before cable news and the internet...
So what are we covering? New releases, interviews, industry news. And we will be diving a bit beyond just watches, so we encourage you to check in from time to time.
So, don't call it a comeback ; )
I look forward to continuing the conversation!
Henki
North Shore, MA, USA
January 19, 2023
Tuesday, March 29, 2022
The Importance of Respecting A Press Embargo - Or When Exclusive Really Means Exclusion
So after many hours of shuffling around in the February chill, not infrequent runs to the nearby gas station for cokes, and several bio breaks behind the Ponderosa Steak House dumpster, we were finally admitted into the inside of the mall and were able to purchase our tickets at 9:00 AM.
- Swatch dropped the ball in terms of logistics on this one. There is no nice way to say it. Some "Exclusive" Swatch Boutiques were so exclusive that they might as well have been excluded, with fewer than 100 pieces allocated to them.
- Secrecy is no excuse for making so few units in advance and not having a reasonable amount deployed. They say they were working on it for a year. That was ample time to get ready.




















