Ressence Type 1ZZ

So point of full disclosure here - I personally really like Benoît Mintiens.  He is a sincerely nice guy, and he deserves the success he's had.  

So the latest offering is a pretty clear indication that Ressence is here to stay.

Courtesy of Ressence

This is a collaboration with Ressence and Laurent Picciotto of Chronopassion.

Courtesy of Ressence

Here are the pertinents -

FunctionsHours
MinutesSeconds
Weekdays

Movement
Patented ROCS 1 - Ressence Orbital Convex System - driven by the minute axle of a specially customized 2892/A caliber
Case back winding and time setting via lever on the case back
Self-winding
36 hours’ power reserve
28,800 vibrations per hour
40 jewels
27 gears

Dial
Convex German Silver dial (125mm radius) with 3 eccentric bi axial satellites inclined at 3° (hours) and 4.75° (seconds and week days) in matte dark gray PVD
Engraved indications filled with black paint
Black polished hands

Case
Grade 5 Titanium in matte black DLC
Double domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
42 mm (diameter) x 11 mm (thickness)
1 ATM water-resistance

Buckle & Strap
Grade 5 Titanium in matt black DLC ardillon buckle
Black barenia strap (20/20mm)

Limited Edition
20 non numbered pieces (engraving “1 of 20” on the case back)

Price
EUR 18’500 (taxes included)

The Sound You Hear...

Is the sound of shit hitting the fan....globally.
Phil Devos - Elizabethtown (as played by Alec Baldwin)

Courtesy of the FH

April is in the books, and it was a bit of a turd.  Swiss watch exports continue to slide in a southern direction.  What seems clear is that, most likely, exports are going to continue to slide steadily towards zero.  We have already seen the initial bump (which was not really much of a bump at all) from the SIHH and BaselWorld.  

In terms of retail here in North America, we are currently in the second best sweet spot for male watch purchasing - "Dads and Grads" with high school and college graduations and Fathers Day taking place.  And the numbers for April in the US reflect an increase in watches coming in, so that perhaps that could be viewed as a bright spot, except...

The anecdotal evidence from out in the field is that traditional retail sales are still pretty flat.  But also curious to relate?  Outlets that offer "gently used" watches are growing at a fairly rapid pace.  More and more brands are turning to blockchain verification systems for pre-owned (which in many instances really means grey-market, with the "previous owner" being the brand itself), and this, in turn, ensures that resale prices continue to drop.  

We shall see what May has to offer, and let's hope the overall export numbers don't continue to dip.  But what this continued slide really reveals?  The lessons of the 70s, 2008 and the past few years seem to still not resonate with the shot callers in several brands.

The Snow Star

From Milus -

Courtesy of Milus

The third, and in many ways for some of us, most exciting piece in the initial three model family offering for Milus is the Snow Star.

As I previously mentioned, I got more than a jump on my colleagues in the 4th and 5th Estate as Milus was one of the brands participating at The HYPE during BaselWeek this past March.  

The former Sleeping Beauty was awoken from a rather unfortunate slumber a few years ago when the brand was purchased by none other than Luc Tissot.

It is available in the silver version (above) which is based on the original -

  

The red date is that extra something that really adds to the watch.
The only thing that I would change?  I would use an "inverted cyclops" date window for the crystal, as I think it adds a certain "what's it" to the watch overall.

It is also available in a very attractive black version -

Courtesy of Milus

The case is a very welcome 39 mm in diameter, and is of polished stainless steel.  A very traditionally laid out dial, hours minutes, seconds and date.  The movement is ETA's 2892A2  (TOP).

And the packaging is actually useful!

Courtesy of Milus

Priced (at least in my opinion) quite fairly at CHF 1,690, direct from Milus.

A Moon Phase

From Chronoswiss -

Courtesy of Chronoswiss

There are a lot of complications out there.  Some are super useful, and others not so much.  For my part I am in two camps.  In terms of the practical?  I love chronographs.  But the romantic in me loves a moon phase.  The more straightforward, the better!  And that is why the Chronoswiss Moon Phase CH-8523.

The dial is clean and legible, very well laid out.  The date is at 6 o'clock and is actually legible, a bit of a minor triumph considering that for many designers it is an after-thought.  The case and crown?  Classic Chronoswiss.

Here are the pertinents, per Chronoswiss -

Case

Reference	CH-8523
Case material	Stainless steel
Case back	Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal
Diameter in mm	40
Height in mm	10.12
Finish	Partly polished, partly with satin finish
Bezel	Polished screw-down bezel with side knurling and full thread

Caliber/Movement

Caliber	Caliber C. 351, automatic
Frequency	4 Hz (28.800 A/h)
Power reserve in hours	Approx. 42
Number of jewels	21

Dial

Dial material	Solid sterling silver (925), guilloche
Display/s	Central hours, minutes and seconds, analog date and moon phase at 6:00
Design of hands	Thermally blued, hand-finished steel hands
Shape of hands	Breguet Losange

Strap & buckle

Strap material	Louisiana crocodile leather
Type of buckle	Pin buckle or folding clasp

The Cost of Coverage

As many regular readers know, I work on behalf of several watch brands in various areas, including marketing and media.  For some brands, that means reaching out to my colleagues in the fourth and fifth estate and sending press releases and updates.  And I had rather a curious experience yesterday.  After sending a press release nearly a week ago, I got back a rate sheet!  For those not familiar, allow me to inform you that a rate sheet is a document sent by a publication (both print and digital) that breaks down the "rates" for advertising.  Curious to relate, this rate sheet was not for advertising, but rather for having a story appear in their publication.

I am a reasonable guy, and I know that in this revived time of self/  reinvention there are a lot of folks out there feverishly working to construct a new career for themselves.  And to be clear, I am all in favor of entrepreneurs and people launching new businesses.  But here is where the line becomes blurred.  When you visit a site, buy a magazine, or pop over to a blog you are doing so because you are seeking an opinion.  And it used to be that there was a certain degree of pride that a journalist, writer, pundit would take in having THEIR OWN OPINION and not being fearful about sharing it.  

But, alas, that type of "daring-do" seems to have gone the way of a free press. 
As I was reminded yesterday, there is no shortage of people and outlets ready to accept coin of the realm in exchange for singing a brand's praises.  And I guess maybe that is the way the world works.  But it makes it harder and harder for a customer, enthusiast or novice to understand if they are really getting an honest opinion or not.

So, gentle reader, I promise you we will continue to keep it 100 here at Tempus Fugit (per the Urban Dictionary - To tell the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth. AKA "Keep it Real" or be honest with youself as well as others.
Used the same as "on the strength", "on my Momma", "swear to God", "real talk", "on everything I Love" and of course "Keep it 100").  And brand managers and owners? You don't have to PAY ME to cover you.  And the kicker?  There are hundreds of other folks out there that you don't have to pay either!

The Lab 01

From Milus -

Courtesy of Milus 

This is one of the three model families introduced by the newly revitalized Milus during BaselWeek at The HYPE this past March.

Courtesy of Milus

This is, to my way of thinking, a pretty cool departure from the norm, and what is expected.  Most brands will make a brass dial, paint it and call it done.  Even when they go for some "effects" the effects are really more "affectation".  The dial is of fiberglass!  Think about that for a moment!  

I am a guy trapped in three different periods.  I am a huge fan of Bauhaus, but also of mid-century modern (Eames, et. al.) Atomic Ranch sensibilities.  BUT... I am somewhat partial to things that work well, in a modern context, without needing constant repair and attention.  The Lab 01 ticks all of those boxes for me!

Courtesy of Milus

It is available in three different color ways - light grey (above), dark grey and blue.  Having seen them all in person?  They are dope!  And at a suggested retail price of CHF 990?  C'mon, you can't beat that with a stick!

The case measures 40 mm, and is polished stainless steel. Hours, minutes and seconds, the movement is Sellita's SW200.

The Shell Star Automatic

From Delma -

Courtesy of Delma

For those readers here in the US, unless you are planning a trip to Toronto, Jamaica or ports farther afield?  Well let's just say you are not likely to run across this wrist rocket.  And that's a shame.  Delma makes some cool shit.  And the Shell star is certainly cool.

44 mm, stainless steel case.  Unidirectional divers bezel, blue aluminum.  The movement is the ETA 2824-2.  Water resistant to 500 meters.

Introducing Allemano

Now in fairness, you may already be acquainted.  But something new for me was found deep in the bowels of the less-than-fancy section of Hall 1  -

Courtesy of Allemano

Allemano.  And if you're scratching your head as you read this, you are not alone.  But I have to be honest, it kinda' caught my attention.

Allemano started out life as something quite different.  How different?  Well, you know that expression "all roads lead to Rome"?  Well, I can't speak to a Roman destination, but I can tell you that Allemano originally manufactured the machines that flatten the tarmac when roads are created, and here in the Northeast, repaired.

Courtesy of Allemano

From road work, the company went into gauges for cars, airplanes, and even wrist-bound depth gauges.  So the jump to watches is not as random as you might think.

Per the info I have received, the watches are assembled in Italy, using Swiss movements.

There are three models families, the one featured in this post is called, MAN.  No, I am not kidding ; ) 

Courtesy of Allemano

 It is available antique white (above), and black -

Courtesy of Allemano

The movement is hand-wound, and provides the basis for a regulator set-up with small seconds at 6 o'clock.

Courtesy of Allemano

Pretty basic, but then again, this is not a watch claiming to be something that it is not.  

Like I said, kinda' digging this one!

For those of you interested in such things, here are the pertinents, straight from Allemano -

CASE:
44 mm
All 316L Stainless steel with sandblasted, brushed, polished finish
5 ATM water-resistant
Sapphire crystal case front and back

MOVEMENT:
Swiss made manual movement
Functions: center hours hand, retrograde minutes hand at 12 o’clock, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock
21600 A/h frequency 
48 hours autonomy

DIAL:
Antique white or black
Traced serial number 

HANDS:
Matt black and red or matte rose gold and red 

STRAP:
Brown or black soft premium Italian leather
Steel buckle paired with the finish of the case 

 

The Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear"ReSec"

From Chronoswiss -

courtesy of Chronoswiss

This was previewed at BaselWorld, but my understanding from Chronoswiss HQ is that is now ready for "prime time".

The case measures 44 mm in diameter, and is of stainless steel with a DLC coating.  The movement is referenced as the Chronoswiss caliber C. 301 which is automatic.

The design is a big point, and an inspiration for the name, Open Gear "ReSec".  In their own words -

The refined Open Gear construction makes the regulator mechanism a main design element. It is put into the spotlight at the face of the dial, where the train wheel bridges in charge of the off-centre hour display were skilfully skeletonized and screwed firmly to the dial, which in turn becomes part of the movement. The eponymous retrograde seconds hand sweeps along the tracks of a 120 degree scale and every 30 seconds jumps back to the start in a trice.

Limited to just 50 pieces.

The Pandial Marina 2

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

This was previewed at BaselWorld back in March, but now it is out and available!

The case measures 43 mm in diameter, and is of stainless steel.  The 3 register chronograph boasts a COSC rated (and verified) Valjoux movement.  Hours, minutes, seconds, date (at 6 o'clock), and of course chronograph.

As with all things offered by Brellum, it is very sensibly priced at CHF 2,490, and available direct, to the public from Brellum HQ.

Care and Feeding of the Watch Press

So it happens like this -

Brand plans a big press event. Brand marketing genius (excuse me while I die laughing) decides that invitations are only going out to the A list. Several A list outlets simply can't be asked, others hint that they could be "enticed" to come, well you know where it goes from here.

Now to a large extent, this is the way it's always been done (at least in recent memory) by small and mid-sized brands, and this is the way it continues to be done.  Needless to say, plenty of bottom-feeding outlets are ready to be there, solemn and sincere interest being feigned at appropriate levels to ensure that the business portion of this transaction is, well, transacted by both sides.  And you know what?  Fair enough.  There will always be confidence men (and women) out there, and there will always be watch brands ready to put something shiny in their hands. 

Now here is where the story takes an even more interesting twist.  Event happens, press release is provided to a select few outlets. And when the rest of the press reaches out to the brand afterward in the hopes of getting the press release, because, you know, that is how the press is supposed to work?  That same Marketing Genius (yes, still laughing) tells said outlets, in essence, to go screw themselves.

Marketing and promoting a watch brand is, contrary to the same self-styled marketing gurus beliefs, nothing that requires some weird Yoda-like approach, is actually pretty simple.  If you are in charge of marketing you have one simple job - make people like you, your brand and the brand's watches.  That's all.  When you treat the press badly?  They are far less inclined to like you, and they are most certainly not going to write about you.

Now I know just what these young sharps are convincing their bosses and themselves of - they are targeting their brand towards the cream of the watch press.  But consider this - when you, as a brand, have to pay (by coin of the realm or by shady gift) to get coverage? You are doing the equivalent of tying a pork-chop around your neck to get the dog to play with you.  And when you tell the press that is willing to cover you for free to go get stuffed?  You're a MORON. 

The Sapphire Crystal Ceiling is Broken - at Patek Philippe USA

Otherwise known as the Henri Stern Watch Agency.  In a welcome breath of fresh air, Patek has taken up the challenge to live and work in the 21st century, and hire not just the best man for the job, but in fact the best PERSON for the job by appointing Lisa Jones as the new President of US operations.

Lisa Jones is by no means a newcomer to Patek, having spent the last 16 years with the brand.  She has worked in several areas including pr, sales and marketing.  Prior to her new appointment, she was the vice president.

She takes over from Larry Pettinelli, who has been a fixture with Patek since the 80s.  Mr. Pettinelli will be, apparently, embarking on the "next phase of his career" according to the announcement.  And no pals and gals, I have no idea what that really means either.

Now a few things that have been cause for speculation:

1.  What is the near-term future for Patek?  It has been a "family" business for some time, but the next generation of Sterns have, if other reporting is to be believed, not expressed a lot of interest in carrying on in the firm.  Is it time to sell-up and move on?  
(Dear Reader, feel free to insert your random theories involving Biver, Richemont and undisclosed Chinese or Saudi buyers here).

2.  It has been mentioned by some that the brand's Patek sais quoi has lost some of its "thingness".  Re-sale values of pre-owned Patek pieces are, according to a few pundits, flat.  Re-sale values of Rolex, on the other hand?  Off the chain.

3.  The Swiss watch industry, on the whole?  Not really doing all that well.  The next round of export numbers are due to hit on the 28th, so we'll sift through those tea leaves when the time is ripe.

But, all that being said, congratulations to Lisa Jones for her new position, and congratulations to Patek Philippe for joining the the rest of the world in modern times.  We will see if LVMH is finally ready to follow-suit ; )

A Watch for Cosmonauts

Courtesy of Raketa

This is the Baikonur 0247 from Raketa.

Per the Raketa site, this watch was a design collaboration with Sergei Krikalev, a Cosmonaut who has had six separate missions to the ISS (International Space Station), and if Wikipedia's info is accurate?  Krikalev has logged a total of 803 days and 9 hours and 39 minutes in space. So it's safe to say that he might have a pretty good handle on what is useful on a manned space mission.

Back to the watch -

It is stainless steel, 43 mm in diameter with a 24 hour set-up for time indication.  

Courtesy of Raketa

Here are all of the pertinents -

Movement	Automatic movement
Movement Type	Avtomat 24 hours
Water resistant	20 АТМ
Crystal	Sapphire
Case size	43x13,5 mm
Gender	Man
Strap type	Solid stainless steel bracelet
Size of the strap	22 mm
Wrist size	200 mm
Brand	Raketa