"Allow Me To Retort... "

So the communications team at Baselworld has offered a response of sorts to the Swatch Group departure.  And having read it, I am even more confused than before as to just what, exactly, Baselworld will look like next March.

Below is the text as I received it, my comments in blue -

BASELWORLD 2019 WITH NUMEROUS NEW IDEAS AND FORMATS 

Regret over Swatch Group’s decision to stay away –
Other big Swiss watch brands have confirmed their intention to participate
Well, at least in the very brief time frame between Sunday and Monday ; )

BASEL, SWITZERLAND, 30 JULY 2018 – Baselworld, the world’s most important trade show for watches, jewellery and gemstones, announces numerous innovations for 2019. The show’s organizers responded with regret to Swatch Group’s announcement of its intention to stay away from Baselworld 2019, but the show’s management contradicted the representation published yesterday in the Sunday edition of the NZZ, which claimed that the exhibitors had not been notified about the new concept. 
Brief editorial note - why in the name of all that is good and holy does an organization craft a press release where they speak about themselves in the third person?  It's like listening to a professional athlete or a certain serial watch brand CEO - "Yes, (insert my own name here) is all about hard work and share-holder value!"

René Kamm, CEO of MCH Group, says: “We extraordinarily regret Swatch Group’s decision. The cancellation is all the more surprising for us because this news reaches us at a point in time when new management has arrived with a new team, new esprit and many new ideas.” 
Translation?  "This is not our fault!  We shit-canned the last person (finally) and we've only just started!"  Which, if I'm honest, doesn't ring true.  Baselworld was back in March, and August is now knocking on the door.  That is nearly half a year.  Also, it is poor form to throw your predecessor under the bus.  You are the captain of the ship now, stop talking and start walking.

Innovative Communications Strategy, Improvement in the Hospitality Concept
Michel Loris-Melikoff, who became Baselworld’s new Managing Director on 1 July 2018, likewise confirmed that the transformation of Baselworld from an order platform to an attractive marketing, communications and events platform will be prioritized in 2019. Loris-Melikoff says: “Numerous new formats and ideas will be presented and implemented.” The event focuses on Hall 1 in 2019. The highlights from Les Atéliers, i.e. the best creations by independent watchmakers, will be presented in Hall 1.0 South, which was not used last year. Hall 1.1 will be the venue for “The Loop”, an area which will present an exhibition about the art of watchmaking (“Métiers des Horlogers”). A diverse selection of catering options, ranging from takeaway to an exclusive three-star restaurant, will be available for exhibitors and visitors. The catering areas thus move from the show’s periphery to its centre. Another highlight is the new “Show Plaza” in Hall 1.2, which will bring together the best jewellery manufacturers. A spectacular 240° catwalk with numerous LED screens makes it possible to stage jewellery in totally innovative ways. Loris-Melikoff explains: “This area will also be used for a wholly revised press day and a Retailer Summit, which takes place for the first time.”

Catering options?!?  So, instead of dashing across the street for a $12 sausage, I can stay in the hall (no fresh air or sunshine) and give the fair organizers $15 for the same thing?  Guys, give me a break!  The frustrations over Baselworld have SO VERY LITTLE to do with the lack of a three star restaurant right in the middle of the hall.  Also, no offense, but the majority of us heading to the fair are NOT in the general public.  An "exhibit" of the art and history of watchmaking is exactly NOT what I am spending a few thousand dollars and one week of my vacation time to cover.  The majority of us go to Baselworld for a few specific reasons:
1.  See the new releases so that we can either write about them or order them.
2.  Meet with brands and brand representatives so that we can do some business (sales, marketing, PR, advertising).
3.  The social aspect - many of us have rather demanding day jobs and, well, lives.  We cannot drop everything several times a year to go to events, galas, and PR dog and pony shows.  Baselworld offers the one opportunity to get a lot done in a short amount of time.

The promise of an "attractive marketing, communications and events platform" is only serving to underscore the misunderstanding of the fair organizers as to where the value is for the brands, the journalists and that little group that essentially provides the main engine for this annual shindig - the retailers ; )

SWATCH group has more than enough money to conduct their own marketing, communications and events.  In fact, they already do this.  They have their own cafe at the fair, so the promise of extended catering ideas is not exactly sweetening the deal.

Loris-Melikoff also announced intensive discussions with representatives of Basel’s hotel and restaurant industry, with the goal of achieving constructive solutions. The objective is to draw up and sign a “Charta” with partner hotels to guarantee a reasonable price level. In return, Baselworld would recommend the hotels as the show’s partners.

Yeah, I'm sure that's going to produce results...
"So, we know that Baselworld is your busiest time of the year, you know, when you make most of your money.  We know you're always sold out and that watch brand owners and managers put their kids on the waiting list at birth for a Baselworld room... but we were thinking that you could cut your prices during the fair back to normal, everyday levels, and in exchange we will recommend your hotel!"  And maybe they could convince Mr. Hayek to adjust the prices of Omega sport watches to more realistic levels while their at it ; )
Sorry, too soon?
The fair in and of itself will not make that happen.  Look no further than the Hyperion or the boats if you doubt me.  

A new communications strategy, which works with innovative digital formats and offers the brands a year- round stage for their products, will also be implemented. The chatbot, which was introduced in the 2018 edition and brings all relevant information directly to the user’s mobile telephone via messaging services, will be expanded to include services such as ticketing and navigation and will also be extended onto WeChat for the Asian audience. 
So, in addition to all of the Facebook, Linkedin, What's App, email, texts and phone calls that blow up my iPhone during BaselWeek, you want me to add MORE?  Guys, the issue is not that the information isn't available.  But I will suggest that maybe, just maybe you send press releases that cover a bit more than the big groups.  I SOOOOO don't care about Hamilton, Mido and several others.  I have no doubt you feel the need to keep brands happy, but consider some of the smaller brands that spend (for them at least) a good chunk of change to participate, even when they are stuck in the "hinterlands" of the fair halls.  They have stuck with you, they deserve better.  In your news blasts, show these brands that you actually, I don't know, care about them too.  You never know, you might need them more than you think ; )

The New Concept Was Presented to All Committees
Simultaneously, Loris-Melikoff contradicted the representation published in the NZZ, which claimed that the new concept had been implemented without prior coordination with Baselworld’s exhibitors. Baselworld’s management regularly meets with a national and with an international exhibitors’ committee. A collection of ideas was already presented to the Comité Consultatif in early May and the rough concept was presented to the representatives of the Swiss exhibitors at the end of June; the latter concept was then introduced to the Comité Mondial on 4 July. A high-ranking manager from Swatch Group was present at both sessions of the Comité. Loris-Melikoff adds: “Of course, I received inputs and these were accordingly taken into consideration. All of our ideas are conceived in close coordination with our exhibitors.”

Which, of course, somewhat contradicts the complaint that the new fair team had only "just started" ; )

The Other Big Swiss Watch Brands Support the New Concept
The concept was warmly received at all three sessions. “Naturally, Swatch Group’s cancellation is extremely regrettable for Baselworld. Nevertheless, we are convinced by our new concept and we will implement it together with the other key players in the industry”, Loris-Melikoff says. 
Having read some of the comments from the shot callers in the industry, I don't know if that is 100% accurate.  But I also think that if a "traffic magnet" is removed, you will be more likely to see more people, and in all honesty, they will probably do a "wait and see" for 2019.

Michel Loris-Melikoff emphasizes that the other big Swiss watch brands will also participate in Baselworld in 2019. Despite the setback which Swatch Group’s cancellation undoubtedly represents, he is undauntedly combative and will make every effort in order to achieve a strong Baselworld in 2019. Loris-Melikoff says: “We want to conduct the fair in 2019 as attractively as possible, in a new style and with a new way of thinking. With this in mind, I hope that a successful edition of Baselworld in 2019 will motivate Swatch Group to again participate in the show in the future. I personally would be very pleased to hold constructive talks with Swatch Group.” 
Language is a funny thing:
com·bat·ive

adjective

adjective: combative

ready or eager to fight; pugnacious.

See also:

pugnacious, aggressive, antagonistic, quarrelsome, argumentative, contentious, hostile, truculent, belligerent, bellicose.

Yea, I can't see how there could be such a misunderstanding as the one between the fair organizers and the SWATCH group...  

 

 

 

 

Elvis Has Left The Building... Maybe

Boy, you go to sleep the night before, you wake up and the world has gone crazy!


Unless you have spent the last several hours in an isolation chamber, you now know that Nick Hayek dropped the SWATCH bomb, and went with what American politicos term the "nuclear option".  As per too many news outlets to credit, SWATCH Group has announced that they will not be rolling out the red carpet for their retail partners, the press and the general public at BaselWorld 2019.

Now if we look at this on the surface, we can totally appreciate all of Mr. Hayek's reasoning.  The fair is way too expensive to participate in - tell me about it!  The returns don't justify the outlay, the watch making and buying world has become more transparent, yada, yada, yada...  

But there are a few things that, upon reflection, don't ring true to me.  First and foremost, harping about the cost of the building itself is nonsense.  Essentially, and I am paraphrasing here - that it is not up to the SWATCH group to help recover the cost of building the BaselWorld Halls in the first place.  Well, based on that logic, it should not be up to me, the customer, to help recoup the expenses of "maintaining" the Gerber-Crawford relationship, the massive construction project going on in Biel/Bienne, and the exorbitant rent for the New York City boutique/s with the purchase of a rather steeply priced Omega that I will likely find in the grey market at an equally steep discount a little later down the road.  So in fairness, to me this is a bit of the pot calling the kettle "less than shiny".

But if we go a little deeper, there are some other considerations.  Now on the one hand, SWATCH group posted fairly significant gains in their half year report recently.  On the front page of their half year report, SWATCH stated that "growth" in "America" had been particularly good.  Well, I can't really speak to that with anything specific, because I do not have access to the sales ledgers.  But I would point out a few key points.  For starters, SWATCH has a fully owned subsidiary in the US.  So what that means is that actual sales are a bit dicier to quantify from the outside.  The single biggest problem with trying to gain anything "knowable" from the Swiss export numbers is the realities of the new Swissness regulations - SWATCH Group and all of the other big (and small) dogs still have a shit-ton of components that were manufactured under the old standards, and they need to assemble and export them by the end of the year.  It is July 29th, which when you factor in the holidays (which essentially start in the second week of December) it's essentially four months.  Because when the clock strikes midnight, quite a few watches will turn into wrist-bound pumpkins.  So if you are running these brands, you know that by that date everything must be out of Switzerland as any of the remaining stuff can't be used anymore.  It's safe to say that this definitely leads to higher export volumes which (if we are being honest about it) don't really match up with what the real market demand is.  As a friend who knows about these things pointed out to me, Hong Kong‘s wholesale is dead but the export figures to Hong Kong continue to explode.  
Un petit mystere, nes pas?

So let me venture a few theories -

Paul is Dead

Borrowed from the world-wide infoweb

People of a certain vintage will remember this one.  It got their  attention, people were talking, until...
 

Courtesy of Life Magazine

So, maybe this is a lot of bluster.  Essentially, make the announcement, and make the BaselWorld organizers jump to the height you are requiring.  Simply put?  With the current state of the watch business, I do not think that there are sufficient numbers of deep pocketed brands to fill the vacuum that will be created by the SWATCH group's absence.  So it is possible that a spirit of détente will be reached by both sides.  Keep in mind, we still aren't even to September, if Hayek can go from a yes to no for BaselWorld, he can go back to yes again.  Stranger things have happened.

But let's say that, in Hayek's mind, to quote the Dude (The Big Lebowski) quoting President Bush (the first):

"This aggression will not stand, man."

And maybe, just maybe, he feels that there truly has been a seismic shift in the watch business.   Well, maybe yes.  But given the vast amounts of cash thrown into pr and media things for SWATCH group brands, I don't completely buy everything he is selling.  Because after everything has been said and done, while Omega can certainly manage without BaselWorld, the less glamorous brands in the group actually really need to be seen. 

My gut tells me something different (and in fairness, it is possible that my gut has shit for brains) but let me air it out for you -
I think that the reality is somewhere in the middle.  BaselWorld is crazy expensive.  If the feeling was that the fair was failing and that it's expenses couldn't be justified?  Well they would have walked away a few years ago.  But more than just the fees for participation, a big component of BaselWorld is the cost of the actual booth itself.  You budget for them, and the cost is amortized over time.  And every several years?  You build a new one (or in the case of SWATCH group - several).  Now I do not know this as gospel, but just a theory - what if the cost of the booths (yes, that is plural) has been amortized and it can go off of the books?  Well, then you have a perfect opportunity to walk away.  At least for one year ; )

Why might that be important?  Well, let's get back to that whole export / Swissness bugaboo.  The analysts would have you believe that the watch industry is experiencing a comeback of heroic proportions.  But the truth is far muddier than that.  Exports are up, but that is not necessarily a corollary to strong sales.  In many cases, this is just products being shunted out of the Swiss borders and over to subsidiaries overseas.  If and when retail stores start crowing about their record breaking sales (which in fairness, all of us would be happy to see), it is a dubious notion to talk about recovery.  So keeping that in mind, it also stands to reason that the actual number of watches departing Switzerland after December 31st might be, well, smaller.  Meaning that in order to keep shareholders and the analysts sweet, you need to find savings.  And although numbers like CHF 50 million are bandied about for expenditures during BaselWeek, I suspect that they could, in fact, be higher.  So if your sales numbers slump due to smaller production and export, you might want to find money wherever you can.

On the other hand -
You could cut some of your budgets, don't spend the amounts of money to fly people in and out, close the cafe, etc.  Savings could be found.  But that might not really be the point of all of this.

So whether this is hard hearted pragmatism, or Kabuki theater for the goofy, time will tell.

Isotope Palloncino di Perle Kickstarter

I received word about the Isotope Kickstarter campaign.
Isotope is a fairly new brand that launched a few years back. Their new watch is the Isotope Palloncino di Perle. 

Should you be so interested, the Kickstarter campaign can be found here:

ISOTOPE Kickstarter

The Palloncino di Perle will be available in three different versions:


Black 

Courtesy of Isotope

White 
 

Courtesy of Isotope

Brown

Courtesy of Isotope

Per Isotope:

The Palloncino de Perle will retail for £149 (sterling), but those participating in the Kickstarter campaign will have the opportunity to get an Isotope Palloncino di Perle for a very attractive price saving up to 40% off the retail price.


Here are the pertinents -

Palloncino de Perle Specifications:

• 38mm Original Stainless Steel case
  
• Water Resistant up to 50 Metres/5 ATM
  
• Sapphire Crystal (Scratch resistant)
  
• Sandwich dial with central balloon shape in Mother of Pearl
  
• Austrian Stone at 6 o’clock over White, Black or Brown Sunburst Dial
  
• Isotope hands with Luminova for night reading
  
• Quick Release Leather Strap with signed Butterfly Clasp
  
• Italian Mesh bracelet (available as option)
  
• Swiss Made Quartz movement (Slimtech Ronda 1069)
  
• Battery life: 25 to 34 months
  

The Julius

From Montfort -

Courtesy of Montfort

This is the latest offering from Nyon based microbrand.  

As with every Montfort, it displays an intriguing dial that has been 3D printed.  But if you look closely, there is an added little twist -

Courtesy of Montfort

You will notice that the date wheel is exposed rather than placed under the dial.  You will also note that there is no date aperture/window and there is no additional hand to indicate the date as you would see in a "date pointer" watch.  But if you look closely, just above the 9 o'clock marker, there is a small white dot.  And you will then see that the date indicated is the 25th!  In speaking with the folks at Montfort, the goal was to create something that visually looks like a super-cool complication (which it does) but that does not actually add unwanted layers of cost to produce.  Which in turn ensures that the final price to the customer will be well within reason.

Courtesy of Montfort

As with the other models from Montfort, it utilizes Super Stainless Steel, enhancing the anti-scratch properties of the watch.

The Julius will be limited to 33 pieces and is currently available for pre-order for  SFr. 1,990.00 CHF, with an anticipated shipping date of September of this year.

Here are the pertinents -


CASE: 
4 PIECE CASE IN HARDENED "SUPER STAINLESS STEEL”
SIZE: 44 MM
WATER RESISTANCE: 100M/330FT (10ATM)
CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL GLASS (TOP AND BOTTOM) WITH BLUE ANTI-REFLECTIVE COATING
DIAL: BLACK 3D PRINTED STAINLESS STEEL DIAL "LES MASSIFS 2"
HANDS: HOUR & MINUTE : SKELETON RUTHENIUM MICROBEAD WITH ‘WHITE’ LUMINOVA, SECOND: GREY GALVANISED
MOVEMENT: SWISSMADE SELLITA SW200 AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT IN BLACK GALVANIC COATING, BLUED SCREWS, "CÔTES DE GENÈVE" ON OSCILLATING MASS AND 26 RUBIES
STRAP: Calf leather strap - Croc pattern 22/20MM

Just Because You Can... Doesn't Mean You Should.

Omega is a great brand with a lot of great products.  They do a lot of wonderful work with charity.  I own two Omegas and still miss my 1969 Speedmaster Professional.  

Having said that...

Courtesy of Omega

This latest effort is a bit of a squib.

And the text provided with the images is enough to make you want to avoid any hipster that you encounter -

Thanks to its reliable design and superb anti-magnetic properties, the original OMEGA Railmaster of 1957 was perfectly suited to a role in working-class life. Today, the updated collection is proudly paying tribute to that industrial past with a new denim-inspired model.

Although they are now a fashion item, denim jeans were once manufactured purely for the benefit of hard-working laborers in the American West. For a long time, the robust cloth was the choice of miners, factory workers, farmers, and of course, those on the railroads. Their sturdy trousers or overalls would have gone hand-in-hand with the watch on their wrist.

To link the iconic material with this new Railmaster, OMEGA has created a vertically-brushed “blue jeans” dial that features indexes and hands with light-grey Super-LumiNova. There is also a beige lollipop central seconds hand and transferred Railmaster indication that are both reminiscent of the colored stitching found in denim jeans.

Most uniquely, the model is beautifully presented on a genuine blue denim NATO strap with brown leather used on the underside and for the keepers. The same model is alternatively available on a stainless-steel bracelet.

Courtesy of Omega

And if you have your heart set on this watch, I would opt for the bracelet version, you won't look like such a goof. 

The message seems to be:  "you don't have to get your hands dirty, but next time you put on your Redwing boots and "faux-vintage" Carhartt work wear, we've got just the watch for you!"  

I find it a stretch that Omega (and pretty much any other brand out there) is actually too fussed about celebrating the rugged integrity of the hard working men and women who actually performed honest toil for below-poverty-level wages.  It's fair to say that I could be wrong.  Having said that, I am pretty confident that the majority of the 30 somethings out there that this item is targeted at do not likely have just south of five grand ($4,900 suggested retail) to drop on an homage to the laborer.   They've spent all their money on student loan repayments and tragic tattoos.  And the amount of tips that baristas are making is not going to put a dent in the sticker price of this one.

I can almost hear the pitch meeting for this one now:

"Hey!  The really cool people featured in the the instafamous feeds we spend so much money on?  They all dress like hobos!"  

"Yeah, you're right!  What we need is an Omega for the trucker hat wearing, Pabst Blue Ribbon drinking, American Spirit smoking trendetarians out there!"

So does this mean that the two Crawford-Gerber ambassadors do the next Omega photo shoot dressed like Box Car Willie? 

Time will tell ; )

The New Romantics

You will notice a new section on the Tempus Fugit site - The New Romantics

It will start getting populated over the next few days, and is meant to be an additional resource for smaller, independent brands to discuss, share, promote and yes, even sell their watches.  

Now, unlike my more well-heeled (somewhat slipperier) colleagues who "painstakingly curate" "exclusive collections", the New Romantics section is something (I hope) a little more straight-forward and will not rely so heavily upon slippery language.

These are brands that are actually owned by actual people who are actually working on unique ideas.  These will be brands at several price points, and while some are more expensive than others, the concept is not about "exclusivity" or any other douchy hyperbole that some other blogs-now-retailers might spew. 

In many cases, the brands will have direct links that you, the customer can go through to make your purchase directly from the brand.  In some other instances, you will can also be directly connected to the authorized retail partner.  

Most importantly, I will be working hand in hand with the brands to assist with after service, etc.

It will be a part of Tempus Fugit, but it has it's own little home.  And this will be a "curation free" zone.  The simple criteria are:
1.  I have personally met the owners, and are the type of people I'd enjoy having a beer with (and most I have).
2.  I have personally tried the watch, strap, etc. and feel that it is a good product at a fair price.
3.  The product, whatever it may be, is interesting to me, and I hope it will be to you as well.

As mentioned before, I do work with some brands as a consultant and that will be clearly disclosed and all of those brands will be clearly identified.

Fall of the House of Macaluso

Word has trickled out over the past few days that the last remaining active family connection to to the man that pretty much willed Girard Perregaux back from the dead, has had his last day, and is moving on.  Per various social media postings, it appears that Stefano Macaluso has opted to leave the party.

For many of us, the sight of Antonio Calce's rapidly disappearing backside was a sign that things might improve.  And me personally?  I had hoped that maybe, just maybe Mr. Macaluso the younger would step forward to take a more active role.  And if I am completely honest?  I don't know that he would have necessarily done any better than the fellow who recently received his walking papers from his superiors at Kering HQ.  GP is a company that has made its bones mostly on sentiment, passion, emotion - the sort of things that can't really be explained or accounted for in a ledger.

I can only draw one conclusion.  Girard-Perregaux seems to be cursed.  There is no other way to look at it.  It is not a money issue, because there have been several rounds of cash coming in.  It is not for want of creativity, because they have plenty of that.  It is not for want of technical know-how, because it is clear that they have that in abundance.  And in some ways it is not for passion, because there have been some passionate people (at least with Mr. Sofisti, and the Macaluso family).  But sometimes, you can have everything going for you, and God, the Universe, your financial backers, fate itself decides that it just isn't going to be your year, or your decade.

But in my opinion, curses are meant to be lifted.  If the Cubs can win the World Series, if LeBron James can carry an entire city (Hell, an entire state) on his back and bring a championship that nobody ever felt or dreamed they would live to see? 

So what's next for GP?  I am not having daily phone exchanges with the Pinaults.  But at least insofar as their watch divisions go, maybe we should be, because they (or at least the people they are entrusting these watch making entities to) are making some monumentally bad decisions.  To the extent that I have to go back to the idea of a curse.  But maybe they could try something simple:

1.  Identify someone with experience who is not simply looking for their next CEO pay-grade job.  Find someone who gets it.

2.  Stop all of the bullshit.  GP IS NOT Patek.  Sorry, but it's time to put on the big boy pants and start facing realities.  Start making collections that have decent design, decent technical detail, and that will actually be purchased by actual customers.  Stop trying to solve all of your problems with a ridiculously expensive, esoteric watch that may win an award presented once a year by a panel of "experts", experts who are never going to buy one of your watches, but who will certainly be there for you so long as the "bar is open".

3.  Punch your weight.  There is an emerging middle place where GP could not only exist, but thrive.  But that will only happen if calmer heads start to prevail.

And most important?  For the love of God and all that's holy - get f'ing passionate about what you are doing!  This is a brand that people love, but GP has become about as exciting as a greyhound bus trip from Cleveland to Pittsburgh.  Why?  Because if the people running the thing aren't passionate about the watches they make and sell, why in f's sake should we be?

It's hard not to be romantic about watches, it's harder still to watch a good brand continue to trip over itself like a drunken octopus.  

You Can't Go Home Again

IKEPOD was, for a short time, one of the coolest, most talked about watches around.  I first discovered them when I was living in Finland, via Wallpaper, which was at the time a very fun magazine.
The design was unique, and it was a serious watch.  I am still searching for a Seaslug GMT Alarm model ; )

And while everyone talks about Marc Newson, a key to the original IKEPOD was Oliver Ike.  You need artistic vision, but you also need grown ups.  Oliver Ike was what made the company possible, as otherwise it would have merely been an artistic experiment.  The rise and fall of IKEPOD is, even after all these years, very regrettable.  Regrettable, but is is now starting to become a more common story.  I have spoken with Oliver more than a few times about the roller coaster ride that was IKEPOD 1.0 and remain convinced that IKEPOD could certainly have made it.  But what's past is past.

And that brings us to IKEPOD: 3.GodKnowsWhat.

The new and improved IKEPOD will be just like the original... 
not exactly.  The designs are somewhat reminiscent, but lacking the depth and execution of their namesake.  Having seen the watches on the latest IKEPOD website, I feel that at best these are homages.  And by homage, I mean just what you might think.  And if I am honest, it makes me wonder why the new owners invested the time and money in the first place, as they could have done something very similar without bothering to revive the IKEPOD name.  The watches will be quartz, and "Proudly Made in Hong Kong".  And in fairness, there is nothing wrong with that.  But what made IKEPOD special was the melding of really cool design with a mechanical watch.  I realize that I might be alone in this opinion, but I disagree with Outlet X stating something to the effect that IKEPOD is being "saved".  IKEPOD was dead, autopsied, cremated, and the ashes were spread at sea.  It's not like there were employees, a factory, a town counting on the brand to keep going.  IKEPOD was (and I suspect still is) an administration office with a designer and some investors.  And again, in fairness?  This makes them no different than several big brands whose factory you will never see - because they don't have one ; )

Sometimes, you just have to let go.  As I write this, I am reminded that I used to be young and handsome, once upon a time.

Wrapping up the Montfort Strata James - Part Two

What makes the Strata James, and Montfort special?

Well, it is actually several things.  Starting with the dial -

A close up of the dial reveals that it is, in fact, full of texture.  And holes!  Well, not exactly holes.  But what the dial of the Strata James and all of the other Strata pieces proudly displays is the result of a 3D printed dial.  Now in fairness, you could easily print 3D dials... if you simply wanted a flat, typical dial.  But that is not what the folks at Montfort were after.  There are plenty of flat dialed watches, but not too many out there with actual texture.  Add to that the challenge of making hundreds of dials that will be exactly the same?  Well, that's more than just an afternoon's worth of tinkering ; )



Long story short, Montfort partnered with the Swedish firm Digital Metal to create the dials for the Strata collection.  

The goal was to create a dial reminiscent of the birthplace of Montfort which is not exactly flat.  To this extent, the dial of the James Strata is somewhat topographic in nature.  Although you will likely never take the dial out and touch it, you can almost feel the rise and fall of it's texture with your eyes.    

Now for me (and this might just be my take on it) the dial was what really made the watch for me.  The pattern is described as "Clous de Paris".  It is extremely pleasant to look at, and wonderful to see displayed on a watch at this price point.  Montfort was also aware that this is a watch that also needs to be, well, readable!  And to that end they used an outer chapter ring with a 60 minute/second scale as well as six very prominent markers at 1, 3, 5,7, 9 and 11 o'clock.  There is nothing printed on the inner (main) dial itself, the logo and text are on the crystal, almost floating above the mountains and valleys of the dial.

Now the second innovation is the case.  It is not made from mere stainless steel.  It is, quite literally, Super Stainless Steel.  And I have to be honest, this is where my ability to adequately describe technical stuff hits the wall, so I am going to quote Montfort -

Super Stainless Steel has been developed in conjunction with AIM SA of Switzerland and Expanite A/S of Denmark. Initially developed for offshore and aerospace applications this gaseos carbo-nitriding technology is unparalleled in its flexibility, hardening performance and anti-corrosive properties.

By diffusing at low temperature both nitrogen and carbon into the surface of the material, a layer is formed with a case depth of approximately 0.04mm (0.0016 in) with a surface hardness around 1200 HV (Hardness Vickers scale). The treated steel is 8 times harder than standard steel improving drastically the resistance to scratches.

Now if you're like me, and I know some of you are, you will scratch the bejeepers out of your watches.  I have fortunately not had to put this technology to the test, but it is comforting to know it's there.

One last point I'd like to make is the finishing of the movement, most specifically the rotor -

Courtesy of Montfort

I opted to use Montfort's own photo for this as they have captured the movement much better than my own ham-fisted attempts.  The movement is the Sellita SW200, it features a black galvanic coating, blued screws and "CÔTES DE GENÈVE" on the rotor.  Is this an "in house", manufacture movement?  Of course not, and thank goodness!  Because sooner or later, you will want to get your watch serviced, and the way things are going, I will wish you good luck if you are trying to get anything other than a "standard", mass produced one taken care of without having to pay to put your watch maker's kids through private school.

And while we are on the topic of the movement, it ran very accurately with no major deviations.  I also wound very smoothly with very good crown engagement.  The screw-down crown is solid and secure without being too tight or too loose.

To sum it up, this is an intriguing watch.  Comfortable to wear, and  very versatile, you can wear it with pretty much anything.  It has some great technological advancements, offers some fun surprises and very real value at its suggested retail price point of 1,990 CHF.

For the record, here are the specs straight from the source -


CASE: 4 PIECE CASE IN HARDENED "SUPER STAINLESS STEEL”

SIZE: 44 MM

WATER RESISTANCE: 100M/330FT (10ATM)

CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL GLASS (TOP AND BOTTOM) WITH BLUE ANTI-REFLECTIVE COATING

DIAL: 3D PRINTED STAINLESS STEEL DIAL "CLOUS DE PARIS"

HANDS: HOUR & MINUTE : SKELETON RHODIUM POLISHED WITH ‘COOL GREY’ LUMINOVA, SECOND: BLUE PVD COATING

MOVEMENT: SWISSMADE SELLITA SW200 AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT IN BLACK GALVANIC COATING, BLUED SCREWS, "CÔTES DE GENÈVE" ON OSCILLATING MASS AND 26 RUBIES

STRAP: BLACK, SEMI MATTE ITALIAN LEATHER STRAP WITH BLACK STITCHING AND BLUE ‘LORICA’ LINING – 22/20MM

Wrapping up the Montfort Strata James - Part One

The past seven days have been pretty eventful - I turned fifty, France won the World Cup, and I got the opportunity to wear a watch that bears my name!

For those of you who are not yet acquainted, Montfort is a relatively new brand that currently occupies the "microbrand" space, but has the potential to grow beyond it.  

The model that was sent for review is the Montfort Strata James, which is part of the original Strata collection.  Spoiler alert, I really have enjoyed wearing this watch, and have been very impressed with its build quality, look, and wearing comfort.

Jumping straight to the "wearability" of the watch -
The case measures 44 mm in diameter, and is crafted of some pretty special stainless steel (more on that in a moment).  While the case has ample size on the horizontal, it falls into the "Goldilocks" size and fit category (at least for me) in that it is "just right".  The actual thickness of the case is much more sane -

This allows for a very pleasing wearing experience.  The temptation for a lot of watch brands is to make something "macho".
By that, I mean that a watch has to be bigger in every way, not just a large diameter, but it should sit like a hockey puck on the wrist, and the strap should be more reminiscent of something to put around your waist as opposed to something to secure a watch to your wrist.

In terms of wrist size I am, to quote Joe Walsh, "an ordinary, average guy".  The Strata James fits and wears very comfortably.

The strap is really something fun.  It is made of leather, with a stitched and padded exterior which adds an extra level of texture.

It is subtle, and it adds an extra little "whats-it".  While the exterior of the strap is leather, the interior of it is lorica.  Don't worry, no loricas were harmed in the manufacture of the strap linings ; )  

Lorica is a synthetic type of leather.  The advantage of this is that because it is synthetic, it does not have the same "rot" factor of leather, meaning that the strap will last longer.  And with a fun little twist, the interior of the strap is a different color, in this instance it is blue.  You will also notice that the strap uses quick change spring bars, which allows for easy strap changes.

The lug width is 22 mm, and the strap tapers down to 20 mm at the buckle.  The buckle itself is interesting -

It is also of stainless steel, it is structured, well shaped and ample without being excessive.  You notice anything else?  The buckle itself is not polished in the same manner as the rest of the watch case and crown.  This was not an oversight from the folks at Montfort. This was very intentional.  As yourself a question - where does the buckle of your watch strap usually sit?  Moreover, it is safe to assume that it will be coming into constant contact with tables, desks, doors, etc.  So Montfort opted to have a buckle of hardened steel without polishing.

Wait a minute, what is hardened steel?  We'll get into all of that and more when Part Two of this review goes up this evening.

Stay Tuned!


 

We Wrap up the Montfort James

Tomorrow!

Stay tuned!

The Incredible Shrinking Fair

So news has filtered its way to the North Shore, and if the rather loud whispers are to be believed, it would seem that BaselWorld will be contracting once again.  Hall 2 will be closed and for all intents and purposes, the entire fair will all be in Hall 1 in 2019.

Now for many of us who had to race back and forth between Hall 1 and Hall 2 it meant often being late, and running a very real risk of contracting second-hand lung cancer as we passed through the wall of nervous sales reps and indolent influencers doing their level best to boost tobacco sales by 23% every BaselWeek.  For us, this is not such a bad piece of news.  And if I am being very honest (if unkind) the atmosphere and "decor" of Hall 2 was often more reminiscent of the Jackson, TN Greyhound bus station than of a luxury destination -

Courtesy of roadarch.com

Having gotten off the bus at 11:45 at night at this very station, I can tell you that, well... it's pretty depressing.  

When I worked for DOXA, Hall 2 (somewhat in the right armpit of the building) was where we were located.  The advantage was that the sausage stand was a mere 45 second walk away, the disadvantages?  Too many to count.  When you are in a shitty location, people are more likely to miss their appointments, and not make any effort to reach out for a "make up".  As a rule, nobody goes to Hall 2 unless they have a reason, because the sausage stand has moved across the street.  It just isn't sexy.

And for the fair organizers?  One less building means fewer security guards to pay, lower power bills, etc.  Logistically?  Smoother, easier to deal with.  

In terms of public perception?  Not so good.  Over the last few years we have seen the fair shrink from four halls, now down to one.  The number of attendees (journalists, fans, and retailers) has drastically reduced has well.  And more and more brands have been looking for "alternative" accommodations by renting out cafes, restaurants, shops, even houses rather than drop the cash on space in any of the halls.  And my suspicion is that the powers that be might try to "adjust" pricing to reflect the "exclusivity" of being in Hall 1.  So if you were a brand that was saving some pennies by being in Hall 2, you will be paying Hall 1 prices, or you will be looking for something different.  The question then becomes, will Hall 1 be able to accommodate everyone who wants space?  Or potentially more worrisome, will the potential uptick in price encourage some of the potential tenants to skip the whole thing altogether, leaving a look and feel like a dead shopping mall?

Courtesy of Architectural Afterlife

Let us hope that the new regime in charge of organizing this shin-dig will view it as an opportunity for rebirth and reinvention.  And more than anything else, let's hope they fill the halls and support the brands, the journalists and the retailers - because that will be the true measure of a successful BaselWorld fair.

 

Speedy Tuesday 2 - Electric Boogaloo!

Courtesy of Omega

I meet a lot of people writing about watches.  And if I am very, very honest, there are a precious few that I respect, admire, and feel legitimate envy towards.  Robert-Jan Broer is one of those people.  And I am envious in a good, positive, "wish I could do that" sort of way.  

And the second iteration of the Omega Speedy Tuesday hits all of my visceral sweet-spots with a sucker punch of nostalgia-laden goodness.  

It is, as I'm sure you've already surmised, an Omega Speedmaster.  But it is much more than that.  It is also a reference to one of my all time favorite characters - Ultraman!

Courtesy of Omega

Well known Henki factoid - I lived and worked in Japan for nearly 3 years.  Not so well known Henki factoid - I was probably the only 26 year-old man wandering the streets of suburban Tokyo with an Ultraman lunch box.  My love for Ultraman ran so deep that I even had a pair of Ultraman jammies.  True story!

Courtesy of Omega

And perhaps the coolest part of the watch for me goes beyond the symbolic reference to its appearance in Return of Ultraman. What really turns my crank is the surprise that waits for darkness to appear -

Courtesy of Omega

It is, without question, the shit that killed Elvis!

If you hustle, you still might be able to get one -

https://www.omegawatches.com/speedytuesday-speedmaster-limited-edition-42mm-ultraman/

So while I realize and accept that the folks in Biel/Bienne are not sitting up nights worrying about what James Henderson thinks, I thought I'd put out this plea anyway -

More stuff like this, less Crawford family nonsense.  

Here's the release as it appeared in my in-box:

THE SPEEDMASTER LIMITED EDITION 42 MM "ULTRAMAN"

OMEGA’s 1967 “Moonwatch” has been a hit with collectors ever since it appeared in the Japanese TV show “RETURN OF ULTRAMAN.” Now, that popular chronograph has been reborn – in the form of an exclusive #SpeedyTuesday model that is limited to just 2,012 pieces. 

RETURN OF ULTRAMAN

In the early 1970s, the Japanese production team behind the “RETURN OF ULTRAMAN” TV Series picked an OMEGA Speedmaster “Moonwatch” for its monster-fighting kit. That particular model differed from most others thanks to its uniquely finished dial and orange central seconds hand, and it has been part of science-fiction history ever since.

TIME TRAVEL

The Speedmaster used in RETURN OF ULTRAMAN was exceptional due to its bright orange seconds hand. Today, that historical hand has arrived in the future, with the exact same shape and shade of orange as well as a new black stripe - which perfectly matches the suits of the show’s heroic Monster Attack Team.

ULTRAMAN APPEARS

Because Ultraman could only stay in superhero-mode for 3 minutes, OMEGA has coloured the first 3 minutes of the 3 o’clock subdial in orange. On the 9 o’clock subdial, a silhouette of Ultraman’s face can be seen. But only if you use the UV light at the end of the watch's strap changer (which is shaped like Ultraman’s Beta Capsule).

Speedy Tuesday Limited Edition "Ultraman"

311.12.42.30.01.001

7100.00 USD*

*Recommended sale price (VAT incl.)