Showing posts with label HBO. Show all posts
Showing posts with label HBO. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 7, 2023

And The Next Person To Take The Helm At Audemars Piguet Is...

Gotcha'!

But while we're playing Watch Town's version of "The Masked Singer", I thought it wouldn't be such a crazy idea to float some ideas as to who might be next?

I can't really claim to know much about the machinations at AP. But this is a new reality for what is still at its heart, a private family company - suddenly everyone is up in their business... so let's have a look!

But before we go forward, let's hop into the Wayback Machine to those thrilling days of yesteryear - 1987 to be specific. For those of you around at that point, can you remember where you were and what you were doing? I had just received $50 and a firm handshake from my father, who in turn informed me that Chicago was "that way, and Oregon a bit further down the road. If you hit the Pacific, you've gone too far." Needless to say, that seems like a million years ago. Curious to relate, 1987 was another significant year for someone else in the watch world, one Georges-Henri Meylan.

Now I realize for the younger kids out there that what I am about to say is going to trip you out, but a lot of the real happenings at AP started under the guidance of Mr. Meylan. AP was a WHOLE different type of company when he took over the leadership, having a not insubstantial stake in another little brand - Jaeger-LeCoultre. By organizing the sale of it, he brought in much needed funds that helped ensure the stability of AP and also helped ensure its growth. He also was instrumental in helping guide the career and development of the current CEO. This is not to say that the current incumbent has not overseen some phenomenal growth (not to mention a truly staggering list of professional golf playing "chums of the brand"), but is to say that there were already some seismic shifts underway when Mr. Meylan abandoned the field only to pop up later with a whole new jam.

But back to AP...

What I continue to be confounded by is what seems to be the lack of a clear succession plan.  On the one hand, the argument could be made that as a private company, AP is not going to show all their cards. Well, that's as maybe, but I think there's a wee bit more going on here. What is also interesting is (and this may just be little me thinking this), is that (to the best of my knowledge) Mr. Bennahmias has not really come out with his own suggestions as to who should or could replace him from within the ranks. And as someone who is a director in his "day job" (albeit for a much less glamorous organization), I find this disappointing. I subscribe to the belief that a large part of your responsibilities as a manager is to ensure that your team grows, develops, and if you did your job well, at least one of your team will be ready to replace you. Why? For the very simple fact that nothing is permanent. Every job out there is a "temp" job. We all leave our posts eventually, one way or the other. Ideally not carried out on a stretcher feet first, but that has also been known to happen in Watch Town.

So then, who would I put my marker on to take over from the current CEO? It's a curious question. It does not help that this is perhaps one of the most talked about and drawn out talent searches for a new CEO since HBO's Succession -

Courtesy of HBO
But if I fancied a flutter, I might place a chip next to the former CEO of Carl F. Bucherer. Sascha Moeri left his post about 7 or 8 months ago. Assuming that there was a non-compete clause in his contract, it would likely be up within a year. He did well with CFB, but more importantly he has a lot of experience working with a similar set-up in terms of a privately held organization.  Now I have met Mr. Moeri a grand total of ONE time, and that was back in 2012 in Las Vegas. So truth be told, this is just me looking at the tea leaves that represent the pool of potential new CEOs out there and trying to assess who might be a "fit". 


The internal options for AP are somewhat limited, at least if we simply tried to look at the roster to see who might be a likely fit. Although I think it would be exciting if one of the new regional CEOs were brought back to the mother ship to take the helm, the US CEO is still quite new both to AP and to the watch business in general, so I don't suspect it will go that way. 

It cannot be denied that under Mr. Bennahmias AP has grown significantly as a brand. But for many people out there (both enthusiasts and those of us in the Fourth and Fifth Estates) it also feels as if it has somewhat coalesced into a large brand with, essentially, one collection - The Royal Oak. But that will clearly be a challenge for the next CEO, whoever that will be. 

So although I love a scoop and it's exciting to sign off with "You heard it here first!", the truth is that we will all have to wait and see what color the smoke is coming out of the chimney at AP.

Until then - enjoy your watches!

Friday, November 15, 2019

Ralph Lauren Polo Bear Collection

From the Amazon Prime Series Jack Ryan -

Nicolás Reyes: [coming down from his horse] Do you know anything about polo?

James Greer: I know Ralph Lauren makes a great shirt.

Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
For those of you who don't have HBO, I highly recommend that you find a way to watch the documentary on Ralph Lauren.  


It aired last night (at the original time of writing this article) from 9:00 PM, and whether you appreciate fashion, a success story, you are a fan of artists and what drives them, or simply enjoy a true entrepreneurial story?  Get it in front of you and watch it.  It is worth your time.
Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
I will not craft a false narrative and say to anyone that I was a fan of the first iteration of the Ralph Lauren watch collection.  They just weren't my jam.  While it was (and as far as I know still) is a partnership with Richemont, and while the look is classic, I just felt that the same thing was available through other Richemont brands.   The Ralph Lauren collection evolved and grew, but for whatever reason it never really resonated with me.
Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
And then something happened this past BaselWorld.  A Ralph Lauren watch changed my mind, and did so in the highly unlikely form of an earlier Ralph Lauren Bear watch being worn on the wrist of a young blogger from Singapore.  Think about this for a minute, BaselWorld is the ultimate vanity/ego trip for those of us in the media.  We fret and worry about which watch to wear because we want to stay "fresh" in the eyes of our peers.  And you will see some extraordinary pieces from time to time - tourbillons, equations of time, I could be wrong but I might have seen one last year that can make a cappuccino ; )  Remember, we are the lucky few that from time to time will be gifted with prototypes and other rare one-offs that can't be bought or sold.  So what did this dashing young man have on one of his wrists?  A Polo Bear watch.  And I am not engaging in hyperbole when I tell you that this watch got a lot of attention.  Not because it was a tourbillon, not because it was crafted of Unobtanium, nor because the dial was varnished with the tears of unicorns.  The real reason?

It was FUN!  And it spoke to me and to the several journalists, collectors and even independent brand owners that were gathered around our mini-fair at the HYPE.  And the more I think about it, it isn't too difficult to understand.  For the same reason that I continually hope that some brand will make a truly solid, classic, mechanical Tintin or Snoopy watch, this young man's Polo Bear watch hit that wonderfully joyful visceral button.  It spoke to the idea of why we like watches in the first place.  It goes without saying that in today's world, you don't NEED a watch.  You want one.  

And my personal favorite out of the new collection?
Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
The Tuxedo 42 mm.  It just speaks to me.

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Automatic Swiss movement, made by Sellita Caliber: RL200, 11’’’1/2, 26 jewels Frequency: 28'800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) Power reserve : ~38 hours
Decor: Vertical Côtes de Genève and perlage (circular graining)

FUNCTIONS 
Hours, minutes, central seconds

CASE
Stainless steel, polished
Diameter: 
42.00 mm
Thickness: 10.7 mm
Curved sapphire crystal, internal colourless anti-reflective treatment 
Open case back with sapphire
Inter-lug width: 20.00 mm
Water resistance: 5 bar (~50 m)
Crown: Stainless Steel with Pony logo

DIAL
Color: Off White (creamy) lacquered
Black Arabic numbers, printed Bear 3D printed

HANDS
Hour, minute: red, lacquered Second: Shiny black, lacquered

BRACELET 
Black Alligator, 20mm/18mm – 115/75mm

BUCKLE
Pin buckle 18.00 mm, polished