Actually, You Can Call It A Comeback!

Today something very, very special happened in France -

Courtesy of Lip

Today, Lip unveiled a very special project that they have been working on for some time. A new watch, inspired by a historic model, utilizing a movement of original design, that is assembled and adjusted in France. 

This is the Lip T18 Original. And to quote the poet - It is THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS!

The movement's design is based on the original Lip Caliber T18. 

This is a very special piece, and will be limited to 118. 

I hope they have one left for purchase, I've already informed my "piggy bank" that it's about to lose weight as there is a certain American on the North Shore of Massachusetts who needs this in his life ; )

More to come on this in the next few days! This is really great news - A real French watch with very real French watch making tradition from one of my favorite brands in the world. 

And the T18 underscores the cooperative spirit found in Besançon. This project would not have been possible without the collaboration of some key players. But more on that next time!

Vive La Lip!

What if...it was just a Christmas goose that came a little early?

Watch Town is abuzz with another potential scoop from Miss Tweed. Per the small teaser of her article (you have to be a subscriber to read the whole thing, and I'm saving my lunch money for a new blazer), you can glean that the Sandoz Foundation perhaps has plans to sell their watch making assets. This would be no small move on their part as they have assembled quite a tidy little arsenal with dial makers, a very upscale movement manufacturer, and a soon to be iconic brand in Parmigiani Fleurier.

I have one or two inside friends in Watch Town myself, and they have come back with an alternate theory. That being that perhaps someone within the Sandoz Foundation was giving a bit of a pinch on the market's bottom to see how it reacts. While in watch making terms the Sandoz Foundation is not exactly Rolex, in "We have a shit-ton of money in the bank" terms, there is really no need for them to even consider selling at this time.

Now, again, this is (all of it) conjecture at this point, and it would certainly be big news if the Sandoz Foundation does decide to divest itself of its watchmaking assets. But it's not enough just to want to sell, you actually need to have some buyers who are willing to part with a not insubstantial amount of money ; )

So grab some popcorn and a comfy seat, and let's see how this plays out. 

The 417 Moby Dick

From Hanhart -

Courtesy of Hanhart

A bi-compax chronograph priced at EUR 1,940.00 incl. 19% VAT.

Courtesy of Hanhart

Featuring a hand-wound movement (Sellita SW 510 M), the chronograph is a modern reinterpretation of a model from the 1950s.

Courtesy of Hanhart

The case is of stainless steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. 

Courtesy of Hanhart

The functions include hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph. 

Here are the pertinents -

CASE:
Stainless steel, satined/polished
Diameter 42 mm
Height with glass 13.3 mm, height without glass 11.55 mm

Bezel -
Fluted rotating bezel, continuously rotatable

Glass -
Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
High-domed sapphire glass

Case back -
Screwed-down stainless steel case back
Continuous serial number
Engraving of the historical logo on the case back

Water resistant / Shock proof -
Water resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM according to DIN 8310
Shockproof

DIAL:
Historical logo and bicompax layout

Numbers -
Historical Font
Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium GL coated numeral

Hands -
Thermally blued hands

MOVEMENT:

Caliber -
Manual wound chronograph
Sellita SW 510 M
Symmetrical button arrangement
28.800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 jewels

Power reserve -
Minimum 48 hours after full winding

Functions -
Small second
30-minute counter
Bicompax Chronograph with central stop-second

STRAP:

Cowhide leather
Lug width 21 mm

Colors -
Light brown with white stitching
Alternatively black or dark brown or steel bracelet

Buckle -
Pin-buckle with historical logo

Spending Time With The BR 03-93 GMT BLACK

From Bell & Ross -

The folks at Bell & Ross North America were kind enough to let me borrow a BR 03-93 GMT Black for the past two weeks. And this was the perfect watch to get me in the mood for my upcoming trip to Besançon ; )

Now confession time, I have never worn (for more than a quick BaselWorld photo) one of Bell & Ross's Instrument series watches. And more importantly, up until recently I was more a devotee to the Vintage collection. But lately I have become more and more taken not only with the practical side of the watch - visibility, etc., I have come to not only admire (but again, in all honesty) become rather obsessive about the BR 03-93 format in both the diver, and per this review the GMT.

When I first launched "the blog formerly known as Tempus Fugit" my goal was to share feedback that was pertinent to actual watch buyers who actually might buy an actual watch, and actually? I don't know, maybe, actually wear it. In my world that comes down to a few things -

• Is the watch actually comfortable to wear?
• Is the watch reliable?
• Is the watch well made?
• Is it likely that someone who makes a reasonable income could save a bit and afford it?

So let's begin at the beginning, shall we?

The BR 03-93 GMT is based on what has become symbolic of Bell & Ross's design grammar, while also evolving beyond it's original iteration as a time only watch. It is not insubstantial, but in fact that is appealing to me.

The case is like an instrument panel, and that is by design. 

The case measures 42 mm in diameter, which is more than big enough, but yet not too big. The visibility is enhanced by the square shape. Don't ask me why, but I suspect it's not unlike utilizing a mat around a painting, or print - it draws in the viewer to a focal point.

The dial's face uses Bell & Ross's favored layout of alternating indices and numbers. In this instance the quarter hours are writ large with 12, 3, 6, and 9. The indices are coated in Superluminova, as are portions of the hands, and the tip of the GMT hand.

The finish of the case, the crown, the strap, and the buckle are all incredibly well finished.

Although the case back has engraving and four screws securing it, you would never know while wearing it. Very often, even in a watch costing far more, this is a tell-tale indicator of where the technical finishing and attention to tolerances is proven to be inconsistent with the vision of the design team. Not so with the BR 03-93. It is extremely comfortable on the wrist.

The crown is very smooth, yet very tactile. It is well balanced, setting and winding are quite pleasant - none of that "scratch, scratch" noise, nor cracked fingernails. And I was very impressed with the alignment of the GMT hand. This sounds silly, perhaps. I mean, it's a GMT watch, right? Well, it might surprise you to know that A LOT of GMT watches ship out to stores, later to be sold to customers, with somewhat misaligned GMT hands. Needless to say, Bell & Ross's quality control remains first rate.

On this review model, the BR 03-93 GMT shipped with a black leather strap. The strap is very well finished, not sloppy slipped stitches, and the leather is comfortable and smooth. The BR 03-93 GMT when purchased ships not only with a leather strap, but also a black synthetic fabric strap -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The strap is secured by four hex screws -

And while both straps are quite nice, Bell & Ross offers the opportunity to add to your strap wardrobe. And as I am both a fan, and a wee-bit contrary, if I were buying this time travel machine, I would add two more options to my sartorial kit -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The point being, is that you have options - actually a WHOLE BUNCH of them!

The buckle is definitely from the Goldilocks school of design, just right!

It is not insubstantial, but the finishing is smooth, the tang piece lays flat, and it refuses to get caught in the sleeve of your sweater ; )

Now the physical comfort is undeniable. It is more than comfortable all-day. But let's talk about reality. Travel is only so glamorous (unless of course you fly on a private jet, in which case you can afford to have someone else tell you the time). My travel tends to break down as Boston to California, Boston to Zurich, and more than once, Boston to Tokyo. Now again, back to reality - when you are traveling long distances you are not (despite the images you see in the brochures) at your best - either physically or psychologically. Your sleep patterns are, to use the Latin - jacked up. Your vision is not solid-state, and therefore it is hard to read the dial of your watch, even with a GMT feature. You need contrast -

Very often, we think of day and night separation of blue and black. And if that is your take on things Bell & Ross has you covered with a more subtle version. Me? I need contrast.

Let me invite you to the 22:55 Logan - Zurich flight with your old pal Henki. Chances are good that I have already put a full day in at my job, raced home, caught the shuttle bus to Logan, checked in, cleared security and paced back and forth waiting to board. This is even if I have plumped the extra $ for a business class seat on Swiss Air. Why? Doesn't Logan have a Swiss or Lufthansa lounge? Well now it's time for travel tips from your old pal Henki - Yes there is a lounge, but it is, to put it politely, underwhelming. So after putting in about 3 miles of airport walking while carrying my coat and my carry-on, I am not exactly "springtime" fresh by the time I am plopped in my seat. Moreover, I am tired, a bit groggy, and my visual acuity is not what it might have been earlier in the day. Now fast-forward as we are maybe about four hours into the flight and I am trying to decide between a night cap and part of a movie, or simply turning in. There is a true sense of reassurance and comfort glancing (not squinting) at your wrist and knowing what time it is where you are heading, and more importantly what time it is where your loved ones are. Your mileage may vary, but this stuff is important to me.

Overall, I fell in love these past two weeks. And as someone who stepped back from writing about watches, or even being that interested as an enthusiast for nearly 2 years, this is saying something. I do, however, have one critique. The date indication is just too small, and I suspect even for a younger guy it is a bit challenging to read. The one alteration I might propose would be a magnifying "window" over the date. BUT - not the typical cyclops window that you might find on others, but rather a magnifier on the inside of the crystal. Otherwise the date window really serves no purposes but decoration (very small and hard to see decoration). But again, that is just my take on it.

The timekeeping has been what you would expect, spot on. The movement is the BR-CAL.303. This is based on the ETA 2893-2. So good news, this is a very serviceable watch that you can get taken care of promptly, and not resign yourself to owning a formerly operational time keeper now consigned to over-priced paper weight.

About price - the BR 03-93 GMT is reasonably priced for what you get. It is (at least for me) not an impulse buy - social work paying what it does and the cost of living in the Northeast being what it is. But with that being said, it is what I consider to be aspirational within reason. It is something that you could reasonably save for. Of course if you are cut from more well-to-do stock, you won't have to wait. The asking amount is $4,200 and can be ordered directly from Bell & Ross or from a retailer in their network.

After two weeks, I regrettably have to return my new best friend to its family at Bell & Ross HQ, but can say unequivocally that this is a fantastic watch. Wonderful as an everyday watch. But if like me, you long for that extra something that will make your travel not only more bearable, but actually pleasurable? If you are looking for that trace of glamour (albeit attainable) in your travel experience, in a day and age where glamour (or even pleasure) is disappearing faster than the chicken entree in the economy class cabin's food trolley? Well this might just be for you too - I know that it is for me.

Here are the pertinents -

• MOVEMENT

  BR-CAL.303. Automatic mechanical.

• FUNCTIONS

  Hours, minutes, central seconds, second 24-hour time zone and date. Quick setting of the GMT hand, independently of the hour hand.

• CASE

  42 mm in width. Satin-finished and polished steel. Bi-directional rotating bezel with 24-hour scale and black and red two-colour anodized aluminum ring.

• DIAL

  Black. Indices coated in Super-LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands and 24-hour hand.

• CRYSTAL

  Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

• WATER-RESISTANCE

  100 meters.

• STRAP

  Black coloured calfskin leather and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

• BUCKLE

  Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

The BR 03-92 DIVER BLACK & GREEN BRONZE - for the Crispy Diver or Desk Diver

From Bell & Ross -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

This is the latest diver from Bell & Ross, and it is minty and refreshing! Based on the now iconic BR 03 platform, this underwater time machine is unique in the world of divers in that it is not exactly round... 

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

It's Hip To Be Square!

"Back in the day" Bell & Ross made some more traditional looking divers in terms of being, well, round. But comparing the B&R divers of today to their forebears raises a few questions about form and function. And a lot of why I particularly like this watch can be summed up on the musings of Kevin Burrows and Lawrence Schlossman's magnum opus - Fuck Yeah Menswear.

Legibility - the quality of being readable.
There are a lot of dive watches out there that look great in daylight while you are braving the
dangers of your office (desk diver). But in the real world (not Instagram photos from Pitti Uomo), you actually might want to be able to reasonably read the time on your watch. This was, in many ways, the motivation behind the original design of the BR-03. I mean, yes, it does resemble a cockpit gauge. And if you are super into aviation that can be cool. But it also allows for a very clear field of view.

Presence - Let's be honest, there are a lot of round dive watches out there. Just like there are a lot of sheep out there. Just sayin'...

Steezy - meaning style with ease. This is sometimes confused and/or comingled with sprezzatura which is often more of an affectation as it is by design or intent. 

Nothing wrong with either, in the big scheme of things, but as we get back to the sheep metaphor, think Panerai = sprezzatura. Long story short? You're trying too hard, there was only one L'Avvocato (that's Gianni Agnelli for the Philistines out there), and it is unlikely that you, gentle reader, will be picking up his mantle of style anytime soon. The BR 03-92 Black & Green Bronze diver says you make your own choices. A green dial may not be your cup of 緑茶 (that's green tea, for you barbarians out there).

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

The BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze is, well, bronze. And with that comes some classic contradictions. One simple truth is that bronze will gain patina, and character. The case of a bronze watch will convey the years and share the history of both the watch and the wearer. Should you dive with it, that will happen more rapidly. But that is in many ways the joy of owning a watch, the stories that it tells. And rather than a carefully arranged narrative designed to look absent minded or half hazard (sprezzatura), this is (for me at least) the very essence of Skeezy.

Per Bell & Ross:

"...the CuSn8 bronze of the case (92% copper, 8% tin) evokes the fittings used on the most elegant of yachts, and evolves beautifully over time."

So if you are drawn to this watch as I am, here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

Limited to 999 pieces

• MOVEMENT

  calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical. 54-hour power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.

• FUNCTIONS

  hours, minutes, seconds and date.

• CASE

  42 mm wide. Satin-finished and polished CuSn8 bronze. Unidirectional rotating solid bronze bezel with 60-minute scale and black anodized aluminum ring and Bilight® dots. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Steel case-back

• DIAL

  Green. Black hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Glossy black skeletonized hour and minute hands filled with white Super LumiNova® (green glow).

• CRYSTAL

  sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

• WATER-RESISTANCE

  300 metres.

• STRAP

  black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

• BUCKLE

  Pin. Satin-finished and polished bronze.

A President's Day Special - The Vulcain Cricket, The Presidents of the US.

It is well known that Harry Truman was the first US President to receive a Vulcain Cricket. What is not well known is that he did not receive it from Vulcain. He received it from the White House News Photographer's Association. 

There is a great photo of the presentation which you will be able to see in the upcoming second version of the Cricket and the Presidents. But for now the watch itself -

Courtesy of the Harry S. Truman Presidential Library & Museum

Courtesy of the Harry S. Truman Presidential Library & Museum

It is also well known that Dwight Eisenhower was a Vulcain Cricket owner - although nobody is exactly sure how he came to own one. He was more known for wearing his Rolex, but that's politics for you.

Courtesy of Vulcain / Paajanen Family

Perhaps the greatest fan of the Vulcain Cricket while in the Oval Office was Lyndon Johnson. He had more than one, and also purchased a BUNCH of them to gift to staff and dignitaries, and if President Johnson's White House calendar / diary records are to be believed, one recipient was Secretary of Defense, Robert McNamara.

And finally there was Richard Nixon who received his Vulcain as a thank you for a public speaking engagement while Vice President.

And he wore his Vulcain Cricket A LOT!

Courtesy of the Nixon Presidential Library

Again - none of these watches were presented by the brand, it all happened wonderfully organically.

It wasn't until a family jeweler based in Helsinki Finland met with the son of the inventor of the Vulcain Cricket that a true tradition of Vulcain presenting a Cricket to the President (either former or current) President of the United States. And that was kicked off with a gift of a Vulcain Cricket to then US President Ronald Reagan.

There is a lot more to this story, and when my updated book about the US Presidents and the Vulcain Cricket comes out, you can read all about it ; )

The 29er Mint

From Mühle-Glashütte -

Courtesy of Mühle-Glashütte

This is one of the new releases shown at Inhorgenta this past week. It is a fun, wonderfully affordable piece. Hours, minutes, seconds, and date at 3 o'clock.

Courtesy of Mühle-Glashütte

Priced at 1.450€

Here are the pertinents -

REFERENCE
M1-25-29-LB-II.

DIMENSIONS
Ø 36,6 mm.
Hight 10,4 mm.

CASE
Stainless steel.
Non-reflective
sapphire glass.
Back with window.
Screw-down crown.

WATER RESISTANCE
Waterproof up to 10 bar.

MOVEMENT
Automatic.
SW 200-1, Version Mühle.
woodpecker regulation.
Second stopp.
Quick date correction.

POWER RESERVE
Up to 41 hours.

FUNCTIONS
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date

DIAL
Mint.
Applied indices.
Hour markers and hands covered with Super-LumiNova.

STRAP
18 mm.
Vintage leather strap with quick-release bars and pin buckle

The Pangea Day Date 365

From MeisterSinger -

Courtesy of MesiterSinger

I am not sure if this will be available in the US, but it is an intriguing piece so I thought it might be of interest. It's not every day you come across a single handed watch that also provides the day and date ; )

Courtesy of MeisterSinger

Here are the pertinents -

Reference number	PDD365901
Diameter	40 mm
Height	10,5 mm
Lug width	20 mm
Case material	Stainless steel
Front glass	Sapphire crystal
Caseback	Exhibition back (mineral glass)
Water resistance	5 Bar

Regarding the movement, it is Sellita's SW220, which is specially modified to accommodate the requirements of a single handed watch. It boasts 38 hours of power reserve.

 

The price is projected to be approximately $2,899 if the main MeisterSinger site is anything to go by. 

Revisiting One That Got Away...

From Pequignet -

Courtesy of Pequignet

I wanted to re-heat this one. I personally like it when a watch maker takes what is expected, and puts a fun twist on it. This one came around nearly 4 years ago now, but it still fascinates me to this day.

Now I realize, this is maybe not everyone's demitasse if espresso, but as I look at it - life is short. There are plenty black and white watches out there, but life is not always black and white, is it?

This is the Rue Royale Reference 9010433 FJ.

Pequignet is at once a known quantity and yet and still a mystery to a lot of watch folks out there. For many of us we think Pequignet de facto means moon phases, power reserve indicators and big dates.  Very formal, very uniform. And that's okay. Pequignet has established a fairly defined design language insofar as the layout of the watch dial and functions.  

But for those of us with a wild color itch to scratch, this little wrist bijoux is the horological equivalent of a colloidal oatmeal bath, followed by a generous application of Benadryl ointment and loose fitting t-shirt.  IT IS AMAZING!  And yes, it soothes that manic itch that some of us have for a wonderfully complicated watch with a bit of color, fun and quirkiness.  

Yes gentle reader, I REALLY WANTED THIS WATCH!

Although it is now firmly in the rearview mirror, it does show that Pequignet may still have a few surprises up their sleeves ; )

Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT
Calibre Royal movement
88-hours power reserve
Small second
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case-back
Date
Large red accurate moonphase at 6.00

CASE
316L Stainless steel case

DIAL
White dial, Luminova hands
White small second counter and power reserve counter

BRACELET
White alligator strap with blue stitching
Folding buckle with clasp

Limited edition

The Empire Seasons True GMT

From Vario -

Courtesy of Vario

Although this version is named Spring Green (which is appropriate) but I have come to think of it as Pistachio -because it makes me think of my favorite ice cream ; )

As we approach spring, it's time to start thinking about getting away from it all, possibly a time zone or two away. Well, this Vario model has got you covered.

Assembled in Japan, this GMT is powered by Miyota's 9075 True GMT High-Beat Automatic movement.

The case is of stainless steel and measures 38 mm in diameter, and 46 mm lug to lug. Best of all is the price - very affordable at $698, direct from Vario. So you might be able to splurge for a business class upgrade ; )

Courtesy of Vario

Here are the pertinents, straight from Vario -

Diameter: 38mm
Lug to Lug: 46mm
Thickness: 12mm
Strap Width: 20mm
Movement: Miyota 9075 True GMT High-Beat Automatic
Crystal: Sapphire with inner AR coating
Water Resistance: 5 ATM
Strap: Vintage style Italian leather with slight bi-colour effect (20mm taper to 16mm) & metal bracelet

*Case and bracelet are coated for scratch resistance

2 Year International Warranty

Made in Japan, Inspected in Singapore, quality and satisfaction guaranteed

The Horizon GEN DLC

From Minase -

Courtesy of Minase

This is the latest offering from one of my all-time favorite watch brands. Right about now in Akita-ken, I suspect the locals are shoveling the snow off of their roofs, and enjoying massive amounts of chanko nabe -

Shamelessly borrowed from the worldwide info-web

But all that shoveling and eating hasn't stopped the folks at Minase from putting together something extra special!

Courtesy of Minase

The case is of stainless steel with a black DLC finish. It measures 38 x 51 mm, and is 12 mm thick. It weighs in at 160 grams.

Under the hood is the ETA 2892A2, with a customized rotor. The functions are hours, minutes, seconds, and date.

This is a limited series of 25 pieces and is available to order now through Minase International. It is priced very fairly at CHF 4'700.

Here are all the pertinents, straight from the source -

Case:

Stainless steel 316L plated with black DLC. 

Dimensions - 38 x 51 mm. Thickness : 12,0 mm. 160 g.

Dual spherical box type sapphire crystal (non reflective coating), see-through case back. 

Water resistant up to 50 meters (5 Bar).

Movement:

Swiss ETA based components (2892A2) high end execution with hand-finished surfaces with perlage, bridges and main plate in black “or”. Blue screws. Bridges with diamond polished bevels. Customized Minase rotor. ETACHRON regulator system. MPS lubrication-free bearings. Very high precision TOP range execution. 50 hours’ power reserve. 21 Jewels. Frequency 28’800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)

Dial:

Steel with PVD cover in Black, Blue or Grey, polished steel indexes

Functions:

Hours, minutes and central second hands. Date at 3.

Hands:

Polished, luminous material on hours’ and minutes’ hands.

Strap and Buckle:

Rubber (EPDM) strap with stainless steel deployment clasp and side pushers.