Closing the Circle with G-Shock

I was waiting to cap off my story on G-Shock with my personal G-Shock story.

During our tour of all things Casio, we had the rare opportunity to visit a special trade show/fair just for Casio retail partners.  It showed all of the new models that were coming.  This was a "look don't photograph" opportunity and it was here that Casio and G-Shock finally and firmly got their hook into me as a customer -

Courtesy of G-Shock

This is the Limited Edition DW5035E-7, and after a lot of hunting and hoping...

Something special showed up at Tempus Fugit HQ!

I had checked every retail outlet near me in the Boston-Metro area (boxcars), and then, for a brief exciting moment this specific model was available on the US G-Shock online store, and as I've learned from the past in these situations, if you want it, you need to commit.

So having seen one in Japan a month and a half ago, it was pretty exciting when it arrived.

It was interesting getting Wendy's take on it - "It hits that 'little boy' button.  It takes you back to a happy time and place".

And I think that is pretty accurate (at least in my case) for the visceral pull of some of the G-Shock collection.  The pull of watches for me is not really about exclusivity, and it certainly isn't about price.  It is about something that connects for me on a personal level.  A watch really can be a time machine, something that can take you back to a special place and time.


 
 

Enjoy your watches!

Siduna Prepares for Takeoff!

Courtesy of Siduna

So in the interest of transparency, I think it's important to acknowledge that I am predisposed to liking the soon to be shipping Siduna chronographs.  I personally like one of the owners, I think he is a sane, rational, kind person in an industry filled with quick buck artists.  He cares about what he does and his work shows that.

Having said all of that, this chronograph is something special.

Courtesy of Siduna

It comes standard with a pretty bitchin' rubber strap.  And for those who missed it the first go-round, the Siduna is a bi-compax chronograph, measuring 42 mm in diameter and of stainless steel.  The movement is Valjoux's 7750.

It is simple, elegant, and surprisingly affordable at the pre-order price of € 1,674 ex VAT for the "standard", and the flyback version is slightly more at  € 2,106 ex VAT.  But keep in mind, these are limited time prices, so if you are even leaning towards one of these, RUN, don't walk!  They will be gone quickly.

Here are the pertinents -

Technical Specifications

Dimensions and Weight

• Bezel diameter 42.0 mm
• Lug width 20.0 mm
• Case thickness 16.1 mm
• Weight without strap 92 g (3.24 oz)

Mechanical movement

• Based on ETA/Valjoux 7750
• Thickness 7.9 mm
• Self-winding mechanism
• 25 bearing synthetic rubies
• 28'800 alternances per hour (4 Hz)
• Seconds stop
• ISO 764 Anti-Magnetic
• ISO 1413 Shock-Resistant

Case

• Austenic stainless steel, satin brushed
• Double-domed aspheric sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on the inside
• Screw-down case back, individually numbered
• Screw-down crown
• ISO 22810 Water-Resistant
• Pressure-resistant to 10 bar

Functions

• Hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds
• 30 minutes and ¼ seconds chronograph

Dial and Hands

• Matte black dial with recessed subsidiary dials
• 5 minutes indices with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A
• Numerals with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A
• Hour and minute hand coated with Super-LumiNova® BL C3 Grade A
  

Limited Warranty

• 2 years

 

The Real State of the Union

So another update from the FH squirts more ink into the water, further clouding the reality of where things stand. 

For the record, here are the numbers as reported -

Courtesy of the FH

So the short and sweet?  Exports are down.  But let's take a deeper dive, shall we?

Remember mighty Singapore?  They were up 25% last month!  Guess how they did this month?  Down 49.4%.  Un petit mystère, n'est-ce pas?

Not really.  Because what you will come to figure out if you dig even a little into the uncomfortable reality?  Sales, overall, are down.  Actually, let me re-phrase that.  Sales through traditional, traceable, "normal" channels are down.  And our old friend the Grey Market?  Boom times!

And this is where it gets even murkier - the rise of the "limited edition" / "collaboration" watch.  Not so long ago, a watch brand would not go near anywhere near such limited series.  Anything below a certain threshold would be dismissed out of hand.  It was more headache for smaller margins than they thought it was worth.  And interestingly enough, the margins now seem worth it.  What does that tell you?  Very simple, the brands realize that they need to grab ahold of any margins that they can.  There is a wee bit of marketing thrown in, but simply put, the realities are starker than anyone wants to admit.

And once again, if you think I'm full of it, ask the most recently departed CEO as to just how good real sales really are.  You can make a million watches, you can export a million watches, but if you don't sell a million watches?  Well that is a totally different story.

As a commentator on this sort of stuff, I find myself in a weird place.  I work with brands, both big and small as a consultant.  And I find generally that I have two types of clients - those who are ready to listen and self-reflect, and those who are not.  And in fairness, that is human nature.  

I think what is (for me at least) painfully ironic, is that in many ways we have already been here before.  And the brand CEOs who are frequently finding themselves right back in the same situation that they were before.  

The watch industry, as it is currently structured, is not sustainable.  It simply isn't.   It is currently predicated on some very unrealistic expectations that are based on some very general presumptions without any real hard analysis about population, real income, real levels of disposable income.  When you have a brand that proudly tells you that they only make 50 watches per year, priced at $45,000 each, it raises some very real questions, and this is a summary of one such conversation I had this past BaselWorld:

Q.  How many employees do you have?
A.  Ten
REALITY CHECK - Figure that the CEO is getting at least 100,000 CHF per year.  The other 9 must be making at least 50,000 but likely more.  So that's about half a million right there in payroll.

Q.  Do you sell direct to the customer?
A.  No, we work with distribution agents who then sell to retail partners.
REALITY CHECK - That means that the $45,000 retail is actually 30% coming back to the company.  If we go by the old UN rule of 7% production costs, that really translates into 23% (but it is likely less) which comes out to 10,350 per watch.  Let's multiply that by 45 and we come up with 465,750.  So right away, we have already. outstripped our payroll.  You are already operating at a deficit.

Q.  What do you do if you don't have enough stock?
A.  Well, we still haven't had a year yet where we sell completely through our stock.
REALITY CHECK - SEE ABOVE

Q.  How many foreign travel trips do you make?
A.  Oh, I am always on the road.  I typically have 2 trips to the Middle East, 2 trips to China, and several trips to other locations.
REALITY CHECK - SEE ABOVE

Q.  How many fairs do you participate in addition to BaselWorld?
A.  Probably 5 major fairs.
REALITY CHECK - SEE ABOVE, and the administrators have come in and taken everything.

But somehow, some of these brands magically keep going.  Up until recently it was Chinese money coming in.  But the Chinese have begun realizing that they were throwing good money after bad.  So several of those brands either did a Sleeping Beauty, or they have or are in the process of untangling themselves from these losing enterprises.

What next?  Investors, and by investors I mean money fund managers who (most likely) are passionate about watches and are convinced (often wrongly) that they can turn things around.

Every BaselWorld you see the third entity, the wealthy people who can't afford a Premier League football club, but owning (part or more) of a watch brand is a safer, slower way to flush their money down the toilet.  And up till now, several brands have kept going with what can best be described as a semi-annual search for new investors.  And for the smaller brands, they can probably float along for another 3 - 5 years.

But this year it seems that brands are finally hitting bottom.  And I truly do feel bad for all of the people that this is going to hurt, the midlevel employees.  It remains unclear whether the (now former) CEOs will land on their feet again and live to spend foolishly another day, but the number of brands pulling out of BaselWorld is a true sign, whether or not anyone wants to acknowledge it.  There is a very real culling happening right now.  Some people see it, others will probably only accept it when they are no longer in the positions that they currently enjoy.

What is interesting to me is that we have come somewhat full-circle from where we were in the 70s, then 2008, and we are really right back there again.  

But it's not all doom and gloom.  Because what I think is going to start happening is that the truly talented managers and leaders are now going to be sought after, boards and directors are going to realize that good things will take time, and that yacht sponsorships and celebrity partnerships will not pay the milk bill when wages are due.

The Wyvern Manufacture

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

This is a bit of a departure from Brellum's signature line of chronographs.  The Wyvern offers hours, minutes, seconds.  But as with everything else from Brellum so far, there is an extra "what's it", and in this case it is a power display in the lower right-hand quadrant of the dial.

It will be available in two dial versions.   It features a white dial with gold indices and hands (above), and is available in a limited series of 23 pieces total.

Courtesy of Brellum

The other dial version is an anthracite model(above), which is also limited to 23 pieces worldwide.  

As the name implies, the movement is not a standard, off the shelf solution.  Here is how the folks at Brellum described it, in their own words -

The heart of the Brellum Wyvern Manufacture, the BR-18 manual wound movement features a double barrels, more than 5 days power reserve and is Officially Chronometer Certified by the COSC. It indicates Hours, Minutes, Seconds and Power Reserve. The case equipped a domed sapphire crystal on the top and on the back which allows the splendid decorated and assembled by hand BR-18 movement to be admired. 

The case is of stainless steel, and measures 42.5 mm in diameter.

The Wyvern Manufacture is available direct from Brellum for
CHF 3'990.00

Here are the pertinents, direct from Brellum -

MOVEMENT:

Caliber	Manufactured caliber BR-18 5days, manual wound and double barrel
Certification	Officially Chronometer Certified by the COSC
Decorations	Rose gold 5N coated movement, decorated with perlage, matte Opaline balance bridge, hand polished bridges, horizontal Côte de Genève and polished screws, numbered from 01/23 to 23/23
Power reserve	5 days power reserve (120 Hours)
Chronograph	no
Alternance	28'800 A/h, 4Hz
Ruby	34 jewels
Functions	Hours, Minutes, Second and Power Reserve indicator

 
CASE:

Material	Stainless Steel 316L, DIN 1.4435
Crystal	Sapphire crystal BOX type both sides with anti-reflexion treatment
Case back	Numbered exhibition case back with box sapphire crystal
Water resistance	100m/10AMT

 
 

The Pandial Black DLC Chronometer

From Brellum -

Courtesy of Brellum

This new version of the Pandial is available in two dial options, black (above), and silver (below) with contrasting sub dials.

Courtesy of Brellum

The case is of stainless steel and is treated with black DLC (diamond like coating), measuring 43 mm in diameter with a height of 11.70 mm.

Under the hood, the Valjoux 7750 keeps the time, and as with every Brellum, it is COSC certified.  

Attractively priced at CHF 2,405, and available directly from Brellum.

Here are the pertinents -

Movement 
Caliber -
Brellum BR-750 - 1 Chronometer automatic (base Valjoux 7750)
Chronometer, Officially certified by the COSC
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, telemeter and tachymeter scale.

Case
43 mm stainless steel 316L , black DLC coating.  11.70 thick.  Box type anti-reflective sapphire crystal.  Domed dial indicating hours, minutes, chronograph.  Water resistant to 50 meters.  
 

That's What Makes a Horserace

So as I continue to wear and enjoy the benefits of the NOWA connected watch, I just received the latest release from Montblanc, and to be honest, I think we have now reached a point where we have over-thought, over-developed, and dare I say it - over-engineered the idea of a watch.

Courtesy of Montblanc

My memaw Theo had an expression about differences of opinion, and how to voice an opinion without really voicing it (and hopefully avoid offending those in the opposite camp).

I am of a few minds when it comes to Montblanc and their watches.  I am in a weird place about it personally, because I count a guy who in many ways really blazed the trail for their watch making division  as a personal friend.  And hence I know what has gone into the real creation of Montblanc.  And although I have been somewhat guilty of it in the past, I recently find that I no longer feel that a company or brand must "stay in its lane".  In many ways Montblanc has done a great deal to grow beyond just pens.  And I am currently saving up for this item to shepherd Tempus Fugit and New Romantics communications and dossiers -

Courtesy of Montblanc

So to be very clear, I think that Montblanc does have a very cool product selection, and has elegantly grown to a more expansive luxury brand.

Having said that, this particular venture with a smart watch has perhaps outgrown the original idea.  

Courtesy of Montblanc

At the heart of the idea of a smart watch, is the idea that it will give us vital information that might make our lives easier, or help us live better.  Ways that a connected or smart watch can do this?  Different time zones, GPS tracking systems that can be used for children or senior citizens, alarms, notifications of important messages, sleep tracking or steps (i.e. physical activity).  

But somewhere after the Apple Watch made its debut, there seemed to be a belief that your watch should be able to do everything except (perhaps) make toast and coffee.

Now coffee for me is a very important part of every day life.  Coffee, in many ways, is a personal ritual.  It is also a social connector.  So I was a bit curious as to why I would need a smart / connected watch to tell me that I have had too much coffee?  Now, if there was an app in the phone that could ping me when I am in range of an awesome cafe?  Now that I would pay for ; )

I guess my point is this, it is now, perhaps, too much information that we are trying to funnel through such a small portal.  It is not a practical way to gather, store and disseminate.  And to manage all of these functions in a meaningful way?  It's going to take away (not add) several hours a week to your free time.  Technology that is designed to improve your life should do just that.  At this point, I have to question whether we have now over-shot the runway.

Finally, it is expensive for an item (like a cell phone) that has obsolescence already factored into its lifespan.  $995 US.  This is not a watch that you will hand down to others.  It will have a lifespan, then it will be consigned to landfill.  And this is not unique to Montblanc, Tag, or Apple.  It is just the reality of this type of watch.

But as always, here are the pertinents straight from the source, and you can judge for yourself -

#StayAhead With Summit 2: Montblanc Redefines Connected Elegance With Its New Smartwatch

• Bridging fine watchmaking and state-of-the-art technology
• Brand new 42mm case designed for both men and women includes the new Qualcomm
  Snapdragon Wear 3100 chipset and exciting new features
• Summit 2 is the ultimate wearable built for work, leisure, fitness or travel, accompanying today’s
  achievers through their everyday adventures
• Includes the new Timeshifter® app and watch face – an effective way to reduce jet lag
  Named after its ambition to be a wearable companion that keeps its owner ahead in all aspects of life, Summit 2 is a new digital interpretation of fine watchmaking that seamlessly brings together the Swiss design codes of traditional timepieces, premium materials and brand-new technology. First launched in 2017 as luxury smartwatch with a distinctively classic and vintage look, the latest edition of Montblanc’s signature smartwatch features a more compact unisex 42mm case size that delivers the feeling of a mechanical watch on its owner’s wrist while offering innovative new features. Powered by advanced technologies on the market, Summit 2 is the first luxury smartwatch to feature the Snapdragon Wear 3100 chipset by Qualcommfor enhanced performance, improved battery life and a weeklong time-only mode. The latest Wear OS by Google powers Summit 2 with iOS and Android smartphones.

“Built for travel, fitness or exploration, Summit 2 is a versatile companion created for urban explorers, business travellers and performance seekers looking to push boundaries in everything they do,” explains Nicolas Baretzki, Montblanc CEO. “These high achieving individuals want to be connected at all times with easy access to functional features and apps that allow them to always stay ahead and be productive on-the-go, while still enjoying the experience of wearing a fine timepiece. Whether work, leisure, fitness or travel, Summit 2 is built to seamlessly power them through their everyday adventures stylishly and reliably.”
Inspired by the design codes of the Montblanc 1858 collection, the new iteration of Summit offers several design expressions, from the classic elegance of 1858 and the vintage sophistication of the Summit, from the feminine allure of Bohème Date and Bohème Classic variations to the sporty Energy and Fitness styles designed for peak performance and physical activity.
With the built-in watch face configurator, over a thousand watch face combinations are possible by customizing indicators, background, hands and complications.
The different case finishes – black DLC steel, stainless steel, bicolour steel and titanium Grade 2 – can be combined with 11 different interchangeable strap options including calfskin, Milanese steel, rubber sport and nylon, to create a total of over 70,000 individual looks across the Summit 2 assortment. Each timepiece is fitted with a rotating crown and two additional programmable pushers.

Montblanc Summit 2 | New Technologies

A Companion for Urban Exploration

• With the help of the Google Assistant, users will get proactive, personalized assistance like their flight status or upcoming reservations. They can also use the watch's microphone, to ask for help or get directions or translations. The Google Assistant can also manage tasks like setting reminders or checking your heart rate.
• All notifications – including incoming calls, messages, social media updates, calendar events, news and more - are directly synced to the Montblanc Summit 2 from a smartphone. When there isn’t time to start typing a reply on the smartphone, the Montblanc Summit 2 offers built-in smart replies and other quick ways to respond with handwriting, keyboard or voice dictation.
• The always-on colour ambient mode allows for the watch faces to be visible at all times, while delivering a full day of battery life running Wear OS by Google. The battery life can be extended by an additional 3 - 5 days by deactivating smartwatch functionality while still showing the time at a flick of the wrist.
  Making Travel A Seamless Adventure

• Summit 2’s exclusive travel functions include the new Timeshifter® app and watch face, providing personalized advice to minimize jet lag based on the traveller’s sleep pattern, chronotype, and flight plan. Used by astronauts and elite athletes, and based on the latest in sleep and circadian neuroscience, Timeshifter provides timely updates and instructions directly on the Summit 2 watch face, helping travellers to adjust fast to a new time zone.
• The new Montblanc exclusive Travel Info app provides relevant local traveller information.
• The practical voice-activated translator gives its user direct translations from a multitude of languages directly to the watch’s display, making travelling in foreign countries simpler than ever.

• With the addition of Google Pay, meals, tickets and new experiences can be purchased in a fast easy way, without cash.
Reaching New Heights of Fitness

• Achieving peak physical performance is a key function of Summit 2. The exclusive Montblanc Running Coach app, powered by scientific insight from the Firstbeat* analytics engine, enables runners to track fitness levels (based on VO2max) and specify a fitness goal which translates into a personalized training plan built around ideal efforts and recovery times.
• The integrated live coach provides the right pace and intensity level during training to help users reach their fitness goals.
• Summit 2 features an improved Heart Rate Algorithm and 5 ATM water-resistance making it resilient to swimming. The integrated GPS allows navigation and more precise fitness tracking when away from the phone.
  *Firstbeat is a registered trademark of Firstbeat Technologies Oy
  Summit 2 is available from October 15th 2018. For further information, visit
  www.montblanc.com/Summit2

The Panda Bleu

From Czapek -

Courtesy of Czapek

This will be offered exclusively through Oster in Denver through the end of this year, and my understanding is a wider release will follow in 2019.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -
 
FUNCTIONS
Chronograph, Hours, Minutes & Seconds
Chronograph's Minutes at 3 o'clock
Chronograph's Hours at 9 o'clock
Small seconds at 6 o'clock
Date at 6 o'clock

MOVEMENT
Caliber SXH3: Haute Horlogerie integrated automatic Chronograph movement with a bespoke execution
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 5 Hz - 36'000 VpH
Column Wheel, Vertical Clutch and Linear Hammer
Golden Rotor with Czapek logo
Diameter: 30mm -13 lines 1/4
Height: 6.95mm
Finish: finely sandblasted and diamond polished anthracite bridges, snailed trottoirs
 
CASE & BRACELET
41.5mm Stainless Steel Case
Sapphire crystal Glass-Box with anti-reflective treatment
Sapphire case back with Anti-reflective treatment on the inner side.
Water Resistance: 50m
Rubber Strap with a steel
deploying buckle
 
DIAL
Handcrafted Guilloché "Résonance" bombé dial in AuPtPdAg
Baton applied indexes with Super Luminova treatment
12 in Arabic numeral with Super Luminova treatment

HANDS
Czapek Modern Rodhium plated steel hands
Hour & Minutes hands with
Super Luminova treatment
Small second hand with red tip

Exit Visas are Imminent

In the ongoing game of musical chairs, the warm 'n fuzzy people at the SIHH in partnership with Breitling have jammed their thumb in the BaselWorld organizers' eye -

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie welcomes Breitling as a new partner brand

What's in a name?  Haute is a funny word, it is used and misunderstood by a lot of people.  In the context of "Horlogerie" it is, apparently, as malleable as a rogue sales director's moral compass.  
 
In the interest of full-disclosure, I did not study French in school.  But with the help of St. Google, I was able to get this definition of haute, courtesy of our good friends at the Urban Dictionary and Betty Harvard -

haute

Haute means "high" in French. It is pronounced "hote", NOT "hot". It is used most commonly with the word "Couture" (pronounced catore) which means "fashion" in French. Thus, Haute Couture means High Fashion.
It does not, however, mean hawt, hot, sexy, whatever. People who use haute in place of those words are idiots who seriously need to read the REAL dictionary instead of urbandictionary.com.

 

That Vivienne Westwood trench is so haute couture.

by Betty Harvard September 01, 2005

Please forgive me while I stifle a snicker,  Breitling has made it very clear that they are going to lower priced models.  Baume & Mercier produce watches at a price and finish level that are clearly not in the "haute" category, but make one or two show ponies a year, and, well, they are a Richemont brand, so I guess they get a pass.  There is nothing wrong with this, but when I consider the particularly snotty attitude of the SIHH organizers (read Richemont and their party planners at the US firm retained to send invitations), I find this particularly comical.  On the one hand, the SIHH would have you believe that they are far more inclusive and that they are creating a better fair that offers far more exposure for journalists and the public than BaselWorld.  On the other hand?  Bullshit.  The SIHH is designed and conducted in a manner to ensure that those who wish to attend will have to pass through a vetting process that is more restrictive than any Ivy League secret society.   And the public?  You've got one day watch fans!  Make the most of it!

So if you are drinking coffee, put it down so that you don't snort that dark, hot beverage through your nostrils and expel it onto your jammies.

Here's the release, just as it came across the wire yesterday -

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie welcomes Breitling as a new partner brand

Synonymous with precision and innovation, Breitling is the 43rd brand to join the FHH in its mission to promote excellence in watchmaking.

Geneva, October 16, 2018 – Having welcomed 13 new brands in 2017, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie continues to grow with the arrival of Breitling, a storied name in traditional watchmaking, established in Saint-Imier in 1884, as its 43rd partner-brand.

Since 2005, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) has pursued its mission to promote Fine Watchmaking worldwide. Supported by its partners - highly regarded figures in traditional watchmaking and representatives of contemporary watchmaking - the FHH has successfully developed its activities to inform, train and organise events for both professionals and the public. Thanks to these common values and shared ambitions, the FHH has established itself as a respected voice, able to promote the authenticity and legitimacy of excellence in watchmaking. As a brand recognised for its history, creativity, expertise and innovation, Breitling is embedded in this unique environment.

From the opening by Léon Breitling of a modest workshop in Saint-Imier, in 1884, to the modern Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds we know today, Breitling has consistently stood out for its fabulous capacity to innovate, and its forward-looking mindset. It quickly made a name with a timer/tachymeter that measured speed. In 1915, Breitling also became one of the world’s first manufacturers to present a wrist chronograph with a separate pusher above the watch crown.

In 1934, Willy Breitling, the third generation to run the family business, unveiled an essential invention: a second separate pushpiece, exclusively dedicated to resetting the chronograph to zero. This patented feature was the final touch in giving the wrist chronograph its modern face.

Its involvement with flight began in the late 1930s, as aviation came of age, and the brand has continued to lead the field with chronographs whose fabulous precision still makes them the choice of pilots worldwide. Since 1952, the Navitimer – whose signature circular slide rule can be used to perform some twenty essential calculations and conversions while airborne – has confirmed Breitling as a reference in aviation. From the land and the sky to the ocean's depths, dive watches are another area in which Breitling excels, with expertise that goes back to 1957 and the launch of the SuperOcean, water-resistant to 200 metres. Not forgetting the brand's role in the conquest of space, as the maker of the first Swiss chronograph to go into orbit, worn by the astronaut Scott Carpenter in 1962.

Synonymous with mechanical exploits and a symbol of chronometric precision, throughout its long history, Breitling has championed values of excellence, and has taken its heritage and capacity for innovation to the highest summits. This is an ambition shared by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which takes immense pleasure in welcoming this esteemed Manufacture among its partner-brands.

In the bigger picture? Most likely Breitling will uncouple itself from BaselWorld in 2020. My best guess is that the contract for BaselWorld 2019 has been signed and needs to be concluded, but it seems likely they will be moving south in the following years.
 

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle

Maurice Lacroix has joined the small group of kaputtniks who have opted not to participate in a traditional, large fair this year.

Again, my gut is telling me that this is not a reaction to what they may (or may not) feel is a poorly run fair.  Maurice Lacroix always had a good sized booth, and "drinky-night" was every night.  But I also know that sales have been iffy for some time, a few different heads of North American sales & distribution have been through the turnstile, and DKSH (their parent company) had been looking to offload them along with Glycine for quite some time.  Sort of like the local appliance store's "semi-annual" going out of business sale, only trying to sell a brand worth (according to the sellers) a whole bunch of money.

Unlike some of the other commentators out there who have been quoted with such bon mots as:

"If I don't get business class and a 4 star room IN BASEL?  I'm not going!"

Well, some of us are not quite so precious, so unless we get down to 10 brands in hall 1, I will certainly be there.

There are going to be brands who bow out - and if I am being blunt, these are brands that had a LOT of opportunities to make economies elsewhere (say, not sponsoring that yacht, for example), but refused to do it.  And now it's time to pay the piper. 

And for those who are believing the pundits who are crowing about increased export numbers and how that MUST mean that sales are up?  Walk into a Tourneau, or pretty much any other watch retailer.  Sales do not match the exports, which means the exports will continue to prop-up the grey market, which means that Touch of Modern will continue to do a brisk trade, which means that retailers will continue to feel the pinch, which means that they will look to other, smaller and/or unique brands to gain back customer share.  Which seems only fair as the big dogs are kind of sticking it to them right now.

So we shall see, but not to worry, there are plenty of other brands out there ready to take some space in BaselWorld.

Searching for Severin

Contrary to what some of my not-so-collegial colleagues would have you believe, I truly hate seeing people and companies fail.  But the news about Corum withdrawing from BaselWorld has deeper implications than many people want to consider.  While I realize that they are (at least on paper) separate entities, the fates of Corum and Eterna are now intimately intertwined.  And the current state of affairs at Eterna is (to be diplomatic) not great.  And that is simply on the watch front.  

The other, more concerning aspect is the fate of Eterna Movements.  The word around the campfire is that after some "away time", and a few tentative moves forward had been made Eterna and the Eterna Movements might do a "JEANRICHARD".  The "sleeping beauty" strategy is starting to become a somewhat worrying trend.  We often think back wistfully of similar "Prince Charming" happy endings in the 80s, where the plucky young entrepreneur gently kissed the slumbering watch brand, bringing it back to life, while Jim Kerr (Simple Minds) gently crooned in the background.  But I don't think that Jean-Claude Biver is going to be donning a Polo shirt and bomber jacket, regenerate a wedge hair style (complete with perma-gel) and ride in on his moped to save the day any time soon.  Because those (Blancpain and others) were brands that had been beaten, lay down their hands at the table and walked away.  They did not exist any longer.  But Corum and Eterna?  These are brands that have now passed through several sets of hands before landing at City Champ.  And the sense that many of us are getting is that City Champ can wait it out hoping for their own Prince Charming to come in and buy them out of the current quagmire.  

And as I often say when acting as a mediator in my dispute resolution practice - we didn't get here overnight.  This didn't just happen.  This is a series of decisions - some good, some clearly bad, that have led to the situation these brands are now in.  And I turn back again to that (seemingly) crazy guy who took a fairly basic idea, priced it at an appealing level, and brought Corum back to life.  The Bubble that caught everyone's imagination was not a $5,000 watch.  It was much more attainable.  And it sold.  I realize that Corum is much more than the Bubble, but the Bubble is somewhat emblematic about the dysfunction in the decision making paradigm.  The belief that Corum must be priced at very high levels in relation to what the other brands are selling for, has put them in a bit of an unworkable corner.  The result?  Too many SKUs languishing, unsold.  Severin Wunderman was unique in that although he was rich, successful, and in later years lived a lifestyle many would be envious of, he understood what people wanted.  And he also understood pricing.

Two things -

One - I don't claim to have any special "insider" knowledge about the current situation at any of these brands, and I have been wrong before.  But I also can read the tea leaves well enough to know that when news stops flowing, new models cease being released, shows are cancelled... let's just say it raises more questions than it answers.

Two - Running a watch brand is hard, hard work.  Watch enthusiasts all think that they can do it, and do it better than the people doing it.  We are, of course, wrong.  Having said that, the watch industry is also an incredibly forgiving industry which tends to attract people with a certain degree of moral flexibility, where people are promoted, fail, crash, and come back reborn multiple times.  And it is not to say that people don't deserve second (or third, fourth and fifth) chances.  It is to say that when you continue to pursue the same path, strategy, philosophy even though it has failed repeatedly, then perhaps you need to rethink the entire premise of how you do business.

If I were City Champ?  Well, if the stories are to be believed, they have plenty of cash.  They do not need for their Swiss investments to start shitting Tiffany cufflinks right away.  On the other hand, they are not stupid.  The smart play would be to simply not put any more money into either of these brands until they can either straighten themselves out, or find a buyer who is looking for a hobby to dump his/her millions into.  

We all wanted something better for Corum and Eterna, and you never know, there could indeed be a happy ending out there.  So get your hair gel out, and bust out that soundtrack to Sixteen Candles!

Movember

From Oris -

Courtesy of Oris

As this is a charitable cause, I will let the folks at Oris tell it in their own words -

Oris is extremely proud to work with independent men’s health charity Movember and to support its Movember moustache-growing fundraising initiative. The second watch produced in support of the charity’s mission is based on the iconic Oris Big Crown Pointer Date. Help us as we look to raise funds for the charity’s vital work. Grow a Mo. Wear the watch. And feel good.

Here are the pertinents -

• Reference 01 754 7741 4037-Set LS
• Case Oris Big Crown, 40.00 mm, 1.575 inches, Stainless steel
• Movement Automatic winding pointer date developed by Oris
• Dial Black
• Strap/Bracelet Leather

Overtime with the NOWA Shaper Blue Matter

Courtesy of NOWA

So I've gone well-past overtime with my review of the NOWA Shaper Blue Matter, but as I learned the hard way with reviewing both the Withings, and more frustratingly the Kronaby connected watches, you have to really see how a connected watch performs over a longer time frame.  The prior two disappointed on several levels in terms of functions actually working following the review period.

So it goes without saying that I was a bit skeptical about yet another connected watch delivering on what was promised.  Suffice it to say, NOWA was facing an uphill battle on convincing me.

The NOWA packaging is pretty basic - cardboard box with instruction manual.  That's all.

One key differentiator for NOWA is design.  To produce a connected watch that actually looks good.  And in terms of design?  It's a winner -

A very clean, minimal design.  And this already points to a certain fallacy perpetrated by some of the other brands.  They have tried to jam several functions into a watch, slapped in various push buttons, and fairly thick cases.  Not so with NOWA -

 

Courtesy of NOWA

The case itself is 9.75 mm thick.  In comparison the NOMOS Orion neomatik is 9.4 mm.  

The fit and feel of the NOWA was great. Although the diameter is 40 mm in diameter, owing to the flatter, thinner case height, it fits nicely.

The lug width is 20 mm in diameter, and the lugs are proportional, not massive, not "tinny", but to quote Goldilocks, they are just right.

The strap is a very soft, extremely comfortable leather.  Fairly basic, but absolutely in keeping with the aesthetics of the watch.

Quick release spring bars are used, allowing easy swapping of straps.

A nice, simple claps secures the watch to the wrist -

 
The case back has a somewhat raised back, but this does not impact the comfort in wearing the watch.

You will note that there was some very slight scratching on the central portion.  It is worth noting that this area has a high polish finish, making it more susceptible to light scratching when writers are less than gentle.  The main backside of the case is a matte finish, with the bezel, crown and lug tops being polished.

So let's ask that awkward question - how was the functionality?
Spoiler alert - it absolutely delivered on every function as promised.  Unlike Kronaby where you select from a menu of different functions, the folks at NOWA selected a specific set of functions that they felt most people would want, and opted not to try and offer everything.  Per NOWA, the features are:

BLUETOOTH LOW ENERGY

Connect wirelessly to your Smartphone.

This is particularly useful as it ensures longer battery life, and you will not need to charge your watch overnight.

 

WORLD TIME UPDATES

Gives you exact time anywhere in the world

Works, I used it when traveling to Tokyo earlier in September.

 

ACTIVITY TRACKING

Daily record of your steps, distance, calories burned

Works, I need to walk a bit more.

 

SLEEP MONITORING

Sleep duration, Sleep quality (Deep, light)

Works, I need to get more sleep.

 

SMART CONTROLS

Reject call, Find my phone, Camera control

Works, I particularly like the camera function with the "wrist shake" option.  Quite literally you shake your wrist gently and your smart phone will take the picture.

 

FITNESS CLOUD

Connect to Health Kit and Google Fit

Can't personally comment on it. 

 

I'll be concluding this tomorrow, stay tuned!

Wempe and NOMOS are Kaputt

So you've probably read it elsewhere, but I thought I'd give it to you with a little bit of commentary.

Wempe have dropped the bomb and NOMOS will no longer be carried there.  Wempe's contention, and a fair one, is that they have worked pretty hard (and for a pretty long time) with NOMOS, several now iconic and sought-after limited editions.  Both sides have put in time and effort.  But it is also safe to say that nothing is forever, and here is the proof.

The key reasons cited by Wempe include:

A.  Chrono 24 for factory authorized refurbished watches
B.  Chronext for factory authorized new watches

In essence, too much availability online, an abandonment of what made the brand special.  And a big part of what made the brand special was that you couldn't get it just anywhere.  

On the one hand, it would be more than fair for NOMOS to say that this is the way it is, sorry if you don't like it (which it appears that they did).  

But on the other hand, NOMOS is not exactly bursting in multiple retail locations, particularly here in North America.  Moreover, a lot of these locations are not exactly red-hot, and when you multiply that by the "chain" reality - Tourneau, for example, it gets dicier.  
Again, I live and work near two retail outposts for NOMOS and they are not exactly "jumping" at the moment.

It's interesting, because a lot of these realities were already existing before Wempe decided to throw in the towel.  NOMOS has had their own online distribution for several years, and at least here in the US they have been sold through Watch Buys for quite some time in addition to all of the other retail stores they have/have had.  And with the weird church and state mash-up that is the Hodinkee media (we'll tell you what to buy) retail (and then we'll sell it to you) model it is safe to say that the way watches are bought and sold continues (and will continue) to evolve and change.  Sometimes for the better, and sometimes for the worse.

Having said that, it also underscores a key word which I do feel gets lost, misplaced, and leveraged from time to time -
Partnership.  A partnership implies that two (or more) entities are working together towards a mutually beneficial outcome.  And what that used to mean is that a brand and a retail partner would work together to make good things happen.  Co-op advertising, in-store brand events and promotions, etc.  But some interesting things happened right around 2008.  A few retailers started to display what can only be described as extreme avarice.  Their feeling was that they were spending time and money to promote a brand and, damn it, they deserved a better, bigger slice of the pie.  Now what at least two of these retailers that I know of personally failed to mention in their hand-wringing tirade was this - they were actively discounting the watches by 30% off of the suggested retail price.  So it created a perfect storm.  Brands needed the retail outlets, and the retail outlets needed product.  But the retail outlets now said things like -
"sure, we'll carry your watches, but we won't pay for them.  At least not until after we sell them!"  And thus the golden age of memo was born.  

Memo.  I've written about it before, but in case you missed it, here is a basic outline:

1.  Brand is very, very anxious to be in retail store X.  Retail store X is well known in a major metro area and turns a LOT of product. 

2.  X agrees to take the watches, but they won't pay for it.  But don't worry, they will pay you after they sell them.

3.  Not really.  They will not tell you that they sold something.  You will have to send someone to count all of the watches in their safe, provide proof that they have, in fact, sold the watches, provide an invoice, and....

WAIT

You will be extremely lucky if you are paid within 90 days.

And that is pretty much where we find ourselves now.  

So the bigger question really becomes, how can a brand afford to be in a retail store in the first place?

But let's look at it from the other side -

1.  The store commits showcase space, training for staff, and local advertising budget.  In the case of a bigger brand, particularly one from the groups, the store will have to commit to a 30/30/30 schedule of payments.  Keep in mind, many retail partners will avoid payment as long as they can.  In some situations this is understandable - they have payroll, expenses, etc.  

2.  The store frequently will have the customer coming in for exactly the one watch that they do not have.  As the store, you get a very quick understanding as to just how valuable you really are to the brand.

3.  You will frequently be undercut by your friendly (and not so friendly) competitors not only in your backyard, but around the country.

The situation with Wempe and NOMOS is really not unique, it happens every day around the world.  But when you see a partnership of that many years thrown out so readily?  It tells you that things have changed.  Whether it is for the better, or for the worse?

That remains to be seen.  

But one last thing that I think NOMOS and other brands don't realize is that they have taken the problems with retail, and transferred them to a different format.  Because the realities of the game have not changed - there are only so many watch customers out there.  So regardless of what medium you are selling the watches - brick and mortar or online, if you over saturate the market, you will be in exactly the same predicament, just in a different format.